Discussion Topic |
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katiebird
climber
yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 7, 2011 - 02:39am PT
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Is there any route beta for this place?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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This the place?
Hi Katie!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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It sounds scary.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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A list mostly constructed from one of Kevin Worrall's posts.
Devil's Dance Floor (approach from Tamarack Flat campground)
DDF - Upper Tier
698. Scab Laborer 5.11c TR, steep 7 inch ow, 60', cliffband above/west of DDF main wall
DDF - Lower Tier
699. Headhunter 5.10b R/X, wall W of MMP, slab, F, ST
700. MMP - Notch to Rim Escape route 5.8, bolted, ST
701. Medicine Man 5.11c, arete to steep face water grooves, west of main DDF slab, ST
702. MMP cracks, one wide, in clean RFC
703. new DDF KW sport routes, 10-12 routes, mostly 5.11 a few 12s, steep slab
704. Back in Black 5.11+, (one of the 10-12 sport routes), ST
705. Gold Fever 5.11+, 2p, (one of the 10-12 sport routes), ST
706. El Dorado 5.11+, 3p, far R side, p1 6' roof, p2 12a slab, p3 5.11+ slab
707. Crack The Barrier 5.11+, on satellite cliff E of DDF (or E of MMP?)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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email Scuffy...
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utahman912
Social climber
SLC, UT
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Is there a route there? I just skated on top :-)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Yo, steep slabs are soooo yesterday.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Anders' photo isn't it, I believe....
I've been to both the Devil's Dancefloor and to Shuteye and I'd say the rock is not that similar, but both are amazing places... The Devil's Dancefloor reminds me a lot more of Tuolumne in it's steep southern aspects, though there are amazing features on faces too...
Many attractive arete's, faces, and lots of crack climbing, sort of half-pitch to a few pitch length, easy to hard...
lots of potential fun stuff:
a climb on the left arete, and up the corner, but there is more!
there are three routes in this image:
a magical place...
gotta get to work! more later...
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katiebird
climber
yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2011 - 01:08pm PT
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Thanks folks! Hi Anders. Went up there the other day on a recon - looks killer. The developed routes I did see look like great quality. MMP seems like some of the best edging, face climbing. The roof Worral is talking about looks pretty wild. And the slab is probably some of the most solid rock in Yosemite - definitely has some more potential. Can't wait to go back.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Rick and I did another obvious crack line to the left of Scab Labor. I can't remember the name though. I think Scab Labor might be a wee bit harder than 11c.
Ken
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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In return for a modest donation to the YCA, I'd be willing to reveal its location.
Is it somewhere near the Devil's Dancefloor?
When Amundsen and his men went to the South Pole, a century ago, they encountered a section that they named the Devil's Dance-floor (or Ballroom). In about 85 or 86 degrees south, with lots of collapsing crust and some crevasses.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Ed,
In the "a climb on the left arete, and up the corner, but there is more!", the climb up the corner looks like about the best climb that has have ever existed. I'm all ears.
Darwin
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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P.S. Kevin, your topos in the new edition are very nice, and it will be published once we have tidied up the other updates.
(The list I posted above does not include all the known climbs; just the ones that have been posted in this forum).
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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A year or two ago I passed by the area, but it was guarded by a dragon. Here you can see its smoke and fire, by the creek.
But there are nice views.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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how to get Devil's Dancefloor easiest way?
From Tamarack flat campground or from hw120? Any reasonable description for trail? thanks
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I think the best way is from Big Oak Flat Rd (we call it "120") in the Valley, walk up the hill...
not sure you can get in from Tamarak Flat yet, but if you could I still think it is better, and faster to go in from the Valley...
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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thanks Ed. It looks like Devil's Dancefloor wall exposed to the west, so I expect morning shade if ever check this 7" Rick Cashner crack
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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John told me ... it was ok with him if I retro-bolted it to make it not-so-runout.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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thank you Kevin!, I hope your detailed description will save my old and painful ankles from intense bushwhacking
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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it's not bushwacking...
stay in the burned area, this old man made it up within an hour...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Ed,
When did you last hike up there through the burned area?
Often brush tends to grow up in a burned area after a couple of years.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, katiebird... this is really nice...
thanks for sharing all this...
and all the info that came in, too, from folks...
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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impressive Google tool, thanks. Is Scab Laborer cliff is one of those rocks formations?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Thanks for the corrections, Kevin - I updated the terrain map overlay and the elevation gain.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mathis went in there with a large ski party.
They came in from Tamarack.
It's his preference any time of year.
