Trip Report
Superbalance (Polar Sun Spire, Baffin Island, April-May 2012)
Thursday June 7, 2012 8:21pm
You can say that Zodiac is a piece of cake, but I was so proud, when I alone topped out in October 2006. I felt a certain calm contentment after my first climb in Yo thinking that I couldn't climb anything better... and I was wrong.
In that October, drinking my last coffee in the Caff just before setting off on my journey home, Tom asked me – What next after the Zod, Regan? What next? Then during the next 6 years he asked me the same question continuously - season after season. Till the last autumn, all my answers were written on the El Cap, but when I finished my MescaMondatta last year, I answered Tom differently– "I am going on Baffin Island".
This is a trip report regarding that answer...
SUPERBALANCE
SUPERBALANCE
Credit: Regan
Polar Sun Spire, north face
Polar Sun Spire, north face
Credit: Regan

About 2 years ago, I got an email from Yeti:
"Hi Regan,
Do you want to climb on Polar Sun Spire on Baffin Island?"
I answered immediately:
"Yes, I do"
Easier said than done, but step by step we were organizing the trip and solving all problems including the one at the top of the lengthy list – NO MONEY!!!
I never in my life said as many good things about myself as during the presentations of our project. I wasted the whole previous year ,when trying to kill my ego, but thanks to the meetings, we achieved healthy sponsorship.
We packed all our gear in six bags (and my ego in the seventh) before flying to Canada and meeting Ottawa Doug at the airport. I knew him from the Valley. Ottawa Doug did his solo on Mescalito in 2007. He played Pink Floyd, Rolling Stones and all good tunes from 70s and 80s. Doug , thanks for entertainment on my evenings on South Seas, and for hospitality during our short stop in Ottawa.
Next day afternoon, we were in Clyde River...
A window at the airport in Clyde River.
A window at the airport in Clyde River.
Credit: Regan

Our agent – Levi, picked up us from the airport...
Credit: Regan

...and we pitched our tent, because we had no money in the budget for 250$ pp/pn room in a local hotel. It was cold (minus 25 C. degree), but cheap (free), so we were happy...
Credit: Regan

Next day we did sightseeing and paid a short visit to the local store. I have never been in Beverly Hills, but the prices there must be similar to Clyde River, so we only sent some postcards and took some pictures...
Credit: Regan
Credit: Regan

...and came back to our igloo. After another cold night, we packed all the gear and...
Credit: Regan

...it was the time to go to the mountains.
Credit: Regan

The first stop was next to an iceberg. We had a chance to warm up frozen feet, take some pictures, chat with guides (Denis and Esa) and recover after a crazy ride in a box on a sled with no suspension system...
Credit: Regan

At another stop, we met some hunters with dogs. We shook hands and I realized that this was yet another local guy who had missing fingers...Hmm, it's not only me who finds this a really cold place.
Credit: Regan

Late afternoon, we set our BC at the base of the wall.
Checking all the gear, I realized, that the seventh bag was missing; I was ready for the wall. :) On the right was The Great and Secret Show (J. Chapman, W. Hollinger, M. Synnott, 1996), on the left was Norwegian Route (B. Bo, H. Hagen, T. Roisli, O. Wiik, 2000), but on the middle we put some dots saying: we gonna link them !!!!
Some sources say, that PSS is 1300m tall, other than over 1500m, regardless this was a huge wall
Credit: Regan

Next morning, my watch shows – 14/04/2012, 6:00 am, minus 20 C. degree...
It is time to go. We were hungry for a climb. No time for bla, bla, another coffee, taking pictures etc – The time is NOW!!!!
We took the first picture in the second day, when we were on fixed ropes.
Credit: Regan


Yeti was super effective on mixt climbing section below Camp II (M5-M7+/A3). The rock was loose, but The Boomerang crack was beautiful...
Credit: Regan

Day by day, we changed perspective. View from Camp II ledge. I was on the fixed lines...
Credit: Regan

21th of April. The Camp II is ready...
Credit: Regan

Daily cold news:
Yeti lost feeling in toes. Warming up of white toes took over an hour after breakfast, then he lead two pitches as we planned.
Thanks to the belay sit, we can take off the pressure on legs and keep warm feet. Belay exercises are necessary all the time. Do not be lazy, do not loose you toes...
Do not forget to empty your PPB ( Personal Piss Bottle), otherwise you need to step outside of portaledge...
Yeti makes the portions for meals. I am a cook. Perfect team work.
Temps in the portaledge – minus 10 to minus 20.


The Boomerang above the Camp III
The Boomerang above the Camp III
Credit: Regan

Jugging on fix lines was a daily nightmare...
Credit: Regan

The second half of the wall
Credit: Regan

Yeti just before the entry to The Fridge
Credit: Regan

Yeti in The Fridge
Credit: Regan

The last return to the Camp II
Credit: Regan

21 hours hauling day to the Camp III
Credit: Regan
The middle of The Boomerang
The middle of The Boomerang
Credit: Regan

At 2:00 in the morning we set the Camp III, then we had a day off
Credit: Regan

Daily cold news:
Every evening our Primaloft sleeping bags are like frozen balls ,except the down one which is like ice ball, as a result we can use only that Pimaloft bags.
Every day, My Gore Tex jacket sticks to the Primaloft inner jacket by ice. I have to rip one from the other...
In some really cold days, we can shot no more than 10-20 photos, because of flat batteries. Thanks to solar panel system we can recharge them. We took over 6000 photos plus some videos...

