Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 1165 of total 1165 in this topic |
Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 1, 2010 - 01:22pm PT
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Warmer longer days are right around
the corner. Looking forward to workout
sessions in Woodfords to get fit for
High Sierra climbs this Spring and Summer.
Flexible times, weekdays and weekends. Anytime
weather is sunny.
Laps on One of These Days (5.10c) is a real workout.
Here's another I hope to play on soon:
It's on sunny winterside but in the shade.
Lot's of off-width work. Rumor says it goes
5.11.
Anyone interested? PM me and let's go!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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That looks cool.
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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wow, my KNEES are sweating!!
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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My knees are hurting and bruised! But maybe that's because of my first visit to Generator Crack yesterday... after a few swings into the tree on toprope, I stuck a stamp on that postcard and sent it.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Any cracks out that way?
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leonardo
climber
davis, CA
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What are the conditions right now?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
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Donini- Tons of cracks on single and
half-pitch climbs. (Hey, c'mon out
and take on Positive Vibrations with
me this summer, I'll let you lead the
crux pitches!)
Leonardo- I haven't been out there yet this
season but according to Chim-Chim, a
local, snow's pretty much melted out on winterside
and pockets of summer heat on sunny days.
Woohoo! :)
Generator Crack-
This burly offwidth is easily toproped and seldom led. The crux comes just a few feet off the ground but the climbing remains physical and sustained to the top. Some advanced offwidth climbers use the "leavittation" technique but most climbers just throw in a knee, make a chicken wing, and struggle. Wear long sleeves and pants and you may want to tape your hands and ankles. Climb this route in cooler temperatures--even if it is near freezing the strenuous moves will keep you warm. Don't be discouraged if it takes you multiple visits to this climb to finally get it. Once you do, you?ll be ready to tackle most 5.10 and easier offwidths and squeeze chimneys in Yosemite.
Right on, Nutjob!
This means you're ropegun-
capable for offwidths this summer.
Woohoo!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nice send, Nutjob!
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Madbolter
Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
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Haha, my eyes only see face climbs.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
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Still trying to line up
partners for this season's
workouts.
EDIT 5:22p Msiddens- look forward to it,
you're always on my short list!
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Bill, I'm up for workout in the season.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Footloose,
I'll do PV with you if you stay around to do the one just to the left- forgot it's name. It's a little harder than PV.
Chim Chim, I'm coming. Is Summer too hot?
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Ricardo Cabeza
climber
All Over.
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Is there anything up-canyon, near hope valley outdoors (is it still called that that, I used to work there) and the campground?
Seems like just cross canyon (at the bend in the canyon to the right when you're going downhill) there is some potential and just behind hope valley outdoors on the hillside is a spectacular roof crack.
Joyce, my old boss used to tell me stories about her days chilling with climbers in the valley in the '70's and even better stories about Dan-O climbing that roof crack behind the store.
Brandon-
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Chim
Ah the pics got me drooling again.
Im ready to hook up with you again for another great year up in the 'fords and finish up with "information catolog"!!!!
Hope you guys are doing great!!!!!
Shawn
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 08:27pm PT
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Donini- Nice to hear! What did you have in mind,
CTC (twice) or camping? PM me with the details you
have in mind. Might have to "grab and go" in places on
Sunspot (quite more sustained than PV) but yeah!
Up close and personal on Sunspot would be sweet. If
aided, I'd just have to come back and get it free later.
Right? ;)
Chim- If the weather's good this week, count me in. Nice
to have you back.
Chim wrote-
I wish human cloning was legal then I could get something done.
Ha!
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skychild
Trad climber
Birmingham, Alabama
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I finally got up there to climb. I got a tour from a local who seemed to have alot of information about climbs 5.12b that aren't found in the Woodfords pdf file. The rock is a bit coarse in spots but the jam cracks are some of the best i've seen in the Tahoe area. Not to be missed if you like pure crack climbing. Potential is nearlly unlimited but you mighht be dissapointed that the f.a. that you just did has evidence of a prior ascent. Thousands of fine climbs if you like adventure. I sure would have liked to have busy in recent years as the number of new climbs has increased dramatically... but there's still lots to do. Don
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Glad you liked the area skychild...
A lot of work has gone into the area by Chim-Chim and many other locals over the years. Potential..unlimited..
Shawn
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2010 - 10:10am PT
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Weather's supposed to be nice
this Sun-Mon. Anyone want to go?
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stella
climber
cali
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Mar 17, 2010 - 07:30pm PT
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difficult decision between here and sugarloaf.....but never been to woodfords, and it sounds pretty damn good. so headed there with a couple friends for thursday and friday. already printed off the guidebook from the obscurities page. any y'all locals got any more beta on where to go this time of year? cliffs, routes, access, whatever info would be great. also wondering what the camping situation is. is there any dispersed camping in those parts if the stuff by the river is snowed in? coming from truckee, so its just a bit too long for a day trip....seems like we'll need at least a couple days anyways to get a feel for the place. thanks, matt
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2010 - 12:41am PT
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Hey Chim!
I was just coming here, you
beat me to it.
Saw Ryan in the gym, tonite.
Let's get on Big Bad Wolf with the
good weather!
I'm ready to stand in snow even
and get down on OOTD.
EDIT Stella- no problem with
camping. Sunny Winter Side is
clear of snow. Easy camping
everywhere, that's what I'd do.
Have fun.
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stella
climber
cali
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Mar 18, 2010 - 01:15am PT
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thanks guys....got some of the stuff off mountain project, looks like plenty to entertain. hopefully we'll run into you and i can scum some more beta...we'll be the ones with two big dogs. cheers, matt
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stella
climber
cali
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Mar 20, 2010 - 12:33am PT
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dan-
thanks for all the beta. we didn't get a whole ton of climbing in today (my partners left around 1 PM) but checked out the Books area. the 5.8 was phenomenal, and cat scratch fever was cool too (except for the death flake low on the route). didn't get on any of the harder or newer stuff this time, next time i'll check it out. o.u.l.d. and mr. personality looked pretty cool, the rock is reminiscent of the new stuff in pine creek near bishop. overall, woodfords gets a BIG thumbs up! everything we got on was 4-5 star quality, and we barely scratched the surface. looking forward to a guidebook coming out, kind of hard to find your way around there on your own....a little too much rock. i'd have to say that woodfords is probably my new winter destination (sorry sugarloaf). anyways thanks for all your hard work, i'll hit you up next time i'm in the area. cheers, matt
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Mar 20, 2010 - 01:40am PT
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Really looking forward to your guide Dan ...Although it might be the demise of that little "gem" of an area....Been occassionally falling my way up classics around "Fords" since the 70's. Your devotion to the area is admirable. Best wishes and keep up the good work.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2010 - 01:23pm PT
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Visited obscure sections of Woodfords Canyon this weekend.
Anyone know anything about this corner crack above the Epoxy Wall. Chim?
Too bad some obscurities are 1,000 vertical feet
or more up the hill. I haven't tried any of these.
They look to be pretty nice.
It was a beautiful day. Here you can look down
on the highway and see cars of climbers who are up on the Fortress:
For anyone who wishes to explore the area, this photo looks
down on the highway and the backside of the famous Big Bertha.
Higher up:
FYI, One of these Days, a Woodfords Classic on the South
Side is now in the sun in the afternoon. Climbers were there
on Sunday.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2010 - 10:02am PT
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Where are you, Chim-Chim?
What's that corner crack called
above the Epoxy Wall and what's it
go at?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2010 - 02:58pm PT
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Chim, thanks. Good to know.
I actually didn't get to its base. I
got distracted by another path to another
interest.
Please take my photo if you can and mark up your
approach to this crack. This would be so
helpful.
FL
P.S. Give it a name so I can talk about
climbing it- this 5.9+. It's the one I want to
do.
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Tattooed 1
Trad climber
Sebastopol, Ca
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Hey Chim,
Is there any published topo info available yet? If so where can I get it?
Tim
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
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Spent yesterday at One Of These
Days. FYI, it is once again in the sun.
The best 5.10c in Lake Tahoe:
Took 3 laps on this baby.
(dang, have to clean the dust off the lens...)
Another view:
If I weren't so sore, alas, I'd be back there today.
Happy climbing everybody in Lake Tahoe and the High Sierras
this summer!
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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May 17, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
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Chim
Give me a shout when you get back. Have fun in the Ditch.
Foot...we all need to hook up sometime.
Shawn
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2010 - 05:11pm PT
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Chim- Wonderful news!
Good luck down there. Have fun!
Call or email when ready Shawn, when you can make
it. Any time.
It's raining here, now, today.
Which is good. My flowerbeds need it.
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 21, 2010 - 03:08am PT
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Boys and girls, cross-posting a recent TR to the Fortress area:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1174042/TR-2010-05-Woodfords-Widefest-Lite
We were suckered into the sandy direct ascent! Too lazy to keep going to the knoll :)
There really is an amazing amount of route potential up there... just cataloging it all is going to be an effort similar to the Jtree guidebook.
Footloose and msiddens, I was definitely thinking of you boys when I headed up there! Overall I'm still in the midst of my Yosemite obsession years, but I'll keep spicing it up with Woodfords as needed.
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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May 21, 2010 - 01:56pm PT
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Thanks Nutjob- same here....heading to the Valley (again) but Spring is coming to a close.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 21, 2010 - 02:41pm PT
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I'm Valley bound too. But, I'm planning to get over there soon...
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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May 22, 2010 - 12:41pm PT
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Dan
We still on for Mondays photo session?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 22, 2010 - 01:05pm PT
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Astroface is a cool send.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2010 - 03:54pm PT
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Jaybro- Why not grab Zander or Em or Nutjob, come up, it'll give us a chance to meet, and I'll show you the wide in the first picture. It's called the Big Bad Wolf and getting to it is an effectively nice calorie burner. (If that's part of your goal structure.) :)
Chim- Can't wait to hear all about it. Makes me terribly envious. I'd ask if I could join you and Shawn Monday but think the weather's going to be sketch:
http://forecast.weather.gov:80/MapClick.php?lat=38.770145674423965&lon=-119.84024047851562&site=rev&smap=1&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text
Thanks again for snagging my cap, I climb a whole number lower without it.
Siddens- Your climbing in Yosemite makes me all ancy and jealous inside when I think about it- so I try not to think about it. But good on ya!
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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May 23, 2010 - 01:54am PT
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Dan, Sasha and Friends of Woodfords
I would like to get a little group together up there for some camping and story telling as well as sharing beta on the areas. I am willing to BBQ my ass off to feed anyone and make arrangements for a little Woodfords Fest.
If anyone is interested please let me know and we can start planning some dates or two.
Thanks
Shawn Watson
Footy 20% Chance of Slight Snow 46 degrees ...Its a Woodfords Day!!!!!
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Jun 28, 2010 - 04:12pm PT
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Hope to be there Thursday .Hope I can find something to TR. solo.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2010 - 05:54pm PT
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Big guns at Woodfords yesterday:
Big strength, too:
Route beta: One Of These Days route is easier now,
a half square foot flake peeled off face- establishing
MORE purchase on lower section. Now is this
good or bad? Hmm...
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Chim and Footy
Im off the next six days and may be able to get up there with you guys on one of my days off. Let me know.
Shawn
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Footloose, did you Sic Em on that wyde crack on the original post? Been back to that thing?
Watch out for that Cilley guy....
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2010 - 10:07pm PT
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Jaybro, no I'm saving the Big Bad Wolf
for you! Grab the gang, or even one, come on up,
we'll get on it.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2010 - 10:35pm PT
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No one but us (B,S,R) at OOTD buttress, today,
it was beautiful.
But I missed my cap.
EDIT
Ron, why not come on down one of these
days, check it out. We could talk taxidermy,
used to do as a kid.
Maybe you remember a place called Jepedos
in Carson City, circa 1974, chockfull of animal
hides and specimens.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2010 - 12:21pm PT
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Missed you yesterday, Chim, I'll call you next
week to see if you get out. No worries about spreading
the word, we love ya for what you do. ;)
(Why's that farm animal on top of that little dog?)
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klimski
Trad climber
Bridgeport,CA
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Chim ,Tina and I had a great time up at the steeple. Lots of work for us right now but we'll be back in a couple weeks for a weekend of sick routes and of course no crowds, section 20ish ehh?
Klimksi
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Matty B
Sport climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Actually saw Dick a few hours later. Saw a cat with a climbing rope on his pack and got him up to Woodfords on my way to Mokelumne for some hiking. He told me about this website!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2010 - 01:08pm PT
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Chim- Don't know if you have any memory of this.
At the top of OOTD in the channel / chimney next to
the anchors were two heavyweight loose blocks. I grew sick
and tired of them there always creeping me out. For
a couple of reasons. But one was if they ever let loose their
drop zone after exiting the channel and after 115' freefall straight down
was the belay zone.
So yesterday, opportunity presented itself to trundle them so I did.
With the energy output of two dynamite explosions.
So check it out when you can. Next time I go up I'll clean the
channel of the remaining sand. I called it a nice improvement.
You're probably up there today. Have fun. My forearms will
be sore for days after yesterday. What a blast!
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jul 15, 2010 - 03:40pm PT
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Damn footy....kaboom
Did get your message on Indian head....may be interested in that down the road.
Back to work for the weekend but maybe able to get out soon
shawn
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jul 16, 2010 - 12:41am PT
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Ron
Im not sure if he its the same place of not...knew those had been chopped a couple of years ago. Would love to check out Zebra wall though. Looks very inviting
Had dealings with "tribal police" regarding Dinosaur a couple years ago.....one was very nice the other a total tool.
Shawn
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jul 16, 2010 - 12:47am PT
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There were chalk marks on Zebra wall a couple of years ago other than there are no signs of climbers on that wall for many years. Looks like lots of steep lines there. Those bolts on Wolf Creek have been gone for at least 8 years or more.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jul 16, 2010 - 11:34am PT
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Most of the stuff up 4 is just volcanic mud flows, there may be some that is solid but I am not sure. In the high country around there Henry Peak has some basalt columns I have heard rumors of them being climbed. This formation is also near the the road but when I tried it years ago everything was loose.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2010 - 12:12pm PT
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Looking for a workout partner for tomorrow,
anyone interested?
Where's Wolf Creek road? What's Indian Head?
I only know about Indian Rock, Southwest of Lake
Tahoe. If ever I go, sounds like I'll have to be
vigilant- careful because of angry Paiutes, still? :)
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2010 - 11:58am PT
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Just got the day off, anybody going up today,
I need a workout partner.
Chim, Shawn, is there anybody out there? (Pink Floyd)
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2010 - 12:29am PT
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Chim- Darn it, man, we keep missing each other.
I'm heading up tomorrow, are you? By the way, I
still haven't checked out the Woodcutter's area. Soon.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jul 21, 2010 - 12:19pm PT
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Have fun thursday....we keep working oposites. UGH !!!!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2010 - 04:19pm PT
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Shawn, still trying to find that no-hands
purchase above the roof on OOTD you pulled off awhile
back. Still alludes me...
You sure you didn't sneak a cam into a crack
way up there when we all weren't looking? ;)
EDIT Alright, Shawn I'll give it another go,
looking to knee jam something.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jul 22, 2010 - 05:23pm PT
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Foot
Right hand in the crack then right knee jammed in there...pray....repeat
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stella
climber
cali
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Jan 15, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
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How are the conditions down there? Are there any topos of the south-facing crags floating around?
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climberevan
Mountain climber
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Jan 16, 2011 - 11:12pm PT
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It's been warm and dry for a while now--65+degrees today at my place near Gardnerville. There is a lot of snow around, so seepy lines will probably be wet, but there have been climbers around and the rock looks great.
PM me--i have lots of free time and the skiing sucks right now...
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2011 - 12:15am PT
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Always love to see interest for Woodfords Canyon
at Supertopo. It's been kinda cold though lately but
it's also warming up.
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Jan 22, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
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See you tomorrow Woodfords...
Looking forward to it...
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stella
climber
cali
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Jan 23, 2011 - 10:29pm PT
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is there still a guidebook in the works?
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 24, 2011 - 12:03am PT
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Yes
Chim chim is still working on it. He is the "steward" of woodfords. Knows every climb and move on each climb. Always amazes me with his knowledge of the area. Sasha too. ;)
Shawn
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stella
climber
cali
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Jan 25, 2011 - 12:24am PT
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Anybody headed out there this week? We'll be climbing Tuesday and Wednesday.
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stella
climber
cali
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Jan 27, 2011 - 11:06am PT
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huh?
actually, it was pretty empty...beautiful conditions though.
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Apr 12, 2011 - 05:55pm PT
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I tried figuring out where the Woodfords were this year a few times on my way to Kirkwood from S Lake Tahoe. 89 to 88 right??
No luck, and the snow was too high so couldn't scout. Fail.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Apr 12, 2011 - 06:16pm PT
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From Kirkwood dont turn to go to south lake. Head straight down the hill toward Gardnerville. You may see some rock on the way..
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2011 - 02:25pm PT
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That looks like the top of the Steeple?
Still haven't been there. Maybe this season I'll check
it out. Tell Chim we miss him here at supertopo with
the Woodfords Weekly News.
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Apr 19, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
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The Perfect Lieback is showcased in r&i this month as a 5.8 must do in the tahoe area...
no fa info though, ron, you should write the editor
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Apr 19, 2011 - 02:17pm PT
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Sweet for the lieback
Shawn
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Apr 19, 2011 - 02:53pm PT
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what....R&I? Great, there goes the neighborhood:-)
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
Oakland
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Apr 19, 2011 - 02:54pm PT
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I'm in the process of relocating to south lake and am really anxious to check out woodfords. I drove through there a few weeks ago, man there looks like a lot of climable rock there. Hoping someone can show me this incredible lieback.
bryce
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GvilleClimbingClub
climber
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Apr 19, 2011 - 03:04pm PT
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Perfect Layback was FA by Bill Griffen and Siggi Vogal. Don't know the date. It really is a perfect climb.
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adikted
Trad climber
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Apr 19, 2011 - 06:01pm PT
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I went to Woodfords for my first time last Sunday with my girlfriend. parked at the fortress and realized i forgot the Rope...DOH.....so we just hiked around the crag....Awesome area...plan on heading back this sunday to climb the perfect lieback........good times...
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adikted
Trad climber
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Apr 19, 2011 - 06:33pm PT
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I'll do those as well...would u recomend doubles in 2 and 3 camalot for the handcrack?...i was wondering that looking up at it the other day....psyched on Tahoe Handcracks.
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Apr 19, 2011 - 08:12pm PT
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In light of the recent R&I, I would like to point out to the world that WOODFORDS IS A FUKING PILE OF CHOSS! Don't waste your time. The Pie Shop and Snowshed are way, way better... go there instead.
does reverse psychology really work?
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Apr 19, 2011 - 08:31pm PT
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
:)
Listen to wes, that place is a death trap...
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Apr 19, 2011 - 08:47pm PT
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I climbed an easy moderate way up high near the summit last weekend, a nice 5.6, super fun, lots of other potential up there...I am heading back to try a few other things I spotted...
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Apr 19, 2011 - 09:11pm PT
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Man, it's starting to sound like you could get one hell of a solo circuit figured out up there at Woodfords with all the moderate climbing there is. Sometimes it's just nice to get alot of vertical mileage in with just a chalk bag and shoes. With all the short, quality lines, sounds like it'd be alot of fun in addition to roping it up on some of the harder lines.
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adikted
Trad climber
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Apr 19, 2011 - 09:20pm PT
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Thanks for the Beta Ron.....im psyced to rope up on Sunday at the Woodfords chosspile.... ;)
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2011 - 09:26pm PT
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From last weekend:
Weather was warm, sunny, bright:
Always struck by the contrast between opposing faces of the Canyon:
P.S
I had wanted to ski that chute to the right, just didn't get to it fast enough in these spring conditions.
Now this week's weather is unsettled. Bummer.
Could somebody post a link or something (a cut n paste) to the Rock n Ice piece?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 02:40pm PT
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I'm pretty sure Bill Griffin told me he was TPL's FA.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Apr 20, 2011 - 02:46pm PT
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How long will those chutes be in condition?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 03:06pm PT
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How long will those chutes be in condition?
I guess it depends on your standards. For me,
it was a couple of days ago. If you snooze, you lose. :(
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Apr 20, 2011 - 03:43pm PT
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Hope to see you Saturday Woodfords...
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Apr 20, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
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Foot
That photo is the top of the Steeple.
Nice to see all the interest in Woodfords again. Still looking to do a pig roast in June, Maybe the weekend of the 4th. Will keep everyone posted.
Shawn
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Apr 20, 2011 - 05:13pm PT
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Footloose- those picts look cool. What area is that??
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adikted
Trad climber
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Apr 20, 2011 - 07:48pm PT
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Damn...weather looks skeptical...im gonna try and climb woodfords sunday anyways....it will be a fun drive none the less.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
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Oh Jebus is a diehard for Woodfords, he's probably hiking
the approach as I post this. In the rain and all. Happy climbing!
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Apr 23, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
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Im more a wuss- posting this from the gym
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adikted
Trad climber
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Apr 23, 2011 - 07:17pm PT
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Damn.....I reckon tomorrow is gonnabe crappy too...oh well....gym day :(
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Apr 24, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
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I think I out wussed you by flaking on the gym. I hung out with the lady and got fatter. It was fun!
ditto
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
Oakland
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Apr 24, 2011 - 12:59pm PT
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Rain, sun, now snow. Interesting morning weather wise in South Tahoe.
Gonna go skin up something, been hearing reports of good, creamy snow in some places.
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Apr 24, 2011 - 06:19pm PT
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Road the trails in Santa Cruz. Got my a** handed to me AND way muddy. Oh well
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Kirkwood, CA
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Apr 24, 2011 - 07:07pm PT
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If I cant get a partner for the Gorge Tuesday Wednesday, I will be at Woodfords both days.
PM me if you need a partner, I definitely do.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 01:27pm PT
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Hey, I've been eager to see photos of the fortress area
from the highway for the longest time now. From before the Fire.
Bill G was supposed to send me some I think at one point
but I never got to see any.
Anyone have any to share?
All that logging might explain why the area's
quite clear of detritus.
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Apr 25, 2011 - 03:08pm PT
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Footloose, never!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
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You mean on the face around the corner where the old rope hung
for a couple of years? I always figured that was some of your
doing - as it looked to be hanging over 5.12ish terrain. ;)
I might go up Wed to explore some.
Have fun tomorrow.
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NML81
Trad climber
N Lake Tahoe
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My car was one of them. Fun day. The perfect lie-back is pretty perfect. I was wondering about rattlesnakes, thanks for the update. We found the descent trail and commented how we would hate to go up it.
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Aerili
climber
Reno, NV
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Hi NM, I think maybe you came over to the Books at the start of the day and chatted with my partner and I? I gave you some beta. If so, nice to meet you guys and hopefully we'll see ya out there again.
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NML81
Trad climber
N Lake Tahoe
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Aerili, That was me, nice to meet you and hope to run into again at the crags.
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GoMZ
Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
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Climbed out at Woodfords today, really nice day and we were the only ones out there. Climbed OULD and the first few pitches of hand of God among others.
Question, can someone tell me what the first pitch of hand of god is rated (the variation with the bolts on the face), it felt 11ish but I suck at ratings, also what is the stellar looking last pitch go at.
Thanks,
Steve
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Sweet man, sounds like fun!!!!!!
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GoMZ
Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
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Thanks Seth, how was your trip?
Lets get out soon.
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Trip was rad!!!
Ksolem is a good guy...
June 8th is the last day of school... can't wait...
weekends are usually free...
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dave goodwin
climber
carson city, nv
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Wes-
that face to the left of OOTD is .12a that a friend of mine named Paul bolted. It used to be a bit grainy but has cleaned up in the last few years.
The rope around the corner that some people were commenting on earlier was probably from my friend Walt who sometime leaves one there to tr solo OOTD.
He sticks it around the corner to be out of sight. I don't think Paul ever left a rope ther but I could be wrong.
take care
dave
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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NICE- traxion line just like the big boys at Arch. Great place, great routes.
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mariaji
Social climber
Tucson, AZ
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Hello climbers, I'm looking for a partner in the Lake Tahoe vicinity to climb for the day on Saturday, May 14th. Anyone available? I'm happy swapping leads (5.10 sporto, 5.9 trad, multi-good) but won't have gear other than personal wares.
cheerio,
Maria
520-834-4548
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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The 11b right of OOTD sounds like King Diamond....FA Crawford,Banny Root& Me.
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GoMZ
Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
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Hey Dan, First off thank you for all the hard work you have put in at Woodfords. I know it can be a thankless task. Let me assure you that I did not take a sh#t up there. I have been climbing for nearly 20 years and always practice and teach a low impact approach. The day I was up there there was evidence of others having been up there recently. I don't appreciate being blamed for someone elses sh#t just because I posted on an internet forum looking for information. I am not looking to get into an internet pissing (shitting match) I don't have time for that. Was just looking for some beta NBD, I guess I'll just go climb the thing. Again thank you for all of your effort at Woodfords, I look forward to meeting you out there.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2011 - 06:07pm PT
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Yeah, his name's North. ;)
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Let me assure you that I did not take a sh#t up there. I have been climbing for nearly 20 years and always practice and teach a low impact approach. --Gomz
Gomz would not pull any, well, sh#t like that... he is a stand up guy... I'd hate for people to think otherwise...
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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The poop is all Rock and Ice's fault...
We'll be overrun by gym climbers and the poop will flow...
edit: sorry I missed the plastic pulling yesterday Jebus, and my buddy is not coming this weekend. What will you two get into?
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Time to spin the signs, Czech style...
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2011 - 09:30pm PT
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The third pitch may rival OOTD in quality.
I don't know, hard to believe. Anyways, happy climbing!
P.S. Thanks for the ping.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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May 12, 2011 - 10:44am PT
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Chim. I'm back in town. Give me a shout.
Shawn
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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May 15, 2011 - 10:00pm PT
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The most stunning thing about woodfords is the amount of great rock 15min away.
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Reggaemylitis
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Finally made it to check out this "hidden gem"! No wonder we didn't see anyone out there both days we were there! Total choss pile in a desert-like wasteland! Had to bushwack through manzanita the whole time, and carry a big stick to fight off all the rattlers! I would not recommend going here...EVER! I have pics to prove it!
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Nice. Someone want to climb with me there Sunday? I'll bring the anti-venom...
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Reggaemylitis
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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HA! I guess you missed the spirit of my post for sure! The place was awesome, and I was trying to get an ignored area some attention. Thanks for the warm welcome! Back to Pipeworks I go!
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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I difficult to even justify replying to an obvious troll, but we did watch you dog the roof o ootd for about an hour... maybe you should stay at the leap, espescially if you can't even follow an obvioius trail. Adveture climbing isn't for pussies. I heard Pipeworks is fun.
Yeah, I think their was some heavy sarcasm in that TR... Bad day Chim?
edit: I'd probably dog the roof too, should I go back to Rocksport?
edit:edit: can't wait to sample the south side.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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The beta for that roof is to pull up and over on .10a jams.
Had a real nice time at Woodfords a couple weeks ago, everything we did was quality... except for that NV/UT border, that thing is a lame chossy sandbag.
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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To Chim, m-e-l-l-o-w....You care deeply and that is good!
I agree, I know how much time you have dedicated to this place and thank you!!!!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Hi Ron,
I did the Hillside Strangler, that thing is absolutely top quality, loved it. Looked at some of those other things you mentioned, as well as some other things not in the old topo that have clearly been climbed, but day was winding down and they were in direct hot sun. Next time!
