Bolt replacement Mt. Starr King

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 60 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
May 24, 2013 - 09:55pm PT
Hey Warbler,
We're heading up to Starr King in the second week of June. Will possibly get on your route on Dome Baez. I take it that all climbs to the top are walk offs?
Thanks!
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
May 25, 2013 - 12:47am PT
We will replace all bolts when on it. Sounds like a great route.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
May 25, 2013 - 02:30am PT
Also wondering about "diamonds and rust". Clint's overlay calls it 5.11br and teamwhipper calls it 10c. Guess we'll find out.
ruppell

climber
May 25, 2013 - 09:42am PT
wstmrnclmr

Have fun on Walkabout. Thanks in advance for replacing the bolts on it. It's one of those lines that begs to be climbed. We approached from Mono Meadows and it was pretty casual. Some amazing stuff back there for sure.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
May 25, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
annnnnd bump.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 28, 2013 - 12:49am PT
Tony,

Also wondering about "diamonds and rust". Clint's overlay calls it 5.11br and teamwhipper calls it 10c. Guess we'll find out.

The topo which Tom sent me shows:
p1: boulder problem start, climb past "donut chickenhead" (xenolith), faint dikes with 5.11b section, 1 bolt before diagonal dike, 1 bolt after dike, 80'.
p2: 5.9 knobs, 3x, somewhat runout. 165' stretch to ground (or to top of p1, not sure)
p3: 1x, 5.10-
p4: cracks
I will get you a copy of the topo.
It was a scanned topo drawn with pencil, somewhat faint, so there might be more bolts than what I could see.
msiddens

Trad climber
May 28, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
mmmmm granite!
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 4, 2013 - 08:14pm PT
Hey Warbler,
How many bolts on "walkabout"? Are there anchor bolts besides the two face bolts? We have permits to go in from Glacier. Any tips on hike in?
Thanks, Tony
cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
Jun 4, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
Last year we crossed on a sturdy log (mono meadows approach). I'm guessing it is still there given the mild winter we had this year.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 4, 2013 - 10:15pm PT
Thanks Kevin. We'll definitely take picks if we get on it.
ruppell

climber
Jun 4, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
*cough*mono meadows is easy*cough*

wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 7, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
Hey Warbler,
Any big gear on Walkabout?
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 12, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
Hey folks,
Does anybody have a written description and/or topo for the Southwest "Tom Rogers" route?
Thanks, Tony
reach

Trad climber
Palo Alto, CA
Jun 26, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
As of 6/22/13 there's still good water flowing as shown in Clint's approach beta.

The West Face of Starr King is a fun climb. I'll definitely be going back to get on Starry Starry Night to try and figure out where it goes.
gunsmoke

Mountain climber
Clackamas, Oregon
Apr 24, 2014 - 10:21pm PT
Starr King is a 9000' summit, so where's the snow? It's going to be a dry summer.
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Apr 24, 2014 - 11:58pm PT
since it's been bumped ;)

here's one above 2nd pitch of nuts n bolts

i was happy to clip it



Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 25, 2014 - 03:22pm PT
Joe,
Thanks for sharing your great photos. I found several on your site that I liked, too.
I did a photo hike to get shots of the domes S/SE of Starr King 2 years ago, but your shots from further back are much better than mine!

splitclimber,
Thanks for your shots of Nuts and Bolts. It's always good to have a reason to go back (and summit this time!).
Ken's 1/4" there are still pretty strong - it doesn't get that wet on that climb.
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Apr 25, 2014 - 04:36pm PT
Love the new photos!
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Apr 25, 2014 - 05:04pm PT
the 3rd pitch up the rib is really good and ends above that roof at a nice small bench with a good crack for a gear anchor. The adventure was high going up and not seeing any bolts and no gear placements.

I think there was only 2 bolts on pitch 3 then a random one a pitch below the tree. The rest is just 5 fun. :)


wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Apr 25, 2014 - 06:50pm PT
Ya, Joe's photo's are always beautiful. I plan on going back out this year to retro a climb Miss Colleen and I did last year. I will be happy to help replace anything old left on the dome. The photo's of Starr and Baez would be great for topo's......Speaking of which, have to get on Baez and replace as well.
Messages 41 - 60 of total 60 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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