The crack on the Headwall reminded me climbing on The Shield – beautiful and clean...
The Headwall
The Headwall
Credit: Regan

The start was hard and exciting - hooks, head, rivets, and many, many beaks...
Credit: Regan
Credit: Regan

Short explanation for some of you who already started to laugh because of the orange poo bag : On this wall we carry our drilling set in the orange bag. It was scary start to the pitch, but not that much...:)
Credit: Regan

Return to Camp III after another pitch on the Headwall
Credit: Regan

The Bird
A bird has been flying around the mountain for the past two days. Black, silent and lost. Unfolding his wings and embracing the wind. He is alike the birds of the Inuit sculptures. When he flies away we will be alone again.
Credit: Regan
Credit: Regan

Total Commitment
No excuses in a team of two and no ego in a team of two.
Yeti said: We were like soldiers in the trenches. We had no choice , we had to fight arm by arm from the bottom to the top...
Bad conditions are not a sufficient excuse. We resolved to climb every day...
Racking up before pitch 27
Credit: Regan

Leading
Credit: Regan

Belaying
Credit: Regan

The next day was the last hauling day
Credit: Regan

3th of May. 20th day of climb. Camp IV is ready...
Credit: Regan

The Silence
Nobody ever makes any noise here. No animals, people, or flowing water to be heard. Apart from the sounds of our climbing and falling rocks in the course of 25 days we heard only:
a skidoo - 3 times
a jet plane - 3 times
beckoning huntsmen - 1 time

Silence is solitude...
Credit: Regan
Credit: Regan
Pitch 27
Pitch 27
Credit: Regan

Pitch 27 was one of the most spectacular.
Credit: Regan

Every time we passed that pitch we enjoyed the space...
Credit: Regan

The top is very close...
Credit: Regan

7th of May 2012. Yeti on the top
Credit: Regan

...and me
Credit: Regan

We had a little party, when we came back to the portaledge.
Credit: Regan

Straight after our celebration, Yeti began to read his book and I started to write my notes, then when I looked my climbing partner he seemed to be a little strange; more motivated, more ambitious, I would even say aggressive. Maybe it was the effect of his devotion to our ethos of "total commitment" or maybe I should not to drink that particular whiskey....
Credit: Regan
I soon realize, that after this wall we will never be the same...

The next morning, we dropped ropes for the descent and in ten hours we got to the fiord.
Credit: Regan
Credit: Regan

Superbalance, VII, A4, M7+
14/04 - 07/05/2012
24 days (including 2 rest days)

Behind us , we just left the wall with linked dots...
Credit: Regan
Credit: Regan

People
Fishermen who shared some food with us...
Credit: Regan
Hunters in a hut on the way to Clyde River
Credit: Regan
The last negotiation with Levi...
Credit: Regan
In Ottawa Yeti said: Every time I do some new wall, I go to some local barber shop...
We went to the towns Little Italy. Doug mentioned something about our climb. The guy from the left , was peeling of a pear, then in silence just cut the fruit on 4 pieces and shared with us. That was a great prize for me...
Credit: Regan

At the airport, we shook hands with Yeti and we went back to the ordinary life...
Credit: Regan

I would like to thank our sponsors: Polish Alpine Association, CAN Offshore, Goal Zero, Grivel, Zamberlan, and also Olympus, Timex, Monkey's Grip, Petzl, MSR, Black Diamond, Uvex, Lyofood, Atest, EPA.
Of course behind all brands and companies are people who shared our enthusiasm and crazy idea of climb that piece of rock...You guys rock!: Adam, Miriam, Piotr, Nathan, Alistair, Pawel, Mark, Dominique, Siobhan, Wojtek.
Thanks for any help, info and thumbs up: Ottawa Doug, Bjarte Bo, Mike “Twid” Turner, Mark Synnott, Maciek Ciesielski, Pete MacPherson, Tom Evans ( special thanks for the question), Adam, Russ, Levi, Denis, hunters who shared food with us, all friendly people on check-in desks at the airports and security guys who understood what we had to do...:)


Anyone who needs more info, feel free and drop me an e-mail ( I always respond).
More details (topo, gear list, day to day diary, blog, etc) you can find on my website :
http://www.reganclimbing.com/index.php?lg=12
See you in the Valley...
Regan

...and some short video by Yeti:


...and another one by Bartek Wnek:














  Trip Report Views: 15,394
Regan
About the Author
Regan is a big wall climber from Poland.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
  Jun 7, 2012 - 08:35pm PT
whoa. I see the Poles have kept thier touch for pushing the boat way out there!



Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
  Jun 7, 2012 - 08:36pm PT
Wow!

Super interesting and super impressive!

Thanks so much for posting this!
Gene

climber
  Jun 7, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
Wonderful, Regan, fantastic! Thanks for another great report.

g
Anne

Trad climber
Portland, OR
  Jun 7, 2012 - 08:55pm PT
Awesome send! What's next!!
east side underground

climber
Hilton crk,ca
  Jun 7, 2012 - 09:02pm PT
you guys are bad ass- cheers
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Jun 8, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
I will remember you guys every time I think it's cold in an unplanned bivy in Yosemite.

