Woodfords Canyon

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Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 1, 2010 - 01:22pm PT
Warmer longer days are right around
the corner. Looking forward to workout
sessions in Woodfords to get fit for
High Sierra climbs this Spring and Summer.

Flexible times, weekdays and weekends. Anytime
weather is sunny.

Laps on One of These Days (5.10c) is a real workout.

Here's another I hope to play on soon:
Credit: Footloose

It's on sunny winterside but in the shade.
Lot's of off-width work. Rumor says it goes
5.11.

Anyone interested? PM me and let's go!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 1, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
That looks cool.
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
Mar 1, 2010 - 08:49pm PT
wow, my KNEES are sweating!!
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Mar 1, 2010 - 09:04pm PT
My knees are hurting and bruised! But maybe that's because of my first visit to Generator Crack yesterday... after a few swings into the tree on toprope, I stuck a stamp on that postcard and sent it.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 1, 2010 - 09:15pm PT
Any cracks out that way?
leonardo

climber
davis, CA
Mar 1, 2010 - 09:51pm PT
What are the conditions right now?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
Donini- Tons of cracks on single and
half-pitch climbs. (Hey, c'mon out
and take on Positive Vibrations with
me this summer, I'll let you lead the
crux pitches!)

Leonardo- I haven't been out there yet this
season but according to Chim-Chim, a
local, snow's pretty much melted out on winterside
and pockets of summer heat on sunny days.

Woohoo! :)

Generator Crack-
This burly offwidth is easily toproped and seldom led. The crux comes just a few feet off the ground but the climbing remains physical and sustained to the top. Some advanced offwidth climbers use the "leavittation" technique but most climbers just throw in a knee, make a chicken wing, and struggle. Wear long sleeves and pants and you may want to tape your hands and ankles. Climb this route in cooler temperatures--even if it is near freezing the strenuous moves will keep you warm. Don't be discouraged if it takes you multiple visits to this climb to finally get it. Once you do, you?ll be ready to tackle most 5.10 and easier offwidths and squeeze chimneys in Yosemite.

Right on, Nutjob!

This means you're ropegun-
capable for offwidths this summer.
Woohoo!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 1, 2010 - 10:59pm PT
Nice send, Nutjob!
Madbolter

Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
Mar 4, 2010 - 04:28pm PT
Haha, my eyes only see face climbs.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
Still trying to line up
partners for this season's
workouts.

EDIT 5:22p Msiddens- look forward to it,
you're always on my short list!
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
Mar 7, 2010 - 12:39pm PT
Bill, I'm up for workout in the season.
Chim-Chim

climber
Mar 7, 2010 - 06:30pm PT
Wet... on thursday although we managed to tr a few seeping lines. With sunday's sunshine, conditions should improve by Monday... at least for the base routes. By tuesday the adventure should resume it's normal absurdity. So much rock that it hurts. I wish human cloning was legal then I could get something done. Too easy if ya know what I mean.
Credit: Chim-Chim


Chim


Jim D. Nothing but cracks the invite still stands ... it's good to hear your back from Patagonia. Check out the woodfords section on Mountain Project. Just scraching the surface of a gem in the rough. D.K.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 7, 2010 - 06:34pm PT
Footloose,
I'll do PV with you if you stay around to do the one just to the left- forgot it's name. It's a little harder than PV.
Chim Chim, I'm coming. Is Summer too hot?
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Mar 7, 2010 - 06:36pm PT
Is there anything up-canyon, near hope valley outdoors (is it still called that that, I used to work there) and the campground?

Seems like just cross canyon (at the bend in the canyon to the right when you're going downhill) there is some potential and just behind hope valley outdoors on the hillside is a spectacular roof crack.

Joyce, my old boss used to tell me stories about her days chilling with climbers in the valley in the '70's and even better stories about Dan-O climbing that roof crack behind the store.

Brandon-
Chim-Chim

climber
Mar 7, 2010 - 06:45pm PT
The left leaning corner behind hope valley store was climbed by Dan-o don't know the details.... looks kinda tough. There is quite alot of potential at the top of the canyon on both sides but it's a bit early. The conditions should be good by May up there. Meanwhile there's plenty down valley to keep you busy. Chim
Chim-Chim

climber
Mar 7, 2010 - 06:49pm PT
Jim the stuff on the north side of the road is too hot, but the shady south side of the road is perfect. Unlimted free camping!
Credit: Chim-Chim

Just scratching around. Chim
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Mar 7, 2010 - 07:25pm PT
Chim
Ah the pics got me drooling again.
Im ready to hook up with you again for another great year up in the 'fords and finish up with "information catolog"!!!!
Hope you guys are doing great!!!!!
Shawn
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 08:27pm PT
Donini- Nice to hear! What did you have in mind,
CTC (twice) or camping? PM me with the details you
have in mind. Might have to "grab and go" in places on
Sunspot (quite more sustained than PV) but yeah!
Up close and personal on Sunspot would be sweet. If
aided, I'd just have to come back and get it free later.
Right? ;)

Chim- If the weather's good this week, count me in. Nice
to have you back.

Chim wrote-
I wish human cloning was legal then I could get something done.


Ha!
skychild

Trad climber
Birmingham, Alabama
Mar 8, 2010 - 01:54pm PT
I finally got up there to climb. I got a tour from a local who seemed to have alot of information about climbs
Credit: skychild
5.12b that aren't found in the Woodfords pdf file. The rock is a bit coarse in spots but the jam cracks are some of the best i've seen in the Tahoe area. Not to be missed if you like pure crack climbing. Potential is nearlly unlimited but you mighht be dissapointed that the f.a. that you just did has evidence of a prior ascent. Thousands of fine climbs if you like adventure. I sure would have liked to have busy in recent years as the number of new climbs has increased dramatically... but there's still lots to do. Don
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Mar 9, 2010 - 12:20pm PT
Glad you liked the area skychild...
A lot of work has gone into the area by Chim-Chim and many other locals over the years. Potential..unlimited..
Shawn
just a little teaser of summer climbing in the 'fords'
just a little teaser of summer climbing in the 'fords'
Credit: BurnRockBurn
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2010 - 10:10am PT
Weather's supposed to be nice
this Sun-Mon. Anyone want to go?
Chim-Chim

climber
Mar 15, 2010 - 12:44pm PT
Credit: Chim-Chim
We got out there Bill. It was kind of cold if you left the base routes. We managed to climb three new lines. A 105 foot 5.11b with a left-facing flake(5.10a) leads to a ramp and thin finger crack crux(tree anchor). The second climb followa a double crack in a left-facing corner to a fist finish(5.10a). The third climb shares the anchor with second climb. A 5.11a clean left-facing corner leads to a roof crack and bombay flair 5.11+++. If a friable foot breaks the grade wii be bumped up to 5.12b or so, very pumpy and awkward. These climb would be climbed regularly if the were base routes, but they're about 400 feet off the deck in a "hanging" terrace. We're going up on Tuesady to finsh up some anchor work and tick off a few more routes. Give a shout. Dan

The first climb is located on the east face of the prominent leaning tower(third formation from the right) which host's the classic four pitch Hand of God(5.11c). The other new east-facing) climbs are located on the terrace to the east of the Hand of God Tower. 135 routes on the winter side and counting. Twice as much winter cragging than Sugarloaf and Phantom Spires combined! The rock may not be as fine grained but the potential for exploration is seeemingly unlimited. Check out Mountain Project for recent entries. D.K.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#130520
stella

climber
cali
Mar 17, 2010 - 07:30pm PT
difficult decision between here and sugarloaf.....but never been to woodfords, and it sounds pretty damn good. so headed there with a couple friends for thursday and friday. already printed off the guidebook from the obscurities page. any y'all locals got any more beta on where to go this time of year? cliffs, routes, access, whatever info would be great. also wondering what the camping situation is. is there any dispersed camping in those parts if the stuff by the river is snowed in? coming from truckee, so its just a bit too long for a day trip....seems like we'll need at least a couple days anyways to get a feel for the place. thanks, matt
Chim-Chim

climber
Mar 18, 2010 - 12:38am PT
Stella, check out the info on Mt. Project>Tahoe Vicinity>Woodfords Canyon> There's some nice routes rthat aren't in the old guide. Also carefully follow the approach directions... even if your going to the Sun Wall... don't get suckered up the sandy descent trail(EWe have seen several parties suffer unnessesarily on the "approach" Go further up the trail towards the rocky knoll, then go up and back right. If you go up too early you'll be "worked" we're going up Thurs see you there. Dan
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2010 - 12:41am PT
Hey Chim!

I was just coming here, you
beat me to it.

Saw Ryan in the gym, tonite.
Let's get on Big Bad Wolf with the
good weather!

I'm ready to stand in snow even
and get down on OOTD.

EDIT Stella- no problem with
camping. Sunny Winter Side is
clear of snow. Easy camping
everywhere, that's what I'd do.
Have fun.
stella

climber
cali
Mar 18, 2010 - 01:15am PT
thanks guys....got some of the stuff off mountain project, looks like plenty to entertain. hopefully we'll run into you and i can scum some more beta...we'll be the ones with two big dogs. cheers, matt
Chim-Chim

climber
Mar 19, 2010 - 01:44pm PT
Matt< It was nice meeting you guys I hope you had a fun time... nice job on Whisker Biscuit. Give a shout if you plan on heading out there again we'll meet up and I'll show you some of the Multi-pitch classics.
Credit: Chim-Chim
Dan
stella

climber
cali
Mar 20, 2010 - 12:33am PT
dan-

thanks for all the beta. we didn't get a whole ton of climbing in today (my partners left around 1 PM) but checked out the Books area. the 5.8 was phenomenal, and cat scratch fever was cool too (except for the death flake low on the route). didn't get on any of the harder or newer stuff this time, next time i'll check it out. o.u.l.d. and mr. personality looked pretty cool, the rock is reminiscent of the new stuff in pine creek near bishop. overall, woodfords gets a BIG thumbs up! everything we got on was 4-5 star quality, and we barely scratched the surface. looking forward to a guidebook coming out, kind of hard to find your way around there on your own....a little too much rock. i'd have to say that woodfords is probably my new winter destination (sorry sugarloaf). anyways thanks for all your hard work, i'll hit you up next time i'm in the area. cheers, matt
Chim-Chim

climber
Mar 20, 2010 - 01:26am PT
Matt, thanks for the positive review. It is awesome huh? The guide is close to completion. I'm meeting with a possible publisher(hopefully) within the next couple of weeks to finish up a year long project. We're establishing many new routes to add to the 138 climbs on the winter side. The place is very complicated and hpoefully the information I've gleaned over the last ten years during the recent renesience sp? with help visiting climbers appreciate how fantastic this place really is. ut please don't think that woodfords has only winter climbing. There's plenty to do on the other side of the road.
Credit: Chim-Chim
See you up there! Dan
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Mar 20, 2010 - 01:40am PT
Really looking forward to your guide Dan ...Although it might be the demise of that little "gem" of an area....Been occassionally falling my way up classics around "Fords" since the 70's. Your devotion to the area is admirable. Best wishes and keep up the good work.
Chim-Chim

climber
Mar 20, 2010 - 11:02am PT
Mark, thanks for the words of encouragement. The guide has taken quite awhile to take shape. Recent additional routes has forced me to rewrite and edit regularly. There will be thirty or so topos, many beta photo shots, and very extensive narratives of route approaches as well as a brief written description of each climb. There seems to be alot more bodies going up there since the old guide came out as a pdf file. Hopefully this guide will help people find the climbs easier and keep everyone on the "beaten" path, as well as spread out the traffic as most parties congregate around The Sun Wall and Winter Prime areas. Still with all of the recent development, we've only just scratched the surface and there is no doubt that exploration will continue for a long time for any onr who willing to get filthy. Peace Dan
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2010 - 01:23pm PT
Visited obscure sections of Woodfords Canyon this weekend.
Credit: Footloose

Anyone know anything about this corner crack above the Epoxy Wall. Chim?
Credit: Footloose


Too bad some obscurities are 1,000 vertical feet
or more up the hill. I haven't tried any of these.
They look to be pretty nice.
Credit: Footloose

It was a beautiful day. Here you can look down
on the highway and see cars of climbers who are up on the Fortress:
Credit: Footloose

For anyone who wishes to explore the area, this photo looks
down on the highway and the backside of the famous Big Bertha.
Credit: Footloose

Higher up:
Credit: Footloose

Credit: Footloose

FYI, One of these Days, a Woodfords Classic on the South
Side is now in the sun in the afternoon. Climbers were there
on Sunday.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2010 - 10:02am PT
Where are you, Chim-Chim?

What's that corner crack called
above the Epoxy Wall and what's it
go at?
Chim-Chim

climber
May 5, 2010 - 12:53pm PT
Footloose. just got back from the busy ditch. A couple of friends are one day away from topping out on the nose and have done a great job at representing the W3oodfords.
To answer your question... the crack up and left of Epoxy Wall is a stout 5.9+. There's another crack in a corner located up and right from the epoxy wall(5.9) that is a nice diversion on the way to the upper walls that you took photos fo... I've climbed the walls up there but there are. no fixed anchors bring extra long cordage to sling blocks then walk off east down the dry gully... it's loose so be very careful. Dan
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2010 - 02:58pm PT
Chim, thanks. Good to know.

I actually didn't get to its base. I
got distracted by another path to another
interest.

Please take my photo if you can and mark up your
approach to this crack. This would be so
helpful.

FL


P.S. Give it a name so I can talk about
climbing it- this 5.9+. It's the one I want to
do.
Tattooed 1

Trad climber
Sebastopol, Ca
May 5, 2010 - 03:03pm PT
Hey Chim,
Is there any published topo info available yet? If so where can I get it?
Tim
Chim-Chim

climber
May 6, 2010 - 12:03am PT
Tattooed 1, I'm sorry, but no up to date complete guide is available but the Woodfords obscurities pdf file coupled with info Mt. project should get you going in the mean time. Feel free to give me an email if you'd like a tour. Dan
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
Spent yesterday at One Of These
Days. FYI, it is once again in the sun.
Credit: Footloose

The best 5.10c in Lake Tahoe:
Credit: Footloose

Took 3 laps on this baby.
(dang, have to clean the dust off the lens...)

Another view:
Credit: Footloose


If I weren't so sore, alas, I'd be back there today.
Happy climbing everybody in Lake Tahoe and the High Sierras
this summer!


Chim-Chim

climber
May 17, 2010 - 11:10am PT
Footloose, I think I found yer baseball cap! I'm heading to yosemite tues though fri, I'll give you a shout when I get back. Oh yeah we just cleaned a straight in finger and hand crack that may rival ootd as the best 5.10c... unfortunately it' three pitcheds up its called Finger Bang. Dan
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
May 17, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
Chim

Give me a shout when you get back. Have fun in the Ditch.
Foot...we all need to hook up sometime.

Shawn
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2010 - 05:11pm PT
Chim- Wonderful news!
Good luck down there. Have fun!

Call or email when ready Shawn, when you can make
it. Any time.

It's raining here, now, today.
Which is good. My flowerbeds need it.
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
May 21, 2010 - 03:08am PT
Boys and girls, cross-posting a recent TR to the Fortress area:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1174042/TR-2010-05-Woodfords-Widefest-Lite

We were suckered into the sandy direct ascent! Too lazy to keep going to the knoll :)

There really is an amazing amount of route potential up there... just cataloging it all is going to be an effort similar to the Jtree guidebook.

