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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Oct 13, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
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Rackalicious.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
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Point taken locker, I'll stick to TRs, squamish threads, sarcastic comments, & making fun of Farook in the future. Oh & maybe I should get onside with one of your fine American political parties, any recommends?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
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But seriously tho..................
What way does sharma face his gates??
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Oct 13, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
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Towards Mecca.
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BruceAnderson
Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
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Oct 13, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
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Always gates out!!!
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Oct 13, 2012 - 03:10pm PT
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You're hopeless, Locker
Have you ever even tried the other way?
If you try racking gates out, I'll use my left hand . . .
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Oct 13, 2012 - 04:02pm PT
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I've run through an entire Kama Sutra of gate positions and gear locations. Of course, as many have pointed out, what floats yer boat is the answer for you. My answers:
1. I carry cams and nuts on a sling. Over the left shoulder, because that's how we racked pitons when your hammer and hammer sling were on the right. It worked then, it still works now even without a hammer. Quickdraws and free biners go on the right front harness loop, belay device and other belay stuff on the right rear harness loop. I generally keep the left rear harness loop free, because I like to stuff a windbreaker/rain jacket/ light insulated jacket through that. In the summer (I'm a big sweater), a small towel often goes back there.
2. "Wrist twist" Part 1: On the front harness loops, gate-in is less awkward for the hand position, especially when you have to reach across to a loop on the opposite side from your hand. But on the rear loops, the opposite is true. So I clip gate-in in front and gate-out in back.
3. "Wrist twist" Part 2: Gate-out is, in my opinion, a bad option for a biner laden with wired nuts. If you don't manage to trap all the nuts behind the unclipping hand, then the unclipping motion, which inverts the biner, will dump everything else. If you have but a single cam on the biner, then the gate orientation is less critical because you are likely, if not guaranteed, to trap the cam during the unclipping process.
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Slinky00
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Oct 13, 2012 - 04:28pm PT
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I like to face the gates out because I feel its easier use my thumb to open the gate. I also like that the gear sits cleaner with the spine against your body.
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Oct 13, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
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why not split your rack half of each and see which one you like best ?
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Ol' Skool
Trad climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Oct 13, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
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While we're on subjects ergonomic, don't forget to use shoulder slings on the wrong side while doing liebacks, etc- you'll get a better pump out of the deal.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Oct 13, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
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Gates out, Bill Gates is the antichrist.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Oct 14, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Oct 14, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
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The only time a "dropping factor" should weigh in is if you're a doofus.
Gates in, I maintain, is the simplest route from sketched to clipped.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Oct 15, 2012 - 01:29am PT
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Was really tempted to skip, but I can't help myself.
If you want to get whatever you have clipped to that biner attached to the rock and clipped into your rope as efficiently as possible, put the gate in. Gate in is faster to rack, too.
Oh, you're asking about racking for sport climbing. Yeah, OK. If you were climbing and placing pro, you'd want the gate out and down if you had more than one piece on the biner so that you could get it off the biner ASAP and with the least clusterf#%k, but then clusterf#%k is really "in" these days.
As for gear slings being impractical and useless - only if you never climb any cracks bigger than your fist or any corners that require "body English" to stay on. But, then, climbing cracks and placing pro are just leftover relics of a bygone era.
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Degaine
climber
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Oct 15, 2012 - 03:05am PT
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Hi RyanD,
I have the answer (seriously).
Those who rack gates out use their thumb to unclip the biner on the gear loop, those who rack gates in use their forefinger to unclip.
It's as simple as that and probably so unconscious for most that they don't realize it.
But no need to take my word for it, just try it and you'll see.
Cheers.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2012 - 03:32am PT
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Some good replies and logic by Rgold, skully, mark, & Degaine. Thanks, if it ever stops raining I'll check it out. With cams or nuts racking gates out seems like it would be easier for the gear to slip off since u kind of turn it upside down with your thumb when taking it off the gear loop.
Not meaning to offend anyone who uses gear slings. Around here off- widths are not often encountered. I guess if I climbed somewhere with more of that style my opinion might be different.
It seems like for sport routes gates out could be quicker but if your already sport climbing you might as well just hang the draws with a stick clip :-) Haha how many ppl who use gear slings also use stick clips??
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Oct 15, 2012 - 09:23am PT
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IMO,
Free climbing with one or two pieces per biner... gates in, opening high.
Aid climbing... gates out, opening low.
YMMV.
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Hannes
climber
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Oct 15, 2012 - 10:29am PT
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I prefer gates in as I find it to be less faff to get the gear off the harness. If I put something back mid route it tends to be with gates out as it is easier to clip on
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