Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 70 of total 70 in this topic |
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 15, 2013 - 03:41pm PT
|
Wojciech Kurtyka
"His climbs in Poland consist of many difficult climbs – in crags, the hardest free climbs and free solo climbs of the time. In the Tatra Mountains he did a lot of first free ascents, first ascents in winter and established new winter routes.
Kurtyka became well known abroad in early 1973 after achieving the first winter ascent of Trollveggen (Troll Wall) in Norway, the highest vertical cliff on the continent (4 men Polish team).
He started in Greater Ranges in 1972, completing a little known – but important according to him – first ascent of the wall of Akher Chogh in Hindu Kush, in lightweight, alpine style. He started climbing in the Himalayas in 1974. After participating in two big Polish national expeditions in 1974 and 1976, he gradually turned to lightweight expeditions.
His teammates were such world-class Himalayan climbers as, among others, Alex MacIntyre (1977, 1978, 1980, 1981), Jerzy Kukuczka (1981, 1983, 1984), Doug Scott (1993, Nanga Parbat attempt), Erhard Loretan (1988, 1990, 1991, 1997), Reinhold Messner (1982, Cho Oyu winter attempt), Yasushi Yamanoi (2000, 2001, K2 and Latok attempts).
The ideas of minimal equipment and support even on the most difficult walls and highest peaks was included in his philosophical concept of the "path of the mountain".
Kurtyka's and Robert Schauer's (Austrian) climb of the West face of Gasherbrum IV in 1985 was selected by Climbing magazine as one of the 10 most impressive climbs of the 20th century (including rock climbing, bouldering etc.).
Besides being a climber, Kurtyka is author of many articles on climbing published in Polish and English. He is also an inventor (around 1980) of the local Polish grading system of free climbs. This system uses an opened scale, called "Kurtyka scale" or "Krakowska scale"."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wojciech_Kurtyka
Version texted in English:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Be free to post material concerning Polish climbing and climbers - the bravest among the brave.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Jan 15, 2013 - 04:54pm PT
|
Marlow, you're gonna cause Philo to hyperventilate.
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
|
Bernadette McDonald. Freedom climbers.
Ed Viesturs about Polish climbers when "Freedom climbers" was published: “For many years, we in the climbing community have stood in awe of the accomplishments of Polish climbers. Relatively late into the Himalyan game due to political and monetary restrictions enforced onto them within their own country, the Poles sought the mountains as their escape. It was in fact the hardships they endured within Poland that hardened them physically and emotionally to seek out and endure the toughest climbs in the world. Freedom Climbers is a very enlightening and captivating look at the Polish climbing superstars, what drives them, their amazing accomplishments and their continuing role in pushing the limits in the mountain arena.”
An interview:
http://newswatch.nationalgeographic.com/2011/12/15/freedom-climbers-polands-legendary-mountain-explorers/
On Supertopo about Freedom climbers: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1658855&msg=1659501#msg1659501
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
|
Reilly
Because of Wanda?
Or is it Poland?
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
|
|
Jan 15, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
|
My language filter isn't working.
I can't understand those videos, they're speaking Canada!
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Jan 15, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
|
Both
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 05:12pm PT
|
Survival
It doesn't matter. Even if they speak incomprehensible Canadian there is a lot of excellent pictures, film and music. You can even hear Barbara Streisand sing "woman in love" in American.
The ambiance, the ambiance...
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
|
Jan 15, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
|
Our own Regan is keeping the Polish hardman/suffering tradition alive and well.
I love the stories of how Poles bitd left town with 2 lbs of cheese, 4 lbs. of chocolate, a pack of chewing gum, and about $0.35 in hard currency and somehow manage to trade and travel their way to Nepal or Pakistan, knock off three 8,000 meter peaks in a season, and fly home first class. Fine folks, indeed.
g
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Jan 15, 2013 - 09:45pm PT
|
Those dudes were REAL hardmen. Freedom Climbers is a great read.
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
|
Aleksandra Taistra
"Which woman has climbed more 5.14b routes than anyone except Josune Bereziartu (who’s in a class of her own)? It’s not Liv Sansoz or Beth Rodden or Martina Cufar. The answer is Aleksandra “Ola” Taistra of Poland, who just redpointed her third 8c (5.14b): Die Hard, a bouldery monodoigt testpiece at Grotte Gabbio, near Fenrentillo, Italy. In 2004 and 2005, Taistra completed two 5.14b routes in Poland: Power Play and Nie dla Psa Kielbasa.