I did not love UT/NV, despite the ha ha rating. For a 50 foot climb, it has like 8 feet of good climbing, and 40 feet of downright lousy climbing. Rotten flake, shrub, 3rd class ramp strewn with loose rocks.
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Reggaemylitis
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Well, I'm glad my shitty post kept the Woodfords thread on the front page most of the day! I wasn't trying to be a dick Chim-Chim, I'm just good at it! Thanks for all the work you've done out at this great area. Say hi next time you see my dogging! ;)
That was a good one by Dan-O! Got us for sure! LOL!
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Anyone want to climb tomorrow?
I got back to Eagle Lake cliff tonight and am amped to get out tomorrow.
Could do Woodofrds or any other crag around south lake.
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Bummer, won't be back till Sunday... Woodfords, it's been too long...
Last time I was there I followed Quoia the Destroyer in the rain... talk about fun... nice lead Jebus!!!
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Aug 12, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
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Looking for a Tahoe area partner for tomorrow, Saturday. Doesn't have to be Woodfords, can do any area around Tahoe. Would be down for something adventurous, like Sector 20. Also interested in stuff on Flagpole if anyone wants to show me around. PM or reply here.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Sep 30, 2011 - 05:14pm PT
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Could use a partner tomorrow in the Tahoe area.
Anyone interested??
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Sep 30, 2011 - 08:30pm PT
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We're doing Twin Crags tomorrow as a mellow hangover thing if you want to step your expectations down about 5 notches. Bring some Pibbers.
bwahahahahaha... we're also only 15 to 20 minutes form Donner...
Then Chris and I could climb Kindergarden Crack while you belay Marissa up Panic in Detroit ;)
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2011 - 11:09pm PT
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Wish I could go. Love Woodfords.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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I have not read this whole thread so I appologize for the questions, but what kind of rock is the Woodfords? I saw a picture posted by Seth K. and it kind of looked like sandstone. How big is it? Is it mostly trad(my preference if I were to travel there)? Do you need a tour or can you figure it out with a guide book? It sure looks cool though and when I someday get the time and money to travel to cali again I would love to hit up some of these places that are off the beaten path a little.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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What would a $25 contribution get me?
I hate to be stingy, but times are tight and I have another kid on the way.
Do you have a beat up copy?
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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How do I do that?
If you e-mail me through supertopo, that's my real account.
I can pay via snail mail, or online if you have a way.
I've been wanting to climb there for years. It's right along one of my commute routes.
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Sonic
Trad climber
Hilly, but no rocks Folsom, California
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Bump
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GILL
climber
Minden, NV
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Feb 11, 2012 - 01:11am PT
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Woodfords thread is awful quiet for the winter we've been having
Anyone know about the small canyons above Mama Cat and Big Bertha boulders?
I think there are about 4 small canyons. Anyone know there names?
The more eastern ones, close to Deadwood Canyon, have walls that are nice and tall!
Hiked up there a few times. Took 45-60 minutes depending how much I was wondering around looking at cool rock.
The canyon directly above the big gravel parking lot on the south side of the hwy has a real nice wall about 400' tall. It has a huge roof system in the middle of the wall about 200' up. There was a bolt and an escape biner 30' up on the left side of the wall. It was above a discontinuous finger crack. Looked scary. One hell of a drilling stance. Anyone know anything?
My climbing partner and I did a route in one of the crack systems that led us pretty far right of the huge roofs. It took us to the big ledge 200' up. This ledge spands almost the whole wall. We went left and scrambled up a gully to the summit. Great view!!! When we came down we went back to the right on the big ledge and rapped off a 10' pine tree. Noticed a few chalk marks on the rap. Someone TRing from the tree I guess? Looked like you could scramble up to the tree from the ground on the far right of the wall.
So the route we did was really dirty, has big bushes that we climbed through, and has a few loose blocks. We want to go and clean it. My big deal is I don't want to step on anyone's feet. If anyone knows anything about this area let me know on this tread or PM me. I'll try to get some good pics next time I go up there.
Thanks
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Feb 24, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
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With the horrendous backcountry snow conditions for the weekend, we are thinking of going to woodfords for some easy peasy climbing on sunday...we are out of climbing shape. Anyone going to be there this weekend. We did left and right branch last summer on our way back from the eastside, but that was about it. Hoping to hit up the northside of the road this time, but a little mystified about what area has the most easy .6-.9's. The pdf guide is pretty limited in this area, but thinking they must lurk out there. I assume the authors were just not too interested. Should we just wander around the fortress trying to pick off 4th class climbs, hoping to score something only slightly harder. Hoping to do just a bit of exploring in the sun, and avoid the soon to form water ice and wind all over the backcountry. Sugestions?
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Manimal
climber
SLT, Ca
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Feb 24, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
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There are only a couple climbs established in that grade range up there. I would suggest Luther Spires which gets great afternoon sun and which has been quite warm of late, with not much snow on the trail in. It's in the SLT Supertopo guide. However latest forecast shows cold arriving sooner than expected with temps dropping tomorrow and wind affecting the whole area. If at Woodfords, perfect lieback jumps to mind or there is another 5.8 way left of there in the books area, but it's a lot of hiking for limited climbing in those grades, not to mention the last time I was up there, just a couple weeks ago those climbs were mobbed. My 2 cents.
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Feb 24, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
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yeah, perfect layback definitely came to mind. I just figured, there is so much rock around there, there might by some crags that are lower angle with 4th class and up, depending on what you pick. Looking up the hills there is just too much rock not to hold plenty of easy climbing.
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Feb 24, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
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Cookie cliff area looks promising just because not much is invested from a time situation.
I don't mind walking or figuring or bushwacking (most likely the case), I just want to maximize my chances for a successful climbing day, complete with a solid workout. Last time we were there, we ended up spending more time trying to find stuff than climbing (hence only two climbs...actually really just one with two different finishes). Maybe we will tick off a few climbs near cracker cliff first to ensure some climbing. After a couple pitches, maybe we will just try to pick an easy rock and see if there are some easy cracks that go. Things lower down the canyon as it opens up look like they have some seriously easy faces. Granted you have to climb a 500ft tall kitty litter dune...
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Manimal
climber
SLT, Ca
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Feb 24, 2012 - 06:14pm PT
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what's up with those "other" areas Ron? do you have more detail on the cliffs between the fortress and suicide falls? I hiked all the way up the canyon passing the penile pillar (what's that insanely beautiful crack on the east side of that?!!) and crossed the canyon, to the east, continued up and right, crossing another canyon where I came accross a face that faces west with some longish cracks on it. Scoped that out and continued down where in a large alcove came across some anchors above a crazy overhanging feature.....any info appreciated!!!
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Feb 24, 2012 - 06:53pm PT
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How bad is the rock in suicide falls area? Is it worth it? 4 pitches sounds pretty nice to me. Is the R for bad rock or for easy runout face? Got a topo, all I see is a description.
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Feb 24, 2012 - 06:58pm PT
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Justin,
There's a couple of good moderates past the second alcove. I don't know if they're in the PDF, but there's a great 5.7 hand crack, a cool 5.9 finger crack and a funky 5.8 offwidth. I'd be happy to show you but i'm gonna try to get some skiing in this weekend. If it stays warm, email me and I'd be happy to cruise up to the Canyon with you.
Eric
shiva5277@hotmail.com
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Manimal
climber
SLT, Ca
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Feb 25, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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Thanks Ron. It's nice to know there is plenty of adventure and fresh stone in the back yard, even in 2012. I hiked out to Pleasant Valley a couple summers having seen a blurb somehwere's and saw some beautiful stone. Didn't know how accommodating the fishing reserve folks are so parked up the road a way. Is that eally private property to the trail head? Is there an alternative approach from Grover side?
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Meagher
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 27, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
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Never been to Woodfords to climb, but after driving by it thousands of times and thinking it looked like a good place to climb, I am thinking about heading there to check it out soon. From reading this forum it sounds like there is climbing on both the North and South side of the road is that correct?
At this point I am pretty out of shape so I am looking for the routes the easier side, any recommendations? Anything about the area, approach, parking that I should be aware of before I go?
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GILL
climber
Minden, NV
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Mar 29, 2012 - 11:49am PT
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What part of the canyon is Bandit Crag at?
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Mar 29, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
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Ron I have the topo to bandit if your around your shop I'll drop it by today.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Mar 29, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
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This is bandit buttress. Heading west from Woodford station about half a mile there is a huge parking area on the left. Park there. Head across the highway and you should find a well defined trail. There are four bolted climbs on it. Ill try to get the topo on it later. To the left is a 5.7-5.8 bolted crack (A break in security)...(I didnt do it so leave it alone) It is actually a really good place to teach trad leading as if they get nervous there is a bolt to clip instead of gear. Middle route is 5.8 bolted (Prowler). It shares and anchor with the next climb to the right of it at 5.9 (cat burglar). Around the side is a 4 bolt 5.10 (Cervazas in Zapata Land) All FA by Brian Chandler and Larry Van Sant
Theme is "leave the gear and bring the beer"
70 Meter rope is needed expecially for "break in security"
There is a trad route further to the right of Cervezas in Zapata land I put up in 2008 5.8 R that follows a corner system to the top. No anchor with a walk off. FOLLOF (Fear of Love Love of Fear
The gulley to the left of Bandit Buttres is a 3 route trad wall called April Fools wall. Put up by Dan Kennedy and Myself 4-1-08
You can see it to the left in the above picture
Anchors are below the tallest point where Dan is hanging out
Dirty 5.8 to the left
Middle crack 5.10 (where the pig is in the pic)
Right crack is 5.9
Can be run out before the anchors. Place a small cam at your feet on a ledge or you run it our 20+ feet to anchors.
Enjoy
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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What are the routes on the back of one of these days? a bolted face, a red tagged bolt, short dihedral and some stuff across the gully
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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All I hear is woodfords, woodfords, woodfords now I need a little info and nata. has the woodfords crew lost interest?
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GoMZ
Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
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Finally got on "one of these days" today. Great route, even though I missed the onsight by about 10 feet. I'll be back:)
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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That's definately an awesome route and there are many other cool lines around I'm trying to get a hold of a topo for some of the surrounding routes. Tomorrow afternoon I think will just climb what looks good and figure it out later.
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GoMZ
Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
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There were a few folks climbing on the cliff directly across the creek from One of these days. Don't know what they were on but it looked pretty fun.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Yeah, Climbed over there on sun. The routes we did were a bit dirty but fun.
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GoMZ
Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
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Yep "warmed up" on it I was pretty warm within the first 20 or so feet though:) I messed up at the top and tried to go too high, fell off and hung and saw the right way, felt like 5.9 once I saw the line. Oh well, I'll get it next time. That thing is pumpy though for sure.
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dave goodwin
climber
carson city, nv
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good job Gomez!!! there is a decent .10a to the right that is good to warm up on. not great, but does serve as a good warm up. You can also TR a sweet .11 off the ten as well. I'll give you a shout tomorrow and catch up with ya!!
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GoMZ
Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
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Cool Dave, been wanting to catch up with you too. Need to tell you about skiing in AK, it was epic!!
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Gomez,
Let me know when you're headed back out there. I'm off on weekends!!!
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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kenny t - i believe the short corner is a 5.9 and fun. then up and next to it a bolted 5.9ish. then behind that is a 10c- ish thing called green tongue, i think, not positive on the name. then to the right down lower from that is a 5.8 route and have fun.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Thank's czar
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GoMZ
Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
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May 10, 2012 - 12:37am PT
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Yeah Freido, I will, sounds good!!
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GoMZ
Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
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May 12, 2012 - 02:47am PT
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Chim-chim, thank you! I will definitely check those out. I did in fact notice the rockfall area, it looked fairly new so that makes sense. What were the routes you guys were climbing.
Thanks,
Steve
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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May 12, 2012 - 07:21pm PT
|
anyone have a topo for cloudburst canyon they are willing to share?
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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May 13, 2012 - 03:14am PT
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Damn you guys are killin me with woodfords talk. As Dave G knows I'm In the middle of moving and can't get my cragging on for a while. Ron I've been saying for years we need a good ole get together in the canyon. Hopefully this summer/fall we can set something up. Have fun out there and hope to be out in a couple of weeks
Ativan grin 10b. Longest Left leaning white streak on the right side of pic and Halcion hallucination 5.9 to the right. Another 5.9 ish to the right of Halcion
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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May 13, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
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Ron, Dano told me about that arete behind the cabin in the early 90s and I stopped by and there were no bolts up high then. I don't know whats up with that you could steal two hangers without hardly leaving the ground. I live two minutes away pm me if you want to fix it up it looks perty cool.
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GoMZ
Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
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May 13, 2012 - 05:39pm PT
|
Sweet thanks BRB!!
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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May 15, 2012 - 01:37am PT
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Kenny.
Ron gave me some hardware to fix that route a couple years ago. If you want to go out and fix it I'm in. Unfortunately my hardware is buried in storage for two weeks. If you have some I will replace it with bolts from Ron's donation. What's your schedule like? I have Friday sat Sunday off. Friday probably is best for me but I'm flexible
Shawn
Gomz. Your welcome. Those were my first routes I ever put up. Three days hanging to clear out the cracks.
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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May 16, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
|
Gomez,
I know of 5 plus routes near One Of These Days that you might enjoy. I did two onsights the other day. and there are three to five other climbs I know of in Cloudburst Canyon. Let's try to get out there soon!
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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May 16, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
|
A guide (even photo copied hand drawn would work) giving the general lay out would sell...
Otherwise, I think I'll just go walk up to some rock and climb...
What could possibly go wrong with that plan? ;-)
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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May 26, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
|
up in Markleeville for the weekend. Haven't climbed in South Lake area. Woodfords sounds cool. Would love to know where mixed climbs are (crack, face?). Any info greatly appreciated.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jun 28, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
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Anybody wanna climb there tomorrow?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Short but fun route at Woodcutters wall what is it?
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Unnamed as of Ron's old guide. Dan may have climbed and named it by now. Nice little climb though. Keep heading up the hill to "the steeple". Fun stuff up there. Dan has beta on mountain project
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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thats a 10c or d. super fun.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jul 20, 2012 - 07:14pm PT
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Shiny new anchor up and right of the green tongue. What is it? Doe's anyone know the projected date of completion of the low angle route down and right of that?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Dan, I'll hook you up with a few bolts never noticed those anchors before looked new. If you need some bolts pm me
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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Aug 12, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
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hey, i found one grey sock(not sticky) and a nice one dollar bill at the base of that 5.9 plus dihedral across from green tongue. im keeping the dollar. also dan, one in my party released a torso sized block off duststorm. its at the base, buried in the dirt. later.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Aug 12, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
|
Kenny and chim
I'll split the bolt count and anchors with you for cloud walker
Just want to be in on that one. Been wanting to finish that one with chim for a couple years. Chim and I had the bolt placements marked a couple years ago and got caught up on other projects.
Keep me in the loop when you want to do it. Busting ass on Burningman stuff right now but would be ready to hit it after the burn
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Aug 12, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
|
Hey Shawn, You and Dan should bolt that thing up. I'm just offering some bolts and hangers if you guy's need them. Kenny Any of you guy's climb this thing at S.T.Buttress?
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Aug 15, 2012 - 10:18am PT
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Ron I Havnt forgot to replace the stolen ones there. Chim we will get together soon. Tell Sasha hello from shanada
Shawn
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CHOSS BOSS
Trad climber
Crumbly Corners
|
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Aug 29, 2012 - 08:00pm PT
|
Where in the hell is Woodferds?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
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A one-of-a-kind finish...
Oops, wrong thread. (Blame it on the strawberry daiq.)
Don't be jealous, Woodfords, I'll be back, we're still bff!
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CHOSS BOSS
Trad climber
Crumbly Corners
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CRICKETS...............................
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
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If any locals want to drop in, I'll be at Woodfords tomorrow for a few sets on One of These Days. Just let me know.
My shoulders and back need strength maintenance if not building, ha! for an upcoming high sierra project. Took it for granted on a recent Mithral Dihedral ctc that ended up spanking them. And me. Humbly. (Of course, one could also argue it was my lousy core and footwork given that glorious crack, I wouldn't argue the point.)
At my age, there's no more taking this sport for granted. Serious stuff!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
|
Yes, Woodfords has been a heavenly place of late. Inspiration for next time...
Plenty of 4th and easy 5th, too, for you wilderness explorer types as well. Lots of easy 5th FAs, too, for the kids. 'Tis the season on the sunny south-facing side. At least through tomorrow!
More later, woo-hoo!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2012 - 05:38pm PT
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Hey all,
I'm looking for a few bolts and hangers to establish a little something out my way: Jobs Peak foothills area.
Kenny, any of these left you might want to part with?
Thanks.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 15, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
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Bill, I'm sure I could spare a few.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
|
Good to hear, Kenny!
Thanks you guys, let's just have back that outrageous sunny warm weather once again now!
So we can all get back to cragging on those awesome south facing sides!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2012 - 11:39am PT
|
Chim, good to hear.
Hey, what bolt standard, or standards, are you using in Woodfords nowadays?
[Click to View YouTube Video]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kqwxN8u_9w&feature=player_embedded
BTW,
It's interesting that 3/8 sleeve anchors only have a 5/16 threaded core. That leans me as a noob bolter to think of preferring the wedge anchor whose size matches the threaded core. Example: 3/8 equals 3/8. But then I'm only a noob thinking about this.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 26, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
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Bill, call white cap in reno and order up powers (formerly rawl) 5 piece 3/8 x 2 1/2 stainless steel and your good to go. those thinks are good to like 7000lb in shear in good granite
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
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I checked into White Cap, guy's going to call me back with price.
bolts vs studs
So is there a push in Woodfords to go with removeable bolts rather than nonremoveable studs?
I mean, if I set a few anchors with SS wedge studs now that it's the 21st century, not the 20th, anyone like Kenny or Dan or Ron (or that guy in the video using a torque wrench) going to bitch slap me for my choice? :)
Or maybe I'm just overthinking it and should just go get it done.
Yeah, just go get it done. LOL!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 26, 2012 - 02:27pm PT
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Bitch slap them back.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 26, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
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Bill, Make sure you leave fixed draws on everything you bolt if you want to maximize the supertopo expert bitch slappin.
I walked all the way up to bandit crag and no fixed draws wtf who's in charge up there? below are a few other items which may come in handy on your bolting adventure
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 26, 2012 - 04:51pm PT
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 27, 2012 - 12:26pm PT
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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Nov 27, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
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yeah dan, great climb with a great crux and still a fun eggy finish, thanks for gettin me up there. get on it!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 27, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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What's an "eggy finish"?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 05:18pm PT
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what we REALLY need is a flight through the canyon to photograph it...
Ron, Google Earth. It's the source.
Of course the app does a much better job than this pic of course.
Same picture, marked up:
By all means, get Google Earth, if you don't already have it.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
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One more, a close up, of an interest of late:
Worthy!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 28, 2012 - 07:43pm PT
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I think the gondolas a few years out. Hey Dan, Bauer was gonna give me the tour but he's leaving town for a few maybe you can show me around next time your heading up. looks like it's going to be wet for a few.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 28, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
|
Andre, How's the foot doing?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 28, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
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After a holiday weekend trip to the gorge the solitude of Woodfords sound's awesome
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 28, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
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That's f*#ked up.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 28, 2012 - 09:40pm PT
|
the next time they take your leading license let them keep it!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 28, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
|
some bouldering essentials you may have overlooked.
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Nov 29, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
|
Kenny,
I know a few routes on the fortress. I'd be happy to show you when it's dry...
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 30, 2012 - 10:58am PT
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That sounds good a little woodfords windstorm should dry things right up.
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JerryA
Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
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Nov 30, 2012 - 11:21am PT
|
Topic Official Sponser : www.woodfordreserve.com .
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 30, 2012 - 12:49pm PT
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Woodfords today. soggy
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 30, 2012 - 12:58pm PT
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woodfords mon....
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
|
Bolting experts, a question or two...
What's the theory behind using the little blue plastic piece atop the sleeve? I mean why not just go with the metal sleeve all the way to the end? If you get my meaning...
What say you if I mounted a carbon steel hanger atop an SS bolt, is that a major faux pas in the business?
Thanks for your help.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 30, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
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If you remove the blue sleeve you may void the warranty therfore opening yourself up to a costly lawsuit
http://www.powers.com everything you need to know about the 5 piece bolts and the blue compression ring
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
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But you're neglecting the 20 sec rule: if you replace the blue sleeve within 20 seconds, you're good! ;)
Ron, I simply mean mixing an SS bolt and a CS hanger (for lack of an SS hanger) - would that get me bitch slapped by you guys?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 30, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
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Bill, Ive placed hundreds of cs bolts with ss hangers bitd and the only thing I've noticed is the washers rust a little paint the hangers if your worried about it if the two metals aren't in contact galvanic corrosionc shouldn't occur. If your going to spend the $$$$ on ss bolts why not fork out the extra buck for a compatible hanger?
You will probably be bitched slapped anyhow
Stainless steel hangers from metolius 3.50
Fixe plated steel hanger 2.40
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 30, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
|
Hey Footloose, there are plenty of stainless steel hangers up at the bandit crag next to those cracks.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 03:24pm PT
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Kenny, you're crackin me up over here, lol!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 30, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
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I have cabin fever today
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 30, 2012 - 07:30pm PT
|
woodfords 4:30 pm
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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It's been pouring all night here. one mile from the canyon
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
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Yeah, I'm in... the Eiger psyche!
The Eiger psyche is a rare bird. None but mine manifest this morning.
Can you all tell which way the wind was blowing? LOL!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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So where's the camping around there? The only reason I haven't made it up there more than once was because I couldn't figure out where any plush (free) camping was. Also, I could really use a tour guide.
On another note, you guys are crazy if you're using Metolius hangers. Those are so 90's and like getting Starbucks when 7-11 will do.
In good faith I'll let you all onto my secret. ClimbTech gear has stainless hangers for 2.45, but you can talk em down to 1.95 if you get 100 bucks or more. They also have plated steel hangers for 1.65ea and Powers stud bolts for 1.75ea which is a pretty good deal. There's a good sale going on for 5/16 quicklinks for .75 cents each too.
So, about that tour guide?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 01:52am PT
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Sal,
Good to hear you're eyeing Woodfords again. Unfor I can't do tomorrow (looks like only partly sunny anyways, via point forecast) but let's get on it !! next sunny weather break as I've been wanting to get together a long time now. Are high temps required? Hell no. Because winter side is all south facing and when hit by the sun in these alcoves she gets warm even at 45.
Now of course a tour is going to cost you later this spring though - I'm thinking a partner - adventurous, hard-driving - either at the Hulk, Keeler or at this Angel Wings spectacle.
Next sunny weather, I'll PM you.
Maybe you can get out weekdays also.
P.S. I discovered ClimbTech (thanks again BT), and ordered bolts, hangers and quick links from them just last week. It was a good deal.
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.78781013665601&lon=-119.80865478515625
Next weekend forecasted sunny, maybe.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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I,love to spend my extra money on metolius hangers and expensive bolts.
Sal, there is more "plush"free camping than you could even imagine a stones throw away from the canyon
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Dan, what route are you on in the above photo?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
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Chim,
Didn't make it to Woodfords but the clearing in Carson Valley today was impressive...
Next time you come through, I'll introduce you to one of my favorite local workout crags...
I know you'd enjoy this one...
Did you make it out to Kirkwood? what's the snow condition now up there?
Jebus, get strong, next spring we'll swing, woohoo!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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One of my favorite workout spots, I need to get up there!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
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Yeah, Ron, I knew posting that pic to the post might cause some confusion. I just wanted to stir the juices regarding bolting and what not. But the Jobs Peak expedition is still on, of course just have to wait out the season or the weather now. In the meantime, there is Woodfords and Carson Valley Sentinel to keep me fit.
You've been there, to CVS? How cool is that? Where haven't you been, ha! Never noticed any pins but I do have a pretty killer rope solo setup on Sunny Delight for sunny seasonal days like today. You're more than welcome to come by and have a go on it. Better than Dino Rock, yes. Better than that Prison Hill Crag, yes. Better than Washoe Boulders, yes. I do think you'd be impressed!
In fact, got a bit of a sunburn today. :)
One of my favorite workout spots
KT, we have much in common!
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
California
|
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KWood was working on it's own definition of a $hit show this morning.
Not a single chair was loading until 10:15 and by then a rather large gathering had amassed at the base of chairs 5 and 6. % started running and the line grew as people bailed on 6 for 5. I think 6 started moving just as we decided to bail, probably around 11:30 or so.
The snow off trail wasn't that great, at least bottom of the mt. Skiable breakable (shudder) crust. I hate that word, but that's what it was. But not total tail grabbing, nearly impossible to ski breakable, you could turn on it, but it wasn't very good.
Did not hang out to find out if the high stuff ever got open. Congrats to those who stuck it out and maybe got some good skiing in.
It was kind of a disappointing day.
Kirkwood has an impressive amount of snow on the ground for early December however.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
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wml,
Here's the coordinates: 39.114912,-119.800251
There is a 30 minute approach to the CV Sentinel.
It works for me (1) because I'm local, (2) because it's right next to my running circuit. (I run to it, hop on Sunny Delight or Winters Haven, climb, descend, run some more. Some days, this is heaven on earth.)
Hope this helped. Maybe come spring, we'll get a chance to meet at Wordfords or something. I hear you like the high sierra endeavors as well. Any friend of the hs is a friend of mine. Happy climbing!
EDIT No, not true!
Those must be the coordinates to the brothel next to Ron's workplace, ha!!
Hang on, testing...
Trailhead: 39.091835, -119.805543
Sentinel: 39.102073, -119.815650
EDIT Actually, the first set of coordinates are to Dinosaur Rock.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
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Haha, might be old-school then, Ron.
Sunny Delight is 5.9+ or 5.10, depending on variation.
Winter's Haven, a short crack climb to climber's left, is 5.10.
Both likely to give a good pump to the 5.9 climber new to the site.
Drop on in next sunny weather you have Dinosaur Rock on your mind and I'll show.
P.s.
Recall The Left Seam at Dinosaur Rock. 10a (according to Carville), I don't know? But Sunny Delight is MORE than comparable in length and difficulty. Plus, it's in the sun in the winter noon on.
P.S. I'll have to revisit DR with the Carville Guide in hand to make sense of the route names. Now I'm confused. But SD is more than comparable to the two most popular routes on the main face facing the road, best way to say it.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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It's gonna be toasty here today.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Had work stuff today are you going up tomorrow?
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
|
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Gang..What about the obvious rock above the hot springs up on the hill?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Ron has the beta on that stuff.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
|
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kennyt...do you guys need climbing partners?...I have a friend who just got a place in Markleeville and is looking for people to climb with...
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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sure, have him give a call(530) 694-1038 were heading out tomorrow morning
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Dec 24, 2012 - 08:38pm PT
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Christmas eve. @ the fortress
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Dec 24, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
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What route is this?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
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Anyone get out to Woodfords today?
If so, how were the temp inversion effects? Especially at the Fortress area. I'm thinking of going tomorrow.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 16, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
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give me a call Bill.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
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Will do Kenny, thanks.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 18, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
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Hey Dan, The beginning is still pretty snow covered the steep section is pretty good someone was up there the otherday. so it's def. doable
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 18, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
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Dan, I walked up to sunwall today, It was perfect I'm hoping to get up sun. or mon. too
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
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Lucky dogs!
Looks like it was a beautiful day down there. Thanks for posting up.
How you'd guys make out on Walking Jack?
On sight? Red point? Hanging jack? :)
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2013 - 11:42am PT
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On the Perfect Lieback, it's always an issue for me: Where to put that first piece! Among other things, running it out can mean you REALLY REALLY trust your belayer. :)
That five foot section on Walking Jack has always humbled me. Maybe this season will be different, haha.