Footloose and msiddens, I was definitely thinking of you boys when I headed up there! Overall I'm still in the midst of my Yosemite obsession years, but I'll keep spicing it up with Woodfords as needed.

msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
May 21, 2010 - 01:56pm PT
Thanks Nutjob- same here....heading to the Valley (again) but Spring is coming to a close.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 21, 2010 - 02:41pm PT
I'm Valley bound too. But, I'm planning to get over there soon...
Chim-Chim

climber
May 22, 2010 - 11:43am PT
Footloose, Just got back from the Valley... it went reasonabally well. I wouldn't say I've climbed Astroman... more like the East face of Washington collumn(twice)! The Harding Slot was a little wet but went ok.. with a brief hang. I'm tired and kinda beat up.
Nutjob. I'm glad everyone has been enjoying the Woodfords... lots of stuff to do still. Don't be surprised though, at least in the Fortress area, that a good looking line may have a shiny stainless steel anchor on top... we've been very busy up there. And you're correct about the difficulty in cateloging all of the climbs up there... 25,ooo words, 40 drawn topos, beta photos, trail discriptions have kept me busy for more than a year now and is still a project in work with all the new climbs going up.
On the other side of the road is very raw still, but filthy. Hundreds if thousands more lines, are located in the many gully systems that rise from thesouth side of the road.
Credit: Chim-Chim
See youall up there in the summer months. Check out Mt. Project if you want some options that are not inclluded in the Pdf file book Written by Ron Anderson. Dan
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
May 22, 2010 - 12:41pm PT
Dan
We still on for Mondays photo session?
Chim-Chim

climber
May 22, 2010 - 12:51pm PT
Sound good if the weather cooperates. Give me a shout. Dan
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 22, 2010 - 01:05pm PT
Astroface is a cool send.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2010 - 03:54pm PT
Jaybro- Why not grab Zander or Em or Nutjob, come up, it'll give us a chance to meet, and I'll show you the wide in the first picture. It's called the Big Bad Wolf and getting to it is an effectively nice calorie burner. (If that's part of your goal structure.) :)

Chim- Can't wait to hear all about it. Makes me terribly envious. I'd ask if I could join you and Shawn Monday but think the weather's going to be sketch:

http://forecast.weather.gov:80/MapClick.php?lat=38.770145674423965&lon=-119.84024047851562&site=rev&smap=1&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text


Thanks again for snagging my cap, I climb a whole number lower without it.



Siddens- Your climbing in Yosemite makes me all ancy and jealous inside when I think about it- so I try not to think about it. But good on ya!
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
May 23, 2010 - 01:54am PT
Dan, Sasha and Friends of Woodfords
I would like to get a little group together up there for some camping and story telling as well as sharing beta on the areas. I am willing to BBQ my ass off to feed anyone and make arrangements for a little Woodfords Fest.
If anyone is interested please let me know and we can start planning some dates or two.
Thanks

Shawn Watson


Footy 20% Chance of Slight Snow 46 degrees ...Its a Woodfords Day!!!!!
dickcilley

Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
Jun 28, 2010 - 04:12pm PT
Hope to be there Thursday .Hope I can find something to TR. solo.
Chim-Chim

climber
Jun 28, 2010 - 04:35pm PT
Dick, are you still riding that bike? I met you in J'tree like twenty years ago. Heh a buddy and I are heading up on thursday give a shout. Dan
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2010 - 05:54pm PT
Big guns at Woodfords yesterday:
Credit: Footloose

Big strength, too:
Credit: Footloose
Credit: Footloose

Route beta: One Of These Days route is easier now,
a half square foot flake peeled off face- establishing
MORE purchase on lower section. Now is this
good or bad? Hmm...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jun 28, 2010 - 05:58pm PT
Shut up and CLIMB! LOL (jk) I always thought it was under-rated so its still the best 10c in Tahoe....
Chim-Chim

climber
Jun 28, 2010 - 06:08pm PT
Ron, check out the Steeple Thread, that I started today. I think the original name was The Agulle de Dread. There's a link for route information from Mt. Project. Have you ever been there? Also where that 200 foot splitter,,, I can't find it. Dan
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jun 28, 2010 - 06:10pm PT
Ill take a look as for the splitter, R U talking about the one at the grovers wall or pleasant valley??
Chim-Chim

climber
Jun 28, 2010 - 06:15pm PT
Either or, or both I gotsta know. Thanks Dan
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jun 28, 2010 - 06:35pm PT
ok,,,, from grovers hot springs meadow (just west of the tubs) look to the north west at about the top of the bottom 1/3 of the slope. there is some granite there and one wall that is about 120 or so that can be plainly seen. on the right hand edge of that wall is a parallel splitter corner that looks to drool over....there are more things there two as well as a runout 5.9/10 offwidth/chimney and crack which was two 80 foot pitches that we did lol, i doubt its ever seen a second....



the other one im thinking of is abit more complex to find although you can see it with binoculars from just up the pleasant valley trail head-looking west and up the SOUTH facing slope towards the end of the valley...Its the inside corner of a large buttress Ill try to find a pic or better beta for the approach...I know its shorter to come in by jeff davis peak from the blue lakes road side but you end up at the top of the formations....
Chim-Chim

climber
Jun 28, 2010 - 07:00pm PT
Thanks for the info. Dan
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 1, 2010 - 02:09pm PT
Chim and Footy
Im off the next six days and may be able to get up there with you guys on one of my days off. Let me know.
Shawn
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 1, 2010 - 02:34pm PT
Footloose, did you Sic Em on that wyde crack on the original post? Been back to that thing?

Watch out for that Cilley guy....
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2010 - 10:07pm PT
Jaybro, no I'm saving the Big Bad Wolf
for you! Grab the gang, or even one, come on up,
we'll get on it.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 1, 2010 - 11:58pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson



a little bit of hysteric-- oops historical photos LOL...

"in the 70s" is a nice lil woodfords unit i think the date was 1979.Me on the fa...

In the pic on the left, is one of the crags above Grovers hot springs,, DAN,,,, one of the splitter corners can be seen (the top of it) on the right side of the wall im on.there are five routes we put up in 77. including an aid route that would no doubt go free now.... click on the pics for an enlargement....
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 2, 2010 - 09:55pm PT
bump for Dan so ya dont have to dig for it...
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2010 - 10:35pm PT
No one but us (B,S,R) at OOTD buttress, today,
it was beautiful.

But I missed my cap.


EDIT

Ron, why not come on down one of these
days, check it out. We could talk taxidermy,
used to do as a kid.

Maybe you remember a place called Jepedos
in Carson City, circa 1974, chockfull of animal
hides and specimens.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 3, 2010 - 12:20am PT
I need to get to the canyon to see whay you guys are up to!! Heck Yeah I remember Japedos!! Didnt they have one of those "back rooms" LOL!!!!
Chim-Chim

climber
Jul 3, 2010 - 01:41am PT
Number 69 yeah! We've been up past the Steeple climbing on some of the best rock in the canyon. We found a rare 5.8 1300 ft.+ above the canyon floor. a beautiful but pristine(filthy) corner with excellent thin hand jamming and small stemming foot holds, 70 ft. It shares an anchor with a 5.11b project... it needs two bolts for pro. A liitle farther down canyon two new climbs share a two bolt anchor the corner is 5.10a and the splitter finger crack to arete to wide hand crack checks in at 5.11d. A lone bolt protects some moves above a hard to place nut. Without it decking could be a definate possibility. We're getting a new camera so I'll be posting pictures regularlly...sorry.

Funny huh Bill how people fight the crowds when they could have a "real wilderness experience" with such little hardship. with a repeated invitation... no takers. They don't want to know what they're missing its been obvious for a while now. People need to be around other people we;re social animals and the lack of traffic in a neglected area proves it.
Maybe if someone with a bigger reputation among the members of this forum statred to express intersest the area. it would get the attention it sorely deserves... heh when Nut job had a T.R. about the Woodfords people we're all Pysched up. When I try to share some valuable info I just hear crickets. :{ I guess I don'T rate to well... but I don;t care
Credit: Chim-Chim
Credit: Chim-Chim
photo not found
Missing photo ID#130520
Credit: Chim-Chim
photo not found
Missing photo ID#130520
photo not found
Missing photo ID#130520

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 3, 2010 - 11:06am PT
Chim,,,,Relax and enjoy.....Woodfors is the place to "get away". Its always been like that....Here it sets in close proximity to populations yet sets peacefully by..THus its true beauty! Some day it will not be like that....dont be in a hurry.....
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 3, 2010 - 11:11am PT
Wessy, Bertha is "quite stable"..... Actually the crack/corners above the apoxie wall is where bertha came from!!! you can match up right where she used to be above the apoxie wall....tid bit o info....
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2010 - 12:21pm PT
Missed you yesterday, Chim, I'll call you next
week to see if you get out. No worries about spreading
the word, we love ya for what you do. ;)

(Why's that farm animal on top of that little dog?)
Chim-Chim

climber
Jul 3, 2010 - 12:49pm PT
Sorry Ron, I'll try to relax, but when you here about a route that people say is obscure when it sits twenty feet to the right of one of the most popular climb at the leap, it get my gander up. You should definatally come up soon, the place is going off! If people start coming up on a regular basis we wouldn't have to get out the brush every spring, and instead we could focus on new stuff. I feel a certain resposibility to make sure the older routes stay in condition, but I'd rather just see chalk from recent ascents rather than cobwebs and new munge. But thats life... and it's way better than working. See you soon. We'll be in Cloudburst Canyon Monday and maybe tuesday. Come on up.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 3, 2010 - 01:06pm PT
LOL,,,, No worries Chimmer!! Back in da day we never said a peep about the canyon -- theres at least about fourty routes that didnt even make the guide...Besides, what R U doing repeating routes LOL!!!!!


In all honesty I do commend you for the efforts as well as your love for that special place.. Its gone through quite a transmogrification over the years. I was on the acorn fire that took out the south facing side in under two hours...Gots tons of memories in that canyon...even came face to face 24" away from a mtn kitty there once- only time in my life i was scared speechless..... The panoramic views from the rock there are imo stunning...One of the routes never mentioned was a "section 20" type venture thats composed of about 800 feet of climbing- on very good stuff!!

I would have thought by now that there would be throngs in Woodfords, but the acceptance of the bosch and popularity of sport routes re-directed said throngs..Ive never sat "in line" in the canyon thank Gawd!!
Chim-Chim

climber
Jul 3, 2010 - 01:30pm PT
"Never had to wait in line... thank gawd" Perhaps one of the biggest understatments of the year. Heh Ron was that section 20 like route located east of the fortress and west of Epoxy wall? A couple of friends said they did a route that sounded similar. Also did you'all climb that thin crack on a small triangular wall across the creek from one of these days. I found an anchor... a little "dodgy" now. We cleaned the crack thoroughly a couple of years ago and it checks in at 5.10c/d... with the micro wires and tiny cam placements it's an exciting lead. A nice 5.10.a to the right shares the anchor. I installed a stainless steel anchor 20 feet above the original one, and clip one or both bolts and continue up. There's also four new climbs up and to the right aalong the ramp system that rises form the stream crossing. S. Watson did a great job on a couple of those routes.
Have a great fourth of July. Dan
klimski

Trad climber
Bridgeport,CA
Jul 3, 2010 - 01:53pm PT
Chim ,Tina and I had a great time up at the steeple. Lots of work for us right now but we'll be back in a couple weeks for a weekend of sick routes and of course no crowds, section 20ish ehh?
Klimksi
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 3, 2010 - 02:18pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson


more "woodstoricals"

top left, Jim Arnold doing his very first aid ever on bertha...89
top right Steve Yasmer doing "first crux" 2nd ascent 88 a gorgeous lil woodfords clssic...

lower is Bill Nagel enjoying the view on "children of the sun" fa 77, and me on the 11b slab on the apron around 89..



Actually there are AT least 2 section 20s there, one is as you described, the other is farther west (orange wall region)... ANd possibilities for such are numerous I seem to remember Pual C doing something in the region of the anchor you found~ ill check the memory banks LOL!

click on pics to enlarge.....
Chim-Chim

climber
Jul 3, 2010 - 02:30pm PT
Klimski, it was good to see ya, heh we met some friends of yours at Eagle Lake cliff< Brent O and Shelly? Nice folks give, shout when you come up.
Nice pictures Ron, you must have sticky feet that slab is tough. Chow for now, Dan

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 3, 2010 - 02:52pm PT
lol,, i was into slabs, the more run out, the better...i was wierd that way...You need to get up to the grovers spot,,, for realsies...Theres hidden gems 30 min from the meadows edge..... And I gots to meet you guys sometime,, as the new bearers of the "wood-torch" as it were! Takes balls to be a woodfords addict... what with the kittys and bears and approaches but that is all part of its charm for sure....

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 3, 2010 - 03:02pm PT
a little ot woodfords story~~

A markleeville-ite Wayne Thompson and I were on a fire near the top of apoxie wall mass. we had been helicoptered into this massive juniper growing out of a buttress. a pain in the arse to even get near. two days later, they flew us in a sling load of supplies..now, this is the "old" days of the usfs,,and kindly there was a twacker of beer in it !!!

soooo we partied down that night along with "other goodies" often found in web gear at that time,,, and passed out to a good nights sleep..
Next morn, Im the first to raise up outta the sleeping bag and i lean back on my arms slowly surveying the morning...I look around and the thought,, "what the f-ck did we do last night" runs through my head as i look around at shredded c-rats,,cans torn apart,, our two morning beers shredded too !! Wayne woke up and I asked him WTF?? He looked as puzzled as me....Then,, we saw the tracks of the bear who had his way with our stash LOL!. he had walked all the way around us both but appearently our stinky-ness must have thwarted any thought of molestation BWAH!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 3, 2010 - 03:45pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson


more at Grovers,,, the right two are Tom Sullivan aka "henry" leading first pitch of a chimney/offwidth on beautifull granite."Henry & Henry", 5.9x both pitches. We had some tubes, but this was flaring big and smooth..the good news was, that the belay was some bomber big hexes. lol! and belaying was cake didnt even have to hold the rope.. .. left, is Bob Rose starting up a 110 foot vert wall in the groves area. below, Bill (i dont need no stinkin pro) Nagel aka "henry"...1977 photos by Ron, aka "henry"...

I dont know of any other activity here, but there are gems to be had mostly in the one to two pitch ranges..and hey it should count as Woodfords since its on the backside of the mountain mass of the south side of the canyon LOL!

click phots to enlarge,, as usual..
Matty B

Sport climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 5, 2010 - 10:49am PT
Actually saw Dick a few hours later. Saw a cat with a climbing rope on his pack and got him up to Woodfords on my way to Mokelumne for some hiking. He told me about this website!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 12, 2010 - 09:56pm PT
bump for salamizer..
Chim-Chim

climber
Jul 12, 2010 - 10:56pm PT
Woodfords for me and many of my friends, is incomparable. Like a dream that you never have to wake up from... hell I dream about Woodfords every night and rarely have to wake up to "real" reality. Dan
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2010 - 01:08pm PT
Chim- Don't know if you have any memory of this.

At the top of OOTD in the channel / chimney next to
the anchors were two heavyweight loose blocks. I grew sick
and tired of them there always creeping me out. For
a couple of reasons. But one was if they ever let loose their
drop zone after exiting the channel and after 115' freefall straight down
was the belay zone.

So yesterday, opportunity presented itself to trundle them so I did.
With the energy output of two dynamite explosions.

So check it out when you can. Next time I go up I'll clean the
channel of the remaining sand. I called it a nice improvement.

You're probably up there today. Have fun. My forearms will
be sore for days after yesterday. What a blast!
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 15, 2010 - 03:40pm PT
Damn footy....kaboom

Did get your message on Indian head....may be interested in that down the road.
Back to work for the weekend but maybe able to get out soon
shawn
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 15, 2010 - 05:08pm PT
R U talking about the indian head up wolf creek road?

if so, long ago the bolts were chopped as the crag has been deemed Woodfords Tribal property..Ive had dealings with that clan, and it wouldnt be very pleasant...As a forest service leo, i had to go in their once and was accompanied by four chp, 3 alpine county and one from Douglas county as well lol!
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 16, 2010 - 12:41am PT
Ron
Im not sure if he its the same place of not...knew those had been chopped a couple of years ago. Would love to check out Zebra wall though. Looks very inviting

Had dealings with "tribal police" regarding Dinosaur a couple years ago.....one was very nice the other a total tool.
Shawn
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Jul 16, 2010 - 12:47am PT
There were chalk marks on Zebra wall a couple of years ago other than there are no signs of climbers on that wall for many years. Looks like lots of steep lines there. Those bolts on Wolf Creek have been gone for at least 8 years or more.
Chim-Chim

climber
Jul 16, 2010 - 11:16am PT
I heard a rumor of some basaly collumns up near the zebra wall, does anyone know if the rumor is true? Dan
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 16, 2010 - 11:26am PT
Dan I can close my eyes and see some volcanic crags round there. for the life of me I cant remember exactly where though. Possibly around silver mtn city!?
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Jul 16, 2010 - 11:34am PT
Most of the stuff up 4 is just volcanic mud flows, there may be some that is solid but I am not sure. In the high country around there Henry Peak has some basalt columns I have heard rumors of them being climbed. This formation is also near the the road but when I tried it years ago everything was loose.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 16, 2010 - 11:37am PT
yes the knobs are crusty kinda like Jeff Davis. But I do remember some clener stuff...Ill have to research my ol logs...
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2010 - 12:12pm PT
Looking for a workout partner for tomorrow,
anyone interested?

