Bolt replacement Mt. Starr King

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 70 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 14, 2012 - 03:26am PT
Kevin,

Thanks for the further story on Walkabout - sounds like one of those great onsight adventures that makes for great memories!
Here is an overlay guess - the photo shows many of the features, like the crack system / finger crack and I guessed the belays and bolt locations from your description.
Dome Baez - Walkabout overlay guess [edited twice]
Dome Baez - Walkabout overlay guess [edited twice]
Credit: Clint Cummins / Kevin Worrall
Dome Baez - Walkabout - pitches 2-4 detail [edited twice]
Dome Baez - Walkabout - pitches 2-4 detail [edited twice]
Credit: Clint Cummins / Kevin Worrall
Got any edits for this overlay? I'll like to make something more accurate than my guess! :-)
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 14, 2012 - 03:29am PT
Nate,
Here's a photo of Dome Baez - East Face which shows Tom's 5.9 corner system.
Dome Baez - East Face, showing 5.9 route in right facing corners, FA b...
Dome Baez - East Face, showing 5.9 route in right facing corners, FA by Tom Addison and Scott Pond
Credit: Clint Cummins
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Sep 14, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
Yo Clint,

You do get around, don't ya!

Your line in the photos is almost perfect, the bolts are a tad off. The two offroute bolts would be a bit higher, leading up and right from the shaded roof just below your first onroute bolt. The second onroute bolt would be a bit lower than the ledge it appers to be sitting on. Basically it's right on.

The traverse under the roof pitch up high ends on a classic ledge formed by an obvious step on the edge of the flake just after the the roof's end.

The sixth pitch scrambles the obvious ramp, then straight up the smooth easy slab to the base of the headwall. PItch seven surmounts it by an obvious weakness.

I mistakenly referred to the thin crack pitch as the fourth upthread, it's really the third, making the roof the fifth. So...

Pitch 1 : 5.6
PItch 2 : 5.11a
Pitch 3 : 5.9
Pitch 4 : 5.10a
Pitch 5 : 5.10a
Pitch 6 : 5.0
Pitch 7 : 5.4

As best I recall. Thanks for the excellent photos, they helped me remember well.

I have slides of the climb, if I ever get a scanner, I'll post up.
ruppell

climber
Sep 14, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
Was in there about three weeks ago and did a variation of West Face route. After the second pitch I headed out right to a small left facing corner. There was an old piton here that I removed BY HAND. It had CMI stamped on it if any one has any idea. Left a #4 DMM Peanut in it's place. Gear karma you know. Any way the route from there heads straight up but never rejoins West Face. 5.8+R would seems about right. Super fun dome and way closer of an approach than I thought. As far as water there is none up high. We camped right after the Illouite creek crossing on the left. Fron there it's about 45 minutes to the base. Looked at Walkabout on Dome Biaz as well. What a sweet looking line. I'd figured it had been done so thanks for the info.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 15, 2012 - 12:57am PT
Kevin,

Thanks for all the edits and additional details.
I updated the photos - should be fairly close now (although the offroute bolts might still be off).
You might have to refresh the browser to see the new versions.

[edited photos again 9/17 to move the higher off route bolt - thanks, Kevin]
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Sep 15, 2012 - 07:45am PT
Looks better, Clint. The second offroute bolt is lower and closer to the first probably, but NBD. A route to the right could be really good, but I wouldn't use that start, I'd go independent from the ground.

I can't recall if we combined the last slab and headwall in one pitch, rather than the ramp and slab in one pitch as you have it broken up, again NBD, it's way easy up there, but super clean.

Speaking of clean, we gardened the 4th pitch a bit, there was intermittent grass in a perfect straight in finger crack for maybe a twenty foot section. It was the only vegetation on the route. It would be easy to buff it out for future ascents if a second ascent took 15 minutes to clean. We only cleaned it well enough to get gear in and climb it. The face is almost climbable without the crack, due to its angle and texture.

The tool for the job is a curved pruning saw, with a long blade - they're able to get way back in the crack to rip out the roots and do a permanent cleaning.

QITNL

climber
Sep 17, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
Wow, what a beautiful area.

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

And the views are pretty good, too.

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

More as I sort through them here:
http://www.qitnl.com/v/091412/
Captain...or Skully

climber
Sep 17, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
Sweet pics. Stone porn of the highest order.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Sep 17, 2012 - 09:19pm PT
Nice! How did you get up?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Sep 17, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
Really nice photos QITNL!

I don't think too many climbers venture out there, and so very many congregate in the lower Valley. Photos like those could change that, but only a little - the herd instinct is strong.
QITNL

climber
Sep 18, 2012 - 02:34pm PT
"How did you get up?" - I followed Clint's map on page one of this thread from Mono Meadows, though I went more to the north where he heads off-trail.

(Thanks, Clint, as always, for all of your great info.)

It's bone dry up high (heck, the Illilouette is no higher than your ankles) but I lucked upon water where the trail crosses the creek under the "50' of brush" annotation. There were little fish playing around in it so it might be fairly reliable. Maybe it's some kind of spring since there was nothing in the gully above it, nary a drop anywhere else on the mountain.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Sep 18, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
I'll mention again that the approach from Glacier Point down to Illilouette Creek and up the drainage is a better one.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
May 24, 2013 - 06:55pm PT
Hey Warbler,
We're heading up to Starr King in the second week of June. Will possibly get on your route on Dome Baez. I take it that all climbs to the top are walk offs?
Thanks!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 24, 2013 - 07:06pm PT
More like a stroll off - it's almost flat off the backside. You might want to replace the second bolt on the crux (2nd) pitch, not that it wasn't good 25 years ago, but they are quarter inch splitshanks. I think there are only 2 bolts on the route.

There is some grass in the splitter finger crack of pitch 4 - perhaps a cleaning tool's in order.

Stoked to hear you might get on it, and would love to see some photos.

All the pitches are good, but pitch 3's a beauty!
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
May 24, 2013 - 09:47pm PT
We will replace all bolts when on it. Sounds like a great route.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
May 24, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
Also wondering about "diamonds and rust". Clint's overlay calls it 5.11br and teamwhipper calls it 10c. Guess we'll find out.
ruppell

climber
May 25, 2013 - 06:42am PT
wstmrnclmr

Have fun on Walkabout. Thanks in advance for replacing the bolts on it. It's one of those lines that begs to be climbed. We approached from Mono Meadows and it was pretty casual. Some amazing stuff back there for sure.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
May 25, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
annnnnd bump.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 27, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
Tony,

Also wondering about "diamonds and rust". Clint's overlay calls it 5.11br and teamwhipper calls it 10c. Guess we'll find out.

The topo which Tom sent me shows:
p1: boulder problem start, climb past "donut chickenhead" (xenolith), faint dikes with 5.11b section, 1 bolt before diagonal dike, 1 bolt after dike, 80'.
p2: 5.9 knobs, 3x, somewhat runout. 165' stretch to ground (or to top of p1, not sure)
p3: 1x, 5.10-
p4: cracks
I will get you a copy of the topo.
It was a scanned topo drawn with pencil, somewhat faint, so there might be more bolts than what I could see.
msiddens

Trad climber
May 28, 2013 - 12:09pm PT
mmmmm granite!
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