Riley Wyna
Trad climber
A crack near you
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Dec 10, 2012 - 05:14pm PT
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Is this a troll?
Bring some gear and put in an anchor where ever ya want...
WTF..
My grandmother is free to hang your top ropes for a fee....
She can teach you 50 ways to deal with this problem - she may even take her teeth out for ya if you are nice.
PM me pussies....Yayaya
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Dec 10, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
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What if the route and its features end at 140 feet?
good to know, now I'll bring 2 ropes, like I've always done :) hehehehe
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Dec 10, 2012 - 05:21pm PT
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But the real question is WTF is going on with the price of ropes? Seems like a majority of the ropes I was considering were 70 meters.
Super Sizing?
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khanom
Trad climber
Greeley Hill
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Dec 10, 2012 - 05:36pm PT
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Kannonnn... if you have ever humped your rack and stuff a long way uphill you would not make such a dumb statement.
You mean when I climb long alpine routes? It's generally uphill both ways.
I don't sport climb. I rarely do single pitch anything.
So in my experience, which is pretty extensive, if you are going to bring a rope at all it better let you go way faster... an extra 30 feet per pitch saves you time. If you are too wimpy to carry an extra few pounds maybe you should stick to single pitches with an easy approach.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Dec 10, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
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ropes are for sailors
No ropes on a ship, sailors call them lines. Lines that control sails are sheets.
Arguably there is one rope on a ship, a bolt rope
70 meter ropes suck, climbed with one this summer and I am opting for a 60m
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Dec 10, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
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Yo Guy,
70 meter ropes rock. You can rap off multipitch sport climbs with one rope. The regular route on Fairview goes in six pitches with every belay on a nice ledge. You can use the rope to build the anchor and not worry about running out of rope on the pitch. 9.x X 70 m ropes are lighter then the old 11mm 150ft cords of the swami belt and hip belay days.
The only place short cords belong are on alpine routes, where the wondering nature and frequent belay stances make them the tool of choice.
Get with the times dude. Only kidding,Sort of... Hope you are well.
Did a few of those sport routes in Pine Creek last summer, good fun.
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Epic E
Big Wall climber
CA
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Dec 10, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
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These routes where all rap bolted and they should be chopped, they all could have been put up on lead.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Dec 10, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
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Wow! you didnt get the memo?
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Dec 10, 2012 - 06:28pm PT
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Wow you're complaining about climbs your friend did? And bitching that if you wanna climb them that you have to buy a seventy or take two ropes? First world problems.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 10, 2012 - 07:00pm PT
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Remember the good old days when 50m x 11mm ropes were standard?
These days, sport routes rigged for 70 meter ropes are normal and single ropes often sub 10mm.
I'll probably end up with a 70 specifically for sport climbing as a matter of choice, not obligation.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 10, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
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First off I don't think the routes I did were rap bolted. And there's a picture on Mtn Pjct of the FA of 3 Hour Arete, the dude is leading.
Permission to speak freely?
Not to be critical, because I really had fun on the routes I did there and look forward to next time, but...
If I were doing the FA of JFM, instead of 7 30+ meter pitches, I'd do 4 pitches or so, longer. You'd need two ropes to rap. You'd get up faster, and down much more easily. I realize you'd have to figure it out just right, where to locate the belay/rap stations because those long rappel pulls can easily hang up on that kind of terrain.
On 3 Hour Arete I wouldn't do anything differently, the belays are right where they belong, we got off in two raps with double 60's but on the first pull, from the top of the route down to the top of P2 the cord fell across into the gully left of the crux and got stuck - less than optimal. I was all set to redo the 3rd pitch to get it back, but my partner, Dan McHale is both strong and persistent and with his mighty pull the rope came free.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 10, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
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70m is the new 150.' Life goes on. Get used to it. Did a 70 stretcher Saturday, 20 yr old route, not sport.
Unless you live by a low rise home crag,why bother with a short rope?
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Dec 10, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
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Happie girl, the only duodess rope I could find at the co-op was a 70meter, does that mean you won't climb with me at JT this winter?
I'm coming down from the Great White North in late Jan, will you be in JT?
I will climb, but always find a way to conveniently be busy when it comes time to coiling...
I am in JT now, and likely will be for several months. But...I don't remember who you are. Wojtek? I can't think of any other Canadians I know.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Dec 10, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
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It used to be a 120' with each of us on a bowline on a coil, didn't get to far
Then a 150' and on to a 165' (50m)
Then I thought what am i doing with a 60m wtf is it with this extra rope.....
Yeah i've been using a 70 or 60m rope depending on where i'm heading
There are people using 80 and 100m ropes, holy cow
Times change, sh#t just bring two of those 120's I started with and you should make it down just fine
And yes there are many fine routes in Pine Creek
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Dec 10, 2012 - 09:14pm PT
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Happiegirl, see PM
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 10, 2012 - 11:11pm PT
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These routes where all rap bolted and they should be chopped, they all could have been put up on lead.
Seriously?
I heard the ratings there are kind of soft compared to old school areas like Tahquitz and the valley too. Although I have not done much in there. Only Pratt's crack which I thought was quite cool so are a few pumpy face climbs next to it. Would be nice to try those new routes. Too bad they are rap bolted and require a 70. I had mine stolen from a friend's house by some Mexicans. Only have a 60 now.
PS: It should be up to FA team how long the pitches are.
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Riley Wyna
Trad climber
A crack near you
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Dec 11, 2012 - 12:17am PT
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[quote] [Only Pratt's crack which I thought was quite cool so are a few pumpy face climbs next to it. Would be nice to try those new routes. Too bad they are rap bolted and require a 70. I had mine stolen from a friend's house by some Mexicans. Only have a 60 now./quote]
Sheila's is very nice also - stiff crux pitch move I thought..
Pratt's is for the ages
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 11, 2012 - 12:21am PT
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Flamethrower is awesome too! Get a 70 make your life easy.
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Dec 11, 2012 - 12:38am PT
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I just use a 60 in the Tetons. It works for the standard rap on the Grand and just about every other application in the range
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