Woodfords Canyon

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Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 1, 2010 - 01:22pm PT
Warmer longer days are right around
the corner. Looking forward to workout
sessions in Woodfords to get fit for
High Sierra climbs this Spring and Summer.

Flexible times, weekdays and weekends. Anytime
weather is sunny.

Laps on One of These Days (5.10c) is a real workout.

Here's another I hope to play on soon:
Credit: Footloose

It's on sunny winterside but in the shade.
Lot's of off-width work. Rumor says it goes
5.11.

Anyone interested? PM me and let's go!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 1, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
That looks cool.
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
Mar 1, 2010 - 08:49pm PT
wow, my KNEES are sweating!!
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Mar 1, 2010 - 09:04pm PT
My knees are hurting and bruised! But maybe that's because of my first visit to Generator Crack yesterday... after a few swings into the tree on toprope, I stuck a stamp on that postcard and sent it.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 1, 2010 - 09:15pm PT
Any cracks out that way?
leonardo

climber
davis, CA
Mar 1, 2010 - 09:51pm PT
What are the conditions right now?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
Donini- Tons of cracks on single and
half-pitch climbs. (Hey, c'mon out
and take on Positive Vibrations with
me this summer, I'll let you lead the
crux pitches!)

Leonardo- I haven't been out there yet this
season but according to Chim-Chim, a
local, snow's pretty much melted out on winterside
and pockets of summer heat on sunny days.

Woohoo! :)

Generator Crack-
This burly offwidth is easily toproped and seldom led. The crux comes just a few feet off the ground but the climbing remains physical and sustained to the top. Some advanced offwidth climbers use the "leavittation" technique but most climbers just throw in a knee, make a chicken wing, and struggle. Wear long sleeves and pants and you may want to tape your hands and ankles. Climb this route in cooler temperatures--even if it is near freezing the strenuous moves will keep you warm. Don't be discouraged if it takes you multiple visits to this climb to finally get it. Once you do, you?ll be ready to tackle most 5.10 and easier offwidths and squeeze chimneys in Yosemite.

Right on, Nutjob!

This means you're ropegun-
capable for offwidths this summer.
Woohoo!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 1, 2010 - 10:59pm PT
Nice send, Nutjob!
Madbolter

Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
Mar 4, 2010 - 04:28pm PT
Haha, my eyes only see face climbs.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
Still trying to line up
partners for this season's
workouts.

EDIT 5:22p Msiddens- look forward to it,
you're always on my short list!
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
Mar 7, 2010 - 12:39pm PT
Bill, I'm up for workout in the season.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 7, 2010 - 06:34pm PT
Footloose,
I'll do PV with you if you stay around to do the one just to the left- forgot it's name. It's a little harder than PV.
Chim Chim, I'm coming. Is Summer too hot?
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Mar 7, 2010 - 06:36pm PT
Is there anything up-canyon, near hope valley outdoors (is it still called that that, I used to work there) and the campground?

Seems like just cross canyon (at the bend in the canyon to the right when you're going downhill) there is some potential and just behind hope valley outdoors on the hillside is a spectacular roof crack.

Joyce, my old boss used to tell me stories about her days chilling with climbers in the valley in the '70's and even better stories about Dan-O climbing that roof crack behind the store.

Brandon-
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Mar 7, 2010 - 07:25pm PT
Chim
Ah the pics got me drooling again.
Im ready to hook up with you again for another great year up in the 'fords and finish up with "information catolog"!!!!
Hope you guys are doing great!!!!!
Shawn
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 08:27pm PT
Donini- Nice to hear! What did you have in mind,
CTC (twice) or camping? PM me with the details you
have in mind. Might have to "grab and go" in places on
Sunspot (quite more sustained than PV) but yeah!
Up close and personal on Sunspot would be sweet. If
aided, I'd just have to come back and get it free later.
Right? ;)

Chim- If the weather's good this week, count me in. Nice
to have you back.

Chim wrote-
I wish human cloning was legal then I could get something done.


Ha!
skychild

Trad climber
Birmingham, Alabama
Mar 8, 2010 - 01:54pm PT
I finally got up there to climb. I got a tour from a local who seemed to have alot of information about climbs
Credit: skychild
5.12b that aren't found in the Woodfords pdf file. The rock is a bit coarse in spots but the jam cracks are some of the best i've seen in the Tahoe area. Not to be missed if you like pure crack climbing. Potential is nearlly unlimited but you mighht be dissapointed that the f.a. that you just did has evidence of a prior ascent. Thousands of fine climbs if you like adventure. I sure would have liked to have busy in recent years as the number of new climbs has increased dramatically... but there's still lots to do. Don
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Mar 9, 2010 - 12:20pm PT
Glad you liked the area skychild...
A lot of work has gone into the area by Chim-Chim and many other locals over the years. Potential..unlimited..
Shawn
just a little teaser of summer climbing in the 'fords'
just a little teaser of summer climbing in the 'fords'
Credit: BurnRockBurn
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2010 - 10:10am PT
Weather's supposed to be nice
this Sun-Mon. Anyone want to go?
stella

climber
cali
Mar 17, 2010 - 07:30pm PT
difficult decision between here and sugarloaf.....but never been to woodfords, and it sounds pretty damn good. so headed there with a couple friends for thursday and friday. already printed off the guidebook from the obscurities page. any y'all locals got any more beta on where to go this time of year? cliffs, routes, access, whatever info would be great. also wondering what the camping situation is. is there any dispersed camping in those parts if the stuff by the river is snowed in? coming from truckee, so its just a bit too long for a day trip....seems like we'll need at least a couple days anyways to get a feel for the place. thanks, matt
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2010 - 12:41am PT
Hey Chim!

I was just coming here, you
beat me to it.

Saw Ryan in the gym, tonite.
Let's get on Big Bad Wolf with the
good weather!

I'm ready to stand in snow even
and get down on OOTD.

EDIT Stella- no problem with
camping. Sunny Winter Side is
clear of snow. Easy camping
everywhere, that's what I'd do.
Have fun.
stella

climber
cali
Mar 18, 2010 - 01:15am PT
thanks guys....got some of the stuff off mountain project, looks like plenty to entertain. hopefully we'll run into you and i can scum some more beta...we'll be the ones with two big dogs. cheers, matt
stella

climber
cali
Mar 20, 2010 - 12:33am PT
dan-

thanks for all the beta. we didn't get a whole ton of climbing in today (my partners left around 1 PM) but checked out the Books area. the 5.8 was phenomenal, and cat scratch fever was cool too (except for the death flake low on the route). didn't get on any of the harder or newer stuff this time, next time i'll check it out. o.u.l.d. and mr. personality looked pretty cool, the rock is reminiscent of the new stuff in pine creek near bishop. overall, woodfords gets a BIG thumbs up! everything we got on was 4-5 star quality, and we barely scratched the surface. looking forward to a guidebook coming out, kind of hard to find your way around there on your own....a little too much rock. i'd have to say that woodfords is probably my new winter destination (sorry sugarloaf). anyways thanks for all your hard work, i'll hit you up next time i'm in the area. cheers, matt
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Mar 20, 2010 - 01:40am PT
Really looking forward to your guide Dan ...Although it might be the demise of that little "gem" of an area....Been occassionally falling my way up classics around "Fords" since the 70's. Your devotion to the area is admirable. Best wishes and keep up the good work.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2010 - 01:23pm PT
Visited obscure sections of Woodfords Canyon this weekend.
Credit: Footloose

Anyone know anything about this corner crack above the Epoxy Wall. Chim?
Credit: Footloose


Too bad some obscurities are 1,000 vertical feet
or more up the hill. I haven't tried any of these.
They look to be pretty nice.
Credit: Footloose

It was a beautiful day. Here you can look down
on the highway and see cars of climbers who are up on the Fortress:
Credit: Footloose

For anyone who wishes to explore the area, this photo looks
down on the highway and the backside of the famous Big Bertha.
Credit: Footloose

Higher up:
Credit: Footloose

Credit: Footloose

FYI, One of these Days, a Woodfords Classic on the South
Side is now in the sun in the afternoon. Climbers were there
on Sunday.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2010 - 10:02am PT
Where are you, Chim-Chim?

What's that corner crack called
above the Epoxy Wall and what's it
go at?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2010 - 02:58pm PT
Chim, thanks. Good to know.

I actually didn't get to its base. I
got distracted by another path to another
interest.

Please take my photo if you can and mark up your
approach to this crack. This would be so
helpful.

FL


P.S. Give it a name so I can talk about
climbing it- this 5.9+. It's the one I want to
do.
Tattooed 1

Trad climber
Sebastopol, Ca
May 5, 2010 - 03:03pm PT
Hey Chim,
Is there any published topo info available yet? If so where can I get it?
Tim
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
Spent yesterday at One Of These
Days. FYI, it is once again in the sun.
Credit: Footloose

The best 5.10c in Lake Tahoe:
Credit: Footloose

Took 3 laps on this baby.
(dang, have to clean the dust off the lens...)

Another view:
Credit: Footloose


If I weren't so sore, alas, I'd be back there today.
Happy climbing everybody in Lake Tahoe and the High Sierras
this summer!


BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
May 17, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
Chim

Give me a shout when you get back. Have fun in the Ditch.
Foot...we all need to hook up sometime.

Shawn
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2010 - 05:11pm PT
Chim- Wonderful news!
Good luck down there. Have fun!

Call or email when ready Shawn, when you can make
it. Any time.

It's raining here, now, today.
Which is good. My flowerbeds need it.
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
May 21, 2010 - 03:08am PT
Boys and girls, cross-posting a recent TR to the Fortress area:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1174042/TR-2010-05-Woodfords-Widefest-Lite

We were suckered into the sandy direct ascent! Too lazy to keep going to the knoll :)

There really is an amazing amount of route potential up there... just cataloging it all is going to be an effort similar to the Jtree guidebook.

Footloose and msiddens, I was definitely thinking of you boys when I headed up there! Overall I'm still in the midst of my Yosemite obsession years, but I'll keep spicing it up with Woodfords as needed.

msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
May 21, 2010 - 01:56pm PT
Thanks Nutjob- same here....heading to the Valley (again) but Spring is coming to a close.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 21, 2010 - 02:41pm PT
I'm Valley bound too. But, I'm planning to get over there soon...
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
May 22, 2010 - 12:41pm PT
Dan
We still on for Mondays photo session?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 22, 2010 - 01:05pm PT
Astroface is a cool send.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2010 - 03:54pm PT
Jaybro- Why not grab Zander or Em or Nutjob, come up, it'll give us a chance to meet, and I'll show you the wide in the first picture. It's called the Big Bad Wolf and getting to it is an effectively nice calorie burner. (If that's part of your goal structure.) :)

Chim- Can't wait to hear all about it. Makes me terribly envious. I'd ask if I could join you and Shawn Monday but think the weather's going to be sketch:

http://forecast.weather.gov:80/MapClick.php?lat=38.770145674423965&lon=-119.84024047851562&site=rev&smap=1&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text


Thanks again for snagging my cap, I climb a whole number lower without it.



Siddens- Your climbing in Yosemite makes me all ancy and jealous inside when I think about it- so I try not to think about it. But good on ya!
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
May 23, 2010 - 01:54am PT
Dan, Sasha and Friends of Woodfords
I would like to get a little group together up there for some camping and story telling as well as sharing beta on the areas. I am willing to BBQ my ass off to feed anyone and make arrangements for a little Woodfords Fest.
If anyone is interested please let me know and we can start planning some dates or two.
Thanks

Shawn Watson


Footy 20% Chance of Slight Snow 46 degrees ...Its a Woodfords Day!!!!!
dickcilley

Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
Jun 28, 2010 - 04:12pm PT
Hope to be there Thursday .Hope I can find something to TR. solo.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2010 - 05:54pm PT
Big guns at Woodfords yesterday:
Credit: Footloose

Big strength, too:
Credit: Footloose
Credit: Footloose

Route beta: One Of These Days route is easier now,
a half square foot flake peeled off face- establishing
MORE purchase on lower section. Now is this
good or bad? Hmm...
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 1, 2010 - 02:09pm PT
Chim and Footy
Im off the next six days and may be able to get up there with you guys on one of my days off. Let me know.
Shawn
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 1, 2010 - 02:34pm PT
Footloose, did you Sic Em on that wyde crack on the original post? Been back to that thing?

Watch out for that Cilley guy....
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2010 - 10:07pm PT
Jaybro, no I'm saving the Big Bad Wolf
for you! Grab the gang, or even one, come on up,
we'll get on it.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2010 - 10:35pm PT
No one but us (B,S,R) at OOTD buttress, today,
it was beautiful.

But I missed my cap.


EDIT

Ron, why not come on down one of these
days, check it out. We could talk taxidermy,
used to do as a kid.

Maybe you remember a place called Jepedos
in Carson City, circa 1974, chockfull of animal
hides and specimens.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2010 - 12:21pm PT
Missed you yesterday, Chim, I'll call you next
week to see if you get out. No worries about spreading
the word, we love ya for what you do. ;)

(Why's that farm animal on top of that little dog?)
klimski

Trad climber
Bridgeport,CA
Jul 3, 2010 - 01:53pm PT
Chim ,Tina and I had a great time up at the steeple. Lots of work for us right now but we'll be back in a couple weeks for a weekend of sick routes and of course no crowds, section 20ish ehh?
Klimksi
Matty B

Sport climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 5, 2010 - 10:49am PT
Actually saw Dick a few hours later. Saw a cat with a climbing rope on his pack and got him up to Woodfords on my way to Mokelumne for some hiking. He told me about this website!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2010 - 01:08pm PT
Chim- Don't know if you have any memory of this.

At the top of OOTD in the channel / chimney next to
the anchors were two heavyweight loose blocks. I grew sick
and tired of them there always creeping me out. For
a couple of reasons. But one was if they ever let loose their
drop zone after exiting the channel and after 115' freefall straight down
was the belay zone.