Taistra, 25, is not the only Polish strongwoman. Last year, Kinga Ociepka, climbed the 5.14b Geminis at Rodellar, Spain, at age 20."
Cosi Fan Tutte 8c+: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67495
Climbing an 8c
[Click to View YouTube Video]
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
|
Moose
Great stories! Are there any photos of the viaduct climbing?
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
|
Krzysztof Wielicki. Crown of Himalaya.
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
|
Moose: Cool, thanks for posting.
|
|
Send
Trad climber
Central Sierra
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
|
Jura Kraków-Częstochowa
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2013 - 11:52am PT
|
Send.
Thanks for posting excellent photos of Polish cliff climbing.
Knowing a bit of Polish history it can be hard to imagine the beauty of the country.
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2013 - 12:00pm PT
|
I LOVE this thread! If it had a few more boobs it would be my favorite.
I want to go back to Poland.
|
|
Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
There's a good graphic short story in either Alpinist 38 or 39 that tells of the Lho La tragedy. Short, but well worth checking out.
|
|
steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
|
|
Marlow,
I had the honor of climbing with Voytek Kurtyka, when we were all about the same age of 29.
My partner John Bouchard and I met up with Voytek and his Polish partner, on the last few pitches of the Walker Spur, in a raging thunderstorm.
Voytek and Bouchard both were hit by lightning. I'm sure they won't forget it, nor I.
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2013 - 03:41pm PT
|
steveA
Are you willing to tell the story? Or have you or someone else written about the incident?
Edited: Thanks for telling the story!
|
|
Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
|
|
Is it the horse meat that makes the Poles tough as nails?
|
|
steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
|
|
I remember years back, there was an article in Rock and Ice, I believe on climbing epics or something like that, and Bouchard contributed a story about getting hit by lightning on the Walker Spur.
I think we both consider it one of our closest calls. I only had him in a body belay with NO tie-in. We were in one hell of a hurry, since it was like a blizzard, and as I remember it, there weren't any obvious spots to put in protection for an anchor.
Voytek took off leading the last pitch, and Bouchard followed up right behind him. Just after Voytek reached the top, there was one horrendous lightning strike, and Bouchard was hit pretty bad; falling off.
Somehow, Bouchard grabbed Voytek's rope, with his good arm, saving himself.
When I arrived on the summit, a few minutes later, Voytek said, "I'm O.K.
only hit in the head, but your friend is hurt real bad"
Bouchard thought his arm was broken, but within 10 minutes, the shock started to wear off. When we all got back to Chamonix, John found that he had burn holes in his mittens and his socks!
In hindsight, if Voytek hadn't led off, ahead of Bouchard, I wouldn't be here to write this, since Bouchard would of pulled me off with him.
|
|
Regan
Big Wall climber
|
|
SteveA, Thanks for sharing the story. You are truly hardcore guys. Very inspirational...
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
|
About the Polish climbers of Freedom Climbers: Three questions with Bernadette McDonald.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
|
|
AP
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
Voytek once commented on the success of Polish climbers in the Himalayas.
He said something like "Himalayan climbing is the art of suffering and Poles know how to suffer because we have always been between the hammer and the anvil" He was referring of course to Germany and Russia
I had the pleasure of directing him and Fred Beckey to the party location at the end of a Calgary climbing Festival back in 88(?). Fred was saying things like "Well Voytek do you want to grab a beer?"
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
Voytek said, "I'm O.K.
only hit in the head
I remember taking this for outstanding deadpan humor in the article. Perhaps the reality was different.
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
|
I heard that Wielicki is/was just on Nanga Parbat.
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
|
Thanks Send. This is the news:
"Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Malek completed the feat at about 6 pm local time, scaling the famed peak in the Karakoram range, which lies on the border between Pakistan and China.
The news was relayed by noted climber Artur Hajzer, coordinator of the programme Polish Winter Mountaineering in the Himalayas 2010-2015.
“The summit has been conquered!” Hajzer hammered out on his Facebook page.
“It will be possible to speak of the entire success of the expedition when the team returns to base,” he added, noting that the climbers have to make a rapid descent as night is falling.
