Bolt replacement Mt. Starr King

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Roger Brown

climber
Oceano, California
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 12, 2012 - 11:29am PT
Clint, Dan, Bob, and I replaced the bolts on the "North Face Route", "Nuts and Bolts", and the "Tom Rogers Route" on Mt. Starr King this past weekend. Clint and I saw a good size Rattle Snake close up on the hike out Sunday.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Jun 12, 2012 - 11:33am PT
You guys rock(literally)!
Captain...or Skully

climber
Jun 12, 2012 - 11:48am PT
You guys are awesome, Roger. Tireless efforts!
cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
Jun 12, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
edit for Roger- "North Face Route" above should say "West Face Route".
QITNL

climber
Jun 12, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
Cool. Just for reference I'll cross link this west face TR, lots of good info there:
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/West-Face-of-Starr-King-Hidden-Gem-of-Yosemite/t10616n.html
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 12, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
Dan follows Bob on the West Face of Mt. Starr King
Dan follows Bob on the West Face of Mt. Starr King
Credit: Clint Cummins
Bob replacing bolts on the West Face of Mt. Starr King (direct ver...
Bob replacing bolts on the West Face of Mt. Starr King (direct version of p4)
Credit: Clint Cummins
Roger replacing a bolt on an unknown route, right of the West Face, Mt...
Roger replacing a bolt on an unknown route, right of the West Face, Mt. Starr King
Credit: Clint Cummins
original p1 belay bolts, Nuts and Bolts, Mt. Starr King
original p1 belay bolts, Nuts and Bolts, Mt. Starr King
Credit: Clint Cummins
replacing p1 belay bolt, Nuts and Bolts. <br/>
Lightweight gear donated by...
replacing p1 belay bolt, Nuts and Bolts.
Lightweight gear donated by Alex from Hall of Mirrors!
Credit: Clint Cummins
Leading over the roof on p2 of Nuts and Bolts, Mt. Starr King
Leading over the roof on p2 of Nuts and Bolts, Mt. Starr King
Credit: Clint Cummins
replacing p2 belay bolt on Nuts and Bolts, Mt. Starr King <br/>
&#40;note:...
replacing p2 belay bolt on Nuts and Bolts, Mt. Starr King
(note: broken Petzl RockPec drill holder, still usable but bit could fall out)
Credit: Clint Cummins
Mishap while pulling 2nd protection bolt on p2 - half of bolt broken o...
Mishap while pulling 2nd protection bolt on p2 - half of bolt broken off in hole.
Credit: Clint Cummins
After much fiddling, problem solved by using Roger's needlenose pliers...
After much fiddling, problem solved by using Roger's needlenose pliers on Leatherman to extract broken half of bolt from hole.
(This enabled replacement in the original hole instead of drilling a new one).
Credit: Clint Cummins
Roger replacing 2nd protection bolt on p2 of Nuts and Bolts, Mt. Starr...
Roger replacing 2nd protection bolt on p2 of Nuts and Bolts, Mt. Starr King
Credit: Clint Cummins
Dave Kos

Trad climber
Temecula
Jun 12, 2012 - 01:07pm PT
Nice work!

Those fingernails are pretty long for a climber. :)
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 12, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
Those fingernails are pretty long for a climber. :)

LOL!

Thanks, guys, for your excellent and ongoing work.

John
spyork

Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
Jun 12, 2012 - 01:32pm PT
Thanks Clint and Roger! I have been wanting to get up there and climb that.

Steve
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jun 12, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
Hopefully we'll be seeing more trip reports from out there now. Somebody should get busy on that incredible mushroom boulder on the Mono Meadows approach too.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 12, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
Here are the current options for crossing Illouette Creek on the Mono Meadow approach.
Illouette Creek - Bob and Dan on the log crossing 6/2012
Illouette Creek - Bob and Dan on the log crossing 6/2012
Credit: Clint Cummins
Illouette Creek - Roger on the ford option, 6/2012 &#40;return leg of ...
Illouette Creek - Roger on the ford option, 6/2012 (return leg of trip)
Credit: Clint Cummins
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 12, 2012 - 02:45pm PT
Roger needs long fingernails - they help when he plucks out old bolts with his bare hands.
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Jun 12, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
West Face belay bolts
West Face belay bolts
Credit: Banquo
Not sure how old this is but it was surprisingly solid
Not sure how old this is but it was surprisingly solid
Credit: Banquo
40 years old and still hard to pull
40 years old and still hard to pull
Credit: Banquo
All shiny and new. Note the broken 1/4" bit in the hole above the righ...
All shiny and new. Note the broken 1/4" bit in the hole above the right bolt.
Credit: Banquo
Bob at work as the sun sets. No photos after this as we descended in t...
Bob at work as the sun sets. No photos after this as we descended in the dark making camp at 11 pm.

