Gates in or gates out?? Racking up inquiry.

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 67 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Reeotch

Trad climber
4 Corners Area
Oct 13, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
Locker! This could mean the difference between a send and a fail.

Of course it matters, especially on the Grit!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 13, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
How a real man racks:

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
Haha ok now were getting somewhere. Seems like more ppl have a reason why to rack gates out than in. That is what i was wondering & that is why i posted it on a Climbing forum where i figured a few climbers might have pondered the same. A few ppl had some good logic as to the question, id like to know the benefit to gates in besides the alleged "dropping" factor. I ask because i'm always looking for ways to be more efficient on the rock & am interested in what others do & why they do it.


I like how many get all antsy & aggro when someone wants an opinion about Climbing on here. Im not asking for online belay directions or how to rappel, just looking for insights that might help me be better or learn something new- which I have .

If u think it's a noob ? your probably sitting at your computer wearing a gear sling over each shoulder with a bunch of #12 hexes clanging around with gates facing every which way & your wiener in your left hand.


Edit-^^^ oops not making fun of your hexes Reilly haha cool photo!
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Oct 13, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
Rackalicious.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#267806
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
Point taken locker, I'll stick to TRs, squamish threads, sarcastic comments, & making fun of Farook in the future. Oh & maybe I should get onside with one of your fine American political parties, any recommends?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
But seriously tho..................




























What way does sharma face his gates??
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Oct 13, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
Towards Mecca.
BruceAnderson

Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
Oct 13, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
Always gates out!!!
Reeotch

Trad climber
4 Corners Area
Oct 13, 2012 - 03:10pm PT
You're hopeless, Locker

Have you ever even tried the other way?

If you try racking gates out, I'll use my left hand . . .
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Oct 13, 2012 - 04:02pm PT
I've run through an entire Kama Sutra of gate positions and gear locations. Of course, as many have pointed out, what floats yer boat is the answer for you. My answers:

1. I carry cams and nuts on a sling. Over the left shoulder, because that's how we racked pitons when your hammer and hammer sling were on the right. It worked then, it still works now even without a hammer. Quickdraws and free biners go on the right front harness loop, belay device and other belay stuff on the right rear harness loop. I generally keep the left rear harness loop free, because I like to stuff a windbreaker/rain jacket/ light insulated jacket through that. In the summer (I'm a big sweater), a small towel often goes back there.

2. "Wrist twist" Part 1: On the front harness loops, gate-in is less awkward for the hand position, especially when you have to reach across to a loop on the opposite side from your hand. But on the rear loops, the opposite is true. So I clip gate-in in front and gate-out in back.

3. "Wrist twist" Part 2: Gate-out is, in my opinion, a bad option for a biner laden with wired nuts. If you don't manage to trap all the nuts behind the unclipping hand, then the unclipping motion, which inverts the biner, will dump everything else. If you have but a single cam on the biner, then the gate orientation is less critical because you are likely, if not guaranteed, to trap the cam during the unclipping process.
Slinky00

Trad climber
Carson City, NV
Oct 13, 2012 - 04:28pm PT
I like to face the gates out because I feel its easier use my thumb to open the gate. I also like that the gear sits cleaner with the spine against your body.
paganmonkeyboy

climber
mars...it's near nevada...
Oct 13, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
why not split your rack half of each and see which one you like best ?
Ol' Skool

Trad climber
Oakhurst, CA
Oct 13, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
While we're on subjects ergonomic, don't forget to use shoulder slings on the wrong side while doing liebacks, etc- you'll get a better pump out of the deal.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Oct 13, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
Gates out, Bill Gates is the antichrist.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Oct 14, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
Gates out on belt. Gates in on the rack.
Gates out on belt. Gates in on the rack.
Credit: Spider Savage
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 14, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
The only time a "dropping factor" should weigh in is if you're a doofus.
Gates in, I maintain, is the simplest route from sketched to clipped.
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Oct 15, 2012 - 01:29am PT
Was really tempted to skip, but I can't help myself.

If you want to get whatever you have clipped to that biner attached to the rock and clipped into your rope as efficiently as possible, put the gate in. Gate in is faster to rack, too.

Oh, you're asking about racking for sport climbing. Yeah, OK. If you were climbing and placing pro, you'd want the gate out and down if you had more than one piece on the biner so that you could get it off the biner ASAP and with the least clusterf#%k, but then clusterf#%k is really "in" these days.

As for gear slings being impractical and useless - only if you never climb any cracks bigger than your fist or any corners that require "body English" to stay on. But, then, climbing cracks and placing pro are just leftover relics of a bygone era.

Mark Chapman jammin'
Mark Chapman jammin'
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 15, 2012 - 01:32am PT
Sweet.
Degaine

climber
Oct 15, 2012 - 03:05am PT
Hi RyanD,

I have the answer (seriously).

Those who rack gates out use their thumb to unclip the biner on the gear loop, those who rack gates in use their forefinger to unclip.

It's as simple as that and probably so unconscious for most that they don't realize it.

But no need to take my word for it, just try it and you'll see.

Cheers.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2012 - 03:32am PT
Some good replies and logic by Rgold, skully, mark, & Degaine. Thanks, if it ever stops raining I'll check it out. With cams or nuts racking gates out seems like it would be easier for the gear to slip off since u kind of turn it upside down with your thumb when taking it off the gear loop.

Not meaning to offend anyone who uses gear slings. Around here off- widths are not often encountered. I guess if I climbed somewhere with more of that style my opinion might be different.

It seems like for sport routes gates out could be quicker but if your already sport climbing you might as well just hang the draws with a stick clip :-) Haha how many ppl who use gear slings also use stick clips??
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