Where's Wolf Creek road? What's Indian Head?
I only know about Indian Rock, Southwest of Lake
Tahoe. If ever I go, sounds like I'll have to be
vigilant- careful because of angry Paiutes, still? :)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 16, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
Wolf Cr road takes off highway 4 south of Mrkl. Indian head rock is right on wolf cr rd, but there are no routes/anchors left after the choppings, and is in the same status as Cave rock.. sadly...


edit: the choppings at Indian head were around 93...
Chim-Chim

climber
Jul 16, 2010 - 12:27pm PT
Sasha and I are headed up on sunday Bill... you're welcome to come along. Dan
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2010 - 11:58am PT
Just got the day off, anybody going up today,
I need a workout partner.

Chim, Shawn, is there anybody out there? (Pink Floyd)
Chim-Chim

climber
Jul 19, 2010 - 11:10pm PT
Bill sorry. we went up to Woodcutter and the Vitruvian Span Wall there was only three of us :( It would have been good to have you up there, Dan
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2010 - 12:29am PT
Chim- Darn it, man, we keep missing each other.

I'm heading up tomorrow, are you? By the way, I
still haven't checked out the Woodcutter's area. Soon.
Chim-Chim

climber
Jul 21, 2010 - 11:51am PT
We're going up past the steeple on thurs come along. Dan
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 21, 2010 - 12:19pm PT
Have fun thursday....we keep working oposites. UGH !!!!
Chim-Chim

climber
Jul 21, 2010 - 02:55pm PT
Burn, we'll be up on sun mon be there.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2010 - 04:19pm PT
Shawn, still trying to find that no-hands
purchase above the roof on OOTD you pulled off awhile
back. Still alludes me...

You sure you didn't sneak a cam into a crack
way up there when we all weren't looking? ;)


EDIT Alright, Shawn I'll give it another go,
looking to knee jam something.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 22, 2010 - 05:23pm PT
Foot

Right hand in the crack then right knee jammed in there...pray....repeat
stella

climber
cali
Jan 15, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
How are the conditions down there? Are there any topos of the south-facing crags floating around?
climberevan

Mountain climber
Jan 16, 2011 - 11:12pm PT
It's been warm and dry for a while now--65+degrees today at my place near Gardnerville. There is a lot of snow around, so seepy lines will probably be wet, but there have been climbers around and the rock looks great.

PM me--i have lots of free time and the skiing sucks right now...
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2011 - 12:15am PT
Always love to see interest for Woodfords Canyon
at Supertopo. It's been kinda cold though lately but
it's also warming up.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Jan 22, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
See you tomorrow Woodfords...
Looking forward to it...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jan 22, 2011 - 03:29pm PT
i recomend the sun wall to books area will be toasty...
stella

climber
cali
Jan 23, 2011 - 10:29pm PT
is there still a guidebook in the works?
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 24, 2011 - 12:03am PT
Yes
Chim chim is still working on it. He is the "steward" of woodfords. Knows every climb and move on each climb. Always amazes me with his knowledge of the area. Sasha too. ;)

Shawn
stella

climber
cali
Jan 25, 2011 - 12:24am PT
Anybody headed out there this week? We'll be climbing Tuesday and Wednesday.
stella

climber
cali
Jan 27, 2011 - 11:06am PT
huh?

actually, it was pretty empty...beautiful conditions though.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Apr 2, 2011 - 10:15pm PT
Credit: seth kovar
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2011 - 05:29pm PT
Woodfords fans,

Good news, sunny warm days ahead,

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.770145674423965&lon=-119.84024047851562&site=rev&smap=1&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text

anybody want to get out this Friday noonish, south facing side, for a few hours workout?

PM me if interested.
Thanks.

.....

P.S. Cute pup there, Seth, reminds me a little
of Chim-Chim. :)
Mason

Trad climber
Yay Area
Apr 12, 2011 - 05:55pm PT
I tried figuring out where the Woodfords were this year a few times on my way to Kirkwood from S Lake Tahoe. 89 to 88 right??


No luck, and the snow was too high so couldn't scout. Fail.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Apr 12, 2011 - 06:16pm PT
From Kirkwood dont turn to go to south lake. Head straight down the hill toward Gardnerville. You may see some rock on the way..
Dont do it!!!!
Dont do it!!!!
Credit: BurnRockBurn
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2011 - 02:25pm PT
That looks like the top of the Steeple?
Still haven't been there. Maybe this season I'll check
it out. Tell Chim we miss him here at supertopo with
the Woodfords Weekly News.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Apr 19, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
The Perfect Lieback is showcased in r&i this month as a 5.8 must do in the tahoe area...

no fa info though, ron, you should write the editor
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Apr 19, 2011 - 02:17pm PT
Sweet for the lieback

Shawn
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Apr 19, 2011 - 02:41pm PT
woodfords in R&I.....Im a little stunned...;-)
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
Apr 19, 2011 - 02:53pm PT
what....R&I? Great, there goes the neighborhood:-)
bergbryce

Mountain climber
Oakland
Apr 19, 2011 - 02:54pm PT
I'm in the process of relocating to south lake and am really anxious to check out woodfords. I drove through there a few weeks ago, man there looks like a lot of climable rock there. Hoping someone can show me this incredible lieback.

bryce
GvilleClimbingClub

climber
Apr 19, 2011 - 03:04pm PT
Perfect Layback was FA by Bill Griffen and Siggi Vogal. Don't know the date. It really is a perfect climb.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Apr 19, 2011 - 03:06pm PT
fyi, no one ever claimed the perfect lie-back fa that i know of. I did it as early as 78, but it was clean as a whistle then. Either its just a very clean chunk, or some one was on it before, but i thinkin as well as others thought, that it had been done previously. I think it was Sigi Vogl and i that had this same discussion long ago.. I guess R&I doesnt know about OOTD..;-D

edit: toured all the stuff Bill Griffin and Sigi Vogl did with them around 89 when i was writing the guide. Cool guys-bold climbers-- and woodfords explorers!
adikted

Trad climber
Apr 19, 2011 - 06:01pm PT
I went to Woodfords for my first time last Sunday with my girlfriend. parked at the fortress and realized i forgot the Rope...DOH.....so we just hiked around the crag....Awesome area...plan on heading back this sunday to climb the perfect lieback........good times...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Apr 19, 2011 - 06:16pm PT
the other lieback is also good, and "i be jammin",, in the books area-theres the 5.8 hand crack and cat scratch fever, first crux, the list of quality routes goes on and on....
adikted

Trad climber
Apr 19, 2011 - 06:33pm PT
I'll do those as well...would u recomend doubles in 2 and 3 camalot for the handcrack?...i was wondering that looking up at it the other day....psyched on Tahoe Handcracks.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Apr 19, 2011 - 06:38pm PT
what is you rating pref, and as far as a rack goes singles should do you fine, but i carry hexes stoppers and a few cams ...I always have two of every size that way. better prepared is better climbing..


when i did it, it think i placed a few semi-large hexes and maybe a #2 freind. its a nice full hands deep crack another woodfords splitter!
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Apr 19, 2011 - 08:12pm PT
In light of the recent R&I, I would like to point out to the world that WOODFORDS IS A FUKING PILE OF CHOSS! Don't waste your time. The Pie Shop and Snowshed are way, way better... go there instead.

does reverse psychology really work?
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Apr 19, 2011 - 08:31pm PT
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

:)

Listen to wes, that place is a death trap...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Apr 19, 2011 - 08:38pm PT
Please note, In retrospect,and the help of email,,, Im thinking i was confused with another nearby route that i did in 78, and Bill Griffin with Dave Parks did the fa of the Perfect Lieback somewhere around 81/82....Its kinda hard to keep all that chit straight! My apologies to Bill and Dave, now if i could only figure out why it was omitted from the guide!???
squishy

Mountain climber
sacramento
Apr 19, 2011 - 08:47pm PT
I climbed an easy moderate way up high near the summit last weekend, a nice 5.6, super fun, lots of other potential up there...I am heading back to try a few other things I spotted...
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Apr 19, 2011 - 09:11pm PT
Man, it's starting to sound like you could get one hell of a solo circuit figured out up there at Woodfords with all the moderate climbing there is. Sometimes it's just nice to get alot of vertical mileage in with just a chalk bag and shoes. With all the short, quality lines, sounds like it'd be alot of fun in addition to roping it up on some of the harder lines.
adikted

Trad climber
Apr 19, 2011 - 09:20pm PT
Thanks for the Beta Ron.....im psyced to rope up on Sunday at the Woodfords chosspile.... ;)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2011 - 09:26pm PT
From last weekend:
Perfect Lieback
Perfect Lieback
Credit: Footloose

Weather was warm, sunny, bright:

I Be Jammin'
I Be Jammin'
Credit: Footloose

I Be Jammin'
I Be Jammin'
Credit: Footloose

Always struck by the contrast between opposing faces of the Canyon:

Woodfords Canyon, 16apr2011, north-facing side
Woodfords Canyon, 16apr2011, north-facing side
Credit: Footloose


P.S

I had wanted to ski that chute to the right, just didn't get to it fast enough in these spring conditions.
Now this week's weather is unsettled. Bummer.

Could somebody post a link or something (a cut n paste) to the Rock n Ice piece?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Apr 19, 2011 - 10:01pm PT
sweet shots! I would imagine its a tossup between OOTD and TPL for the most photo-graphed routes in the canyon! The routes on the fortress areas are just fine as can be- you know, for choss lichen loose-fests..;-) I was reminded by an e mail from Bill Griffin about the manzanita jungle that was one there amongst thick pine- before the acorn fire in 87. If you think the approaches are burly now, you would have died in 86...oddly enough the fire was a definite benefit to getting that side cleaner as far as the rock was concerned..
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 02:40pm PT
I'm pretty sure Bill Griffin told me he was TPL's FA.
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Apr 20, 2011 - 02:46pm PT
How long will those chutes be in condition?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Apr 20, 2011 - 02:46pm PT
yep, already covered that in above post, him and Dave Parks 81/2-ish;-) The confusion was on my part-about a nearby route...
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 03:06pm PT
How long will those chutes be in condition?

I guess it depends on your standards. For me,
it was a couple of days ago. If you snooze, you lose. :(
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Apr 20, 2011 - 03:43pm PT
Hope to see you Saturday Woodfords...
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Apr 20, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
Foot

That photo is the top of the Steeple.

Nice to see all the interest in Woodfords again. Still looking to do a pig roast in June, Maybe the weekend of the 4th. Will keep everyone posted.
Shawn
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
Apr 20, 2011 - 05:13pm PT
Footloose- those picts look cool. What area is that??
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 05:23pm PT
Haha. C'mon up, I'll show you.

But not this week:

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.770145674423965&lon=-119.84024047851562&site=rev&smap=1&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text

Ouch!
adikted

Trad climber
Apr 20, 2011 - 07:48pm PT
Damn...weather looks skeptical...im gonna try and climb woodfords sunday anyways....it will be a fun drive none the less.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Apr 20, 2011 - 08:08pm PT
That's why you've got to shop around on weather forecasts...http://www.weather.com/outlook/homeandgarden/garden/tenday/USCA0672. 52 degrees, 10 percent chance of rain. Much better.

edit: Oh, yeah. You're looking at Sunday, not Saturday. Sorry ;). Still, there's a 70% chance of no rain. And, c'mon, it'll probably just be a passing shower, dry off in a second...
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
Oh Jebus is a diehard for Woodfords, he's probably hiking
the approach as I post this. In the rain and all. Happy climbing!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Apr 23, 2011 - 01:06pm PT
i was like that once...Its cc-cold here at the shop up at moundhouse-raining .. Those woodfords cracks get pretty greasy in the rain!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Apr 23, 2011 - 01:47pm PT
No, fellas, I'm not that die hard. I'm currently sitting on my butt and planning a little gym time later. Damn rain!
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
Apr 23, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
Im more a wuss- posting this from the gym
adikted

Trad climber
Apr 23, 2011 - 07:17pm PT
Damn.....I reckon tomorrow is gonnabe crappy too...oh well....gym day :(
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Apr 24, 2011 - 09:14am PT
Im more a wuss- posting this from the gym
I think I out wussed you by flaking on the gym. I hung out with the lady and got fatter. It was fun!
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Apr 24, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
I think I out wussed you by flaking on the gym. I hung out with the lady and got fatter. It was fun!

ditto
bergbryce

Mountain climber
Oakland
Apr 24, 2011 - 12:59pm PT
Rain, sun, now snow. Interesting morning weather wise in South Tahoe.
Gonna go skin up something, been hearing reports of good, creamy snow in some places.
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
Apr 24, 2011 - 06:19pm PT
Road the trails in Santa Cruz. Got my a** handed to me AND way muddy. Oh well
enjoimx

Trad climber
Kirkwood, CA
Apr 24, 2011 - 07:07pm PT
If I cant get a partner for the Gorge Tuesday Wednesday, I will be at Woodfords both days.

PM me if you need a partner, I definitely do.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 11:34am PT
msiddens,

Just don't go getting yourself injured doing that silly
biking stuff just at the start of climbing season. You'd hate that.
Just keep in mind Dark Star and Keeler. ;)

Good news, weather's looking up this week at Woodfords:

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.770145674423965&lon=-119.84024047851562&site=rev&smap=1&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text

Reminder-

54 F in full-on sun on south-facing slope feels like 84 F.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Apr 25, 2011 - 11:40am PT
fyi-there was once a WAD of a USFS "biologist" that wanted the canyon access closed for the SPOTTED owl..a specie never seen there,,,,ever...
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Apr 25, 2011 - 01:07pm PT
That would have sucked, Ron!

I'm hoping the forecast holds out this time. I'd sure love to climb TPLB again since it's now an official Tahoe must do!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Apr 25, 2011 - 01:21pm PT
its a regular coin-toss spring this year-ive seen snow in the canyon every month except arrrrghust!


Credit: Ron Anderson

july 1983^^


Credit: Ron Anderson

Log deck near the suicide falls area woodfords canyon 1988- the first ever helicopter salvage sale in region 4. the aftermath of the acorn fire..
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 01:27pm PT
Hey, I've been eager to see photos of the fortress area
from the highway for the longest time now. From before the Fire.
Bill G was supposed to send me some I think at one point
but I never got to see any.

Anyone have any to share?

All that logging might explain why the area's
quite clear of detritus.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Apr 25, 2011 - 01:32pm PT
you couldnt see much from the highway! It was at least half (if not more) as thick as the north facing side. the manzanita was EPIC every where-some places it was over your head and impossible to penetrate. ill have to see if i can find any pics, but never took many of the trees!

as for debris, most of the canyons south face is alluvial, so most of it ended up buried from slides post burn. Also, the fire had flame fronts hundreds of feet tall through out the walls of the canyon, so ash was the main debris left. I was only involved in a few actual "fire storms", and woodfords was definitly one of em..

edit: the first pic is right under the fortress area on the highway.;-)
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
Apr 25, 2011 - 03:08pm PT
Footloose, never!
Chim-Chim

climber
Apr 25, 2011 - 03:44pm PT
Heading up in the am on tuesday, it like looks like the weather may cooperate. J.J aka A-1 spotted some tat up and left of OOTD. Looks to be about a thirty minute approach. A beautiful splitter to a cave/ledge, That sits below a short right-facing corner, that leads to even more climbing above. Ron, Do you know anything about this area? I was planning on going up there, this summer and low and behold... some bastard has been up there. Let me know if you know what I'm talking about. I also checked out the waterfal area, it looks awesome. Tons of excellent looking rock ALL over. Chow, Chim


Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
You mean on the face around the corner where the old rope hung
for a couple of years? I always figured that was some of your
doing - as it looked to be hanging over 5.12ish terrain. ;)

I might go up Wed to explore some.