I'm imagining the first hour of you standing in that cold and thinking, "yeah about a month of this would be good."

Instead of saying "badass!" for other people's reports, when I want to complement them from now on I should say "that's so regan/yeti"

You should make some bucks taking the slideshow on the road. Really nice what you shared here.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
  Jun 7, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
Proud! Thanks for sharing. Some of those shots look pretty gnarly. Great job.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Jun 7, 2012 - 09:09pm PT
Now that was very cool...
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
  Jun 7, 2012 - 09:10pm PT
Wow... Amazing TR
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
  Jun 7, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
Holy crap!
Well done you two. Awesome send!
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
  Jun 7, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
Am I wrong or did you guys put up the most direct line on that monster.

Way to go and thanks for the awesome TR.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Jun 7, 2012 - 09:34pm PT
Best TR ever.
David Wilson

climber
CA
  Jun 7, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
jeeeeezzzuussss Regan, i was worried about you up on el cap a few years ago when a big storm came in. now i know there was no need to be concerned. proud effort !
skywalker

climber
  Jun 7, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
Jesus Christ! F-man, way to go!!!!

S...

Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Jun 7, 2012 - 10:07pm PT
Do your Ballz hurt from dragging on the ground. BADASS!
cowpoke

climber
  Jun 7, 2012 - 10:16pm PT
Jeez, what a treat this tr is...unreal.

Belay exercises are necessary all the time. Do not be lazy, do not loose you toes...


Brrrr...jeez.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Jun 7, 2012 - 10:29pm PT
Sweet! Thanks fot the TR.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
  Jun 7, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
I'm gonna butcher the spelling, but: Dzenkuje for posting up!!! Awesome TR!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 7, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
Very cool,
Looks like your partner is a friend for life....
Timid TopRope

Social climber
the land of Pale Ale
  Jun 7, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
Truly awesome. I'm reading it again
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
  Jun 7, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
Incredible how well you guys handled serious cold and serious climbing for such an extended period.

Very impressive discipline.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  Jun 7, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
AWESOME Trip Report, Regan!!!!

It's to COLD for this Crippled old GEEZERS body anymore.
I would have FROZEN solid after the first day there!
Give me them NICE 110 degree days anyday and I'll be happy.


KUDOs to You and Yeti, for pushing thru to the end.
I'll bet you were really GLAD to get back to civilization and finally get WARM!


:)
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Jun 7, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
Great story Regan!

You look happy doing what you do best...

Brrrrrr!!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Jun 7, 2012 - 11:30pm PT
You guys are pussies

Always complaining about -20 temperatures 4,000 feet up a wall in the arctic

pussies

(:
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Jun 7, 2012 - 11:31pm PT
Great report and what a climb!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Jun 7, 2012 - 11:39pm PT
Great adventure, wonderful send, thanks for posting it here for us to read!
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jun 7, 2012 - 11:48pm PT
Diggin' it, Regan. That is one beautiful place, huh?
Fab pics & great TR. 7 thumbs up.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Jun 7, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
Way to push it guys! Great write up and thanks for posting on the Taco.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Jun 8, 2012 - 12:02am PT
Great!!! Way too badassssss for me. You guys are top shelf!
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Jun 8, 2012 - 12:07am PT
TFPU
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
  Jun 8, 2012 - 12:30am PT
Bad Ass!!!

Like something I would have loved except for the weeks of extreme work, cold and pain

Peace

karl
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Jun 8, 2012 - 01:08am PT
Regan is breaking on through to the other side . . . waaay to go dudes.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
  Jun 8, 2012 - 01:48am PT
Trip report gold! Really fun read. After a BASE jumping trip to Baffin... i have no idea how you guys tolerate that cold. Proud. Great photos and captions. Was that Noah in one of the last photos? I listened to a lot of Tupac and Snoop with that guy. Great times. Sam was our other guide. Would love to be back there, with warmer clothes.
Hoots

climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  Jun 8, 2012 - 01:45am PT
Regan (Marek), your TRs are some perfect blend of humor and humble badass memoir. This one takes the cake though. SO SICK!
See ya in the Valley mate.
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
  Jun 8, 2012 - 01:58am PT
Awesome TR and proud climb. Thanks for sharing your pics and story with us.
pc

climber
  Jun 8, 2012 - 02:00am PT
Very fun report. I can only imagine the suffering. Well done!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jun 8, 2012 - 02:08am PT
sooo great!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Jun 8, 2012 - 02:55am PT
I can't imagine what would be next...you've pretty much done it.

Thanks for the write-up and the photos. We are not worthy.

le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jun 8, 2012 - 03:02am PT


snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
  Jun 8, 2012 - 06:48am PT
what just happened
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Jun 8, 2012 - 09:20am PT
I think the old saying
"Our dream vacation is your worst nightmare"
applies here.

Well done!

It is 41degrees C in arizona today.
Bad Climber

climber
  Jun 8, 2012 - 09:44am PT
Yup, we not worthy. Really awesome, in the true, clear meaning of that word. Thanks so much for taking the time and effort to put this up for us!

