70 meter ropes MANDATORY???? WTF???

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guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 10, 2012 - 06:57pm PT
A friend of mine just returned from the east side and he reported that there are new very cool sport climbs up in Pine Creek and elsewise.

One thing though…. All these new climbs are about 35 meters from the anchor to the dirt.

So if this is true, I need to start using a freaking 70 meter rope, I hate those things.

What is with you all?????

Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Dec 10, 2012 - 07:00pm PT
Get with the times... the standards change.

edit: in some place the 80m rope is becoming a standard
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Dec 10, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
Snooze.
Hawkeye

climber
State of Mine
Dec 10, 2012 - 07:10pm PT
life is all about choices. lets say the first ascent party is climbin and at 30m the climb starts to get really good. should they do two pitches cuz your a whiner? or maybe they ought to keep on climbin? or perhaps they might expect that the next climbers can either have a longer rope or an additional rope so they can get their sorry ass off in one piece? what do you think?

so 70m ropes are not mandatory but if you are going to climb more than one rope length then perhaps a second rope is. if thats too inconvenient for you then can i suggest bowling?
WBraun

climber
Dec 10, 2012 - 07:10pm PT
I need to start using a freaking 70 meter rope,

Why?

Just pull the lead line up and out off all the draws and then drop it back to the ground.

Tie on your second rope and then lower off.

It will require 2 ropes but so what.

Now you don't need to buy a 70 meter rope.

Not unless you're just complaining for complaining sakes?
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
Dec 10, 2012 - 07:12pm PT
Ropes are getting thinner, so a new 70 probably weighs about similar as a couple years old 60. If you are local to an area putting up longer routes, or travel enough, it makes sense to at least have a 70 so you aren't hosed when you need it.

But I know I wasn't happy when a climbing partner showed up to the Gunks a couple years ago with their new 70. I was like "I may be seconding, but you can coil your own new toy!"

High Fructose Corn Spirit

Gym climber
-A race of corn eaters
Dec 10, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
Werner, in the afterlife...

you can be my second any day. I can tell, you've got a good brain when it comes to rope savvy.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Dec 10, 2012 - 07:24pm PT
ropes are for sailors
Evel

Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
Dec 10, 2012 - 07:42pm PT
Last summer my partner broke out his new 100 meter line. That's a lotta rope!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 10, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
Just bring a bunch of bail biners
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
so 70m ropes are not mandatory but if you are going to climb more than one rope length then perhaps a second rope is. if thats too inconvenient for you then can i suggest bowling?


Hawkeye..... I am pretty good at bowling, but I think it is lame.

I know just what to do when climbing any climb, BUT after reading about the poor girl who fell a long way at the ORG, glad she lived to tell the tale. I am struck by the total lack of thought of the new breed who are putting in SPORT CLIMBS.

Is this some new way to get more business into Inyo, Mono County emergency rooms and keep the SAR folks busy?

Why?

Just pull the lead line up and out off all the draws and then drop it back to the ground.

Tie on your second rope and then lower off.

It will require 2 ropes but so what.

Now you don't need to buy a 70 meter rope.

Not unless you're just complaining for complaining sakes?

No, Herr Braun, not complaining just saying...

So when you need to go climb where you have no knowlege of the climbs... adventure trad.. and you might need to rap off, that single 70 m rope will not do squat, so you suposed to carry 2 70 meter anchors?


I am just saying,.... and anyway how do you determine just where to put the anchors at? The crux is usuly above the anchors. (attempt at funny)


khanom

Trad climber
Greeley Hill
Dec 10, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
Cause another 30 feet of rope is just so hard to coil...
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Dec 10, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
Who the hell cares about sport climbing?
herm

Trad climber
Bishop
Dec 10, 2012 - 08:05pm PT
Pine Creek is not a climbing gym.
Rolfr

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Dec 10, 2012 - 08:05pm PT
Happie girl, the only duodess rope I could find at the co-op was a 70meter, does that mean you won't climb with me at JT this winter?
I'm coming down from the Great White North in late Jan, will you be in JT?
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2012 - 08:06pm PT
Cause another 30 feet of rope is just so hard to coil...

Kannonnn... if you have ever humped your rack and stuff a long way uphill you would not make such a dumb statement.
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 10, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
Yet another benefit of habitually climbing with two skinnier ropes. No need for belayer to pay attention to the halfway point!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2012 - 08:09pm PT

Pine Creek is not a climbing gym.

herm.... you couda fooled me.



Yet another benefit of habitually climbing with two skinnier ropes. No need for belayer to pay attention to the halfway point!]

I like using 2 skinny cords, but now I need to buy one of those heavy one-demential, single use sport-climbing rope.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 10, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
Get with the times... the standards change.

70M ropes are not a standard by any means. 99% of the time it just means buying, hauling around, untangling and otherwise dealing with an extra 30+ feet of rope. That said,

Those Bishop boys (and girls) are doing some nice work in Pine Creek. On my recent visit I did several good relatively new climbs there. Two really stick in my memory for quality, Three Hour Arete (the crux is a very exposed but well protected boulder problem in the sky,) and the John Fisher Memorial. The Arete is four pitches and the JFM is as I recall 7 or 8, all set up to rap with a 70. JFM has lots of variety, the tips crack is choice.

We did the arete with my 8.5x60 doubles 'cause we had no 70. It worked but was kind of a pia. I did JFM with a partner who had a 70 which worked fine.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
So they have placed SHORT RAP STATIONS?

Great... more bolts and chains to muck up the place.
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