(If any of you guys rolling through the Carson Valley try out Sunny Delight at CV Sentinel, please let me know on the grade and rating, I'm looking for a consensus. So far it's 5.10 (not 5.9 afterall) and more than comparable in star quality to Dinosaur Rock's Color Me Gone. Sorry, Ron, lol. )
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
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wml, yes, that flaring and frustrating (for me) crack section.
(Though I'd like to add I have a partner who not only floats it, but pauses in the middle of it after placing pro to beta me. Basterd, lol!)
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 22, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
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Nice to see the Fords getting its winter gathering going on. Damn I need a break from work to get back out there......
I miss my second "Home"
Shawn
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 22, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
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mr. burnrockburn, that april fools wall route you be doing looks an awful lot like a route Greg Dexter and i did 2 years ago. Wasn't no bolt, except near the top if i remember correctly, after we were done-just sayin....
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
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Dan, Sound's like yer route got retro bolt by an anti bolter.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
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Just like BITD! no need to chop just mash the hangers flat with a hammer to really get your point across;)
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 23, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
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April fools wall was done April 1 2008. Only bolts on it should be the anchor. Just saying as well
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
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Shawn, I'm sure his memory is not what it used to be.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 23, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
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If you had to place a bolt on a route that already had anchors on it WTF. It's fairly obvious the route has been done before. We did it on gear only. Thus no bolt. I'm not going to waste my time pulling it cause I would rather climb.
Just saying again
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
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I could never understand how smashed hangers were somehow better than rap installed bolts.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
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Ron, Didn't he imp-lie that they did the f.a. with only one bolt when they were done? It's funny anyhow just another BITD prodding.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
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Instead of complaining about this sh#t how about some ex. route maint. like that first crux route is cool but the walk off with a foot of snow is lame. seems like these forty foot routes without bolted anchors might actually get done with fixed anchors. most of those routes are sportcracks.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 02:46pm PT
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More like it's 30' and they're never goin back so why waste the time and money.
Were not talking about classics here. I pulled the conveniance slings from the tree on nev/utah and replaced them with painted two bolt anchor is that bad? I'm 99% sure if Dan were around and I asked him he would not have an issue with it.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
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always loved the way twenty multi colored slings looked wrapped around some tree. O.k. I put the anchors near nev/utah for a new ten foot arete route. anyone doesn't like them they can rap of the hammered slings that were up there.
EDIT: what about the bolted anchors on hillside strangler and stranglehold? did you use those? you can easilly walk off led zepparete and you don't even need the belay bolt at yer waist
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
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Jebus, I have your sling and biner. you can have it back or maybe I'll put it back so ron and rick can rap off it!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
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The rest were done with naturals, because they were so abundant. Exactly,So in other words it would have cost a fortune.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
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After the approach to the Fortress one could truly appreciate some conveniance.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
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We climbed CLEAN BITD.. not always;)
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
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Just effin around Ron no offense
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 23, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
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Thanks for the backup chim. We also did the 5.8r route to the right of bandit buttress (FA) the same day F.O.L.L.O.F. Fear of love love of fear
Aka my divorce route
Shawn
I didn't know one pic would cause so much talk about climbing. Maybe ill post more photos!!
Enjoying one of my rare days off with my future bride
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velvet!
Trad climber
La Cochitaville
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Jan 23, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
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Is there anywhere decent to bivy if one wanted to spend a week around the area this time of year?? Camp ground open? Mega cold at nights?
Also, how steep/long is the approach more or less? I've gotta a leg that requires some delicacy at the moment.
The boyfriend is coming in from England in two weeks and we've got about a week to kill in between my work stints in the Bay Area. Thought this place might be just the ticket if the weather is nice. Thoughts??
:)
lib
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
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Some thought it would be convenient to have a bolted easy crack at "bandit crag" too.. Yeah, I'm not even sure you need your hands for that one.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 24, 2013 - 12:38am PT
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Kenny
I don't like that bolted crack but its already there. I've used it to teach people to lead trad on. If they get freaked about trad placement they can clip up. It's shitty that it was bolted but I'm just gonna get the best out bad situation. Routes fun either way.
Ran into the guy who bolted it and he said he wanted a crag in woodfords that you could "leave your gear and bring more beer".
Again don't agree but........beer is good
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 27, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
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Anyone available wed. or thurs. next week for the Fortress?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 27, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
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Hey guys and gals,
Didn't mean to start any controversey over April Fools Wall. Haven't checked this thread in quite awhile. I wasn't claiming any first ascent since there was already a bolt anchor on top when we did it. I just thought the picture and caption about pulling up the bolt kit was of a later ascent. Anyway i'm not claiming any first ascents down there except for Suicide Falls center 5.10x in 1978 with Steve Miller and possibly Sole fusion with Billy Price in 1980.Did other highly visible and desirable features there in the early to mid 1970's but i knew there had already been quite a bit of activity and such obvious features surely would have already been climbed.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 29, 2013 - 11:53am PT
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Thanks for clearing that up Rick. Suicide falls has been calling me for a long time except for the x rating. I kinda like not killing myself for a climb
Shawn
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 29, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
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So Ron how do you feel about making an X route safe by placing a bolt or two?
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 29, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
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Thanks Ron. I never want to F up a route but I also want them safe. As you know woodfords rock can be quite loose and difficult to protect in some places. Hope to try those routes this summer so I don't want change your routes
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 29, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
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Were headin up tomorrow a.m. if anyones interested
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Jan 29, 2013 - 09:58pm PT
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Has anyone climbed it since I put the bolts in ?
It's a great route.
Nice work Ron
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 29, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
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Scott,are you working tomorrow?
Has anyone climbed it since I put the bolts in ?
yeah it's still a little run out.
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Jan 29, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
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Hey kenny,
I want to climb but I'm working
looks like a great day have fun
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
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Kenny, have fun. Wish I had more time, I'd like to join you. Hopefully later as the season gets going. I just bumped the Suicide area high up on my Woodfords list, can't wait to check it out.
When you make it north to Carson or whatever, give a call, I'll break away and show you Sunny Delight. You'd like it.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 30, 2013 - 12:09am PT
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Ron and Burnrock and others: The route at Suicide Falls Miller and i did was up the center of the face to the right of the falls and we called it Senior Center Slab since there was a small senior center at Woodfords in those days that we began our approach from. We simply walked up there and picked what we thought of as the most direct and aesthetic route on the formation. What i remember is a moderate first pitch. An increasingly difficult and steeper 2nd pitch which was in discontinuos seems with very little protection and 5.10 mantle a long ways out from anything reliable.There was a final short and steep pitch to the top of the formation.Unfortunately i lost all of my climbing pictures, notes, etc. to high ground water in the crawlspace of my first home in Alaska in 1986 otherwise i would be posting pics from the past of the greater Tahoe area on this forum. P.S. The rock was pretty chossy in comparison to the Leap or the Loaf being granular if not downright crumbly
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 30, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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this thread wins
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 30, 2013 - 10:24am PT
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and the grand prize is.....
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jan 30, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
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Great comments. I love the old photos. They retain some amount of mystery that hi-res pics can take away from a route.
While the knowledge is being spread, anyone know anything about this bohemeth? It's located in the canyon west of Bandit Crag (northside of the hwy). There was a bolt spotted on the lowest part of the wall as of Jan 2012 (bottom left side of the pic right of the pine tree). The wall is not as consistently steep as it appears, with several blocky, loose bands, but there are a few descent possibilities. Anyone know of any routes on this guy?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jan 30, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
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Here's a few shots from downhill and mid-wall. I was excited about the possibilities from afar but thought it rather lackluster up close, though a few single pitchers looked ok.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jan 30, 2013 - 04:51pm PT
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Colin Hupp and Mike Stroschien did a route somewhere near called "over booked" (5.9) that had 1 bolt below a small roof traverse and corners below- crack finish-- back in 89
Well the bolt is at the end of a shallow little crack and I remember speculating if the party continued up into runout slab terrority (no other bolts) or if they traversed right into a good looking, right-facing book 1 pitch up (see the shaded corner in the second picture). That book is the most obvious line on the wall but you can't take a direct approach to it. I wouldn't be surprised if this is the route you described, Ron.
Maybe something like this?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 30, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
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Dan, I climbed at the Fortress with Mark B today I have to agree with Milton Mugambe on the quality of the Whisker biscuit. I did take a bit of a beating on Walking Jack though.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 30, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
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Ron you have to refresh my memory-it was only 34.5 years ago. So soon i forget things. Anyway ,is what you call Suicide Falls in the Flying Block area the biggest formation in the lower part of the canyon and right of the creek?If so, and Flying Block takes a direct line up the best looking part of the tallest section then i believe it is very similar to Senior Center Slab.We climbed it hammerless and found protection to be very sparse sept. 1978.Could have used some pins or bolts and probably still does.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 30, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
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Ron i only remember the route because we got a downright thrill (read scared us silly) out of the business pitch. Your description and picture dont do much to jar the memory loose other than to mention hard mantles which we encountered.I remember dead seems, that didn't take protection worth a shat, more than grooves. Of course it was 34.5 years ago and we never went back to that formation.Somewhere up canyon is a 4-6 pitch arete with cracks from finger to chimney but mainly offwidth to chimney in the 5.9 range that my younger brother Pat and i did in the early 70's.I'll be damned if i can even sight what formation it was on these days.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 30, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
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Ron,I think Scott was bullshitting.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 30, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
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Ron, I thought Scott was just messin around but he did say he had done sumphin up there.
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Jan 31, 2013 - 01:09am PT
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No bullsh#t
I did it.
We cleaned the sh#t out of it too.
It's hard to know whats what
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Jan 31, 2013 - 01:28am PT
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I've been looking at that photo and I can't rember.
I did two routes one 5.10 and another 5.11 all cleaned and bolted. Starting from the top of pitch one of Ron's route.
Like I said I'm not sure.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 31, 2013 - 11:42am PT
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My friend Jaimie found a wall a few years ago, and kept it in the "vault" until about a week ago when we snowshoed our way up to the best new find in the Woodfords area in quite a while. !00 feet or so to the top, and the right side overhangs nine feet in ninety. Spill the beans.
Ron, glad u still got it.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 31, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 31, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
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Laine.
Scouted that area with the one bolt back in 08-9 and I Havnt found any info on it either. There is I direct line through the roof as you probably saw that would be hard as sh#t
Been trying to get chim chim up there to scope it with me for a few years. Hint hint chim!!!!
There are several possible routes up there but would more that likely need to be sport. Not a lot of crack there
Ron and all...... Great history
Chim let's get out.....things are starting to settle in on the home front now.
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 31, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
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bad enough, Hung a few times in the crux section perhaps next try I will tape up.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 31, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
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I will be trying again tomorrow. no time fer mittens
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 31, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
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In between projects right now, quit hurting yourself.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 31, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
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Mark gave me the tour, that stuff looks good. I'm not in to good enough shape to get on those right now.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 31, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
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i second Tads call-- MO PICS...And not my crusty ol grainy-ass 110 but shots lol! Ron, those old pics are classics. I'm gonna go find a 110!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 31, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
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State of the art for that time.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 31, 2013 - 01:49pm PT
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Can you even buy a roll of film anymore?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Shawn - I would have to agree. There are a few nice single pitchers we saw. Here are my notes from when we went up there.
That trip we TR'd a steep sport climb at the top of that gulley, once it's cleaned up, prolly goes at a hard 11. A crimp chimp would love it. But with all the cracks around I don't see a pressing need to bolt it (doubt it would see many ascents). That might change if the wall gets more routes on it.
A few of my friends said they went back there a week later and climbed the wall to the top thru a scary roof section, though I don't know exactly where. (Gil if you are out there, feel free to chime in)
I'd like to head back up there this Saturday but I really wanna tick off Jamin for Jehovah and Up the Nuthin.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Laine
That circled area is it. Crack right through the middle that looked great, but hard. Glad to see you guys are up there getting on those routes. I didnt quit understand the bolt there as I thought there was a crack that could have been used. Maybe flared out? Each one of those "gulleys" up there have a lot of potential for new routes. Im hoping to start getting back up there with everyone soon. Have bolts and anchors and will travel......
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Sunday for me.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
California
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It's time for a corn harvest.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2013 - 10:39pm PT
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wml, you should seriously think about giving CV Sentinel a try down this way, too. I predict you would not be disappointed! :)
Have fun. Tomorrow is supposed to be another glorious day here. Wish I could go two days in a row, dang!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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How was it up there today? seemed like it could have been cold
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Hope it's nice tomorrow.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Ron, First crux is immed. around the corner from sunwall, right? I thought left of red pillar. I'm headin up today. Weston, if you haven't done whisker biscuit you should. and the easy routes in the cat scratch area are a lot of fun as well.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Red Pillar anchors are way messed up. Had the same experience when we topped out. Spicy for sure.
Chim Chim. Are you heading up tomorrow? I need to get the Hell out of work. Shoulder is still f'd up but its workable.....
Shawn
WML
The area is actually very well documented by Chim Chim. Just not available at your local book store.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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The rope drag sucked under the arch. Rope Caught under a cam there and was stuck, had to downclimb to unstick it.
OULD is classic. Top out and there are several more climbs on the next tier that are spectacular. Cant remember the names but there is a 10a corner crack that chim lead barefoot with me several years ago.
Its all good up there.
Shawn
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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OULD I believe is 10c. Crux is a balanced move that throws you to the right when you need to stay balanced left to place gear. So much up there and so little time. When you heading up?
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Well keep me in mind. If Im off Im willing to hike up and give you a last tour. Im out as far as leading right now, seconding only now, but I can show you and your group some stuff.
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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What's up with the cliff directly above Bandit crag? sounds like someones been doin some stuff there. we were heading up today but my partner got hung up.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Kenny
Heard about some stuff going on up there but have no details. Dan and I put up a Trad route there in 2008 with walk off then went and put up April Fools wall in the next gully. I remember there was a lot of potential for some sport routes up from Bandit. Ill have to check it out and take some pics
Shawn
Ron
That would be a hell of a lot of wandering to get seven pitches. You guys had brass ones
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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I'm gonna take a walk up there today and take some pics.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Thanks Kenny
Look forward to your "trip report"
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Adventure climbing at its finest.....
If I would have started climbing in my Early 20's I probably would be dead by now. Luckily I started at 30 and understood consequences of injury. ie mortgage not getting paid. Damn I miss my 20's......
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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I can only imagine the smell from all the trundled boulders there when you did that "route"
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Kenny, if ya come across a few buckets with some gear in them on your walkabout (though I doubt you'd find em), those be mine.
Take good notes, there are a lot of "gems" up there
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Laine, is this one yers? I saw two bolts and anchors up a vertical dike
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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that is definately some quality granite up there, I would love to climb that thing but it looks like somebodys project. anyone got info?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Kenny - yea that's what we call Tumbledown House (2p 11a-ish). Named for the amount of death blocks we had to trundle in order to make the route climbable as well as an AZ band (friends of one of the FAists). The route follows that dike all the way to the top and is very uncharacteristic of the fords (smooth, in-cut crimps).
To the left of that route is Roof Bravado and 2 others cracks that all converge at an exciting roof. Yard over the roof to a 2 bolt anchor (hand drilled to keep it oldskool), run some laps or continue up and right on the 2nd pitch (5.8) to the vertical dike of Tumblehouse and follow it to the top. Give em a go and gimme some feedback, I'd love to hear what you think - unless you hate them ;)
We've been calling this place Crystal Wall because there is a bunch a quartz laying around (moreso than in other gullies nearby); however if an name has already been chosen I will be happy to edit the info I've posted. If you continue east past that gully, the next wall you'll find is Deadwood Wall. This is a single-pitch wall with several 5.8's and 5.9's that are a classic and any I've done in the fords. Chimneys, corners, hand cracks, and OWs all within feet of each other.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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just click the links and you'll find all the info. But here ya go anyway...
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Laine, is Tumbledown house a mixed route I only saw two bolts?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Kenny, yea you can place thin pro between bolts. There is one more bolt higher up (3 total). Clip it and make a friction move to the prominent jug that sticks out in the skyline of your last pic. Yard the jug, wipe your brow, and climb to the anchors.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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cool, thanks for the info.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Dan - sure I'd be happy to provide the info in whatever format you want, I just need to know how you'd like it presented. I've not done hand drawn stuff, but I understand from a printing cost perspective if you'd prefer black and white over color. Conversely, if you want photo topos, I can provide raw files so you and your designer can decide how best to display them. We should chat about it in person sometime soon. Maybe I can take a day off before this weather moves in and meet you guys up at the fords.
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pvalchev
Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
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A few shots from yesterday, perfect weather, at least 3 parties! Still only scratched the surface...
Sun Wall middle:
O.U.L.D.
Sun Wall left (my favorite route at Woodfords so far):
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nice.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Laine
Nice looking routes. Glad someone put those up. Eyed those back in 07-08 but didn't make it happen.
Chim
Do you want to hit those and do a hand drawing tomorrow?
Shawn
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Laine or Kenny
Is the approach to Crystal Wall up Bandit buttress east gulley?
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Same as bandit
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Taken from the large dirt parking lot. Hope this help
I PM'd ya Dan with my contact info. Just let me know what ya need.
Cheers,
L
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
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Thanks Laine and Kenny
Heading up in the AM if anyone wants to join
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Yeah, busy day up there. were getting a dusting today should melt off quickly
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Dan, we did Whisker biscuit,couple tr laps on walking jack an easier route to the right up the corner and I be jammin. we were gonna come over and check guy's out but deceided to head out early, seems like you were right behind us.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Ron, After that approach your core temp is pretty high for at least 6 hrs. Not to mention were really abunch of Badasses
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Anyone climbig tomorrow??
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Dan, 5 day forecast looks good.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Was an Awsome day up there. Great to see everyone again. Chims guide is looking Awsome
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Hey Shawn, I think were gonna make it up there tomorrow.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Zero snow.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Are you heading up?
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JustThatEasy
climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
|
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WML,
There's several ways to get to "Serenity Now" (.10d), but I'll give you the directions I'm most familiar with.
First, you have to make your way to the "Way the Hell Up There" (.11c) area. The climb starts to the right, and slightly lower down from the base of that route.
To get there traverse right from the bottom of High Caliber Corridor to a short 3rd/ easy 4th class section. This scramble is marked by a singular pine tree. After the initial scramble keep traversing east and slightly up, angling towards "Way the Hell Up There". The first pitch (of two) climbs on the right side of that formation.
Pitch one is characterized by broken and discontinuous climbing; kinda alpine-like. The end of the pitch goes up a couple short corners and deposits you on a ledge on the climber's left. It's only an access pitch leading you to the goods, which are on the second pitch.
Pitch two leaves the ledge on it's right side and climbs a finger crack to a crack switch about 20' up. Follow the crack as it arcs leftwards to a two bolt anchor. Awesome.
To descend rap Serenity Now's anchor to the ledge. Scramble 40' south to the top of "Way the Hell Up There" which is behind you when you're at the base of Serenity Now's second pitch. Rap off two bolts to the ground.
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JustThatEasy
climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Feb 11, 2013 - 11:16am PT
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Hey Chim! Sounds like great temps the next few days. You plan on doing more cookin' tomorrow?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Feb 11, 2013 - 11:52am PT
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Dan, mark and I are heading up today.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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Feb 11, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
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Two of us got out to woodfords yesterday. Slightly over cast, cold and windy as hell on the wall. We tried a line I’d scoped earlier, but since neither of us could feel our fingers, committing to a akward layback in a steep corner on tiny gear as the wind chilled us to the bone wasn’t in the cards. Maybe next time.
As soon as we bailed the wind died down. Feeling a new sense of inspiration (and warmth) we decided to give a nearby oldskool crack a go. But as luck would have it as soon as Jason racked up, the wind kicked up and the light began to fall behind the wall. Regardless of this piercing wind and fading light he got after it.
Joe Herbst would love this route! Wide hands to offwidth to chimney, gardening as you go. A slick, slabby corner with a few finger jams (once excavated) guards a nice ledge just below broken slabs at exactly 30m. Full value the whole way (though it doesn't seem it from the ground). I followed and literally cleaning as I climb. We setup an anchor and got outta Dodge. I kid you not, as soon as I touched back down to terra firma, the wind stopped yet again. Just another day a fords!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Feb 11, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
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Nice photos Laine, we were up today beutiful blue skys but cold.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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Might I suggest giving this a go...
It's steeper than it looks in the photo. Bring your OW skills. :)
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 12, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
|
Footloose, is that the main aclove?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
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wml, yes 5.9 according to the lit.
laine, it seems to me above it but its categorized this way in this list...
main alcove: toprope wall
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=881711&msg=883188#msg883188
Wear pants!
Hit it first thing in the east sun.
If you do it, would like to read the report!
An onsight lead would be impressive! :)
EDIT
Anyone have a picture of Carabiner Crack?
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JustThatEasy
climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
|
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Feb 13, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
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Footloose and WML,
The Toprope Wall isn't really in the Main Alcove. It's quite a ways east and uphill. In terms of a climbing day it would make sense to combine this area with say the Red Pillar or, better, Serenity Now and it's neighboring climbs.
As far as the climb you highlighted, Footloose, it's not really an OW. It climbs more as a hand/fist crack and has some nice knobs for feet so it never gets terribly desperate or hard. A solid 5.9 seems appropriate. I usually bring two #3 camalots, one #3.5 and one #4 as my biggest piece. Also, hand size gear (and maybe slightly smaller?) is useful.
If you're up there and want to bump it up a letter or two you should climb Mission to Mars (.10-). It's located to the climber's left when starting up the first pitch of Serenity Now. It climbs on the same formation as Way the Hell Up There, about 200' to the climber's right of that line.
For Mission to Mars you'll want a #5 (new style) along with the gear I listed above. Look for a large right leaning ramp in a void (it makes sense when you see it) with a steep wall behind it. There's a large orange roof above the start. Stem up between the ramp and the steep wall (5.7 or 5.8,R) until you reach a horizontal 2" crack. Then turn the roof to the left and charge up the obvious corner to a 2-bolt anchor.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Feb 13, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
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Just a question, why the anonymity?
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JustThatEasy
climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Feb 13, 2013 - 01:16pm PT
|
Hey Kenny!
I'm not trying to be secretive, just haven't signed my name, haha. Glad to hear you're getting out. How are those new Totem's? I'm thinking of getting some.
Cheers,
Ryan
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Feb 13, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
|
I had a feeling that was you but didn't want to say it in case yer hiding from a female stalker haha. It's fun stuff up there, are you heading out any time soon? Oh the Totems seem really cool You can try mine one day.
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JustThatEasy
climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Feb 13, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
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I'm out in Durango right now, and then I'll probably be sent off to a job somewhere (hopefully). I'll hit you up when I get back in town and we'll go climbing. You should drag Meliska out, too.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Feb 13, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
|
Sounds good Ryan. Take care
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
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so it never gets terribly desperate or hard...
So you say. :)
Welcome to the thread, hardman!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Feb 14, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
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Dan, I have a quick work thing in the a.m. should be done by 9:30 when you headin up?
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GILL
climber
Minden, NV
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Feb 15, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
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GILL
climber
Minden, NV
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Feb 15, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
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Cut me off
We climbed the diagonal crack to the ledge, where you drew in the two routes on the far right of your pic. The ledge spans the cliff. You could pitch a tent in the sand on it it's so big. You can walk right to a 10' pine and rap back to the ground. The rock on the first pitch was good. A little kitty littler to clean. The big obstacle was the bushes. They need some heavy gardening. We stretched a 70m rope out doing that pitch. I had to climb up a bit while belaying to get Coston to the ledge. The second pitch is a scramble to the summit. Cool views. The rock is rotten above the ledge. We didn't even bring any gear to the top. Can't remember what we called it. That of course that is presuming someone didn't climb it before us. I'm sure some one has. It seemed like the easiest line on the cliff. Glad people are talking about it and sharing info.
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GILL
climber
Minden, NV
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Feb 15, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
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I talked to Coston. We climber that route last year in January. We called it Low Hanging Fruit. 5.9. Crux was coming out of the roof following the diagonal crack. We where calling the area Wild West Wall. I'm just healing after a shoulder injury and Coston has a new born but we are thinking about getting up there and cleaning the thing up. But like I said before if someone climbed it before us disregard the names. We'll still clean it.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 15, 2013 - 03:57pm PT
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Thanks for sharing, Gill. I was up at that wall not long ago and know exactly the crack you are talk about. I had a feeling that was the line you guys did. I would love to repeat it if just to get over to that great-looking right-facing corner that I circled in the photo. That thing looks real nice.
I'd like to get up to the fords this Saturday and/or Monday but am in need of a partner. If you guys (or anyone else lurking this thread) wants to meet up this weekend we could do some "adventure" climbing up there. Let me know!
L
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Feb 15, 2013 - 07:12pm PT
|
Dan, I got held up today till noon so couldn't make it. How was it up there?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2013 - 11:01am PT
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Dan, you heading up today? Got my new shoes!
Has anyone bothered to check out One of These Days lately? I might want to jump on it to see if my latest strength training program has been successful. :)
Woodfords, hell yeah!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Feb 16, 2013 - 11:40am PT
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Next time Dan
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Feb 16, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
|
Bill, I think it's time for a new look!!
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GoMZ
Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
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Feb 16, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
|
Was up there today, climbed inside out then went to the books and did some laps. A little breezy with high clouds, but not too bad.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 17, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
|
Anyone heading to the Fortress tomorrow?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
|
Kevin Bacon at Woodfords - imagine that! :)
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Feb 20, 2013 - 11:44am PT
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1/2 inch maybe.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Feb 20, 2013 - 11:59am PT
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I'm hoping for sunday.
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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Feb 21, 2013 - 11:00am PT
|
chim- friday may be off just bcuz of snow. bout 2 inches out here overnight, didnt expect that!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 11:03am PT
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There's only a dusting in the valley this morning, not even a quarter inch. It's curious as presently there are only blue skies everywhere! Dusting of snow will be gone within the hour. I'll be climbing this afternoon, woohoo! :)
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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Feb 24, 2013 - 12:13am PT
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a buddy and myself would go to the west wall route and do laps cuz it is such a fun route, we did however dub it "focus fest" bcuz of the friction friction friction! mostly because we didnt know any name for it. still a fun climb, we've been goin a bit over the roofy part at the tree(bush) for a directish finish to the anchor, that part is still cleaning up and a bit harder than the bottom. have fun! p.s. would love to rip them bolts out and put new guys in, i aint falling on those things! i see its an unknown f a, mostly to try n lead it and asking outta respect. dave.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 11:57am PT
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I think 5.10c is fair... that's around my usual onsight level...
Woohoo! I think I just might've found my ropegun for Conness Southwest Face this season. ;)
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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Feb 25, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
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yeah im in chim. been lazy too long.!
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JustThatEasy
climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Feb 25, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
|
Nice shot, Czar! Are you the kid in the pic?
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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Feb 25, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
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no sir.
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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Feb 26, 2013 - 01:38am PT
|
na, thats Roan.
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JustThatEasy
climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Feb 26, 2013 - 08:46am PT
|
Cool, thanks Dan. That photo makes me miss the Woodfords.
I'm hanging out in Durango right now, waiting for a job in Maui to mobilize.
How are things back home? Any new routes recently? I'm anxious to get back and start scrubbing!
Ryan
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
California
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Feb 26, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
|
Anyone want to climb at Woodfords tomorrow? (Wednesday)
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 27, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
|
Dan - that sounds good. Just let me know where to send it.
