Bolt replacement Mt. Starr King


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Roger Brown

Oceano, California
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 12, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
Clint, Dan, Bob, and I replaced the bolts on the "North Face Route", "Nuts and Bolts", and the "Tom Rogers Route" on Mt. Starr King this past weekend. Clint and I saw a good size Rattle Snake close up on the hike out Sunday.

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Jun 12, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
You guys rock(literally)!
Captain...or Skully

Jun 12, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
You guys are awesome, Roger. Tireless efforts!

Social climber
san joser
Jun 12, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
edit for Roger- "North Face Route" above should say "West Face Route".
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 12, 2012 - 04:03pm PT

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 12, 2012 - 04:10pm PT
Those fingernails are pretty long for a climber. :)


Thanks, guys, for your excellent and ongoing work.


Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
Jun 12, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
Thanks Clint and Roger! I have been wanting to get up there and climb that.


Boulder climber
Jun 12, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
Hopefully we'll be seeing more trip reports from out there now. Somebody should get busy on that incredible mushroom boulder on the Mono Meadows approach too.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 12, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
Here are the current options for crossing Illouette Creek on the Mono Meadow approach.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 12, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
Roger needs long fingernails - they help when he plucks out old bolts with his bare hands.

Jun 12, 2012 - 06:23pm PT

We also managed to photograph the summit register entries from 1990 to present and climb some virgin rock.

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Jun 12, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
YESH! Thx guys! Such a great rock back there.

How were the bugs?

Jun 12, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
No bugs, cool nights and warm days. Outside of sunburn, perfect conditions.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
Jun 12, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
Badass, Thanks. By the way these are terrible routes and not worth the hassle to get to. Don't bother and please warn all your friends...

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Jun 12, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
Hey Clint, you got a picture of Star King with an overlay of all it's routes drawn in?

Thinking about heading up to that particular rock sometime this year myself.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 15, 2012 - 06:22am PT
Sure, Chad - here is an updated overlay of Starr King West Face, and a prelim overlay for Dome Baez:
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 15, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
Here are approach details for the West Face climbs, from Mono Meadow.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Jun 15, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
You are totally correct, Wade. The place is a hellhole, the routes generally degrade the climbers, the approach is wading through icy creek water, the possibilities of new routes are rare, and the climbs are too low angle to interest anyone who has been on the GPA. Fergeddit.

Oh, yeah, the views from there are all Half Dome, Half Dome, Half Dome.

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Jun 15, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
So GREAT to re-visit those climbs and to see that the original bolts have weathered the years well. But it's also great to see them replaced. Thanks for doing that work, tho, like you guys say, it's really not worth going in there to climb...

Banquo: In your second picture, was that a Dolt Hanger that you removed? If so, perhaps you could send it to LilaBiene who is Dolt's daughter and who would appreciate it more than anyone that I know.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 15, 2012 - 09:31pm PT
It was fun to finally locate Nuts and Bolts - I thought for sure it was where "West Flake" is; that turned out to be quite a bit easier.
Here's a link to Ken's photo trip report of the first ascent in 1972:

Still looking for bolts on the NW Face....

That was an SMC stainless hanger on the West Face, added next to the first bolt by someone (vs. Dolt which is chrome moly).
Did you place those bolts on pitch 4 on the FA? Only the top one is mentioned in the Roper description, so I guess he didn't get the route description direct from you?

Here's one of those views of Half Dome, from the Mono Meadow trail, early evening on the hike out:
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