Have fun tomorrow.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Apr 25, 2011 - 08:10pm PT
Dano may have had a project, or did some exploring in that area. The cloudburst right side was a sec 20 adventure, although a lot of it was done at night, couldnt tell ya where the h#ll we were exactly.....I remember camping on a fine balcony with a large pine and soft grass..did some hard core celebration!
Chim-Chim

climber
Apr 25, 2011 - 08:45pm PT
Footloose, that old rope I think belongs to a man named Paul who used to live in Woodfords and put up the bolted face route to the left off OOTD. The face crack I'm referring to lies way up and to the left of the OOTD rock formation the climb with athe slin on top faces north and can seenthrough binoculars from a spot to the left of theparking area for OOTD and High Eenergy Wall. Dirtbags only... it looks like alot of work, but definately work the effort. This a seperate formation that is completely stacked with potential. North and East facing walls... it's unreal.
Ron that section 20 area to the right OOTD was that near the extremely clean and monolthic green face? An obvious crack runs along the left edge of the face, but it looks to be a S.O.B. to get up to that spot be it seems to be an obvious "target". Looks like a real scappy area. Nice work. Dan
Chim-Chim

climber
May 2, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
Ten cars at the Woodfords. The second most I've seen. Some poor folks used the descent trail to approach the Fortress. Can you say Scooby-Doo? It was cold and breezy all week end. Be aware of the potential for rattlesnake encounters, I saw a biggen yesterday... nearly got me, I had to huck myself off a small cliff to avoid the coiling mass. Six new climbs up on the winter side have been established recently from 5.9 to 5.12, no bolts aside from an anchor or two. Check out Mt. Project in a couple of days for the details. The most recent addition climb the squat formation on the left side of the Fortress in three pitches. Chim
Credit: Chim-Chim
NML81

Trad climber
N Lake Tahoe
May 2, 2011 - 01:36pm PT
My car was one of them. Fun day. The perfect lie-back is pretty perfect. I was wondering about rattlesnakes, thanks for the update. We found the descent trail and commented how we would hate to go up it.
Aerili

climber
Reno, NV
May 2, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
Hi NM, I think maybe you came over to the Books at the start of the day and chatted with my partner and I? I gave you some beta. If so, nice to meet you guys and hopefully we'll see ya out there again.
NML81

Trad climber
N Lake Tahoe
May 2, 2011 - 02:24pm PT
Aerili, That was me, nice to meet you and hope to run into again at the crags.
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 4, 2011 - 12:57am PT
Climbed out at Woodfords today, really nice day and we were the only ones out there. Climbed OULD and the first few pitches of hand of God among others.

Question, can someone tell me what the first pitch of hand of god is rated (the variation with the bolts on the face), it felt 11ish but I suck at ratings, also what is the stellar looking last pitch go at.

Thanks,
Steve
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
May 4, 2011 - 01:01am PT
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Sweet man, sounds like fun!!!!!!
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 4, 2011 - 01:03am PT
Thanks Seth, how was your trip?

Lets get out soon.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
May 4, 2011 - 12:41pm PT
Trip was rad!!!

Ksolem is a good guy...

June 8th is the last day of school... can't wait...

weekends are usually free...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
May 8, 2011 - 05:36pm PT
Little miss manners 11D as for the bolt route dunno?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
May 8, 2011 - 05:58pm PT
doh,,, Im cluless then, please disregard....;-)
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
May 8, 2011 - 08:21pm PT
Wes-

that face to the left of OOTD is .12a that a friend of mine named Paul bolted. It used to be a bit grainy but has cleaned up in the last few years.

The rope around the corner that some people were commenting on earlier was probably from my friend Walt who sometime leaves one there to tr solo OOTD.
He sticks it around the corner to be out of sight. I don't think Paul ever left a rope ther but I could be wrong.

take care
dave
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
May 8, 2011 - 09:17pm PT
NICE- traxion line just like the big boys at Arch. Great place, great routes.
mariaji

Social climber
Tucson, AZ
May 9, 2011 - 02:11am PT
Hello climbers, I'm looking for a partner in the Lake Tahoe vicinity to climb for the day on Saturday, May 14th. Anyone available? I'm happy swapping leads (5.10 sporto, 5.9 trad, multi-good) but won't have gear other than personal wares.

cheerio,
Maria
520-834-4548
Chim-Chim

climber
May 9, 2011 - 04:29pm PT
Wes, those bolts were placed by Mark "bucky" Bauer. He led the climb on the left a fun but loose 5.10-. The climb on the right is 5.11b it climbs the shallow left-facing coner to a v-shaped slot and small roof. It protects well, but it's hard to see the gear placements. I followed the crack-system up and right, before heading back left to the bolted anchor. A protection bolt would allow a direct finish, I debated placing one but decided to wait since that finish could be top-roped. Sasha, Paul and I did two new climbs on the rock-formation directly below The Books. Two 5.8 share an anchor eighty feet up. I don't know if it's a good idea to go there until the fall... it's rife with snakes, we saw seven in one short day there. The area is called The Snake Den. The last pitch of Hand of God is 5.10d.
Chipmonk and I are planning to go and do some climbing directly above the finshing balay ledge for the Books, they look for the most park to be moderate looking.
Oh yeah who took a dump twenty yards to the left of the start of Hand of God... you didn't bury it very well, some of your unburned t.p. was blowing around... and your rock "cairn" was easily seen, not cool. Please do-do a better job, next time. Thanks Dan

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
May 9, 2011 - 04:33pm PT
si-ick...^^^ and so it begins...Tell me how one can want to share an area and regret it at the same time...Been bugging me for years lol!!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
May 9, 2011 - 04:44pm PT
did U poop on the ledge??
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
May 9, 2011 - 04:49pm PT
dont blame you a bit Chim! That's crap(pun intended) ESPECIALLY in a place like the canyon that has abundant "spots" on can go OUT OF THE WAY..Terrible juju to poop near the rock. The creeks arent a toilet either...
Chim-Chim

climber
May 9, 2011 - 04:53pm PT
I know it wasn't you Wes. You seem to be very environmentally conscious. I'm not going to get too worked up over this, it wasn't like its a diaper or anyhting. It will decompose and it is getting to be the end of the winter climboing season anyway, I just hope people will think twice about where they do there business in the future. Peace, Dan
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
May 9, 2011 - 04:57pm PT
The 11b right of OOTD sounds like King Diamond....FA Crawford,Banny Root& Me.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
May 9, 2011 - 05:02pm PT
nah they are waaayyy right of the king...thats a HARD route by the way AL!! Crawford You, and Banny--hehe-got any "stories"??
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
May 9, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
YUR GONNA DIE!Bold Text


three maybe four "crux's" seemes like eight....
Chim-Chim

climber
May 9, 2011 - 05:04pm PT
Aldude, the 11b to the right of OOTD is King Diamond. The route Wes was refering to lies on a separate wall down and right of the King Diamong Wall aka OOTD wall. Paul Crawford did two climbs to the left of the routes Wes described. Dan
Oh yeah, the pin on King Diamond pulled out in a fall two summers ago,I'm not sure how it protects at the moment.
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 9, 2011 - 05:17pm PT
Hey Dan, First off thank you for all the hard work you have put in at Woodfords. I know it can be a thankless task. Let me assure you that I did not take a sh#t up there. I have been climbing for nearly 20 years and always practice and teach a low impact approach. The day I was up there there was evidence of others having been up there recently. I don't appreciate being blamed for someone elses sh#t just because I posted on an internet forum looking for information. I am not looking to get into an internet pissing (shitting match) I don't have time for that. Was just looking for some beta NBD, I guess I'll just go climb the thing. Again thank you for all of your effort at Woodfords, I look forward to meeting you out there.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2011 - 06:07pm PT
Yeah, his name's North. ;)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
May 9, 2011 - 06:08pm PT
honestly Wes, i just followed it behind Dano once...We were heading for parts unknown...BUT it was XX HARD to me....For SOME wierd reason, i always did better on the sunny side..:-/
Jebus H Bomz

climber
May 9, 2011 - 06:11pm PT
After that I snailed my way up OOTD... probably took about 80 minutes, but I got it clean so I consider it a good endurance workout! - Weschrist

Heh. Good to hear I'm not the only who has done that. My onsight of OOTD was a forearm burning epic. It was a proud send for me though and definitely some good endurance.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
May 9, 2011 - 06:20pm PT
imagine how i felt one day with Dano and Gilje doing it in minutes, then having "lunch" while i had my way with it LOL! Prolly just a psyche thing, but OOTD and HIGH ENERGY walls were always intimidating to me..

edit: Gilje did it in about four minutes or less, and used 3 pieces(maybe 4)...Made it look like he was dike hiking up pop bottle....
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
May 9, 2011 - 06:29pm PT
Let me assure you that I did not take a sh#t up there. I have been climbing for nearly 20 years and always practice and teach a low impact approach. --Gomz

Gomz would not pull any, well, sh#t like that... he is a stand up guy... I'd hate for people to think otherwise...

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
May 9, 2011 - 06:32pm PT
someone POOPED on the ledge. THe gawds of the canyon are now angry. be aware, be very very aware..It aint the valley....
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
May 9, 2011 - 06:35pm PT
The poop is all Rock and Ice's fault...

We'll be overrun by gym climbers and the poop will flow...

edit: sorry I missed the plastic pulling yesterday Jebus, and my buddy is not coming this weekend. What will you two get into?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
May 9, 2011 - 06:38pm PT
NO SH*T!!!^^^^ I can just see a plethora of poop "tote" bags laying around-along with lots of flavored water bottles..Then, there will be "pads" crunching the brush around mama cat and the neighborhood will have gone to hell!
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
May 9, 2011 - 06:40pm PT
Time to spin the signs, Czech style...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
May 9, 2011 - 06:42pm PT
Good one!hehe

Hey, has ANYONE done penial pillar lately?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
May 9, 2011 - 07:36pm PT

edit: sorry I missed the plastic pulling yesterday Jebus, and my buddy is not coming this weekend. What will you two get into?

Not sure yet, Seth. Fitting to the thread title, I have been putting off another Woodfords visit for some time now. We will have the entire weekend for a change, so we might do some camping too.
Chim-Chim

climber
May 9, 2011 - 08:11pm PT
Gomz, I don't know you, and I apologize for the a false accusation. My bad. I was just kinda pissy after discovering the baked goods. No hard feelings, again my sincere apologiies. Please continue to have fun up there. Like I said lots of people go up there and it was unfair for me to assume that it was you or anyone you knew was the party in question.
That being said there are quite a few multipitch climbs in that immediate area. The descent is either a walk off to the west or a rappel down Hand of God. Hand of God is the hardest of five different climbs that "top" out. Peace, Dan

Ron I did Pineal Pillar about two years ago. Nice hand stacks huh? I placed an anchor on top, how did you get off, did you top out? I climbed a very nice crack behind the formation that Pineal PIllar and Way the Hell Up There. We named It Serenity Now... it reminde me of the second pitch of Serenity Crack. Although not as steep as OOTD, the rock is better and the moves more technical, at the same grade. I placed a bolted anchor under the roof and removed a fifty pound block after me initial forray? Had this been climbed before?
I found an old slung block anchor on the top of a beautiful, long wide hand crack to flare, but that climb lies to the west and to the right of Dano bolt. For the record do you know who climbed that first? We called it the High Jinx of Woodfords 5.10a an exausting climb on excellent rock.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
May 9, 2011 - 08:43pm PT
someone once took a dump at the Cave, smack in the middle of the patio. WOnder if this could be the same "serial pooper"...

edit: That sound like the 3 pitch 5.10 "unknown" unit- kind of behind the pillar yes?


and there was some fixed pins atop the pillar are they history? I heard there was bolts on either that or WTHUT..
Chim-Chim

climber
May 11, 2011 - 02:21pm PT
Ron, I couldn't find any pins up there except for the pin at the start of wthut. The bolted anchor on top server both Pineal Pillar and wthut, no protection bolts though just two bolts on top. Serenity now is about forty feet to the left of Unknown. The first pitch starts up and to the right of wthut and belays on a dirt ledge behind the pillar. Three routes meet the anchor another seventy feet up. I climed a variation of the unknown route but cut left at the first roof and followed the overlap and left-leaning ramp... there's an old fixed hex anchor and maybe a delapidated camming unit. Climbed three unknown pitches above the ledge belay of the 5.8 handcrack route, placed an anchor about eighty feet up or so. All below 5.8 or so a bit runout, but fun... mostly featured face climbing with a knob or two to sling and nice cracks for pro in places. All kinda atypical of the Woodfords' jamming style. We're climbing a four pitch 5.10c tommarrow... Yellow Fin. The third pitch may rival OOTD in quality. Thin hands, to fingers in a flake to a slab with a tips crack awesome! Chow for now Chim
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2011 - 09:30pm PT
The third pitch may rival OOTD in quality.

I don't know, hard to believe. Anyways, happy climbing!


P.S. Thanks for the ping.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
May 12, 2011 - 10:44am PT
Chim. I'm back in town. Give me a shout.
Shawn
Jebus H Bomz

climber
May 15, 2011 - 02:24pm PT
Went up to Woodcutters Wall for the first time. Does anybody know what that bolted arete is? Ascent info, grade, etc.?

In my addled mind, I thought it looked like a 10a. Short into the lead, I discovered it is not. Really not.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
May 15, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
?? dunno. Is the "wnd flake" still there on "flapping ass flake"?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
May 15, 2011 - 08:33pm PT
You talking about the flake on Right Branch? Looks like.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
May 15, 2011 - 08:35pm PT
just right of the right branch is "flapperass flake" goes up the corner and then straight up mantling on the flake and up a short phat crack..
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
May 15, 2011 - 10:00pm PT
The most stunning thing about woodfords is the amount of great rock 15min away.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
May 16, 2011 - 12:53am PT
Oh, I didn't get on Flaperass Flake, then. The day was getting short and the wind was kicking up, so we vamoosed.
Chim-Chim

climber
May 16, 2011 - 04:32pm PT
Jebus Jomz, the bolted arete is called Dog Down after a couple of pouches got whamped one afternoon.. One unlucky pooch took a good fall getting up to the crag, the other, got a male bloodhound got beat up by an female akita. We rated it tough 5.12- tha e first lead was by of course Mark "bucky" Bowers. You must of got a good look at the Steeple, What do you think. Dan
Jebus H Bomz

climber
May 16, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
Yeah, Chim, I'd say it's tough 12-! Thanks for posting the description up on mproject, I'm "zeke" there. So, since I already spoiled my onsight (really spoiled) do you go straight over the bolt, or do you trend left or right to get by the crux? I was seeing a sequence where you could go right of the bolt line and link it through, but, damn, it'd be tough either way. High quality line.

Yeah, the steeple looked way cool. It definitely catches the eye. I'll have to hit that next.
Chim-Chim

climber
May 18, 2011 - 02:18pm PT
Jebus, we went out on to the arete after the reachy move to the horizontal break. We're considering moving the bolt or add one to keep the leader from falling into the arete. The trail should be clear soon up to the steeple. Beware of loose rocks that tend to shift alot during the winter. Have fun up there. Dan
Credit: Chim-Chim
Reggaemylitis

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Jul 1, 2011 - 09:20pm PT
Finally made it to check out this "hidden gem"! No wonder we didn't see anyone out there both days we were there! Total choss pile in a desert-like wasteland! Had to bushwack through manzanita the whole time, and carry a big stick to fight off all the rattlers! I would not recommend going here...EVER! I have pics to prove it!

