BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 17, 2011 - 09:45am PT
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Wall Tacos... I'm thinking of doing another El Cap route this year and these three make up my short list. Any opinions/preferences? I know a fair bit about Mescalito and have done some of its pitches while on the Dawn Wall, so I'm perhaps more interested in comments/experiences about Sunkist and Magic Mush, but I'm open to all opinions and information. Thanks!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jan 17, 2011 - 11:28am PT
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bump for the brass
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Mike.
climber
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Jan 17, 2011 - 11:41am PT
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Hey, Brassman,
If you like big features, history and don't view flaring cracks as bad, Mushroom is very good. Only one bolt added on the immediate route during the free effort. A couple others within reach which don't detract heavily.
Sunkist is reputed to be good quality, but any EC route that starts halfway up the wall automatically gets downgraded in my mind. Basically a variation compared to the other two.
Mesca gets way more traffic than either. That's a negative IMO. But the consistent difficulty and position of the route are brilliant.
Glad to hear you're going big. Enjoy the process...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 17, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
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Do the 'Shroom
I did 'scalito in the last century and thought it was excellent, pretty crowded these days.
The post above makes a good point about Sunkist. Whenever I think of it I remember Slater Slobbering about "a thousand feet of tiny placements" or what ever it was. I made a note then to put it at the back of the list.
When the colonel and I did The shield I kept looking over at MM, it intrigued me. I was drawn to it. A very cool line, in a superb location, with spectacular features.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 17, 2011 - 12:24pm PT
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pics are always pretty cool too. (hint...hint)
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Jeremy
Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jan 17, 2011 - 12:27pm PT
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I would suggest...
that...
YER GONNA DIE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Jan 17, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
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WooHoo BrassNuts is going Big Walling thats what some of us like to see here on ST. Alot depends on when you are planning on going. Agree with Mike in that Mecalito will more than likely see a little more traffic but still if you have not done the whole route it is one for the list for sure. Both Magic Mushroom and Sunkist have a lot of merit. Sunkist has some really stellar rock up there and will not disappoint IMO. Heck just spend some extra time in the valley and do both.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 17, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
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Sooooooo,........... the list was made using only route names that refer to hallucinogens.
Coincidence?
Riiiiiiiiight.:)
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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Jan 17, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
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+1 Magic Mushroom. Spectacular.
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fattrad
Mountain climber
GOP Convention
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Jan 17, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
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Dave,
Nice that you're making plans for after rehab.
The evil one
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jan 17, 2011 - 01:31pm PT
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Do Magic Mushroom -- and post lots of pics. Even though it's the oldest of the three routes, it's also the one about which I know the least.
John
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FrankZappa
Trad climber
80' from the Hankster
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Jan 17, 2011 - 01:54pm PT
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I would suggest sticking to the right side of El Cap.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 17, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
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Haven't heard of MM being at the top of any experienced climber's best of El Cap list. Yeah - lots of flared cracks is what I always hear first.. Agree about Sunkist only being half of an El Cap route. Check Tom's El Cap reports for views of the train up Mescalito. That's got to be mind numbing - following cracks so worn from traffic up one of the longest sections of the wall. What about one of the routes near Mescalito? South Seas to Space is pretty proud. P.O. Wall used to be more popular, etc. Native Son?
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 17, 2011 - 04:40pm PT
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Do Sunkist.
Magic Mushroom is in deep flaring awkward corners.
Mescalito is over done trade route.
Sunkist will be your fun in the sun ..... :-)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 17, 2011 - 04:40pm PT
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lots of flared cracks is what I always hear first
Does it get better than that? What else is there in life?
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jan 17, 2011 - 04:45pm PT
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Well, Mescalito is the only one on the SE face. The others are just slab routes for the first half.
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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Jan 17, 2011 - 05:18pm PT
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"Just slab routes for the first half".....Give it a shot & see if you survive. I dunno......
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jan 17, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
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Have you done the Muir?
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BooYah
Social climber
Ely, Nv
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Jan 17, 2011 - 05:25pm PT
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Mushroom goes from the ground. Significant?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!