Sunkist vs. Magic Mushroom vs. Mescalito?


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Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 17, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
Wall Tacos... I'm thinking of doing another El Cap route this year and these three make up my short list. Any opinions/preferences? I know a fair bit about Mescalito and have done some of its pitches while on the Dawn Wall, so I'm perhaps more interested in comments/experiences about Sunkist and Magic Mush, but I'm open to all opinions and information. Thanks!

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jan 17, 2011 - 02:28pm PT
bump for the brass

Jan 17, 2011 - 02:41pm PT
Hey, Brassman,

If you like big features, history and don't view flaring cracks as bad, Mushroom is very good. Only one bolt added on the immediate route during the free effort. A couple others within reach which don't detract heavily.

Sunkist is reputed to be good quality, but any EC route that starts halfway up the wall automatically gets downgraded in my mind. Basically a variation compared to the other two.

Mesca gets way more traffic than either. That's a negative IMO. But the consistent difficulty and position of the route are brilliant.

Glad to hear you're going big. Enjoy the process...

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 17, 2011 - 03:16pm PT
Do the 'Shroom

I did 'scalito in the last century and thought it was excellent, pretty crowded these days.

The post above makes a good point about Sunkist. Whenever I think of it I remember Slater Slobbering about "a thousand feet of tiny placements" or what ever it was. I made a note then to put it at the back of the list.

When the colonel and I did The shield I kept looking over at MM, it intrigued me. I was drawn to it. A very cool line, in a superb location, with spectacular features.

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Jan 17, 2011 - 03:24pm PT
pics are always pretty cool too. (hint...hint)

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jan 17, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
I would suggest...


YER GONNA DIE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
Jan 17, 2011 - 03:32pm PT
WooHoo BrassNuts is going Big Walling thats what some of us like to see here on ST. Alot depends on when you are planning on going. Agree with Mike in that Mecalito will more than likely see a little more traffic but still if you have not done the whole route it is one for the list for sure. Both Magic Mushroom and Sunkist have a lot of merit. Sunkist has some really stellar rock up there and will not disappoint IMO. Heck just spend some extra time in the valley and do both.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jan 17, 2011 - 03:51pm PT
Sooooooo,........... the list was made using only route names that refer to hallucinogens.



Big Wall climber
total Disarray
Jan 17, 2011 - 04:04pm PT
+1 Magic Mushroom. Spectacular.

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jan 17, 2011 - 04:31pm PT
Do Magic Mushroom -- and post lots of pics. Even though it's the oldest of the three routes, it's also the one about which I know the least.


Trad climber
80' from the Hankster
Jan 17, 2011 - 04:54pm PT
I would suggest sticking to the right side of El Cap.

Social climber
The internet
Jan 17, 2011 - 05:15pm PT
Haven't heard of MM being at the top of any experienced climber's best of El Cap list. Yeah - lots of flared cracks is what I always hear first.. Agree about Sunkist only being half of an El Cap route. Check Tom's El Cap reports for views of the train up Mescalito. That's got to be mind numbing - following cracks so worn from traffic up one of the longest sections of the wall. What about one of the routes near Mescalito? South Seas to Space is pretty proud. P.O. Wall used to be more popular, etc. Native Son?

Jan 17, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
Do Sunkist.

Magic Mushroom is in deep flaring awkward corners.

Mescalito is over done trade route.

Sunkist will be your fun in the sun ..... :-)


Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 17, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
lots of flared cracks is what I always hear first

Does it get better than that? What else is there in life?

Trad climber
Jan 17, 2011 - 07:41pm PT
I'm sure you've seen this one?

Am I still in the running as your partner? If so when are we thinking about doing this?


Trad climber
Jan 17, 2011 - 07:45pm PT
Well, Mescalito is the only one on the SE face. The others are just slab routes for the first half.


Big Wall climber
total Disarray
Jan 17, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
"Just slab routes for the first half".....Give it a shot & see if you survive. I dunno......

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Jan 17, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
Have you done the Muir?

Social climber
Ely, Nv
Jan 17, 2011 - 08:25pm PT
Mushroom goes from the ground. Significant?

Trad climber
Jan 17, 2011 - 08:28pm PT
Do people actually do the real start of MM...or do most just jug to Mammoth to avoid the yukky slab? The better way?
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