Bolt replacement Mt. Starr King

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 80 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Jun 15, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
So GREAT to re-visit those climbs and to see that the original bolts have weathered the years well. But it's also great to see them replaced. Thanks for doing that work, tho, like you guys say, it's really not worth going in there to climb...

Banquo: In your second picture, was that a Dolt Hanger that you removed? If so, perhaps you could send it to LilaBiene who is Dolt's daughter and who would appreciate it more than anyone that I know.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 15, 2012 - 09:31pm PT
It was fun to finally locate Nuts and Bolts - I thought for sure it was where "West Flake" is; that turned out to be quite a bit easier.
Here's a link to Ken's photo trip report of the first ascent in 1972:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1292666&msg=1293125#msg1293125
First Pitch; BooDawg leading.
First Pitch; BooDawg leading.
Credit: BooDawg

Still looking for bolts on the NW Face....

That was an SMC stainless hanger on the West Face, added next to the first bolt by someone (vs. Dolt which is chrome moly).
Did you place those bolts on pitch 4 on the FA? Only the top one is mentioned in the Roper description, so I guess he didn't get the route description direct from you?

Here's one of those views of Half Dome, from the Mono Meadow trail, early evening on the hike out:
Half Dome - SW Face, from Mono Meadow trail
Half Dome - SW Face, from Mono Meadow trail
Credit: Clint Cummins
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Jun 15, 2012 - 10:39pm PT
I helped Roper a fair amount on the "Green Guide." And since the Starr King climbs were done in 1970, they probably didn't have a second ascent before it came out. He must have gotten those descriptions from me, tho I doubt that I have the original notes anymore.

My memory has faded on just what bolts I might have placed. I assume what I placed is in the descriptions in the "Green Guide."
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Jun 15, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
Thank you, CC. The photos of Tim climbing are so magic for me. I never climbed much with the man, but he was serious about his climbs but not about life's problems. A full-time cool person.
It's nice for me to see the Dawg's portrait, as I never had the pleasure of meeting him. You're a handsome dog, Ken. Too bad you didn't get a summit shot of the two of you studs. It would have been gold.
WBraun

climber
Jun 15, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
I remember the brutal approach to Mt. Starr King.

It was only few hundred feet as I stepped out of the helicopter near the base to start the climb ......
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Jun 16, 2012 - 09:05am PT
Werner - why not land on top? What were you thinking?

BooDawg - As Clint says, the hanger was a SS SMC that must have been added later.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Jun 16, 2012 - 12:04pm PT
Good work on the bolt replacement project.
100% winners
you guys are a huge force!
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Jun 16, 2012 - 03:00pm PT
If there's a question about what bolts I may have placed, if it is NOT a 1/4" Rawl Drive with a nut, holding on a Leeper hanger, I would not have placed it. If it is that, it's likely I did place it, but it's still possible someone else did.
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Jun 17, 2012 - 01:08am PT
A photo from last weekend.

The current register. (cross posted to the Starr King register thread) There are two registers up there and I should have photographed at least part of the older one. This covers 10-1-1990 to 6-10-1012.
http://danielmerrick.com/Starr_King/Reduced%20images%20as%20a%20slideshow/

Starr King 6-10-2012
Starr King 6-10-2012
Credit: Banquo
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jun 17, 2012 - 01:43am PT
Sick pics Banquo and Clint. Is one of those lines on Baez a Warbler route?
The wide dihedral in same photo (SW skyline) looks inviting too.
QITNL

climber
Sep 13, 2012 - 01:01am PT
I might head up towards MSK this weekend, spend a couple of nights, get the lay of the land. Never been up there before. A buddy might want to climb the sucker in a couple of weeks, I should see if there's any water.

I'll stick to easy class 3 on my own, hike the weenie domes, take some photos. But if anyone is around and wants to jump on the sharp end, let me know, I'll bring a rope or whatever.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Sep 13, 2012 - 03:06am PT
I might be interested in attempting a new route in a few weeks. Maybe taking a lap or two on existing routes as well.

Not this weekend though.
QITNL

climber
Sep 13, 2012 - 03:28am PT
Cool, man. I might hit you up on that. I keep seeing these damn domes from every other angle in the park, wanna finally hit my head on them up close. See if I can scramble up Dome Baez up her ass.
Gary

Social climber
Monza by the streetlight
Sep 13, 2012 - 09:02am PT
Nice work. That's some great rock back there.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Sep 13, 2012 - 10:55am PT
Walkabout is the route on "Dome Baez" that Mark Chapman and I did. To be exact on the upper part of the line, it climbs the leaning, left facing flake just right and up from the green arrow at the top of the green dotted line. This flake is prominent, and intimidating from the base of the route, as it has a wide crack behind it and leans severely. At its end the flake is only a few inches thick, and juts out into the sky from the climbers' perspective below.

