Gates in or gates out?? Racking up inquiry.


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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 12:01am PT
Haha ok ur right apogee sorry I was trolling a bit too hard there!

Edit- mtnmum has a reason! Yes, thank you. I thought about the twisting of the wrist as a possible reason. Still gonna keep mine facing in.

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
Oct 13, 2012 - 12:07am PT
Try them out and you will never go back. Just sayin.

Midvale School for the Gifted
Oct 13, 2012 - 12:18am PT
Alternating. Best of both worlds and keeps the short-term memory sharp.

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
Oct 13, 2012 - 12:27am PT
All my gates in except the biners I rack my nuts on.

Those hurt my nuts either way.

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Oct 13, 2012 - 12:44am PT
Munge covered it. Gates in, gear sling on the left shoulder....
the Fet

Oct 13, 2012 - 01:11am PT
My gates always face out. It saves a major wrist twist and is a much more fluid gear placement and removal.

Me too.

I rack all on my harness when it's hot or I don't need a lot of gear. All on a gear sling when there's chimneys. Often slings / biners on harness and the rack on a gear sling when swapping leads.


Oct 13, 2012 - 01:29am PT
The bigger existential question is whether to rack on one's harness, or like real men to rack on a gear sling. Should be good for a couple hundred posts easy. Whether to have the carabiners face in or out is a trifle compared to this question.

When you have all that shyte on your harness what do you do when you have to move into an offwidth or a chimney? That would be interesting to see.

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Oct 13, 2012 - 02:11am PT
I second mtnmun

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Oct 13, 2012 - 02:25am PT
All gear should be racked on locking 'biners that are fully locked. The gear sling should be long enough so the gear hangs just out of reach.

That's how you learn to run it out.

Trad climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Oct 13, 2012 - 03:45am PT
Harness loops only for quick draws and my personal stuff, lockers, nut tool, cord for an ascender knot, rapp ring.


Sling over shoulder holding cams and nuts so I can swing them behind my back and out of the way when I need to. I keep em racked like that and just throw them in the bag when i'm done. Single or multipitch. Makes transfers easier when you're swinging leads too.

The qd's, I clip them gates out, out of habit. I think it has to do with the fact that my first harness had soft gear loops that didn't stand out and you had to clip from below. Otherwise you'd press the loop into your waist and had to fiddle around using your thumbs.. And it looks sexier!

Trad climber
Oct 13, 2012 - 09:36am PT
Interesting question. I start out gates in, but I find that if I fiddle with gear, and put it back on my harness for a different piece, it usually ends up gate out when I put it back.

I've tried racking on my harness and just don't like it.

For me quick draws, personal gear, and small nuts are on the harness, gates in. The rest is on a sling gates in.


fist clamp
Oct 13, 2012 - 09:59am PT
gates in. few movements to get the gear off harness. In 22 yrs of climbing never had anything fall off my harness.

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Oct 13, 2012 - 10:05am PT
for people who use gear slings, how do you deal with the distraction of your gear swinging around when you free climb. and by the way i clip gates out because your thumb can clip the gate faster.

Oct 13, 2012 - 10:27am PT
i'll find myself naturally clipping gear into the harness gates in, but i prefer unclipping from the harness if they're gates out, so it really depends on the situation.

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 13, 2012 - 10:41am PT
Gates in, sling over left shoulder, big in back small to the front.Nuts to front cams in back. Iron in front of all, camhooks in front of Iron. Ice screws in front also. Nuts Iron screws and hooks gate out since biner caries multiples. Free biners and draws between nuts and cams.

Filterless cigarettes, and lighter go in chalkbag. Chalk optional

Important!.. keyhole biners on cams!

Have been known to rack a specific cam that I am going to need on my shirt collar.

Briefs or commando

to the left



Any other questions?

Trad climber
4 Corners Area
Oct 13, 2012 - 10:56am PT
I always rack the gates out, because the gear sits more flush to your body with the flat spine of the carabiner in.

Also, look at the position you must contort you wrist into when unclipping a biner from your harness that has the gate facing in. I'm all about ergonomics, and unclipping biners with the gate facing out is just a more natural motion.

It makes much less difference on a gear sling.

Oct 13, 2012 - 11:17am PT
Racking gates in is the result of creeping socialism.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Oct 13, 2012 - 12:06pm PT
If you have to ask, I recommend cross-stitch or cooking for a hobby.

lawrence kansas
Oct 13, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
maybe someone can figure it on the mountain project forum. always some nerds over there who can't agree how to fit everything in the world on their harness. yawn.

Trad climber
4 Corners Area
Oct 13, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
I rack my wiener to the right, but that's because I always use my right hand . . .
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