Nine mountaineers took part in this year's expedition, which was led by legendary climber Krzysztof Wielicki, 62, who came out of retirement for the venture.
Wielicki was the first climber in the world to make a winter ascent of Mount Everest, and the fifth to conquer all fourteen of the world's “eight-thousanders” (peaks over 8000m).
Broad Peak rises to 8047m, but has only now been conquered during the winter season.
Various members of the team attempted to scale the peak over the last few weeks, but winds, among other problems had prevented success until now."
Congrats!!!!.....
|
|
Anejo
Ice climber
Yukon
|
|
25 years ago, almost to the day, Maciek Berbeka has reached Rocky Summit. So as of today he made it to the top - Broad Peak. It is his third winter ascent of the peak over 8000 m (Manaslu and Cho Oyu in eighties). This guy is 59 years old. What a FEAT! Congratulations to Maciek and the whole Polish Team!!!
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
|
"Considering all the circumstances, conditions, my experience, history of Himalayan mountaineering, knowledge regarding physiology and high-altitude medicine as well as consultations with doctors and co-organizers of the expedition in Poland, I have to declare Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski dead.
Taking into account the time that has passed since the last contact, altitude where it took place, their condition, current weather conditions and all other factors, I have to claim openly that both climbers are dead.
The expedition has come to an end. We are packing the base camp and start to descend. March via the Baltoro Glacier will take approximately 5 days. We will come back to Poland on approximately 20th March. Due to lack of electricity, we will not have any possibilities to maintain contact via telephones or e-mails and thus, the will not be any information about us till approximately 15th March."
Krzysztof Wielicki
Leader of the winter expedition of Polish Mountaineering Association to Broad Peak
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
|
|
RIP.
|
|
10b4me
Boulder climber
Lost
|
|
my condolences to the friends, and families.
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
|
Voytek Kurtyka presented in Vertical Sept-Oct 2012
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
|
Polskie Himalaje - Annapurna 1987 - Winter - texted in English.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
|
Polskie Himalaje - In Memoriam - Wanda Rutkiewicz (1943-1992) - texted in English.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Wanda challenged the Polish hardmen the same way as Lynn Hill challenged Americans when she freed The Nose.
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2014 - 04:14am PT
|
What happens if you bring some of the worlds best alpinists into the same room for a group interview?
That's what the French climbing Magazine Vertical did in October 1985. Those present were Wanda Rutkiewiscz, Eric Escoffier, Voytek Kurtyka, Erhard Loretan, Pierre Beghin, Doug Scott and Reinhold Messner. Here's the article translated and published in Mountain 109, 1986
Posted here on the Polish climbing thread because two Poles are involved - Wanda and Voytek.
There's an interesting take on the funding of climbers - receiving money from the State or not.
The Italian is not willing to take money from the State - the possible fascist State. But I think most Italians would be willing to receive money from one of Berlusconi's firms even with the possibility of Mafia and corruption involved. Italians don't trust the State. They have been governed by a bunch of infighting principalities, by Spain, by Austria and by France. They have to rely on themselves and the fox Berlusconi at least was seen as one of the people. After all, the idea of self-made man is really Italian, not American. Being in the pockets of corporations is good. Being in the pockets of the State is bad. Americans and Italians are similar in their views.
The Poles are willing to receive money from the State. Money from the State is money from the people collected through taxes to be used at purposes that serve what's common good. In Norway people would think in the same way. Being in the pockets of the State is not bad and not much will be asked for. Norwegians will take money from corporations too...
And the French? Pragmatics: They'll receive money from the State or from corporations because they need them, but if you ask them what they think, they'll say: "...but I don't like the money..."
Lol...
|
|
bigbird
climber
WA
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2014 - 06:03am PT
|
The irony of the article above is that the majority of the people interviewed in it are now dead...
Wanda Rutkiewiscz- 1992 - Kangchenjunga
Eric Escoffier- 1998- Broad Peak
Erhard Loretan- died in the alps in 2011...
His credibility was greatly tarnished though, after he was convicted of manslaughter for the death of his seven-month-old son...