The route takes one of the two obvious lines through the summit cap's headwall to the top, after a long low angle slab.

It's a good one - only two bolts I believe, as I've said here before, the fourth pitch is an amazing continuous 5.8 and 5.9 seam/splitter which gobbles up stoppers, but only every 15 or 20 ft. One of the best I've encountered on a new lead.

We found the approach to be better from Glacier Point - there's less brush on the slope below the dome when you approach from that angle.

EDIT: The two bolts on walkabout are quarter inchers, placed on stance about 25 years ago, they protect the crux, a mantle and some thin edging.

The wall to the right has some potential. Anyone know of routes over there?
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Sep 13, 2012 - 11:37am PT
Warb,
See again this link for mention of at least one other line on Baez:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=163599&msg=569782#msg569782
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Sep 13, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
Clint, you show the grades for the climbs on Baez, how about the grades for Mt. Starr King?

As always, ++ Work!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 13, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
Kevin,

> The wall to the right has some potential. Anyone know of routes over there?

Here's a slightly more direct link to AlDude's unfinished route right of Walkabout:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=163599&msg=164304#msg164304
"West of Starr King? Cashner and I got 4 pitches up central line in 1990. After two horrendous 1/4 inch horror shows attempt ended on big loose flake in near darkness with much 5.11 to go. I think Chapman and Worral later established an 8 pitch 5.10 to the left. Could be mistaken though."
[I believe we later determined that Walkabout was done after 1990]

There is one more climb on Dome Baez not shown on my overlay photo, further around to the right in an obvious straight-up corner system, a 3 pitch 5.9.

Kelly,
Here are ratings and pitch counts for the climbs on the Starr King overlay photo:
 NW Face 5.9, 7p (we have been unable to locate this so far, need to look more!)
 Starry Starry Knight 5.10a, 9p in right facing shallow dihedrals - could use some more research on this also - climb it and send me a topo!
 West Face 5.8, 8p (maybe 5.9 directly up the bolts)
 West Flake 5.7
 Flake Exit 5.8 (exit right early past the bolt Roger replaced)
 Illilouette Face 5.5 R, 9?p, aka Tom Rogers SW Face route
 Nuts and Bolts 5.8, 8p

Joe,

Wish I could join you for exploring up there this weekend, but I already have plans....

Chad,

If you could use topos for the leftmost 3 routes on Dome Baez, I have them.
I had hoped to locate the AlDude route there on a previous trip, but ran out of time after checking out (existing) routes on a dome further to the east.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Sep 13, 2012 - 08:26pm PT
When Chappy and I first attempted our route, we did a long easy pitch up an obvious shallow left facing corner/ramp and belayed at its end where the climbing got harder. Mark pieced together some features leading up and right, and about sixty feet out, he noticed two bolts leading further out right into steeper and smoother territory. He gave it a go, but it was obvious that whoever placed the bolts didn't get much farther.

He came down to the belay, and I had a go at it. Just below the bolts, I saw a nice weakness leading straight up and slightly left, so I moved up to check it out. I could see a mini ledge or mantel shalf about halfway through the blankish section between me and the upper part of the line, which is prominent enough to see from Mono Meadows with the naked eye.
I got a bolt in, and gave the lead back to Mark, he surmounted the mantel, placed another bolt, and climbed mup into the crack system that is the route for the next three or four hundred feet.

I was surprised and stoked that whoever was up there before got sidetracked, and we continued, only to get shut down by a grassy finger crack and dwindling daylight. We bailed and went back To finish another day.

Rick Cashner told me later the bolts were from his and Aldude's attempt.

We never walked the base to the right, but I saw distinct possibilities on steeper rock, to the immediate left are other possibilities.

It's a beatiful place to climb, and not much more than an hour and a half of mellow trail hiking to the base from The Glacier Point road.
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Sep 13, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
There is one more climb on Dome Baez not shown on my overlay photo, further around to the right in an obvious straight-up corner system, a 3 pitch 5.9.

Clint,
Is this the 5.9 Thomas Addison (teamwhipper) mentions?
We called that dome Dome Baez in 1984, when we established Diamonds and Rust (left side of dome as pictured; 10c chickenheads) and some 5.9 all gear line reminiscent of The Surprise on the right side.
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