OK, so maybe we missed the trail to OOTD on the way up, but we ran int...
OK, so maybe we missed the trail to OOTD on the way up, but we ran into it halfway up, and it was a breeze on the way down! ;)
Credit: Reggaemylitis

See how sketchy this stream crossing was?  Stupid snow&#40;melt&#41;! ...
See how sketchy this stream crossing was? Stupid snow(melt)! I wouldn't risk it if I were you!
Credit: Reggaemylitis

My buddy Eric warming up on Bush League!  That's what this whole place...
My buddy Eric warming up on Bush League! That's what this whole place is! Stay at The Leap. Remember my motto, if you can't see the car, you've gone too far! ;)
Credit: Reggaemylitis

See, what an ugly canyon to sit and lounge in between climbs!
See, what an ugly canyon to sit and lounge in between climbs!
Credit: Reggaemylitis

We all struggled at the roof!  My buddy had one of those 60 minute end...
We all struggled at the roof! My buddy had one of those 60 minute endurance fests while leading it! Wish we had beta on those roof moves!
Credit: Reggaemylitis

Then we get over to Nevada/Utah border and there is a bush in the midd...
Then we get over to Nevada/Utah border and there is a bush in the middle of the climb! Screw this adventure climbing nonsense! (Chim Chim and other locals, is it alright to remove that bush?)
Credit: Reggaemylitis

If I were to go back, and once again, I wouldn't recommend it, this ba...
If I were to go back, and once again, I wouldn't recommend it, this barren wasteland is where I'll go. Seems like the crowds are worse over there though!
Credit: Reggaemylitis
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Jul 1, 2011 - 09:26pm PT
Nice. Someone want to climb with me there Sunday? I'll bring the anti-venom...
Chim-Chim

climber
Jul 6, 2011 - 04:10pm PT
I difficult to even justify replying to an obvious troll, but we did watch you dog the roof o ootd for about an hour... maybe you should stay at the leap, espescially if you can't even follow an obvioius trail. Adveture climbing isn't for pussies. I heard Pipeworks is fun.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 6, 2011 - 04:15pm PT
eeerr Chim, i do believe that little TR was slightly tounge-in-cheek- at least thats how I took it....I mean, who could deny once being there..;-)
Reggaemylitis

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Jul 6, 2011 - 04:32pm PT
HA! I guess you missed the spirit of my post for sure! The place was awesome, and I was trying to get an ignored area some attention. Thanks for the warm welcome! Back to Pipeworks I go!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 6, 2011 - 04:34pm PT
eeasyy now, I stuck up for ya! LOL! Nice tr by the way..

but the bush in NV/UT border must stay..;-) It has history...
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Jul 6, 2011 - 05:11pm PT
I difficult to even justify replying to an obvious troll, but we did watch you dog the roof o ootd for about an hour... maybe you should stay at the leap, espescially if you can't even follow an obvioius trail. Adveture climbing isn't for pussies. I heard Pipeworks is fun.

Yeah, I think their was some heavy sarcasm in that TR... Bad day Chim?

edit: I'd probably dog the roof too, should I go back to Rocksport?

edit:edit: can't wait to sample the south side.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jul 6, 2011 - 05:12pm PT
The beta for that roof is to pull up and over on .10a jams.

Had a real nice time at Woodfords a couple weeks ago, everything we did was quality... except for that NV/UT border, that thing is a lame chossy sandbag.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 6, 2011 - 05:28pm PT
I see all you YOUNG GUNS are in NEED of a seasoned, even crusty, wise man to lead you down the path of hapiness..as well as keep the peace in this marvelous thread..

To Chim, m-e-l-l-o-w....You care deeply and that is good!

to Regg, welcome to the canyon, do not be afraid of no crowds, that is the canyons ways..Relish that!


to caughtinside,,,you were close to strangle hold, hillside strangler, storm troopers of death, leper face and many more routes..Some have not had a lot of traffic in that particular area though! And YES, NV/UT is a sandbagger! Told Dano that years ago, he laughed...Now your in on it! Cool huh?
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Jul 6, 2011 - 05:32pm PT
To Chim, m-e-l-l-o-w....You care deeply and that is good!

I agree, I know how much time you have dedicated to this place and thank you!!!!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 6, 2011 - 05:56pm PT
ps, as far as i know, not one rope has been pooped on here in the canyon of the gawds...;-D Beware, deficating on woodfords stone could spell certain disaster and is to be avoided at all costs!
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jul 6, 2011 - 05:58pm PT
Hi Ron,

I did the Hillside Strangler, that thing is absolutely top quality, loved it. Looked at some of those other things you mentioned, as well as some other things not in the old topo that have clearly been climbed, but day was winding down and they were in direct hot sun. Next time!

I did not love UT/NV, despite the ha ha rating. For a 50 foot climb, it has like 8 feet of good climbing, and 40 feet of downright lousy climbing. Rotten flake, shrub, 3rd class ramp strewn with loose rocks.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Jul 6, 2011 - 06:00pm PT
Heh, a little internet acrimony is always good for the blood.

Yeah, Ron, Dano sure sandbagged that UT/NV rig, but it's a good thing to bitchslap your ego every once in a while.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 6, 2011 - 06:09pm PT
Once upon a time, that was a STANDARD thing amongst climbers and guides... It was meant for one to get the local beta from a local! Dues as it were !!!hehe Of course, there a few fluff routes in there to boost your moral a bit too!

and glad ya had a good time Caughtinside! Theres tons to do there and its gorgeous now! I really dont remember that climb being so chossy though..but i havent been on it since 92 maybe...
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Jul 6, 2011 - 06:14pm PT
What can I say, Ron, I am a glutton for punishment. It was a bit rude trying to warm up for Hillside on NV/UT though and finding I should have done it the other way around.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 6, 2011 - 06:19pm PT
BWAAAHAHA ! Serves ya right for wanting a "warm up"!!;-) the hike usually warmed me up! IN FACT we always took a healthy break and indulged in what evers THEN climbed...You marathon guys!!!.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Jul 6, 2011 - 06:54pm PT
jebus... :)
Reggaemylitis

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Jul 6, 2011 - 07:06pm PT
Well, I'm glad my shitty post kept the Woodfords thread on the front page most of the day! I wasn't trying to be a dick Chim-Chim, I'm just good at it! Thanks for all the work you've done out at this great area. Say hi next time you see my dogging! ;)

That was a good one by Dan-O! Got us for sure! LOL!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jul 9, 2011 - 12:39am PT
Anyone want to climb tomorrow?
I got back to Eagle Lake cliff tonight and am amped to get out tomorrow.
Could do Woodofrds or any other crag around south lake.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Jul 9, 2011 - 12:41am PT
Bummer, won't be back till Sunday... Woodfords, it's been too long...

Last time I was there I followed Quoia the Destroyer in the rain... talk about fun... nice lead Jebus!!!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Aug 12, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
Looking for a Tahoe area partner for tomorrow, Saturday. Doesn't have to be Woodfords, can do any area around Tahoe. Would be down for something adventurous, like Sector 20. Also interested in stuff on Flagpole if anyone wants to show me around. PM or reply here.

bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 30, 2011 - 05:14pm PT
Could use a partner tomorrow in the Tahoe area.
Anyone interested??
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Sep 30, 2011 - 06:37pm PT
We're doing Twin Crags tomorrow as a mellow hangover thing if you want to step your expectations down about 5 notches. Bring some Pibbers.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Sep 30, 2011 - 08:30pm PT
We're doing Twin Crags tomorrow as a mellow hangover thing if you want to step your expectations down about 5 notches. Bring some Pibbers.

bwahahahahaha... we're also only 15 to 20 minutes form Donner...

Then Chris and I could climb Kindergarden Crack while you belay Marissa up Panic in Detroit ;)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2011 - 11:09pm PT
Wish I could go. Love Woodfords.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Oct 2, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
Just saw an article on Woodfords in the Reno "entertainment buzz" about the new frontier for climbing, Woodfords canyon..
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Oct 2, 2011 - 03:53pm PT
No doubt! I saw an article similiar in ,,,,the GOOD SAM club site for the area! GOOD SAM?????
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Oct 2, 2011 - 06:11pm PT
bwahahahahaha... we're also only 15 to 20 minutes form Donner...

Then Chris and I could climb Kindergarden Crack while you belay Marissa up Panic in Detroit ;)

It was good enough to see her get up that 5.9 at Green Phantom, you have a budding tradster in your girlfriend there! If she keeps it up, Panic in Detroit isn't too far off ;).

Good job on K Crack, I think you're well qualified for The Nose now.

Also, thanks for putting us up at the digs. I literally couldn't get out of that hot tub until my bladder was about to explode. And even then, I thought about it...

Sh#t, I guess we gotta get our asses to Woodfords soon just to get this thread back on topic, eh?
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Nov 1, 2011 - 01:09pm PT
I have not read this whole thread so I appologize for the questions, but what kind of rock is the Woodfords? I saw a picture posted by Seth K. and it kind of looked like sandstone. How big is it? Is it mostly trad(my preference if I were to travel there)? Do you need a tour or can you figure it out with a guide book? It sure looks cool though and when I someday get the time and money to travel to cali again I would love to hit up some of these places that are off the beaten path a little.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Nov 1, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
woodfords is GRANITE!(although some volcanic formations can be found on the south side above most of the better granite. The only guide to it still is the one i did in 91. There were 90 some climbs documneted then (although many werent included for various reasons) and now there are over three hundred. beta and pdf files of my old guide can be found in various sites, like ST and MTN project. You can also nab a copy of my original guide for a 40.00 conntribution to the Tom Gilje fund..
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Nov 1, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
What would a $25 contribution get me?

I hate to be stingy, but times are tight and I have another kid on the way.

Do you have a beat up copy?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Nov 1, 2011 - 09:39pm PT
Yes,,you send Tom Your 25.00 and ill send you a used copy- still in ok condition!
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Nov 1, 2011 - 09:42pm PT
How do I do that?

If you e-mail me through supertopo, that's my real account.

I can pay via snail mail, or online if you have a way.

I've been wanting to climb there for years. It's right along one of my commute routes.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Nov 1, 2011 - 09:45pm PT
ill bump the thread that has Toms Addy, and just send it to that address via any system you want. Then pm me here on ST with Your addy and ill send ya the book..THANKS for helping out an awsome individual like Tom Gilje!
Sonic

Trad climber
Hilly, but no rocks Folsom, California
Nov 4, 2011 - 05:08pm PT
Bump
GILL

climber
Minden, NV
Feb 11, 2012 - 01:11am PT
Woodfords thread is awful quiet for the winter we've been having

Anyone know about the small canyons above Mama Cat and Big Bertha boulders?
I think there are about 4 small canyons. Anyone know there names?
The more eastern ones, close to Deadwood Canyon, have walls that are nice and tall!
Hiked up there a few times. Took 45-60 minutes depending how much I was wondering around looking at cool rock.
The canyon directly above the big gravel parking lot on the south side of the hwy has a real nice wall about 400' tall. It has a huge roof system in the middle of the wall about 200' up. There was a bolt and an escape biner 30' up on the left side of the wall. It was above a discontinuous finger crack. Looked scary. One hell of a drilling stance. Anyone know anything?
My climbing partner and I did a route in one of the crack systems that led us pretty far right of the huge roofs. It took us to the big ledge 200' up. This ledge spands almost the whole wall. We went left and scrambled up a gully to the summit. Great view!!! When we came down we went back to the right on the big ledge and rapped off a 10' pine tree. Noticed a few chalk marks on the rap. Someone TRing from the tree I guess? Looked like you could scramble up to the tree from the ground on the far right of the wall.
So the route we did was really dirty, has big bushes that we climbed through, and has a few loose blocks. We want to go and clean it. My big deal is I don't want to step on anyone's feet. If anyone knows anything about this area let me know on this tread or PM me. I'll try to get some good pics next time I go up there.
Thanks
justin01

Trad climber
sacramento
Feb 24, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
With the horrendous backcountry snow conditions for the weekend, we are thinking of going to woodfords for some easy peasy climbing on sunday...we are out of climbing shape. Anyone going to be there this weekend. We did left and right branch last summer on our way back from the eastside, but that was about it. Hoping to hit up the northside of the road this time, but a little mystified about what area has the most easy .6-.9's. The pdf guide is pretty limited in this area, but thinking they must lurk out there. I assume the authors were just not too interested. Should we just wander around the fortress trying to pick off 4th class climbs, hoping to score something only slightly harder. Hoping to do just a bit of exploring in the sun, and avoid the soon to form water ice and wind all over the backcountry. Sugestions?
Manimal

climber
SLT, Ca
Feb 24, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
There are only a couple climbs established in that grade range up there. I would suggest Luther Spires which gets great afternoon sun and which has been quite warm of late, with not much snow on the trail in. It's in the SLT Supertopo guide. However latest forecast shows cold arriving sooner than expected with temps dropping tomorrow and wind affecting the whole area. If at Woodfords, perfect lieback jumps to mind or there is another 5.8 way left of there in the books area, but it's a lot of hiking for limited climbing in those grades, not to mention the last time I was up there, just a couple weeks ago those climbs were mobbed. My 2 cents.
Ozmokis

Ice climber
Gardnerville, NV
Feb 24, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
I'm not super familiar with the area...but I have been out there before. I believe "The Perfect Lie Back" 5.8 is on the North Side.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/woodfords-canyon/106359636

Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Feb 24, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
I mean, the Fortress is the prime digs, although there's a 5.9 near the Mama Cat boulder I've seen in the topos. There are a few in the range... Perfect Lieback, Quoia the Destroya (cool 5.9) just right of I Be Jammin' (5.9...+?), Whisker Biscuit 5.9 (might be a little heady at the top), The Other Lieback 5.9, Red Pillar, the 5.7 and 5.8 climbs near Cat Scratch Fever. It looks like a hearty handful but things tend to go slowly up there in my experience. By the time you've done the slog up, you don't feel like sprinting through the manzanita and these climbs have a bit of up and down and slogging around between them.

So, there's that one seven I can think of, some decent eight, and moderate to hard nine. I always find Woodfords to climb the grade. Again, it may be that pre-drain of the hike speaking. I'd go for it though, it's a prime winter location.
justin01

Trad climber
sacramento
Feb 24, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
yeah, perfect layback definitely came to mind. I just figured, there is so much rock around there, there might by some crags that are lower angle with 4th class and up, depending on what you pick. Looking up the hills there is just too much rock not to hold plenty of easy climbing.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Feb 24, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
Justin I think by the time you get up there you want to do a climb, not more slogging. Seriously, that hike is probably harder than any 5.6 I've been on (just speaking effort, not technicality).
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Feb 24, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
the Apron and cracker cliff- much closer approaches have ranges from 5.6 to 5.10 plus,, five min to cracker and a minute to the apron from parking.. will get sun at some time during the days. Theres cracks bolted faces, offwidth chimneys and such to play with..
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Feb 24, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
the little hidden crag that "in the 70s" is on is a nice SHORT approach- just oaver the first bench above the river. The crack is actually more like an easy 5.8,, not .9 and is a beauty! Deep hands fists with nicely spaced knobs.. Its a hidden lil crag,,but the top can be seen breifly when driving downhill on the highway looking north over the river.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Feb 24, 2012 - 05:31pm PT
some of the balmiest climbing of that grade now,,, Iron Butte!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Feb 24, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
Oh yeah, haven't been to those cliffs yet. One of these days... is a good climb.
justin01

Trad climber
sacramento
Feb 24, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
Cookie cliff area looks promising just because not much is invested from a time situation.

I don't mind walking or figuring or bushwacking (most likely the case), I just want to maximize my chances for a successful climbing day, complete with a solid workout. Last time we were there, we ended up spending more time trying to find stuff than climbing (hence only two climbs...actually really just one with two different finishes). Maybe we will tick off a few climbs near cracker cliff first to ensure some climbing. After a couple pitches, maybe we will just try to pick an easy rock and see if there are some easy cracks that go. Things lower down the canyon as it opens up look like they have some seriously easy faces. Granted you have to climb a 500ft tall kitty litter dune...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Feb 24, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
Be thankfull of those tall pismo beach approaches...It narrows down the field and has left INCREDIBLE stone to be conquered by those willing to sweat, huff, puff and puke their way up to them! And let me tell you its a THOUSAND times easier AFTER the Acorn burn than it was BITD....It was a manzanita HELL back then...


theres always suicide falls routes "beulah the pumper" is a 5.7,, three or 4 pitches...Granite not the best for the canyon by any means, but ok for a sunny venture. Shortish approach, pleasant scenery, water fall etc..
Manimal

climber
SLT, Ca
Feb 24, 2012 - 06:14pm PT
what's up with those "other" areas Ron? do you have more detail on the cliffs between the fortress and suicide falls? I hiked all the way up the canyon passing the penile pillar (what's that insanely beautiful crack on the east side of that?!!) and crossed the canyon, to the east, continued up and right, crossing another canyon where I came accross a face that faces west with some longish cracks on it. Scoped that out and continued down where in a large alcove came across some anchors above a crazy overhanging feature.....any info appreciated!!!
justin01

Trad climber
sacramento
Feb 24, 2012 - 06:53pm PT
How bad is the rock in suicide falls area? Is it worth it? 4 pitches sounds pretty nice to me. Is the R for bad rock or for easy runout face? Got a topo, all I see is a description.
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Feb 24, 2012 - 06:58pm PT
Justin,
There's a couple of good moderates past the second alcove. I don't know if they're in the PDF, but there's a great 5.7 hand crack, a cool 5.9 finger crack and a funky 5.8 offwidth. I'd be happy to show you but i'm gonna try to get some skiing in this weekend. If it stays warm, email me and I'd be happy to cruise up to the Canyon with you.

