Devil's Dancefloor

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 53 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 3, 2016 - 10:59pm PT
it's not bushwacking...
stay in the burned area, this old man made it up within an hour...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 3, 2016 - 11:05pm PT
Ed,
When did you last hike up there through the burned area?
Often brush tends to grow up in a burned area after a couple of years.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 4, 2016 - 12:44am PT
hey there say, katiebird... this is really nice...

thanks for sharing all this...
and all the info that came in, too, from folks...
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
May 4, 2016 - 11:51am PT
impressive Google tool, thanks. Is Scab Laborer cliff is one of those rocks formations?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 4, 2016 - 05:33pm PT
Thanks for the corrections, Kevin - I updated the terrain map overlay and the elevation gain.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
May 4, 2016 - 08:35pm PT
Mathis went in there with a large ski party.

They came in from Tamarack.

It's his preference any time of year.

He says don't forget to boogie.
stevep

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
May 4, 2016 - 08:46pm PT
Wait. I thought this thread was about this:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
May 5, 2016 - 11:35am PT
I've gone in from the spot on 120 that Kevin favors, and from the spot indicated by Ed. The bushwhacking was not bad from where Ed went, but Kevin's route is cooler and shorter. I've gone in from the campground as well. Pleasantly short. My first time in, though, was by a seriously inferior route which started further down toward the Foresta road.
Never did quite get anyone to commit to Scab Laborer. I climbed up and down a good chunk of the lower part. I'm guessing the hard part is leaving the little alcove of the lower section. The crack gradually widens, though, so maybe there's a dread size issue higher up, like too big for heel/toes or something.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Jun 16, 2016 - 03:11pm PT

Warbler, Scuffy b
Probably will try the trip for suffering at Scab Laborer.
east-south facing Scab Laborer? on second tear is this a correct place with red Arrow on my GE screenshot ?
If I am coming from Tamarack Flat shell I go to Medicine Man Rappels and approach Scab Labores from the bottom or better find the top of the SL and rappel from anchor bolts [if any]
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Jun 20, 2016 - 01:31pm PT
bump with my question for Warbler and Scuffy b
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 20, 2016 - 09:58pm PT
it's easy to walk down the west side and circumnavigate the base,
I believe your arrow for the Medicine Man is pointing at the wrong place, the correct location is the formation just before the one you've drawn, along the arrow direction, with the prominent dihedral

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
Jun 20, 2016 - 10:09pm PT
whoa!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 21, 2016 - 01:29am PT
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 21, 2016 - 12:09pm PT
Just following your lead!
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Jun 21, 2016 - 06:09pm PT
wow, just had to work two days and did not have chance to check ST.
Now I got everything I can possibly wish. Thanks you Ed, Warbler and Clint!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 21, 2016 - 09:15pm PT
here's one more thing...
bob

climber
Jun 22, 2016 - 01:26pm PT
That place is a great hang. The climbing I've done not too shabby!

Warbler, I messaged you. Looking for some other info.
carlaftw

Trad climber
San Jose, California
May 24, 2017 - 03:42pm PT
Place looks so cool and I've been eyeing the formation from Foresta, good to know it actually does have routes. Is there any other info available (topo/beta) for the routes besides this thread that someone would be willing to share (pm is fine)?

Interested in moderate (mid-10s) routes, slab/faces/cracks.. does anyone know the condition of Headhunters or any other moderate slab routes? Any potential for topropes on the hard faces?? Does one know what the other cracks might go at near Scab Laborer?

Likely I will take at least one trip up there to scope things out but hoping to know a little more so I'm not too in over my head.

Thanks so much in advance!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 24, 2017 - 04:18pm PT
Interested in moderate (mid-10s) routes, slab/faces/cracks..
The climbs at DDF are mostly 5.11s.

There are many good 5.10 slabs at:
 Arches Terrace
 Glacier Point Apron
 Middle Cathedral North Face Apron
carlaftw

Trad climber
San Jose, California
May 24, 2017 - 04:42pm PT
Thanks, Clint. I read that most faces were 5.11s but wasn't sure because I saw that one Bacher/Cashner route that I'm hoping to check out... I have friends down for the those 11s but was seeing if there might be more in the way for me to lead as well. Someone said there are plenty of cracks around SL, any chance you know what they might go at?

Messages 21 - 40 of total 53 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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