He says don't forget to boogie.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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I've gone in from the spot on 120 that Kevin favors, and from the spot indicated by Ed. The bushwhacking was not bad from where Ed went, but Kevin's route is cooler and shorter. I've gone in from the campground as well. Pleasantly short. My first time in, though, was by a seriously inferior route which started further down toward the Foresta road.
Never did quite get anyone to commit to Scab Laborer. I climbed up and down a good chunk of the lower part. I'm guessing the hard part is leaving the little alcove of the lower section. The crack gradually widens, though, so maybe there's a dread size issue higher up, like too big for heel/toes or something.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 16, 2016 - 03:11pm PT
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Warbler, Scuffy b
Probably will try the trip for suffering at Scab Laborer.
east-south facing Scab Laborer? on second tear is this a correct place with red Arrow on my GE screenshot ?
If I am coming from Tamarack Flat shell I go to Medicine Man Rappels and approach Scab Labores from the bottom or better find the top of the SL and rappel from anchor bolts [if any]
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 20, 2016 - 01:31pm PT
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bump with my question for Warbler and Scuffy b
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 20, 2016 - 09:58pm PT
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it's easy to walk down the west side and circumnavigate the base,
I believe your arrow for the Medicine Man is pointing at the wrong place, the correct location is the formation just before the one you've drawn, along the arrow direction, with the prominent dihedral
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Jun 20, 2016 - 10:09pm PT
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whoa!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 21, 2016 - 01:29am PT
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 21, 2016 - 12:09pm PT
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Just following your lead!
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 21, 2016 - 06:09pm PT
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wow, just had to work two days and did not have chance to check ST.
Now I got everything I can possibly wish. Thanks you Ed, Warbler and Clint!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 21, 2016 - 09:15pm PT
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here's one more thing...
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bob
climber
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Jun 22, 2016 - 01:26pm PT
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That place is a great hang. The climbing I've done not too shabby!
Warbler, I messaged you. Looking for some other info.
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carlaftw
Trad climber
San Jose, California
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May 24, 2017 - 03:42pm PT
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Place looks so cool and I've been eyeing the formation from Foresta, good to know it actually does have routes. Is there any other info available (topo/beta) for the routes besides this thread that someone would be willing to share (pm is fine)?
Interested in moderate (mid-10s) routes, slab/faces/cracks.. does anyone know the condition of Headhunters or any other moderate slab routes? Any potential for topropes on the hard faces?? Does one know what the other cracks might go at near Scab Laborer?
Likely I will take at least one trip up there to scope things out but hoping to know a little more so I'm not too in over my head.
Thanks so much in advance!
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carlaftw
Trad climber
San Jose, California
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May 24, 2017 - 04:42pm PT
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Thanks, Clint. I read that most faces were 5.11s but wasn't sure because I saw that one Bacher/Cashner route that I'm hoping to check out... I have friends down for the those 11s but was seeing if there might be more in the way for me to lead as well. Someone said there are plenty of cracks around SL, any chance you know what they might go at?
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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May 24, 2017 - 05:43pm PT
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It seems to me, that while I was in hospital with my stroke, Alexey visited me and told me that the tree in front of Scab Laborer partially fell and leaned right on to the crack, making the crack inaccessible.
My language centers were impaired, but that is what I heard. This will be a test of comprehension and memory. First and last ascent?
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carlaftw
Trad climber
San Jose, California
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May 24, 2017 - 06:03pm PT
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Thanks, Scuffy... we were hoping to hit Scab Laborer also but maybe that's out of the cards..? Hopefully some friends and I will be able to scope this weekend and see what things are like up there.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 24, 2017 - 08:27pm PT
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Alexey visited me and told me that the tree in front of Scab Laborer partially fell and leaned right on to the crack, making the crack inaccessible.
Steve, you passed the test, congratulations, everything was exactly as you say. here is the photos I made last summer:
EDITED day later: It is impossible to squeeze between huge tree trunk and the rock to finish the route .
This pine tree [ probably 100 years old] used to be vertical and presented on the topo I had, but now it leaning about 20 degrees and use Scab Laborer top as a pilar
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carlaftw
Trad climber
San Jose, California
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May 24, 2017 - 08:51pm PT
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Awesome, Kevin! Thank you so much, this helps a lot and is getting me way stoked!
I saw that 5.8 route and definitely will romp up that. Does the summit of MMP have a bolted anchor for the 5.9 and Med Man routes? Not sure if I understand what you mean by spike but I guess I'll see it when I get there..
It will definitely be cool to set a top rope on those upper pitches, that wall looks too cool. Hopefully we'll get on a little bit of everything. We'll probably be heading there sometime in the next few weeks so would be approaching from 120 but it looks doable from what I read above.
Anyone happen to have a photo of what the fallen tree looks like if still there? We might try to get it out if it's still covering the route. Do Scab Laborer and the other routes on that tier have bolted anchors?
Thank you again!
P.S. Any hints to where that bivy cave might be?
Edit: Just saw your post, Alexey. Wow! Looks like you could still get up a portion of the route. Do you think the tree could get pushed off the top or something?
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carlaftw
Trad climber
San Jose, California
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May 24, 2017 - 10:32pm PT
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Fantastic! Should be such an awesome adventure, I can't wait! Thanks so very much!
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carlaftw
Trad climber
San Jose, California
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May 25, 2017 - 05:22pm PT
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Alexey, sent you a pm, but also curious if you were able to top out Scab Laborer at all or does it need to be downclimbed?
Thank you again, Kevin! I sent you a pm as well.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 25, 2017 - 06:38pm PT
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carlaftw, [Carla?] - pm usually is not working for ST members who is not paying ST e-mail monthly fees[ $300]. You can set up top rope on Scab Laborer, but it not wery easy and you better have your climbing shoe on. I did not set top-rope { i was just exploring new place, but never returned] , but I scramble on top of the climb to evaluate would I be able to squeeze between the tree and rock or not. The answer is " I do not know". the space is marginal to have a clear answer without trying
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carlaftw
Trad climber
San Jose, California
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May 25, 2017 - 08:37pm PT
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Thanks, Alexey. It is Carla :) I guess we'll have to check it out and see. You mentioned you had a topo (is it just for Scab Laborer?) so I was just wondering if you'd be willing to share it? If not, no worry, Kevin gave me a lot of info as well. (also my massage therapist mentioned a local climber by your name recently..do you see Anthony Gilbert?)
Thanks, Kevin. Sent you an email!
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 26, 2017 - 10:33am PT
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do you see Anthony Gilbert? yes, he was trying to fix my elbow and partially succeeded .
About topo, - I can not pass it to you unfortunately, according to agreement with the party who own it, I had to eat the topo page after I used it and I did.
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carlaftw
Trad climber
San Jose, California
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May 26, 2017 - 11:31am PT
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I had to eat the topo page after I used it and I did.
Haha, awesome! No worry at all, I'm excited for just getting out there and going for it.
Good luck with the elbow!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 26, 2017 - 11:38am PT
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FOR THE WIN,
Ya got the touch! I hope the rope-guns going with you,
aren't blabbermouths!
I see the shares and respect those that have contributed.
You have had enough to go on since the beginning
Just Go,
the rocks will welcome you,
Please, for Karma's sake, Use judicious restraint
no posting any of this at the 'other' site, if I have a vote?
Edit:
Thanks Carlaftw, Carla, , that means a lot to me.
I held my breath and tougne when mouse posted
then,
risking the bumping to the top of the page. . .
I felt strongly enough to say what I said. . .
, I have to ask , you're all not much older than I, is this what I have to look forward to?
Spillin' the beans at the drop of an ask? not saying (nicely) "tie your own boot laces & go"
I would have just said " Yes !" It a great zone - go!"
I would think that is enough coming from those posting here
Just take off, bring food and boil water, I have to imagine that so many of us did.
The MMP! #!!{{@x@}}!!#
Seekers have been seeking along time . . . Just saying!,
Or is it that as magic places go, the goods are out on MMP,
and given the fire it sits in plain sight.
So directing folks there, is sparing the real magic, locals only zones? . .* thatz got to be it !
I'll probably go to my grave, never spilling the what/where
(exact location)
but there - there are is some 'Big Magic', magic spots . . .
At least to this short term not nearly often enough visitor. . .
Doc H ! Thank you for posting ! I think?
( This is where I'm screaming That Last name ! The long one that starts Rau. .m. )
It's what I do by way of praying ~
thanking the Cosmos for this life that I've lived; for the places I've been & things I've seen.
That place is special! yer killen me but I realize how amazing it was when I see again
Magic! I tell yeh, but you already know!
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carlaftw
Trad climber
San Jose, California
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May 26, 2017 - 12:30pm PT
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Gnome, I try and send out the good vibes so it looks like the universe has returned the favor in the form of gracious climbers!
We definitely aren't planning to post any info anywhere and my friends and I are just looking to enjoy a nice, quiet place for a while. Mostly I asked for a topo for my OCD/safety-paranoid self; exploring obscure places like this is a new thing for me..
Thank you again, everyone! I very much appreciate it!
-Carla
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 26, 2017 - 12:47pm PT
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| Messages 1 - 53 of total 53 in this topic |
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SuperTopo on the Web
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400' gain from Tamarack Flat Campground
Let us know!