Polish climbing thread

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steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Jan 25, 2014 - 05:20am PT
Bigbird,

Yes, and had that lightning strike on the Walker Spur in 1975,been a little more direct, Voytech wouldn't have gone on to the greater ranges, and I wouldn't be typing this.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 25, 2014 - 05:57am PT
Regarding Erhard Loretan, I never met the fellow and certainly can't judge, but I think there may be something more to his "disgrace" at his sons homicide conviction. Whatever those circumstances were, his conduct afterwards presents an element of humility and accountability seldom seen these days.

from his wiki:

Loretan was convicted in 2003 of the manslaughter of his seven-month-old son, after shaking him for a short period of time to stop him crying in late 2001.[1] He was given a four-month suspended sentence.[2] At that time Shaken baby syndrome (SBS) was largely unknown, but he decided to disclose his name to the press in the hope that other parents might avoid a similar drama. Publicity of the case raised awareness of the danger of shaking children due to weak neck muscles.

and from the account of his death:

Minder described how the two had approached the Grünhorn in the Bernese Oberland on skis, before climbing a ridge towards the mountain's summit. Loretan had turned 52 that day, and the couple were spending his birthday together in the mountains they both loved. She described how her left foot slipped and she lost balance, falling backwards. Her last thought as she registered the ground rushing past her was "a prayer to not suffer too much before dying".

Part of her motivation for revealing what happened on their last day together is what she regards as the unjust treatment Loretan received at the hands of the media after the death of his baby son in 2001.

He was convicted of manslaughter after briefly shaking seven-month-old Ewan, unable to cope with an inconsolable baby. Loretan gave up his right to anonymity to publicise the risks of shaken baby syndrome.

The case was a sensation in Switzerland. Loretan, the third man to climb all 14 mountains over 8,000 metres, was admired around the world, not just for his mountaineering exploits but for his modesty and integrity. After Ewan's death he became withdrawn, but his relationship with Minder restored his enthusiasm for life.

The loss of his own son was a tragedy from which he never recovered," Minder said, before speculating that the media would have turned on Loretan had he survived their accident rather than her. "Would public opinion have accused him of negligently killing his far less experienced partner in the mountains he knew so well? Put simply, why do people treat so differently circumstances that are so similar?"

In recent years, Loretan has become concerned at the rise in lawsuits against mountain guides. Clients, he believed, had come to expect absolute safety in an environment where it was not possible. They wanted to feel like risk-takers, he said, but not actually take responsibility for their own actions.

"As a judge, I cannot complain when the law is applied," she said. "But having lost the man I love in such terrible circumstances, my conscience has been roused. The boundary between guilt and innocence can be separated by nothing more than a hair's breadth.


Not exactly a Rob Ford or cesare Maesstri. .... or a bunch of damn climate change deniers.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2014 - 02:55pm PT

The Gasherbrums are lonely - Voytek Kurtyka in Mountain 97, 1984

The remarkable traverse in June/July 1983 by Voytek Kurtyka and Jurek Kukuczka of Gasherbrum 2 and the ascent of the South-West face of Hidden Peak - followed by friendly ravens...

Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 19, 2014 - 05:21pm PT
Why them Polaks so crazy? Why couldn't they just stay home and get rich?
MH2

climber
Feb 19, 2014 - 06:11pm PT
^^^^ Which parts of Poland have you visited?
moosedrool

climber
Stair climber, lost, far away from Poland
Feb 19, 2014 - 06:20pm PT

Why them Polaks so crazy? Why couldn't they just stay home and get rich?

Many of us came to Ameryka to get rich. Still crazy, though.

;)

Andrzej
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Feb 19, 2014 - 06:45pm PT
Andrej and others,

Thanks for the insight about some accomplished, well rounded climbers.
bigbird

climber
WA
Feb 19, 2014 - 07:05pm PT
Bruce-

My bad if I came across as disingenuous, At the time I was not into climbing. I remembered the headlines and not much more regarding the matter. But "new sh#t has come to light", and my opinion has changed.

Another video featuring Wojciech Kurtyka....


Lots of interesting stuff on that utube channel...


Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Feb 19, 2014 - 07:22pm PT
no worries. I just raised it as he is widely known for the sensational, not so much for how he followed up. Incidentally, its not like I'm intimately familiar with him or anything. for all I know he might be a monster but judging by the available literature, it sounds quite the opposite. The whole thing sounds remarkably human in both his error and the fantastic potential for redemption. Sounds like he was a real loss.
Incidentally, epanding a bit on out discussion on the other thread, Loretan and his polish friends were I think to date the most inspirational alpinists since Messner and his pals. I'm not sure even guys like Uli steck would be so bold as to say they've blown past them, and thats saying something.
If I recall, EL was a cabinet maker and a mountain guide, not at all a paid athlete, which really puts his accomplishments in context.

The poles were something else all together in terms of "getting rich". The stories of their first travels to the hindu Kush and the "funding" it involved puts anything modern to shame. Voytek Kurtyka in particular has one of the most amazing histories of accomplishment, no less that he's still here
Evel

Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
Feb 19, 2014 - 07:51pm PT
Kurtyka was but one...

Pavel Shabiln? (sp?)
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2014 - 11:32am PT

Interview with Krzysztof Wielicki
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Feb 21, 2014 - 12:46pm PT
the hardest of the hard. lacking anything of value to add, I will just say, RESPECT!
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