BAd
Morgan

Trad climber
East Coast
  Jun 8, 2012 - 10:29am PT
Supercool, Regan!
Jeremy

climber
  Jun 8, 2012 - 10:40am PT
**F*#K YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!**

SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!

Jeremy
Lasti

Trad climber
Budapest
  Jun 8, 2012 - 10:55am PT
Dobra robota.

Lasti

p.s.: what next?
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
  Jun 8, 2012 - 12:14pm PT
Great Trip Report! Whoa Man! Supernatural stuff and gripping..........Thanks to you both. One Question......how did your digital camera work in those cold conditions.... what kind of battery?????
stevep

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
  Jun 8, 2012 - 12:26pm PT
Wow. Very impressive. I don't even want to ski when it is that cold. Much less do hard climbing.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
  Jun 8, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
When you are badass in those kind of conditions...you ARE BADASS!
Michael Nicholson

Big Wall climber
Thousand Oaks
  Jun 8, 2012 - 03:08pm PT
Bold climbing with a good TR! Nice work!
Regan

Big Wall climber
Author's Reply  Jun 8, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
Hi, Thanks for all comments, grats and responses.
You all rock!!! Thanks

Some short answer regarding cameras:
I had Olympus TG 820 and DSLR Olympus E-3. I had no problem to minus 10 and even in lower temps, but I could not keep the cameras outside all the time. Using a camera in that conditions we had 2 problems - coldness and humidity in portaledge during cooking.
I had some LI batteries, but in that temps nothing works fine. The most important was recharging system, solar panel+battery+inverter ( Goal Zero). You can check all technical details on my website.
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  Jun 8, 2012 - 04:28pm PT
Absolutely stellar!! Thanks so much for posting.

Best,
lars
Dos XX

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Jun 8, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
Wow! Ragan rocks!
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
  Jun 8, 2012 - 05:14pm PT
Impressive guys- congratulations!
Silver

Gym climber
  Jun 8, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
Awesome job guys way to go.

I remember the silence on our trip it was really hard the first few days to hear nothing. It was even harder upon the return to see people and all the stuff we have and dont need.


You guys inspire and thats no BS.
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
  Jun 8, 2012 - 05:52pm PT
F'ing A Right!
That's hard core, man!
Full on contitions!
AKDOG

Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
  Jun 8, 2012 - 05:53pm PT
Thanks for posting!, what an adventure, I could feel the cold coming off my computer. Bad ass
Hannes

climber
  Jun 8, 2012 - 07:39pm PT
wow, simply wow!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
  Jun 8, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
Thanks, Marek!
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
  Jun 8, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
So cooooooold !!!!!!!!

Nice!
Erik
phile

Trad climber
SF, CA
  Jun 8, 2012 - 09:02pm PT
Really impressive.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jun 8, 2012 - 09:38pm PT
Credit: micronut

Holy Hard Core! Looking up when most of us would only be looking down. Way to go gents. Bravo. Thanks for sharing your amazing adventure with stellar photography and written word.

You two strong like bull!
NFB

Mountain climber
Wilson, Wyoming
  Jun 8, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
I am voting for Regan.

Another fine trip report. Thanks.
Mark Rodell

Trad climber
Bangkok
  Jun 8, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
A very fine read. Thank you.
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
  Jun 9, 2012 - 01:21am PT
Wspanialy wyczyn i doskonale opisany! Gratulacje!!!!
Andrzej
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jun 9, 2012 - 09:15pm PT
mind-blowing. hope you have many more like that!
Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
  Jun 9, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
Hey Guys,

There is only one thing to say - YOU GUYS ARE BADASS!
I only saw a few of the pics at my home, but this TR really tells a big chunk of the story. Amazing vertical spaces, hard climbing, harder weather and two climbers fully committed. As always those of us reading this TR who weren't there think we know how tough it was, but actually don't fully understand.

I can't imagine what else there is for you guys to go climb. As always your TR's are funny and informative at the same time. I love that opening picture beside the title Superbalance. Good art! Huge hello to Marcin (Yeti) and to you also Marek (Regan). Looking forward to the next time we meet in the valley.

Very best wishes,
Doug
sullly

Gym climber
  Jun 9, 2012 - 11:38pm PT
Wow! Great read and view.
namascar

Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
  Jun 10, 2012 - 12:08am PT
Polar Sun Spire in the center left...more or less
Polar Sun Spire in the center left...more or less
Credit: namascar

Same view including the Polar Sun Spire from Google Earth
Same view including the Polar Sun Spire from Google Earth
Credit: namascar

Nice report, good times. It made me look again to a photo I took over the Baffin Island from the plane on my way back from Europe. It includes the Polar Sun Spire.
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
  Jun 10, 2012 - 12:32am PT
F*#k yeah Regan and Doug!!!
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
  Jun 10, 2012 - 12:53am PT
Holy frickin cow!!! BADASS!!

Unreal place to be.

Congrats!

Why does this rope look weird?

Credit: Regan
RDB

Social climber
wa
  Jun 10, 2012 - 01:56am PT
FOOK YA! Some mighty stellar chit!
laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
  Jun 10, 2012 - 02:19am PT
Cool TR, looks like lots of "type 3 fun"....