Eric
shiva5277@hotmail.com
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Feb 24, 2012 - 08:50pm PT
Manimal,, the striking east face crack on the pillar is "way the hell up there" 11C,, FA DAno.


The gullies up and beyond have been explored but i dont know particulars, but there is good stuff up there and to the west as well,, near the "glowering spot" - a huge very visable block like hole that contains obvious roofs seen from the highway on "orange wall". Crawford did a route through the wall- quality HARD stuff!

The area between the suicide falls and the fortress have many gullies that are sided by rock and contain some stellar waiting lines! There were a few section 20 type climbs put up through these masses, but they were never topoed due to their wandering nature and mixed climbing (aid/free) and you may find anchors or fixed stuff from those climbs or descents from those climbs in ODD locations ...

Basically, MOST reaches above the main lower band of rock have new stuff jut waiting, and some of it is STELLAR.


As for Suicide,,,yes run out easy face I believe-Mostly easy pitches aiming for small obvious features like a small corner about half way up the face-most pitches back then werent even a full 150 in length also...It has spots of ok rock, and good anchors is it worth it? Well i put up a few routes on it although most were run out at some point,, but the "flavour" of the faces i guess is the attraction there, and not the rock quality or asthetics. Its worth a look if your adventurous. It has had a bit more attention and i think some of my routes my now have some bolts on them protecting runout sections also....And a new route or two reported to me by other climbers. Havnet seen any topos as yet.

Thje "flying block" was named for a HUGE solid block i ran into as part of a stcked corner, that when i touched it , decided to become one with gravity. It was easily eight feet long by four feet thick and eight feed wide...Belayer was out of the wat but it was a FABULOUS trundle into the creek,, purt near explosive!
Manimal

climber
SLT, Ca
Feb 25, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
Thanks Ron. It's nice to know there is plenty of adventure and fresh stone in the back yard, even in 2012. I hiked out to Pleasant Valley a couple summers having seen a blurb somehwere's and saw some beautiful stone. Didn't know how accommodating the fishing reserve folks are so parked up the road a way. Is that eally private property to the trail head? Is there an alternative approach from Grover side?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Feb 25, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
Yep,, pleasant valley is owned by the dresller family and they have closed the access to the trail head--an organization called "freinds of Hope Valley" are fighting it- unsure of current status though... Alternate approach to those awsome pleasant valley formations can be done from the burnside lake area, or upper blue lakes road- parking near jeff davis peak and hiking across to the NE to the tops of those crags...From burnside lake it is a short diatance down onto the tops of said crags as well. Those formations have some STELLAR stuff waiting,, waiting,, and waiting..

Adventure is hardly dead,, and GOLDEN ages are happening in these new areas!

Ubber alpine stuff can be had on Markleeville and Raymond peaks as well- on the south-west end of pleasant valley.. Too bad about the access being cut off--the children of the Dresslers are responsible for it and the Forest service doesnt seem to interested in securing access to their own trail head.....Local politics in action...
Meagher

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Mar 27, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
Never been to Woodfords to climb, but after driving by it thousands of times and thinking it looked like a good place to climb, I am thinking about heading there to check it out soon. From reading this forum it sounds like there is climbing on both the North and South side of the road is that correct?

At this point I am pretty out of shape so I am looking for the routes the easier side, any recommendations? Anything about the area, approach, parking that I should be aware of before I go?

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Mar 27, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
the Apron is a close to the road crag with some moderates.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Mar 27, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
sssooo who can tell me about "bandit crag" in Woodfords??
GILL

climber
Minden, NV
Mar 29, 2012 - 11:49am PT
What part of the canyon is Bandit Crag at?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Mar 29, 2012 - 11:50am PT
dunno...Ive only heard mention of it....
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Mar 29, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
Ron I have the topo to bandit if your around your shop I'll drop it by today.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Mar 29, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
Bandit buttress
Bandit buttress
Credit: BurnRockBurn

This is bandit buttress. Heading west from Woodford station about half a mile there is a huge parking area on the left. Park there. Head across the highway and you should find a well defined trail. There are four bolted climbs on it. Ill try to get the topo on it later. To the left is a 5.7-5.8 bolted crack (A break in security)...(I didnt do it so leave it alone) It is actually a really good place to teach trad leading as if they get nervous there is a bolt to clip instead of gear. Middle route is 5.8 bolted (Prowler). It shares and anchor with the next climb to the right of it at 5.9 (cat burglar). Around the side is a 4 bolt 5.10 (Cervazas in Zapata Land) All FA by Brian Chandler and Larry Van Sant
Theme is "leave the gear and bring the beer"
70 Meter rope is needed expecially for "break in security"

There is a trad route further to the right of Cervezas in Zapata land I put up in 2008 5.8 R that follows a corner system to the top. No anchor with a walk off. FOLLOF (Fear of Love Love of Fear

The gulley to the left of Bandit Buttres is a 3 route trad wall called April Fools wall. Put up by Dan Kennedy and Myself 4-1-08
You can see it to the left in the above picture
April Fools Wall <br/>
Chim pulling up the bag o drill for the anchor plac...
April Fools Wall
Chim pulling up the bag o drill for the anchor placement
Credit: BurnRockBurn
Anchors are below the tallest point where Dan is hanging out
Dirty 5.8 to the left
Middle crack 5.10 (where the pig is in the pic)
Right crack is 5.9
Can be run out before the anchors. Place a small cam at your feet on a ledge or you run it our 20+ feet to anchors.

Enjoy
Shawn
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Mar 29, 2012 - 10:01pm PT
Thanks for the info man! ^^^^ Had heard mention of it and just wondered where it was zakkly...;-)
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 7, 2012 - 09:15pm PT
What are the routes on the back of one of these days? a bolted face, a red tagged bolt, short dihedral and some stuff across the gully
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 8, 2012 - 09:33pm PT
All I hear is woodfords, woodfords, woodfords now I need a little info and nata. has the woodfords crew lost interest?
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 8, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
Finally got on "one of these days" today. Great route, even though I missed the onsight by about 10 feet. I'll be back:)
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 8, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
That's definately an awesome route and there are many other cool lines around I'm trying to get a hold of a topo for some of the surrounding routes. Tomorrow afternoon I think will just climb what looks good and figure it out later.
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 8, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
There were a few folks climbing on the cliff directly across the creek from One of these days. Don't know what they were on but it looked pretty fun.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 8, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
Yeah, Climbed over there on sun. The routes we did were a bit dirty but fun.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
May 9, 2012 - 12:19am PT
Finally got on "one of these days" today. Great route, even though I missed the onsight by about 10 feet. I'll be back:)


Good go, Gomez! Did you "warm up" on it? I barely squeaked out the onsight with OOTD as a warmup and I will NOT be doing that again. I got away with something on that one. Let me know when you're headed back there, that would be some good endurance training for the bigger stuff ;).

The face climb(s) to the left of OOTD look pretty righteous as well.

GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 9, 2012 - 12:25am PT
Yep "warmed up" on it I was pretty warm within the first 20 or so feet though:) I messed up at the top and tried to go too high, fell off and hung and saw the right way, felt like 5.9 once I saw the line. Oh well, I'll get it next time. That thing is pumpy though for sure.
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
May 9, 2012 - 12:43am PT
good job Gomez!!! there is a decent .10a to the right that is good to warm up on. not great, but does serve as a good warm up. You can also TR a sweet .11 off the ten as well. I'll give you a shout tomorrow and catch up with ya!!

GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 9, 2012 - 01:00am PT
Cool Dave, been wanting to catch up with you too. Need to tell you about skiing in AK, it was epic!!
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
May 9, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
Gomez,
Let me know when you're headed back out there. I'm off on weekends!!!
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
May 9, 2012 - 07:23pm PT
kenny t - i believe the short corner is a 5.9 and fun. then up and next to it a bolted 5.9ish. then behind that is a 10c- ish thing called green tongue, i think, not positive on the name. then to the right down lower from that is a 5.8 route and have fun.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 9, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
Thank's czar
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 10, 2012 - 12:37am PT
Yeah Freido, I will, sounds good!!
Chim-Chim

climber
May 10, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
Gomz, saw you out there on Tuesday... nice work. Heh there's an excellent warm up up stream from where Sasha and I were climbing. There's an obvious pink swath leaving the creek where a large slide crashed into the wall many years ago. It's a 5.8 called Crazy Creek. A bit run-out but stand up climbing, and very little pulling. Also up and right along the ramp from where we were messing around are a few lower angle climbs. Its been alittle warm in the sun, we got pretty baked on wedddnesday. Did you notice the large rock scar up past ootd? Two 100 ft. route are no more... they fell off two winters ago.:o,:(
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
May 10, 2012 - 03:06pm PT
sorry the canyon is now closed due to budgetary constraints..;-D

howz it hangin you canyonadders?




edit: we NEED to uuurganize a woodfords git-togedda sometime this summa. get some of the crustys gathered to tell some yarns..swill various imported ales and whutknott.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
May 10, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson

woodfords on the cover- "cat scratch fever" the route..
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
May 12, 2012 - 12:12am PT
was down in the "fords" today..Mama cat has had some upgrading---yeahhhh thats it! Was sad to see the two missing bolts still missing on LedZep Arete though..
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 12, 2012 - 02:47am PT
Chim-chim, thank you! I will definitely check those out. I did in fact notice the rockfall area, it looked fairly new so that makes sense. What were the routes you guys were climbing.

Thanks,
Steve
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 12, 2012 - 07:21pm PT
anyone have a topo for cloudburst canyon they are willing to share?
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
May 13, 2012 - 03:14am PT
Damn you guys are killin me with woodfords talk. As Dave G knows I'm In the middle of moving and can't get my cragging on for a while. Ron I've been saying for years we need a good ole get together in the canyon. Hopefully this summer/fall we can set something up. Have fun out there and hope to be out in a couple of weeks


Credit: BurnRockBurn
Ativan grin 10b. Longest Left leaning white streak on the right side of pic and Halcion hallucination 5.9 to the right. Another 5.9 ish to the right of Halcion
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 13, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
Ron, Dano told me about that arete behind the cabin in the early 90s and I stopped by and there were no bolts up high then. I don't know whats up with that you could steal two hangers without hardly leaving the ground. I live two minutes away pm me if you want to fix it up it looks perty cool.
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 13, 2012 - 05:39pm PT
Sweet thanks BRB!!
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
May 15, 2012 - 01:37am PT
Kenny.
Ron gave me some hardware to fix that route a couple years ago. If you want to go out and fix it I'm in. Unfortunately my hardware is buried in storage for two weeks. If you have some I will replace it with bolts from Ron's donation. What's your schedule like? I have Friday sat Sunday off. Friday probably is best for me but I'm flexible
Shawn

Gomz. Your welcome. Those were my first routes I ever put up. Three days hanging to clear out the cracks.
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
May 16, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
Gomez,
I know of 5 plus routes near One Of These Days that you might enjoy. I did two onsights the other day. and there are three to five other climbs I know of in Cloudburst Canyon. Let's try to get out there soon!
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
May 16, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
A guide (even photo copied hand drawn would work) giving the general lay out would sell...
Otherwise, I think I'll just go walk up to some rock and climb...

What could possibly go wrong with that plan? ;-)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
May 16, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
there are pdfs of my old guide here and at mtn project
Chim-Chim

climber
May 17, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
There are over thirty routes in Cloudburst Canyon. The climbs we were on from left to right are 5.9 corner leaving the creek, a 510d arete T.R,on the right margin of thesmall wall fifty feet to the right. The nice finger crack to the right goes at 5.10a and can be used to set up the other routes. The two other climbs that the anchor serves are a 5.10d finger crack(leadable) and the double arete to the right, goes at 5.11a or so and I'm considering bolting it... it's pretty rad. Anyway weve been going out there ridding the climbs of the winters' filth so most of the climbs up there should be in good shape. By the way did anyone find my camera up there? A Canon digi? I'm kinda bummed because I had some shots in there for the upcoming guide. I have two experts working on finishing this up. We'll be up at High Energy on saturday till mid to late afternoon. Peace Dn


Oh yeah Jerome put new chains on Atvian Grin the old one's were getting pretty rusty, the climb to the right with a single bolt finihing section is 5.11 a or so and is excitng.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
May 26, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
up in Markleeville for the weekend. Haven't climbed in South Lake area. Woodfords sounds cool. Would love to know where mixed climbs are (crack, face?). Any info greatly appreciated.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jun 28, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
Anybody wanna climb there tomorrow?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jul 3, 2012 - 06:33pm PT
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Short but fun route at Woodcutters wall what is it?
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 3, 2012 - 06:43pm PT
Unnamed as of Ron's old guide. Dan may have climbed and named it by now. Nice little climb though. Keep heading up the hill to "the steeple". Fun stuff up there. Dan has beta on mountain project
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Jul 4, 2012 - 01:52am PT
thats a 10c or d. super fun.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jul 20, 2012 - 07:14pm PT
Shiny new anchor up and right of the green tongue. What is it? Doe's anyone know the projected date of completion of the low angle route down and right of that?
Chim-Chim

climber
Aug 4, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
If you're refering to the anchor down and right of a small pine tree and above a nice finger crack finish... that the Ent 5.10d six or seven years old. The low angle face 5.11+ needs ten bolts... I'm saving up.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Aug 4, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
Credit: kennyt
Dan, I'll hook you up with a few bolts never noticed those anchors before looked new. If you need some bolts pm me
Chim-Chim

climber
Aug 9, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
Slings found behind OOTD, identify yourself... Kenny?
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Aug 12, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
hey, i found one grey sock(not sticky) and a nice one dollar bill at the base of that 5.9 plus dihedral across from green tongue. im keeping the dollar. also dan, one in my party released a torso sized block off duststorm. its at the base, buried in the dirt. later.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Aug 12, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
Kenny and chim

I'll split the bolt count and anchors with you for cloud walker
Just want to be in on that one. Been wanting to finish that one with chim for a couple years. Chim and I had the bolt placements marked a couple years ago and got caught up on other projects.
Keep me in the loop when you want to do it. Busting ass on Burningman stuff right now but would be ready to hit it after the burn
Shawn
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Aug 12, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
Hey Shawn, You and Dan should bolt that thing up. I'm just offering some bolts and hangers if you guy's need them. Kenny
Credit: kennyt
Any of you guy's climb this thing at S.T.Buttress?
Chim-Chim

climber
Aug 14, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
Czar... It's hard to get a dirty sock pregnant...huh? Thanks for the trundle sesh. Heh Shawn I'll remark the bolt holes... it rained. I have to recharge my battery for that climb. Milt
Silver

Gym climber
Aug 14, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
I wanna come out and play with you guys some day soon.

Looks really good.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Aug 14, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
the canyon is starting to get wierd lol! socks and dollars? hmmmmmmm lemme guess, the dollar bill looked like it had been rolled into a STRAW!?

Im gonna go steal two bolts off some other climb to replace the ones stolen on LedZep arete. So if you find a climb MISSING a couple, youll know who/what!;-D
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Aug 15, 2012 - 10:18am PT
Ron I Havnt forgot to replace the stolen ones there. Chim we will get together soon. Tell Sasha hello from shanada
Shawn
CHOSS BOSS

Trad climber
Crumbly Corners
Aug 29, 2012 - 08:00pm PT
Where in the hell is Woodferds?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Aug 29, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
Same place it's always been.

Where the hell are you?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
A one-of-a-kind finish...

Credit: Footloose

Oops, wrong thread. (Blame it on the strawberry daiq.)

Don't be jealous, Woodfords, I'll be back, we're still bff!
CHOSS BOSS

Trad climber
Crumbly Corners
Sep 3, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
CRICKETS...............................
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
If any locals want to drop in, I'll be at Woodfords tomorrow for a few sets on One of These Days. Just let me know.

My shoulders and back need strength maintenance if not building, ha! for an upcoming high sierra project. Took it for granted on a recent Mithral Dihedral ctc that ended up spanking them. And me. Humbly. (Of course, one could also argue it was my lousy core and footwork given that glorious crack, I wouldn't argue the point.)

At my age, there's no more taking this sport for granted. Serious stuff!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
Yes, Woodfords has been a heavenly place of late. Inspiration for next time...
Woodfords
Woodfords
Credit: Footloose

Plenty of 4th and easy 5th, too, for you wilderness explorer types as well. Lots of easy 5th FAs, too, for the kids. 'Tis the season on the sunny south-facing side. At least through tomorrow!

More later, woo-hoo!

Two really fun climbs here above Sun Wall
Two really fun climbs here above Sun Wall
Credit: Footloose
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2012 - 05:38pm PT
Hey all,

I'm looking for a few bolts and hangers to establish a little something out my way: Jobs Peak foothills area.

Sunny Delight, 100 feet, vertical with a roof pull, liebacks, plates, ...
Sunny Delight, 100 feet, vertical with a roof pull, liebacks, plates, nubbins and cracks - reminiscent of OoTD except southwest facing like Sun Wall at Woodfords
Credit: Footloose

Kenny, any of these left you might want to part with?

Credit: kennyt

Thanks.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Nov 15, 2012 - 07:21pm PT
Foot,, congrats on making the trudge up to the jobst canyon stuff! Did a wide crack up there once..We never did go back for any of the other.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 15, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
Bill, I'm sure I could spare a few.


Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
Good to hear, Kenny!

Thanks you guys, let's just have back that outrageous sunny warm weather once again now!

So we can all get back to cragging on those awesome south facing sides!
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 16, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
Bill the climb on the right that you posted November 5 is called Way the Hell Up There, 5.11c The climb on the Left is Pineal Pillar 5.10a O.W. I placed an anchor on top, it needs chains as to could see. The anchor also serves as a rappel for a few climbs that lead out the the notch behind the formation in your photo. Possibly the best 5.10c crack in Woodfords follows the right hand crack leaving the notch it.s called Serenity Now way better rock than OOTD. Not as steep though... obviouslly. Dan
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Nov 16, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
the fortress has some GREAT climbing in it.. One of the more over looked formations on that side. As is the "orange wall".. I WISH i was thirty again- there are so many stellar routes waiting to be- thankfully there are you young guns taking up the slack. the orange wall just may have the best routes in the canyon- who knows.. Crawdaddy was quite vague with his route description on that formation when i prodded him and i knew very well why.;-)
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 26, 2012 - 10:39am PT
Went up to the Fortress on Friday with Sashthe Czar and Ash... ran into Sigi Vogel a first ascentionist during the original exploration of the canyon. Heading up ao climb Yellow Fin an excellent four pitch 5.10c, the third pitch rivals OOTD as the best 5.10 pitch in the area. If you want to climb the longer routes time is running out cuz one good storm can shut down climbing up high ... unless your English or something. D.K.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2012 - 11:39am PT
Chim, good to hear.

Hey, what bolt standard, or standards, are you using in Woodfords nowadays?



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kqwxN8u_9w&feature=player_embedded

BTW,

It's interesting that 3/8 sleeve anchors only have a 5/16 threaded core. That leans me as a noob bolter to think of preferring the wedge anchor whose size matches the threaded core. Example: 3/8 equals 3/8. But then I'm only a noob thinking about this.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 26, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
foot,, the BEST thing you can do is NOT witch vids like the above lol! Tourque wrenches?? canned air?? hmmmm......


And DONT worry about the bolt thickness- a 3/8 five piece is strong enough to hang elephants off of..
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 26, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
Bill, call white cap in reno and order up powers (formerly rawl) 5 piece 3/8 x 2 1/2 stainless steel and your good to go. those thinks are good to like 7000lb in shear in good granite
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 26, 2012 - 12:34pm PT
I once did a hanging belay on a 1 l/4 " leeper split shaft contraction bolt that dinner plated half way down the shaft. Held two of us.. A bolt is a quite BOMBER thing - normally.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
I checked into White Cap, guy's going to call me back with price.

bolts vs studs

So is there a push in Woodfords to go with removeable bolts rather than nonremoveable studs?

I mean, if I set a few anchors with SS wedge studs now that it's the 21st century, not the 20th, anyone like Kenny or Dan or Ron (or that guy in the video using a torque wrench) going to bitch slap me for my choice? :)



Or maybe I'm just overthinking it and should just go get it done.

Yeah, just go get it done. LOL!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 26, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
sup tu yu.. I always went with the five piece rawls- never an issue. The plastic sleeves on them act as a gasket as well-- a tad more rust resistant.

Used them from 2.5 to 5" depending upon the rock. Any and ALL bolts can be removed.


a lot of the bolts ive placed locally have been in there for 20 years now.

All solid still.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 26, 2012 - 02:27pm PT
Bitch slap them back.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 26, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
bitch slaps are so eighties mannnn... Now its all about the dueling .;-)

If ya screw the pooch Foot,, youll get the whacked.. stacked,,, and LIME- afied. Yur gear will be distributed amongst the boulderz and yur vehicle set afire. (jk)...

By the way, Bandit crag was the start of a multi pitcher and retroed bolts exist on that first pitch.


in other news,, seeing Sigis name above,, i have news of the perfect Lieback. It seems it was done in the ealry 70s,,73/74 by Rick Sumner and crew. Was brushy back then. So Sigi and Bill may not have done the actual FA as they thought in the later 70s or 80s. And Royal Robbins was doing classes there in the early 70s now and then- he may have done the fa of the west wall route on the Apron..
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 26, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
Bill, Make sure you leave fixed draws on everything you bolt if you want to maximize the supertopo expert bitch slappin.

I walked all the way up to bandit crag and no fixed draws wtf who's in charge up there? below are a few other items which may come in handy on your bolting adventure

supervising supertopians
supervising supertopians
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
some of these in neon green or orange should do
some of these in neon green or orange should do
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 26, 2012 - 04:45pm PT
snicker^^^^^^...

Yes ALWAYS carry your can o air along,, fits easily and well in a hip pocket -!!!!!!!!!!!!!!;-) ( sheeeesh ive seen everything now!)
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 26, 2012 - 04:51pm PT
Credit: kennyt
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 26, 2012 - 04:54pm PT
Puuufekt^^^^^^should fit between the harness loops and such! quick draw blow jobs!!!

Wonder how long it will take that guy in the vid to realize he has free shyt in his lungs??


Know whats funny to do to partners that havent placed a bolt before??

Give em a STRAW to blow the hole out with...Woiks eeeevery time!;-D

Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 27, 2012 - 11:20am PT
Bill we've been using 3/8" bolts... shorties unless placed in overhanging rock. I like the wedge bolts fro fixe, but they take a bit more care to place. Power bolts are easier. Both kinds are plenty strong as are KennyT's choice of hardware, his are more cost effective. Had a good day made it up YelloowFin... still as good or better than OOTD and better still four pitches long. Dan
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 27, 2012 - 11:59am PT
got topo of Yellow fin?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 27, 2012 - 12:26pm PT
Credit: kennyt
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Nov 27, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
yeah dan, great climb with a great crux and still a fun eggy finish, thanks for gettin me up there. get on it!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 27, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
What's an "eggy finish"?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 27, 2012 - 08:38pm PT
slimy? sticky?




mon now,, give us a topo of the yeller fin..

Everyone compares the new found lines to OOTD...hrmfff. Now lets see it!;-)
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 28, 2012 - 01:56pm PT
Credit: Chim-Chim
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 28, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
well ok,,, but i see at least two diff routes..Got pics??;-D
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Nov 28, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
Ah, you're being cute. There's some cool looking, obvious lines past Jammin' for Jehovah, I imagine it's up in there somewhere.
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 28, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
Unfortunately, Yelllowfin lies between Topographic Ocean and Hand of God on the Long left trending slap directly across the gully from Searing for Jesus and Jammin for Jehovah, and I haven't drawn the detils here some narrative info. The first pitch climbs a polished chgimneys to a right facing flake to flair. 5.10b 140ft. The second wanders up on the side way after a short left-facing corner/ramp. A knob tie-off marks the traverse left on to e sideway proper. Follow double crack past around and past some bushes to a stance belay at bolts.5.9 150 ft. Step right and follow easy cracks through a small roof and a stance below a hand crack to finger crack in a flake. This crack lies fifteen feet to the right of the arete leading to giant triangular shaped roofs.(The cf\rack directly to the right of the aret is the last part of the third pitch of Topographic Oceans... the left climb on the topo. Follw the finger crack(crux) to a tips cetion below a bulge, drop down and right then up an easier stemmingh section. The egg shaped summit cap, 5.6x leads to the top I'll look for some photos to post.
Credit: Chim-Chim
. The grey slab can be seen on the second formation from the left. It faces east on host some of the highest quality rock in the canyon.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 28, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
ahhhh thank you, and YEs that rock is tits!

NICE addition to the canyon that is!!



what we REALLY need is a flight through the canyon to photograph it...!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 05:18pm PT
what we REALLY need is a flight through the canyon to photograph it...

Woodfords Fortress Google Earth
Woodfords Fortress Google Earth
Credit: Footloose and Google Earth

Ron, Google Earth. It's the source.



Of course the app does a much better job than this pic of course.

Same picture, marked up:

Fortress Area, Woodfords. <br/>
Yellow circle:  Perfect Lieback.  Red Circ...
Fortress Area, Woodfords.
Yellow circle: Perfect Lieback. Red Circles: Routes that recently kicked my ass!! :)
Credit: Footloose

By all means, get Google Earth, if you don't already have it.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 28, 2012 - 05:29pm PT
ive earthed it- and its ok,,, but KNOTT nice LEVEL arial photohwwws.


Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
One more, a close up, of an interest of late:
Credit: Footloose

Worthy!
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:29pm PT
Bill. the main alcove is good huh! Here;s a topo
Credit: Chim-Chim
Here's a shot at the Woodhood
Credit: Chim-Chim
This photo is shot of the first pitch of Topographic Oceans, a four pitch 5.11a. It was the first climb that I did to the top of any formation at The Fortress and still one of best. A California Classic.
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:32pm PT
Bill. the main alcove is good huh!
Credit: Chim-Chim
This photo is shot of Dirka.dirka just to the left of the first pitch of Topographic Oceans, a four pitch 5.11a. the first climb that I did to the top of any formation at The Fortress and still one of best. A California Classic.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
cool pics! Twice even..;-)
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
I wunder when KennyT's gunna hike up the the clean side of the canyon?
Credit: Chim-Chim
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Nov 28, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
we really need a gondola up there, right Kennyt?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 28, 2012 - 07:43pm PT
I think the gondolas a few years out. Hey Dan, Bauer was gonna give me the tour but he's leaving town for a few maybe you can show me around next time your heading up. looks like it's going to be wet for a few.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 28, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
Andre, How's the foot doing?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 28, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
After a holiday weekend trip to the gorge the solitude of Woodfords sound's awesome
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 28, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
That's f*#ked up.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 28, 2012 - 09:40pm PT
the next time they take your leading license let them keep it!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 28, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
some bouldering essentials you may have overlooked.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#275995
approved padding and spotter
approved padding and spotter
Credit: kennyt
colorful body art
colorful body art
Credit: kennyt
encouraging onlookers
encouraging onlookers
Credit: kennyt
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Nov 28, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
too late for that advice Kenny.

Its been fun, but this is a pretty good thread. Too much much drift. I am deleting my posts.
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Nov 29, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
Kenny,
I know a few routes on the fortress. I'd be happy to show you when it's dry...
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 30, 2012 - 10:55am PT
Kenny I tried to post up yesterday. When the weather clears, Lets meet up and get on some routes. I think this warm storm won't affect the climbing at the 'fords, at least the base routes.
Credit: Chim-Chim
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 30, 2012 - 10:58am PT
That sounds good a little woodfords windstorm should dry things right up.
JerryA

Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:21am PT
Topic Official Sponser : www.woodfordreserve.com .
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:39am PT
Should be good, the czar, sasha and I will be there... weather permitting.
Credit: Chim-Chim
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:49pm PT
Credit: kennyt

Woodfords today. soggy
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:58pm PT
Credit: kennyt


woodfords mon....
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
Hopefully, the legendary micro-climate will allow some excellent cragging. I know of quite a few routes that don't have a real flat top, with no rock above to receive any additional water, other than which falls directly on the climb. So it may be possible. Mr. Personality, located in the first alcove is an excellent arete. Check out mtproj. Ears to You , should be dry as well as some stuff up around the corner to the left of Donnie G and the secind alcove. Topographic and The Hand of God should be dry by the afternoon. D.K.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
Bolting experts, a question or two...

Credit: Footloose

What's the theory behind using the little blue plastic piece atop the sleeve? I mean why not just go with the metal sleeve all the way to the end? If you get my meaning...

Credit: Footloose

What say you if I mounted a carbon steel hanger atop an SS bolt, is that a major faux pas in the business?

Thanks for your help.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:27pm PT
that plastic sleeve compresses into a gasket of sorts- helps slow the rust factor..



edit: ive installed with and without.. no biggie..


edit : Not sure what you mean by " mount atop an ss bolt"???
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
If you remove the blue sleeve you may void the warranty therfore opening yourself up to a costly lawsuit

http://www.powers.com everything you need to know about the 5 piece bolts and the blue compression ring
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
But you're neglecting the 20 sec rule: if you replace the blue sleeve within 20 seconds, you're good! ;)

Ron, I simply mean mixing an SS bolt and a CS hanger (for lack of an SS hanger) - would that get me bitch slapped by you guys?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
Bill, Ive placed hundreds of cs bolts with ss hangers bitd and the only thing I've noticed is the washers rust a little paint the hangers if your worried about it if the two metals aren't in contact galvanic corrosionc shouldn't occur. If your going to spend the $$$$ on ss bolts why not fork out the extra buck for a compatible hanger?


You will probably be bitched slapped anyhow

Stainless steel hangers from metolius 3.50

Fixe plated steel hanger 2.40
bolt now pay later
bolt now pay later
Credit: kennyt
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
Hey Footloose, there are plenty of stainless steel hangers up at the bandit crag next to those cracks.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 03:24pm PT
Kenny, you're crackin me up over here, lol!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
I have cabin fever today
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 30, 2012 - 07:30pm PT
Credit: kennyt
woodfords 4:30 pm
Chim-Chim

climber
Dec 2, 2012 - 11:27am PT
Looks like it could be possible. its pouring on lower Ski Run blvd. If it stops by early evening, it could be in condition. Skiing could be grim.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 2, 2012 - 01:37pm PT
It's been pouring all night here. one mile from the canyon
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 2, 2012 - 03:06pm PT
I'd think it would be better, make some of that sand stick together. I've done the approach in the rain, I don't remember it being terrible beyond the usual huff and puff. Give us a crack report if you go up, so we know which ones retain the moisture after a rain storm ;).

I bet shallow cracks and face climbs would be good to go with a little wind and sun, not sure about the deeper sort. To this day though, I've only climbed Quoia in the rain. It added something as the moss became slimy.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 2, 2012 - 03:08pm PT
go now,, practice yur EIGER psyche!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
Yeah, I'm in... the Eiger psyche!
2 dec 2012, East side, Tahoe Rim Trail
2 dec 2012, East side, Tahoe Rim Trail
Credit: Footloose

The Eiger psyche is a rare bird. None but mine manifest this morning.

2 dec 2012. Summit photo
2 dec 2012. Summit photo
Credit: Footloose

Can you all tell which way the wind was blowing? LOL!
Chim-Chim

climber
Dec 2, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
If it's 50 degress in Reno with light winds not east that is, it should be fine up there. Firm sand on the approach will help. I be Jammin stays wet, OULD should be good as well as Whisker Bisquit and Walking Jack, The Books should be fine as well as the routes that rise above the belay platform. I'd go for sure but I'm goin to the Kirkwood. Have fun.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Dec 3, 2012 - 01:00am PT
So where's the camping around there? The only reason I haven't made it up there more than once was because I couldn't figure out where any plush (free) camping was. Also, I could really use a tour guide.


