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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 17, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
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Wall Tacos... I'm thinking of doing another El Cap route this year and these three make up my short list. Any opinions/preferences? I know a fair bit about Mescalito and have done some of its pitches while on the Dawn Wall, so I'm perhaps more interested in comments/experiences about Sunkist and Magic Mush, but I'm open to all opinions and information. Thanks!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jan 17, 2011 - 02:28pm PT
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bump for the brass
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 17, 2011 - 03:16pm PT
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Do the 'Shroom
I did 'scalito in the last century and thought it was excellent, pretty crowded these days.
The post above makes a good point about Sunkist. Whenever I think of it I remember Slater Slobbering about "a thousand feet of tiny placements" or what ever it was. I made a note then to put it at the back of the list.
When the colonel and I did The shield I kept looking over at MM, it intrigued me. I was drawn to it. A very cool line, in a superb location, with spectacular features.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 17, 2011 - 03:24pm PT
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pics are always pretty cool too. (hint...hint)
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Jan 17, 2011 - 03:32pm PT
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WooHoo BrassNuts is going Big Walling thats what some of us like to see here on ST. Alot depends on when you are planning on going. Agree with Mike in that Mecalito will more than likely see a little more traffic but still if you have not done the whole route it is one for the list for sure. Both Magic Mushroom and Sunkist have a lot of merit. Sunkist has some really stellar rock up there and will not disappoint IMO. Heck just spend some extra time in the valley and do both.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 17, 2011 - 03:51pm PT
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Sooooooo,........... the list was made using only route names that refer to hallucinogens.
Coincidence?
Riiiiiiiiight.:)
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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Jan 17, 2011 - 04:04pm PT
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+1 Magic Mushroom. Spectacular.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jan 17, 2011 - 04:31pm PT
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Do Magic Mushroom -- and post lots of pics. Even though it's the oldest of the three routes, it's also the one about which I know the least.
John
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FrankZappa
Trad climber
80' from the Hankster
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Jan 17, 2011 - 04:54pm PT
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I would suggest sticking to the right side of El Cap.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 17, 2011 - 05:15pm PT
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Haven't heard of MM being at the top of any experienced climber's best of El Cap list. Yeah - lots of flared cracks is what I always hear first.. Agree about Sunkist only being half of an El Cap route. Check Tom's El Cap reports for views of the train up Mescalito. That's got to be mind numbing - following cracks so worn from traffic up one of the longest sections of the wall. What about one of the routes near Mescalito? South Seas to Space is pretty proud. P.O. Wall used to be more popular, etc. Native Son?
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 17, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
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Do Sunkist.
Magic Mushroom is in deep flaring awkward corners.
Mescalito is over done trade route.
Sunkist will be your fun in the sun ..... :-)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 17, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
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lots of flared cracks is what I always hear first
Does it get better than that? What else is there in life?
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jan 17, 2011 - 07:45pm PT
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Well, Mescalito is the only one on the SE face. The others are just slab routes for the first half.
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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Jan 17, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
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"Just slab routes for the first half".....Give it a shot & see if you survive. I dunno......
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jan 17, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
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Have you done the Muir?
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BooYah
Social climber
Ely, Nv
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Jan 17, 2011 - 08:25pm PT
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Mushroom goes from the ground. Significant?
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jan 17, 2011 - 08:28pm PT
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Do people actually do the real start of MM...or do most just jug to Mammoth to avoid the yukky slab? The better way?
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Jan 17, 2011 - 08:35pm PT
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Most people go to Mammoth and avoid the bottom 10 pitches of slabbing aid. Mescalito is probably the most climbing of the three and has great position as does Sunkist up high. Almost any big ElCap route is worth doing for sure. Let me know when you are going and I'll try to make you famous... unless you bail and then you will be infamous! ;)
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