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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Dec 10, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
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But the real question is WTF is going on with the price of ropes? Seems like a majority of the ropes I was considering were 70 meters.
Super Sizing?
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Dec 10, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
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ropes are for sailors
No ropes on a ship, sailors call them lines. Lines that control sails are sheets.
Arguably there is one rope on a ship, a bolt rope
70 meter ropes suck, climbed with one this summer and I am opting for a 60m
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Dec 10, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
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Yo Guy,
70 meter ropes rock. You can rap off multipitch sport climbs with one rope. The regular route on Fairview goes in six pitches with every belay on a nice ledge. You can use the rope to build the anchor and not worry about running out of rope on the pitch. 9.x X 70 m ropes are lighter then the old 11mm 150ft cords of the swami belt and hip belay days.
The only place short cords belong are on alpine routes, where the wondering nature and frequent belay stances make them the tool of choice.
Get with the times dude. Only kidding,Sort of... Hope you are well.
Did a few of those sport routes in Pine Creek last summer, good fun.
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Epic E
Big Wall climber
CA
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Dec 10, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
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These routes where all rap bolted and they should be chopped, they all could have been put up on lead.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Dec 10, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
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Wow! you didnt get the memo?
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Dec 10, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
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Wow you're complaining about climbs your friend did? And bitching that if you wanna climb them that you have to buy a seventy or take two ropes? First world problems.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 10, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
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Remember the good old days when 50m x 11mm ropes were standard?
These days, sport routes rigged for 70 meter ropes are normal and single ropes often sub 10mm.
I'll probably end up with a 70 specifically for sport climbing as a matter of choice, not obligation.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 10, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
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First off I don't think the routes I did were rap bolted. And there's a picture on Mtn Pjct of the FA of 3 Hour Arete, the dude is leading.
Permission to speak freely?
Not to be critical, because I really had fun on the routes I did there and look forward to next time, but...
If I were doing the FA of JFM, instead of 7 30+ meter pitches, I'd do 4 pitches or so, longer. You'd need two ropes to rap. You'd get up faster, and down much more easily. I realize you'd have to figure it out just right, where to locate the belay/rap stations because those long rappel pulls can easily hang up on that kind of terrain.
On 3 Hour Arete I wouldn't do anything differently, the belays are right where they belong, we got off in two raps with double 60's but on the first pull, from the top of the route down to the top of P2 the cord fell across into the gully left of the crux and got stuck - less than optimal. I was all set to redo the 3rd pitch to get it back, but my partner, Dan McHale is both strong and persistent and with his mighty pull the rope came free.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 10, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
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70m is the new 150.' Life goes on. Get used to it. Did a 70 stretcher Saturday, 20 yr old route, not sport.
Unless you live by a low rise home crag,why bother with a short rope?
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Dec 10, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
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Happie girl, the only duodess rope I could find at the co-op was a 70meter, does that mean you won't climb with me at JT this winter?
I'm coming down from the Great White North in late Jan, will you be in JT?
I will climb, but always find a way to conveniently be busy when it comes time to coiling...
I am in JT now, and likely will be for several months. But...I don't remember who you are. Wojtek? I can't think of any other Canadians I know.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Dec 10, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
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It used to be a 120' with each of us on a bowline on a coil, didn't get to far
Then a 150' and on to a 165' (50m)
Then I thought what am i doing with a 60m wtf is it with this extra rope.....
Yeah i've been using a 70 or 60m rope depending on where i'm heading
There are people using 80 and 100m ropes, holy cow
Times change, sh#t just bring two of those 120's I started with and you should make it down just fine
And yes there are many fine routes in Pine Creek
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Dec 11, 2012 - 12:14am PT
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Happiegirl, see PM
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 11, 2012 - 02:11am PT
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These routes where all rap bolted and they should be chopped, they all could have been put up on lead.
Seriously?
I heard the ratings there are kind of soft compared to old school areas like Tahquitz and the valley too. Although I have not done much in there. Only Pratt's crack which I thought was quite cool so are a few pumpy face climbs next to it. Would be nice to try those new routes. Too bad they are rap bolted and require a 70. I had mine stolen from a friend's house by some Mexicans. Only have a 60 now.
PS: It should be up to FA team how long the pitches are.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 11, 2012 - 03:21am PT
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Flamethrower is awesome too! Get a 70 make your life easy.
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Dec 11, 2012 - 03:38am PT
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I just use a 60 in the Tetons. It works for the standard rap on the Grand and just about every other application in the range
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 11, 2012 - 04:45am PT
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I love 70 meter ropes for running pitches together on route like east butt of middle and royal arches, even galactic hitchhiker
LONG ago I gave Klaus a little grief for putting up an El Cap route that required 60 meter ropes when people were still on 50 meter ropes. If you know Klaus, you can imagine how little he cared for that feedback
Peace
Karl
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cowpoke
climber
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Dec 11, 2012 - 09:44am PT
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this has gotta be a troll, right? I keep cracking up thinking about getting irked because 70 meters is now MANDATORY.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 11, 2012 - 10:00am PT
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Not a joke. At most crags they suspend your punchcard if you don't have a 70!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dec 11, 2012 - 11:13am PT
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Why don't we all start packing 140m ropes.
There are no ropes on a ship (boat). You learn your ropes on a ship, but there are no ropes on a ship. There are lines, there are sheets, and many other thing made out of rope, but there are no ropes.
There are good reasons for 60m to be the standard in climbing.
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TFSTFU
Trad climber
Utah
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Dec 11, 2012 - 11:18am PT
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Wtf is a 60 mm or 140 mm rope there Mr. technicality?
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