On another note, you guys are crazy if you're using Metolius hangers. Those are so 90's and like getting Starbucks when 7-11 will do.
In good faith I'll let you all onto my secret. ClimbTech gear has stainless hangers for 2.45, but you can talk em down to 1.95 if you get 100 bucks or more. They also have plated steel hangers for 1.65ea and Powers stud bolts for 1.75ea which is a pretty good deal. There's a good sale going on for 5/16 quicklinks for .75 cents each too.

So, about that tour guide?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 01:52am PT
Sal,

Good to hear you're eyeing Woodfords again. Unfor I can't do tomorrow (looks like only partly sunny anyways, via point forecast) but let's get on it !! next sunny weather break as I've been wanting to get together a long time now. Are high temps required? Hell no. Because winter side is all south facing and when hit by the sun in these alcoves she gets warm even at 45.

Now of course a tour is going to cost you later this spring though - I'm thinking a partner - adventurous, hard-driving - either at the Hulk, Keeler or at this Angel Wings spectacle.

Next sunny weather, I'll PM you.

Maybe you can get out weekdays also.



P.S. I discovered ClimbTech (thanks again BT), and ordered bolts, hangers and quick links from them just last week. It was a good deal.



http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.78781013665601&lon=-119.80865478515625

Next weekend forecasted sunny, maybe.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 3, 2012 - 03:49am PT
So where's the camping around there? The only reason I haven't made it up there more than once was because I couldn't figure out where any plush (free) camping was. Also, I could really use a tour guide.


I would tour ya around, but they won't let me climb right now.

If you got there and couldn't find free camping, we'd need to revoke all that manly wandering in the woods stuff you carry on about ;). It's pretty easy, just go to one of the several pullouts that isn't a campground or a neighborhood and camp.

edit: Oh yeah, Footloose, if you can't find a partner, I'm doing Positive Vibes, hell or high water this next season. We'll see if I'm in "gunning" shape for that, I'm recovering from some broken sh#t right now, but I'll certainly swap leads.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 3, 2012 - 10:38am PT
I,love to spend my extra money on metolius hangers and expensive bolts.

Sal, there is more "plush"free camping than you could even imagine a stones throw away from the canyon
Chim-Chim

climber
Dec 3, 2012 - 10:52am PT
You can camp anywhere along the river that doesn't have a no camping sign, 16 days in a row. The eviction process won't stsrt till a sheriff gives you the date of departure so basically you can can as long as you want, just don't annoy anyone and you good to stay for extended periods of time. This time of year am sun is in short supply. D.K.
Chim-Chim

climber
Dec 3, 2012 - 11:20am PT
Credit: Chim-Chim
Chim-Chim

climber
Dec 3, 2012 - 11:21am PT
Credit: Chim-Chim
Upper Crystal Springs area, with the Steeple dominating the area. We're about six months away from enjoying the south side stuff.
Chim-Chim

climber
Dec 3, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
Howdit go over there?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 3, 2012 - 07:32pm PT
Dan, what route are you on in the above photo?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
Chim,

Didn't make it to Woodfords but the clearing in Carson Valley today was impressive...
Carson Valley, looking south to Woodfords
Carson Valley, looking south to Woodfords
Credit: Footloose

Next time you come through, I'll introduce you to one of my favorite local workout crags...
Carson Valley Sentinel
Carson Valley Sentinel
Credit: Footloose

I know you'd enjoy this one...
Sunny Delight, 100 feet, vertical with a roof pull, liebacks, plates, ...
Sunny Delight, 100 feet, vertical with a roof pull, liebacks, plates, nubbins and cracks - reminiscent of OoTD except southwest facing like Sun Wall at Woodfords
Credit: Footloose

Did you make it out to Kirkwood? what's the snow condition now up there?


Jebus, get strong, next spring we'll swing, woohoo!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 3, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
One of my favorite workout spots, I need to get up there!

Credit: kennyt
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 3, 2012 - 09:16pm PT
shoot Foot,, i know that crag.. Find any pins???


I fisrt thought it was up Jobs canyon lol...
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
Yeah, Ron, I knew posting that pic to the post might cause some confusion. I just wanted to stir the juices regarding bolting and what not. But the Jobs Peak expedition is still on, of course just have to wait out the season or the weather now. In the meantime, there is Woodfords and Carson Valley Sentinel to keep me fit.

You've been there, to CVS? How cool is that? Where haven't you been, ha! Never noticed any pins but I do have a pretty killer rope solo setup on Sunny Delight for sunny seasonal days like today. You're more than welcome to come by and have a go on it. Better than Dino Rock, yes. Better than that Prison Hill Crag, yes. Better than Washoe Boulders, yes. I do think you'd be impressed!

In fact, got a bit of a sunburn today. :)

One of my favorite workout spots

KT, we have much in common!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 3, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
i THINK i may have NAILED that crack about 1980. I did an aid climb there and a crack that was off towards the east side - im thikin it wasnt harder than 5.8.. i think i also left a pin or two near the top of the 5.8 unit for a rap. Cool that your furthering it along. It needs some tlc..;-)
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Dec 3, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
KWood was working on it's own definition of a $hit show this morning.
Not a single chair was loading until 10:15 and by then a rather large gathering had amassed at the base of chairs 5 and 6. % started running and the line grew as people bailed on 6 for 5. I think 6 started moving just as we decided to bail, probably around 11:30 or so.

The snow off trail wasn't that great, at least bottom of the mt. Skiable breakable (shudder) crust. I hate that word, but that's what it was. But not total tail grabbing, nearly impossible to ski breakable, you could turn on it, but it wasn't very good.

Did not hang out to find out if the high stuff ever got open. Congrats to those who stuck it out and maybe got some good skiing in.
It was kind of a disappointing day.

Kirkwood has an impressive amount of snow on the ground for early December however.
Chim-Chim

climber
Dec 4, 2012 - 10:32am PT
I couple of Knuckle-draggers blew me off, no call no show, so I ended going up to the Heav. The skiing was great albeit limited terrain. Kenny somehow that picture got mixed up with my Woodfords file. I think I'm climbing Church Bowl Tree, but I'm not sure.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
wml,

Here's the coordinates: 39.114912,-119.800251
There is a 30 minute approach to the CV Sentinel.

It works for me (1) because I'm local, (2) because it's right next to my running circuit. (I run to it, hop on Sunny Delight or Winters Haven, climb, descend, run some more. Some days, this is heaven on earth.)

Hope this helped. Maybe come spring, we'll get a chance to meet at Wordfords or something. I hear you like the high sierra endeavors as well. Any friend of the hs is a friend of mine. Happy climbing!



EDIT No, not true!
Those must be the coordinates to the brothel next to Ron's workplace, ha!!
Hang on, testing...

Trailhead: 39.091835, -119.805543
Sentinel: 39.102073, -119.815650

EDIT Actually, the first set of coordinates are to Dinosaur Rock.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 4, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
the crack climb we did was a bit crumbly- over on the far right side somewhere.. Thats all my notes said lol. 5.8-ish 1977. Ive been all over that hill, both sides. Mtn lions and bobcats there. Over the hill on upper clear creek has some interesting things too.


hey- they will appreciate the "link" Foot! i wont ask how you know the co-ords to kitkat!;-)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
Haha, might be old-school then, Ron.

Sunny Delight is 5.9+ or 5.10, depending on variation.
Winter's Haven, a short crack climb to climber's left, is 5.10.

Both likely to give a good pump to the 5.9 climber new to the site.
Drop on in next sunny weather you have Dinosaur Rock on your mind and I'll show.

P.s.

Recall The Left Seam at Dinosaur Rock. 10a (according to Carville), I don't know? But Sunny Delight is MORE than comparable in length and difficulty. Plus, it's in the sun in the winter noon on.

P.S. I'll have to revisit DR with the Carville Guide in hand to make sense of the route names. Now I'm confused. But SD is more than comparable to the two most popular routes on the main face facing the road, best way to say it.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 4, 2012 - 06:58pm PT

Jebus, get strong, next spring we'll swing, woohoo!


Spring would be too soon for my fling, I was thinking August/September. Plus, I'm a total snow/ice retard. Like, completely inept, so I need those flight paths cleared up there. I'll keep you on the roster though, I know you've been wanting to get up there and I will not be deterred from getting up Posi Vibes. I saw it from Red Dihedral this August and knew it would be mine, all mine next year.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 6, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
It's gonna be toasty here today.
Chim-Chim

climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 10:26am PT
Goin there with the Czar, aka the Cobra and possibly a few other badasses, are you gonne be there Kenny?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 7, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
Had work stuff today are you going up tomorrow?
Chim-Chim

climber
Dec 8, 2012 - 10:56am PT
Kenny, I'm working the next two days...Sat and Sun, the Czar aka the Cobra is going up sunday, my next day up there is on monday. It was a beautiful day. It's best to a get an early start, the sun ducks behind the mountains to the west real early in the afternoon... maybe 4 o'clock or so.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:56pm PT
Gang..What about the obvious rock above the hot springs up on the hill?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:00pm PT
Ron has the beta on that stuff.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:12pm PT
kennyt...do you guys need climbing partners?...I have a friend who just got a place in Markleeville and is looking for people to climb with...
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 8, 2012 - 07:04pm PT
sure, have him give a call(530) 694-1038 were heading out tomorrow morning
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Dec 8, 2012 - 09:14pm PT
Thanks Kenny!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
Right in our backyard.
Did you guys hear about this?

http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/lanow/2012/12/girlfriend-survives-boyfriend-dies-after-being-snowed-in.html

http://www.recordcourier.com/article/20121208/NEWS/121209915/1062&ParentProfile=1049

http://goo.gl/maps/SenWd

Damn.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 24, 2012 - 08:38pm PT
Christmas eve. @ the fortress
Credit: kennyt
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 24, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
What route is this?
Credit: kennyt
Chim-Chim

climber
Dec 25, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
KennyT, that route is The Center Route located on the Steeple, 5.12b. Many attempts, only one send slightly questionable though since the lad who sent it admitted to using the top of a nut as a finger-hold, rather than using a small finger-lock. That's Ryan C. in the picture. He almost got it but whipped at the top. D.K.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
Anyone get out to Woodfords today?

If so, how were the temp inversion effects? Especially at the Fortress area. I'm thinking of going tomorrow.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 16, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
Meet yer maker
Meet yer maker
Credit: kennyt
give me a call Bill.
you could climb here if you wanted
you could climb here if you wanted
Credit: kennyt
Spark Arrestor
Spark Arrestor
Credit: kennyt
Ugly Stick
Ugly Stick
Credit: kennyt
Static Cling
Static Cling
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
Will do Kenny, thanks.

Looking south along the Carson Range toward Woodfords 15 jan 2013
Looking south along the Carson Range toward Woodfords 15 jan 2013
Credit: Footloose
Chim-Chim

climber
Jan 18, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
Kenny, what's the approach to the fortress like?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 18, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
Hey Dan, The beginning is still pretty snow covered the steep section is pretty good someone was up there the otherday. so it's def. doable
Chim-Chim

climber
Jan 18, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
Thanks Kenny, we maybe heading up monday. Dan
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 18, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
Dan, I walked up to sunwall today, It was perfect I'm hoping to get up sun. or mon. too
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 19, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.7872749142083&lon=-119.81414794921875
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 21, 2013 - 08:48pm PT
Today around noon I saw 5 cars parked at the bottom of Fortress and three people on the bridge taking pictures. Anybody from ST?
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 21, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
Cool. Post some picks gentelmen!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
Lucky dogs!

Looks like it was a beautiful day down there. Thanks for posting up.


How you'd guys make out on Walking Jack?

On sight? Red point? Hanging jack? :)
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 22, 2013 - 01:25am PT
Thank you WML.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 22, 2013 - 09:07am PT
A #6 on Walking Jack? I think I led it safely with a 3.5" friend as the big piece? I love that crack, it's some good trad bouldering. I'm pretty sure it's not 5.10a though, Weston, you have a fascinating grade-o-meter ;).
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 22, 2013 - 11:32am PT
Yur just experiencing the grading of one Mr Jay Smith..Those sum wall routes,, all Jay..;-)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2013 - 11:42am PT
On the Perfect Lieback, it's always an issue for me: Where to put that first piece! Among other things, running it out can mean you REALLY REALLY trust your belayer. :)

That five foot section on Walking Jack has always humbled me. Maybe this season will be different, haha.


(If any of you guys rolling through the Carson Valley try out Sunny Delight at CV Sentinel, please let me know on the grade and rating, I'm looking for a consensus. So far it's 5.10 (not 5.9 afterall) and more than comparable in star quality to Dinosaur Rock's Color Me Gone. Sorry, Ron, lol. )
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
wml, yes, that flaring and frustrating (for me) crack section.

(Though I'd like to add I have a partner who not only floats it, but pauses in the middle of it after placing pro to beta me. Basterd, lol!)
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 22, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
Nice to see the Fords getting its winter gathering going on. Damn I need a break from work to get back out there......
April Fools Wall <br/>
Chim pulling up the bag o drill for the anchor plac...
April Fools Wall
Chim pulling up the bag o drill for the anchor placement
Credit: BurnRockBurn
I miss my second "Home"
Shawn
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 22, 2013 - 09:14pm PT

In no way do I think Walking Jack is actually 10a, fair 10c/+ish. I'm just saying that Sun Wall Left, comparatively, is extremely stiff for the grade.

I'd agree on SWL. I consider it 5.11a, although it's been more than a year since I got on it.

Woodfords is a Tahoe crag that doesn't seem to have the consensus other Tahoe crags do. Maybe that reflects true old school Tahoe area grades, not the creeping influence of road trippers and day trippers from the near west. To continue the dull rubric of comparison (at least on my ruler): If Cat Scratch Fever is 5.10a, I Be Jammin is easy 5.8+/9. If SWL is 5.10c, then Walking Jack is probably 5.10b, etc., etc....

For consistency, I mostly compare against the standard I see at other Tahoe crags to arrive at my personal grade, not using some sand bagged things at Woodfords to serve as my ruler against the climbs there. I mean, hell, you can go to Snowshed and rate everything by Karl's Gym if you want, but then Peter Principle is going to be 5.10c ;).

For true sand bagging at the Fords, go do a 5.9/10a called the Utah/NV border that is by the Hillside Strangler. It's the sneaky man's way of saying 5.9+! A Danno route I doubt many 5.10+ trad leaders will onsight. I wouldn't call it a great route, but it will certainly bitch slap the f*#k out of your ego if you hold to the grade.

kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 22, 2013 - 10:51pm PT
What difference does it make? It's a 5.12 approach to any of the routes

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.807610542357594&lon=-119.783935546875&site=rev&smap=1&marine=0&unit=0&lg=en


New and improved plus bolted anchor minus  bush
New and improved plus bolted anchor minus bush
Credit: kennyt
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 22, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
mr. burnrockburn, that april fools wall route you be doing looks an awful lot like a route Greg Dexter and i did 2 years ago. Wasn't no bolt, except near the top if i remember correctly, after we were done-just sayin....
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 11:24am PT
You mean Karl's gym and Nova aren't the golden standard for grading at Snowshed???! :-)


I got cleanly up Nova as a gym gumby crack n00b. 8+, tops ;).

Karl's Gym may just be a stylistic thing for me, some people find it easier than I do, but it sure seems harder than the 11- cracks I've done in the Donner area. Lead, TR, whatever, that crack dislikes me.

I guess it comes down to crag versus area ratings. In fact, I find grades remarkably consistent at most all the CA trad crags. From Joshua Tree to Tahquitz, Needles to Tuolumne, High Sierra to the Tahoe area, I'm never really thinking the grades are systematically off kilter (maybe Open Book was 5.10b though, hahaha).

There is a standard at Woodfords established by Smith and crew on certain routes, however, so it's a choice of honoring it or whitewashing it. I have my opinion of what the routes should be rated, of course, but if you honor the original while knowing it's going to be a testpiece there is really no harm except, perhaps, to the ego. I just don't think that standard necessarily applies to grading other routes, it's more of an asterisk deal.