Did they make you guys carry a rifle (protection against polar bears) like my friends did a couple of years back?
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jun 11, 2012 - 12:29am PT
Methinks our boy Regan is Waaaay more badass than he lets on.
Nice stylings, sir.
Groove big, Marek.
Proud to have hung about & tipped a few with thee. Oh, yes.

Edit: to the previous poster...in this Park, a high powered rifle is just another good idea. You are prey without(and sometimes with)it.
Plus you can score a new sealskin haulbag.
Regan

Big Wall climber
Author's Reply  Jun 10, 2012 - 09:27am PT
Yeti and me want to thank you all for your comments. Also, I want to thank all guys who climbed the wall before us. They inspired us for taking the challenge. It was like sharing a flame of a candle...

Ottawa Doug - special thanks and see you in the magic Valley.
The true about being Badass is that we are Badass when we are back home. When we are on the wall, we are always lost softies like Sierra Ledge Rat said...:))))))

Paul Souza - What weird is with the rope?
Color? The shot has been taken with Magic Filter.
Zig zag? Because of back cleaning...
The angle? because during the shot, I kept the camera very close to the wall.

Laughingman - We had the gun, but fortunately we didn't have to use...
Flower Power
Flower Power
Credit: Regan

Cheers
Regan
Grampa

climber
from SoCal
  Jun 10, 2012 - 10:15am PT
Speechless! Amazing to a whole new level.
The Alpine

climber
  Jun 10, 2012 - 10:37am PT
Wow.

Conveys a very strong sense of being waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay out there.

Nice fukcing job!
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Jun 10, 2012 - 11:41am PT
Wow! Thank you for sharing an amazing journey!

I now have a whole new definition for the word:

SUFFERFEST!
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
  Jun 10, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
GNARL!
ChileMangoMouth

climber
CA
  Jun 10, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
Awesome trip report! What a great read, and very inspiring!
bbbeans

Trad climber
  Jun 10, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
Yeti and Regan are supermen! Really impressive. Thanks for sharing this experience with the rest of us!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Jun 10, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
OMG! I am not worthy!!!!

Regan! sh#t, man! Bad Friggen Ass!
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
  Jun 11, 2012 - 11:04am PT
inspiring report--although for some reason i'm not inspired to undertake this.

pretty cold temperatures, but would i be right in assuming the weather is more reliable in april than july or august for a long climb like that? i think april is preferred for denali climbs because of that--deep chill but good weather.

congrats on keeping all your fingers and toes. FYI, i lived in beverly hills for a year quite cheaply, but didn't eat in any of the restaurants and didn't stay in any of the hotels.
Gagner

climber
Boulder
  Jun 11, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
PROUD.

And way to stay psyched, and keeping after it for days on end.

It's really hard to convey the scale and magnitude of that wall. When Lovelace and I were below it on our way in to Walker Citadel in '95 we were in AWE. What wasn't conveyed here is that Polar Sun faces east, so it doesn't get much sun that far north. It's also right where the main fjord forks, with the Walker Arm heading off to the right. Because of this aspect the face is right in a wind tunnel as the wind barrels off the ocean, and down the main fjord - headlong in to this face.

Proud guys, proud.

WOOT......Paul
Double D

climber
  Jun 11, 2012 - 07:05pm PT
Wow...that's what I call a BIG WALL! Nice job.
Regan

Big Wall climber
Author's Reply  Jun 12, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
Thanks again...

Tony Bird - temps in april are really low, but feeling of coldness is even worse. The difference between Winter and Summer is that in the Winter snow storm you can climb (slowly but you can), but in the rain/snow storm this is impossible or much harder...

Paul Gagner- yes, we had 20 min of sun on the Camp II on north face during a sunset starting at 9:00pm, then all the time cold north shade.BTW your story about return in 1995 is really epic. Did you write something about it...? After 23 days on the wall you hike back nearly 200km!!! Believe me, on some belay I tried to imaging your trip. Respect...
gerhard friedrich rudolf kohl

Mountain climber
bavaria
  Jun 12, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
incredible trip and so 're the pictures !!!
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
  Jun 12, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
Frickin sick,tfpu, killer pics
go-B

climber
Cling to what is good!
  Jun 12, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
SUPER SEND!
Gagner

climber
Boulder
  Jun 12, 2012 - 11:16pm PT
Hey Regan -

Wrote an article for the '95 AAJ. We didn't finish the hike out. Hiked out three days before we realized we were on a suicide mission, and turned around and hiked back three days. We had all these raging river crossings, at peak snow melt. Eventually picked-up by some guys from Clyde River.

Be in the Valley this fall for an EC route - I'd love to buy you a Cobra. Super Proud!!

Paul
Neil Chelton

climber
Bouldering your girlfriend
  Jun 12, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
That is at least 10 times more bad-ass than anything else that i've ever heard of anyone doing ever. I am literally speechless as i look through your photos in a state of total bewilderment. My eyes are wide open and i'm actually drooling. That is fcuking incredible. How can you possibly live a normal life now? Was it even possible to return to civilization without some sort of massive culture shock? You guys are an inspiration.