Half Dome beyond.
Credit: Banquo
Clint and Roger
Clint and Roger
Credit: Banquo
Yosemite Falls, Royal Arches, North Dome and Half Dome.
Yosemite Falls, Royal Arches, North Dome and Half Dome.
Credit: Banquo
Clint and Roger at work
Clint and Roger at work
Credit: Banquo

We also managed to photograph the summit register entries from 1990 to present and climb some virgin rock.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Jun 12, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
YESH! Thx guys! Such a great rock back there.

How were the bugs?
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Jun 12, 2012 - 04:19pm PT
No bugs, cool nights and warm days. Outside of sunburn, perfect conditions.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Jun 12, 2012 - 04:54pm PT
Badass, Thanks. By the way these are terrible routes and not worth the hassle to get to. Don't bother and please warn all your friends...
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Jun 12, 2012 - 06:58pm PT
Hey Clint, you got a picture of Star King with an overlay of all it's routes drawn in?

Thinking about heading up to that particular rock sometime this year myself.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 15, 2012 - 03:22am PT
Sure, Chad - here is an updated overlay of Starr King West Face, and a prelim overlay for Dome Baez:
Mt. Starr King - West Face overlay <br/>
updated 6/2012
Mt. Starr King - West Face overlay
updated 6/2012
Credit: Alaskan Dude / CC / Ian / qigongclimber
Dome Baez overlay <br/>
&#40;SW of Starr King&#41; <br/>
prelim version - needs checking
Dome Baez overlay
(SW of Starr King)
prelim version - needs checking
Credit: Clint Cummins
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 15, 2012 - 05:23pm PT
Here are approach details for the West Face climbs, from Mono Meadow.
Mt. Starr King - West Face, Mono Meadow approach topo map
Mt. Starr King - West Face, Mono Meadow approach topo map
Credit: topoquest / CC
Mt. Starr King - West Face, Mono Meadow approach overlay
Mt. Starr King - West Face, Mono Meadow approach overlay
Credit: alaskan dude / CC
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Jun 15, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
You are totally correct, Wade. The place is a hellhole, the routes generally degrade the climbers, the approach is wading through icy creek water, the possibilities of new routes are rare, and the climbs are too low angle to interest anyone who has been on the GPA. Fergeddit.

Oh, yeah, the views from there are all Half Dome, Half Dome, Half Dome.
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Jun 15, 2012 - 06:18pm PT
So GREAT to re-visit those climbs and to see that the original bolts have weathered the years well. But it's also great to see them replaced. Thanks for doing that work, tho, like you guys say, it's really not worth going in there to climb...

Banquo: In your second picture, was that a Dolt Hanger that you removed? If so, perhaps you could send it to LilaBiene who is Dolt's daughter and who would appreciate it more than anyone that I know.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 15, 2012 - 06:31pm PT
It was fun to finally locate Nuts and Bolts - I thought for sure it was where "West Flake" is; that turned out to be quite a bit easier.
Here's a link to Ken's photo trip report of the first ascent in 1972:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1292666&msg=1293125#msg1293125
First Pitch; BooDawg leading.
First Pitch; BooDawg leading.
Credit: BooDawg

Still looking for bolts on the NW Face....

That was an SMC stainless hanger on the West Face, added next to the first bolt by someone (vs. Dolt which is chrome moly).
Did you place those bolts on pitch 4 on the FA? Only the top one is mentioned in the Roper description, so I guess he didn't get the route description direct from you?

Here's one of those views of Half Dome, from the Mono Meadow trail, early evening on the hike out:
Half Dome - SW Face, from Mono Meadow trail
Half Dome - SW Face, from Mono Meadow trail
Credit: Clint Cummins
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Jun 15, 2012 - 07:39pm PT
I helped Roper a fair amount on the "Green Guide." And since the Starr King climbs were done in 1970, they probably didn't have a second ascent before it came out. He must have gotten those descriptions from me, tho I doubt that I have the original notes anymore.

