70 meter ropes MANDATORY???? WTF???

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Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Dec 12, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
In which the crusty old has-beens further flog yet another long-dead horse into oblivion.




Do you guys know what you sound like?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 12, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
This entire issue is just plain.... "stupid".

No, this issue is not 'stupid.' This issue is personal preference. Some people like thicker ropes some people like longer ropes, some prefer doubles, or whatever. I understand Guyman, but this is for sure a 'First World Problem' LOL. Sometimes you need a 70M/2 60s, or w/e to rap a specific route, this is the way it is! Sorry.

It is up to an individual to decide which rope THEY want, and up to them to pick routes they want to do. Up to FA party to decide where to place rap stations or put in bolts for pro, or for belay stations. If one wants to climb their route, it is their problem to get appropriate gear (whatever that is).

I like 70s for linking pitches. I would like to have a thinner 70m for for alpine climbs with short approaches (like Bugaboos or Hulk in CA), thick 70 for fixing 2 pitches on a wall with one rope (if possible), or for owens river gorge/indian creek cragging, but now I have a thick 60m rope/doubles and am just fine with what I have. Want does not mean need.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Dec 12, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
This entire issue is just plain.... "stupid".


Absolutely not.

Obviously one can't lead a 2,000 ft. pitch even with tiny cord.

Many areas and pitches wander more, with more trad pro ( and more weight) required.

Carry the right tool for the right job is great advice, but some folks just can't afford a huge number of tools.

So what is the tool that most effectively covers the greatest number of jobs is the real question.

Please don't treat others like they're stupid.

This entire issue is just plain.... "stupid".

If it was that simple, all of us would just have long ass ropes wouldn't we?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:21pm PT
This entire issue is just plain.... "stupid".


Whenever The Chief and I fully agree, stand up and take notice.

edit: Different tools for different jobs. There's no drama about it. I believe this nail has been hammered previously in this thread though.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
Good point chief.

But:
This is not the gym.

I didn't say a damn word about the gym, and it's lame to even try that connect the dots.
RP3

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
Amen, Rob
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
Are you having a bad day at the office Guy???

No not at all, but, The Chief, when you greated me with this:

C'mon Guy.... jeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeez!

I sort of figgured you were. ;>)

and Vitality... your right, but I like my 50m doubles at about 9.0mm,
I can lead with them at the same time, thus no one drags a cord behind.


;>) be happy
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
I have tried both 60 and 70 for multi pitch and have found a 60 to be more efficient when all factors are weighed.....no pun intended.
crusher

climber
Santa Monica, CA
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
Shouldn't we just be thankful that someone put up these SPORT routes for us to enjoy? If you don't have a 70 or don't want to buy one, use 2 shorter ropes like Werner said...

Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
No, we should twiddle our thumbs online instead ;).
crusher

climber
Santa Monica, CA
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
Ha ha. We must all be bored today to argue about something like this...funny.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
Having the second trail a cord is the worst of all possible options, a recipe for an epic anyplace where the wind blows...

I like doing traditional multipitch with 8.5x60M doubles. 200 ft pitches seem like plenty, 200 ft raps are great.

Seems like there's two different arguments here for the 70. On the one hand there is the business of linking or doing longer pitches. Yeah I saw Mat Samet and Mike Reardon do Atlantis (a 4 pitch 5.11 Needles classic) in two pitches with a 70. Extra drag etc was not a factor for them since they put in about two pieces on each pitch. I don't tend to climb like that, and the regular belays on that route are fine with me. And with my doubles if it rains I am off way faster than with one 70.

On the other hand there is the business of setting up routes with a bunch of 35M pitches to rap with a 70. In some cases this might make sense as dictated by the features of the route but in a lot of cases this just makes a four pitch climb into seven or so.

My .02 is that if you want to set up your sport climbs for long ropes more power to you. Think twice about the multipitch though, in a lot of cases you're actually making artificially short pitches to avoid the need of two ropes (assuming the best descent is by rappel.)
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:57pm PT
the point being missed:
the whole rope this or that is a marketing decoy to get you to buy more and more expensive ropes. You can get an excellent 9.8 60m rope for just under $100. I spent $85 on my last one a month ago. It will be sturdy and wear well. You can get a bicolor double dry 9.8 70m for $250-$290, you will get much less time on it before it wears. I've stopped buying them.

Edit: +1 for doubles
TFSTFU

Trad climber
Utah
Dec 12, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
85 bucks? What did u get a used static that was found on the "real nose"?
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Dec 12, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
nope, brand new spanky Eldrid.. do your research, bud and save a few bucks
Enthusiast

Sport climber
Port Townsend WA
Dec 12, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
One person mentions sport climbing and this becomes a total bitch fest.
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Dec 12, 2012 - 05:50pm PT
I'm with Donini and Riley on this one. F*#k the 70's.




-JR
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Dec 12, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
I climbed the Polish route on the hulk in 3 pitches with no drag thanks to my 80M rope. 80 meters brings you exactly to perfect belay ledges each time. It was effing awesome.

I say bring on the nano-engineered dental floss- 300M of feather weight line that self-untangles, tells you how much rope is left in a sexy voice, and advises you when to runner a piece. I'm going to set all sorts of routes with it, and all of you are going to get panty-twisted all over again.
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Dec 12, 2012 - 06:04pm PT
300m superlightweight? I'm totally into the 250m superlight though, now I have to buy a new 300m?



-JR
Captain...or Skully

climber
Dec 12, 2012 - 06:04pm PT

Sport climbing is lame, anyway. Non issue.
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