Discussion Topic |
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katiebird
climber
yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 7, 2011 - 02:39am PT
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Is there any route beta for this place?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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This the place?
Hi Katie!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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It sounds scary.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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A list mostly constructed from one of Kevin Worrall's posts.
Devil's Dance Floor (approach from Tamarack Flat campground)
DDF - Upper Tier
698. Scab Laborer 5.11c TR, steep 7 inch ow, 60', cliffband above/west of DDF main wall
DDF - Lower Tier
699. Headhunter 5.10b R/X, wall W of MMP, slab, F, ST
700. MMP - Notch to Rim Escape route 5.8, bolted, ST
701. Medicine Man 5.11c, arete to steep face water grooves, west of main DDF slab, ST
702. MMP cracks, one wide, in clean RFC
703. new DDF KW sport routes, 10-12 routes, mostly 5.11 a few 12s, steep slab
704. Back in Black 5.11+, (one of the 10-12 sport routes), ST
705. Gold Fever 5.11+, 2p, (one of the 10-12 sport routes), ST
706. El Dorado 5.11+, 3p, far R side, p1 6' roof, p2 12a slab, p3 5.11+ slab
707. Crack The Barrier 5.11+, on satellite cliff E of DDF (or E of MMP?)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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email Scuffy...
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utahman912
Social climber
SLC, UT
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Is there a route there? I just skated on top :-)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Yo, steep slabs are soooo yesterday.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Anders' photo isn't it, I believe....
I've been to both the Devil's Dancefloor and to Shuteye and I'd say the rock is not that similar, but both are amazing places... The Devil's Dancefloor reminds me a lot more of Tuolumne in it's steep southern aspects, though there are amazing features on faces too...
Many attractive arete's, faces, and lots of crack climbing, sort of half-pitch to a few pitch length, easy to hard...
lots of potential fun stuff:
a climb on the left arete, and up the corner, but there is more!
there are three routes in this image:
a magical place...
gotta get to work! more later...
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katiebird
climber
yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2011 - 01:08pm PT
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Thanks folks! Hi Anders. Went up there the other day on a recon - looks killer. The developed routes I did see look like great quality. MMP seems like some of the best edging, face climbing. The roof Worral is talking about looks pretty wild. And the slab is probably some of the most solid rock in Yosemite - definitely has some more potential. Can't wait to go back.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Rick and I did another obvious crack line to the left of Scab Labor. I can't remember the name though. I think Scab Labor might be a wee bit harder than 11c.
Ken
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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In return for a modest donation to the YCA, I'd be willing to reveal its location.
Is it somewhere near the Devil's Dancefloor?
When Amundsen and his men went to the South Pole, a century ago, they encountered a section that they named the Devil's Dance-floor (or Ballroom). In about 85 or 86 degrees south, with lots of collapsing crust and some crevasses.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Ed,
In the "a climb on the left arete, and up the corner, but there is more!", the climb up the corner looks like about the best climb that has have ever existed. I'm all ears.
Darwin
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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P.S. Kevin, your topos in the new edition are very nice, and it will be published once we have tidied up the other updates.
(The list I posted above does not include all the known climbs; just the ones that have been posted in this forum).
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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A year or two ago I passed by the area, but it was guarded by a dragon. Here you can see its smoke and fire, by the creek.
But there are nice views.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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how to get Devil's Dancefloor easiest way?
From Tamarack flat campground or from hw120? Any reasonable description for trail? thanks
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I think the best way is from Big Oak Flat Rd (we call it "120") in the Valley, walk up the hill...
not sure you can get in from Tamarak Flat yet, but if you could I still think it is better, and faster to go in from the Valley...
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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thanks Ed. It looks like Devil's Dancefloor wall exposed to the west, so I expect morning shade if ever check this 7" Rick Cashner crack
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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John told me ... it was ok with him if I retro-bolted it to make it not-so-runout.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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thank you Kevin!, I hope your detailed description will save my old and painful ankles from intense bushwhacking
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