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Messages 41 - 60 of total 73 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
MH2

climber
Feb 6, 2013 - 07:53pm PT
Voytek said, "I'm O.K.
only hit in the head


I remember taking this for outstanding deadpan humor in the article. Perhaps the reality was different.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Feb 6, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
Marlow, the videos haven't been taken down. Looks like they just blocked embedding on other sites. Maybe you can just edit and post the URLs. For example, like this for your first video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=yyMmzv8fJH4

It'll save having to view source to figure out what you posted.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
Gasherbrum I First Winter Ascent
MH2

climber
Feb 26, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
I heard that Wielicki is/was just on Nanga Parbat.
Send

Trad climber
Central Sierra
Mar 5, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
http://www.thenews.pl/1/5/Artykul/129100

Polish-mountaineers-make-first-winter-ascent-of-Broad-Peak
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
Thanks Send. This is the news:

"Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Malek completed the feat at about 6 pm local time, scaling the famed peak in the Karakoram range, which lies on the border between Pakistan and China.
The news was relayed by noted climber Artur Hajzer, coordinator of the programme Polish Winter Mountaineering in the Himalayas 2010-2015.
“The summit has been conquered!” Hajzer hammered out on his Facebook page.
“It will be possible to speak of the entire success of the expedition when the team returns to base,” he added, noting that the climbers have to make a rapid descent as night is falling.
Nine mountaineers took part in this year's expedition, which was led by legendary climber Krzysztof Wielicki, 62, who came out of retirement for the venture.
Wielicki was the first climber in the world to make a winter ascent of Mount Everest, and the fifth to conquer all fourteen of the world's “eight-thousanders” (peaks over 8000m).
Broad Peak rises to 8047m, but has only now been conquered during the winter season.
Various members of the team attempted to scale the peak over the last few weeks, but winds, among other problems had prevented success until now."

Congrats!!!!.....
Anejo

Ice climber
Yukon
Mar 5, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
25 years ago, almost to the day, Maciek Berbeka has reached Rocky Summit. So as of today he made it to the top - Broad Peak. It is his third winter ascent of the peak over 8000 m (Manaslu and Cho Oyu in eighties). This guy is 59 years old. What a FEAT! Congratulations to Maciek and the whole Polish Team!!!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 6, 2013 - 11:33am PT
Bad news from Broad Peak -

[quote]Two Polish mountaineers are missing in the Himalayas after scaling Broad Peak


BY THE ASSOCIATED PRESS MARCH 6, 2013 8:02 AM



WARSAW, Poland - Two Polish mountaineers have disappeared in the Himalayas after scaling a peak of more than 26,000 feet (8,000 metres), officials said Wednesday.

The two were part of a group of four Poles that on Tuesday completed what other Polish climbers say is the first-ever winter ascent of Broad Peak, the world's 12th highest mountain, which is located in Pakistan.

Artur Hajzer, a Polish mountaineering official, said on the news station TVN24 that there had been no contact with Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski.

He said a Pakistani climber went up looking for the Poles in minus 35 degrees Celsius (minus 31 Fahrenheit) but found no sign of them.

Hajzer said time is running out as a snowstorm is expected.

The two other men, Adam Bielecki and Artur Malek, safely reached a camp below the peak, Hajzer said.



Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/entertainment/Polish+mountaineers+missing+Himalayas+after+scaling+peak/8057271/story.html#ixzz2MmIBAHj9[/quote]


So sorry to hear this.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
News at Planetmountain.com: http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40683
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
"Considering all the circumstances, conditions, my experience, history of Himalayan mountaineering, knowledge regarding physiology and high-altitude medicine as well as consultations with doctors and co-organizers of the expedition in Poland, I have to declare Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski dead.

Taking into account the time that has passed since the last contact, altitude where it took place, their condition, current weather conditions and all other factors, I have to claim openly that both climbers are dead.

The expedition has come to an end. We are packing the base camp and start to descend. March via the Baltoro Glacier will take approximately 5 days. We will come back to Poland on approximately 20th March. Due to lack of electricity, we will not have any possibilities to maintain contact via telephones or e-mails and thus, the will not be any information about us till approximately 15th March."

Krzysztof Wielicki
Leader of the winter expedition of Polish Mountaineering Association to Broad Peak
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Mar 8, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
RIP.
10b4me

Boulder climber
Lost
Mar 8, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
my condolences to the friends, and families.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
Voytek Kurtyka presented in Vertical Sept-Oct 2012
Credit: Marlow
Wojciech Kurtyka
Wojciech Kurtyka
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
Bernadette McDonald talking about the making of Freedom Climbers

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2013 - 05:26pm PT
Jerzy Kukuczka - Trailer
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
Edyta Ropek climbing

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
Polskie Himalaje - Annapurna 1987 - Winter - texted in English.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
Polskie Himalaje - In Memoriam - Wanda Rutkiewicz (1943-1992) - texted in English.

Wanda challenged the Polish hardmen the same way as Lynn Hill challenged Americans when she freed The Nose.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2014 - 04:14am PT
What happens if you bring some of the worlds best alpinists into the same room for a group interview?

That's what the French climbing Magazine Vertical did in October 1985. Those present were Wanda Rutkiewiscz, Eric Escoffier, Voytek Kurtyka, Erhard Loretan, Pierre Beghin, Doug Scott and Reinhold Messner. Here's the article translated and published in Mountain 109, 1986

Posted here on the Polish climbing thread because two Poles are involved - Wanda and Voytek.

Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow

There's an interesting take on the funding of climbers - receiving money from the State or not.

The Italian is not willing to take money from the State - the possible fascist State. But I think most Italians would be willing to receive money from one of Berlusconi's firms even with the possibility of Mafia and corruption involved. Italians don't trust the State. They have been governed by a bunch of infighting principalities, by Spain, by Austria and by France. They have to rely on themselves and the fox Berlusconi at least was seen as one of the people. After all, the idea of self-made man is really Italian, not American. Being in the pockets of corporations is good. Being in the pockets of the State is bad. Americans and Italians are similar in their views.

The Poles are willing to receive money from the State. Money from the State is money from the people collected through taxes to be used at purposes that serve what's common good. In Norway people would think in the same way. Being in the pockets of the State is not bad and not much will be asked for. Norwegians will take money from corporations too...

And the French? Pragmatics: They'll receive money from the State or from corporations because they need them, but if you ask them what they think, they'll say: "...but I don't like the money..."

Lol...
bigbird

climber
WA
Jan 25, 2014 - 06:03am PT
The irony of the article above is that the majority of the people interviewed in it are now dead...

Wanda Rutkiewiscz- 1992 - Kangchenjunga

Eric Escoffier- 1998- Broad Peak

Erhard Loretan- died in the alps in 2011...
His credibility was greatly tarnished though, after he was convicted of manslaughter for the death of his seven-month-old son...

Pierre Beghin- Annapurna 1992

The mountains sure have an appalling death toll... Especially when you are pushing the limits....
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