rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jan 17, 2011 - 05:28pm PT
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Do people actually do the real start of MM...or do most just jug to Mammoth to avoid the yukky slab? The better way?
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Jan 17, 2011 - 05:35pm PT
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Most people go to Mammoth and avoid the bottom 10 pitches of slabbing aid. Mescalito is probably the most climbing of the three and has great position as does Sunkist up high. Almost any big ElCap route is worth doing for sure. Let me know when you are going and I'll try to make you famous... unless you bail and then you will be infamous! ;)
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Eubanks,D
Big Wall climber
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Jan 17, 2011 - 06:09pm PT
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Do Sunkist.
Beautiful headwall.
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Weld_it
Trad climber
Chatsworth
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Jan 17, 2011 - 06:20pm PT
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WOS is the leading ege of radness and all others are ghey. Do the WOS.
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dave
climber
Earth
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Jan 17, 2011 - 06:20pm PT
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Yo Brassnuts hows bout something that hasn't seen a 2nd.? Ring, Ring.
D
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2011 - 07:44pm PT
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Hey everybody, thanks for the info and opinions so far! Good feedback. Anybody have any pictures of the Mushroom or Sunkist? Keep the votes and info coming... :-) Although Mescalito is an awesome line, I'm not a fan of crowds, so that may be the least likely choice for me. I remember really digging the golden desert headwall on the Shield and I'm not a big fan of awkward flared corner aiding, so it's looking like Sunkist is in the lead so far.......
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Jan 17, 2011 - 08:05pm PT
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I only remember one really awkward pitch on The Mushroom, and it's a bitch.
It's probably a bit less hellish with cams - I was placing pins in the back of it, with cams you only need one hand back in there.
Whatever, it's no more than 60 or 80 ft of that.
The first steep pitches of the route are great, and the pitches below Chickenhead are really exposed and exciting.
That whole Mushroom/flared corners thing is an Urban Legend.
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Jan 17, 2011 - 08:06pm PT
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This business of Sunkist being only half a route is BS. Plenty of good climbing up there and nice looking granite
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 17, 2011 - 08:14pm PT
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not a big fan of awkward flared corner aiding sounds like right side in armbars to me!
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Jan 17, 2011 - 08:20pm PT
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Anders,
I have an old snapshot (73) on my fridge looking down the groove up there at Richard Harrison Jumaring. That must be an absolutely great pitch to freeclimb, not hard, and fearsomely exposed.
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BriGuy
climber
black hills
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Jan 17, 2011 - 10:18pm PT
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The Sunkist headwall is absolutely spectacular (way better than the Shield) and many starting options exist, we did the Muir start.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2011 - 08:34am PT
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Sweet pics! Looks like killer exposure fer sure... the golden desert... More pics?? Also fun pics earlier of the representative "fruit" for each route, very creative :-)
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Jan 18, 2011 - 08:46am PT
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Great pics! That is a stellar head wall.
BNuts, what ever route you choose, it is awesome to see you planning to do one.
Stick with the rehab and keep to your training. I am rooting for you.
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Silver
Big Wall climber
Nor Nev
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Jan 18, 2011 - 09:49am PT
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Brass Sunkist sounds and looks great. How about doing Dorn Direct to it to spice that up a little more. You could do the start to the mushroom or the Muir to get up to the start or you could do JR start. Plenty of options for starts but if it was me I would head off to Sunkist and avoid the crowds of the Mescalito and the flairing Mushroom.
Hope the arm is getting better and cool to see you having a goal to test that new arm.
Silver
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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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Jan 18, 2011 - 09:55am PT
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You could start on mushroom and finish on sunkist...thus accomplishing half of your list!
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