-L
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Blizzard
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Feb 27, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
|
Hey Dave that is a cool photo of rohan i think i was belaying him that day. Thanks for showing us around it was a really fun going out there with you, dan, rohan, and oggie the doggie. we should do that again sometime.
-Bruce McIntosh
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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Feb 28, 2013 - 06:25pm PT
|
right on bruce, we'll be up there tmrrw
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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I replaced the bolts on the west wall route on the apron today.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Ron, those things seemed pretty bomber still at least in shear, it took a little effort with a three foot prybar. and I did use the same holes. Maybe I'll zip over to led zep and fix that up this weekend but it's perty cold over there.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2013 - 05:34pm PT
|
Kenny, nice. That looks like 3". SS.
I've been thinking it's better to use ss locking washer in lieu of ss flat washer. Any thoughts there? I wish the hanger package came with ss locking washer.
Do you know if using 2 and a quarter wedge bolts for anchors in our granite are now substandard? or not?
On the other hand, maybe it would be no big deal to use cs locking washer together with the ss hanger and bolt.
I wonder if Chim uses 2 and a quarter or 3" for his anchor placements. Maybe he'll pipe in here.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Bill, just use the flat washer and pick up some nyloc nuts if your worried about it, or blue loctite.
Anybody been here?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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If yer not hand drilling why not go deep? 2- 3/8x 2 1/4 should be sufficient for hanging a couple pickup trucks
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
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Yeah, that's the ticket. I pick up some of those nyloc washers.
I'll use the 3". I just wanted to hear any feedback on what is and isn't the standard these days in our granite.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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There is like six sets of anchors on top of the apron and it looks like they pounded 3/8 allthread into the holes. I thought it looked funny that all the anchor bolts had been cut off and then I saw a 5 foot peice of allthread laying in the woods. I wonder if it's glued in? does'nt look like it.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Ron, that looks like an anchor on the orange wall about half way up do you know what that is?this is at the apron there is an anchor on this one.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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This one?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Ron, It's not the cracker cliff but in that vicinity I'm gonna drag Mark Bauer up there tomorrow
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Yep, the world famous mr. BIG
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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good for another 20
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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that should kinda put the stainless/plated steel debate to rest. That is to say that if you want to spend the money on stainless cool, but if you don't yer probably not gonna kill someone. they should be replaced every twenty years or so anyhow
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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when were you there Scott?
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
|
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the day before yesterday and today
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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hey Dan woodfords is really moving up, today there was a porsche at the fortress.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Ya know what the difference between a porsche and a porcupine is?
On a porcupine the pricks are on the outside.
I'm just jealous I love those things.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
|
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2nd alcove, the month of March says hello.id=292217]
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
|
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Sash and I talked sh%T all day about him.
That's kind of sad.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Wes, Checkout the above photos of silver creek crag that scott posted and the one I rotated
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
|
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That place looks cool. How is it in the summer? I'll be getting back on a rope in a month or so.
soooper steep!
ha
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Perfect in summer. And there are some horizontal climbs too.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
|
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Yeah, so riled up right now. Not sure if I will be able to sleep tonight.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Moose, we were hiking around and then did a couple short routes don't know which ones.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Dan, I have not been but Maliska has been sprayin for years about that place. I hear it's good.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Ron, I did do a .12b/c route on the zebra wall in about 95. And I think Scott Thelen did something there too
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
|
Nice to see the canyon is getting some attention. Nice work Chim. Kenny, et al.
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Dan, we just hiked up and checked it out marks gettin over a cold. have you been up there? It's at the lower.orangewall I'm afraid it looks better in pics
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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let me know if you head up
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
|
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Kenny t and Chim Chim trion Peak is that the same or different than Tryon on Ebbetts?
@ Ron hiked by Zebra last year and so not signs of activity most of the stuff was out of my league so I did not any climbing.
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
|
|
Ebbets Pass sucks.
The rocks crap.
Way to many people.
I've done nothing...............
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Kenny t and Chim Chim trion Peak is that the same or different than Tryon on Ebbetts? It's the same one Jeff.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Ebbett's looks pretty polished. Dan, That's the Silver creek cave, we put up some good sport routes back in the early 90s now it's getting revisited by some young strong guy's with an eye for new routes. I'm lookin forward to seeing what they come up with.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Kennyt,
I am gonna hit up for a tour of some of the spots on the east side of Ebbetts and I will show you some of the stuff of the west this summer.
Jeff
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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FUH Q Ron, you know what he means, lmfao
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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How did you get away with comparing yer relationship with your parrot tads with his wife? and came away unscathed
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
|
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Everything has a west side.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
|
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Ron you are right, there is not West Side to Ebbetts, no backcountry skiing, no climbing, no sage brush, no fishing, no kayaking white water or flat water, no aspen groves, and no mountain biking or cool dangerous curves for icecream trucks and trucks pulling boats to crash off of. :)
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Man that ice cream truck made a mess it was along the approach to twenty min. crag. Kayaking the n. fork of the stan. is killer
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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This was a haagen dazs truck and the bears loved it
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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A couple of years ago they closed the road and pulled out the trucks and boat. I kinda get the idea where 20 minute crag is now. Good road bike riding on both sides fo the pass.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
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Thanks Ron for the kuddos. I am a very small cog in the machine that is chim chim.
His passion and love for that canyon is remarkable. I am humbled to climb with him and Sasha as well as the others. I wish I could spend as much time up there as I used to but at this time family comes first........dammit :)
Shawn
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Hey Dan - have you considered also offering an eBook option? While I enjoy my printed guides, I seem to end up scanning and printing sections of the book to take to the crag. Once smart phones came out I started saving the Supertopo books to my phone and using that.
Also it might increase your sales without a significant upfront cost.
Just a thought.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Dan- yes I emailed mike. I just got my photos in .eps format tonight as requested (thanks to my graphic designer aka wife). I'll do a final review and send em off tomorrow. The photos containtge route lines, names, pro and FRA names. Should i submit any additional text like a description of the walls? I do have a photo of the approach that I'm submitting.
Hope it all goes smoothly for ya, man!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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If Woodfoods were closer, I'd be there today. Damn. :(
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2013 - 08:21pm PT
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Happy to report, One of these Days is now open with no controls...
Warm temps and blue skies today, 12 mar 2013. I blazed a trail through the snow in a few sections.
In these, just copy the bootkicks and avoid the half dozen postholes, hahaha! :)
The rock was amazingly warm. Snow melting everywhere. I took two rope solo runs. Shoulders are blasted.
I love Woodfords!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Mar 12, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
|
Bill, you shoulda called I was lurking on the otherside today
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
|
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Mar 19, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
|
Hey Guys....We're heading up this weekend. What's the local weather prognosis? Looks like snow mid-week then sunny. Will it be climbable? Interested in climbing "the west wall route" on the west face of the apron. We're going to be there Sunday and Monday...
If anyone needs a partner, feel free to join in......
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
|
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Mar 19, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
|
Thanks Ron! What about the weather there. I remember that climb being in the shade at later in the day in the summer. Is it in the sun in the winter?
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
|
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Mar 19, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
|
Thanks Dan...There were old bolts on it last year when I looked at it. I have some bolts and rap rings. I'm not quite set up for bolt replacement yet but if someone has a kit I'd be happy to replace when climbing it.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
|
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Mar 19, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
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Slow on the draw...you guys much faster typers then I.......
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Mar 21, 2013 - 11:03pm PT
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Mar 23, 2013 - 11:59am PT
|
Dan I have a couple pics of whites if you want them
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
|
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|
Mar 23, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
|
We'll be climbing on the Apron tommorow.....
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
|
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|
Mar 23, 2013 - 06:30pm PT
|
Does anyone want to climb tommorow?
Super nice out... Wish I could post a photo from I Phone but don't know how.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Mar 23, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
|
I think were heading to the fortress if yer up.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
|
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Mar 23, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
|
What time are you comming Kenny?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Mar 23, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
|
9:30 at parking area.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
|
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Mar 23, 2013 - 09:25pm PT
|
Karaoke at the bar tonight but I think we can make it...
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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|
Mar 24, 2013 - 11:20am PT
|
Bump for blue skies!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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Mar 25, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
|
Yo Ron - is this the start to Up to Nuthin?
We followed a nice little 5.7 corner just left of that 5.9 on the Top Rope wall.
Then we tied into a 5.5 chimney that takes you to the top of TR wall and what I think is the second pitch of your route.
Does this sound correct?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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Mar 25, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
|
That makes sense you would do that. While the corner we climbed was very nice - it was short (like 25ft)and ended in a weird place forcing us to move the belay down a bit to access the chimney without heinous rope drag.
BTW- What kinda gear you guys use in that chimney?! Without a #5 you are soloing that thing.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
|
Hey boys,
Where can I find Carabiner Crack?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
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Ron, thanks. Any pictures? Ref shows it 5.10c three stars, equivalent to One of These Days, I think.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Mar 29, 2013 - 11:32am PT
|
Anybody wanna spray about Woodfords today?
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
|
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Mar 29, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
|
Kenny,
looks like rain this weekend. Maybe next weekend? I've been mtn biking but would like to get back on the rock... (insert gratuitous drug reference here)
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
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|
Mar 29, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
|
Give it a rest chump chimp. Spray on about your routes and your area. Its what you've done best on this forum for years now. Attention seeking poser.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Mar 29, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
|
Woodfords may be mostly short, broken, wandering, somewhat contrived lines with horrible rattle snake infested approaches that barely justifies 3-4 visits a year, but it ain't really choss... and it is fun. Far better than Pie Shop. I'm looking forward to the guide and appreciate the work being done.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
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Mar 29, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
|
Ron. Ariza's apparently all butt hurt not everybody strokes it to a Chris Sharma baseball card at night like he does is as near as I can figure it.
Wow. Stop taking your med's did you?
All I know is Woodfords will be celebrated long after the bolts rust out of Ariza's seaside piles, lol.
"My" Seaside Pile was developed ten years before I ever even climbed there. 5.13c was done there in 1984. That aside, Do you think you could even tow your ass up the warm ups down there? Of course not. No talent big mouth.
From those who dig our turd piles at Woodfords: F*#k you, Ariza.
Nobody cares about your f*#king glory hole known as Woodfords....and....have a shitty day
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
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Mar 29, 2013 - 04:47pm PT
|
It's been fun Jeebus
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
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Mar 29, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
|
word
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
|
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|
Mar 29, 2013 - 06:14pm PT
|
If "nobody cares about your glory hole known as Woodfords", then why are there 945 responses to a thread started 3 years ago and still going strong.
FACT: Woodfords is a great place to climb!
Game over!!!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
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Mar 29, 2013 - 06:17pm PT
|
Sorry to have offended anyone with my past comments... trying to grow up but it's difficult at times
Ditto Chim
climb smart, not hard!
The Geriatric climbers mantra......oops, see again. Classic example.
Really though, its time I put the brakes on the keyboard drama.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Mar 29, 2013 - 06:43pm PT
|
Everyone thinks their home crag is great
Nah... I think Spanish limestone is great, Fontainebleau is great, Indian Creek is great, Squamish is great, etc. But the only great thing about my home crag was the people.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
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Mar 29, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
|
Dan,
Of course man. I've gotten carried away more than once on this forum when it would've been better to just shelf it.
BTW, I'm not too blind to see that some of those lines down there look pretty damn good. Even if I'm too stubborn to admit it.
KA
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Mar 29, 2013 - 07:15pm PT
|
Geez, I was just effin around with the spraying comment everytime a guy jokes around here somebody gets butthurt. maybe I should stick with the serious sh#t on the politard threads but I'm just not smart enough. I'm glad I was out sportclimbing today.
Ken, Do you remember climbing at all sometime in the eighties with a guy named Denny Barton?
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
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Mar 29, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
|
Dimitri but not Denny Barton.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Mar 29, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
|
I hung out with Dimitri at the cave a bit until his falling out with everyone there. Denny was my cousin and mentioned Ken Ariza at one time.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
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Mar 29, 2013 - 07:51pm PT
|
Climbed a bunch with Dimitri but lost contact with him. Don't recall ever meeting Denny but that could have something to do with my constant drug use at the time.
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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|
Mar 29, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
|
C'mon Kenny, I distinctly remember you breathing in some lungfuls of clean air between hits!!
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
|
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Mar 29, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
|
I had a great time at the crag with Kenny and the local gang last weekend. Couldn't have been a friendlier bunch. At this point in my life it's more about the experience then the numbers. Good gang and will be back soon. Nice area and like the hot springs after climbing, even if the bar closes at 8pm on a Saturday night.....
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Mar 29, 2013 - 10:54pm PT
|
Tony, did you guys checkout the sport routes in markleeville?
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
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|
Mar 29, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
|
Ha, very few Urmas. I learned from the best. Miss those days a lot. And those folks.
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
|
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Mar 30, 2013 - 12:06am PT
|
you going out tomorrow kenny?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Mar 30, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
|
Scott, true value today maybe checkout the lower s.c. routes you did
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2013 - 11:02pm PT
|
Ron,
I'm still unclear regarding the location of Carabiner Crack. 5.10c ***. Could you mark it up? or could someone who's in the know mark it up? on Kenny's exquisite pic here...
I hope to check it out. Much appreciated. Looks like the weather's going to improve! :)
Here's Kenny's pic again, marked up, for future reference...
Now less chance of confusion maybe. :)
Is Carabiner Crack in the green box? further west, orange box?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2013 - 12:36am PT
|
Ron, thanks!
Can hardly wait to check it out now!
I'll be sure to let you know if it's comparable to
One Of These Days - with its 5.10c *** rating. Happy climbing!
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
|
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aint no workout like one of these days. i am rockin out, feelin it.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Don't forget the brightly colored lycra that went so well with 80s glam rock!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Dan, mark and I went out to true value today, hope your dogs o.k.
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Ryan Evans
climber
Kings Beach
|
|
anyone headed out to woodfords? i am thinking of checkin it out on friday/saturday.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Does this man have his certification to bolt in Alpine county? we just got back from cloudburst its perfect up there right now
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Just a little recon with my wife and kids
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
next good day I wanna climb up there maybe that wall where Ativan grin is located
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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not too much but I'm hopeful my son is kind of psyched but he's only 6
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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That trail to Cloudburst could use a little manicuring snips should part of the standard rack.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Dan, was that Bryce picking up some bolts? I saw his rig up at the apron today.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Oh yeah, That's the orange wall above the apron
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Ryan Evans
climber
Kings Beach
|
|
does the perfect lie back area face south? any east? Do the climbs dry out quickly after light rain?
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Ryan Evans
climber
Kings Beach
|
|
perfect! that crack looks beautiful.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Short but fun routes with or without the bolt. lighten up Jerome there's people starving in the world
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Dan, has this been done? I'd like to check it out
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
one for footloose....
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
That stuff is intriguing, Oddly enough one of my favorite lines is the green tongue and those other lines look similar in nature
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
|
Dan
So sorry to hear about the pup, sad bro. You and Sasha hang in there. Will come up and visit you this weekend if your working . Lexi is healing up after blowing out her other ACL and is doing pretty well.
Glad to see so much interest up the canyon this spring. I don't think I've seen so many people psyched to get up there. Let's get those routes cleaned up!!!!!
Shawn
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
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Can't even imagine Dan. Breaks my heart too. When does auggie need another transfusion? Estes is going in to have a procedure done and will be knocked out. It's in a couple weeks and if you need another transfusion let me know and ill see what I can do.
Shawn
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
|
O Kenny, now that's inspiring,
wish I were climbing Woodfords today!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Actually threw in an anchor and was scrubbing/trundling wasn't so bad better than the couch
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
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Strong work Kenny, I'm with Ron. Figured you'd get blown away. Windy as sh#t down here while I'm tryin to get some landscaping done. I feel and look like a day at woodfords cleaning routes. Although I didn't wear ski googles like Dan and I on our last route scrubbing
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
It was definitely a little windy my ears are full of dirt and lichen now I have to give them a scrubbing.
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Ryan Evans
climber
Kings Beach
|
|
Headed down tomorrow morning, gonna camp out lookin for good recommendation in 5.8-5.9 to tick.. and maybe a good 5.10 intro. to the area.
I drive a red Subaru.
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Ryan Evans
climber
Kings Beach
|
|
any easier wide stuff? Off width? had my eye on perfect lie back.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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P.L. Is not wide stuff.
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Ryan Evans
climber
Kings Beach
|
|
lookin for wide and off width. any recommendations?
its hard to judge what to do off a topo.
thanks chim chim sounds like enough to stay busy near P.L.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Dan, at the big boulder before the creek crossing you go right kind of the shortcut to those other side of the creek routes, a little splitter on the right side on the way up. I trundled some perty good size stuff.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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not a very good one maybe 100' down and right of orange wedge
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Dan, I should work tomorrow but could be persuaded to go to cloudburst if the weathers decent maybe Mark is up as well
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
yeah. not very long or difficult but with another couple hours of cleaning should be fun.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
I thought I saw a lonely bolt up there.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
A Clit pinching is sometimes uncomfortable, so I've heard.
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Ryan Evans
climber
Kings Beach
|
|
Great climbing in Woodfords yesterday. Lots of good cracks on good rock to choose from. hit up the perfect lie back and Il be jammin. Did a mellow adventure climb and it was an adventure. Cant wait to go back.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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I saw the red suby there yesterday glad you got out.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Moose, I'll be glad to hear when yer doin better we'll go climbing everyday for 1 week.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Moose, I scrubbed a new little 5.9 crack today it's only about 60' but it will be fun for ya
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Where is it Kenny? Across the stream from one of these days this is the first 15' maybe we'll call it through the trees?
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Ryan Evans
climber
Kings Beach
|
|
so i saw the feautre called the steeple and check it out on Mountain Project out, rates a climb in 10a? is this solid 10a or like ill be jammin? any beta would be appreciated. What a beautiful corner.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Someone told me the cracks are low angle, shallow and flared. I also hear the rock is flakey, the approaches steep and poison oak and rattlesnakes abundant.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Someone told me the cracks are low angle, shallow and flared. I also hear the rock is flakey, the approaches steep and poison oak and rattlesnakes abundant. who the f*#k told you that? there's no poison oak around here! LOL Jim it's a fun place to climb with a variety to suit many climbing styles.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Got you!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
You Did.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Work harder on the name ;)
Here's mud in your eye would also be appropriate
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
No, Really my eyes were full of dirt and lichen during the cleaning
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Take me there Ron. Remember the only climbing command i still use is, "up rope, i'm not moving!"
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
I no longer ask for a belay I refer to it as a tow.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Is there a bed in the sled? If so, sign me up!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Anyone got beta on this little gem? It is downhill from Red Pillar & uphill from Sun Wall.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
It's a 5.9 I forget the name I think it's in Rons book
1st crux?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Can we add a convenience anchor to that thing?
I'll show my birth certificate
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
That's was what I was thinking but was unsure. It looks good. I'll have to check that out this weekend along with Up to Nuthin and that delicious looking unknown 10c (FA T. Herbert) to the left of Red Pillar. That 10c is one of the cleanest hand/finger cracks I've seen in the fords! Too bad it isn't longer.
We should also think about moving the anchors at the top of the pillar (they are looking pretty rusty). Next time I'm up there I'll take a few pictures and post em up for feedback on what we could do (if anything).
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
I don't think anyone would be butthurt by replacing existing anchors if yer motivated take yer bolt kit instead of the camera.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
The problem is that there is not a lot of options up there. The best place to put them would be on a boulder sitting atop the pillar but it is questionable (its big but sitting on a slope near the edge, kinda chossy). Probably not gonna lug up the drill next time and I would like other peoples 2cents on the best location. When I climbed RP I belayed from the top to minimize the rope drag. Have others lowered after finishing the route and belayed from the bottom? Depending on the norm, the location will be different (set back vs near the edge).
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Sorry bout that MD - how's this...
The perfect lieback is neither.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
1st crux takes 3 times as long to walk off as it doe's to climb ;)
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
I was up on the Apron and counted at least 7 sets of anchors, did I already mention that?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Yes seven that I counted I probably missed some.
2 sets above the freezer box, 1 set at don't let me down,2 sets at the two flaring cracks near west wall route and two more sets high on the westwall across from Henrys unit.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
see my post above, you still use the tree for woodthin
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
It looks like they just bashed allthread rod in the holes I found a 5 or six foot piece in the bushes.no signs of epoxy at the holes
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
I like the idea. I could brew some Woodfords beers for the occasion. Maybe a Cat SCratch Fever Jalapeno Ale or a Whisker Buscuit Wheat and a Hillside Strangler Stout might be nice.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Talk is cheap lets get on with it!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
I might try some catnip in the CSF jalapeno ale!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
A new little 5.9 about 60' pretty fun hard to get a good shot.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
don't ferget yer bike
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Second or third weekend in May? What do you mean? the second and third weekend in may
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
I mean both weekends do get yer drink on!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Sushi is for pussies! We need a pigfest
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
|
|
well, thanks ron, but this shin(sh#t?)dig wasnt my idea. im just a dude who can drink beer, ipa's preferably. anyways, set it up and i'll give chim a ride out there, if he's not on a "ride" by then already himself. focus: beer and smearing technique....
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|
Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
|
|
Is that Florey on Whisker Biscuit? Where was I? Tending to a newborn or something???
|
|
Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
|
|
Thanks guys! He's almost 5 months old now. Having not slept in 5 months, I wouldn't trust me to belay if I were you...
|
|
BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
|
|
Apr 10, 2013 - 11:23am PT
|
Hey guys if your serious about a pig roast up there lets do it.
I've been trying to do this for at least four springs and hasn't worked out.
Ill bring a pig if I can get a little help making up a pit. I'm getting married June 8 so that weekend is probably out. Hahahaha
Shawn
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|
BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
|
|
Apr 10, 2013 - 11:29am PT
|
May 11 or 25 may work for me. If it has to be on a weekend.
During the week?
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
|
|
Apr 10, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
|
Chim is doing a road trip some time. Need to see when he is tripping. Wont do it without him. Ill supply pig, beans, cooker, and grills. Just need tables beer etc
Ill donate this if everyone chips in a little toward chims guide cost. I don't want any money for my part.
Shawn
|
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
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|
Apr 10, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
|
Damn memorial weekend. Didn't realize that
Throw some other dates around and ill see if I can do some switching at work
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 10, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
|
June 8th should be good pigroast/ wedding reception hahaha
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 10, 2013 - 08:15pm PT
|
Someone put a calendar on the wall and throw a dart and that's it.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 10, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
|
That's not Ron, dummie. that's my wife and my girlfriend. I sent them on a beer run.
|
|
BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
|
|
Apr 11, 2013 - 11:55am PT
|
Well I'm seeing a lot of may 25ths. Dan you are the main man......I say you make the final call and we will make it happen. Sorry Kenny I think my bride to be would kill me if that would be our reception.
Shawn
Bring on the clowns though!!!!!
|
|
mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2013 - 03:34pm PT
|
Woody's Porkfest
I bet I could get them to cum
|
|
mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
|
Depends... will I need to bring a gun to ensure my safety?
Actually, it depends on when it happens. Got Utah and/or Squamish plans in the works. Might get married or something too... who knows.
|
|
mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
|
As long as safety is the number 1 priority.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
|
Woodfest-- may 25th sweet.
|
|
Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
|
Woodfest? Sounds like a bunch of horny old dudes hangin' out together... And when I say "hangin out", that's exactly what it sounds like...
(even after saying that I'm still hoping I'm invited) :)
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2013 - 09:13pm PT
|
New stuff in Cloudburst.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
|
Dan, it's one line, 3 bolts and some nat. pro., that's the second bolt from there you move left to the arête and protect a small crack. the crack lines in the other pics. are below on the way up to the orange wedge area and are pretty casual, Mark and I cleaned up 4 lines. I may have misunderstood there are two diff. lines in the pics.
|
|
portent
climber
|
|
|
Apr 13, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
|
Me too!! May 25th.
-Kovar
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 13, 2013 - 09:44pm PT
|
Hey Dan, you said orange wedge was in need of an anchor, So Mark and I took the liberty and hooked it up, hope that's o.k. It's a great route.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
|
No sweat Dan, I think that route will get done more often, at least I know we'll put on the circuit. all those routes climb very well.
|
|
mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
|
I've eyed that line, but never did it. Now I will. Thanks
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
|
the cracks on the lower wall are pretty easy 5.8 5.9 5.10 and the arête to the right of orange wedge is probably 5.12 it still needs some cleaning up high. future ascents should verify the grade I did some rehearsing of the crux when I was cleaning.
Wes, the routes on that wall are short but really fun.
|
|
mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
|
I did one on that wall that had anchors a couple years ago. Not very straight forward as far as following any line or seeing pro ahead of time, but fun. Belayed off a big rock in the creek... maybe slightly up canyon from OOTD wall? Will do more this summer.
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|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
|
sounds like d-cup and offwidth your panties I haven't done those yet we tried one day but it was brutally windy and we aborted.
|
|
Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
|
Kenny
Want to send it today ?....
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
|
Hey scott, It's a rest day for me give a call next week.
I've been scrubbing way to much lately
|
|
Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
|
Good man!!
I'll be back from Utah in two weeks
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
|
Scott, yesterday Spark led two 5.9s it was cool.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2013 - 12:14pm PT
|
Dan
I saw three cars at the Fortress yesterday, It had to be nuking up there!wanna head out to cloudburst with Mark and I when the weather clears?
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
|
I took a few friends up to Deadwood on Sat to get our offwidth and chimney on. It was windy but fairly warm. A thanks goes out to whoever extended the rap anchors at the top. Now a 70m gets you down with a few feet of rope to spare. Eventually I'll throw some long chains on to make a more permanent solution.
|
|
the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2013 - 12:35pm PT
|
thanks again for cleaning those things up!
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
|
there was a party out today checkin out the new stuff. cool pics Dave.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2013 - 10:40am PT
|
Chim Chim, i'll be in the IC, Castle Valley area Friday thru Monday.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2013 - 11:47am PT
|
Yeah a bunch of new routes up above the green tongue would be sweet! I need to get a case of wire brushes. have fun out there.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2013 - 09:44pm PT
|
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2013 - 11:50am PT
|
Those climbs look bullet, Kenny. I'll have to check them out now that the temps are right.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
|
Yeah Laine, check them out lower cloudburst canyon
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2013 - 12:35pm PT
|
Of course they're ready, I also did a new mixed route up above maybe .12a needs a second ascent! mark will get that this week.
|
|
Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2013 - 01:01pm PT
|
Thanks for cleaning those up, Kenny! Those cracks are fun. 3 star routes for sure! Would be four stars but too short... kinda like me.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
|
Moose, 1/2 gear 1/2 bolts more like a sport climb really.
Yeah Eric, that's the nature of that stuff short but good can't have everything I guess.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
|
we'll probably be around sun.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
|
pm me later in the week and we'll set up a time to meet. I can give you your nev/Utah slings and biners too
|
|
the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
|
chim chim on....guess the route!
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
|
Mohel
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
|
I don't think so Dan does it have the welded stopper?
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
|
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
|
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
|
Dan, I never got the woodcutters and mohel connection till now
We're heading out tomorrow should be there at about 10:30 if anyones in need. one of these days parking.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 27, 2013 - 11:13am PT
|
Anyone heading out today?
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 27, 2013 - 11:27am PT
|
I believe a Mohel is a Rabbi that performs circumcisions
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Apr 27, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
|
Dan, It's up higher I don't think that things going anywhere you climb around the left side of it. probably .11b or c have fun out there! it's getting hot here.
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Hitting the southside on Saturday. I'll try to check out your routes, Kenny.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Maybe we'll see you there, we usually get up there about ten.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Nah, How's it goin Dan?