Pierre Beghin- Annapurna 1992
The mountains sure have an appalling death toll... Especially when you are pushing the limits....
|
|
steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2014 - 08:20am PT
|
Bigbird,
Yes, and had that lightning strike on the Walker Spur in 1975,been a little more direct, Voytech wouldn't have gone on to the greater ranges, and I wouldn't be typing this.
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2014 - 05:55pm PT
|
The Gasherbrums are lonely - Voytek Kurtyka in Mountain 97, 1984
The remarkable traverse in June/July 1983 by Voytek Kurtyka and Jurek Kukuczka of Gasherbrum 2 and the ascent of the South-West face of Hidden Peak - followed by friendly ravens...
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2014 - 08:21pm PT
|
Why them Polaks so crazy? Why couldn't they just stay home and get rich?
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
|
^^^^ Which parts of Poland have you visited?
|
|
Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2014 - 09:45pm PT
|
Andrej and others,
Thanks for the insight about some accomplished, well rounded climbers.
|
|
bigbird
climber
WA
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2014 - 10:05pm PT
|
Bruce-
My bad if I came across as disingenuous, At the time I was not into climbing. I remembered the headlines and not much more regarding the matter. But "new sh#t has come to light", and my opinion has changed.
Another video featuring Wojciech Kurtyka....
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Lots of interesting stuff on that utube channel...
|
|
Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2014 - 10:51pm PT
|
Kurtyka was but one...
Pavel Shabiln? (sp?)
|
|
kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
|
|
|
Feb 21, 2014 - 03:46pm PT
|
the hardest of the hard. lacking anything of value to add, I will just say, RESPECT!
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2014 - 08:03am PT
|
Jelenia Gora in Poland
Jelenia Góra ([jɛˈlɛɲa ˈɡura]; German: Hirschberg im Riesengebirge) is a city in Lower Silesia, south-western Poland. The name of the city means "deer mountain" in Polish, and German. It is close to the Krkonoše mountain range running along the Polish-Czech border – ski resorts such as Karpacz and Szklarska Poręba can be found 10 to 15 kilometres (6 to 9 miles) far from the town.
Jelenia Góra is situated in Lower Silesian Voivodeship (since 1999), having previously been the seat of Jelenia Góra Voivodeship (1975–1998). The city constitutes a separate urban gmina and city county (powiat), as well as being the seat of Jelenia Góra County (which surrounds but does not include the city). As at 2009 the population of Jelenia Góra is 84,564 .
A climbing guide to some of the crags in the area (bolted and trad routes)
Mainly bouldering in the area: https://27crags.com/areas/902
And then some photos by photographer Sebastian Luczywo who is living in Jelenia Gora
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Apr 11, 2015 - 10:46am PT
|
Narly picture....although most polish climbers would think it was shot at a beach party.
|
|
steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
|
|
|
Apr 11, 2015 - 11:06am PT
|
Jim,
That last photo probably brings back fond memories of suffering.
I'll be visiting John Porter, in the UK, in a few weeks. After a few beers,
we will probably be discussing the Poles, as Porter has been on a few expeditions with Kurtyka.
Porter's book, "One Day as a Tiger", features many comments on the Polish climbing scene in the 70's.
|
|
MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
|
|
|
Apr 11, 2015 - 06:29pm PT
|
Porter's book, "One Day as a Tiger", features many comments on the Polish climbing scene in the 70's.
Note taken.
Thanks.
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2016 - 07:53am PT
|
Wojciech Kurtyka - Piolet d'Or Carričre 2016 - at La Grave, Meije
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Kurtyka about the price paid by accepting the Piolet d'Or.
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2018 - 01:49pm PT
|
Art of Freedom (2011) - The Polish Himalayan Phenomenon
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Art of Freedom tells the stories of the most difficult Polish expeditions and the most spectacular ascents. It depicts the essence of Himalaism: overcoming the weaknesses of the human body in the most extreme conditions. It is also a story of endurance, solidarity, trust and concern for the overall well-being of the team. After all, Himalaism is the school of life, a test of survival and the experience of true freedom.
The documentary film Art of Freedom answers the most poignant questions on the phenomenon of Polish expeditions to the Himalayas. Poles have reigned the highest mountaintops of the world for more than 20 years. They not only set down new trails, but new rules of behavior. They set themselves apart with an original style of climbing, endurance, conscientiousness about the overall well-being of the team - and solidarity.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 70 of total 70 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!