Gates in or gates out?? Racking up inquiry.

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Messages 61 - 77 of total 77 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
locker

Gym climber
DUH!!!...
Oct 13, 2012 - 04:50pm PT


and for the record...















































"Yer GONNA die!!!"...

;-)

Ol' Skool

Trad climber
Oakhurst, CA
Oct 13, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
While we're on subjects ergonomic, don't forget to use shoulder slings on the wrong side while doing liebacks, etc- you'll get a better pump out of the deal.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Oct 13, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
Gates out, Bill Gates is the antichrist.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Oct 14, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
Gates out on belt. Gates in on the rack.
Gates out on belt. Gates in on the rack.
Credit: Spider Savage
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 14, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
The only time a "dropping factor" should weigh in is if you're a doofus.
Gates in, I maintain, is the simplest route from sketched to clipped.
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Oct 15, 2012 - 01:29am PT
Was really tempted to skip, but I can't help myself.

If you want to get whatever you have clipped to that biner attached to the rock and clipped into your rope as efficiently as possible, put the gate in. Gate in is faster to rack, too.

Oh, you're asking about racking for sport climbing. Yeah, OK. If you were climbing and placing pro, you'd want the gate out and down if you had more than one piece on the biner so that you could get it off the biner ASAP and with the least clusterf#%k, but then clusterf#%k is really "in" these days.

As for gear slings being impractical and useless - only if you never climb any cracks bigger than your fist or any corners that require "body English" to stay on. But, then, climbing cracks and placing pro are just leftover relics of a bygone era.

Mark Chapman jammin'
Mark Chapman jammin'
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 15, 2012 - 01:32am PT
Sweet.
Degaine

climber
Oct 15, 2012 - 03:05am PT
Hi RyanD,

I have the answer (seriously).

Those who rack gates out use their thumb to unclip the biner on the gear loop, those who rack gates in use their forefinger to unclip.

It's as simple as that and probably so unconscious for most that they don't realize it.

But no need to take my word for it, just try it and you'll see.

Cheers.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2012 - 03:32am PT
Some good replies and logic by Rgold, skully, mark, & Degaine. Thanks, if it ever stops raining I'll check it out. With cams or nuts racking gates out seems like it would be easier for the gear to slip off since u kind of turn it upside down with your thumb when taking it off the gear loop.

Not meaning to offend anyone who uses gear slings. Around here off- widths are not often encountered. I guess if I climbed somewhere with more of that style my opinion might be different.

It seems like for sport routes gates out could be quicker but if your already sport climbing you might as well just hang the draws with a stick clip :-) Haha how many ppl who use gear slings also use stick clips??
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Oct 15, 2012 - 09:23am PT
IMO,

Free climbing with one or two pieces per biner... gates in, opening high.

Aid climbing... gates out, opening low.

YMMV.
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Oct 15, 2012 - 09:51am PT
The only true ethical debate in climbing.

Gate in.



-JR
Jstod

Trad climber
North Vancouver
Oct 15, 2012 - 10:23am PT
This appears to have been discussed elsewhere on the interweb before:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=2396329;page=2;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

The Nose has only ever been freed Gates Out ;)
locker

Gym climber
DUH!!!...
Oct 15, 2012 - 10:29am PT


"The Nose has only ever been freed Gates Out"...



Not to be a dick...

but...

so what!!!...


;-)

Hannes

climber
Oct 15, 2012 - 10:29am PT
I prefer gates in as I find it to be less faff to get the gear off the harness. If I put something back mid route it tends to be with gates out as it is easier to clip on
Jstod

Trad climber
North Vancouver
Oct 15, 2012 - 10:38am PT
Not to be a dick...

but...

so what!!!...

Well it's obviously VERY important... :)
Capt.

climber
some eastside hovel
Oct 15, 2012 - 11:00am PT
I have a certain partner who(when we swap leads)just grabs the sh#t and throws it on his harness any which way.No thought to it,doesn't care,"Whatever,just give me the gear" type guy.He's climbed all over the globe and has a lot of impressive ticks under his belt.He's still above ground and still climbs this way.It's actually quite funny to watch('til someone loses an eye). :-0
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Oct 15, 2012 - 01:30pm PT
Inny or outty.


I'm surprised we don't yet have close-up pics....
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