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
I'm not feeling sorry for you. we climbed in cloudburst today mark and scott got to send my arête route, needful things. we did dcup that thing is really good. take care,kenny
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Who's heading up tomorrow?
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
To whom it may concern:
Was it really necessary to take my biner off the fixed nut I was using as a directional to scrub routes for everyone to climb? I guess thanks' for not stealing the nut also.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
NO biggie just a twenty year old biner but, WTF
|
|
the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
|
|
kenny, there was 2guys and 2gals with a speckled pup climbing there on our way out. the one guy said he had met u before, it was there when we left so i assume they thought it was booty(somefckinhow). anyway, hope they needed it. i got an extra biner but its only 12 years old.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
I'll just replace it with jebus's stuff I bootied off nev/Utah Ha! Dave yer biners to young fer me!
Jebus, I've had that stuff for like a year now.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
Just put up routes. If ya leave gear behind, it's good, everyone does it.
Not a sign of weakness, but progress~ Just means someone continued your route before u got back.
|
|
BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
|
Freaking kidding me.......it's been said in this thread before.
There is no booty up there......I you see gear left its there because someone is working a route. I know chim has left cams etc in obscure places for over a year with no one taking them. I left gear up there for months working Ativan Grin
I guess as the place gets more popular this is gonna happen.
By the way I piss on all my gear to mark it.
I agree with chim......screw the pig lets eat them.
Hahaha
Shawn
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
comment edited in fear of thread pollution. Blurring, thank you for your words of wisdom! I'll remember them always.
|
|
the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
|
|
real close chim...but i think it was a black sheep
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
That was a tame post for blurring he didn't call anyone a f*#king idiot or a commie, it may be coming though.
|
|
BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
|
Chim
Can I use that as our wedding cake topper?
I'm sure renada wouldn't mind........ ;)
|
|
BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
|
Moose
I guess I should have phrased that a little differently
Thanks for noticing.
Hahahaha
And beware when u fall asleep
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Hey Dan,
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
"stay thirsty my friends"
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
Jesus Kenny
Is that a fire ant trail?
You should throw a fixed line on it and send em to work!
Wait,,,,
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
they're hiding due to weather.
|
|
BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
|
Nice Kenny
Have you found the cleaning tools we left?
I think we can put about 6 ropes on that wall for fest day now.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
yeah, I saw them borrowed the prybar once.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
no snow here or as high as I can see.
|
|
Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
|
|
There was snow over Luther Pass, but nothing in woodfords... except fog and rain!
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Maybe after another 8 hours of gardening.
|
|
BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
|
Woodfords and gardening? Never.......
Maybe someone can bring their manscaping tools to finish that route.
|
|
the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
|
|
found some cheeb under a rock in a green container by the new routes, did they take that too?
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
just got 3 more hours of scrubbing in. raining Oregon style up there
Maybe someone can bring their manscaping tools to finish that route.
they could get a few biners, a rope and a couple stoppers
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Did a few routes on the lower tier in Cloudburst but I don't know the wall or the names. It was up and left a bit from High Energy Wall (I believe). Can't wait to get back on do more!
Any help on where we are?
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
The route with the bolt is 5.9 the corner is orange wedge I think .10b
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Gotcha. Thanks for the beta, Kenny. Kinda neat not knowing the ratings and just climbing them.
There looked to be another thin crack with anchors in between them and some nice looking cracks a little bit below the orange corner. All in that same 9-10 range. Would you agree?
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Really good climb, Dan. Slick feet gaining the crack then a perfect splitter to the top. A nice warm up climb. Heading back Saturday to check out some of the upper tiers. Any suggestions?
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
laine, we'll be at the upper tier sat. I'm cleaning a new route, were you up last weekend?
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Yea, I think I waved to you as you were leaving the parking area. Not sure. I'll look for you up there next time.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
that was me sorry I didn't recognize you, we only met once briefly
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
yeah the direct seemed to be the obvious line.
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Awesome. Can't wait to give 'em a go.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
May 13, 2013 - 09:48am PT
|
Dan you still going out today?
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
May 13, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
|
Dan - after climbing Tall people reach, Short people climb 2x, I'd have to say it's definitely not whimpy for "taller" people (I'm 5 11 on a good day). That 10 foot finger section above the bolt is stout for a 5.9. It does make a nice initial pitch to access the upper tier. I thought Ativan's and that new 10c on the upper where stellar though. Props to Kenny for his 13+ hours of scrubbing on that one, it was worth it!
Great work, gents!
|
|
BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
|
|
May 13, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
|
Thanks Laine in regards to Ativan Grin.
She was my baby for many a hanging days cleaning that one
Shawn
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
May 13, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
|
Hard to believe it was once so dirty. Just goes to show we can all clean up well with a bit of effort (well maybe not everyone)...
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
May 13, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
|
went up today and removed the rest of the questionable stuff on the new route on the upper tier (Dr. sleep) it's good to go! take doubles of small to med stoppers and camalots to #3 and tie a not in your 70 meter it doesn't make it down!
good to see you out there Laine.
|
|
Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
|
|
|
May 13, 2013 - 09:53pm PT
|
|
|
Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
|
|
|
May 13, 2013 - 09:59pm PT
|
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
May 13, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
|
Total effing choss!
|
|
Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
|
|
|
May 13, 2013 - 10:15pm PT
|
word
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
May 13, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
|
Goldenshower 5.12
|
|
Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
|
|
|
May 13, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
|
I hope one day to be able to climb cracks as well as Mark. One hell of a nice guy!
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
May 14, 2013 - 05:26pm PT
|
we got rained out
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
May 15, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
|
Dan are you going out tomorrow?
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
May 16, 2013 - 04:49pm PT
|
The mountain project topo was just a promotional teaser for the Fest. I have one with names and grades as well. Fill in the blank as needed.
Edit - updated per Kenny's comments
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
May 16, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
|
Laine, the route on the upper tier arête (unknown) is The dark half.11b/c and there's a route between Ativan and dr sleep 11b forget the name and the route labeled goldenshower is actually needful things .11d/.12a
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
May 16, 2013 - 05:12pm PT
|
Kenny - what are the names of the 3 climbs in the smaller picture?
|
|
BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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May 16, 2013 - 05:13pm PT
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Nice topo guys!!!!!!
Just finishing up the pig box today........
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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May 16, 2013 - 05:16pm PT
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Laine, I don't know yet, good work though.
cool Shawn it's creepin up.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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May 16, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
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Bill, Where u at?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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May 17, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
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hopefully so.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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May 17, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
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get on dr.Sleep 2nd ascent woo hoo
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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May 17, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
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dan, I did some final choss removal up high and some more brushwork, but they are still "pristine" tons of of small gear placements available up there.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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May 17, 2013 - 08:42pm PT
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Ron Anderson owes me one bolt and a hanger! LOL
STAINLESS
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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May 17, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
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I didn't
now I did
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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May 17, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
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went up there today w dango. not a soul!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
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May 18, 2013 - 12:07am PT
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Drive-by circa 4pm today (note huge ass boulder in right foreground, and shapely ridges)
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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May 18, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
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I'm all good on bolts and hangers, I hope someone says that thing is .11+ but I'm stickin with .11a fer now. just my opinion, it's still a fun little route.
Send some good thoughts out to Gdavis.
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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May 21, 2013 - 11:24am PT
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ive got a bouldering pad you can use ...
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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May 21, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
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please repost I missed it
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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May 21, 2013 - 02:10pm PT
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Dan did you finish the route you were working on?Any of you homos climbing on Monday?
maybe,look for the pink lycra
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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May 21, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
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when I saw the bouldering pad comment I thought I had started something with the lza rating opinion,phew
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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May 21, 2013 - 05:20pm PT
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Dan.
Ill meet you up there Friday. Have to set up camp first but maybe a climb or two after
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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May 21, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
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It depends, I'm going to try and get up to stormtroopers have you been on that at all? I'm wondering about those pins they're over thirty years old.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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May 21, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
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I was just talking to Paul C. he said pound those f*#king things outta there and do it clean!
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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May 21, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
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Dan
No pooches for the fest. Ill have my stealth camping trailer so I should be good
I plan on backing into that spot and setting up some shade and getting the pit ready. Give me a call when you can to go over a few things
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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May 22, 2013 - 10:03am PT
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Dan r u guys goin up today?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 30, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
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Yo - anyone find a #1 c4 at the upper tier near Cartwheel? It was a red biner with camo tape on it. I think I forgot it last Sunday. Hit me up if you found it. See you up there!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 31, 2013 - 01:01pm PT
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Score. I'm thinking of chasing the shade on Sunday down there if you are around. I still gotta send Dr. Sleep.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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May 31, 2013 - 09:25pm PT
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dan, where were you guy's?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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May 31, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
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I still gotta send Dr. Sleep. better get the dark half and needful things while yer at it.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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I'll try to catch up with you guy's then.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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dan, we're heading out tomorrow at 10:00
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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that was scott thelen, unless youre talking about the pitch above the arête with 4 bolts then that was me. give me a call when u get a chance.
Is thunderhead buttress left and above cartwheel?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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BBST
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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^I'll never tell.^
nada. hopefully getting out tomorrow
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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dan t.r. that thing with the fixed rope next to Marks route, see what u think.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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see u then.
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Blizzard
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Jun 10, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
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hello woodfords climbers,
I went to woodfords this weekend and climbed in cloudburst canyon. i got on some routes and went on mtn project to see what I climbed. (Thanks laine for the topo and all the guys who put up routes). Anyways i saw i climbed tall people reach and short people climb and a crack to the left of it that wasnt included in the topo but shared the same anchor. it was fun and felt like 5.9. just wondering if u guys know the grade and name?
Thanks,
Bruce
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jun 10, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
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Probably .9 don't know the name, Dan will. Think we saw you guy's we were working on new routes at ootd buttress.
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Blizzard
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Jun 10, 2013 - 12:40pm PT
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Yeah i saw u too and was wondering what you guys were working on? it looks sweet and probably too hard for me. i also was wondering about the route to the right of tall people... that had a quickdraw with a locker and a yellow sling at the anchor. it looked like fun and was also not in laine's topo.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jun 10, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
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that's 5.7 or 8 to the right of that is a nice 5.9 and a .10b/c. 40 feet to the left of short people are 3 short 5.8/9 things
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jun 10, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
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Bruce, checkout the stuff above that as well.
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Blizzard
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Jun 10, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
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Definately I can't wait to get out to woodfords again and climb new stuff. Thanks for the hard work and information.
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JustThatEasy
climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Jun 10, 2013 - 02:46pm PT
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Dan,
I have your hardware and the battery charger for the drill at my house. Swing by and grab it from my side room if you need it.
Ryan
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jun 10, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
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Ryan r u in town?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jun 10, 2013 - 11:29pm PT
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gots to work, have fun
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JustThatEasy
climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Jun 10, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
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I'm out in Oklahoma until later this week. I'd love to be home in Tahoe, especially considering it was over 100 degrees here today.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jun 11, 2013 - 12:21am PT
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Thanks Dan. I'll be okay for now. Let me know what you hear. Looks good Kenny.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jun 11, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
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You mean left of tall people? down in the hole? small gear to a ledge then dirty hands to the anchor? If so, happy birthday. I put those there so the line would be independent of the other two and the move to the other anchor was not very satisfying.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jun 11, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
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Excellent.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Jun 12, 2013 - 12:52am PT
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i definitely have to get to woodfords. looks awesome. any of you g-ville/minden/woodfords folks know if the private subdivision off foothill road (i think it was called sheridan ranch before the crash) is still private? it offers the easiest access to Jobs but looking at google maps there appears to be some good stuff just uphill (less than half mile) of their water tower.
At least if those are Jeffrey Pines and not scrub pines all around
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jun 12, 2013 - 04:22pm PT
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tons of granite in that jobs peak area I too need to get out there.
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Blizzard
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Jun 12, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
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hey ron,
I'm interested in climbing Jobs Sister and would like to climb your route. How is the rock quality on the N face of Jobs Sister? How would you describe the nature of the route(so if i went there i could maybe find it)? I bet it's been a while since you climbed it but any info would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bruce
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
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Anybody hitting Cloud Burst tomorrow, thursday?
I'm thinking about it.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jun 14, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
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Hey Dan if you are working at the gear shop tomorrow morning, I'll be in south lake and can swing by and grab that mug. We are backpacking in desolation this weekend. I'm gonna look for some nice problems up around Dicks lake
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jun 16, 2013 - 07:36pm PT
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Dan, took the fam. camping this weekend
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Jun 17, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
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Laine,
Where did you go backpacking? I hiked from Wrights Lake to Emerald Bay over Rockbound Pass and past Lake Schmidell on Saturday (18 miles total).
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jun 18, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
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Hey Friedo - that sounds really fun, I've never been to Wright's Lake. We went out to Dick's Lake. Though it was too windy to swim we found several fun boulder problems along the way.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jun 18, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
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Too much rock out there to comprehend. The stuff way above the south side of Eagle lake looks really. As does the stuff to the north. Anyone know of any activity done up there?
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Jun 18, 2013 - 05:50pm PT
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Laine,
Looks awesome! I've camped at Dicks Lake a couple of times. Some good rock out there. You should check out the wrights Lake area sometime. Great climbing in the South Tahoe guidebook. Amazing hiking and swimming galore!!!
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Jun 18, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
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Jebus,
Is The Mohel that 10d roof to finger crack on the east facing wall of Woodcutters? That thing is AWESOME!!!
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Jun 19, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
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I really enjoy The Left Seam on Woodcutters as well. I'd take a couple hundred feet of that any day!!!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
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Hey Woodford fans,
Short notice but anybody interested in exploring these beauties tomorrow, fri...
They are way above Cloudburst Canyon, 1000 feet or so. I know the way that's a pretty mellow approach. Good cv workout though, too.
I'd like to throw down a toprope on a couple of these towers to see how this very hard conglomerate climbs. That's the interest.
Want to come along? Early morning start, I imagine.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jun 20, 2013 - 02:35pm PT
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Foot- just make sure everything you do is ground up, barefoot and blindfolded
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jun 21, 2013 - 07:05pm PT
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Anyone gonna be southside this Sunday??? If so, see ya there!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
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Hey cragsters, saw a Woodfords bear this morning...
Silent as a mountain oyster, I was able to watch her a whole minute or so before she sensed something was up.
In these here parts...
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jul 19, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
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Where is the basalt area? Looks inviting.
Shawn
Dan
When are you back in Tahoe. Have a little pig cash for ya
Shawn
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Jul 19, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
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Looks amazing Dan!
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jul 19, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
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WOW..........
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
California
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Jul 20, 2013 - 12:17am PT
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Besides eagle lake or the leap, are there other good crags or bouldering areas around Tahoe for this heat?
I'm over it. It's too hot.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2013 - 11:22am PT
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chim,
Burn, it's in the backcountry off Ebbet's Pass. A 4.25 mile approach with a 1900 foot altitude gain, luckily mostly on trail.
Looks very interesting, and sounds very interesting, can you post a google map with location please. Thanks.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jul 20, 2013 - 12:31pm PT
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Chim-chim, and czar,
Looks cool!!, I have hiked and skied over most of that area have not seen that. Looks sort of like Henry Peak but more solid, but I have not been even there for years. I guess it is south of pass along the crest. I would love to go there if you you post or PM directions that would be cool. Be glad to haul in some gear for you.
Cheers
Jeff
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JustThatEasy
climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Jul 20, 2013 - 03:28pm PT
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Somethings just need to fly slightly below the radar....
If you'd like directions feel free to email me.
Ryan
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jul 20, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
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Thanks- I think I met Woodsfords local at Bear- he was doing a class for MAS, but I forgot his name. I would guess he would know most of you. I think he lives in Minden and has worked for MAS for the 8 years. But he looked like a kid to me.
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JustThatEasy
climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Jul 22, 2013 - 01:35am PT
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Yeah Dan, I dream about the Yos backcountry! I'd love to hit up the Basalt, too. That photo of you on Shoulder Country got me all fired up. I'll be in town from August 5th - 11th. Maybe we could get a day or two in then.
In the mean time keep putting up routes! I'm psyched to get up there and try 'em.
Ryan
Tell Dave he should post up those pics again, will ya? It keeps me going when I'm stuck in places like El Centro, CA in July.
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Nkane
Trad climber
San Francisco, USA
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Jul 22, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
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Hey, Dan, I was one member of the "nice S.F. couple" back on the 14th. Great to meet you, and thanks for the great beta and awesome routes!
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Aug 14, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
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A few of my buddies were out at Woodfords this weekend and snapped a few photos. Pretty sick looking rock! Motivates me to make a visit!
Name this route!
Photos by Adam Sheer.
Anyone know who did the FA of the above route? Has it seen many ascents? My friends raved about it.
Could someone write me up a list of the best woodfords cracks in the 11c->13a range?
I saw a few up thread: Goldenshower, Center Route.
Thanks!
 Luke
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Aug 14, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
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Fast response!
I think its 11c for the first pitch 12c for the second according to Chim-Chim's guide and my friend's experience.
Do you know where Goldenshowers is located?
Any other suggestins for good 12's to get on?
Luke
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sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
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Aug 15, 2013 - 12:34am PT
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Heh, there are many routes in the grade range that you would like know about. Golden shower is located upstream from King Diamond Wall, drop into the drainage above the sandy approach to OOTD follow the left side of the creek past a recent rock fall, just before the bend left start at a slab-crack system, 5.7 decent pro, that lies below an obvious west-facing crack (not easily seen from below) overhanging hands and wider lead to a crux and anchor. Sash
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2013 - 12:41am PT
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Wow,
those are awesome shots, Luke!
Thanks for posting those!!
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sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
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Aug 15, 2013 - 01:01am PT
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whats recon?
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sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
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Aug 15, 2013 - 01:35am PT
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 15, 2013 - 02:05am PT
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Oh jesus! Thank god it's harder than the Anderson guide suggests. I was thinking the whole time I'm really out of shape.
We were out there a few weeks ago and I got on Power Surge. I lead the first pitch and thought it was solid for .11c. Awkward but strait forward. The second pitch my partner started and gave up quickly on the overhanging fingers crack. I took over and thought the steep section was solid of .11c, the traverse was easy .10 or .9 but that upper flairing crack was a total sumbitch above. I struggled and fought, cussed and ran out of gear, you name it. With lichen filled eyes I squeaked out the onsight but it was definately one of the hardest won battles I've done in a while. Besides Basket Case, that was worse.
I wouldn't call it .12c though. .12a/b tops ;)
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Aug 15, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
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Cool!
My friends went and cleaned up the top of Powersurge so that should help. No Lichen in the face.
Nice work with the OS. Chad I think you are stronger than you know :-D
How about a TR from Basket Case. I have been waiting for Alexy to write it up.
Sasha, no photo shop, Ben just really digs the bat hangs. I'm sure there are tons of routes up there. I really need to make a trip!
If you want to see more photos check out my friend Adam's blog:
http://climbinghouse.com/2013/08/bathanging-at-woodfords.html
He shot the photos from above.
Luke
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alltalk
climber
Berkeley
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Aug 15, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
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Agreed about the impressive onsight Salamanizer. After we cleaned up the upper headwall, it looked more promising, but even 2nd attempt I still got whooped. Definitely one of the most fun routes I've done, and with more traffic to get rid of the remaining grit it'll be a classic. Thanks to whoever put the nice shiny chains at the top.
Sasha or Chim Chim, do you happen to know the names/grades of the routes around left of golden showers? When we were out there this weekend we thought we'd stumbled upon FA gold until we noticed the chains at the top... GS looks amazing and steep!!!
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Aug 15, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
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That name alone could change the way I feel about offwidths.
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alltalk
climber
Berkeley
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Aug 15, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
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chim chim, have you heard of any one checking out the stuff on the next terrace above cloud walker? It looks like some potential lines up there, but I'm not sure how you'd get up there. Maybe adventure pitch up the stuff to the left of the rock scar?
Or am I thinking cloud walker is a different route? I saw something with shiny chains up hill (east of the rock scar) in a narrow gully opposite a really clean looking corner crack and a sport bolted face. These two climbs were especially on the backside of the OOTDs feature.
Either way, if you have names grades for any of those routes it'd be much appreciated. I love to explore up there and knowing what's been done is always helpful.
Casey
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alltalk
climber
Berkeley
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Aug 15, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
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Ron,
I'm thirsting for new routes and willing to bushwhack, but it's be nice to know where to concentrate my efforts! Please point the way! Your topo of high energy area indicates that there is a nice wall on the back side facing westish. Any more info?!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Aug 15, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
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Stand in the middle of Hwy 88 and spin around till you are dizzy, then stop and hike in the direction you are facing and I promise you will find your climb.
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alltalk
climber
Berkeley
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Aug 15, 2013 - 02:26pm PT
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Ron and Laine thanks for the info! Unfortunately (or fortunately) I'll be in Spain for the fall betraying my inner tradie by clipping evil bolts under the Mediterranean sun. But I'll definitely pass on the info and continue my quest when I return in January.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Aug 15, 2013 - 03:00pm PT
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mantener a España negrita!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 15, 2013 - 05:20pm PT
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Stand in the middle of Hwy 88 and spin around till you are dizzy, then stop and hike in the direction you are facing and I promise you will find your climb.
That is how I feel every time I enter the canyon. That place is rather confusing.
The onsight of Power surge wasn't that impressive. Rather, it was pretty grim. If I'd have known it was harder than .11c I'd have given up and not allow my ego to propel me further up that crunch fest. It was the second route of the day. Afterward, I sat in the shade feeling like I just got worked in an offwidth, drank a beer and was done for the day.
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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Aug 23, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
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Bottomfeeder, chim chim rising out of the filth... photo by d.clock.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Aug 23, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
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FInally got that climb cleaned up, eh? Nice work.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Aug 24, 2013 - 06:14pm PT
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It was smokey there today! but fun climbing none the less
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Aug 28, 2013 - 09:42am PT
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Dan, climbing this weekend? I hear the smoke may clear
chim chim, have you heard of any one checking out the stuff on the next terrace above cloud walker?
there are three sets of anchors and Scott Thelen started cleaning them
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Aug 28, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
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I'm planning on getting out to the Fords one day this weekend. Hope to see all your smiling faces.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Anybody down to climb tomorrow at the fords???
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Sweet I'll probably tie in with you guys if that's okay
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portent
Social climber
your mom's house
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Where will you guys be climbing? Off chance I may make it down there tomorrow.
edit: saw that, woodfest site...
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
|
Kenny,
Sounds like you've been getting out.
Good to hear!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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Great climbing with ya guys today despite the smoke, Kenny and Andre.
Scott, how'd those climbs go down? They look great from afar.
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
|
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One new route Nose Bleeds 11c 6 bolts gear to 2"
I'm trying to clean up a few more
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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Cool, Scott. Nice send! I'll be down there Friday. Might do some scrubbing if no one's around.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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c4s .3 through #2 320.00 almost new.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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yeah Ron up to Eugene. hopefully some decent climbing around there not winter though, but trout creek and smith are a pretty short drive.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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yes, a long time we have family there and want to try something different. Trees vs. sagebrush, rain vs. wind and dust.lol
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Thanks Dan, I'll see you up there before I go
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Sad to hear you're leaving, Kenny. I just got to know ya. You've set some great routes, my friend. You will be missed. Best of luck in Eugene!
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
|
|
Sad to see you go Kenny! I was looking forward to climbing with you some more...That is, when I have more time to climb. Good luck in the OR! Stay in touch!!!
-Eric
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
we'll just have to plan our climbing outings a little more precisely fellas
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
|
Sorry to hear your leaving Kenny. As others have already said.....thanks for everything you've done for the area. Good luck up there!!!!
Shawn
For Woodfest 2014 I'm just bringing a generator and microwave to reheat leftovers from 2013!!!!!!!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
I'll be around for a while hope to see you guy's.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
|
|
Was up there yesterday. First route was on bandit crag. I think it was break in security. It was a fun easy route. Then went up to deadmans and the rock there on 'of coarse' and 'corner solution' was crappy. Then climbed a undeveloped bat sh#t loaded pile up and to the right of ootd parking. What is the furthest right set of anchor on one of these days buttress. Kind of roofs out with one bolt above the mini roof on the thin face. Started to lead it but was worried about leaving gear once I got up there.
Also, anyone lose a pair of shades on the trail heading up from the parking to the (or past) the bat sh#t loaded pile mentioned above? Reply to identify
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Bummed to hear you didn't like corner solution. I feel it is way better than those over-bolted routes on bandit crag. Next time try Rebirth and Off width out you, really solid rock. Happy crushing.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
|
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Yes they were sunclouds. Text or call me at 530 318-4384 to arrange getting them
And I meant the cliffs just up and right of the road entrance to ootd. No anchors or belay stations or cleaning done.
And I didn't lead corner solution. My friend (who is much better than me) did but I think she needed to get up higher to get to better rock. She seemed to be having a bad day though.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
What is the furthest right set of anchor on one of these days buttress 11+ mark Bauer and I put up that route a few months back no name as of yet
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Dan, I don't think I'll get out till next weekend I'd like to see you guy's though.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Gumby- yea the quality down low is chossy, but up high the jams are great on CS. Of Coarse is chossy till you reach the S crack (as the name implies). Glad you guys checked it out.
Dan n Kenny - I've got a new climb in the works up left of the Green Tongue. Scrubbed and pulled loose blocks for 4 hours yesterday. Might head back today to work a bit more. I think it's gonna be a good one. Steep thru roofs with great jamming and 3 variations to the chains. I also scoped Scott's lines, they look good.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
yeah Laine I thought those would be good. about forty feet left of G.T. right? then left of that on the light colored wall looks good.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Yup, that's its. Has a similar feel to ootd.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
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|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
|
Those pictures are awesome, just look what I've been missing!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Thanks guys. Spent another day scrubbing and rope soloed the route. I'd say it clocks in at a mellow 5.10. Steep but with good jams and rests. Pro to #2 with a set of nuts will do. Enjoy!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Thanks Jebus- I'm not sure but I think you were on the 5.11 just right of Dr. Sleep. Dr. Sleep only has 1 bolt then traverse left under a roof to the chains.
|
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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Next time do cartwheel and numb bunion, Zach. Those are my 2 faves up there.
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
|
|
Going back up on tues. Maybe work on the Orange Face.
|
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Scott, do you approach your climbs from the top? I soloed some 5th class vegetation BS to get to them and then over to the top of the green tongue wall. It was a sketchy adventurous thrashfest with a pig in tow. Not gonna do that again.
|
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
|
|
Going in from the top sucks just as bad.
It's time for cloud walker to get bolted or the climb to the left needs to get cleaned and climbed. That would be the best approach.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
|
I finally have a little time off Tues-Thurs and if I can hook up with chim we could bolt up cloud walker.
Hows yours schedule Chim?
Shawn
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
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Ron Ill use some just for you......with a little pig juice on em.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
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Ron
Married life is great. She puts up with my sh#t so I cant complain. Loves to rock and ice climb and loves to go rockhounding with me so I cant complain. If you have any secret rockhounding spots Im all ears.
I do wish I could stop her from her bad habit of buying purses and shoes though.........although she is turning into a gear whore as well.......but it has to match!!!!!!!!! ahahahhah all biners have to match etc.
Shes great
Shawn
Damn phone turns the pics????? Wtf
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
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Never heard of it. PM me if its secret Looking for anything
This is what I'm working on now
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
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Chim. It's a date. I'll bring all the hardware (a couple of Ron's as sacrifice to the woodford gods)
Let me know time.....you need chains?
Shawn
|
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Is this the 5.5 next to GT?
Saw a few nice looking climbs. Anyone know the names and ratings (I bet ya do)?
