70 meter ropes MANDATORY???? WTF???

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 21 - 40 of total 133 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Rolfr

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Dec 10, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
But the real question is WTF is going on with the price of ropes? Seems like a majority of the ropes I was considering were 70 meters.
Super Sizing?
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Dec 10, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
ropes are for sailors

No ropes on a ship, sailors call them lines. Lines that control sails are sheets.

Arguably there is one rope on a ship, a bolt rope

70 meter ropes suck, climbed with one this summer and I am opting for a 60m
Nick

climber
portland, Oregon
Dec 10, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
Yo Guy,

70 meter ropes rock. You can rap off multipitch sport climbs with one rope. The regular route on Fairview goes in six pitches with every belay on a nice ledge. You can use the rope to build the anchor and not worry about running out of rope on the pitch. 9.x X 70 m ropes are lighter then the old 11mm 150ft cords of the swami belt and hip belay days.

The only place short cords belong are on alpine routes, where the wondering nature and frequent belay stances make them the tool of choice.

Get with the times dude. Only kidding,Sort of... Hope you are well.

Did a few of those sport routes in Pine Creek last summer, good fun.
Epic E

Big Wall climber
CA
Dec 10, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
These routes where all rap bolted and they should be chopped, they all could have been put up on lead.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 10, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
Wow! you didnt get the memo?
this just in

climber
north fork
Dec 10, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
Wow you're complaining about climbs your friend did? And bitching that if you wanna climb them that you have to buy a seventy or take two ropes? First world problems.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 10, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
Remember the good old days when 50m x 11mm ropes were standard?
These days, sport routes rigged for 70 meter ropes are normal and single ropes often sub 10mm.
I'll probably end up with a 70 specifically for sport climbing as a matter of choice, not obligation.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 10, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
First off I don't think the routes I did were rap bolted. And there's a picture on Mtn Pjct of the FA of 3 Hour Arete, the dude is leading.

Permission to speak freely?

Not to be critical, because I really had fun on the routes I did there and look forward to next time, but...

If I were doing the FA of JFM, instead of 7 30+ meter pitches, I'd do 4 pitches or so, longer. You'd need two ropes to rap. You'd get up faster, and down much more easily. I realize you'd have to figure it out just right, where to locate the belay/rap stations because those long rappel pulls can easily hang up on that kind of terrain.

On 3 Hour Arete I wouldn't do anything differently, the belays are right where they belong, we got off in two raps with double 60's but on the first pull, from the top of the route down to the top of P2 the cord fell across into the gully left of the crux and got stuck - less than optimal. I was all set to redo the 3rd pitch to get it back, but my partner, Dan McHale is both strong and persistent and with his mighty pull the rope came free.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 10, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
70m is the new 150.' Life goes on. Get used to it. Did a 70 stretcher Saturday, 20 yr old route, not sport.

Unless you live by a low rise home crag,why bother with a short rope?
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
Dec 10, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
Happie girl, the only duodess rope I could find at the co-op was a 70meter, does that mean you won't climb with me at JT this winter?
I'm coming down from the Great White North in late Jan, will you be in JT?

I will climb, but always find a way to conveniently be busy when it comes time to coiling...

I am in JT now, and likely will be for several months. But...I don't remember who you are. Wojtek? I can't think of any other Canadians I know.
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Dec 10, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
It used to be a 120' with each of us on a bowline on a coil, didn't get to far
Then a 150' and on to a 165' (50m)
Then I thought what am i doing with a 60m wtf is it with this extra rope.....
Yeah i've been using a 70 or 60m rope depending on where i'm heading
There are people using 80 and 100m ropes, holy cow
Times change, sh#t just bring two of those 120's I started with and you should make it down just fine



And yes there are many fine routes in Pine Creek
Rolfr

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:14am PT
Happiegirl, see PM
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 11, 2012 - 02:11am PT
These routes where all rap bolted and they should be chopped, they all could have been put up on lead.

Seriously?

I heard the ratings there are kind of soft compared to old school areas like Tahquitz and the valley too. Although I have not done much in there. Only Pratt's crack which I thought was quite cool so are a few pumpy face climbs next to it. Would be nice to try those new routes. Too bad they are rap bolted and require a 70. I had mine stolen from a friend's house by some Mexicans. Only have a 60 now.

PS: It should be up to FA team how long the pitches are.
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Dec 11, 2012 - 02:57am PT
When I climb with small people, every ounce counts on the approach.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 11, 2012 - 03:21am PT
Flamethrower is awesome too! Get a 70 make your life easy.
Jennie

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
Dec 11, 2012 - 03:38am PT
I just use a 60 in the Tetons. It works for the standard rap on the Grand and just about every other application in the range
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 11, 2012 - 04:45am PT
I love 70 meter ropes for running pitches together on route like east butt of middle and royal arches, even galactic hitchhiker

LONG ago I gave Klaus a little grief for putting up an El Cap route that required 60 meter ropes when people were still on 50 meter ropes. If you know Klaus, you can imagine how little he cared for that feedback

Peace

Karl
cowpoke

climber
Dec 11, 2012 - 09:44am PT
this has gotta be a troll, right? I keep cracking up thinking about getting irked because 70 meters is now MANDATORY.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 11, 2012 - 10:00am PT
Not a joke. At most crags they suspend your punchcard if you don't have a 70!
Dave Kos

Trad climber
Temecula
Dec 11, 2012 - 10:06am PT
this has gotta be a troll, right? I keep cracking up thinking about getting irked because 70 meters is now MANDATORY.

It's not a troll. It's serious. There was IFSC and UIAA had recently adopted similar, but inconsistent rules on mandatory rope lengths for a single pitch climbs with fixed anchors/rappel descents.

Of course the Euros argued and couldn't come to an agreement, as they always do. So the UN Commission on Recreational Safety adopted a set of recommendations that were recently ratified. Now it is international law.

Anyone putting up a sport route of 30M or less will be getting a visit from some blue-helmeted, brown-skinned soldiers who speak with odd accents. They will chop your route.

Also, we all have to use the French grading system. You 5.12 climbers can only climb 7's now.

America is losing her sovereignty, folks. And it's not just about climbing. Mandatory rope lengths are just how they get their foot in the door. It's called "Agenda 21." Read more about it here:

http://blog.heritage.org/2011/12/05/morning-bell-agenda-21-and-the-threat-in-your-backyard/

Messages 21 - 40 of total 133 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews