Devil's Dancefloor

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 20 of total 53 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
katiebird

climber
yosemite
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 7, 2011 - 02:39am PT
Is there any route beta for this place?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 7, 2011 - 02:42am PT
This the place?

Hi Katie!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 7, 2011 - 02:50am PT
It sounds scary.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 7, 2011 - 08:49am PT
A list mostly constructed from one of Kevin Worrall's posts.

Devil's Dance Floor (approach from Tamarack Flat campground)

DDF - Upper Tier

698. Scab Laborer 5.11c TR, steep 7 inch ow, 60', cliffband above/west of DDF main wall

DDF - Lower Tier

699. Headhunter 5.10b R/X, wall W of MMP, slab, F, ST

700. MMP - Notch to Rim Escape route 5.8, bolted, ST
701. Medicine Man 5.11c, arete to steep face water grooves, west of main DDF slab, ST
702. MMP cracks, one wide, in clean RFC
703. new DDF KW sport routes, 10-12 routes, mostly 5.11 a few 12s, steep slab
704. Back in Black 5.11+, (one of the 10-12 sport routes), ST
705. Gold Fever 5.11+, 2p, (one of the 10-12 sport routes), ST
706. El Dorado 5.11+, 3p, far R side, p1 6' roof, p2 12a slab, p3 5.11+ slab

707. Crack The Barrier 5.11+, on satellite cliff E of DDF (or E of MMP?)
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 7, 2011 - 09:32am PT
email Scuffy...
utahman912

Social climber
SLC, UT
Jul 7, 2011 - 10:29am PT
Is there a route there? I just skated on top :-)

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 7, 2011 - 10:30am PT
Yo, steep slabs are soooo yesterday.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 7, 2011 - 10:48am PT
Anders' photo isn't it, I believe....

I've been to both the Devil's Dancefloor and to Shuteye and I'd say the rock is not that similar, but both are amazing places... The Devil's Dancefloor reminds me a lot more of Tuolumne in it's steep southern aspects, though there are amazing features on faces too...

Many attractive arete's, faces, and lots of crack climbing, sort of half-pitch to a few pitch length, easy to hard...

lots of potential fun stuff:


a climb on the left arete, and up the corner, but there is more!

there are three routes in this image:


a magical place...

gotta get to work! more later...
katiebird

climber
yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2011 - 01:08pm PT
Thanks folks! Hi Anders. Went up there the other day on a recon - looks killer. The developed routes I did see look like great quality. MMP seems like some of the best edging, face climbing. The roof Worral is talking about looks pretty wild. And the slab is probably some of the most solid rock in Yosemite - definitely has some more potential. Can't wait to go back.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Jul 8, 2011 - 12:42am PT
Rick and I did another obvious crack line to the left of Scab Labor. I can't remember the name though. I think Scab Labor might be a wee bit harder than 11c.

Ken
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 8, 2011 - 01:18am PT
In return for a modest donation to the YCA, I'd be willing to reveal its location.

Is it somewhere near the Devil's Dancefloor?

When Amundsen and his men went to the South Pole, a century ago, they encountered a section that they named the Devil's Dance-floor (or Ballroom). In about 85 or 86 degrees south, with lots of collapsing crust and some crevasses.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 8, 2011 - 01:24am PT
Ed,

In the "a climb on the left arete, and up the corner, but there is more!", the climb up the corner looks like about the best climb that has have ever existed. I'm all ears.

Darwin
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 8, 2011 - 03:22am PT

P.S. Kevin, your topos in the new edition are very nice, and it will be published once we have tidied up the other updates.
(The list I posted above does not include all the known climbs; just the ones that have been posted in this forum).
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 8, 2011 - 01:21pm PT
A year or two ago I passed by the area, but it was guarded by a dragon. Here you can see its smoke and fire, by the creek.

But there are nice views.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
May 3, 2016 - 08:47pm PT
how to get Devil's Dancefloor easiest way?
From Tamarack flat campground or from hw120? Any reasonable description for trail? thanks

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 3, 2016 - 09:15pm PT
I think the best way is from Big Oak Flat Rd (we call it "120") in the Valley, walk up the hill...
not sure you can get in from Tamarak Flat yet, but if you could I still think it is better, and faster to go in from the Valley...

Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
May 3, 2016 - 09:28pm PT
thanks Ed. It looks like Devil's Dancefloor wall exposed to the west, so I expect morning shade if ever check this 7" Rick Cashner crack
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
May 3, 2016 - 09:44pm PT
John told me ... it was ok with him if I retro-bolted it to make it not-so-runout.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
May 3, 2016 - 09:52pm PT
thank you Kevin!, I hope your detailed description will save my old and painful ankles from intense bushwhacking
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 3, 2016 - 10:48pm PT
Thanks for the detailed descriptions, Kevin.
The above terrain map should show it.
 400' gain from Tamarack Flat Campground
 1100' gain from 120
[Edited]
Messages 1 - 20 of total 53 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta