Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 841 - 860 of total 1165 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Sep 28, 2013 - 10:43am PT
Bill, most the stuff I've put in are 3" If your using a power drill go deep baby.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2013 - 09:55am PT
Kenny, thanks for the feedback.
We went with the three inch, the additional depth
gives a way better feeling.

kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Sep 30, 2013 - 10:36am PT
Dan, are there some new anchors up there?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Sep 30, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
Moose, are you missing a #1 camalot? one ended up on my gear sling and I don't think I put it there.let me know

Kenny


Footloose, nice hangers u got there!
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Sep 30, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
My bad, Dan. I've lowered off many a shut before without thinking twice. But I have many stainless hangers so I'll replace them this weekend.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Sep 30, 2013 - 05:46pm PT
Dan - glad to hear you got on the route. I start just left of the huge broken left-facing corner below the first roof, climb directly up and traverse left at the horizontal that tops the finger crack. From there, up the left arête to the anchors. Didn't look at the face option that avoids the scramble up to the start but it's probably a nice variation.

I agree there's still some looseness in the middle of the climb but it is easy to avoid with great pro I didn't want to get into that house of cards. I think all the death blocks have been removed.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Sep 30, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
Ok moose,
What suggestions for next years woodfest do you have?
I know woodfest was kinda put together hastily.
Maybe some sponsors? Hahaha

And that was my route you destroyed......I'm gonna sick Renada on you for that!!!
Shawn
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Sep 30, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
I think it's even better now.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Oct 1, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
Hey thanks, Dan, means a lot. Hopefully see you gents out there this weekend.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 1, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
Not closed :)
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Oct 1, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
Ron
I will continue to have PIG/Woodfest every year as long as interest continues. Ill try and get Foghat or some other classic band to play to livin it up a little ;)
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Oct 7, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
Kenny - finally lead Dr. Sleep. Was able to get a 0.4 just below the bolt but still clipped it. Glad I did, the next placement under the roof is quite a ways above it. Total thought provoking placements the whole way.

Dan - we also did Long Arm. Might be the best climb up there??? The partners and I all loved it. Great crack at the start with thin, balancey moves for the entire top half all the way to the chains. Super fun.

The top tier is top notch.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Oct 7, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
Awesome. Rico and myself will be down in red rocks this Thursday thru next Tuesday to climb with some friends. Hit me up if you wanna meet up.

775-848-2622
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Nov 1, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
I've been spending some time up at Babylon Crag lately. Great lines, plenty of potential, and not a single other person. Definitely stoked for some cold weather scending at the fords though. Dan - I'd love to get a look at the topo of your fortress climbs. Those gems will probably keep me busy all winter.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Nov 1, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
Dan - I've never been able to figure that topo out. Where does Weak Stick start as a point of reference?

Babylon is good. Dirty but bullet rock with plenty of corners and splitters and slab. I have a picture topo I can send you but am wary to post it up for fear of the hordes "discovering" this historic stone. ;)

Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Nov 1, 2013 - 01:56pm PT
Hence the quotes, Ron. Much has been added/upgraded since then.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Nov 1, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
Damn you and your big words, Jeebus! Manzanita is not that bad - kudos to whomever took the time to cut out a decent trail. I did 4 routes there last weekend, 3 of which are not in the guide book, all of which were stellar. Okay, enough thread drift.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Nov 1, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
The trail getting there is nonexistant. But around the base they've done a decent job. But that's just a sign of solitude. Did your friends put up those climbs on the upper south side of the wall? I did a 5.10+ up there that was amazing (but dirty). Double hand cracks to a steep single handcrack on a detached pinnacle thru a roof to flaring fingers. There's a chminey climb right next to it. Very cool stuff.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Nov 1, 2013 - 03:14pm PT
Not yet but it's on the list along with Helping Hands.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Nov 1, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
Yea Dan Seeliger has a great eye for new climbs. I guess when you own a refuge larger than Yose with massive walls, you get good at that kinda stuff. Not sure if he scrubbed PCT crack as well but it wouldn't suprise me. Dude really puts in the effort.
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