My memory has faded on just what bolts I might have placed. I assume what I placed is in the descriptions in the "Green Guide."
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Jun 15, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
Thank you, CC. The photos of Tim climbing are so magic for me. I never climbed much with the man, but he was serious about his climbs but not about life's problems. A full-time cool person.
It's nice for me to see the Dawg's portrait, as I never had the pleasure of meeting him. You're a handsome dog, Ken. Too bad you didn't get a summit shot of the two of you studs. It would have been gold.
WBraun

climber
Jun 15, 2012 - 08:00pm PT
I remember the brutal approach to Mt. Starr King.

It was only few hundred feet as I stepped out of the helicopter near the base to start the climb ......
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Jun 16, 2012 - 06:05am PT
Werner - why not land on top? What were you thinking?

BooDawg - As Clint says, the hanger was a SS SMC that must have been added later.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Jun 16, 2012 - 09:04am PT
Good work on the bolt replacement project.
100% winners
you guys are a huge force!
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Jun 16, 2012 - 12:00pm PT
If there's a question about what bolts I may have placed, if it is NOT a 1/4" Rawl Drive with a nut, holding on a Leeper hanger, I would not have placed it. If it is that, it's likely I did place it, but it's still possible someone else did.
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Jun 16, 2012 - 10:08pm PT
A photo from last weekend.

The current register. (cross posted to the Starr King register thread) There are two registers up there and I should have photographed at least part of the older one. This covers 10-1-1990 to 6-10-1012.
http://danielmerrick.com/Starr_King/Reduced%20images%20as%20a%20slideshow/

Starr King 6-10-2012
Starr King 6-10-2012
Credit: Banquo
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jun 16, 2012 - 10:43pm PT
Sick pics Banquo and Clint. Is one of those lines on Baez a Warbler route?
The wide dihedral in same photo (SW skyline) looks inviting too.
QITNL

climber
Sep 12, 2012 - 10:01pm PT
I might head up towards MSK this weekend, spend a couple of nights, get the lay of the land. Never been up there before. A buddy might want to climb the sucker in a couple of weeks, I should see if there's any water.

I'll stick to easy class 3 on my own, hike the weenie domes, take some photos. But if anyone is around and wants to jump on the sharp end, let me know, I'll bring a rope or whatever.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Sep 13, 2012 - 12:06am PT
I might be interested in attempting a new route in a few weeks. Maybe taking a lap or two on existing routes as well.

Not this weekend though.
QITNL

climber
Sep 13, 2012 - 12:28am PT
Cool, man. I might hit you up on that. I keep seeing these damn domes from every other angle in the park, wanna finally hit my head on them up close. See if I can scramble up Dome Baez up her ass.
Gary

Social climber
Monza by the streetlight
Sep 13, 2012 - 06:02am PT
Nice work. That's some great rock back there.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Sep 13, 2012 - 07:55am PT
Walkabout is the route on "Dome Baez" that Mark Chapman and I did. To be exact on the upper part of the line, it climbs the leaning, left facing flake just right and up from the green arrow at the top of the green dotted line. This flake is prominent, and intimidating from the base of the route, as it has a wide crack behind it and leans severely. At its end the flake is only a few inches thick, and juts out into the sky from the climbers' perspective below.

The route takes one of the two obvious lines through the summit cap's headwall to the top, after a long low angle slab.

It's a good one - only two bolts I believe, as I've said here before, the fourth pitch is an amazing continuous 5.8 and 5.9 seam/splitter which gobbles up stoppers, but only every 15 or 20 ft. One of the best I've encountered on a new lead.

We found the approach to be better from Glacier Point - there's less brush on the slope below the dome when you approach from that angle.

EDIT: The two bolts on walkabout are quarter inchers, placed on stance about 25 years ago, they protect the crux, a mantle and some thin edging.

The wall to the right has some potential. Anyone know of routes over there?
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Sep 13, 2012 - 08:37am PT
Warb,
See again this link for mention of at least one other line on Baez:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=163599&msg=569782#msg569782
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Sep 13, 2012 - 10:22am PT
Clint, you show the grades for the climbs on Baez, how about the grades for Mt. Starr King?

As always, ++ Work!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 13, 2012 - 04:57pm PT
Kevin,

> The wall to the right has some potential. Anyone know of routes over there?

Here's a slightly more direct link to AlDude's unfinished route right of Walkabout:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=163599&msg=164304#msg164304
"West of Starr King? Cashner and I got 4 pitches up central line in 1990. After two horrendous 1/4 inch horror shows attempt ended on big loose flake in near darkness with much 5.11 to go. I think Chapman and Worral later established an 8 pitch 5.10 to the left. Could be mistaken though."
[I believe we later determined that Walkabout was done after 1990]

There is one more climb on Dome Baez not shown on my overlay photo, further around to the right in an obvious straight-up corner system, a 3 pitch 5.9.