Neil
Hummerchine

Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
  Jun 13, 2012 - 12:59am PT
Not much I can add to what has already been said. Wonderful TR, freaking cool send, I'm impressed beyond words, envious on many levels...sounds like the adventure of a lifetime times a thousand. Thanks so much for sharing that.

Man, you ain't EVER gonna forget that!!!
Jeff Gorris

climber
Not from, Portlandia
  Jun 13, 2012 - 01:24am PT
Hellofa Excellent.
yosguns

climber
San Mateo, California
  Jun 13, 2012 - 01:32am PT
This is super inspiring and I feel honored to have read the tale. Thanks for the report. :)
MisterE

climber
  Jun 13, 2012 - 08:45am PT
Wow - Sufferfest is right.

I had to put on my puffy just to read this...in summer...in SoCal.

Great TR!
cowpoke

climber
  Jun 13, 2012 - 11:41am PT
front page, please
neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
  Jun 13, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
Dang...like others have said, that TR made me f*#kin' cold...good job.
callum

Trad climber
UK
  Jun 13, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
Ultimate RESPECT!

so so well written.

I feel a bit soft going sport climbing in Spain all winter now.....:)

Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
  Jun 14, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
Bump for my BADA$$ friends!

Cheers,
Doug
paganmonkeyboy

climber
mars...it's near nevada...
  Jun 15, 2012 - 12:28am PT
Whoa...amazing...one of most amazing ever...slow clap, hat off, slight bow as i back away...
laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
  Jun 15, 2012 - 03:59am PT
Credit: laughingman
cowpoke

climber
  Jun 15, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
Beautiful sunny day at the crag and talked much of this tr -- preweekend bump back to the top.
jmap

Social climber
NC
  Jun 15, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
gold star. beyond comprehension. what does the world look like after that?
Stu27

Sport climber
West Bloomfield, MI
  Jun 27, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
Two words: Piolet d'Or

Great report. Great photos. You really show how important humor, resourcefulness, and determination are to success. You guys rock (pun intended).
The Alpine

climber
  Jun 28, 2012 - 12:17am PT
Alpinist write up: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12s/newswire-superbalance
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  Jun 28, 2012 - 01:54am PT
Wow guys. Thanks for the share. You guys are infinity badass!
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
  Jun 28, 2012 - 10:30am PT
Yes...Great climbing by great climbers!!!
alpinerockfiend

Trad climber
the Magic City
  Jun 28, 2012 - 10:52am PT
Thanks for sharing this... incredible!!!
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
  Jun 28, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
Excellent. What an adventure. As much as I love adventure, some badass men mentioned COLD many, many times. Take no prisoners!
Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
  Jun 29, 2012 - 10:07pm PT
Bump because this is actually a climbing thread! Just read it again and am still amazed.

Marek and Marcin, you guys rock!

Ciao,
Ottawa Doug
tarek

climber
berkeley
  Jun 30, 2012 - 02:56am PT
Holy frozen mackerel.
What an incredible climb.
Great report.
Hats off.
Marsupial Rat

Trad climber
Australia
  Jul 1, 2012 - 06:51pm PT
If aliens ever threaten our planet, we should blast AC/DC from the top of Everest 24 hours a day and email the invaders a copy of this TR.

Knowing that Earth has even 2 blokes as tough as this will convince any space arseholes to keep moving.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Jul 1, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
rad rad rad folkin' write up

those pictures are piercing!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Jul 1, 2012 - 11:16pm PT
Proud and wild adventure lads!

Way to hang tough and finish it off.

Thanks for sharing your experience with us!
Allen Hill

Social climber
CO.
  Jul 2, 2012 - 12:18am PT
These guy's should get a chapter in the second addition of "Freedom Climbers." I think this may be the best trip report I've ever seen on this website. How he keeps a sense of humor about such a clearly very serious and dangerous climb is beyond me. I'd love the AAC Journal to publish it as it is. It'd be a great statement.
iep

climber
  Jul 2, 2012 - 11:53am PT
every night Chuck Norris goes to bed, he checks underneath for Yeti & Regan.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Jul 3, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
So badass. The only thing you missed was decorating the inside of your ledge with hard core porn like those Russian guys did.

Rock & Ice got endless bitching for publishing those shots......

Seriously. What an adventure. Weather? What weather!!!
Regan

Big Wall climber
Author's Reply  Jul 4, 2012 - 12:34pm PT
Thank you for all great comments and congrats. I am amazed at how big is the big wall community. I thought we are like dying dinosaurs ... :)
nopantsben

climber
  Jul 25, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
wow! thanks for putting this together.. you guys are badass...
i came back from a trip to baffin yesterday and this is the third thing i see on the internet!... hardcore!!
baffin is such a wild, mind-bending place!
congratulations!
those pics are the most interesting climbing pics i have seen in a long time.
...and we thought we had bad weather... ;-)
tarek

climber
berkeley
  Jul 25, 2012 - 02:43pm PT
only ever did one wall--the nose. love bouldering, never did any winter climbing. but anyone with the tiniest bit of a climbing soul can see that this is an incredible project. It's really a privilege to read about it. If rank were based on views, I bet this report would rarely leave the front page...
pile

Mountain climber
Lone Pine CA
  Jul 25, 2012 - 04:02pm PT
RESPECT

holy sh#t guys thats a proud send, awesome TR as well.....

Thats pretty heavy
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Aug 28, 2012 - 07:13am PT
Holy frig! I totally missed this amazing and unbelievable ascent and trip report because I was up on the wall. Dang. Big ass bump for an incredible job!

Man oh man, you Polish bastards are tough mofo's. I can't begin to imagine the sufferfest you guys would have had to endure to put this route up. What an outstanding job!

How much fuel did you bring per person per day, what stove system did you use, and how many stoves did you bring? How about rivet and bolt count? Those steep headwall cracks look stellar!

My toque is off to you guys, eh? I owe you some beers on the bridge next time.

Cheers,
Pete Zabrok nee Zaborowski,
The Penguin Who Hates The Cold
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Aug 28, 2012 - 09:14am PT
I can't believe you mentioned Zodiac in the same breath as this climb!
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Aug 28, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
Maybe a naked ascent of Zodiac in January, hauling blocks of ice that are melted against one's body during the night so they can be poured liquid over the body during the day?
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
  Aug 28, 2012 - 04:40pm PT
Super burly - yet I just can't picture myself enjoying any of those belays enough to do it myself.
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
  Aug 28, 2012 - 11:22pm PT
I don't even know what to say. I mean...
that reset my whole notion of what is possible.
I didn't even know it was possible to stay on a wall that long, in that kind of cold, and live to tell about it.
Are you guys human?
What also amazes me is that you liked doing it.
Big congratulations, 110% commitment for sure. Way to keep going up.
What's next!? I shudder to think...
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Aug 28, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
Another question!

Why do you guys climb in April? I know that this is the same time of year as when Synnott and Hollinger climbed their route, and I don't recall why they chose to climb then.

Why not come in the summertime, and make the approach in a boat?

Brrrrrr................
Regan

Big Wall climber
Author's Reply  Aug 29, 2012 - 04:17am PT
Thanks to everyone again. Awesome comments!

Pete - a few answers...
We had 3 gallons of white gas. In a fact, we carried four, but one was not even opened.
We used multifuel stove MSR GXT Ex and we had another one as a backup (Edelrid)- not any problems at all.
30 belay bolts have been hand drilled and we place 15 rivets. 13 rivets for bypassing loose rock sections (10 on the end of the Boomerang and 3 on the beginning of the Arena) and 2 on A4 pitch. The detailed topo you can find on my web page or I can email you.
April/May is a cold time on the east coast of Baffin, but the weather is more stable then in summer season (see the last TR from Baffin). Generaly we called this climb as big wall alpine, because of winter conditions and mixed climbing techniques. BTW Synnott/Hollinger/Chapman climbed in May-July...
mountain dog

Trad climber
over the hills and far away
  Sep 18, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
Quite possibly the most bad ass climb I have read about on ST. So PROUD!
paganmonkeyboy

climber
mars...it's near nevada...
  Sep 18, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
Moooooaaaarrrr !!!
mountain dog

Trad climber
over the hills and far away
  Sep 19, 2012 - 12:25am PT
Prouder than shooting bears, killing dogs, threatening children, talking about politics or Jeebus. Prouder than sport climbing too.
paganmonkeyboy

climber
mars...it's near nevada...
  Sep 19, 2012 - 12:42am PT
sure, bring sport climbing into it you bastard...
Gal

Trad climber
going big air to fakie
  Sep 19, 2012 - 12:50am PT
So cool, I can't even imagine such an endeavor... great frickin' job, report, writing, pics... yaya!
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
  Nov 5, 2012 - 06:36pm PT
Radness bump.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Nov 5, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
Mad impressive
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
  Nov 5, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
Good everytime!
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California
  Nov 5, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
Intense, and incredible to read and look at... thank you for sharing.

(Cannot stop reviewing... Much respect)

~leggs
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
  Nov 16, 2012 - 05:26pm PT
Damn! Super Gnar!!!!
hairyapeman

Trad climber
Fres-yes
  Nov 16, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
Amazing pictures!
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
  Nov 16, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
Polak potrafi! Czytalem kilka razy i zawsze z przyjemnoscia.

Outstanding!
m_jones

Trad climber
Carson City, NV
  Nov 17, 2012 - 01:49am PT
WOW Regan - totally missed this report the first time.

Spelbinding read for a truly hard core adventure.
Thanks for inviting us for a glimpse of what you endured.
I simply cannot fathom how out there you were.

WOW!!


Nice to have met you this fall before you started up Native Son.
I am sure you have a great tale to tell about that as well.
All the best.

max
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Nov 17, 2012 - 02:04am PT
WooT!
Matt Thomsen

Big Wall climber
Places
  Nov 17, 2012 - 09:44am PT
I missed this the first time... Great job Regan and Yeti!
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
  Nov 17, 2012 - 10:29am PT
That was awesome!! Great job. Had to go turn up the thermostat to finish reading that one!!!


westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
  Dec 8, 2012 - 07:30pm PT
OMG, mouthhangingopenjawonthefloor! WOW! What an effort. It's mind boggling the conditions that you guys were operating in. Mixed climbing to M7+ with all that aid gear hanging off and jackets and giant boots...

Way to go guys. Great send. Congratulations!