So yesterday, opportunity presented itself to trundle them so I did.
With the energy output of two dynamite explosions.

So check it out when you can. Next time I go up I'll clean the
channel of the remaining sand. I called it a nice improvement.

You're probably up there today. Have fun. My forearms will
be sore for days after yesterday. What a blast!
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 15, 2010 - 03:40pm PT
Damn footy....kaboom

Did get your message on Indian head....may be interested in that down the road.
Back to work for the weekend but maybe able to get out soon
shawn
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 16, 2010 - 12:41am PT
Ron
Im not sure if he its the same place of not...knew those had been chopped a couple of years ago. Would love to check out Zebra wall though. Looks very inviting

Had dealings with "tribal police" regarding Dinosaur a couple years ago.....one was very nice the other a total tool.
Shawn
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Jul 16, 2010 - 12:47am PT
There were chalk marks on Zebra wall a couple of years ago other than there are no signs of climbers on that wall for many years. Looks like lots of steep lines there. Those bolts on Wolf Creek have been gone for at least 8 years or more.
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Jul 16, 2010 - 11:34am PT
Most of the stuff up 4 is just volcanic mud flows, there may be some that is solid but I am not sure. In the high country around there Henry Peak has some basalt columns I have heard rumors of them being climbed. This formation is also near the the road but when I tried it years ago everything was loose.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2010 - 12:12pm PT
Looking for a workout partner for tomorrow,
anyone interested?

Where's Wolf Creek road? What's Indian Head?
I only know about Indian Rock, Southwest of Lake
Tahoe. If ever I go, sounds like I'll have to be
vigilant- careful because of angry Paiutes, still? :)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2010 - 11:58am PT
Just got the day off, anybody going up today,
I need a workout partner.

Chim, Shawn, is there anybody out there? (Pink Floyd)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2010 - 12:29am PT
Chim- Darn it, man, we keep missing each other.

I'm heading up tomorrow, are you? By the way, I
still haven't checked out the Woodcutter's area. Soon.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 21, 2010 - 12:19pm PT
Have fun thursday....we keep working oposites. UGH !!!!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2010 - 04:19pm PT
Shawn, still trying to find that no-hands
purchase above the roof on OOTD you pulled off awhile
back. Still alludes me...

You sure you didn't sneak a cam into a crack
way up there when we all weren't looking? ;)


EDIT Alright, Shawn I'll give it another go,
looking to knee jam something.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 22, 2010 - 05:23pm PT
Foot

Right hand in the crack then right knee jammed in there...pray....repeat
stella

climber
cali
Jan 15, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
How are the conditions down there? Are there any topos of the south-facing crags floating around?
climberevan

Mountain climber
Jan 16, 2011 - 11:12pm PT
It's been warm and dry for a while now--65+degrees today at my place near Gardnerville. There is a lot of snow around, so seepy lines will probably be wet, but there have been climbers around and the rock looks great.

PM me--i have lots of free time and the skiing sucks right now...
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2011 - 12:15am PT
Always love to see interest for Woodfords Canyon
at Supertopo. It's been kinda cold though lately but
it's also warming up.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Jan 22, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
See you tomorrow Woodfords...
Looking forward to it...
stella

climber
cali
Jan 23, 2011 - 10:29pm PT
is there still a guidebook in the works?
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 24, 2011 - 12:03am PT
Yes
Chim chim is still working on it. He is the "steward" of woodfords. Knows every climb and move on each climb. Always amazes me with his knowledge of the area. Sasha too. ;)

Shawn
stella

climber
cali
Jan 25, 2011 - 12:24am PT
Anybody headed out there this week? We'll be climbing Tuesday and Wednesday.
stella

climber
cali
Jan 27, 2011 - 11:06am PT
huh?

actually, it was pretty empty...beautiful conditions though.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Apr 2, 2011 - 10:15pm PT
Credit: seth kovar
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2011 - 05:29pm PT
Woodfords fans,

Good news, sunny warm days ahead,

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.770145674423965&lon=-119.84024047851562&site=rev&smap=1&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text

anybody want to get out this Friday noonish, south facing side, for a few hours workout?

PM me if interested.
Thanks.

.....

P.S. Cute pup there, Seth, reminds me a little
of Chim-Chim. :)
Mason

Trad climber
Yay Area
Apr 12, 2011 - 05:55pm PT
I tried figuring out where the Woodfords were this year a few times on my way to Kirkwood from S Lake Tahoe. 89 to 88 right??


No luck, and the snow was too high so couldn't scout. Fail.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Apr 12, 2011 - 06:16pm PT
From Kirkwood dont turn to go to south lake. Head straight down the hill toward Gardnerville. You may see some rock on the way..
Dont do it!!!!
Dont do it!!!!
Credit: BurnRockBurn
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2011 - 02:25pm PT
That looks like the top of the Steeple?
Still haven't been there. Maybe this season I'll check
it out. Tell Chim we miss him here at supertopo with
the Woodfords Weekly News.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Apr 19, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
The Perfect Lieback is showcased in r&i this month as a 5.8 must do in the tahoe area...

no fa info though, ron, you should write the editor
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Apr 19, 2011 - 02:17pm PT
Sweet for the lieback

Shawn
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
Apr 19, 2011 - 02:53pm PT
what....R&I? Great, there goes the neighborhood:-)
bergbryce

Mountain climber
Oakland
Apr 19, 2011 - 02:54pm PT
I'm in the process of relocating to south lake and am really anxious to check out woodfords. I drove through there a few weeks ago, man there looks like a lot of climable rock there. Hoping someone can show me this incredible lieback.

bryce
GvilleClimbingClub

climber
Apr 19, 2011 - 03:04pm PT
Perfect Layback was FA by Bill Griffen and Siggi Vogal. Don't know the date. It really is a perfect climb.
adikted

Trad climber
Apr 19, 2011 - 06:01pm PT
I went to Woodfords for my first time last Sunday with my girlfriend. parked at the fortress and realized i forgot the Rope...DOH.....so we just hiked around the crag....Awesome area...plan on heading back this sunday to climb the perfect lieback........good times...
adikted

Trad climber
Apr 19, 2011 - 06:33pm PT
I'll do those as well...would u recomend doubles in 2 and 3 camalot for the handcrack?...i was wondering that looking up at it the other day....psyched on Tahoe Handcracks.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Apr 19, 2011 - 08:12pm PT
In light of the recent R&I, I would like to point out to the world that WOODFORDS IS A FUKING PILE OF CHOSS! Don't waste your time. The Pie Shop and Snowshed are way, way better... go there instead.

does reverse psychology really work?
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Apr 19, 2011 - 08:31pm PT
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

:)

Listen to wes, that place is a death trap...
squishy

Mountain climber
sacramento
Apr 19, 2011 - 08:47pm PT
I climbed an easy moderate way up high near the summit last weekend, a nice 5.6, super fun, lots of other potential up there...I am heading back to try a few other things I spotted...
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Apr 19, 2011 - 09:11pm PT
Man, it's starting to sound like you could get one hell of a solo circuit figured out up there at Woodfords with all the moderate climbing there is. Sometimes it's just nice to get alot of vertical mileage in with just a chalk bag and shoes. With all the short, quality lines, sounds like it'd be alot of fun in addition to roping it up on some of the harder lines.
adikted

Trad climber
Apr 19, 2011 - 09:20pm PT
Thanks for the Beta Ron.....im psyced to rope up on Sunday at the Woodfords chosspile.... ;)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2011 - 09:26pm PT
From last weekend:
Perfect Lieback
Perfect Lieback
Credit: Footloose

Weather was warm, sunny, bright:

I Be Jammin'
I Be Jammin'
Credit: Footloose

I Be Jammin'
I Be Jammin'
Credit: Footloose

Always struck by the contrast between opposing faces of the Canyon:

Woodfords Canyon, 16apr2011, north-facing side
Woodfords Canyon, 16apr2011, north-facing side
Credit: Footloose


P.S

I had wanted to ski that chute to the right, just didn't get to it fast enough in these spring conditions.
Now this week's weather is unsettled. Bummer.

Could somebody post a link or something (a cut n paste) to the Rock n Ice piece?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 02:40pm PT
I'm pretty sure Bill Griffin told me he was TPL's FA.
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Apr 20, 2011 - 02:46pm PT
How long will those chutes be in condition?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 03:06pm PT
How long will those chutes be in condition?

I guess it depends on your standards. For me,
it was a couple of days ago. If you snooze, you lose. :(
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Apr 20, 2011 - 03:43pm PT
Hope to see you Saturday Woodfords...
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Apr 20, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
Foot

That photo is the top of the Steeple.

Nice to see all the interest in Woodfords again. Still looking to do a pig roast in June, Maybe the weekend of the 4th. Will keep everyone posted.
Shawn
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
Apr 20, 2011 - 05:13pm PT
Footloose- those picts look cool. What area is that??
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 05:23pm PT
Haha. C'mon up, I'll show you.

But not this week:

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.770145674423965&lon=-119.84024047851562&site=rev&smap=1&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text

Ouch!
adikted

Trad climber
Apr 20, 2011 - 07:48pm PT
Damn...weather looks skeptical...im gonna try and climb woodfords sunday anyways....it will be a fun drive none the less.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Apr 20, 2011 - 08:08pm PT
That's why you've got to shop around on weather forecasts...http://www.weather.com/outlook/homeandgarden/garden/tenday/USCA0672. 52 degrees, 10 percent chance of rain. Much better.

edit: Oh, yeah. You're looking at Sunday, not Saturday. Sorry ;). Still, there's a 70% chance of no rain. And, c'mon, it'll probably just be a passing shower, dry off in a second...
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
Oh Jebus is a diehard for Woodfords, he's probably hiking
the approach as I post this. In the rain and all. Happy climbing!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Apr 23, 2011 - 01:47pm PT
No, fellas, I'm not that die hard. I'm currently sitting on my butt and planning a little gym time later. Damn rain!
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
Apr 23, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
Im more a wuss- posting this from the gym
adikted

Trad climber
Apr 23, 2011 - 07:17pm PT
Damn.....I reckon tomorrow is gonnabe crappy too...oh well....gym day :(
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Apr 24, 2011 - 09:14am PT
Im more a wuss- posting this from the gym
I think I out wussed you by flaking on the gym. I hung out with the lady and got fatter. It was fun!
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Apr 24, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
I think I out wussed you by flaking on the gym. I hung out with the lady and got fatter. It was fun!

ditto
bergbryce

Mountain climber
Oakland
Apr 24, 2011 - 12:59pm PT
Rain, sun, now snow. Interesting morning weather wise in South Tahoe.
Gonna go skin up something, been hearing reports of good, creamy snow in some places.
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
Apr 24, 2011 - 06:19pm PT
Road the trails in Santa Cruz. Got my a** handed to me AND way muddy. Oh well
enjoimx

Trad climber
Kirkwood, CA
Apr 24, 2011 - 07:07pm PT
If I cant get a partner for the Gorge Tuesday Wednesday, I will be at Woodfords both days.

PM me if you need a partner, I definitely do.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 11:34am PT
msiddens,

Just don't go getting yourself injured doing that silly
biking stuff just at the start of climbing season. You'd hate that.
Just keep in mind Dark Star and Keeler. ;)

Good news, weather's looking up this week at Woodfords:

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.770145674423965&lon=-119.84024047851562&site=rev&smap=1&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text

Reminder-

54 F in full-on sun on south-facing slope feels like 84 F.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Apr 25, 2011 - 01:07pm PT
That would have sucked, Ron!

I'm hoping the forecast holds out this time. I'd sure love to climb TPLB again since it's now an official Tahoe must do!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 01:27pm PT
Hey, I've been eager to see photos of the fortress area
from the highway for the longest time now. From before the Fire.
Bill G was supposed to send me some I think at one point
but I never got to see any.

Anyone have any to share?

All that logging might explain why the area's
quite clear of detritus.
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
Apr 25, 2011 - 03:08pm PT
Footloose, never!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
You mean on the face around the corner where the old rope hung
for a couple of years? I always figured that was some of your
doing - as it looked to be hanging over 5.12ish terrain. ;)

I might go up Wed to explore some.

Have fun tomorrow.
NML81

Trad climber
N Lake Tahoe
May 2, 2011 - 01:36pm PT
My car was one of them. Fun day. The perfect lie-back is pretty perfect. I was wondering about rattlesnakes, thanks for the update. We found the descent trail and commented how we would hate to go up it.
Aerili

climber
Reno, NV
May 2, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
Hi NM, I think maybe you came over to the Books at the start of the day and chatted with my partner and I? I gave you some beta. If so, nice to meet you guys and hopefully we'll see ya out there again.
NML81

Trad climber
N Lake Tahoe
May 2, 2011 - 02:24pm PT
Aerili, That was me, nice to meet you and hope to run into again at the crags.
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 4, 2011 - 12:57am PT
Climbed out at Woodfords today, really nice day and we were the only ones out there. Climbed OULD and the first few pitches of hand of God among others.

Question, can someone tell me what the first pitch of hand of god is rated (the variation with the bolts on the face), it felt 11ish but I suck at ratings, also what is the stellar looking last pitch go at.

Thanks,
Steve
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
May 4, 2011 - 01:01am PT
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Sweet man, sounds like fun!!!!!!
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 4, 2011 - 01:03am PT
Thanks Seth, how was your trip?

Lets get out soon.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
May 4, 2011 - 12:41pm PT
Trip was rad!!!

Ksolem is a good guy...

June 8th is the last day of school... can't wait...

weekends are usually free...
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
May 8, 2011 - 08:21pm PT
Wes-

that face to the left of OOTD is .12a that a friend of mine named Paul bolted. It used to be a bit grainy but has cleaned up in the last few years.

The rope around the corner that some people were commenting on earlier was probably from my friend Walt who sometime leaves one there to tr solo OOTD.
He sticks it around the corner to be out of sight. I don't think Paul ever left a rope ther but I could be wrong.

take care
dave
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
May 8, 2011 - 09:17pm PT
NICE- traxion line just like the big boys at Arch. Great place, great routes.
mariaji

Social climber
Tucson, AZ
May 9, 2011 - 02:11am PT
Hello climbers, I'm looking for a partner in the Lake Tahoe vicinity to climb for the day on Saturday, May 14th. Anyone available? I'm happy swapping leads (5.10 sporto, 5.9 trad, multi-good) but won't have gear other than personal wares.

cheerio,
Maria
520-834-4548
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
May 9, 2011 - 04:57pm PT
The 11b right of OOTD sounds like King Diamond....FA Crawford,Banny Root& Me.
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 9, 2011 - 05:17pm PT
Hey Dan, First off thank you for all the hard work you have put in at Woodfords. I know it can be a thankless task. Let me assure you that I did not take a sh#t up there. I have been climbing for nearly 20 years and always practice and teach a low impact approach. The day I was up there there was evidence of others having been up there recently. I don't appreciate being blamed for someone elses sh#t just because I posted on an internet forum looking for information. I am not looking to get into an internet pissing (shitting match) I don't have time for that. Was just looking for some beta NBD, I guess I'll just go climb the thing. Again thank you for all of your effort at Woodfords, I look forward to meeting you out there.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2011 - 06:07pm PT
Yeah, his name's North. ;)
Jebus H Bomz

climber
May 9, 2011 - 06:11pm PT
After that I snailed my way up OOTD... probably took about 80 minutes, but I got it clean so I consider it a good endurance workout! - Weschrist

Heh. Good to hear I'm not the only who has done that. My onsight of OOTD was a forearm burning epic. It was a proud send for me though and definitely some good endurance.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
May 9, 2011 - 06:29pm PT
Let me assure you that I did not take a sh#t up there. I have been climbing for nearly 20 years and always practice and teach a low impact approach. --Gomz

Gomz would not pull any, well, sh#t like that... he is a stand up guy... I'd hate for people to think otherwise...

seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
May 9, 2011 - 06:35pm PT
The poop is all Rock and Ice's fault...

We'll be overrun by gym climbers and the poop will flow...

edit: sorry I missed the plastic pulling yesterday Jebus, and my buddy is not coming this weekend. What will you two get into?
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
May 9, 2011 - 06:40pm PT
Time to spin the signs, Czech style...
Jebus H Bomz

climber
May 9, 2011 - 07:36pm PT

edit: sorry I missed the plastic pulling yesterday Jebus, and my buddy is not coming this weekend. What will you two get into?

Not sure yet, Seth. Fitting to the thread title, I have been putting off another Woodfords visit for some time now. We will have the entire weekend for a change, so we might do some camping too.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2011 - 09:30pm PT
The third pitch may rival OOTD in quality.

I don't know, hard to believe. Anyways, happy climbing!


P.S. Thanks for the ping.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
May 12, 2011 - 10:44am PT
Chim. I'm back in town. Give me a shout.
Shawn
Jebus H Bomz

climber
May 15, 2011 - 02:24pm PT
Went up to Woodcutters Wall for the first time. Does anybody know what that bolted arete is? Ascent info, grade, etc.?

In my addled mind, I thought it looked like a 10a. Short into the lead, I discovered it is not. Really not.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
May 15, 2011 - 08:33pm PT
You talking about the flake on Right Branch? Looks like.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
May 15, 2011 - 10:00pm PT
The most stunning thing about woodfords is the amount of great rock 15min away.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
May 16, 2011 - 12:53am PT
Oh, I didn't get on Flaperass Flake, then. The day was getting short and the wind was kicking up, so we vamoosed.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
May 16, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
Yeah, Chim, I'd say it's tough 12-! Thanks for posting the description up on mproject, I'm "zeke" there. So, since I already spoiled my onsight (really spoiled) do you go straight over the bolt, or do you trend left or right to get by the crux? I was seeing a sequence where you could go right of the bolt line and link it through, but, damn, it'd be tough either way. High quality line.

Yeah, the steeple looked way cool. It definitely catches the eye. I'll have to hit that next.
Reggaemylitis

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Jul 1, 2011 - 09:20pm PT
Finally made it to check out this "hidden gem"! No wonder we didn't see anyone out there both days we were there! Total choss pile in a desert-like wasteland! Had to bushwack through manzanita the whole time, and carry a big stick to fight off all the rattlers! I would not recommend going here...EVER! I have pics to prove it!

OK, so maybe we missed the trail to OOTD on the way up, but we ran int...
OK, so maybe we missed the trail to OOTD on the way up, but we ran into it halfway up, and it was a breeze on the way down! ;)
Credit: Reggaemylitis

See how sketchy this stream crossing was?  Stupid snow(melt)! ...
See how sketchy this stream crossing was? Stupid snow(melt)! I wouldn't risk it if I were you!
Credit: Reggaemylitis

My buddy Eric warming up on Bush League!  That's what this whole place...
My buddy Eric warming up on Bush League! That's what this whole place is! Stay at The Leap. Remember my motto, if you can't see the car, you've gone too far! ;)
Credit: Reggaemylitis

See, what an ugly canyon to sit and lounge in between climbs!
See, what an ugly canyon to sit and lounge in between climbs!
Credit: Reggaemylitis

We all struggled at the roof!  My buddy had one of those 60 minute end...
We all struggled at the roof! My buddy had one of those 60 minute endurance fests while leading it! Wish we had beta on those roof moves!
Credit: Reggaemylitis

Then we get over to Nevada/Utah border and there is a bush in the midd...
Then we get over to Nevada/Utah border and there is a bush in the middle of the climb! Screw this adventure climbing nonsense! (Chim Chim and other locals, is it alright to remove that bush?)
Credit: Reggaemylitis

If I were to go back, and once again, I wouldn't recommend it, this ba...
If I were to go back, and once again, I wouldn't recommend it, this barren wasteland is where I'll go. Seems like the crowds are worse over there though!
Credit: Reggaemylitis
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Jul 1, 2011 - 09:26pm PT
Nice. Someone want to climb with me there Sunday? I'll bring the anti-venom...
Reggaemylitis

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Jul 6, 2011 - 04:32pm PT
HA! I guess you missed the spirit of my post for sure! The place was awesome, and I was trying to get an ignored area some attention. Thanks for the warm welcome! Back to Pipeworks I go!
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Jul 6, 2011 - 05:11pm PT
I difficult to even justify replying to an obvious troll, but we did watch you dog the roof o ootd for about an hour... maybe you should stay at the leap, espescially if you can't even follow an obvioius trail. Adveture climbing isn't for pussies. I heard Pipeworks is fun.

Yeah, I think their was some heavy sarcasm in that TR... Bad day Chim?

edit: I'd probably dog the roof too, should I go back to Rocksport?

edit:edit: can't wait to sample the south side.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jul 6, 2011 - 05:12pm PT
The beta for that roof is to pull up and over on .10a jams.

Had a real nice time at Woodfords a couple weeks ago, everything we did was quality... except for that NV/UT border, that thing is a lame chossy sandbag.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Jul 6, 2011 - 05:32pm PT
To Chim, m-e-l-l-o-w....You care deeply and that is good!

I agree, I know how much time you have dedicated to this place and thank you!!!!
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jul 6, 2011 - 05:58pm PT
Hi Ron,

I did the Hillside Strangler, that thing is absolutely top quality, loved it. Looked at some of those other things you mentioned, as well as some other things not in the old topo that have clearly been climbed, but day was winding down and they were in direct hot sun. Next time!

I did not love UT/NV, despite the ha ha rating. For a 50 foot climb, it has like 8 feet of good climbing, and 40 feet of downright lousy climbing. Rotten flake, shrub, 3rd class ramp strewn with loose rocks.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Jul 6, 2011 - 06:00pm PT
Heh, a little internet acrimony is always good for the blood.

Yeah, Ron, Dano sure sandbagged that UT/NV rig, but it's a good thing to bitchslap your ego every once in a while.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Jul 6, 2011 - 06:14pm PT
What can I say, Ron, I am a glutton for punishment. It was a bit rude trying to warm up for Hillside on NV/UT though and finding I should have done it the other way around.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Jul 6, 2011 - 06:54pm PT
jebus... :)
Reggaemylitis

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Jul 6, 2011 - 07:06pm PT
Well, I'm glad my shitty post kept the Woodfords thread on the front page most of the day! I wasn't trying to be a dick Chim-Chim, I'm just good at it! Thanks for all the work you've done out at this great area. Say hi next time you see my dogging! ;)

That was a good one by Dan-O! Got us for sure! LOL!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jul 9, 2011 - 12:39am PT
Anyone want to climb tomorrow?
I got back to Eagle Lake cliff tonight and am amped to get out tomorrow.
Could do Woodofrds or any other crag around south lake.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Jul 9, 2011 - 12:41am PT
Bummer, won't be back till Sunday... Woodfords, it's been too long...

Last time I was there I followed Quoia the Destroyer in the rain... talk about fun... nice lead Jebus!!!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Aug 12, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
Looking for a Tahoe area partner for tomorrow, Saturday. Doesn't have to be Woodfords, can do any area around Tahoe. Would be down for something adventurous, like Sector 20. Also interested in stuff on Flagpole if anyone wants to show me around. PM or reply here.

bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 30, 2011 - 05:14pm PT
Could use a partner tomorrow in the Tahoe area.
Anyone interested??
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Sep 30, 2011 - 06:37pm PT
We're doing Twin Crags tomorrow as a mellow hangover thing if you want to step your expectations down about 5 notches. Bring some Pibbers.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Sep 30, 2011 - 08:30pm PT
We're doing Twin Crags tomorrow as a mellow hangover thing if you want to step your expectations down about 5 notches. Bring some Pibbers.

bwahahahahaha... we're also only 15 to 20 minutes form Donner...

Then Chris and I could climb Kindergarden Crack while you belay Marissa up Panic in Detroit ;)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2011 - 11:09pm PT
Wish I could go. Love Woodfords.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Oct 2, 2011 - 06:11pm PT
bwahahahahaha... we're also only 15 to 20 minutes form Donner...

Then Chris and I could climb Kindergarden Crack while you belay Marissa up Panic in Detroit ;)

It was good enough to see her get up that 5.9 at Green Phantom, you have a budding tradster in your girlfriend there! If she keeps it up, Panic in Detroit isn't too far off ;).

Good job on K Crack, I think you're well qualified for The Nose now.

Also, thanks for putting us up at the digs. I literally couldn't get out of that hot tub until my bladder was about to explode. And even then, I thought about it...

Sh#t, I guess we gotta get our asses to Woodfords soon just to get this thread back on topic, eh?
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Nov 1, 2011 - 01:09pm PT
I have not read this whole thread so I appologize for the questions, but what kind of rock is the Woodfords? I saw a picture posted by Seth K. and it kind of looked like sandstone. How big is it? Is it mostly trad(my preference if I were to travel there)? Do you need a tour or can you figure it out with a guide book? It sure looks cool though and when I someday get the time and money to travel to cali again I would love to hit up some of these places that are off the beaten path a little.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Nov 1, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
What would a $25 contribution get me?

I hate to be stingy, but times are tight and I have another kid on the way.

Do you have a beat up copy?
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Nov 1, 2011 - 09:42pm PT
How do I do that?

If you e-mail me through supertopo, that's my real account.

I can pay via snail mail, or online if you have a way.

I've been wanting to climb there for years. It's right along one of my commute routes.
Sonic

Trad climber
Hilly, but no rocks Folsom, California
Nov 4, 2011 - 05:08pm PT
Bump
GILL

climber
Minden, NV
Feb 11, 2012 - 01:11am PT
Woodfords thread is awful quiet for the winter we've been having

Anyone know about the small canyons above Mama Cat and Big Bertha boulders?
I think there are about 4 small canyons. Anyone know there names?
The more eastern ones, close to Deadwood Canyon, have walls that are nice and tall!
Hiked up there a few times. Took 45-60 minutes depending how much I was wondering around looking at cool rock.
The canyon directly above the big gravel parking lot on the south side of the hwy has a real nice wall about 400' tall. It has a huge roof system in the middle of the wall about 200' up. There was a bolt and an escape biner 30' up on the left side of the wall. It was above a discontinuous finger crack. Looked scary. One hell of a drilling stance. Anyone know anything?
My climbing partner and I did a route in one of the crack systems that led us pretty far right of the huge roofs. It took us to the big ledge 200' up. This ledge spands almost the whole wall. We went left and scrambled up a gully to the summit. Great view!!! When we came down we went back to the right on the big ledge and rapped off a 10' pine tree. Noticed a few chalk marks on the rap. Someone TRing from the tree I guess? Looked like you could scramble up to the tree from the ground on the far right of the wall.
So the route we did was really dirty, has big bushes that we climbed through, and has a few loose blocks. We want to go and clean it. My big deal is I don't want to step on anyone's feet. If anyone knows anything about this area let me know on this tread or PM me. I'll try to get some good pics next time I go up there.
Thanks
justin01

Trad climber
sacramento
Feb 24, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
With the horrendous backcountry snow conditions for the weekend, we are thinking of going to woodfords for some easy peasy climbing on sunday...we are out of climbing shape. Anyone going to be there this weekend. We did left and right branch last summer on our way back from the eastside, but that was about it. Hoping to hit up the northside of the road this time, but a little mystified about what area has the most easy .6-.9's. The pdf guide is pretty limited in this area, but thinking they must lurk out there. I assume the authors were just not too interested. Should we just wander around the fortress trying to pick off 4th class climbs, hoping to score something only slightly harder. Hoping to do just a bit of exploring in the sun, and avoid the soon to form water ice and wind all over the backcountry. Sugestions?
Manimal

climber
SLT, Ca
Feb 24, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
There are only a couple climbs established in that grade range up there. I would suggest Luther Spires which gets great afternoon sun and which has been quite warm of late, with not much snow on the trail in. It's in the SLT Supertopo guide. However latest forecast shows cold arriving sooner than expected with temps dropping tomorrow and wind affecting the whole area. If at Woodfords, perfect lieback jumps to mind or there is another 5.8 way left of there in the books area, but it's a lot of hiking for limited climbing in those grades, not to mention the last time I was up there, just a couple weeks ago those climbs were mobbed. My 2 cents.
Ozmokis

Ice climber
Gardnerville, NV
Feb 24, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
I'm not super familiar with the area...but I have been out there before. I believe "The Perfect Lie Back" 5.8 is on the North Side.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/woodfords-canyon/106359636

Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Feb 24, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
I mean, the Fortress is the prime digs, although there's a 5.9 near the Mama Cat boulder I've seen in the topos. There are a few in the range... Perfect Lieback, Quoia the Destroya (cool 5.9) just right of I Be Jammin' (5.9...+?), Whisker Biscuit 5.9 (might be a little heady at the top), The Other Lieback 5.9, Red Pillar, the 5.7 and 5.8 climbs near Cat Scratch Fever. It looks like a hearty handful but things tend to go slowly up there in my experience. By the time you've done the slog up, you don't feel like sprinting through the manzanita and these climbs have a bit of up and down and slogging around between them.

So, there's that one seven I can think of, some decent eight, and moderate to hard nine. I always find Woodfords to climb the grade. Again, it may be that pre-drain of the hike speaking. I'd go for it though, it's a prime winter location.
justin01

Trad climber
sacramento
Feb 24, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
yeah, perfect layback definitely came to mind. I just figured, there is so much rock around there, there might by some crags that are lower angle with 4th class and up, depending on what you pick. Looking up the hills there is just too much rock not to hold plenty of easy climbing.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Feb 24, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
Justin I think by the time you get up there you want to do a climb, not more slogging. Seriously, that hike is probably harder than any 5.6 I've been on (just speaking effort, not technicality).
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Feb 24, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
Oh yeah, haven't been to those cliffs yet. One of these days... is a good climb.
justin01

Trad climber
sacramento
Feb 24, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
Cookie cliff area looks promising just because not much is invested from a time situation.

I don't mind walking or figuring or bushwacking (most likely the case), I just want to maximize my chances for a successful climbing day, complete with a solid workout. Last time we were there, we ended up spending more time trying to find stuff than climbing (hence only two climbs...actually really just one with two different finishes). Maybe we will tick off a few climbs near cracker cliff first to ensure some climbing. After a couple pitches, maybe we will just try to pick an easy rock and see if there are some easy cracks that go. Things lower down the canyon as it opens up look like they have some seriously easy faces. Granted you have to climb a 500ft tall kitty litter dune...
Manimal

climber
SLT, Ca
Feb 24, 2012 - 06:14pm PT
what's up with those "other" areas Ron? do you have more detail on the cliffs between the fortress and suicide falls? I hiked all the way up the canyon passing the penile pillar (what's that insanely beautiful crack on the east side of that?!!) and crossed the canyon, to the east, continued up and right, crossing another canyon where I came accross a face that faces west with some longish cracks on it. Scoped that out and continued down where in a large alcove came across some anchors above a crazy overhanging feature.....any info appreciated!!!
justin01

Trad climber
sacramento
Feb 24, 2012 - 06:53pm PT
How bad is the rock in suicide falls area? Is it worth it? 4 pitches sounds pretty nice to me. Is the R for bad rock or for easy runout face? Got a topo, all I see is a description.
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Feb 24, 2012 - 06:58pm PT
Justin,
There's a couple of good moderates past the second alcove. I don't know if they're in the PDF, but there's a great 5.7 hand crack, a cool 5.9 finger crack and a funky 5.8 offwidth. I'd be happy to show you but i'm gonna try to get some skiing in this weekend. If it stays warm, email me and I'd be happy to cruise up to the Canyon with you.

Eric
shiva5277@hotmail.com
Manimal

climber
SLT, Ca
Feb 25, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
Thanks Ron. It's nice to know there is plenty of adventure and fresh stone in the back yard, even in 2012. I hiked out to Pleasant Valley a couple summers having seen a blurb somehwere's and saw some beautiful stone. Didn't know how accommodating the fishing reserve folks are so parked up the road a way. Is that eally private property to the trail head? Is there an alternative approach from Grover side?
Meagher

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Mar 27, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
Never been to Woodfords to climb, but after driving by it thousands of times and thinking it looked like a good place to climb, I am thinking about heading there to check it out soon. From reading this forum it sounds like there is climbing on both the North and South side of the road is that correct?

At this point I am pretty out of shape so I am looking for the routes the easier side, any recommendations? Anything about the area, approach, parking that I should be aware of before I go?

GILL

climber
Minden, NV
Mar 29, 2012 - 11:49am PT
What part of the canyon is Bandit Crag at?
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Mar 29, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
Ron I have the topo to bandit if your around your shop I'll drop it by today.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Mar 29, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
Bandit buttress
Bandit buttress
Credit: BurnRockBurn

This is bandit buttress. Heading west from Woodford station about half a mile there is a huge parking area on the left. Park there. Head across the highway and you should find a well defined trail. There are four bolted climbs on it. Ill try to get the topo on it later. To the left is a 5.7-5.8 bolted crack (A break in security)...(I didnt do it so leave it alone) It is actually a really good place to teach trad leading as if they get nervous there is a bolt to clip instead of gear. Middle route is 5.8 bolted (Prowler). It shares and anchor with the next climb to the right of it at 5.9 (cat burglar). Around the side is a 4 bolt 5.10 (Cervazas in Zapata Land) All FA by Brian Chandler and Larry Van Sant
Theme is "leave the gear and bring the beer"
70 Meter rope is needed expecially for "break in security"

There is a trad route further to the right of Cervezas in Zapata land I put up in 2008 5.8 R that follows a corner system to the top. No anchor with a walk off. FOLLOF (Fear of Love Love of Fear

The gulley to the left of Bandit Buttres is a 3 route trad wall called April Fools wall. Put up by Dan Kennedy and Myself 4-1-08
You can see it to the left in the above picture
April Fools Wall <br/>
Chim pulling up the bag o drill for the anchor plac...
April Fools Wall
Chim pulling up the bag o drill for the anchor placement
Credit: BurnRockBurn
Anchors are below the tallest point where Dan is hanging out
Dirty 5.8 to the left
Middle crack 5.10 (where the pig is in the pic)
Right crack is 5.9
Can be run out before the anchors. Place a small cam at your feet on a ledge or you run it our 20+ feet to anchors.

Enjoy
Shawn
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 7, 2012 - 09:15pm PT
What are the routes on the back of one of these days? a bolted face, a red tagged bolt, short dihedral and some stuff across the gully
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 8, 2012 - 09:33pm PT
All I hear is woodfords, woodfords, woodfords now I need a little info and nata. has the woodfords crew lost interest?
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 8, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
Finally got on "one of these days" today. Great route, even though I missed the onsight by about 10 feet. I'll be back:)
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 8, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
That's definately an awesome route and there are many other cool lines around I'm trying to get a hold of a topo for some of the surrounding routes. Tomorrow afternoon I think will just climb what looks good and figure it out later.
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 8, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
There were a few folks climbing on the cliff directly across the creek from One of these days. Don't know what they were on but it looked pretty fun.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 8, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
Yeah, Climbed over there on sun. The routes we did were a bit dirty but fun.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
May 9, 2012 - 12:19am PT
Finally got on "one of these days" today. Great route, even though I missed the onsight by about 10 feet. I'll be back:)


Good go, Gomez! Did you "warm up" on it? I barely squeaked out the onsight with OOTD as a warmup and I will NOT be doing that again. I got away with something on that one. Let me know when you're headed back there, that would be some good endurance training for the bigger stuff ;).

The face climb(s) to the left of OOTD look pretty righteous as well.

GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 9, 2012 - 12:25am PT
Yep "warmed up" on it I was pretty warm within the first 20 or so feet though:) I messed up at the top and tried to go too high, fell off and hung and saw the right way, felt like 5.9 once I saw the line. Oh well, I'll get it next time. That thing is pumpy though for sure.
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
May 9, 2012 - 12:43am PT
good job Gomez!!! there is a decent .10a to the right that is good to warm up on. not great, but does serve as a good warm up. You can also TR a sweet .11 off the ten as well. I'll give you a shout tomorrow and catch up with ya!!

GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 9, 2012 - 01:00am PT
Cool Dave, been wanting to catch up with you too. Need to tell you about skiing in AK, it was epic!!
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
May 9, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
Gomez,
Let me know when you're headed back out there. I'm off on weekends!!!
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
May 9, 2012 - 07:23pm PT
kenny t - i believe the short corner is a 5.9 and fun. then up and next to it a bolted 5.9ish. then behind that is a 10c- ish thing called green tongue, i think, not positive on the name. then to the right down lower from that is a 5.8 route and have fun.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 9, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
Thank's czar
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 10, 2012 - 12:37am PT
Yeah Freido, I will, sounds good!!
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 12, 2012 - 02:47am PT
Chim-chim, thank you! I will definitely check those out. I did in fact notice the rockfall area, it looked fairly new so that makes sense. What were the routes you guys were climbing.

Thanks,
Steve
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 12, 2012 - 07:21pm PT
anyone have a topo for cloudburst canyon they are willing to share?
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
May 13, 2012 - 03:14am PT
Damn you guys are killin me with woodfords talk. As Dave G knows I'm In the middle of moving and can't get my cragging on for a while. Ron I've been saying for years we need a good ole get together in the canyon. Hopefully this summer/fall we can set something up. Have fun out there and hope to be out in a couple of weeks


Credit: BurnRockBurn
Ativan grin 10b. Longest Left leaning white streak on the right side of pic and Halcion hallucination 5.9 to the right. Another 5.9 ish to the right of Halcion
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 13, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
Ron, Dano told me about that arete behind the cabin in the early 90s and I stopped by and there were no bolts up high then. I don't know whats up with that you could steal two hangers without hardly leaving the ground. I live two minutes away pm me if you want to fix it up it looks perty cool.
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 13, 2012 - 05:39pm PT
Sweet thanks BRB!!
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
May 15, 2012 - 01:37am PT
Kenny.
Ron gave me some hardware to fix that route a couple years ago. If you want to go out and fix it I'm in. Unfortunately my hardware is buried in storage for two weeks. If you have some I will replace it with bolts from Ron's donation. What's your schedule like? I have Friday sat Sunday off. Friday probably is best for me but I'm flexible
Shawn

Gomz. Your welcome. Those were my first routes I ever put up. Three days hanging to clear out the cracks.
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
May 16, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
Gomez,
I know of 5 plus routes near One Of These Days that you might enjoy. I did two onsights the other day. and there are three to five other climbs I know of in Cloudburst Canyon. Let's try to get out there soon!
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
May 16, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
A guide (even photo copied hand drawn would work) giving the general lay out would sell...
Otherwise, I think I'll just go walk up to some rock and climb...

What could possibly go wrong with that plan? ;-)
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
May 26, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
up in Markleeville for the weekend. Haven't climbed in South Lake area. Woodfords sounds cool. Would love to know where mixed climbs are (crack, face?). Any info greatly appreciated.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jun 28, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
Anybody wanna climb there tomorrow?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jul 3, 2012 - 06:33pm PT
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Short but fun route at Woodcutters wall what is it?
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 3, 2012 - 06:43pm PT
Unnamed as of Ron's old guide. Dan may have climbed and named it by now. Nice little climb though. Keep heading up the hill to "the steeple". Fun stuff up there. Dan has beta on mountain project
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Jul 4, 2012 - 01:52am PT
thats a 10c or d. super fun.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jul 20, 2012 - 07:14pm PT
Shiny new anchor up and right of the green tongue. What is it? Doe's anyone know the projected date of completion of the low angle route down and right of that?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Aug 4, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
Credit: kennyt
Dan, I'll hook you up with a few bolts never noticed those anchors before looked new. If you need some bolts pm me
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Aug 12, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
hey, i found one grey sock(not sticky) and a nice one dollar bill at the base of that 5.9 plus dihedral across from green tongue. im keeping the dollar. also dan, one in my party released a torso sized block off duststorm. its at the base, buried in the dirt. later.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Aug 12, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
Kenny and chim

I'll split the bolt count and anchors with you for cloud walker
Just want to be in on that one. Been wanting to finish that one with chim for a couple years. Chim and I had the bolt placements marked a couple years ago and got caught up on other projects.
Keep me in the loop when you want to do it. Busting ass on Burningman stuff right now but would be ready to hit it after the burn
Shawn
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Aug 12, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
Hey Shawn, You and Dan should bolt that thing up. I'm just offering some bolts and hangers if you guy's need them. Kenny
Credit: kennyt
Any of you guy's climb this thing at S.T.Buttress?
Silver

Gym climber
Aug 14, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
I wanna come out and play with you guys some day soon.

Looks really good.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Aug 15, 2012 - 10:18am PT
Ron I Havnt forgot to replace the stolen ones there. Chim we will get together soon. Tell Sasha hello from shanada
Shawn
CHOSS BOSS

Trad climber
Crumbly Corners
Aug 29, 2012 - 08:00pm PT
Where in the hell is Woodferds?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Aug 29, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
Same place it's always been.

Where the hell are you?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
A one-of-a-kind finish...

Credit: Footloose

Oops, wrong thread. (Blame it on the strawberry daiq.)

Don't be jealous, Woodfords, I'll be back, we're still bff!
CHOSS BOSS

Trad climber
Crumbly Corners
Sep 3, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
CRICKETS...............................
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
If any locals want to drop in, I'll be at Woodfords tomorrow for a few sets on One of These Days. Just let me know.