Kelly,
Here are ratings and pitch counts for the climbs on the Starr King overlay photo:
 NW Face 5.9, 7p (we have been unable to locate this so far, need to look more!)
 Starry Starry Knight 5.10a, 9p in right facing shallow dihedrals - could use some more research on this also - climb it and send me a topo!
 West Face 5.8, 8p (maybe 5.9 directly up the bolts)
 West Flake 5.7
 Flake Exit 5.8 (exit right early past the bolt Roger replaced)
 Illilouette Face 5.5 R, 9?p, aka Tom Rogers SW Face route
 Nuts and Bolts 5.8, 8p

Joe,

Wish I could join you for exploring up there this weekend, but I already have plans....

Chad,

If you could use topos for the leftmost 3 routes on Dome Baez, I have them.
I had hoped to locate the AlDude route there on a previous trip, but ran out of time after checking out (existing) routes on a dome further to the east.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Sep 13, 2012 - 05:26pm PT
When Chappy and I first attempted our route, we did a long easy pitch up an obvious shallow left facing corner/ramp and belayed at its end where the climbing got harder. Mark pieced together some features leading up and right, and about sixty feet out, he noticed two bolts leading further out right into steeper and smoother territory. He gave it a go, but it was obvious that whoever placed the bolts didn't get much farther.

He came down to the belay, and I had a go at it. Just below the bolts, I saw a nice weakness leading straight up and slightly left, so I moved up to check it out. I could see a mini ledge or mantel shalf about halfway through the blankish section between me and the upper part of the line, which is prominent enough to see from Mono Meadows with the naked eye.
I got a bolt in, and gave the lead back to Mark, he surmounted the mantel, placed another bolt, and climbed mup into the crack system that is the route for the next three or four hundred feet.

I was surprised and stoked that whoever was up there before got sidetracked, and we continued, only to get shut down by a grassy finger crack and dwindling daylight. We bailed and went back To finish another day.

Rick Cashner told me later the bolts were from his and Aldude's attempt.

We never walked the base to the right, but I saw distinct possibilities on steeper rock, to the immediate left are other possibilities.

It's a beatiful place to climb, and not much more than an hour and a half of mellow trail hiking to the base from The Glacier Point road.
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Sep 13, 2012 - 06:50pm PT
There is one more climb on Dome Baez not shown on my overlay photo, further around to the right in an obvious straight-up corner system, a 3 pitch 5.9.

Clint,
Is this the 5.9 Thomas Addison (teamwhipper) mentions?
We called that dome Dome Baez in 1984, when we established Diamonds and Rust (left side of dome as pictured; 10c chickenheads) and some 5.9 all gear line reminiscent of The Surprise on the right side.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 14, 2012 - 03:26am PT
Kevin,

Thanks for the further story on Walkabout - sounds like one of those great onsight adventures that makes for great memories!
Here is an overlay guess - the photo shows many of the features, like the crack system / finger crack and I guessed the belays and bolt locations from your description.
Dome Baez - Walkabout overlay guess [edited twice]
Dome Baez - Walkabout overlay guess [edited twice]
Credit: Clint Cummins / Kevin Worrall
Dome Baez - Walkabout - pitches 2-4 detail [edited twice]
Dome Baez - Walkabout - pitches 2-4 detail [edited twice]
Credit: Clint Cummins / Kevin Worrall
Got any edits for this overlay? I'll like to make something more accurate than my guess! :-)
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 14, 2012 - 03:29am PT
Nate,
Here's a photo of Dome Baez - East Face which shows Tom's 5.9 corner system.
Dome Baez - East Face, showing 5.9 route in right facing corners, FA b...
Dome Baez - East Face, showing 5.9 route in right facing corners, FA by Tom Addison and Scott Pond
Credit: Clint Cummins
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Sep 14, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
Yo Clint,

You do get around, don't ya!

Your line in the photos is almost perfect, the bolts are a tad off. The two offroute bolts would be a bit higher, leading up and right from the shaded roof just below your first onroute bolt. The second onroute bolt would be a bit lower than the ledge it appers to be sitting on. Basically it's right on.

The traverse under the roof pitch up high ends on a classic ledge formed by an obvious step on the edge of the flake just after the the roof's end.