Wes
robfritz

Trad climber
Pollock Pines, CA
  Dec 9, 2012 - 12:56am PT
So rad! Does it get heavy hauling around such heavy balls? lol
Keith Leaman

Trad climber
  Dec 31, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
In case anyone missed it-thought I'd bump one of my favorite TRs of 2012.
prickle

Gym climber
globe,az
  Dec 31, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
super badasses, no other way to put it
sullly

Gym climber
  Dec 31, 2012 - 09:14pm PT
Another 2012 winner.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
  Dec 31, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
The Poles have been some of the toughest guys around since the 1970's.
You guys make the other 99.999999% of climbers look pretty lame.
10b4me

climber
  Jan 1, 2013 - 01:53am PT
TFPU
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
  Jan 2, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
Good lord!
Regan

Big Wall climber
Author's Reply  Jan 7, 2013 - 05:33am PT
Happy, Exciting and Successful New Year!!!
Thanks again everyone...

Yeti has been made some short video as an example of about 4 hours wall short films we have. We are ready to work on some short movie project with any filmaker, who is interested in that idea.
Feel free and drop me an email.
Thanks

briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
  Jan 7, 2013 - 01:17pm PT
Soooooooooooo gnarly
phillipso

Trad climber
uk
  Jan 7, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
Inspirational stuff.
QITNL

climber
  Feb 1, 2013 - 03:55am PT
Superbumpage! Thanks for the TR and best regards to you!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Feb 1, 2013 - 04:05pm PT
Regan, who is the music in that vid?

Watching you clean and rack gear with those gloves and in that cold there makes me wonder: did you end up dropping a bunch of gear/stuff?

And - any lead falls?

Love this shot:


Thanks again for a mindblowing TR.
Regan

Big Wall climber
Author's Reply  Feb 2, 2013 - 05:32am PT
le_bruce, the music is by Dj Shadow - Giving up the Ghost.
We did not drop too many stuff. As far, as I remember just one pulley, which by a mirracle uncliped from a harness during jugging. That effect on our hauling, but Yeti is strong, so no problem...:)I couldn't clean some BD cam, so anybody will do a second ascent can get Nr2 or 3 just below the Fridge...
Falls? Yeti - one, leading M7 pitch. Me - three on aiding. Two on the Boomerang, one on A3 section, just above A4 on the Headwall.

Thanks, that photo from the Headwall is my favorite too...
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
  Feb 2, 2013 - 07:57am PT
Oh come on, they are from Poland. They are used to it.

I had a Polish neighbor here in Ireland, Agatha, and she said it was cold here. "I said, Agatha, you are from Poland, you get sub-zero weather."

"Yes, but the Irish cold goes right to the bone."

"That is because it is a wet cold," I replied.

Regan and Yeti, my hat is off to you two. Cheers.


This TR, Myles' and Amy's TR, and others make the Taco Stand what it is.


PS I've always wanted to climb in the High Tatras, and Baffin too. Perhaps someday the former, but I think the latter is beyond me.
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
  Feb 10, 2013 - 04:22pm PT
Out there!! I missed this earlier. Wow. Makes an El Cap route seem like a beach vacation...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Feb 10, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
Excellent TR. TFPU!
cowpoke

climber
  Jun 5, 2013 - 03:01pm PT
bump for my all time fave tr...so crazy impressive
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
  Jul 13, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
Bump!
Regan

Big Wall climber
Author's Reply  Jul 16, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
Hey, I just want to share another video.
Edited by Bartek Wnek:
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
  Jul 16, 2013 - 01:09pm PT
This quite simply is way up there in the "Badass as it Gets" category!
Majid_S

Mountain climber
Karkoekstan
  Jul 16, 2013 - 04:27pm PT
great photos, good job
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
  Dec 1, 2013 - 09:51pm PT
These guys crush, send, stylie the routes they put up.... Baffin, to Paki.... Boom!


Up top!
bbbeans

Trad climber
  Jun 5, 2014 - 06:30am PT
a bump for one of the greatest things on the internet.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Jun 5, 2014 - 08:06pm PT
love those videos, holy cow. had to put my puffy on just to watch 'em.

I couldn't clean some BD cam, so anybody will do a second ascent can get Nr2 or 3 just below the Fridge...

Man that'd be funny as feces if you posted a 'left gear at the crag please return' thread. hahaha!!

thanks for sharing your radness!!!


BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Jun 5, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
These are the kinds of adventures that end up defining much of your life and who you become. Only a tiny few have the capability and bravery to attempt something this huge.

Awesome.
TWP

Trad climber
Mancos, CO
  Jun 5, 2014 - 05:24pm PT
I've read many epic stories and imagined "I could have done that - might have even enjoyed it!" Not this! Too epic! A whole different difficulty and suffering scale applies to climbs put up by Polish climbers. Are we sure Regan and Yeti are human?
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Jun 5, 2014 - 08:07pm PT
We had the gun, but fortunately we didn't have to use...


No polar bear in its right mind is gunna mess with any animal that can climb that route in those conditions. Let alone two of ya.

grover

climber
Northern Mexico
  Jun 6, 2014 - 09:27pm PT


Stellar TR

Nice pics as well.

Gracias
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