Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 14, 2012 - 03:26am PT
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Kevin,
Thanks for the further story on Walkabout - sounds like one of those great onsight adventures that makes for great memories!
Here is an overlay guess - the photo shows many of the features, like the crack system / finger crack and I guessed the belays and bolt locations from your description.
Got any edits for this overlay? I'll like to make something more accurate than my guess! :-)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 14, 2012 - 03:29am PT
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Nate,
Here's a photo of Dome Baez - East Face which shows Tom's 5.9 corner system.
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Sep 14, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
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Yo Clint,
You do get around, don't ya!
Your line in the photos is almost perfect, the bolts are a tad off. The two offroute bolts would be a bit higher, leading up and right from the shaded roof just below your first onroute bolt. The second onroute bolt would be a bit lower than the ledge it appers to be sitting on. Basically it's right on.
The traverse under the roof pitch up high ends on a classic ledge formed by an obvious step on the edge of the flake just after the the roof's end.
The sixth pitch scrambles the obvious ramp, then straight up the smooth easy slab to the base of the headwall. PItch seven surmounts it by an obvious weakness.
I mistakenly referred to the thin crack pitch as the fourth upthread, it's really the third, making the roof the fifth. So...
Pitch 1 : 5.6
PItch 2 : 5.11a
Pitch 3 : 5.9
Pitch 4 : 5.10a
Pitch 5 : 5.10a
Pitch 6 : 5.0
Pitch 7 : 5.4
As best I recall. Thanks for the excellent photos, they helped me remember well.
I have slides of the climb, if I ever get a scanner, I'll post up.
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ruppell
climber
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Sep 14, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
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Was in there about three weeks ago and did a variation of West Face route. After the second pitch I headed out right to a small left facing corner. There was an old piton here that I removed BY HAND. It had CMI stamped on it if any one has any idea. Left a #4 DMM Peanut in it's place. Gear karma you know. Any way the route from there heads straight up but never rejoins West Face. 5.8+R would seems about right. Super fun dome and way closer of an approach than I thought. As far as water there is none up high. We camped right after the Illouite creek crossing on the left. Fron there it's about 45 minutes to the base. Looked at Walkabout on Dome Biaz as well. What a sweet looking line. I'd figured it had been done so thanks for the info.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 15, 2012 - 12:57am PT
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Kevin,
Thanks for all the edits and additional details.
I updated the photos - should be fairly close now (although the offroute bolts might still be off).
You might have to refresh the browser to see the new versions.
[edited photos again 9/17 to move the higher off route bolt - thanks, Kevin]
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Sep 15, 2012 - 07:45am PT
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Looks better, Clint. The second offroute bolt is lower and closer to the first probably, but NBD. A route to the right could be really good, but I wouldn't use that start, I'd go independent from the ground.
I can't recall if we combined the last slab and headwall in one pitch, rather than the ramp and slab in one pitch as you have it broken up, again NBD, it's way easy up there, but super clean.
Speaking of clean, we gardened the 4th pitch a bit, there was intermittent grass in a perfect straight in finger crack for maybe a twenty foot section. It was the only vegetation on the route. It would be easy to buff it out for future ascents if a second ascent took 15 minutes to clean. We only cleaned it well enough to get gear in and climb it. The face is almost climbable without the crack, due to its angle and texture.
The tool for the job is a curved pruning saw, with a long blade - they're able to get way back in the crack to rip out the roots and do a permanent cleaning.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Sep 17, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
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Sweet pics. Stone porn of the highest order.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Sep 17, 2012 - 09:19pm PT
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Nice! How did you get up?
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Sep 17, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
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Really nice photos QITNL!
I don't think too many climbers venture out there, and so very many congregate in the lower Valley. Photos like those could change that, but only a little - the herd instinct is strong.
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QITNL
climber
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Sep 18, 2012 - 02:34pm PT
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"How did you get up?" - I followed Clint's map on page one of this thread from Mono Meadows, though I went more to the north where he heads off-trail.
(Thanks, Clint, as always, for all of your great info.)
It's bone dry up high (heck, the Illilouette is no higher than your ankles) but I lucked upon water where the trail crosses the creek under the "50' of brush" annotation. There were little fish playing around in it so it might be fairly reliable. Maybe it's some kind of spring since there was nothing in the gully above it, nary a drop anywhere else on the mountain.
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Sep 18, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
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I'll mention again that the approach from Glacier Point down to Illilouette Creek and up the drainage is a better one.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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![Dome Baez - Walkabout overlay guess [edited twice]](http://www.supertopo.com/photos/14/17/263257_27612_L.jpg)
![Dome Baez - Walkabout - pitches 2-4 detail [edited twice]](http://www.supertopo.com/photos/14/17/263258_28861_L.jpg)
Let us know!