Solo Belay Anchors: Inverted or Not? Which is Better?

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WBraun

climber

Apr 26, 2006 - 08:46pm PT

And here is the directional bowline.

Alan Doak

climber

boulder, co

Apr 27, 2006 - 11:47am PT

Pete, I definately agree that the butterfly is a superior knot. I'm just trying to figure out if WB is trying to get us all killed.

Thom

Trad climber

South Orange County, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2006 - 09:55pm PT

Alan & Kristoffer,

You are probably tying the knot correctly; hard to know but...

Werner's knot is actually a modified version of an inline-eight.

The true inline eight requires that the tail of rope exiting the knot (upward in Werner's photo) should be exiting the knot on the same side as the loop, not the opposite side.

NOTE: Both versions will become a slip-knot if weighted opposite their intended direction of pull. Werner's version is just less likely to do so.

The key is understanding that this is an INLINE knot (the loop aligns itself parallel with the rope), intended for DIRECTIONAL pull (unlike the butterfly which is omni-directional).

The direction of pull on the inline-eight should be opposite the direction of the loop. Our discussion here relates to inverting an anchor and maintaining it in that orientation. This can be done using an inline-eight oriented DOWNWARD from your first piece toward the anchor and intended for an UPWARD pull should you fall (Werner's knot is oriented upward for a downward pull). Essentially, the loop and its' tail point TOWARD your anchor point; the single tail is the load end (to the climber).

A useful knot for certain applications.

Cheers,
Thom