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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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May 24, 2017 - 05:43pm PT
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It seems to me, that while I was in hospital with my stroke, Alexey visited me and told me that the tree in front of Scab Laborer partially fell and leaned right on to the crack, making the crack inaccessible.
My language centers were impaired, but that is what I heard. This will be a test of comprehension and memory. First and last ascent?
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carlaftw
Trad climber
San Jose, California
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May 24, 2017 - 06:03pm PT
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Thanks, Scuffy... we were hoping to hit Scab Laborer also but maybe that's out of the cards..? Hopefully some friends and I will be able to scope this weekend and see what things are like up there.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 24, 2017 - 08:27pm PT
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Alexey visited me and told me that the tree in front of Scab Laborer partially fell and leaned right on to the crack, making the crack inaccessible.
Steve, you passed the test, congratulations, everything was exactly as you say. here is the photos I made last summer:
EDITED day later: It is impossible to squeeze between huge tree trunk and the rock to finish the route .
This pine tree [ probably 100 years old] used to be vertical and presented on the topo I had, but now it leaning about 20 degrees and use Scab Laborer top as a pilar
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carlaftw
Trad climber
San Jose, California
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May 24, 2017 - 08:51pm PT
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Awesome, Kevin! Thank you so much, this helps a lot and is getting me way stoked!
I saw that 5.8 route and definitely will romp up that. Does the summit of MMP have a bolted anchor for the 5.9 and Med Man routes? Not sure if I understand what you mean by spike but I guess I'll see it when I get there..
It will definitely be cool to set a top rope on those upper pitches, that wall looks too cool. Hopefully we'll get on a little bit of everything. We'll probably be heading there sometime in the next few weeks so would be approaching from 120 but it looks doable from what I read above.
Anyone happen to have a photo of what the fallen tree looks like if still there? We might try to get it out if it's still covering the route. Do Scab Laborer and the other routes on that tier have bolted anchors?
Thank you again!
P.S. Any hints to where that bivy cave might be?
Edit: Just saw your post, Alexey. Wow! Looks like you could still get up a portion of the route. Do you think the tree could get pushed off the top or something?
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carlaftw
Trad climber
San Jose, California
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May 24, 2017 - 10:32pm PT
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Fantastic! Should be such an awesome adventure, I can't wait! Thanks so very much!
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carlaftw
Trad climber
San Jose, California
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May 25, 2017 - 05:22pm PT
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Alexey, sent you a pm, but also curious if you were able to top out Scab Laborer at all or does it need to be downclimbed?
Thank you again, Kevin! I sent you a pm as well.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 25, 2017 - 06:38pm PT
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carlaftw, [Carla?] - pm usually is not working for ST members who is not paying ST e-mail monthly fees[ $300]. You can set up top rope on Scab Laborer, but it not wery easy and you better have your climbing shoe on. I did not set top-rope { i was just exploring new place, but never returned] , but I scramble on top of the climb to evaluate would I be able to squeeze between the tree and rock or not. The answer is " I do not know". the space is marginal to have a clear answer without trying
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carlaftw
Trad climber
San Jose, California
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May 25, 2017 - 08:37pm PT
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Thanks, Alexey. It is Carla :) I guess we'll have to check it out and see. You mentioned you had a topo (is it just for Scab Laborer?) so I was just wondering if you'd be willing to share it? If not, no worry, Kevin gave me a lot of info as well. (also my massage therapist mentioned a local climber by your name recently..do you see Anthony Gilbert?)
Thanks, Kevin. Sent you an email!
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 26, 2017 - 10:33am PT
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do you see Anthony Gilbert? yes, he was trying to fix my elbow and partially succeeded .
About topo, - I can not pass it to you unfortunately, according to agreement with the party who own it, I had to eat the topo page after I used it and I did.
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carlaftw
Trad climber
San Jose, California
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May 26, 2017 - 11:31am PT
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I had to eat the topo page after I used it and I did.
Haha, awesome! No worry at all, I'm excited for just getting out there and going for it.
Good luck with the elbow!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 26, 2017 - 11:38am PT
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FOR THE WIN,
Ya got the touch! I hope the rope-guns going with you,
aren't blabbermouths!
I see the shares and respect those that have contributed.
You have had enough to go on since the beginning
Just Go,
the rocks will welcome you,
Please, for Karma's sake, Use judicious restraint
no posting any of this at the 'other' site, if I have a vote?
Edit:
Thanks Carlaftw, Carla, , that means a lot to me.
I held my breath and tougne when mouse posted
then,
risking the bumping to the top of the page. . .
I felt strongly enough to say what I said. . .
, I have to ask , you're all not much older than I, is this what I have to look forward to?
Spillin' the beans at the drop of an ask? not saying (nicely) "tie your own boot laces & go"
I would have just said " Yes !" It a great zone - go!"
I would think that is enough coming from those posting here
Just take off, bring food and boil water, I have to imagine that so many of us did.
The MMP! #!!{{@x@}}!!#
Seekers have been seeking along time . . . Just saying!,
Or is it that as magic places go, the goods are out on MMP,
and given the fire it sits in plain sight.
So directing folks there, is sparing the real magic, locals only zones? . .* thatz got to be it !
I'll probably go to my grave, never spilling the what/where
(exact location)
but there - there are is some 'Big Magic', magic spots . . .
At least to this short term not nearly often enough visitor. . .
Doc H ! Thank you for posting ! I think?
( This is where I'm screaming That Last name ! The long one that starts Rau. .m. )
It's what I do by way of praying ~
thanking the Cosmos for this life that I've lived; for the places I've been & things I've seen.
That place is special! yer killen me but I realize how amazing it was when I see again
Magic! I tell yeh, but you already know!
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carlaftw
Trad climber
San Jose, California
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May 26, 2017 - 12:30pm PT
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Gnome, I try and send out the good vibes so it looks like the universe has returned the favor in the form of gracious climbers!
We definitely aren't planning to post any info anywhere and my friends and I are just looking to enjoy a nice, quiet place for a while. Mostly I asked for a topo for my OCD/safety-paranoid self; exploring obscure places like this is a new thing for me..
Thank you again, everyone! I very much appreciate it!
-Carla
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 26, 2017 - 12:47pm PT
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!