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
|
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5.9's laine. the corner is stout.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
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Sep 11, 2013 - 01:14am PT
|
The 5.5 is just to the right of the vegitation/crap. There are two rap bolts for the anchor and you can walk to the right to get onto the ledge. It's a little dicey though per Dan.
Cloud walker is now bolted for lead per Dan and I.
Has its own anchors, 11 bolts,and its freaking stout.
It's an amazing route that takes strength on crimpers, a hell of a lot of good footwork, and figuring out a very specific sequence.
All of which I failed.........
But the bolts went in easily!!!!!!!
Enjoy.
Shawn
Dan Thanks for waiting for me to help bolt this great route
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
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|
Sep 11, 2013 - 07:28pm PT
|
It's been on my list or some time. Say, when i come, can i comfortize a few routes? Double bolt belays add convenience and saftey and a few bolts per pitch will allow visiting climbers to bring smaller racks....especially nice if they are flying. The airlines are getting fussy about baggage.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
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|
Sep 11, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
|
Oh goddie! I'm already sneezing in anticipation of that fine granite dust wafting from the drill bit up into my nostrils.
Next late spring.....heading to China on 9/24 and that will eat up a lot of this season.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
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|
Sep 11, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
|
Pamper me Ron, i know it's crack climbing but the the Euro in me wants to brighten up gloomy looking cracks by putting some shiny bolts next to them....kind of like lights on a christmass tree.
See you there next year!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 16, 2013 - 10:07am PT
|
Dan, I'll give you all the stainless bolts and hangers for cloudwalker if you'd like I have more than I'll ever use. let me know
kenny
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2013 - 11:15am PT
|
Kenny, good luck in Oregon!
We'll miss you at Woodfords and beyond!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 16, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
|
Thanks Bill.
Dan I take that back I just walked the dogs up there and saw the route was completed. cool nice work
kenny
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 16, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
|
I'll check it out this week.
|
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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|
Sep 21, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
|
Anyone rallying at woodfords tomorrow?
|
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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|
Sep 22, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
|
Sweet I'm gonna meet you guys down there. Bring that mug I left at woodfest if possible.
|
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
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|
Sep 22, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
|
Chim
Where you heading in the am? May be able to offer my belaying skills
Shawn
|
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
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|
Sep 22, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
|
Right you are Ron.....rating isn't easy. Which is exactly why the rating of the first acsentionist should be taken as a starting point but the final rating should be by consensus.
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 22, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
|
Moose, don't forget Griff.
does anyone want to climb mon. or tues.?
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 22, 2013 - 07:15pm PT
|
Hi Ron.
|
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
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|
Sep 22, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
|
See you guys at Woodfords next late Spring.
Leave for China on Tuesday....whoot, whoot!
|
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
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|
Sep 22, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
|
9am it is at cloudburst..............
Shawn
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 22, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
|
see you guys up there I'll be there around ten
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 23, 2013 - 09:40am PT
|
Hey moose, the route is Dr. Sleep. all of the routes on that wall are pretty stellar. have fun this week.
|
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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|
Sep 23, 2013 - 01:58pm PT
|
Wish I would have seen your whipper, Moose. Great job finishing her up!
|
|
BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
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|
Sep 23, 2013 - 11:00pm PT
|
Moose tearing up my first route. Wish I could've seen it. Hahaha. Glad your ok
Great day today at the wood. Cold hot cold hot. Woodfords fall.
Shawn
|
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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|
Sep 25, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
|
Yea, apparently Moose feels it's okay to chip routes... with his bare hands.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 25, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
|
who stole the anchor biners is the real question
Anybody up for a Friday session? time is running out for that side of the cyn.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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Sep 25, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
|
maybe I'll do that if I can find them.
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 25, 2013 - 07:47pm PT
|
did you do the route to the left with the two bolts?
that Moosedrool is scary badass
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 25, 2013 - 07:50pm PT
|
that ones pretty good huh
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 25, 2013 - 07:53pm PT
|
how about left of that one Dr. Sleep? more than 35m
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 25, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
|
O.K then I will make sure the route to the rt. route has biners for your lowering convenience.
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 25, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
|
I will be here by then
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 25, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
|
maybe I'll see you there.
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 25, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
|
I think it's like around here spring and fall are best but if the suns out in winter yer good to go. there are some bird closures at some point.
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Sep 26, 2013 - 11:07am PT
|
Dan, If all goes well I'll be back down next summer for a little work and climbing.
|
|
the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
|
|
|
Sep 26, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
|
Dang! I thought it was snowing up there, glad to hear ur all still climbing. Cdhainm, anybody get on into the groove yet? Better stretch your feet out�� Well, back to my honeymoon on the island, just hiked diamond head w about a thousand other people, wtf! Nice views but the hike wad too easy for a guy like me ��. stay loose kids!
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
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Sep 26, 2013 - 04:50pm PT
|
Ron
It's all about location....where is that?
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 26, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
|
he will never tell
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 26, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
|
Dan, I was just up above Ativan grin to liberate your rap biners and place them on said climb and those are gone too. did you go up and get those? I'll grab some of mine and put them on Ativan.
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 26, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
|
the biners aren't really a necessity but they're nice and with the amount of traffic those routes see they should last for years. all of the routes at true value have fixed biners at the anchors and no one has ever stole one of those. f#$%^*n trad climbers!
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
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Sep 26, 2013 - 05:41pm PT
|
Screw it then. Just leave the chains......until those get stolen.
Ron
Your a tease.....If there is rockhounding around that area at least let me look.
Shawn
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 26, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
|
anyone want to climb in cloudburst tomorrow?
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Sep 27, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
|
Dan, I ended up with an extra #1 camalot the other day.are you in contact with the guy we climbed with Brian I think? it's probably his.
|
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
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|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
|
Kenny, tell me again...
On the good granite in Woodfords, your preferred depth for anchor bolts, all things considered, is 2" and 1/4, or 3" length?
Put differently, are your anchor bolts at Woodfords in good granite sometimes (or always) 2 and a quarter?
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
|
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|
Sep 28, 2013 - 03:46am PT
|
por que? footloose.
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 28, 2013 - 10:43am PT
|
Bill, most the stuff I've put in are 3" If your using a power drill go deep baby.
|
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
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|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2013 - 09:55am PT
|
Kenny, thanks for the feedback.
We went with the three inch, the additional depth
gives a way better feeling.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 30, 2013 - 10:36am PT
|
Dan, are there some new anchors up there?
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 30, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
|
Moose, are you missing a #1 camalot? one ended up on my gear sling and I don't think I put it there.let me know
Kenny
Footloose, nice hangers u got there!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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|
Sep 30, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
|
My bad, Dan. I've lowered off many a shut before without thinking twice. But I have many stainless hangers so I'll replace them this weekend.
|
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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|
Sep 30, 2013 - 05:46pm PT
|
Dan - glad to hear you got on the route. I start just left of the huge broken left-facing corner below the first roof, climb directly up and traverse left at the horizontal that tops the finger crack. From there, up the left arête to the anchors. Didn't look at the face option that avoids the scramble up to the start but it's probably a nice variation.
I agree there's still some looseness in the middle of the climb but it is easy to avoid with great pro I didn't want to get into that house of cards. I think all the death blocks have been removed.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
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|
Sep 30, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
|
Ok moose,
What suggestions for next years woodfest do you have?
I know woodfest was kinda put together hastily.
Maybe some sponsors? Hahaha
And that was my route you destroyed......I'm gonna sick Renada on you for that!!!
Shawn
|
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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|
Sep 30, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
|
I think it's even better now.
|
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Hey thanks, Dan, means a lot. Hopefully see you gents out there this weekend.
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
Not closed :)
|
|
BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
|
Ron
I will continue to have PIG/Woodfest every year as long as interest continues. Ill try and get Foghat or some other classic band to play to livin it up a little ;)
|
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Kenny - finally lead Dr. Sleep. Was able to get a 0.4 just below the bolt but still clipped it. Glad I did, the next placement under the roof is quite a ways above it. Total thought provoking placements the whole way.
Dan - we also did Long Arm. Might be the best climb up there??? The partners and I all loved it. Great crack at the start with thin, balancey moves for the entire top half all the way to the chains. Super fun.
The top tier is top notch.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Awesome. Rico and myself will be down in red rocks this Thursday thru next Tuesday to climb with some friends. Hit me up if you wanna meet up.
775-848-2622
|
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
I've been spending some time up at Babylon Crag lately. Great lines, plenty of potential, and not a single other person. Definitely stoked for some cold weather scending at the fords though. Dan - I'd love to get a look at the topo of your fortress climbs. Those gems will probably keep me busy all winter.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Dan - I've never been able to figure that topo out. Where does Weak Stick start as a point of reference?
Babylon is good. Dirty but bullet rock with plenty of corners and splitters and slab. I have a picture topo I can send you but am wary to post it up for fear of the hordes "discovering" this historic stone. ;)
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Hence the quotes, Ron. Much has been added/upgraded since then.
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Damn you and your big words, Jeebus! Manzanita is not that bad - kudos to whomever took the time to cut out a decent trail. I did 4 routes there last weekend, 3 of which are not in the guide book, all of which were stellar. Okay, enough thread drift.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
The trail getting there is nonexistant. But around the base they've done a decent job. But that's just a sign of solitude. Did your friends put up those climbs on the upper south side of the wall? I did a 5.10+ up there that was amazing (but dirty). Double hand cracks to a steep single handcrack on a detached pinnacle thru a roof to flaring fingers. There's a chminey climb right next to it. Very cool stuff.
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|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Not yet but it's on the list along with Helping Hands.
|
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Yea Dan Seeliger has a great eye for new climbs. I guess when you own a refuge larger than Yose with massive walls, you get good at that kinda stuff. Not sure if he scrubbed PCT crack as well but it wouldn't suprise me. Dude really puts in the effort.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Dan, we had a sport day at true value.
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|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
Dan, I'm out of town but will be back sat. afternoon, I have plenty of hardware.
|
|
Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2013 - 11:39am PT
|
Yeah, let's not forget True Value Crag in the shadow of Woodfords.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/true-value-crag/106764604
Big kudos to Kenny for its development pretty much single-handedly over the years.
Moose, I'll try to post a couple pics.
P.S. I won't soon forget your pulling strength on Bury the Hatchet, mighty drools!
A Woodfords shot, in the glory of our indian summer...
I look forward to burying the hatchet soon. ;)
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|
i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
|
|
will do. probably be back later to ask what we climbed
|
|
mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
|
|
During Hot summer days a great swimming hole right by True Value Crag. Have been swimming there the last 30 years or so.
|
|
i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
|
|
Britney taking a nap on the Perfect Lieback
Nick leading Whisker Biscuit
Britney on Whisker Biscuit
Britney on Koya the Destroya (sp?)
we then did I be jammin' which i think should be called I suck at jammin'.
great climbing and great weather though
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Nov 10, 2013 - 11:12am PT
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that's what Nick was telling us. Was good to have someone with us that knew the place. Even so, I'm still gonna chip in some holds and retro bolt I Be Jammin before I rename it I Suck at Jammin. ;)
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Nov 11, 2013 - 10:16am PT
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Nice to see everyone getting up the canyon enjoying the great weather.
Planned on getting up there this weekend myself but Mr cold virus decided he was
A better climber than me .
Shawn aka "sniffling, sneezing, coughing so I can't cant rest and climb guy"
Dan I needed your woodford elderberry!!!!!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Nov 12, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
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Glad we ran into ya, Dan. I feel I got a good handle on Wood Hood now. What a stellar wall! Yellow Fin is on the list for later in the week. One in my group took a nice little fall on Inside Out in the chimney section. Those are some tricky moves in there. Good stuff all around.
Question, can you rap Y.F. or walk off?
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Nov 14, 2013 - 01:44am PT
|
I'd be down for either or both, although saturday is my daughter's birthday party and i'm not sure what my involvement will be during the day.
and then there's this.
http://www.aboutlaketahoe.com/climbing/woodfords.htm
it's obviously a work under construction. i will in the future be separating it at least into a summer and winter side, with further subdivisions possible. just want to ensure that everything there is accurate.
as soon as a woodfords guide is available, i'll be happy to promote it. not looking for any kickbacks, just want to get people enjoying the beauty of outside.
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bergbryce
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Nov 14, 2013 - 01:53am PT
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anyone climbing there tomorrow? (thursday)
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Nov 16, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
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How far is true value crag from the road? In terms of; do i need to worry about the dogs constantly running out onto the hwy?
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Nov 16, 2013 - 01:12pm PT
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Across the river from the road, dogs should be okay.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Nov 16, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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Sh#t, I must be retarded. So that means you're not gonna be there tomorrow at 10:30?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Nov 16, 2013 - 11:04pm PT
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Yes, I will be there tomorrow too. lol
i'm only driving thru, but hoping to snap a pic or 2.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Nov 17, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
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true value today was uber crowded
where's waldo?
ahh, there he is on spark arrester
I think the devil just called my name
another friend ashley showed up later with another group
and thanks for the tour!
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Nov 18, 2013 - 01:25am PT
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almost like an in door climbing. except for the 13 dogs. ;)
i haven't top roped in a while. it was fun to get out of my comfort range and stay within my comfort range
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Nov 18, 2013 - 01:29am PT
|
the granite arch in sac allows dogs inside. not mine though. according to the rules they're not allowed to do anything that real dogs do (bark, play with other dogs, poop, etc)
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Nov 18, 2013 - 01:46am PT
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do you own half of a dog? actually, the black dog (Syd) is one that i am watching for a friend going to chiro school in Hayward. It's a 3 year school so I would say that I half own her (Just don't let maggie hear me say that).
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Nov 18, 2013 - 04:17am PT
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Hours ago ...
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Nov 18, 2013 - 03:07pm PT
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Had a great time in at Wood Hood this weekend! Did Yellow Fin via the Yellow Tail start (also climbed the original start in the chimney behind the bush). Both great options to start the route, thought Yellow Tail was a bit harder and more fun. Note a piece of the corner in the wide down low on Yellow Tail is going to break off someday, might consider taking a proactive approach on it.
Jebus - we rapped HoG with a single 70 (60 would work no prob). Pretty much any approach pitch will work. The 11a pitch (p3) looks f'ing classick and very sustained. We TR'd the last pitch of HoG after we did Y.F., and it is hands down the best single pitch of finger locking goodness I've done at the fords. Get on it! (I have an annotated topo I could send ya)
Also did some fun 5.8 in the gulley left of Y.F. and it is a great warm up with just a bit of looseness in the middle and tasty hand jams at the top. Dan - what's the name on this one?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Nov 18, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
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Thanks Dan. Bummer to hear about the financial woes (nothing worse than a thief). Hopefully all your good Woodfords karma will help see you thru this mess. And don't let all us wankers (myself definitely included) who keep asking about the guide, get you stressed my friend. I actually enjoy the shroud of mystery some of the routes have and word of mouth descriptions. Make finally sending them more of an accomplishment.
Anyway, hats off to you, Mark Bauer, Kenny Thompson, Ryan Curry, and all the many others who have contributed to the quality routes I enjoy so much. Top notch work!
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Nov 18, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
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bummer about the bike. here's to hoping they bring it into the ltd for a tuneup.
went to a rarely visited anymore section at the fords today. started up what I thought was Tangerine but was stymied shortly after this by rat shyt everywhere
so i moved over a little where it was dirty but not shitty
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Nov 19, 2013 - 06:23pm PT
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Jebus - I emailed you my chicken scratch overtop Chim's topo. With his last few comments and your previous trips there, you should be good.
Laine where exactly is the loose rock? Dan - I felt a piece of the right side corner of Yellow Tail begin to separate. It is down low in the wide section maybe a foot or two below the pinch point. I was stemming and liebacking it and heard/felt the rock beginning to separate. At that time I noticed a slight existing fracture on the face and thought I may have made it worse. Hopefully it's nothing.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Nov 19, 2013 - 07:36pm PT
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I didn't noticed it when I led it but I followed the second time and noticed it. Thought it was Yellow Tail when we chatted.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Nov 19, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
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i was at the lost cabin. when i saw the single bolt at the top of this one my thought was that it wasn't far enough down the wall to be tangerine according to your topo. but i didn't see anything else between this corner and the led zepp arete (that one was obvious). i wasn't looking too hard though as it was tough enough moving along the wall since it's all fairly overgrown now.
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portent
Social climber
your mom's house
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Nov 22, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
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Thinking of heading down tomorrow, how's it looking fellows?
-Kovar
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portent
Social climber
your mom's house
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Nov 22, 2013 - 04:23pm PT
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Awesome, thanks Dan! See you out there if you're around...
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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Nov 23, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
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BRRRR.... think i'll do 10 push ups and call it good :)
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Nov 24, 2013 - 11:23am PT
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anyone heading to true value today??
and also, one of my dogs ended up with two ticks recently. i kind of have it narrrowed down to woodfords, true value, or prison hill. anyone know of ticks in any of them places?
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Nov 24, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
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speaking of snakes, this was found within 100 yards of a recent tree cutting incident at around 8,300.
rattler?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Nov 27, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
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Glad you sent it, Jebus. Definitely getting on that rig this season (or off season as the case may be). But since I broke my finger last week I'll have to live vicariously thru you guys for a few weeks.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2013 - 08:49pm PT
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I bet Woodfords was beautiful today.
(Posted from voice recognition app. Cool!)
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2013 - 10:54am PT
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Ron, I'm still oscillating between Tahoe and Carson Valley. Let me know when you and Rick want to challenge yourselves on Sunny Delight at the CV Sentinel.
Jeebs, let me know if you come down, Wed is at least looking sunny and calm. Tromping up the slope - boots or snowshoes - could be fun as a minimum, opportunity to work on my tan, ha ha, and check out the climbing conditions. Would probably take a couple hours in the sun for the tan rock to warm I'm thinking.
I could also glass the chute on the south side, see how its base is coming along. It's a fun rip!
Beautiful outside this morning in Jacks Valley! Minus 10F, woohoo!!
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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Dec 13, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
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Dude, if its any thing like pie shop looks like today, we are good to go! Holler chimstar, enuff Tele turns!
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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Dec 13, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
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Twhatever, Sunday, for money, football is dead to me. Go niners.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 20, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
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Any new routes go up lately? My finger is almost fully healed and I'm itching to work on some of my projects, but I need some fuel the stoke the fire. The snow inbounds sucks, backcountry hasn't filled in yet and I've got a week off from work.
Time to get busy!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Dec 23, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
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Great day at the fortress today. Must have been 60 degrees up there. Nice to meet ya Dave. Hope to see you up there again.
We got our rope stuck at the end of the day on Sun Wall. If anyone is able to pull it offin the next few days I'll gladly trade you for a six pack.
Happy holidays!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
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Did you draw that picture, Ron?
If so, nice work! I marveled earlier at how clear it is,
and how accurate it appears to be especially from
that angle.
Hey, I should ask you too. As I just asked Paul.
Any chance you know the history of the anchor on OOTD?
Who put it in? How long ago? Just curious for my own greater
awareness, is all.
PS I disagree with the 10c marking at the top of OOTD
just before the traverse over to the chimney. For me that's
where it lets up. In my opinion if there's a second 10c
it's half way or so between roof and top (near the
flake pull) in the overhanging section.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
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Well, you did real good! :)
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose and south lake tahoe, ca
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Hey everybody, I just moved to south lake a couple months ago and would love to climb here with anyone interested. Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday are my go to climbing days. I have a full rack and others on here can (hopefully) vouch for me being a good climbing partner ;) (ie. safety conscious and fun to climb with!)
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Hey that's great Jebus. Thank you. I'll prolly be down tomorrow to grab it if anyone wants to do some climbing.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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We tried to flip it but it didn't seem to do the trick. Thanks again.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Jebus was that you soloing up there today?
Chim we got up 5.7 book and cat scratch fever.
Weird that mp calls Cat Scratch Fever a 5.10c onsight and calls I Be Jammin' the easiest 10a at Woodfords. I could swear it's the other way around.
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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@briham89, I'll climb with you, but I only have weekends off...
For the record, I think I Be Jammin is 10a. I find it a little to difficult for 5.9. CSF is a tough route in my opinion. I think it's 10b but it's stout!
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose and south lake tahoe, ca
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Hey Friedo, cool! I teach lessons at Kirkwood on weekends, but sometimes they are slow and don't have work. So on days when the snow is bad, I can definitely climb on weekends. Let me know when you're looking for a partner (408)375-3468. I look forward to meeting you guys out there!
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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i was definitely looking up at those but we had the dog and i don't like leaving him down like that.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Briham was that you we saw at 90' wall on the 28th? I was with my daughters and a friend from Bend.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose and south lake tahoe, ca
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HAHA yep that was me!!
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose and south lake tahoe, ca
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I think we should wear supertopo name tags when we climb haha
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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you just have to see me climb to know i'm gumby, dammit
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2014 - 02:04pm PT
|
Absolutely gorgeous conditions yesterday at Donny G and Sun Wall.
Gumby we saw you over there having loads of fun. No solo on Arrowhead I'm afraid, not yet, lol!
Laine, you don't check your email? Your rope's in the shade of some manzanita at the base.
If I were'nt completely worked over, I'd be there today.
This sunny weather is awesome!!
PS.
Kenny,
You are already missed in Woodfords,
stay cool!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Thanks Bill, I got the message. I appreciate it. Hope to see you up there sometime soon.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose and south lake tahoe, ca
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Awesome, sounds good! Wednesday I have to work until about 10:30am and then I'm free. Thursday I'm free all day. Give me a call then.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Hope to see some new and familiar faces up there today.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
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What's happening in the woodfords these days? Hopefully warm sunny days
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Wet and cold
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2014 - 08:21pm PT
|
Hey bud, nice to see you posting up!
I took Mr Big out to Woodfords. Happy to report your Johnson and Johnson works pretty good, I'm sold, it will save me a few bucks.
That's right, check in once in awhile. :)
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Not too bad up there today. Warm but breezy. Climbed First Crux - the first 20 feet were good followed by rotten, lichenie jams.
Was that your party on walking jack, Foot?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2014 - 09:33pm PT
|
Laine, not I. Didn't make it today.
Thinking about going tomorrow though. You
got back your rope, I hope.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Yep, thanks for shading it up for me.
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JustThatEasy
climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Hey Chim!
I just wanted to say hi and give you a belated "Happy New Year!". I hope all is well back in Cali, tell Sasha hi for me!
Ryan
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Chim.
If you head up Thursday give me a shout. May actually have a day off.
Shawn
Kenny
Thanks for everything you've done for the area and good luck up in Oregon
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JustThatEasy
climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Chim,
I ran into a guy down here in Chalten that climbed in Woodfords on your recommendation and loved it! World famous Woodfords Canyon, baby!! Keep me posted on what's happening in the 'Fords; I find myself dreaming of warm, sticky granite these days.
Cheers,
Ryan
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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Jan 21, 2014 - 04:09pm PT
|
Good to see you too, Dan. Nice work on the new line. Quite the little harem of hotties out there yesterday. My Ecuadorian partner could barely contain himself.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 23, 2014 - 05:41pm PT
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Strong work chim.... I'm off most tues, wed, Thursdays now if you need a belay bitch
Shawn
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jan 25, 2014 - 01:11am PT
|
Anyone climbing at the fortress Sunday? I'm looking to go to wood good. Interested in a few pitches of topographic ocean and p1 of HoG. Maybe that new chimney route? Dan, u around then? Kenny, why did u leave?! Gonna be nice. Lemme know.
L
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2014 - 10:39am PT
|
Laine,
we're going to the fortress tomorrow provided the weather's pleasant. We usually arrive at 9:30. Hope to see you there, at long last. :)
PS Noticed on your mountainproject page we share a lot of 4 star interests. Also noticed some Ben T guy gave psych tree only two stars but said it was at least as good as the Line, lol! "No acct for tastes."
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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Jan 25, 2014 - 03:35pm PT
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Great Foot, you guys into doing an few pitches of topo ocean?
Post up in the AM to confirm if you're going.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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Jan 25, 2014 - 08:50pm PT
|
Ok I'll bring QLs. I was also thinking of replacing the tat on Two lips with QLs and some chain. Thanks for the beta, Dan.
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Trusty Rusty
climber
Tahoe Area
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Jan 25, 2014 - 10:49pm PT
|
Bill Rose . . you still printing "Pave Mono Lake" stickers and humping dead Lama? Call me, we're long overdue a good debauch sesh.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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Jan 25, 2014 - 11:58pm PT
|
Sun wall sounds good. See you guys there.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jan 26, 2014 - 01:16am PT
|
No, but I'd love to hear the details. Still haven't done the Steeple.
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Trusty Rusty
climber
Tahoe Area
|
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Jan 26, 2014 - 02:08am PT
|
There was a spice container. Big topic over berm fires on the Pioneer trail in the early 90s. We all scattered. But for Bronco, solo oddities on the 88 neath trowel of winter waxed horrible. He started out as a good man. A nice man. His withdraw to personify solace went south as his compass spun between mother and ski hooker. He climbed to fight the contradiction. But, as it is, he became all he hated. . . . a he-mother ski hooker bolt drilling F'kd up Lama pumping rasta. Good on ya Mate wherever yar.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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Jan 26, 2014 - 11:40pm PT
|
Good times with Mark, Spark, n Bill. Bill sent sun wall mid and we watched Mark walk SW left. Met some Renoites at the parking area. They climbed at deadwood last weekend, and hit the books today. Met some other folks at the end of the day who spent the day stomping around the sand looking for the fortress. Walter White was even there. Place is getting busy.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
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Jan 27, 2014 - 01:38pm PT
|
Chim
Looking like Thursday is out......SNOW!!!!! WTF is that?
Shawn
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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Jan 27, 2014 - 05:29pm PT
|
I'd keep spraying how good it is and before you know it the whole world will know The more the merrier. Personally I think the popularity of Woodfords is outmatched by level of effort needed to approach and climb many of the routes. I doubt it will ever suffer overcrowding like the Leap.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 29, 2014 - 11:10am PT
|
Ron
Went up to whites several years ago with only my camera in hand as well. Some of the most beautiful rock I have seen up there!'!!! Pounded a 2008 quarter at the base of a crack that I want to get on before I keel over
Shawn
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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Jan 29, 2014 - 12:35pm PT
|
Thanks for bringing the mug Dan. Found it no problem.
Footloose, never got your PM. I sent you one as well. Maybe try again?
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
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Jan 29, 2014 - 01:26pm PT
|
Approach to whites was a little difficult but I went the "scenic route"
The other area I'm definitely in. Access is a lot easier from the west. Looks like an easy drop in from the top if needed. Checked it out several years ago.
Shawn
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2014 - 03:11pm PT
|
Ron, word is you have CMac's ear, lol!
maybe you could let him know his PM feature doesn't work??
Come on down to CV Sentinel one of these days, eh?
I'll show you around!! :)
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Trusty Rusty
climber
Tahoe Area
|
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|
Jan 30, 2014 - 10:08pm PT
|
Chim,
Don't recall those rags but I do recall trying to pilf a stash of old Cal & Hammer topo's.
Cool action in the canyon over the last several years, great work.
|
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2014 - 10:10am PT
|
Laine, I discovered one of your slings on my rack.
Who's heading up today? lol!
|
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Cool, Bill. I'll grab it from you next time. Might be awhile given the snow forecast (finally).
|
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
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|
Feb 16, 2014 - 11:26pm PT
|
Snows been good, so I'm gonna ski... Unless Hand of God is on the table. Then I'll switch gears.
|
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
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|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2014 - 08:48pm PT
|
Dan, we ended up in the Cat Scratch Fever area.
