Sunkist vs. Magic Mushroom vs. Mescalito?

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 67 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Prod

Trad climber
Jan 17, 2011 - 08:31pm PT
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/Yosemite_National_Park/Yosemite_Valley/El_Capitan/Southwest_Face_El_Capitan/Sunkist_4885.html
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Jan 17, 2011 - 08:35pm PT
Most people go to Mammoth and avoid the bottom 10 pitches of slabbing aid. Mescalito is probably the most climbing of the three and has great position as does Sunkist up high. Almost any big ElCap route is worth doing for sure. Let me know when you are going and I'll try to make you famous... unless you bail and then you will be infamous! ;)
Prod

Trad climber
Jan 17, 2011 - 08:37pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=14825&msg=460578
Eubanks,D

Big Wall climber
Jan 17, 2011 - 09:09pm PT
Do Sunkist.
Beautiful headwall.
Weld_it

Trad climber
Chatsworth
Jan 17, 2011 - 09:20pm PT
WOS is the leading ege of radness and all others are ghey. Do the WOS.
dave

climber
Earth
Jan 17, 2011 - 09:20pm PT
Yo Brassnuts hows bout something that hasn't seen a 2nd.? Ring, Ring.

D
cintune

climber
the Moon and Antarctica
Jan 17, 2011 - 10:14pm PT
Decisions, decisions....



BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2011 - 10:44pm PT
Hey everybody, thanks for the info and opinions so far! Good feedback. Anybody have any pictures of the Mushroom or Sunkist? Keep the votes and info coming... :-) Although Mescalito is an awesome line, I'm not a fan of crowds, so that may be the least likely choice for me. I remember really digging the golden desert headwall on the Shield and I'm not a big fan of awkward flared corner aiding, so it's looking like Sunkist is in the lead so far.......
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 17, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
I only remember one really awkward pitch on The Mushroom, and it's a bitch.

It's probably a bit less hellish with cams - I was placing pins in the back of it, with cams you only need one hand back in there.

Whatever, it's no more than 60 or 80 ft of that.

The first steep pitches of the route are great, and the pitches below Chickenhead are really exposed and exciting.

That whole Mushroom/flared corners thing is an Urban Legend.
Slakkey

Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
Jan 17, 2011 - 11:06pm PT
This business of Sunkist being only half a route is BS. Plenty of good climbing up there and nice looking granite
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 17, 2011 - 11:14pm PT
Those big pendulums on Magic Mushroom, to get to Chickenhead, must be rather airy and exciting. Are they the pendulums nearest to the top of El Cap?

The photos from the FA of Magic Mushroom look like there are some grooves in the upper part, with cracks at the back.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1227384

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/599796/caldwell-sjong-free-magic-mushroom
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 17, 2011 - 11:14pm PT
not a big fan of awkward flared corner aiding
sounds like right side in armbars to me!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 17, 2011 - 11:20pm PT
Anders,

I have an old snapshot (73) on my fridge looking down the groove up there at Richard Harrison Jumaring. That must be an absolutely great pitch to freeclimb, not hard, and fearsomely exposed.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 17, 2011 - 11:22pm PT
The account of the first ascent, from the Canadian Alpine Journal (1973). With photos:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=387488&msg=387568#msg387568
BriGuy

climber
black hills
Jan 18, 2011 - 01:18am PT
The Sunkist headwall is absolutely spectacular (way better than the Shield) and many starting options exist, we did the Muir start.

Credit: BriGuy
Credit: BriGuy
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2011 - 11:34am PT
Sweet pics! Looks like killer exposure fer sure... the golden desert... More pics?? Also fun pics earlier of the representative "fruit" for each route, very creative :-)
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 18, 2011 - 11:46am PT
Great pics! That is a stellar head wall.

BNuts, what ever route you choose, it is awesome to see you planning to do one.
Stick with the rehab and keep to your training. I am rooting for you.
Silver

Big Wall climber
Nor Nev
Jan 18, 2011 - 12:49pm PT
Brass Sunkist sounds and looks great. How about doing Dorn Direct to it to spice that up a little more. You could do the start to the mushroom or the Muir to get up to the start or you could do JR start. Plenty of options for starts but if it was me I would head off to Sunkist and avoid the crowds of the Mescalito and the flairing Mushroom.

Hope the arm is getting better and cool to see you having a goal to test that new arm.

Silver
Buju

Big Wall climber
the range of light
Jan 18, 2011 - 12:55pm PT
You could start on mushroom and finish on sunkist...thus accomplishing half of your list!
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Jan 18, 2011 - 06:56pm PT
Here's a vote for Sunkist. I would say it is one the very best El Cap routes I have done out of 27 different ones.

It has great location, great rock, and the upper headwall is amazing. It's hard enough to be interesting, but cruiser enough so you don't sweat too many difficulties.

I have no photos because we lost the disposable camera we had on the descent. Bummer! I may have to climb it again to get some photos like the Briguy's.
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