My shoulders and back need strength maintenance if not building, ha! for an upcoming high sierra project. Took it for granted on a recent Mithral Dihedral ctc that ended up spanking them. And me. Humbly. (Of course, one could also argue it was my lousy core and footwork given that glorious crack, I wouldn't argue the point.)

At my age, there's no more taking this sport for granted. Serious stuff!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
Yes, Woodfords has been a heavenly place of late. Inspiration for next time...
Woodfords
Woodfords
Credit: Footloose

Plenty of 4th and easy 5th, too, for you wilderness explorer types as well. Lots of easy 5th FAs, too, for the kids. 'Tis the season on the sunny south-facing side. At least through tomorrow!

More later, woo-hoo!

Two really fun climbs here above Sun Wall
Two really fun climbs here above Sun Wall
Credit: Footloose
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2012 - 05:38pm PT
Hey all,

I'm looking for a few bolts and hangers to establish a little something out my way: Jobs Peak foothills area.

Sunny Delight, 100 feet, vertical with a roof pull, liebacks, plates, ...
Sunny Delight, 100 feet, vertical with a roof pull, liebacks, plates, nubbins and cracks - reminiscent of OoTD except southwest facing like Sun Wall at Woodfords
Credit: Footloose

Kenny, any of these left you might want to part with?

Credit: kennyt

Thanks.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 15, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
Bill, I'm sure I could spare a few.


Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
Good to hear, Kenny!

Thanks you guys, let's just have back that outrageous sunny warm weather once again now!

So we can all get back to cragging on those awesome south facing sides!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2012 - 11:39am PT
Chim, good to hear.

Hey, what bolt standard, or standards, are you using in Woodfords nowadays?



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kqwxN8u_9w&feature=player_embedded

BTW,

It's interesting that 3/8 sleeve anchors only have a 5/16 threaded core. That leans me as a noob bolter to think of preferring the wedge anchor whose size matches the threaded core. Example: 3/8 equals 3/8. But then I'm only a noob thinking about this.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 26, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
Bill, call white cap in reno and order up powers (formerly rawl) 5 piece 3/8 x 2 1/2 stainless steel and your good to go. those thinks are good to like 7000lb in shear in good granite
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
I checked into White Cap, guy's going to call me back with price.

bolts vs studs

So is there a push in Woodfords to go with removeable bolts rather than nonremoveable studs?

I mean, if I set a few anchors with SS wedge studs now that it's the 21st century, not the 20th, anyone like Kenny or Dan or Ron (or that guy in the video using a torque wrench) going to bitch slap me for my choice? :)



Or maybe I'm just overthinking it and should just go get it done.

Yeah, just go get it done. LOL!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 26, 2012 - 02:27pm PT
Bitch slap them back.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 26, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
Bill, Make sure you leave fixed draws on everything you bolt if you want to maximize the supertopo expert bitch slappin.

I walked all the way up to bandit crag and no fixed draws wtf who's in charge up there? below are a few other items which may come in handy on your bolting adventure

supervising supertopians
supervising supertopians
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
some of these in neon green or orange should do
some of these in neon green or orange should do
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 26, 2012 - 04:51pm PT
Credit: kennyt
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 27, 2012 - 12:26pm PT
Credit: kennyt
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Nov 27, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
yeah dan, great climb with a great crux and still a fun eggy finish, thanks for gettin me up there. get on it!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 27, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
What's an "eggy finish"?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Nov 28, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
Ah, you're being cute. There's some cool looking, obvious lines past Jammin' for Jehovah, I imagine it's up in there somewhere.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 05:18pm PT
what we REALLY need is a flight through the canyon to photograph it...

Woodfords Fortress Google Earth
Woodfords Fortress Google Earth
Credit: Footloose and Google Earth

Ron, Google Earth. It's the source.



Of course the app does a much better job than this pic of course.

Same picture, marked up:

Fortress Area, Woodfords. <br/>
Yellow circle:  Perfect Lieback.  Red Circ...
Fortress Area, Woodfords.
Yellow circle: Perfect Lieback. Red Circles: Routes that recently kicked my ass!! :)
Credit: Footloose

By all means, get Google Earth, if you don't already have it.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
One more, a close up, of an interest of late:
Credit: Footloose

Worthy!
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Nov 28, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
we really need a gondola up there, right Kennyt?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 28, 2012 - 07:43pm PT
I think the gondolas a few years out. Hey Dan, Bauer was gonna give me the tour but he's leaving town for a few maybe you can show me around next time your heading up. looks like it's going to be wet for a few.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 28, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
Andre, How's the foot doing?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 28, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
After a holiday weekend trip to the gorge the solitude of Woodfords sound's awesome
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 28, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
That's f*#ked up.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 28, 2012 - 09:40pm PT
the next time they take your leading license let them keep it!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 28, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
some bouldering essentials you may have overlooked.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#275995
approved padding and spotter
approved padding and spotter
Credit: kennyt
colorful body art
colorful body art
Credit: kennyt
encouraging onlookers
encouraging onlookers
Credit: kennyt
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Nov 28, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
too late for that advice Kenny.

Its been fun, but this is a pretty good thread. Too much much drift. I am deleting my posts.
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Nov 29, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
Kenny,
I know a few routes on the fortress. I'd be happy to show you when it's dry...
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 30, 2012 - 10:58am PT
That sounds good a little woodfords windstorm should dry things right up.
JerryA

Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:21am PT
Topic Official Sponser : www.woodfordreserve.com .
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:49pm PT
Credit: kennyt

Woodfords today. soggy
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:58pm PT
Credit: kennyt


woodfords mon....
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
Bolting experts, a question or two...

Credit: Footloose

What's the theory behind using the little blue plastic piece atop the sleeve? I mean why not just go with the metal sleeve all the way to the end? If you get my meaning...

Credit: Footloose

What say you if I mounted a carbon steel hanger atop an SS bolt, is that a major faux pas in the business?

Thanks for your help.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
If you remove the blue sleeve you may void the warranty therfore opening yourself up to a costly lawsuit

http://www.powers.com everything you need to know about the 5 piece bolts and the blue compression ring
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
But you're neglecting the 20 sec rule: if you replace the blue sleeve within 20 seconds, you're good! ;)

Ron, I simply mean mixing an SS bolt and a CS hanger (for lack of an SS hanger) - would that get me bitch slapped by you guys?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
Bill, Ive placed hundreds of cs bolts with ss hangers bitd and the only thing I've noticed is the washers rust a little paint the hangers if your worried about it if the two metals aren't in contact galvanic corrosionc shouldn't occur. If your going to spend the $$$$ on ss bolts why not fork out the extra buck for a compatible hanger?


You will probably be bitched slapped anyhow

Stainless steel hangers from metolius 3.50

Fixe plated steel hanger 2.40
bolt now pay later
bolt now pay later
Credit: kennyt
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
Hey Footloose, there are plenty of stainless steel hangers up at the bandit crag next to those cracks.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 03:24pm PT
Kenny, you're crackin me up over here, lol!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
I have cabin fever today
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 30, 2012 - 07:30pm PT
Credit: kennyt
woodfords 4:30 pm
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 2, 2012 - 01:37pm PT
It's been pouring all night here. one mile from the canyon
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 2, 2012 - 03:06pm PT
I'd think it would be better, make some of that sand stick together. I've done the approach in the rain, I don't remember it being terrible beyond the usual huff and puff. Give us a crack report if you go up, so we know which ones retain the moisture after a rain storm ;).

I bet shallow cracks and face climbs would be good to go with a little wind and sun, not sure about the deeper sort. To this day though, I've only climbed Quoia in the rain. It added something as the moss became slimy.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
Yeah, I'm in... the Eiger psyche!
2 dec 2012, East side, Tahoe Rim Trail
2 dec 2012, East side, Tahoe Rim Trail
Credit: Footloose

The Eiger psyche is a rare bird. None but mine manifest this morning.

2 dec 2012. Summit photo
2 dec 2012. Summit photo
Credit: Footloose

Can you all tell which way the wind was blowing? LOL!
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Dec 3, 2012 - 01:00am PT
So where's the camping around there? The only reason I haven't made it up there more than once was because I couldn't figure out where any plush (free) camping was. Also, I could really use a tour guide.


On another note, you guys are crazy if you're using Metolius hangers. Those are so 90's and like getting Starbucks when 7-11 will do.
In good faith I'll let you all onto my secret. ClimbTech gear has stainless hangers for 2.45, but you can talk em down to 1.95 if you get 100 bucks or more. They also have plated steel hangers for 1.65ea and Powers stud bolts for 1.75ea which is a pretty good deal. There's a good sale going on for 5/16 quicklinks for .75 cents each too.

So, about that tour guide?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 01:52am PT
Sal,

Good to hear you're eyeing Woodfords again. Unfor I can't do tomorrow (looks like only partly sunny anyways, via point forecast) but let's get on it !! next sunny weather break as I've been wanting to get together a long time now. Are high temps required? Hell no. Because winter side is all south facing and when hit by the sun in these alcoves she gets warm even at 45.

Now of course a tour is going to cost you later this spring though - I'm thinking a partner - adventurous, hard-driving - either at the Hulk, Keeler or at this Angel Wings spectacle.

Next sunny weather, I'll PM you.

Maybe you can get out weekdays also.



P.S. I discovered ClimbTech (thanks again BT), and ordered bolts, hangers and quick links from them just last week. It was a good deal.



http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.78781013665601&lon=-119.80865478515625

Next weekend forecasted sunny, maybe.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 3, 2012 - 03:49am PT
So where's the camping around there? The only reason I haven't made it up there more than once was because I couldn't figure out where any plush (free) camping was. Also, I could really use a tour guide.


I would tour ya around, but they won't let me climb right now.

If you got there and couldn't find free camping, we'd need to revoke all that manly wandering in the woods stuff you carry on about ;). It's pretty easy, just go to one of the several pullouts that isn't a campground or a neighborhood and camp.

edit: Oh yeah, Footloose, if you can't find a partner, I'm doing Positive Vibes, hell or high water this next season. We'll see if I'm in "gunning" shape for that, I'm recovering from some broken sh#t right now, but I'll certainly swap leads.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 3, 2012 - 10:38am PT
I,love to spend my extra money on metolius hangers and expensive bolts.

Sal, there is more "plush"free camping than you could even imagine a stones throw away from the canyon
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 3, 2012 - 07:32pm PT
Dan, what route are you on in the above photo?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
Chim,

Didn't make it to Woodfords but the clearing in Carson Valley today was impressive...
Carson Valley, looking south to Woodfords
Carson Valley, looking south to Woodfords
Credit: Footloose

Next time you come through, I'll introduce you to one of my favorite local workout crags...
Carson Valley Sentinel
Carson Valley Sentinel
Credit: Footloose

I know you'd enjoy this one...
Sunny Delight, 100 feet, vertical with a roof pull, liebacks, plates, ...
Sunny Delight, 100 feet, vertical with a roof pull, liebacks, plates, nubbins and cracks - reminiscent of OoTD except southwest facing like Sun Wall at Woodfords
Credit: Footloose

Did you make it out to Kirkwood? what's the snow condition now up there?


Jebus, get strong, next spring we'll swing, woohoo!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 3, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
One of my favorite workout spots, I need to get up there!

Credit: kennyt
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
Yeah, Ron, I knew posting that pic to the post might cause some confusion. I just wanted to stir the juices regarding bolting and what not. But the Jobs Peak expedition is still on, of course just have to wait out the season or the weather now. In the meantime, there is Woodfords and Carson Valley Sentinel to keep me fit.

You've been there, to CVS? How cool is that? Where haven't you been, ha! Never noticed any pins but I do have a pretty killer rope solo setup on Sunny Delight for sunny seasonal days like today. You're more than welcome to come by and have a go on it. Better than Dino Rock, yes. Better than that Prison Hill Crag, yes. Better than Washoe Boulders, yes. I do think you'd be impressed!

In fact, got a bit of a sunburn today. :)

One of my favorite workout spots

KT, we have much in common!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Dec 3, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
KWood was working on it's own definition of a $hit show this morning.
Not a single chair was loading until 10:15 and by then a rather large gathering had amassed at the base of chairs 5 and 6. % started running and the line grew as people bailed on 6 for 5. I think 6 started moving just as we decided to bail, probably around 11:30 or so.

The snow off trail wasn't that great, at least bottom of the mt. Skiable breakable (shudder) crust. I hate that word, but that's what it was. But not total tail grabbing, nearly impossible to ski breakable, you could turn on it, but it wasn't very good.

Did not hang out to find out if the high stuff ever got open. Congrats to those who stuck it out and maybe got some good skiing in.
It was kind of a disappointing day.

Kirkwood has an impressive amount of snow on the ground for early December however.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
wml,

Here's the coordinates: 39.114912,-119.800251
There is a 30 minute approach to the CV Sentinel.

It works for me (1) because I'm local, (2) because it's right next to my running circuit. (I run to it, hop on Sunny Delight or Winters Haven, climb, descend, run some more. Some days, this is heaven on earth.)

Hope this helped. Maybe come spring, we'll get a chance to meet at Wordfords or something. I hear you like the high sierra endeavors as well. Any friend of the hs is a friend of mine. Happy climbing!



EDIT No, not true!
Those must be the coordinates to the brothel next to Ron's workplace, ha!!
Hang on, testing...

Trailhead: 39.091835, -119.805543
Sentinel: 39.102073, -119.815650

EDIT Actually, the first set of coordinates are to Dinosaur Rock.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
Haha, might be old-school then, Ron.

Sunny Delight is 5.9+ or 5.10, depending on variation.
Winter's Haven, a short crack climb to climber's left, is 5.10.

Both likely to give a good pump to the 5.9 climber new to the site.
Drop on in next sunny weather you have Dinosaur Rock on your mind and I'll show.

P.s.

Recall The Left Seam at Dinosaur Rock. 10a (according to Carville), I don't know? But Sunny Delight is MORE than comparable in length and difficulty. Plus, it's in the sun in the winter noon on.

P.S. I'll have to revisit DR with the Carville Guide in hand to make sense of the route names. Now I'm confused. But SD is more than comparable to the two most popular routes on the main face facing the road, best way to say it.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 4, 2012 - 06:58pm PT

Jebus, get strong, next spring we'll swing, woohoo!


Spring would be too soon for my fling, I was thinking August/September. Plus, I'm a total snow/ice retard. Like, completely inept, so I need those flight paths cleared up there. I'll keep you on the roster though, I know you've been wanting to get up there and I will not be deterred from getting up Posi Vibes. I saw it from Red Dihedral this August and knew it would be mine, all mine next year.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 6, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
It's gonna be toasty here today.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 7, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
Had work stuff today are you going up tomorrow?
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:56pm PT
Gang..What about the obvious rock above the hot springs up on the hill?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:00pm PT
Ron has the beta on that stuff.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:12pm PT
kennyt...do you guys need climbing partners?...I have a friend who just got a place in Markleeville and is looking for people to climb with...
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 8, 2012 - 07:04pm PT
sure, have him give a call(530) 694-1038 were heading out tomorrow morning
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Dec 8, 2012 - 09:14pm PT
Thanks Kenny!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
Right in our backyard.
Did you guys hear about this?

http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/lanow/2012/12/girlfriend-survives-boyfriend-dies-after-being-snowed-in.html

http://www.recordcourier.com/article/20121208/NEWS/121209915/1062&ParentProfile=1049

http://goo.gl/maps/SenWd

Damn.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 24, 2012 - 08:38pm PT
Christmas eve. @ the fortress
Credit: kennyt
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 24, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
What route is this?
Credit: kennyt
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
Anyone get out to Woodfords today?

If so, how were the temp inversion effects? Especially at the Fortress area. I'm thinking of going tomorrow.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 16, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
Meet yer maker
Meet yer maker
Credit: kennyt
give me a call Bill.
you could climb here if you wanted
you could climb here if you wanted
Credit: kennyt
Spark Arrestor
Spark Arrestor
Credit: kennyt
Ugly Stick
Ugly Stick
Credit: kennyt
Static Cling
Static Cling
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
Will do Kenny, thanks.

Looking south along the Carson Range toward Woodfords 15 jan 2013
Looking south along the Carson Range toward Woodfords 15 jan 2013
Credit: Footloose
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 18, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
Hey Dan, The beginning is still pretty snow covered the steep section is pretty good someone was up there the otherday. so it's def. doable
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 18, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
Dan, I walked up to sunwall today, It was perfect I'm hoping to get up sun. or mon. too
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 19, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.7872749142083&lon=-119.81414794921875
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 21, 2013 - 08:48pm PT
Today around noon I saw 5 cars parked at the bottom of Fortress and three people on the bridge taking pictures. Anybody from ST?
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 21, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
Cool. Post some picks gentelmen!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
Lucky dogs!

Looks like it was a beautiful day down there. Thanks for posting up.


How you'd guys make out on Walking Jack?

On sight? Red point? Hanging jack? :)
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 22, 2013 - 01:25am PT
Thank you WML.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 22, 2013 - 09:07am PT
A #6 on Walking Jack? I think I led it safely with a 3.5" friend as the big piece? I love that crack, it's some good trad bouldering. I'm pretty sure it's not 5.10a though, Weston, you have a fascinating grade-o-meter ;).
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2013 - 11:42am PT
On the Perfect Lieback, it's always an issue for me: Where to put that first piece! Among other things, running it out can mean you REALLY REALLY trust your belayer. :)

That five foot section on Walking Jack has always humbled me. Maybe this season will be different, haha.


(If any of you guys rolling through the Carson Valley try out Sunny Delight at CV Sentinel, please let me know on the grade and rating, I'm looking for a consensus. So far it's 5.10 (not 5.9 afterall) and more than comparable in star quality to Dinosaur Rock's Color Me Gone. Sorry, Ron, lol. )
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
wml, yes, that flaring and frustrating (for me) crack section.

(Though I'd like to add I have a partner who not only floats it, but pauses in the middle of it after placing pro to beta me. Basterd, lol!)
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 22, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
Nice to see the Fords getting its winter gathering going on. Damn I need a break from work to get back out there......
April Fools Wall <br/>
Chim pulling up the bag o drill for the anchor plac...
April Fools Wall
Chim pulling up the bag o drill for the anchor placement
Credit: BurnRockBurn
I miss my second "Home"
Shawn
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 22, 2013 - 09:14pm PT

In no way do I think Walking Jack is actually 10a, fair 10c/+ish. I'm just saying that Sun Wall Left, comparatively, is extremely stiff for the grade.

I'd agree on SWL. I consider it 5.11a, although it's been more than a year since I got on it.

Woodfords is a Tahoe crag that doesn't seem to have the consensus other Tahoe crags do. Maybe that reflects true old school Tahoe area grades, not the creeping influence of road trippers and day trippers from the near west. To continue the dull rubric of comparison (at least on my ruler): If Cat Scratch Fever is 5.10a, I Be Jammin is easy 5.8+/9. If SWL is 5.10c, then Walking Jack is probably 5.10b, etc., etc....

For consistency, I mostly compare against the standard I see at other Tahoe crags to arrive at my personal grade, not using some sand bagged things at Woodfords to serve as my ruler against the climbs there. I mean, hell, you can go to Snowshed and rate everything by Karl's Gym if you want, but then Peter Principle is going to be 5.10c ;).

For true sand bagging at the Fords, go do a 5.9/10a called the Utah/NV border that is by the Hillside Strangler. It's the sneaky man's way of saying 5.9+! A Danno route I doubt many 5.10+ trad leaders will onsight. I wouldn't call it a great route, but it will certainly bitch slap the f*#k out of your ego if you hold to the grade.

kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 22, 2013 - 10:51pm PT
What difference does it make? It's a 5.12 approach to any of the routes

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.807610542357594&lon=-119.783935546875&site=rev&smap=1&marine=0&unit=0&lg=en


New and improved plus bolted anchor minus  bush
New and improved plus bolted anchor minus bush
Credit: kennyt
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 22, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
mr. burnrockburn, that april fools wall route you be doing looks an awful lot like a route Greg Dexter and i did 2 years ago. Wasn't no bolt, except near the top if i remember correctly, after we were done-just sayin....
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 11:24am PT
You mean Karl's gym and Nova aren't the golden standard for grading at Snowshed???! :-)


I got cleanly up Nova as a gym gumby crack n00b. 8+, tops ;).

Karl's Gym may just be a stylistic thing for me, some people find it easier than I do, but it sure seems harder than the 11- cracks I've done in the Donner area. Lead, TR, whatever, that crack dislikes me.

I guess it comes down to crag versus area ratings. In fact, I find grades remarkably consistent at most all the CA trad crags. From Joshua Tree to Tahquitz, Needles to Tuolumne, High Sierra to the Tahoe area, I'm never really thinking the grades are systematically off kilter (maybe Open Book was 5.10b though, hahaha).

There is a standard at Woodfords established by Smith and crew on certain routes, however, so it's a choice of honoring it or whitewashing it. I have my opinion of what the routes should be rated, of course, but if you honor the original while knowing it's going to be a testpiece there is really no harm except, perhaps, to the ego. I just don't think that standard necessarily applies to grading other routes, it's more of an asterisk deal.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
Dan, Sound's like yer route got retro bolt by an anti bolter.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
bolt war! Whoo!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
Just like BITD! no need to chop just mash the hangers flat with a hammer to really get your point across;)
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
April fools wall was done April 1 2008. Only bolts on it should be the anchor. Just saying as well
Shawn
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
Shawn, I'm sure his memory is not what it used to be.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
Just like BITD! no need to chop just mash the hangers flat with a hammer to really get your point across;)


I've always liked the sight of mangled bolts and hammered down hangers! While you're at it you should take a loose crap and wipe your ass while slowly rapping down the rock. That'll show 'em! When the brown dookie smear transitions to the blood of your raw ass on the rock, they'll know you are seriously butt hurt!
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
If you had to place a bolt on a route that already had anchors on it WTF. It's fairly obvious the route has been done before. We did it on gear only. Thus no bolt. I'm not going to waste my time pulling it cause I would rather climb.
Just saying again
Shawn
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
I could never understand how smashed hangers were somehow better than rap installed bolts.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
Ron, Didn't he imp-lie that they did the f.a. with only one bolt when they were done? It's funny anyhow just another BITD prodding.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
Instead of complaining about this sh#t how about some ex. route maint. like that first crux route is cool but the walk off with a foot of snow is lame. seems like these forty foot routes without bolted anchors might actually get done with fixed anchors. most of those routes are sportcracks.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 02:46pm PT
More like it's 30' and they're never goin back so why waste the time and money.

Were not talking about classics here. I pulled the conveniance slings from the tree on nev/utah and replaced them with painted two bolt anchor is that bad? I'm 99% sure if Dan were around and I asked him he would not have an issue with it.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
always loved the way twenty multi colored slings looked wrapped around some tree. O.k. I put the anchors near nev/utah for a new ten foot arete route. anyone doesn't like them they can rap of the hammered slings that were up there.

EDIT: what about the bolted anchors on hillside strangler and stranglehold? did you use those? you can easilly walk off led zepparete and you don't even need the belay bolt at yer waist
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:10pm PT
Heh. I do believe somebody took my nice bd double length and replaced it with thier hammered out sling on NV/UT! Or else it got hammered out, lol. I was with the wife and she didn't want to futz around with walk offs when I climbed that rig. Probably that's how convenience anchors started. Yes, honey, I'm coming down now!

Those anchors on Hillside are nice for convenience.
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
Saving a tree is a good thing for everybody.

Rap bolts anywhere are good for me - I don't like walking ;)
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
Jebus, I have your sling and biner. you can have it back or maybe I'll put it back so ron and rick can rap off it!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
The rest were done with naturals, because they were so abundant.
Exactly,So in other words it would have cost a fortune.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
Ah, man, keep it Kenny. As long as you strangle some other hapless tree with it, I am cool with that. I have some tied webbing I used to get off Jammin' for Jehovah across the canyon too. I went too high and missed the anchors on Smearing for Jesus people apparently used. Another strangled tree :(.

Hehehehe... I love ethics. And convenience anchors!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
After the approach to the Fortress one could truly appreciate some conveniance.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
We climbed CLEAN BITD..
not always;)
Stolen from Ron Anderson
Stolen from Ron Anderson
Credit: kennyt

kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
Just effin around Ron no offense
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 23, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
Thanks for the backup chim. We also did the 5.8r route to the right of bandit buttress (FA) the same day F.O.L.L.O.F. Fear of love love of fear
Aka my divorce route
Shawn

I didn't know one pic would cause so much talk about climbing. Maybe ill post more photos!!
Credit: BurnRockBurn

Enjoying one of my rare days off with my future bride
velvet!

Trad climber
La Cochitaville
Jan 23, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
Is there anywhere decent to bivy if one wanted to spend a week around the area this time of year?? Camp ground open? Mega cold at nights?

Also, how steep/long is the approach more or less? I've gotta a leg that requires some delicacy at the moment.

The boyfriend is coming in from England in two weeks and we've got about a week to kill in between my work stints in the Bay Area. Thought this place might be just the ticket if the weather is nice. Thoughts??

:)
lib
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 23, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
Velvet, the temperature can drop below 0 F at night. If you can drive 20-30 min there are number of motels in Carson Valley.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
Some thought it would be convenient to have a bolted easy crack at "bandit crag" too..
Yeah, I'm not even sure you need your hands for that one.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 24, 2013 - 12:38am PT
Kenny
I don't like that bolted crack but its already there. I've used it to teach people to lead trad on. If they get freaked about trad placement they can clip up. It's shitty that it was bolted but I'm just gonna get the best out bad situation. Routes fun either way.
Ran into the guy who bolted it and he said he wanted a crag in woodfords that you could "leave your gear and bring more beer".
Again don't agree but........beer is good
Shawn
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 27, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
Anyone available wed. or thurs. next week for the Fortress?
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 27, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
Hey guys and gals,

Didn't mean to start any controversey over April Fools Wall. Haven't checked this thread in quite awhile. I wasn't claiming any first ascent since there was already a bolt anchor on top when we did it. I just thought the picture and caption about pulling up the bolt kit was of a later ascent. Anyway i'm not claiming any first ascents down there except for Suicide Falls center 5.10x in 1978 with Steve Miller and possibly Sole fusion with Billy Price in 1980.Did other highly visible and desirable features there in the early to mid 1970's but i knew there had already been quite a bit of activity and such obvious features surely would have already been climbed.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 29, 2013 - 11:53am PT
Thanks for clearing that up Rick. Suicide falls has been calling me for a long time except for the x rating. I kinda like not killing myself for a climb
Shawn
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 29, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
So Ron how do you feel about making an X route safe by placing a bolt or two?
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 29, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
Thanks Ron. I never want to F up a route but I also want them safe. As you know woodfords rock can be quite loose and difficult to protect in some places. Hope to try those routes this summer so I don't want change your routes
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Jan 29, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
Still diggin all the BITD photos Ron!
Wish I would have taken more pics, but dragging around the old Pentax SLR with
a 400mm zoom was a PITA.
Tad
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 29, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
Were headin up tomorrow a.m. if anyones interested
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 29, 2013 - 09:58pm PT


Has anyone climbed it since I put the bolts in ?

It's a great route.

Nice work Ron
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 29, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
Scott,are you working tomorrow?


Has anyone climbed it since I put the bolts in ?
yeah it's still a little run out.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 29, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
Hey kenny,

I want to climb but I'm working

looks like a great day have fun
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
Kenny, have fun. Wish I had more time, I'd like to join you. Hopefully later as the season gets going. I just bumped the Suicide area high up on my Woodfords list, can't wait to check it out.

When you make it north to Carson or whatever, give a call, I'll break away and show you Sunny Delight. You'd like it.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 30, 2013 - 12:09am PT
Ron and Burnrock and others: The route at Suicide Falls Miller and i did was up the center of the face to the right of the falls and we called it Senior Center Slab since there was a small senior center at Woodfords in those days that we began our approach from. We simply walked up there and picked what we thought of as the most direct and aesthetic route on the formation. What i remember is a moderate first pitch. An increasingly difficult and steeper 2nd pitch which was in discontinuos seems with very little protection and 5.10 mantle a long ways out from anything reliable.There was a final short and steep pitch to the top of the formation.Unfortunately i lost all of my climbing pictures, notes, etc. to high ground water in the crawlspace of my first home in Alaska in 1986 otherwise i would be posting pics from the past of the greater Tahoe area on this forum. P.S. The rock was pretty chossy in comparison to the Leap or the Loaf being granular if not downright crumbly
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 30, 2013 - 12:32am PT
this thread wins
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 30, 2013 - 10:24am PT
and the grand prize is.....
















Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jan 30, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
Great comments. I love the old photos. They retain some amount of mystery that hi-res pics can take away from a route.

While the knowledge is being spread, anyone know anything about this bohemeth? It's located in the canyon west of Bandit Crag (northside of the hwy). There was a bolt spotted on the lowest part of the wall as of Jan 2012 (bottom left side of the pic right of the pine tree). The wall is not as consistently steep as it appears, with several blocky, loose bands, but there are a few descent possibilities. Anyone know of any routes on this guy?

This obvious formation sits on the left side of the canyon west of Ban...
This obvious formation sits on the left side of the canyon west of Bandit Crag.
Credit: Laine
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jan 30, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
Here's a few shots from downhill and mid-wall. I was excited about the possibilities from afar but thought it rather lackluster up close, though a few single pitchers looked ok.

Credit: Laine

Credit: Laine
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jan 30, 2013 - 04:51pm PT
Colin Hupp and Mike Stroschien did a route somewhere near called "over booked" (5.9) that had 1 bolt below a small roof traverse and corners below- crack finish-- back in 89

Well the bolt is at the end of a shallow little crack and I remember speculating if the party continued up into runout slab terrority (no other bolts) or if they traversed right into a good looking, right-facing book 1 pitch up (see the shaded corner in the second picture). That book is the most obvious line on the wall but you can't take a direct approach to it. I wouldn't be surprised if this is the route you described, Ron.

Maybe something like this?
Overbooked?
Overbooked?
Credit: Laine
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 30, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
Dan, I climbed at the Fortress with Mark B today I have to agree with Milton Mugambe on the quality of the Whisker biscuit. I did take a bit of a beating on Walking Jack though.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 30, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
Ron you have to refresh my memory-it was only 34.5 years ago. So soon i forget things. Anyway ,is what you call Suicide Falls in the Flying Block area the biggest formation in the lower part of the canyon and right of the creek?If so, and Flying Block takes a direct line up the best looking part of the tallest section then i believe it is very similar to Senior Center Slab.We climbed it hammerless and found protection to be very sparse sept. 1978.Could have used some pins or bolts and probably still does.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 30, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
Ron i only remember the route because we got a downright thrill (read scared us silly) out of the business pitch. Your description and picture dont do much to jar the memory loose other than to mention hard mantles which we encountered.I remember dead seems, that didn't take protection worth a shat, more than grooves. Of course it was 34.5 years ago and we never went back to that formation.Somewhere up canyon is a 4-6 pitch arete with cracks from finger to chimney but mainly offwidth to chimney in the 5.9 range that my younger brother Pat and i did in the early 70's.I'll be damned if i can even sight what formation it was on these days.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Jan 30, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
Dig the stories Ron!
OK so you gave us the "Flying Block" story,
that must have made a big noise when it hit the base.

Any backstory to "Beaulah the Pumper"?
How many pukes to that formation?
.7 sounds good, right at my geezer limit. LOL

Tad

kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 30, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
Ron,I think Scott was bullshitting.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Jan 30, 2013 - 08:15pm PT
Thanks Ron,
kinda thought it would be fire fighter related.

Love this thread,
Rons old photos rock,
but you guys that go up often need to take some pics and post em up
PLEASE!
Tad
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 30, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
Ron, I thought Scott was just messin around but he did say he had done sumphin up there.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 31, 2013 - 01:09am PT
No bullsh#t

I did it.

We cleaned the sh#t out of it too.

It's hard to know whats what
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 31, 2013 - 01:28am PT
I've been looking at that photo and I can't rember.

I did two routes one 5.10 and another 5.11 all cleaned and bolted. Starting from the top of pitch one of Ron's route.

Like I said I'm not sure.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 31, 2013 - 11:42am PT
My friend Jaimie found a wall a few years ago, and kept it in the "vault" until about a week ago when we snowshoed our way up to the best new find in the Woodfords area in quite a while. !00 feet or so to the top, and the right side overhangs nine feet in ninety.
Spill the beans.


Ron, glad u still got it.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 31, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
Credit: kennyt
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 31, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
Laine.
Scouted that area with the one bolt back in 08-9 and I Havnt found any info on it either. There is I direct line through the roof as you probably saw that would be hard as sh#t
Been trying to get chim chim up there to scope it with me for a few years. Hint hint chim!!!!
There are several possible routes up there but would more that likely need to be sport. Not a lot of crack there
Ron and all...... Great history

Chim let's get out.....things are starting to settle in on the home front now.
Shawn
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 31, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
Kenny:

I did take a bit of a beating on Walking Jack

How bad was it?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 31, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
bad enough, Hung a few times in the crux section perhaps next try I will tape up.
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 31, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
Tape is cheating! You can borrow my mittens.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 31, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
I will be trying again tomorrow. no time fer mittens
Credit: kennyt
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 31, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
How come you get to climb all the time?

Now I am multitasking, both bored and jealous. Damn!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 31, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
In between projects right now, quit hurting yourself.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 31, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
Mark gave me the tour, that stuff looks good. I'm not in to good enough shape to get on those right now.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 31, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
i second Tads call-- MO PICS...And not my crusty ol grainy-ass 110 but shots lol!
Ron, those old pics are classics. I'm gonna go find a 110!
Credit: kennyt
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 31, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
State of the art for that time.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 31, 2013 - 01:49pm PT
Can you even buy a roll of film anymore?
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Jan 31, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
Unfortunately Film is a thing of the past,
Kodak and others no longer make film, gone the way of records,8-track and cassette tapes. Ah the good ole days!
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 1, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
Shawn - I would have to agree. There are a few nice single pitchers we saw. Here are my notes from when we went up there.

Route potential exists, but given a bolt was found on an obscure line,...
Route potential exists, but given a bolt was found on an obscure line, the likelihood of prior ascents of the prominent cracks is high.
Credit: Laine

That trip we TR'd a steep sport climb at the top of that gulley, once it's cleaned up, prolly goes at a hard 11. A crimp chimp would love it. But with all the cracks around I don't see a pressing need to bolt it (doubt it would see many ascents). That might change if the wall gets more routes on it.

A stiff TR climb at the top of the gulley.  Needs some TLC
A stiff TR climb at the top of the gulley. Needs some TLC
Credit: Laine

A few of my friends said they went back there a week later and climbed the wall to the top thru a scary roof section, though I don't know exactly where. (Gil if you are out there, feel free to chime in)

I'd like to head back up there this Saturday but I really wanna tick off Jamin for Jehovah and Up the Nuthin.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 1, 2013 - 09:05pm PT
Laine
That circled area is it. Crack right through the middle that looked great, but hard. Glad to see you guys are up there getting on those routes. I didnt quit understand the bolt there as I thought there was a crack that could have been used. Maybe flared out? Each one of those "gulleys" up there have a lot of potential for new routes. Im hoping to start getting back up there with everyone soon. Have bolts and anchors and will travel......
Shawn
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 1, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
Sunday for me.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Feb 1, 2013 - 09:40pm PT
It's time for a corn harvest.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 1, 2013 - 09:53pm PT
Credit: kennyt
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2013 - 10:39pm PT
wml, you should seriously think about giving CV Sentinel a try down this way, too. I predict you would not be disappointed! :)

Have fun. Tomorrow is supposed to be another glorious day here. Wish I could go two days in a row, dang!
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Feb 3, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
I saw a couple of cars parked by Fortress today (Footloose?). Haven't seen Kenny's truck, though.

Monkeys are sending!

I am in the lodge again waiting for my wife and drinking bad beer ;)
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 3, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
How was it up there today? seemed like it could have been cold
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 3, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
Hope it's nice tomorrow.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 4, 2013 - 11:34am PT
Ron, First crux is immed. around the corner from sunwall, right? I thought left of red pillar. I'm headin up today. Weston, if you haven't done whisker biscuit you should. and the easy routes in the cat scratch area are a lot of fun as well.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
Red Pillar anchors are way messed up. Had the same experience when we topped out. Spicy for sure.

Chim Chim. Are you heading up tomorrow? I need to get the Hell out of work. Shoulder is still f'd up but its workable.....
Shawn


WML

The area is actually very well documented by Chim Chim. Just not available at your local book store.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:04pm PT
The rope drag sucked under the arch. Rope Caught under a cam there and was stuck, had to downclimb to unstick it.
OULD is classic. Top out and there are several more climbs on the next tier that are spectacular. Cant remember the names but there is a 10a corner crack that chim lead barefoot with me several years ago.
Its all good up there.

Shawn
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
OULD I believe is 10c. Crux is a balanced move that throws you to the right when you need to stay balanced left to place gear. So much up there and so little time. When you heading up?
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
Well keep me in mind. If Im off Im willing to hike up and give you a last tour. Im out as far as leading right now, seconding only now, but I can show you and your group some stuff.
Shawn
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
What's up with the cliff directly above Bandit crag? sounds like someones been doin some stuff there. we were heading up today but my partner got hung up.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
Kenny

Heard about some stuff going on up there but have no details. Dan and I put up a Trad route there in 2008 with walk off then went and put up April Fools wall in the next gully. I remember there was a lot of potential for some sport routes up from Bandit. Ill have to check it out and take some pics

Shawn

Ron
That would be a hell of a lot of wandering to get seven pitches. You guys had brass ones
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
I'm gonna take a walk up there today and take some pics.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
Thanks Kenny
Look forward to your "trip report"
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
Adventure climbing at its finest.....
If I would have started climbing in my Early 20's I probably would be dead by now. Luckily I started at 30 and understood consequences of injury. ie mortgage not getting paid. Damn I miss my 20's......
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
I can only imagine the smell from all the trundled boulders there when you did that "route"
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
Kenny, if ya come across a few buckets with some gear in them on your walkabout (though I doubt you'd find em), those be mine.

Take good notes, there are a lot of "gems" up there
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
Pure gold Ron!

I enjoy your stories more than K2 reports. They make me feel young and careless again :)))

kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
Laine, is this one yers? I saw two bolts and anchors up a vertical dike
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 4, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
that is definately some quality granite up there, I would love to climb that thing but it looks like somebodys project. anyone got info?
Credit: kennyt
1st bolt
1st bolt
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 4, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
Kenny - yea that's what we call Tumbledown House (2p 11a-ish). Named for the amount of death blocks we had to trundle in order to make the route climbable as well as an AZ band (friends of one of the FAists). The route follows that dike all the way to the top and is very uncharacteristic of the fords (smooth, in-cut crimps).

To the left of that route is Roof Bravado and 2 others cracks that all converge at an exciting roof. Yard over the roof to a 2 bolt anchor (hand drilled to keep it oldskool), run some laps or continue up and right on the 2nd pitch (5.8) to the vertical dike of Tumblehouse and follow it to the top. Give em a go and gimme some feedback, I'd love to hear what you think - unless you hate them ;)

We've been calling this place Crystal Wall because there is a bunch a quartz laying around (moreso than in other gullies nearby); however if an name has already been chosen I will be happy to edit the info I've posted. If you continue east past that gully, the next wall you'll find is Deadwood Wall. This is a single-pitch wall with several 5.8's and 5.9's that are a classic and any I've done in the fords. Chimneys, corners, hand cracks, and OWs all within feet of each other.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Feb 4, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
Ron, that topo drawn on paper looks more like a map out of a corn maze than a route. LOL

Thanks for the recent pics guys,
but can we get some action shots please?
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 4, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
just click the links and you'll find all the info. But here ya go anyway...

Credit: Laine
Credit: Laine

kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 4, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
Laine, is Tumbledown house a mixed route I only saw two bolts?
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 4, 2013 - 04:49pm PT
Kenny, yea you can place thin pro between bolts. There is one more bolt higher up (3 total). Clip it and make a friction move to the prominent jug that sticks out in the skyline of your last pic. Yard the jug, wipe your brow, and climb to the anchors.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 4, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
cool, thanks for the info.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 4, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
Dan - sure I'd be happy to provide the info in whatever format you want, I just need to know how you'd like it presented. I've not done hand drawn stuff, but I understand from a printing cost perspective if you'd prefer black and white over color. Conversely, if you want photo topos, I can provide raw files so you and your designer can decide how best to display them. We should chat about it in person sometime soon. Maybe I can take a day off before this weather moves in and meet you guys up at the fords.
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Feb 4, 2013 - 05:24pm PT
Chim-Chim, what would really be cool if you could incorporate first-hand stories from the early explorers of the region. I mean, not only the history of first ascends, but also some "just stories" that would make make the reader emotionally engaged. Add some color to it. All the guides I read are pretty dry. There is some background history included, for sure, but they often lack the fire. But maybe I am a sucker for a good story ;)
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Feb 4, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
^^^
+1
I bet Ron has some doozies!!!
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Feb 4, 2013 - 05:33pm PT
MooseDrool you're clairvoyent

Hey, no name calling ;)
pvalchev

Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
Feb 4, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
A few shots from yesterday, perfect weather, at least 3 parties! Still only scratched the surface...

Sun Wall middle:
Sun Wall, middle
Sun Wall, middle
Credit: pvalchev

O.U.L.D.
O.U.L.D. @ Woodfords
O.U.L.D. @ Woodfords
Credit: pvalchev

Sun Wall left (my favorite route at Woodfords so far):
Sun Wall left &#40;5.10c&#41; @ Woodfords
Sun Wall left (5.10c) @ Woodfords
Credit: pvalchev
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 4, 2013 - 06:05pm PT
Nice.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
Laine
Nice looking routes. Glad someone put those up. Eyed those back in 07-08 but didn't make it happen.
Chim
Do you want to hit those and do a hand drawing tomorrow?
Shawn
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Feb 4, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
Action shots!!!
Now we're talkin.
Thanks PVal.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 09:41pm PT
Laine or Kenny

Is the approach to Crystal Wall up Bandit buttress east gulley?
Shawn
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 4, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
Same as bandit
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 4, 2013 - 10:48pm PT
Taken from the large dirt parking lot. Hope this help
Bandit Crag, Crystal Wall and Deadwood as seen from the parking lot
Bandit Crag, Crystal Wall and Deadwood as seen from the parking lot
Credit: Laine

I PM'd ya Dan with my contact info. Just let me know what ya need.
Cheers,
L
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 11:29pm PT
Thanks Laine and Kenny

Heading up in the AM if anyone wants to join

Shawn
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 8, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
Yeah, busy day up there. were getting a dusting today should melt off quickly
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 8, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
Dan, we did Whisker biscuit,couple tr laps on walking jack an easier route to the right up the corner and I be jammin. we were gonna come over and check guy's out but deceided to head out early, seems like you were right behind us.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 8, 2013 - 04:10pm PT
Ron, After that approach your core temp is pretty high for at least 6 hrs. Not to mention were really abunch of Badasses
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 8, 2013 - 09:55pm PT
Anyone climbig tomorrow??
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 9, 2013 - 11:34am PT
Dan, 5 day forecast looks good.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 9, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
Was an Awsome day up there. Great to see everyone again. Chims guide is looking Awsome
Shawn
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 9, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
Hey Shawn, I think were gonna make it up there tomorrow.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 9, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
Zero snow.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 9, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
Are you heading up?
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 9, 2013 - 08:48pm PT
WML,

There's several ways to get to "Serenity Now" (.10d), but I'll give you the directions I'm most familiar with.
First, you have to make your way to the "Way the Hell Up There" (.11c) area. The climb starts to the right, and slightly lower down from the base of that route.
To get there traverse right from the bottom of High Caliber Corridor to a short 3rd/ easy 4th class section. This scramble is marked by a singular pine tree. After the initial scramble keep traversing east and slightly up, angling towards "Way the Hell Up There". The first pitch (of two) climbs on the right side of that formation.
Pitch one is characterized by broken and discontinuous climbing; kinda alpine-like. The end of the pitch goes up a couple short corners and deposits you on a ledge on the climber's left. It's only an access pitch leading you to the goods, which are on the second pitch.
Pitch two leaves the ledge on it's right side and climbs a finger crack to a crack switch about 20' up. Follow the crack as it arcs leftwards to a two bolt anchor. Awesome.
To descend rap Serenity Now's anchor to the ledge. Scramble 40' south to the top of "Way the Hell Up There" which is behind you when you're at the base of Serenity Now's second pitch. Rap off two bolts to the ground.
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 11, 2013 - 11:16am PT
Hey Chim! Sounds like great temps the next few days. You plan on doing more cookin' tomorrow?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 11, 2013 - 11:52am PT
Dan, mark and I are heading up today.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 11, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
Two of us got out to woodfords yesterday. Slightly over cast, cold and windy as hell on the wall. We tried a line Id scoped earlier, but since neither of us could feel our fingers, committing to a akward layback in a steep corner on tiny gear as the wind chilled us to the bone wasnt in the cards. Maybe next time.
moving into the corner
moving into the corner
Credit: Laine
THIN gear in an akward corner.
THIN gear in an akward corner.
Credit: Laine
As soon as we bailed the wind died down. Feeling a new sense of inspiration (and warmth) we decided to give a nearby oldskool crack a go. But as luck would have it as soon as Jason racked up, the wind kicked up and the light began to fall behind the wall. Regardless of this piercing wind and fading light he got after it.

Joe Herbst would love this route! Wide hands to offwidth to chimney, gardening as you go. A slick, slabby corner with a few finger jams (once excavated) guards a nice ledge just below broken slabs at exactly 30m. Full value the whole way (though it doesn't seem it from the ground). I followed and literally cleaning as I climb. We setup an anchor and got outta Dodge. I kid you not, as soon as I touched back down to terra firma, the wind stopped yet again. Just another day a fords!
starting on the slab
starting on the slab
Credit: Laine
the crux of the matter
the crux of the matter
Credit: Laine
chimney section &#40;quite slick&#41;, pro in the back
chimney section (quite slick), pro in the back
Credit: Laine
Jason stopping to do a bit of gardening to unlock the finish
Jason stopping to do a bit of gardening to unlock the finish
Credit: Laine
looking down the route
looking down the route
Credit: Laine
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Feb 11, 2013 - 03:16pm PT
Cool, er should I say COLD!
Love the pics, thanks for posting up!!!
Tad
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 11, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
Nice photos Laine, we were up today beutiful blue skys but cold.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
Might I suggest giving this a go...

Credit: Footloose


It's steeper than it looks in the photo. Bring your OW skills. :)
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 12, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
Footloose, is that the main aclove?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
wml, yes 5.9 according to the lit.
laine, it seems to me above it but its categorized this way in this list...

main alcove: toprope wall

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=881711&msg=883188#msg883188

Wear pants!
Hit it first thing in the east sun.
If you do it, would like to read the report!

An onsight lead would be impressive! :)



EDIT

Anyone have a picture of Carabiner Crack?
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 13, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
Footloose and WML,

The Toprope Wall isn't really in the Main Alcove. It's quite a ways east and uphill. In terms of a climbing day it would make sense to combine this area with say the Red Pillar or, better, Serenity Now and it's neighboring climbs.

As far as the climb you highlighted, Footloose, it's not really an OW. It climbs more as a hand/fist crack and has some nice knobs for feet so it never gets terribly desperate or hard. A solid 5.9 seems appropriate. I usually bring two #3 camalots, one #3.5 and one #4 as my biggest piece. Also, hand size gear (and maybe slightly smaller?) is useful.

If you're up there and want to bump it up a letter or two you should climb Mission to Mars (.10-). It's located to the climber's left when starting up the first pitch of Serenity Now. It climbs on the same formation as Way the Hell Up There, about 200' to the climber's right of that line.

For Mission to Mars you'll want a #5 (new style) along with the gear I listed above. Look for a large right leaning ramp in a void (it makes sense when you see it) with a steep wall behind it. There's a large orange roof above the start. Stem up between the ramp and the steep wall (5.7 or 5.8,R) until you reach a horizontal 2" crack. Then turn the roof to the left and charge up the obvious corner to a 2-bolt anchor.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 13, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
Just a question, why the anonymity?
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 13, 2013 - 01:16pm PT
Hey Kenny!

I'm not trying to be secretive, just haven't signed my name, haha. Glad to hear you're getting out. How are those new Totem's? I'm thinking of getting some.

Cheers,

Ryan
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 13, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
I had a feeling that was you but didn't want to say it in case yer hiding from a female stalker haha. It's fun stuff up there, are you heading out any time soon? Oh the Totems seem really cool You can try mine one day.
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 13, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
I'm out in Durango right now, and then I'll probably be sent off to a job somewhere (hopefully). I'll hit you up when I get back in town and we'll go climbing. You should drag Meliska out, too.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 13, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
Sounds good Ryan. Take care
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
so it never gets terribly desperate or hard...

So you say. :)

Welcome to the thread, hardman!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 14, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
Dan, I have a quick work thing in the a.m. should be done by 9:30 when you headin up?
GILL

climber
Minden, NV
Feb 15, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
Yo Laine, <br/>
 <br/>
Coston & I climbed the crack that starts in the middle ...
Yo Laine,

Coston & I climbed the crack that starts in the middle of the cliff, the Word BOLT intersects it in your pic. The crack is strait up to a roof. We traversed under the roof and followed the crack to the right. The crack tops out where you drew
Credit: GILL
GILL

climber
Minden, NV
Feb 15, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
Cut me off

We climbed the diagonal crack to the ledge, where you drew in the two routes on the far right of your pic. The ledge spans the cliff. You could pitch a tent in the sand on it it's so big. You can walk right to a 10' pine and rap back to the ground. The rock on the first pitch was good. A little kitty littler to clean. The big obstacle was the bushes. They need some heavy gardening. We stretched a 70m rope out doing that pitch. I had to climb up a bit while belaying to get Coston to the ledge. The second pitch is a scramble to the summit. Cool views. The rock is rotten above the ledge. We didn't even bring any gear to the top. Can't remember what we called it. That of course that is presuming someone didn't climb it before us. I'm sure some one has. It seemed like the easiest line on the cliff. Glad people are talking about it and sharing info.
GILL

climber
Minden, NV
Feb 15, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
I talked to Coston. We climber that route last year in January. We called it Low Hanging Fruit. 5.9. Crux was coming out of the roof following the diagonal crack. We where calling the area Wild West Wall. I'm just healing after a shoulder injury and Coston has a new born but we are thinking about getting up there and cleaning the thing up. But like I said before if someone climbed it before us disregard the names. We'll still clean it.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 15, 2013 - 03:57pm PT
Thanks for sharing, Gill. I was up at that wall not long ago and know exactly the crack you are talk about. I had a feeling that was the line you guys did. I would love to repeat it if just to get over to that great-looking right-facing corner that I circled in the photo. That thing looks real nice.

I'd like to get up to the fords this Saturday and/or Monday but am in need of a partner. If you guys (or anyone else lurking this thread) wants to meet up this weekend we could do some "adventure" climbing up there. Let me know!

L
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 15, 2013 - 07:12pm PT
Dan, I got held up today till noon so couldn't make it. How was it up there?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2013 - 11:01am PT
Dan, you heading up today? Got my new shoes!

Has anyone bothered to check out One of These Days lately? I might want to jump on it to see if my latest strength training program has been successful. :)

Woodfords, hell yeah!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 16, 2013 - 11:40am PT
Next time Dan
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 16, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
Bill, I think it's time for a new look!!
Credit: kennyt
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Feb 16, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
I saw a couple of cars by the Fortress today. Monkeys are sending!

Posted from Kirkwood and drinking Stout Lagunitas. GOOD beer!
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Feb 16, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
So, who was up the Fortress today?
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
Feb 16, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
Was up there today, climbed inside out then went to the books and did some laps. A little breezy with high clouds, but not too bad.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 17, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
Anyone heading to the Fortress tomorrow?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
Kevin Bacon at Woodfords - imagine that! :)
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 20, 2013 - 11:44am PT
1/2 inch maybe.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 20, 2013 - 11:52am PT
Possibly, maybe.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 20, 2013 - 11:59am PT
I'm hoping for sunday.
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Feb 21, 2013 - 11:00am PT
chim- friday may be off just bcuz of snow. bout 2 inches out here overnight, didnt expect that!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 11:03am PT
There's only a dusting in the valley this morning, not even a quarter inch. It's curious as presently there are only blue skies everywhere! Dusting of snow will be gone within the hour. I'll be climbing this afternoon, woohoo! :)
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Feb 23, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
Sorry Ron, I had to fix something.

Also, check the Carson Valley thread.

the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Feb 24, 2013 - 12:13am PT
a buddy and myself would go to the west wall route and do laps cuz it is such a fun route, we did however dub it "focus fest" bcuz of the friction friction friction! mostly because we didnt know any name for it. still a fun climb, we've been goin a bit over the roofy part at the tree(bush) for a directish finish to the anchor, that part is still cleaning up and a bit harder than the bottom. have fun! p.s. would love to rip them bolts out and put new guys in, i aint falling on those things! i see its an unknown f a, mostly to try n lead it and asking outta respect. dave.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Feb 25, 2013 - 11:44am PT
Hey Dan, I've heard from 5.10a to 5.10d on OULD, so the opinions flow fast and free at the Fords! Half the fun of climbing there is comparing how hard people think the routes are. There's many a climb there I hear about up to 3 letter grades of discrepancy between different climbers. I wonder if your guide will firm up some of the consensus.

I think 5.10c is fair for OULD, that's around my usual onsight level and it felt right about there when I did so. If you're dialed for techie granite stuff it will feel easier, I think that's why I've heard down to 5.10a on it.

Maybe there should be the three grade system at Woodfords: 1. Can get it clean, 2. Can get up it somehow, 3. Can't get up it at all. It would simplify my conversations with friends about the Fords!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 11:57am PT
I think 5.10c is fair... that's around my usual onsight level...

Woohoo! I think I just might've found my ropegun for Conness Southwest Face this season. ;)
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Feb 25, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
Well, "usual" when I'm not recovering from an injury, Footloose. I'm afraid my dance card is filled on that particular climb so far though. If I do it twice in one season though or my partner bails, I will let you know!

I think I need to recover to leading first though, or I won't be rope gunning anything soon.

edit: Oh yeah, I'm digging the trail running thing, I know that is your gig too. I'm finally finding the "gears" when I run so that I can keep the legs going on the uphills. It's a blast! I don't know why people pound the cement when you have beautiful trails out there. I just got back from one this morning ;).
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Feb 25, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
yeah im in chim. been lazy too long.!
that one kid on that one .9.
that one kid on that one .9.
Credit: the czar
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 25, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
Nice shot, Czar! Are you the kid in the pic?
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Feb 25, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
no sir.
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Feb 26, 2013 - 01:38am PT
na, thats Roan.
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 26, 2013 - 08:46am PT
Cool, thanks Dan. That photo makes me miss the Woodfords.

I'm ha