Inspired by Laine's interest, we thought we'd check out the HOG area, only the first couple pitches though as we had Grady (Mark's doggie) with us and surrounding area because I don't know it well. The winds though were cyclonic on the prominences, fierce, so we stayed low. That's twice now in as many days the forecast has gotten it wrong. Lots of fun though still as we hit the gym hard yesterday so what we did today was plenty satisfying.
Do you think you should trundle the flake third way up CSF? it's not trivial and it looks like only soil and lichen might be holding it in there and looks like it could let loose anytime on belay below. Thoughts? There is easy workaround (stemming) right at that spot so shouldn't alter the route much, it seems. But that's for you to decide, I think, not me.
Weather's looking mixed next few days.
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.78459874169886&lon=-119.81449127197266#.UwK7JoVnhOp
Let me know if you'd like to hit the gym wed or thur for a good workout to keep in shape for the upcoming season. Woohoo!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2014 - 10:28am PT
|
Really windy outside! looks like a gym day.
Anybody up for a workout at High Altitude Fitness? Around noon?
What about you Moose, you back in town? too windy for skiing
in t-shirts in Alpine Co today!
That's the problem, Dan, with these "pesky" wedged flakes.
They might take two thousand more pulls or just two or three
before letting loose. As the belayer at Cat Scratch Fever
a few days ago I was ready with a quick exit strategy,
ready to dart, just in case.
High Altitude now has a nationally recognized route setter
who's been putting up some really good, fun, challenging stuff lately!
Ron, I didn't know your history w CSF, congrats on the FA.
Great route!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2014 - 07:53pm PT
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Moose,
at least a few of us will be at the Fortress tomorrow if you'd like to come. The more the merrier, I say! We'll be at the Cat Scratch Fever area again. We're meeting at 10:00a sharp.
On another note, I left my chalk bag at CSF if anybody's found it. Otherwise I hope to pick it up in the morn. Let's hope the weather tomorrow is as nice as the forecast says. Woo hoo!
Your other thread, how cute. Such a troll! ')
Dan, congrats on the purple, I like that route!!
We miss you, Kenny!
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Feb 22, 2014 - 08:56pm PT
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Dan,
Brought you chalk bag down from CSF area today. Hung it on the sign at the end of parking area.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2014 - 10:52pm PT
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Dan, we climbed in the CSF and HOG areas. It was a full day, and the weather and conditions were perfect.
Regarding chalk bag, we found mine atop 5.8 Hand Crack early in the day and I now have it back. Texplorer, are you sure you were in the CSF area, we thought we had this area all to ourselves all day today.
We were setting up to explore the chimney gulley climbers left of HOG money pitch to top when our time ran out. HOG's money pitch and one to climbers left will be top of the ticket next time we're there. Very cool area!
Dan, noticed your work going on up there. Anchors at Two Lips, etc. Hope to meet up with you soon in this very cool area for more show n tell.
Laine is stoked to take on the roof!
PS. Laine, here's your pullharder linkup link...
http://pullharder.org/2012/07/16/star-trekkin-mithral-dihedral-link-up-c2c/
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2014 - 11:22pm PT
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Moose, well hopefully soon! :)
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 24, 2014 - 12:30pm PT
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Was that you down there on Sat, Karsten? We saw another car but never saw anybody. Would have been nice to see ya.
Nice climbing with you again, Bill (and Leslie). Man, she can crank for a newer climber.
Anybody go a description on Drake's Passage (10a R)? Ryan mentions it on the Wood Hood front page, but that's it.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 24, 2014 - 01:10pm PT
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Interesting. There looks to be several decent finishes up that wall. I'd love to play around on it a bit more.
Bill is interested in heading up the chimney gulley just left of the 3rd pitch of HoG. Ever sent that thing, Dan?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 24, 2014 - 01:34pm PT
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Sounds like great fun. Keep me in mind. I have a 9-5 so weekends are my only real time to play.
BTW - my 2 cents on the loose flake on CSF is it needs to go. It vibrates if you barely hit it and I believe it can be pull out by hand. Even with careful stemming/chimneying you still use it to jam.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2014 - 10:09pm PT
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That was me up there today, Dan. I left before seeing your post.
Next round of good weather we'll have to get together, given our mutual interests.
What a fabulous area!
Who were you with today, you guys made excellent time on the approach.
It was you, was it not?
What a beautiful day. Full-on sun and hotness in Feb, like! I have to get a new camera,
dust has settled in on the lens system and apparently there's no getting it out. Sad, because
today was totally picturesque in every direction!
Were you guys trundling today, I thought there were a few times
I heard crashes below. Your developments in the area are evident
everywhere, nice!
Looks like the forecast is calling for rain and snow later this week.
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.78459874169886&lon=-119.81449127197266#.UwwQ44VnhOp
P.S. I think I could follow free if my 5.11 ropegun were to place his pro judiciously, skillfully,
and not in the 5.11 finger sections- so I could then blast through!
Money pitch protects very well, couldn't ask for better.
I wonder if there is a workaround at the roof (climbers left)
to the knobs above? to keep it 10d or so.
Happy climbing! :)
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 25, 2014 - 01:14am PT
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Damn Footloose you soloed that chimney to the top?! Was it pretty solid in there? At least you put on your rock shoes this time. Glad you got to check that final pitch.
Next weekend is probably good for skiing but I'll check in with everyone the following assuming I don't head down to Red Rocks.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Feb 25, 2014 - 01:41am PT
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The boulder up top is on route? Nice pic with 88 below. Propers posted.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2014 - 10:33am PT
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Laine, remind me.
You said you once rapped the dihedral of HOG? I imagine it was challenging to get to the lower rap station without directionals? Or did you have a partner who was already down (who set directionals for his rap) help guide your rap? Wondering, as the plumb line of the pitch goes off the side pretty quick.
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kennyt
Trad climber
Oregon
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Feb 25, 2014 - 10:36am PT
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How's it going bill? More pics! Looks like good weather down there just f*#kin rains here.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2014 - 10:50am PT
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Kenny!!!!!11
Still rainy there, eh? Well consider it even more incentive to visit here ASAP! :)
I'll gather up a couple more pics...
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2014 - 11:40am PT
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No directionals needed to rap HOG...
Surprised to hear this, Jebus, but good to know. So you were (are) able to just friction traverse and keep yourself in the corner, huh? all the way down to rap station above roof huh? Maybe that was exceptional skillz on your part? Maybe a better man climber than me, lol!!
My goal was to rope solo the pitch, so this might have biased my thinking regarding use of directionals, maybe.
Dan, any route names to share around your slung trees, either the pine in picture above or mountain mahogany way up top. I rope soloed this east-facing face too, for a warm-up. Like.
Next time up, I'd like to try variations around the HOG dihedral pitch. I'd love to go today, weather again is awesome, but "at this age" I need a rest. :)
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2014 - 11:58am PT
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Interesting.
Okay, to be clear... If you set up your toprope off the anchors atop the dihedral pitch, it slides off climber's left within 30' or so (following its plumb line) over the wall and into gully. Right? Anyhow, that was my experience yesterday that prodded me to set directionals every 30' going down. Or maybe your friction was so little you didn't notice? Now I'm interested in rapping the route to pitch below the roof just to see! Rockclimbing, like!!
My sense of it...
EDIT Yeah, I might have over-thought this, however.
When you're an over-the-hill 5.3d climber, it happens. :)
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2014 - 12:09pm PT
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Did you lead the dihedral pitch, Jebus? Did you free it? The roof? the thin fingers higher up? Let's get together with Laine and Dan and do it again next good weather!
Definitely 4 stars.
Perhaps my pic above is a bit tilted, too. :)
Okay, I take it back. ;)
Kenny, this crack looks like it could be fun...
It lives just west and upward of Cat Scratch Fever.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 25, 2014 - 12:49pm PT
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Footloose, you biggest issue TR'ing the roof pitch will be a swing from underneath the roof if you peel off before making it to the apex. Maybe set a directional about half way underneath (alternatively just don't fall).
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2014 - 01:02pm PT
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We should distinguish between the "roof pitch" and "dihedral pitch" shouldn't we? - as long as we're (I'm) overthinking this, lol!
There's an anchor at the Mt Mahogany Tree (where I left my boots and you belayed me to the gully), there's a second chain anchor 6' or so above the roof, and of course the third chain anchor atop the dihedral.
Were I to lead the route, I'd belay at the Mt Mahogany anchor for the roof goodness; and then I'd belay above the roof at (rap) anchor (since it's there) to get a good view of leader on dihedral goodness. Of course I suppose you could lead over the roof and the dihedral in one shebang but then belayer as spectator, I think, is robbed of any dihedral "entertainment."
Alright, tmi.
Excited to get on these sections (subpitches, whatever) again. Next time I might bring my gym rope, too, so we can play on just the roof segment, I just cut it, it's 35m. Should work.
btw, the forecast blew it for today, as well. Not a cloud in the sky here in Carson Valley.
P.S. Jeebus, you work too much is all. ;)
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 12:11pm PT
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We might be channeling each other, Dan! because I was just about to post up to ask you for the route names, if any, on the east-facing wall. But the east-facing wall I had in mind (and that I solo TRed) is of the HOG gulley, not the HOG tower. (Like the "tower" name, btw.) Here's a pic...
Crappy pic, washed out detail, due to dust in the lens system but it shows the east-facing wall I TRed for a warm-up and a bit of the mt mahogany on top I TRed from.
I did notice the bolts atop the HOG tower. Decided to save exploring those for next time. I think the route or routes below them are what you're referencing, is that right? Tell us about them.
It's a shame the weather has turned, once again...
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.78459874169886&lon=-119.81449127197266#.Uw4iHIVnhOq
I have time to climb this season, let's get out, would like more show n tell in the area.
Inspiration for next sunny day...
Were I to TR solo the corner again, I still think I'd set directionals just for their convenience, whose potential benefit you might be able to see from above photo.
Dan, who has the FA on HOG roof and corner?
And, again, very nice work, thoughtful too, on the anchors there.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 12:29pm PT
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set for a high line slack line
Wow! So did anything come of this? What a neat thing to do!
And any established routes or names of routes on the wall in the pic I posted. At this time, it's more a blur to me because it's dirty up there, I was concerned about potential rock fall as I was pending / swinging back n forth and because I had HOG in mind for entree. But I remember thinking it was good.
So to be clear, is there anything down there then, on the east face of HOG Tower? In other words, were we to rap off those bolts (slackline bolts) anyway would we end up in any interesting area, eg at the base of routes?
Route(s) below this anchor?
I think Mark B and I were heading here when we got distracted by something else.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 12:58pm PT
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Cool, Dan. Thanks.
Yeah, "Sissy Sue" rings a bell. I enjoyed that climb, fun little roof pull that protects well.
Mushroom Cap. LOL. If it's the same, I've been calling that big rock formation up there on the corner, Cap Stone. LOL!
I'm heading to the gym in a couple hours, I can comp if you show up. Short notice, I know.
Gotta stay strong, Footloose needs muscle to pull that roof next sunny day!!!
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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Feb 27, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
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chim cha! havent seen you in awhile, how goes it? walked up there on monday afternoon and saw two folks, just exercise and lookin at stuff. holler! skiing next few days, later.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2014 - 10:13am PT
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Dan, thanks for all the info.
The "Cap" in the above photo is not on the HOG tower. I took this picture as I rounded the "Western Front" (my own playful moniker) to the "Great Drainage" (another) you would take to get to The Big Bad Wolf and also access to the top of HOG.
So I gather this "Cap Stone" is different from "Mushroom Cap." Not that surprised, really. So much rock and changing perspective, no wonder the occasional confusion!
Snowing big chunks here, right now. Can't wait for climbing weather again!
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portent
Social climber
your mom's house
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How's it looking down there fellas?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2014 - 09:09pm PT
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Twas a little more HOG action today...
"If you rest you rust." :)
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portent
Social climber
your mom's house
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Awesome shot!!
May drive down solo tomorrow, though H.O.G is a bit out of my wheel house :), I'd like to get on Two Lips or something comparable. If not I'll do some exploring....
Shout out if anyone will be around...
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2014 - 09:27pm PT
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Portent, pm your number. I'll keep an eye on the weather.
There was high strato cirrus today which kept Woodfords a bit cool.
I just love the toasty warm brown rock feel in the winter, keeps me coming back.
I hear two lips is pretty good.
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portent
Social climber
your mom's house
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Footloose,
PM sent
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2014 - 10:13pm PT
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Portent, got your pm. Hope you were able to make it down as it was a good looking day esp before two pm or so. I sure wanted to go again today, after such a fun yesterday, but fingers were just too bruised and battered.
Here are a few more shots showing how orientation and perspective can really mix things up and affect the perception...
The red line denotes the plumb line rappel right down to a point atop the next rap.
It appears at a strange angle but a rap verifies its accuracy.
Rotating the same pic 90 degrees seems to resemble yesterday's reality the most...
Last but not least, the same pic rotated 180.
Here the rap line (plumb line) appears strange again, at least to me. And without it drawn in, the pic orientation seems to suggest a rap would land you on big block immediately below roof which it does not.
Finally, this is probably the most accurate of all, orienting the pic so the (known) plumb line is vertical in the image...
Of course we all know about this effect already as it's a pretty common one, still it's amazing to me (esp having rapped it just yesterday) to see it in pics.
PS I hadn't seen any of the pics of HOG at mountainproject till just now. They are most excellent ones. A nice writeup as well, C Mustard! Accurate, it seems, by my lights, and fun to read as usual, nice.
PSS I see that they're all your pics, and TW's, double nice!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2014 - 02:04pm PT
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Dan, we'll be heading up tomorrow or thur
depending on the weather. Perhaps the Woodhood area
again? What about you, any projects or what not?
Nice, jeebs!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 11, 2014 - 03:00pm PT
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It looks like you guys will have some fine temps this week. I'm off for a trip to Red Rocks this week to crimp some sandstone on Mt. Wilson, maybe do Epi or Eagle Dance as well.
Dan - I'll update those MP descriptions after I speak with you a bit more on those starting pitches at Wood Hood.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2014 - 04:50pm PT
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Jeebs, hear hear! on those pitches and routes.
I led HOGp3 back on the 7th, so I got some (shining time) already
though not free, that'll be a while yet, lol!
I'll have to work my feet better, I think, with better
efficiency - just like you're doing by all appearances in pic above. :)
You're right, too, lots of fun, start to finish.
Have fun, Laine, you lucky dog!!
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kennyt
Trad climber
Oregon
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Mar 13, 2014 - 11:06am PT
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You dawgs...
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kennyt
Trad climber
Oregon
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Mar 13, 2014 - 07:11pm PT
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Hey Andre it's actually beautiful today.this is a spot near my house
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Mar 13, 2014 - 07:43pm PT
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good looking spot Kenny
Chim
If you need some more photos I purchased a much better camera than what I shot the others with. Higher Res. pics. Let me know what needs to be shot.....
Shawn
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portent
Social climber
your mom's house
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Mar 13, 2014 - 07:56pm PT
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Chim-
Tahoe's Local guide was printed in China. The ink rubs right off on my fingers. Just something to consider. I'd rather pay a bit more for a quality guide...
My 2 cents...
-kovar
edit: and that book was about $40... and in case Mr. Jackson chimes in... it's worth it for the content but the actual book quality is crap...
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Mar 14, 2014 - 01:56pm PT
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Saw four or five cars at the 'Fords yesterday evening on my drive home. Extremely jealous yet excited about the weather. Also somewhat bummed about the ski season, having bought new skis and barely got a chance to use them. Guess I'll have to take out my aggression on the rock!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2014 - 02:00pm PT
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Kenny, is that you on rappel? Nice pics!
Happy to report, the slash climbers left of HoG pitch 3 goes at 5.8 to the top. Next time up this slash hope to explore for a variation up to HoGp4 (corner) belay. It looks like it might go.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Mar 21, 2014 - 03:34am PT
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Anyone heading up to Woodfords this weekend? Thinking about climbing there with a friend and could use some beta.
Probably want to be in the sun (north side) this weekend. Where should I go?
I want cracks, Fingers, hands fists offwidth whatever. Multi pitch would be cool. Looking for mid .10's through .12's. A good concentrated area would be cool so I don't have to wander about searching for something worth climbing the whole time.
I don't get out there much and being that the areas so spread out and vast, it really sucks when you spend a half day or full day just wandering about. So please point me to the good stuff. Not some grainy thing that just went up you want to see traffic on, I'm talking the goods.
If you're going to be out there, a tour guide would be cool too.
Also, where's the good secluded camping where I can have a fire? Been there a few times and haven't seen any camping that wasn't roadside tweaker traps.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2014 - 11:47am PT
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Another possibility: Hit Cat Scratch Fever for the morning warm up. Then hit the Woodhood area. Bypass the first couple of pitches of HoG via 3rd-4th class scramble to anchors at base of HoGp3. Hit the roof and corner money pitches. Then walk off the top to gully west and hit Big Bad Wolf (ow 5.11, pic first page of this thread); from this vantage point you'll see it just a couple hundred yards further on. If your day's done, descend gully back to trail and parking; if not, return to HoG, rap route and hit Sun Wall Middle and Left for fun finish.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2014 - 12:36pm PT
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Hey Dan, no I didn't. Earlier I only mentioned it as a possibility and heads-up caveat. I don't think I'm as motivated as Laine in that it necessarily needs to be.
Are you looking to trundle it?
Sure wish I could climb today. But this old fart, thinking more long term, needs to give his shoulders a rest, dang. (If only my shoulders felt like my knees, I'd be at Woodfords and Yosemite every day this month.)
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kennyt
Trad climber
Oregon
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Mar 21, 2014 - 06:16pm PT
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Ahh, the tweaker traps are all on the west slope.
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JustThatEasy
climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Mar 22, 2014 - 11:26am PT
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I'm surprised that High Caliber Corridor hasn't been mentioned. There's a lot of good climbs in one convenient location, especially if you're climbing 5.11 or harder.
Also, I think Big Bad Wolf will clock in at 5.11, maybe 5.11+, but not any harder than that. It's wide so it may feel harder...my two cents.
Ryan
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Chip Brejc
climber
South Lkae Tahoe
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Mar 22, 2014 - 11:42am PT
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did you change your cell number
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Mar 24, 2014 - 12:06am PT
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Well, it's good to know creepers don't lurk around the Fords like they do around Cal Domes. That place seems to be getting worse every year. I was just looking for a more secluded spot not next to the road.
Anyway, we found with some effort the Hand of God. Actually, we kinda stumbled upon it as it looked like the most obvious thing that needed to be climbed. The info on Mt Project was almost useless and seemed like it would only help out someone already really familiar with the area. Needless to say, I can't wait for the guide ;)
We climbed a bunch of other stuff around there too but I have no idea what it was. Some good, some great!
What's the .10ish dihedral on the right side of the hand called? Thought that was just as good as the left side, just a bit easier.
Thought the roof on the Hand was .10+ and pretty strait forward but the second pitch was pretty solid of the grade.
Thanks for the beta guys. Place is finally starting to grow on me.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Mar 26, 2014 - 01:37am PT
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Yeah, actually the climbing around there and atmosphere was pretty bad ass. There's literally billions of routes all around.
We climbed the first pitch of HoG, then bumped over to Smearing for Jesus I think... (bolted thing that moves to the arête then peters out to easy cracks?). Above was the left leaning right side crack system we climbed which made up the right side of the Hand formation. Pretty bomber cracks that goes through a fist sized roof thing that goes out left and leads around the corner to a very thin and frizzly footwork stemming dihedral to the top. Dug it and super classic. Seemed like it hadn't been climbed in a long time.
If it has no name, then I dub thee JUDAS!
We then rappelled to the start of the HoG dihedral and climbed it.
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benkraft
climber
San Francisco
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Mar 26, 2014 - 11:51am PT
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We had a nice first weekend at woodfords, with comfortable tweaker-free camping down by the river (though we were woken up by random saturday night gun shots).
Perfect weather
Is there a name for the wall across from One of These Days, on the east side of the formation with High Energy (or is this high energy)? We found some good warmups in the sun, including an easy ow tr, and saw a lot more anchors. Seen from ootd's,
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benkraft
climber
San Francisco
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Mar 26, 2014 - 02:40pm PT
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Chim, thanks for the info. Looks like there's some good stuff there.
One of These Days itself almost got sun in the afternoon
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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A couple touristy photos I took while going by a couple days ago.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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biotch
Nice shots
The second one top right is the "speckled gecko" and the largest formation to its left(top middle of the pic) is huge when you get up to it. Chim has done a couple routes in the 5.8 range on it if I remember right. Typical Woodfords slog on DG to get to it though.
Shawn
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Oh boy, W.L.! Somebody needs a hug in that last shot....
I keep looking at these Woodfords threads and it all looks pretty fun and challenging, (and good in the early season?) but it's probably not to be this year for me. :(
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 11, 2014 - 02:04am PT
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Enjoying some rope solo laps on hillside strangler today, when good old Sierra weather decided to show up. Happened within 10 minutes. Gotta love how quickly it can show up. And how quickly it can disappear. These pics of the fortress were taken within 20 minutes of each other.
It ended up coming back, wetter and stronger, so I had to bail. Saw a party near the perfect lieback area get trapped in it too! Good times.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 14, 2014 - 07:12pm PT
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Dan - I haven't been routing lately, went to Yose for a bigwall a few weekends ago and worked on house BS all last weekend but I want to hit the fords this Saturday.
Anyone up for a day at Crystal Wall Saturday? Gonna be a sunny and warm but the wall provides nice shade in the afternoon. Do some laps on the existing stuff and maybe put up a new route. Lemme know. -L
BTW - T?S, love the 'after hail' photo with the tree. Really captures the essence of the area.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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May 14, 2014 - 07:53pm PT
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Friend of mine just got back to San Diego and said he's been climbing at Woodfords last month or so. He verified the old school ratings for me lol! I had guessed as much, but it's nice to know for sure.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2014 - 08:33pm PT
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worked on house BS all last weekend
Laine, me too. Building a house this spring, fun! so not too much time for climbing, sad! But getting away this weekend to the Sawtooths and Matterhorn - weather forecast looks good!
I'll go by and put your draw w biners under the caire at OOTD very early Sat morn. How's that?
Have a good weekend!
...and save some for me. :)
Edit - Okay, Laine, got it.
Happy climbing!!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 14, 2014 - 08:38pm PT
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Don't worry about it, Bill. I'll grab it from you next time we climb together (just in case I can't find it). Have fun on the MAtterhorn. Super enduro approach with steep 5.6 climbing. Don't forget your axe.
If you like it we should go back this summer and do the Dragway!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 16, 2014 - 01:08am PT
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Not sure the details of that one. I think it's Dans route though. Has a great looking splitter on it but I think the roof at the top is stout.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 16, 2014 - 12:54pm PT
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Not my handiwork, Dan. You climbing tomorrow?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 16, 2014 - 02:04pm PT
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Had a feeling you worked Saturdays. Anyone else? Shawn, Jebus, T?S, Spark, Mark, Kovar, Bueller? Hit me up if you wanna jam tomorrow. -L
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 16, 2014 - 04:58pm PT
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I wish! Gonna be attending my sister's wedding... Surely will be down at some point next week before the fest though.
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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May 16, 2014 - 05:08pm PT
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Laine,
I might be headed out there tomorrow. We've never met but I've been climbing there a bunch. Haven't been climbing much lately though, so I'll probably struggle on the harder stuff, but I can still grind my way up...
Let me know if you want to meet up.
Eric
(775)901-1740
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 16, 2014 - 08:04pm PT
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Yea Friedo, let's do it. I'll call you later tonight to set a time and an area where you want to go. -L
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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May 17, 2014 - 08:30pm PT
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Chimmy, lets get.out Monday. Ash and I will be out there tomorrow for a.morning session then gotta work other job. Over and out.
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GoMZ
Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
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May 18, 2014 - 10:56am PT
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Anyone up for climbing on Friday the 23rd? I'd like to check out some of the new south side stuff.
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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May 18, 2014 - 12:06pm PT
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I f#*kin love pancakes, but i love Crepes too...
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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May 18, 2014 - 01:11pm PT
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Been outa town and missed all the action this week. Damn.
Ill be out there Friday the 23rd as well to set stuff up and maybe do a strange thing like climbing...
Shawn
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GoMZ
Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
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May 18, 2014 - 01:44pm PT
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Shawn! I actually know you through Dave Goodwin. I'd come down and help you set up, maybe do a route or three. I asked Dave if he could go and he's a maybe.
Steve gomez
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 20, 2014 - 01:16pm PT
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Hey Chim, do you know the name of the left-facing corner route just left of Orange Wedge? Fun route, with a top section that feels much like Perfect Lie Back.
Sorry to hear you can't make it, Jebus. Can't believe you are on anyone's enemy list! Must be that quick witted tongue of yours. ;)
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 20, 2014 - 01:43pm PT
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Thanks but any monkey can crayon over a picture. Chim, Kenny, Mark, Shawn, etc., did the heavy lifting.
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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May 20, 2014 - 02:16pm PT
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Suggestions for Route Names:
-Laines World, Party Time, Excellent
-Laines Corner
-Lieback and Relax
-Unregular Route
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 20, 2014 - 03:27pm PT
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Orange Leftover?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 20, 2014 - 03:51pm PT
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I agree. That 5.9 is a bit of a dirty birdy but the pro is bomber. I also agree the Tiers are great. Eric and myself got in some 8 pitches by noon. Though we are super-pro...
Hey Chim, I'd like to check out the Steeple this weekend. Might you have a hand-drawn laying around somewhere?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 20, 2014 - 04:32pm PT
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Sounds good, Chim.
Yep, Numb Bunion is a delicate flower for sure. I used a few offset wires to pro up the upper section and got sporty with it. Of course Kenny was watching and Moosedrool was belaying (I don't trust that guy ;) so there was no way I was gonna fall. A lovely blend of pride and fear found me to the top.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Yo Dan - Tyson and I spent the day setting the anchors and scrubbing the upper pitch of the Choad. Got the send of the roof. The rig's a freaking classic from bottom to top!
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kennyt
Trad climber
Oregon
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Jebus,checkout out needful things to the right and around the corner from orange wedge on the middle tier. Some bolts and a couple pieces of gear.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Thanks guys. It was an accomplished day. Kenny, good to see you posting up. I can't wait till I can crank Needful Things out. The moves between the first two bolts looks desperate. Give her a go, Jebus.
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overwatch
climber
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If I ever get back to norcal for climbing again Woodford is on the list. The place looks very worthy.
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Hickicick
climber
NV
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Hey guys! Found a pair of belay glasses today while rope soloing. Name the area or climb they were by and I'll be more than happy to return them to ya.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Hey I didn't even notice my glasses were missing, thanks so much for posting! I bet they were right at the base of OOTD... couldn't tell ya the brand, like two initials on the side, but they are all metal with thin orange chums on them. Let me know where I can deliver a six pack to get them back!
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Hickicick
climber
NV
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Yep T?S that's them! Were you guys there on saturday? I think I waved at you guys. I'm in Carson but will probably be up in Reno later this week. Whatever works best. Hit me up at 775 720-8195.
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kennyt
Trad climber
Oregon
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It's always nice to see a climber reunited with their belay glasses.
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kennyt
Trad climber
Oregon
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Hey Dan, I'm doing well hoping to get down there soon I have nothing but time right now.
Moose, how's it hangin are you in minden?
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Hickicick ya that was us there at The Tiers, great weather Saturday, just that perfect breeze to keep the temps perfect... I lost the glasses on Sunday though, getting my redpoint on One Of These Days!
Man what a route. I'm gonna have to try extra hard to get sick of that thing. We were a party of three so had the opportunity to snap some decent pics. Who's route is the last pic? It was cool!