The sixth pitch scrambles the obvious ramp, then straight up the smooth easy slab to the base of the headwall. PItch seven surmounts it by an obvious weakness.

I mistakenly referred to the thin crack pitch as the fourth upthread, it's really the third, making the roof the fifth. So...

Pitch 1 : 5.6
PItch 2 : 5.11a
Pitch 3 : 5.9
Pitch 4 : 5.10a
Pitch 5 : 5.10a
Pitch 6 : 5.0
Pitch 7 : 5.4

As best I recall. Thanks for the excellent photos, they helped me remember well.

I have slides of the climb, if I ever get a scanner, I'll post up.
ruppell

climber
Sep 14, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
Was in there about three weeks ago and did a variation of West Face route. After the second pitch I headed out right to a small left facing corner. There was an old piton here that I removed BY HAND. It had CMI stamped on it if any one has any idea. Left a #4 DMM Peanut in it's place. Gear karma you know. Any way the route from there heads straight up but never rejoins West Face. 5.8+R would seems about right. Super fun dome and way closer of an approach than I thought. As far as water there is none up high. We camped right after the Illouite creek crossing on the left. Fron there it's about 45 minutes to the base. Looked at Walkabout on Dome Biaz as well. What a sweet looking line. I'd figured it had been done so thanks for the info.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 15, 2012 - 12:57am PT
Kevin,

Thanks for all the edits and additional details.
I updated the photos - should be fairly close now (although the offroute bolts might still be off).
You might have to refresh the browser to see the new versions.

[edited photos again 9/17 to move the higher off route bolt - thanks, Kevin]
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Sep 15, 2012 - 07:45am PT
Looks better, Clint. The second offroute bolt is lower and closer to the first probably, but NBD. A route to the right could be really good, but I wouldn't use that start, I'd go independent from the ground.

I can't recall if we combined the last slab and headwall in one pitch, rather than the ramp and slab in one pitch as you have it broken up, again NBD, it's way easy up there, but super clean.

Speaking of clean, we gardened the 4th pitch a bit, there was intermittent grass in a perfect straight in finger crack for maybe a twenty foot section. It was the only vegetation on the route. It would be easy to buff it out for future ascents if a second ascent took 15 minutes to clean. We only cleaned it well enough to get gear in and climb it. The face is almost climbable without the crack, due to its angle and texture.

The tool for the job is a curved pruning saw, with a long blade - they're able to get way back in the crack to rip out the roots and do a permanent cleaning.

QITNL

climber
Sep 17, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
Wow, what a beautiful area.

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

And the views are pretty good, too.

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

More as I sort through them here:
http://www.qitnl.com/v/091412/
Captain...or Skully

climber
Sep 17, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
Sweet pics. Stone porn of the highest order.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Sep 17, 2012 - 09:19pm PT
Nice! How did you get up?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Sep 17, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
Really nice photos QITNL!

I don't think too many climbers venture out there, and so very many congregate in the lower Valley. Photos like those could change that, but only a little - the herd instinct is strong.
QITNL

climber
Sep 18, 2012 - 02:34pm PT
"How did you get up?" - I followed Clint's map on page one of this thread from Mono Meadows, though I went more to the north where he heads off-trail.

(Thanks, Clint, as always, for all of your great info.)

It's bone dry up high (heck, the Illilouette is no higher than your ankles) but I lucked upon water where the trail crosses the creek under the "50' of brush" annotation. There were little fish playing around in it so it might be fairly reliable. Maybe it's some kind of spring since there was nothing in the gully above it, nary a drop anywhere else on the mountain.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Sep 18, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
I'll mention again that the approach from Glacier Point down to Illilouette Creek and up the drainage is a better one.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
May 24, 2013 - 06:55pm PT
Hey Warbler,
We're heading up to Starr King in the second week of June. Will possibly get on your route on Dome Baez. I take it that all climbs to the top are walk offs?
Thanks!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 24, 2013 - 07:06pm PT
More like a stroll off - it's almost flat off the backside. You might want to replace the second bolt on the crux (2nd) pitch, not that it wasn't good 25 years ago, but they are quarter inch splitshanks. I think there are only 2 bolts on the route.

There is some grass in the splitter finger crack of pitch 4 - perhaps a cleaning tool's in order.

Stoked to hear you might get on it, and would love to see some photos.

All the pitches are good, but pitch 3's a beauty!
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
May 24, 2013 - 09:47pm PT
We will replace all bolts when on it. Sounds like a great route.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
May 24, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
Also wondering about "diamonds and rust". Clint's overlay calls it 5.11br and teamwhipper calls it 10c. Guess we'll find out.
ruppell

climber
May 25, 2013 - 06:42am PT
wstmrnclmr

Have fun on Walkabout. Thanks in advance for replacing the bolts on it. It's one of those lines that begs to be climbed. We approached from Mono Meadows and it was pretty casual. Some amazing stuff back there for sure.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
May 25, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
annnnnd bump.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 27, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
Tony,

Also wondering about "diamonds and rust". Clint's overlay calls it 5.11br and teamwhipper calls it 10c. Guess we'll find out.

The topo which Tom sent me shows:
p1: boulder problem start, climb past "donut chickenhead" (xenolith), faint dikes with 5.11b section, 1 bolt before diagonal dike, 1 bolt after dike, 80'.
p2: 5.9 knobs, 3x, somewhat runout. 165' stretch to ground (or to top of p1, not sure)
p3: 1x, 5.10-
p4: cracks
I will get you a copy of the topo.
It was a scanned topo drawn with pencil, somewhat faint, so there might be more bolts than what I could see.
msiddens

Trad climber
May 28, 2013 - 12:09pm PT
mmmmm granite!
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 4, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
Hey Warbler,
How many bolts on "walkabout"? Are there anchor bolts besides the two face bolts? We have permits to go in from Glacier. Any tips on hike in?
Thanks, Tony
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jun 4, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
Tony,

Mark and i went in both ways, and decided the Glacier Point Approach was a bit better. It's more direct, a better trail, and is a more constant grade. It also delivers you to the Dome on the NW side which offers a brush free hike from the trail to the base, unlike the Mono Meadows approach which comes in from the SW and puts a big brush field between you and the base. If you hike in that way, you should probably hike a bit northward on the trail past the dome and resist the urge to hike directly up to the base. You'll see what I mean if you look on Google Earth.

The creek crossing is the wild card, I don't remember if there's a bridge on the MM approach, but I know there isn't one from GP, if you go direct to the dome. You can follow a trail up the west side of the creek when approaching from GP, but to go direct to the dome you have to pick a spot to cross the creek, and get to the parallel trail on the east side. You can hike all the way up past the dome to the MM trail, and then backtrack a bit, IF there's a bridge there, but you're losing the advantage of the GP approach by adding that distance.

Clint knows about the bridge, Werner maybe, anybody? I don't think the creek's too serious to cross without a bridge anyway...

I'm almost positive we had good all gear belays, and there were only 2 pro bolts. Again, bring something to clean grass out of the crack for pro on the fourth pitch. If you're feeling philanthropic, a thorough cleaning of that crack would really improve that pitch - it's a splitter straight in finger crack with face holds, and I think there's only about 20 ft that's grassy. As I mentioned before, a curved pruning saw, maybe a folding one, that you don't need to keep sharp works real well for the job. I use a 16 inch one with a rigid handle that's retired from tree pruning.

Hope it goes well, let's see some photos!
cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
Jun 4, 2013 - 07:12pm PT
Last year we crossed on a sturdy log (mono meadows approach). I'm guessing it is still there given the mild winter we had this year.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 4, 2013 - 07:15pm PT
Thanks Kevin. We'll definitely take picks if we get on it.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jun 4, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
Was just looking at the Topo map of the area, and I think you want to cross the creek at your first opportunity after the descent from GP.
ruppell

climber
Jun 4, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
*cough*mono meadows is easy*cough*

wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 7, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
Hey Warbler,
Any big gear on Walkabout?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jun 7, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
Nothing bigger than 3 inches.

The big roof at the end of the steep part looks like it calls for big stuff, but you can work your way around it. Chappy led that.

Don't want to spoil your adventure with too many details.

I dunno, maybe something in the 4 inch range - I really can't remember. It's likely we did it with hexes and stoppers.

There are a bunch of ridiculously bomber stopper slots on the 3rd pitch....
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 12, 2013 - 06:34pm PT
Hey folks,
Does anybody have a written description and/or topo for the Southwest "Tom Rogers" route?
Thanks, Tony
reach

Trad climber
Palo Alto, CA
Jun 26, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
As of 6/22/13 there's still good water flowing as shown in Clint's approach beta.

The West Face of Starr King is a fun climb. I'll definitely be going back to get on Starry Starry Night to try and figure out where it goes.
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