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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 19, 2011 - 01:51pm PT
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I'd say if you've done the Dawn Wall, slide over to the left, though I don't think having another party on the same route is that bad. A little company can be fun.
From what I've heard, hard to go wrong with either Sunkist or MM. I was trying to ogle both when I did the Shield in the early 90s. Same stretch of awesome orange granite. In fact, I tried to talk my partner in coming back the following year to climb Sunkist, but he demurred. If I can ever manage another trip up the Captain, it'll probably be Sunkist.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2011 - 12:31am PT
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More good opinions and pics, thanks everyone! Cheers to those who asked about my arm - its doing pretty well - officially "healed" in 2 more weeks, so I'll start doing some weenie routes in the gym at that point. Currently doing my high rep, low weight exercises to try and get everything firing again - it's gonna take some work! Here's an old pic of my buddy Quinn coming up the Groove pitch on the Shield, BITD... Really bitchin exposure up there, amazing to think that Sunkist could be even more "out there"... makes things tighten up a bit just thinkin about it!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Jan 20, 2011 - 12:43am PT
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I think ANY El Cap Route, base to top, will provide "Full Value".
I've climbed Mescalito, & while it was a great experience, I still long to cross that Golden Headwall. Cheers, BN, on whatever you choose. Just remember to check in for "Full Value".
Oh, yes.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 20, 2011 - 10:41pm PT
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Mescalito is nothing more than an A2 trade route. Proud section of wall, straightforward route. Climbed scores of times each year.
Magic Mushroom - I did knott like this route. It is one of my least favourites on El Cap [I've done 42]. The problem is that the corners are very tight and deep - you have to reach deep into the slot to place the gear and then when you step on your aider, you are forced so far outwards because of the slot the next piece you can place is only like a foot higher. I really didn't like this route, and would not recommend it. Unless you like really awkward climbing.
Sunkist - stunning, fantastic. Best A3 on the SW Face if not the entire El Cap. I have been promoting this route since I climbed it in 97, and few have climbed it since. I still need to get the Official Word on the condition of the anchor bolts, though. I think they're OK, knott sure. [Back in 97, I was a n00b, and considered a bolt to be a bolt]
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BriGuy
climber
black hills
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Jan 25, 2011 - 02:43am PT
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This is the pitch that leads to the headwall crack on Sunkist. The climbers in the background are on Golden Gate.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jan 25, 2011 - 09:43am PT
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Cool stuff. Amazing photos.
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Jefe'
Boulder climber
Bishop
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Jan 25, 2011 - 03:59pm PT
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Kevin, I remember a picture Richard showed me of you standing in slings on thin blades chompping your fingernails pretending to actually be gripped.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jan 25, 2011 - 05:24pm PT
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A climbing bump. BN is out of town so he won't see this for a few days.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 25, 2011 - 06:08pm PT
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I can't speak for the condition of the climbing these days but nobody has ever done The Jollykist that I am aware of.
Considering the ghastly state of the Gangplank on the JR (peckers tapped into deadheads, yuk!) take a left instead. Big fun in either direction!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 25, 2011 - 08:31pm PT
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Chris Geisler and Connie Axelmusen climbed Jollykist when Connie ran short of time, so Chris told me.
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Neil Chelton
climber
England
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Mar 10, 2011 - 11:55am PT
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A friend and I climbed Mescalito in September 2010 and had the whole route to ourselves. Of the 6 El Cap routes i've done, Mescalito was definitely the best. Although the climbing is relatively straightforward, it is sustained from the first move to the very end, with each pitch being about C2- C3. Perfect rock, fantastic views and a spectacular location. Do it.
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anuk
climber
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Mar 12, 2011 - 10:13pm PT
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I agree with Warner. I did the Mushroom in 2000 and thought the flaring cracks were no-fun. Basicly I remeber 1 good pitch on the whole route. Mescalito stand in line, but its easy C2 the whole way. Bet sunkist would be super good. I hear chill for the grade.
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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Mar 12, 2011 - 10:18pm PT
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Your style is suspect, pass your penis Pete.
Circumspect. Trustifarian. You're a pretender in the tribe.
Go back to MonTauk.
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Hoots
climber
Toyota Tacoma
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Mar 12, 2011 - 11:24pm PT
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Brian, how were those bolts when you were up there on Sunkist? Plus a bump for more pics!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Mar 12, 2011 - 11:37pm PT
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Do South Seas->PO
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Dec 26, 2013 - 05:40pm PT
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bump for climbing
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Rocky IV
Social climber
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Dec 26, 2013 - 07:06pm PT
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the belays on SK are all good except for 1 above the A5 arch. Get on it, the route is incredible.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Dec 26, 2013 - 08:57pm PT
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We had Excalibur to ourselves, wonderful.
Always wanted to do the Shroom, but then I want to do The Dihedral and Cosmos too.....HA!!
Sorry to all the snobs, but I haven't done a bad El Cap route.
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