70 meter ropes MANDATORY???? WTF???

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Messages 81 - 100 of total 133 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
OK.... I need all you other PIE EATERS.... who ever you are to know this fact:

The climbs in Pine Creek, are not rap bolted, except the ones that are.


But Back on topic... a 80 meter rope is just plain stupid, IMHO.

Why not buy 100 meters of rope, cut it in half, and use as doubles!

Problem solved, full circle.

Ron... great idea! chop the NOSE down to one pitch.

But what if I wish to be lowered?????

Where are they going to put the Musseys???
RP3

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Dec 12, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
Funny...I also tend to think the extra meters are great for multipitch climbing. You can link more pitches and climb faster!

Cry me a river about the weight. A typical 9.6 mm rope weighs around 60 g/m. So a 70 m rope, being 10 m longer, weighs 600 g. 600 g = 1.33 lbs The average American turd weighs about a pound. So I guess this is only a problem if you have not taken a dump that morning, or ate a particularly big breakfast.


ok...i need to get back to work...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Dec 12, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
I agree. Linking pitches is the way to go. The extra mobility far outweighs the couple extra pounds. If short pitches are unavoidable though, hauling the extra slack sucks... 6 of one,'half dozen of the other. This is where the quiver concept comes in. Use the right tool for the job.
cowpoke

climber
Dec 12, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
"on belay" struggle grunt -fart- Off Belay,, cmon up!

OK, I'm on, but pull in some of that slack!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 12, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
Yep if you ever climbed a nice long 70m pitch you would probably start shopping for an 80. Climbing is fun, belaying is not. Longer pitches = less belaying.
The Chief

climber
Climber from the Land Mongols under the Whites
Dec 12, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
Funny...I also tend to think the extra meters are great for multipitch climbing. You can link more pitches and climb faster!

Yep if you ever climbed a nice long 70m pitch you would probably start shopping for an 80. Climbing is fun, belaying is not. Longer pitches = less belaying.

Bingo!

For that matter, add up the weight of TWO 50's. A single 70 comes up short around three to four pounds. As well as the fact that the second needs to haul that 2nd line up on their ass and clean the pitch as well. Now if that makes sense to you Guy, then by all means, have at it.

Are you having a bad day at the office Guy???

This entire issue is just plain.... "stupid".
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Dec 12, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
Longer pitches also often means more gear.

I enjoy belaying on multipitch. Relax and enjoy the view.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Dec 12, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
In which the crusty old has-beens further flog yet another long-dead horse into oblivion.




Do you guys know what you sound like?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 12, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
This entire issue is just plain.... "stupid".

No, this issue is not 'stupid.' This issue is personal preference. Some people like thicker ropes some people like longer ropes, some prefer doubles, or whatever. I understand Guyman, but this is for sure a 'First World Problem' LOL. Sometimes you need a 70M/2 60s, or w/e to rap a specific route, this is the way it is! Sorry.

It is up to an individual to decide which rope THEY want, and up to them to pick routes they want to do. Up to FA party to decide where to place rap stations or put in bolts for pro, or for belay stations. If one wants to climb their route, it is their problem to get appropriate gear (whatever that is).

I like 70s for linking pitches. I would like to have a thinner 70m for for alpine climbs with short approaches (like Bugaboos or Hulk in CA), thick 70 for fixing 2 pitches on a wall with one rope (if possible), or for owens river gorge/indian creek cragging, but now I have a thick 60m rope/doubles and am just fine with what I have. Want does not mean need.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Dec 12, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
This entire issue is just plain.... "stupid".


Absolutely not.

Obviously one can't lead a 2,000 ft. pitch even with tiny cord.

Many areas and pitches wander more, with more trad pro ( and more weight) required.

Carry the right tool for the right job is great advice, but some folks just can't afford a huge number of tools.

So what is the tool that most effectively covers the greatest number of jobs is the real question.

Please don't treat others like they're stupid.

This entire issue is just plain.... "stupid".

If it was that simple, all of us would just have long ass ropes wouldn't we?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 12, 2012 - 03:58pm PT
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss

Dec 12, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
In which the crusty old has-beens further flog yet another long-dead horse into oblivion.




Do you guys know what you sound like?








uuhhh if you mean those that have been there longer -harder -farther and way before you,, then Yes i know..
The Chief

climber
Climber from the Land Mongols under the Whites
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
If it was that simple, all of us would just have long ass ropes wouldn't we?

If all of us would just do routes that fit our preferences and not expect others to establish lines based on what some wish them to be like. This is not the gym.

In other words, you don't have to get on the routes if they do not fit your mold.


From what I understand, Clyde only used a 100' Goldline for many of his "technical" routes including the East Face and East Butt of Whitney.

Just saying...
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:21pm PT
This entire issue is just plain.... "stupid".


Whenever The Chief and I fully agree, stand up and take notice.

edit: Different tools for different jobs. There's no drama about it. I believe this nail has been hammered previously in this thread though.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
the only problem i have is when older routes are retro-anchored to accommodate longer ropes. TOTAL bs..
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
Good point chief.

But:
This is not the gym.

I didn't say a damn word about the gym, and it's lame to even try that connect the dots.
RP3

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
Amen, Rob
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
Are you having a bad day at the office Guy???

No not at all, but, The Chief, when you greated me with this:

C'mon Guy.... jeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeez!

I sort of figgured you were. ;>)

and Vitality... your right, but I like my 50m doubles at about 9.0mm,
I can lead with them at the same time, thus no one drags a cord behind.


;>) be happy
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
I have tried both 60 and 70 for multi pitch and have found a 60 to be more efficient when all factors are weighed.....no pun intended.
crusher

climber
Santa Monica, CA
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
Shouldn't we just be thankful that someone put up these SPORT routes for us to enjoy? If you don't have a 70 or don't want to buy one, use 2 shorter ropes like Werner said...

Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
No, we should twiddle our thumbs online instead ;).
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