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jun 10, 2014 - 10:36am PT
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Thanks Dan, assumed it was your handy-work, but cool to know the name and rating. We thought grunty .9+ as well. Have fun this week. I'm stuck as a weekend warrior for the next few weeks... Bummer duuuude!!
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jun 10, 2014 - 11:43am PT
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nice shots of OOTD.
Kenny,
Missed you as well. Hope things are going will.
Shawn
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kennyt
Trad climber
Oregon
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Jun 10, 2014 - 01:50pm PT
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That sounds good Dan, its nice that someone else is doing some of the scrubbing.
Hey Shawn sorry I missed that but I'm trying to get down there soon.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jun 10, 2014 - 03:19pm PT
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What are you guys calling the Green Tongue/Cloudwalker area? Some nice lines up there.
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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Jun 10, 2014 - 03:32pm PT
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cloudburst, port side. hahahaha!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jun 10, 2014 - 03:40pm PT
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I know there's a Seamen joke in there somewhere, but I just can't put my finger on it.
Speaking of fingering, here's a nice little line that needs a go.
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kennyt
Trad climber
Oregon
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Jun 14, 2014 - 04:07pm PT
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moose, did you do doorknob? that's a great route.I'm glad you got to climb with mark today.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jun 16, 2014 - 09:41am PT
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Had a great time out at woodcutter and hillside area with Tyson and Kenny (not KennyT tho) yesterday. We did a few routes uphill from the Mohel - one technical, balancey 5.9 fingers route and a short but fun 5.8 handcrack to the left of the 5.9. The last pic I posted upthread shows the 5.9 route.
Tyson dialed in the red point on Hillside Strangler and we all thought Strangle Hold was really fun. Saw a few cars parked at the Fortress. Bet the wind made it nice over there.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jun 16, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
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Good times Laine and Kenny! Here a couple decent ones of you guys on the Woodcutter shtuff...
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Hickicick
climber
NV
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Jun 17, 2014 - 09:00pm PT
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Hey Laine and Tyson it was good climbing with you guys! I got back up there today and got the redpoint on The Mohel. I checked out that cool looking finger crack across the way from woodcutters. It was pretty disappointing. The crack was only about 25 feet long and wasn't as cool or as thin as it looked. Probs like 10a.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jun 17, 2014 - 09:53pm PT
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Yea, man - proud scend on the Mohel. I still need to try that one. Bummer about that line across the way. That must be why there are no anchors at the top. Let's get out again soon.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jun 24, 2014 - 11:56am PT
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jun 24, 2014 - 02:11pm PT
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Thanks Ron!
Happy to share the full resolution version with anyone who wants it. It's about 5x larger.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jun 24, 2014 - 04:13pm PT
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That photo looks great! Did you take that on the approach to the steeple?
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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Jun 24, 2014 - 05:16pm PT
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beautiful photo
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jun 24, 2014 - 05:22pm PT
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I believe it's from Hillside Strangler... Right before I got caught in a pretty ridiculous snow/slush storm Mothers Day weekend.... Hence the bitchin clouds and light.
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knucko
climber
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Jun 24, 2014 - 05:24pm PT
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Took this picture in December on an early morning approach.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jun 27, 2014 - 02:39pm PT
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Looks like Tyson will be replacing the crappy topos I've been doing in MS Word with actual professional grade layouts. I believe there is already a better Tiers topo in existence.
Just thinking out loud here and I might be completely off base but Chim, Tyson could be your go-to guy for graphic design of the guidebook.
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Hickicick
climber
NV
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Jun 27, 2014 - 08:29pm PT
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Anybody wanna get out this sunday? I'm interested in the stuff up behind OOTD wall if anybody wants to check it out too.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jun 28, 2014 - 09:21am PT
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Wish I could but I already committed to climbing in Tahoe that day (squaw area). If you do the line up and left of the green tongue, bring 2 stainless quick links for the anchor. I gladly pay you back for the hardware. Also if you're interested in Tahoe climbing hit me up.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jun 28, 2014 - 10:11am PT
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Any established routes here?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2014 - 07:08pm PT
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How was the action at Woodfords today?
Who's climbing tomorrow, Monday, anyone?
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Who picked this cherry and what does she go at??? Looks pretty classic: hands, fists, and fingers which overhangs 6-8 ft over 40-50ft?!?
There were plenty of cobwebs on the crack, so I don't think she sees many ascents, but it's a very aesthetic line in a very cool position indeed.
I was just hiking solo so didn't get to give it a go, but my eyeball assessment says 5.11+ or in the neighborhood?
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Heck ya! Thanks Dan. Definitely at the top of my Woodfords tick list now. Betcha the crux is at the top, those fingers look like they will be pretty brutal...
Can't wait.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jul 11, 2014 - 07:32pm PT
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Yo Dan- what's the skinny on the routes at obscenity wall? What do the grades range from?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2014 - 08:06pm PT
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Haha, Laine you have to push the envelope and branch out more. The high sierra calls!!!!
I think the Doodad has our name on it, lol! Maybe Dragway, too, I still haven't done it!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jul 11, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
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I know right. Tried to bag Dragtooth with a good friend a few weeks ago and woke up to a full on winter storm at the bivy spot below Matterhorn. So it was a bust. I did put up a new sport route (ground up) on some limestone in nor cal last week so I got that going for me :).
Let's talk soon, gotta get Dragtooth done!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Aug 25, 2014 - 01:06pm PT
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The fords' page has been mighty quiet these days. Hope people are getting it done out there. Another wall in the cloudburst canyon is up on Mtn Proj. People new to the area should check it out. You can chase the shady all day long out there.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2014 - 02:38pm PT
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Laine, I wish you could get tomorrow off, as I have an off day
and a hankering to climb at the Leap! Still love Woodfords though, ha!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Went up to the Fortress today with Kdog to climb Topographic Ocean. What an adventure that rig is. Sustained hands and fingers mixed with some loose and dirty rock, wild exposure and a bit of runout, keep you on your toes for the entire 500ft. Dank rates this a 10+. We found stout 10+ fingery locks and stems on pitches 2 and 3 with a spicy runout and tenuous 11 crank guarding the top of the fourth pitch. We added quick links to the pitch 3 anchors so you should be able to rap with a 70m from there. Adding another set of anchors atop pitch 4 would allow the route to be rapped and avoid traversing to Hand of God. All in all, stellar route!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Well done, Moose. That thing stays on you the whole way.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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South side of canyon holds some gems.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Dan, I got to the thin crack/flake on p3 and didn't like the looks of it, so I traversed right to another finger crack in a corner directly on the arête. I had a feeling this was not the typical way because I had to clean loose rock as I went. This led directly to the p3 anchors of Yellow Fin. From there we traversed left into the double cracks (stellar!).
When those petered out we did some face moves right directly below the triangular roof. From there we extended a piece up high then pulled some slabby runout moves left back onto the east face (spicy!). This led to a bulging, dirty crack/seam/corner with a fixed nut. The final moves felt about 11ish. The fifth pitch was an easy corner that put us into a gully and finally the 3 bolts atop p4 of Y.F.
I guess we did a variation (Riding Yellow Fin in the Topographic Ocean)?
edit: we also did the Yellow Tail start in the bushy alcove left of the Topo Ocean's first pitch. So I guess we did the "Riding on the Fins of the Yellow Tail in the Topographic Ocean" variation. So many options!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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F*#king birds - no respect. I'll take them over bats tho.
Nice weather out there now. Looking forward to more multipitch sending. Any idea on the east face finish Kdog and I climbed? It was wicked dirty but had a nut at the bulge.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Copy that. We will need to go back and climb it going up the slab to the double cracks and thru the triangular roof.
Really nice route overall. With another anchor station the route could be rapped with a 70 I think.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Oct 12, 2014 - 08:09am PT
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Sorry Moose. Hopefully you can find someone to play nice with you.
Im outa climbing for a while.
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Hickicick
climber
NV
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Oct 12, 2014 - 10:14pm PT
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Anybody have some topos of high energy that they'd be so kind as to share? Its a super cool area and it'd be nice to know about newer routes that aren't in the Anderson guide.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Oct 13, 2014 - 11:08am PT
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Bump for High Energy! That place is the Eagle Lake cliff of Woodfords.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Oct 13, 2014 - 10:13pm PT
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High Energy is like Eagle Lake cliff with 5 spacewalks minus the foreign day hikers.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Oct 14, 2014 - 07:13am PT
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You and yo woman gonna have to make do splashing around in the river.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Oct 30, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
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I've installed anchors on pitch 4 of topo oceans and it can now be rapped with a single 70m. I checked out your original variation, Dan. Bold and spicy is all I have to say. Tough moves on thin to nonexistent gear. Not sure I would want to repeat the route that way. Maybe someday...
Heading down Sunday weather dependent.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Five rigs out at the Fortress yesterday. Wicked cold and a bit windy but overall not awful. No snow on the south-facing side though there was a light dusting up high on the north-facing side
Four of us dashed up Topo Ocean. Tim and Tyson finished via the sick finger crack on Yellow Fin and Patrick and I did the 4th pitch variation of T.O. Saw another party over at the Books.
Weather's looking good for the rest of the week, so it's gonna be primetime at the fords. Get after it!
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Nov 16, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
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Who picked off this gem? Thought it was possibly an FA, until we looked up about 15 ft beyond the corner and saw some old rappel tat.
Thought it was probably a touch harder than Perfect lieback, but similar quality and length. The line is about 150 yards West of the Books area of the Fortress, and a little higher up the hill.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Nov 19, 2014 - 11:00am PT
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I'd have to agree with Tyson. This corner crack is easily as classic as the Perfect Lieback but a bit hard (like 5.9 or so). We removed the tat and installed some anchors at the top. We also found two crack climbs on the east-facing formation below this corner were also classic. A full 30m of perfect hands and fingers in bullet stone.
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kennyt
Trad climber
Oregon
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Nov 28, 2014 - 12:55pm PT
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Lookin good.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Great crag, Dan. John's gonna be upset I went over there and didn't get on his route. He's been telling me to for awhile now.
Went back to Main Alcove on Sat and climbed Serenity Now. Man, it is really good. We also ventured up the hand crack flake, knob job 50 feet right of it (the first pitch of the Unknown 10a in the Anderson guide?).
Next time I want to climb High Jinx to the Albatross. I have no idea what to expect so it should be quite the adventure. I gathered from earlier posts it has belay anchors.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Dec 20, 2014 - 01:54am PT
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Drove thru in AM and out in PM today. Not to muddy the thread any, but saw so many boulders around Luther Pass too.
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Hickicick
climber
NV
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Jan 10, 2015 - 05:11pm PT
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BUMPPPP.
What are some good .11 lines to get on up at the fortress? Just curious what other stuff is up there besides the obvious like hand of god and arrowhead and stuff.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Jan 10, 2015 - 07:39pm PT
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The route just right of Hand of God (forms the right side of the same formation) is a good route. You start thinking it's a gimmie, then you round the corner and it changes up a bit. Good fun, good bolts on top, pro to 3", small wires useful.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Jan 20, 2015 - 10:00pm PT
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Today was warm in the sun, chilly in the shade
And this is prolly as good a place as any to add some pics I had of chim-chim & friends from the gorge around halloween
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 21, 2015 - 04:37pm PT
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Dan
Im cleared to climb again so keep me on your short list....
Out of town this weekend though..
Shawn
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jan 31, 2015 - 08:01am PT
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Small group of us headed out today to the fortress. Too many off us for multi pitch, so I think we will be just cragging 5.easy to 5.11ish. If you're bored and want to sink into some granite you should definitely cruise up. We'll be at the fortress parking in an hour or so.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Someone removed that block, Dan? Probably for the best. I've been out with a shoulder injury for the last few months. Looking forward to getting back out there soon.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Ha, ya Dan, the weekend before last we counted 8 cars at the Fortress. We climbed obscurities so we didn't see hardly anybody though... Kenny H. and I both led Dan-O-Bolt for the first time... verrrry cool stuff. More physical than I had bargained for at the top, but we both grunted through it clean. (more grunting was had by me, I think)
This Saturday, we had some fun on all of The Books area routes (the block was still there when we climbed Cat Scratch) then headed over to Wood Hood, where some of us got our butts whipped on the first pitch of HoG, (although I think I dialed some foot beta on TR that will make it go clean next time), while others cruised the first pitch of Yellow Fin. Then we all finished on Arrowhead. What a route! Didn't get the OS, but I think the RP is definitely going down next time we head up there.
Laine you gotta heal up!
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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For the onsite attempt Kenny and I both thought .11a was stout, but if you know the moves, I think it is fair? It is definitely powerful to get yourself established on that undercling and high enough to clip the bolt. I think we both said either Dan-O is soft or Arrowhead is stiff after climbing it...
Such a cool feature though. And that perfect foothold at the undercling seems like it was placed by a gym setter! Love it when natural lines work out so perfectly like that.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Dan, I've rapped Topo Ocean from the top a few times and never had a problem with a stuck rope. But in hindsight I should have moved that third station 15 feet climber's right.
Sweet pics, Tyson. Looked like a great day up there. I'm hitting basecamp tonight for some strength training and light bouldering if your around. Definitely using those resistance bands. Have a PT session tomorrow so I'll keep at it until I'm 100%.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Hahaha, awesome F.A. story. Without that bolt, .11a would be a quite the bag! And gear in the undercling?? Yikes! The bolt seems impossibly high when you are struggling to leave the lieback of the arrowhead feature, but it turns out to be perfectly placed once you commit.
As far as the yellow fin start, I don't know if I would call it a chimney start, they took the most direct line to get established on the face with the bolt below the mini-roof/bulge. I dont have a pic of it to point out...
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Oh okay, ya then we were definitely on Topo. I thought the Topo Ocean first pitch was just climber's left of the the mini-roof/bulge, which is a large chimney, and leads to the same anchors.
And Dan I would be down to help with the guidebook in any way I could. You can PM me at tyson.waldron@gmail.com
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 22, 2015 - 09:24am PT
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Beautiful day at the fords yesterday. We ran into several first timers up at second alcove. Here's a few shots of Tyson and Kenny sending walking Jack. Next we all worked for the RP on Arrowhead but it wasn't in the cards. Though Tyson was close on his second attempt.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 22, 2015 - 10:09pm PT
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A couple cool ones from the weekend....
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portent
Social climber
your mom's house
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Woodfords this weekend? How's it looking down there?
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portent
Social climber
your mom's house
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Thanks Dan.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Finally got to check this place out with a couple of Reno folks. Got on Perfect Lieback, Whisker Biscuit, Quoia the Destroya, I Be Jammin, and a hanging TR of Walking Jack. Pretty awesome climbing!
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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^Whiskerbiscuit?
We adventured today. Were heading to the tiers but arrived to find them shady and snowy so we dropped back down one set of cliffs and found something dirty. The crux of the line came after I cleaned it and had to downclimb the snow filled gully to the left
By the time that was done the First Tier had had it's share of sun and was back in the shade with the base still in the snow so we headed to the apron.
After backing off I climbed the crack out of picture to the left so as to retrieve my gear. Who knew you could just scramble up to the balcony from the other side
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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In that first pic it looks like the line has some sporty pro.
What do u think it goes at?
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Wasn't too difficult. Maybe 5.8.
He removed some pro both at the bottom left (because of my position in the talus snow mix) and just below the roof/corner (for rope drag).
The face had some small to medium loose blocks and the dark corner and summit had some very big ones.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Cool, and a new route is born. This is on the trail to the Tiers? Is the walk off easy?
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Not easy. Currently snowy and slick with a 10' foot drop at the bottom (there's some placements though). Also thorny and willowy. There was a tree at the top to rappel from though but I had tossed the rope thinking the down climb would be a piece of cake.
Also it's not new. there was a tattered piece of webbing on the backside of the summit block Josh is on.
To the left out of pic there was also a fun looking crescent shaped flake to corner that ended up at the tree.
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Hickicick
climber
NV
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Mar 11, 2015 - 10:48am PT
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Hey looking for a partner for saturday! I want to do a link up of Hand of God, Yellow Fin, and Topographic oceans before heading out of town for a week. If anyone's interested let me know! Call or shoot me a text 775-720-8195.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Apr 27, 2015 - 09:47pm PT
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Hey DanK, finally climbed that finger crack on the east face of The hand of God formation. Man that thing is stellar. Had 4 0.4 c4s and used them all.
Did a few short routes on the formation to the east of it as well. A stout 5.9 corner and another 5.11 off fingers corner thru a roof to chimney. Both pack a real punch. Can you rap to the ground from those climbs climber's right of the east face of HoG? We weren't sure so we climbed a splitter 5.7 back to the top of HoG and rapped the standard route.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Apr 28, 2015 - 10:54pm PT
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Photo bump of the above routes. All were really good.
What's the story on the awesome looking corner to the left of the .10c finger pitch?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2015 - 07:57pm PT
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Laine,
just saw your page at MP for Woodfords, Cloudburst Canyon.
That's an excellent writeup and description. Way to go. Glad
to read you guys are having good times out there!
"Ominous and famed." I love it!!
Love the organizational makeover for Woodfords too.
Not sure when that came about exactly but it sure makes
a lot more sense now!
Nice to see OoTD still pulling a unanimous 4 star rating.
Who will be the first I wonder to give it three stars. HAHAHA!!!
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Boy, this thread sure feels lonely now...
What are the chances anyone has beta on The Lost World? Dan showed me a topo of it once, and spoke of some of the best rock in the canyon, but I never got up there.
...Thinking of making an investigatory assault on the area with a couple partners this weekend.
Or if anyone has a good way to reach Dan, I'd love to pick his brain for a few moments.
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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Get ready for a hike to get up there!
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Ya, it looks like a mission, but am no stranger to big hikes in that canyon...
...At least the shady side isn't Kitty Litter....
With an alpine start and a team of three we should be able to lug enough water beer and food to make the conditions livable.
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Dan works at Sports LTD near Stateline in South Lake Tahoe. It is located in the Village Center (Raley's shopping center)
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Photo bump for a sadly quiet thread...
We ended up getting up to the Lost World that weekend in June, found some fun stuff. Not all areas we climbed are pictured, but if you wanna find out more you'll just have to hike your tired butt up there and explore for yourselves...
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Donnici
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Anybody have a copy of the topo pdf?
Looks like an awesome place.
The link is not working.
Cheers
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Sep 16, 2015 - 09:34pm PT
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Nice pics, thanks.
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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Sep 17, 2015 - 03:11pm PT
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WA chims chims 50th bday yesterday, mucho saki waki!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Sep 18, 2015 - 11:40am PT
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I'm looking forward to those cool Fall days on the north side of the canyon. There's much to be done. Anyone checked out Crystal Wall? It hosts Tumbledown House, an airy 5.11 that climbed a very unique band of rock for two pitches.
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little Z
Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
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Sep 18, 2015 - 06:46pm PT
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from Monday of Labor Day weekend. Cloudburst Canyon, there were half a dozen cars in the parking area. Great weather.
We did five climbs up on the 2nd tier on the right side of the canyon.
Tom, Dave, Brian gearing up in morning sun.
Dave on the easiest one
rock, rock, everywhere
had this thing to admire all day long
Dave leading up the right most climb, now in the welcome shade
neighbors on climbs further up canyon (sunlit slab on right, and crack behind tree on left)
a fine time was had by all
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sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
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Oct 15, 2015 - 01:21pm PT
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so... who ever the idiot is, who's been marking a perfectly clear trails with orange chalk, please stop. Everyone is sick of seeing your unnecessary graffiti in Cloudburst Canyon. Thank you
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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Oct 17, 2015 - 12:55pm PT
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Snap line chalk? Wtf, is someone building a house out there!? I dare you to get lost out there, weirdos
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Can't comment on the Summer side graffiti, sounds pointless and stupid. but we did make our way up to the Winter side today...
The trail has been obstructed by I guess tons of forest service work, piles upon piles of manzanita and pine trees that have been completely cut out of the landscape. Not sure I understand why this was done, but the trail is pretty non existent down low anymore.
We didn't really have any objectives in mind, but wanted to end up on the hand of god formation and maybe do something on it to finish the day... We started out at Donnie G and scrambled our way through some pretty cool (mostly .9 and below) mostly virgin feeling and dirty terrain.
At the top of our wandering pitch #4, I built an anchor below an awesome but imposing corner system, that was slightly overhanging hands to fingers. It ended up being the highlight of the day and felt like it checked in at solid .10+.
By the time we got to the summit of HoG, it was raining, we tried to wait things out but conditions never really broke, so we bailed from there. cool day though!
Anyone know what this corner is? I think it is on or very near the Albatross formation?
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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I doubt they would ever be able to spot us, what with all the heaps of trash and hordes of people hitting up the fords these days. Times they are a changin. It was so bad this weekend we were the only car in the canyon...
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sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
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Tyson, looks like you climbed Hand Banana...cool. Sash That corner is Called The West Coast Corner...hex anchor on top. Needs a proper anchor, will do soon.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Nice pics, Ty. Squeaked out some routes before the monster storm. Well done! Thanks for the beta, Sasha. It's fun piecing together all of the awesomeness the Fortress provides, one jam at a time...
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Thanks Sasha, what are the ratings on either? Were we way off on our .10+ assessment of hand banana? switching from the slammer hands to the fingers was a bit testy...
Laine if this winter shows up for real, the Fords might end up being our go-to spot! not much else stays tolerable in real sierra winter scenarios.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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I'll take that scenario any day! I remember post holing up to the Fortress in the winter of 2010-11 and climbing in freezing temps.
As any aside, Hound Mouth this Sat at Cargo???
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jeebus, make it a weekend hall pass! I can't take the stress of having to last minute bail on you anymore! haha and make it happen soon, bishop was way too fun, I'm still laughing... and talking in that voice haha.
Laine all signs point to yes.
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kennyt
Trad climber
Oregon
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Jan 31, 2016 - 01:31pm PT
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Looks like a pretty fun place.
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kennyt
Trad climber
Oregon
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Jan 31, 2016 - 02:16pm PT
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I may have to one day.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 13, 2016 - 09:01am PT
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anyone know if the fortress is in good climbing shape right now?
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Feb 13, 2016 - 02:13pm PT
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I would have to say yes. Haven't been down there but based on that exposure up here at the lake I would think it would be good to go.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 13, 2016 - 07:00pm PT
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Cool, we're gonna give it a go tomorrow, try and tick a corner system just to the climber's right of hand of god... I've looked at it forever and never managed to get on it. Will report back here with photos.
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Madabbor
Sport climber
Incline Village, NV
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Feb 13, 2016 - 10:36pm PT
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Trying to get down there Tuesday the 16th with my cousin for first time...supposed to be 62 in Tahoe...anyone PM me if you want to guide us around.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 15, 2016 - 09:23am PT
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The Fortress is in prime condition right now, not sure why I had any doubt... The "Right Hand of God" line i've wanted to get on forever was really good. I'd put the rating somewhere around .10+/.11- It has a brief heartbreaker finish on small wires, but other wise is solid liebacking and hand and fist jams. Not anywhere as sustained as the final pitch of HoG, which is why I think the rating fits in there somewhere.
It has hardware at the top, so this is not uncharted territory, (not that I thought it would be) I just have never managed to get info on this one from Dan or others. If anyone knows the rating/name/history post it up!
Pulling around the mini-roof on this climb provided the best exposure I've found anywhere at Woodfords. We also got on smearing for jesus as an approach pitch (harder than I remember) and Kenny RP'd Sun Wall Left, and we finished on Perfect Lieback as a night cap on a great day...
Get out to the Fords! Prime conditions, dry stone.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Feb 15, 2016 - 04:36pm PT
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Man, that looks cool.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Feb 20, 2016 - 08:57pm PT
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Just realized how close this place is for us now that we are in Bishop.
Planning on a trip very soon! Stoked, and thanks for the thread, Footloose!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Feb 20, 2016 - 10:58pm PT
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I get to drive by there on one of my side jobs alot.
I would call it an easy 2 hours north of Mammoth if you use the golf course (7/ 11 store)
shortcut before Gardnerville.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 26, 2016 - 11:04pm PT
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Another stellar day at the Fortress today. Temps could not be better right now.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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As soon as Skippy's torn calf heals, we are planning a trip up!
Probably mid-late March.
Woohoo! A new place!
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Hickicick
climber
NV
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Tyson and I got out to the Tiers and checked out Golden Shower yesterday. Leading it I opted for the path of least resistance and went up the a dirty little chimney. The direct finish looked pretty rad though, and cleaner. For its short size its pumpy and has everything from .4 to 4's! South side of the canyon is getting into season. Also, has anybody ever been on the right traversing roof halfway up one of these days? It looks pretty sweet!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jul 18, 2016 - 04:31pm PT
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Been quiet round these parts as of late. The southside is primetime right now, so I'm throwing down some good old climbing porn.
Tyson getting ionized on Neutron!
Taken by yours truly on 7/17/16 at High Energy Wall.
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jose gutierrez
Trad climber
sacramento,ca
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Jul 18, 2016 - 11:09pm PT
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^Is that splitter to the left Proton?! Looks amazing, thanks for sharing Laine!
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Jul 18, 2016 - 11:16pm PT
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that's a beauty pic!
but omg that crack he's got his left foot in looks awesome:)
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jul 19, 2016 - 08:27am PT
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That splitter is part of Neutron, though you could climb it by itself. Proton is an enduro finger crack, to the left of it (next corner over), and the splitter cuts directly over to the Proton anchors.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jul 19, 2016 - 12:10pm PT
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Thanks alot Laine, this photo is gonna blow the lid right off the place....we're gonna be waiting in line next time we roll into the canyon.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jul 19, 2016 - 04:28pm PT
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Sorry about the spray, Tyson. Maybe we need to set your drone to defend-mode to keep the hordes at bay.
Oh and BTW
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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May 11, 2017 - 07:46pm PT
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Anyone have info on what is above the 5.8 hand crack in the books? I've heard of another pitch but don't know for sure. If so, would belaying from the Cat Scratch Fever anchors be feasible so as to keep an eye on the dogs below (and be visible to them)?
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sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
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May 12, 2017 - 09:37am PT
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Milty and I placed an anchor above The Books prolly 80 feet up. Needs some chain ...old tat by now. The left hand arête is 5.6r, the center route is 5.8 we climbed to the left of the annoying little tree. The right hand route is 5.7r. Good stuff
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Been daydreaming of the 'Fords as of late.... Who's been up?
I would imagine both sides are nearly climbable depending on the day? Fortress was calling my name last Sat (2/3/18), but her siren call wasn't strong enough. Maybe this weekend.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2018 - 01:06pm PT
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Hi T?S Tyson,
Any interest on running a few laps on OoTD on Sunday, noonish on? for a bit of an outdoors workout? Noticed weather's turning down a bit this sat, sun and mon though, I'm spoiled, I like warm super sunny weather, especially locally!
I'd be interested as season opens up, for sure.
You're from Reno. Are you a member of Mesa Rim per chance? I am and I climb there a couple times a week. Maybe we could meet up?
Edit, below: Hi Marc! :)
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msiddens
Trad climber
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bump for footloose sighting
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2018 - 12:31pm PT
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Anybody for Woodfords, either side, this Friday noonish?
Weather looks good. If so, let me know here. Thanks!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2018 - 05:56pm PT
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Hi Supertopo,
How's the Fortress approach looking now, anyone know?
I'm thinking of attending Wed or Thurs. Is it free of
snow? Thanks for any info!
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Dec 31, 2018 - 10:32am PT
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great conditions yesterday. T-shirts mid-day before the high clouds came in. no snow up to the south facing crags.
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