locker
Gym climber
DUH!!!...
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Oct 13, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
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and for the record...
"Yer GONNA die!!!"...
;-)
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Ol' Skool
Trad climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Oct 13, 2012 - 04:06pm PT
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While we're on subjects ergonomic, don't forget to use shoulder slings on the wrong side while doing liebacks, etc- you'll get a better pump out of the deal.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Oct 13, 2012 - 05:03pm PT
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Gates out, Bill Gates is the antichrist.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Oct 14, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Oct 14, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
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The only time a "dropping factor" should weigh in is if you're a doofus.
Gates in, I maintain, is the simplest route from sketched to clipped.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Oct 14, 2012 - 10:29pm PT
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Was really tempted to skip, but I can't help myself.
If you want to get whatever you have clipped to that biner attached to the rock and clipped into your rope as efficiently as possible, put the gate in. Gate in is faster to rack, too.
Oh, you're asking about racking for sport climbing. Yeah, OK. If you were climbing and placing pro, you'd want the gate out and down if you had more than one piece on the biner so that you could get it off the biner ASAP and with the least clusterf#%k, but then clusterf#%k is really "in" these days.
As for gear slings being impractical and useless - only if you never climb any cracks bigger than your fist or any corners that require "body English" to stay on. But, then, climbing cracks and placing pro are just leftover relics of a bygone era.
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Degaine
climber
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Oct 15, 2012 - 12:05am PT
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Hi RyanD,
I have the answer (seriously).
Those who rack gates out use their thumb to unclip the biner on the gear loop, those who rack gates in use their forefinger to unclip.
It's as simple as that and probably so unconscious for most that they don't realize it.
But no need to take my word for it, just try it and you'll see.
Cheers.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2012 - 12:32am PT
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Some good replies and logic by Rgold, skully, mark, & Degaine. Thanks, if it ever stops raining I'll check it out. With cams or nuts racking gates out seems like it would be easier for the gear to slip off since u kind of turn it upside down with your thumb when taking it off the gear loop.
Not meaning to offend anyone who uses gear slings. Around here off- widths are not often encountered. I guess if I climbed somewhere with more of that style my opinion might be different.
It seems like for sport routes gates out could be quicker but if your already sport climbing you might as well just hang the draws with a stick clip :-) Haha how many ppl who use gear slings also use stick clips??
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Oct 15, 2012 - 06:23am PT
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IMO,
Free climbing with one or two pieces per biner... gates in, opening high.
Aid climbing... gates out, opening low.
YMMV.
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Jeremy Ross
Gym climber
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Oct 15, 2012 - 06:51am PT
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The only true ethical debate in climbing.
Gate in.
-JR
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locker
Gym climber
DUH!!!...
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Oct 15, 2012 - 07:29am PT
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"The Nose has only ever been freed Gates Out"...
Not to be a dick...
but...
so what!!!...
;-)
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Hannes
climber
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Oct 15, 2012 - 07:29am PT
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I prefer gates in as I find it to be less faff to get the gear off the harness. If I put something back mid route it tends to be with gates out as it is easier to clip on
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Jstod
Trad climber
North Vancouver
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Oct 15, 2012 - 07:38am PT
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Not to be a dick...
but...
so what!!!...
… Well it's obviously VERY important... :)
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Oct 15, 2012 - 08:00am PT
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I have a certain partner who(when we swap leads)just grabs the sh#t and throws it on his harness any which way.No thought to it,doesn't care,"Whatever,just give me the gear" type guy.He's climbed all over the globe and has a lot of impressive ticks under his belt.He's still above ground and still climbs this way.It's actually quite funny to watch('til someone loses an eye). :-0
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Oct 15, 2012 - 10:30am PT
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Inny or outty.
I'm surprised we don't yet have close-up pics....
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