70 meter ropes MANDATORY???? WTF???

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Messages 81 - 100 of total 124 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
cowpoke

climber
Dec 12, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
"on belay" struggle grunt -fart- Off Belay,, cmon up!

OK, I'm on, but pull in some of that slack!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 12, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
Yep if you ever climbed a nice long 70m pitch you would probably start shopping for an 80. Climbing is fun, belaying is not. Longer pitches = less belaying.
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Dec 12, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
Longer pitches also often means more gear.

I enjoy belaying on multipitch. Relax and enjoy the view.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Dec 12, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
In which the crusty old has-beens further flog yet another long-dead horse into oblivion.




Do you guys know what you sound like?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 12, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
This entire issue is just plain.... "stupid".

No, this issue is not 'stupid.' This issue is personal preference. Some people like thicker ropes some people like longer ropes, some prefer doubles, or whatever. I understand Guyman, but this is for sure a 'First World Problem' LOL. Sometimes you need a 70M/2 60s, or w/e to rap a specific route, this is the way it is! Sorry.

It is up to an individual to decide which rope THEY want, and up to them to pick routes they want to do. Up to FA party to decide where to place rap stations or put in bolts for pro, or for belay stations. If one wants to climb their route, it is their problem to get appropriate gear (whatever that is).

I like 70s for linking pitches. I would like to have a thinner 70m for for alpine climbs with short approaches (like Bugaboos or Hulk in CA), thick 70 for fixing 2 pitches on a wall with one rope (if possible), or for owens river gorge/indian creek cragging, but now I have a thick 60m rope/doubles and am just fine with what I have. Want does not mean need.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Dec 12, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
This entire issue is just plain.... "stupid".


Absolutely not.

Obviously one can't lead a 2,000 ft. pitch even with tiny cord.

Many areas and pitches wander more, with more trad pro ( and more weight) required.

Carry the right tool for the right job is great advice, but some folks just can't afford a huge number of tools.

So what is the tool that most effectively covers the greatest number of jobs is the real question.

Please don't treat others like they're stupid.

This entire issue is just plain.... "stupid".

If it was that simple, all of us would just have long ass ropes wouldn't we?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 12, 2012 - 03:58pm PT
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss

Dec 12, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
In which the crusty old has-beens further flog yet another long-dead horse into oblivion.




Do you guys know what you sound like?








uuhhh if you mean those that have been there longer -harder -farther and way before you,, then Yes i know..
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:21pm PT
This entire issue is just plain.... "stupid".


Whenever The Chief and I fully agree, stand up and take notice.

edit: Different tools for different jobs. There's no drama about it. I believe this nail has been hammered previously in this thread though.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
the only problem i have is when older routes are retro-anchored to accommodate longer ropes. TOTAL bs..
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
Good point chief.

But:
This is not the gym.

I didn't say a damn word about the gym, and it's lame to even try that connect the dots.
RP3

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
Amen, Rob
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
Are you having a bad day at the office Guy???

No not at all, but, The Chief, when you greated me with this:

C'mon Guy.... jeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeez!

I sort of figgured you were. ;>)

and Vitality... your right, but I like my 50m doubles at about 9.0mm,
I can lead with them at the same time, thus no one drags a cord behind.


;>) be happy
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
I have tried both 60 and 70 for multi pitch and have found a 60 to be more efficient when all factors are weighed.....no pun intended.
crusher

climber
Santa Monica, CA
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
Shouldn't we just be thankful that someone put up these SPORT routes for us to enjoy? If you don't have a 70 or don't want to buy one, use 2 shorter ropes like Werner said...

Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
No, we should twiddle our thumbs online instead ;).
crusher

climber
Santa Monica, CA
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
Ha ha. We must all be bored today to argue about something like this...funny.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
Having the second trail a cord is the worst of all possible options, a recipe for an epic anyplace where the wind blows...

I like doing traditional multipitch with 8.5x60M doubles. 200 ft pitches seem like plenty, 200 ft raps are great.

Seems like there's two different arguments here for the 70. On the one hand there is the business of linking or doing longer pitches. Yeah I saw Mat Samet and Mike Reardon do Atlantis (a 4 pitch 5.11 Needles classic) in two pitches with a 70. Extra drag etc was not a factor for them since they put in about two pieces on each pitch. I don't tend to climb like that, and the regular belays on that route are fine with me. And with my doubles if it rains I am off way faster than with one 70.

On the other hand there is the business of setting up routes with a bunch of 35M pitches to rap with a 70. In some cases this might make sense as dictated by the features of the route but in a lot of cases this just makes a four pitch climb into seven or so.

My .02 is that if you want to set up your sport climbs for long ropes more power to you. Think twice about the multipitch though, in a lot of cases you're actually making artificially short pitches to avoid the need of two ropes (assuming the best descent is by rappel.)
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:57pm PT
the point being missed:
the whole rope this or that is a marketing decoy to get you to buy more and more expensive ropes. You can get an excellent 9.8 60m rope for just under $100. I spent $85 on my last one a month ago. It will be sturdy and wear well. You can get a bicolor double dry 9.8 70m for $250-$290, you will get much less time on it before it wears. I've stopped buying them.

Edit: +1 for doubles
TFSTFU

Trad climber
Utah
Dec 12, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
85 bucks? What did u get a used static that was found on the "real nose"?
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Dec 12, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
nope, brand new spanky Eldrid.. do your research, bud and save a few bucks
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