Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Mar 19, 2013 - 12:05pm PT
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west wall rack: 3 draws, a number one and a number zero tcu, and a couple of slings (one for the bush, one for the belay.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Mar 19, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
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Thanks Ron! What about the weather there. I remember that climb being in the shade at later in the day in the summer. Is it in the sun in the winter?
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Mar 19, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
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If the sun shows, yes it will have a little, although the trees tend to block some of it. Weather says it will be re-warming on sat/sun..
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Chim-Chim
climber
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Mar 19, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
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Did those itty-bitty bolts get replaced on the W.W.R? I backed off after clipping the first bolt vjna problems. Apparently there are some anchors that have appeared on some nice climbs that areen't in Ron's book. We're going on friday, I'll report the conditions fri night. Dan
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Mar 19, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
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Yes,, Kenny replaced those 1/4 inchers with new shiny 3/8.. But the reports was that those ol bolts were still VERY SOLID in the placements.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Mar 19, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
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Thanks Dan...There were old bolts on it last year when I looked at it. I have some bolts and rap rings. I'm not quite set up for bolt replacement yet but if someone has a kit I'd be happy to replace when climbing it.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Mar 19, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
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uhhhhhh~~~~
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Chim-Chim
climber
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Mar 19, 2013 - 12:31pm PT
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Those small bristlers are tough to pull. Ron. we're going down to Moundhouse to pick up our mini-winnie... it's resting down there for the winter. Might do a bit off climbing at prison hill, I'll give you a shout when we come maybe we could meet up. Dan Been replaced as of this winter thanks to Kenny for the work.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Mar 19, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
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cool lemme know..Kenny put a pic of the bolts he pulled and they looked quite good for being there for around 35 years!
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Mar 19, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
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Slow on the draw...you guys much faster typers then I.......
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Mar 21, 2013 - 11:03pm PT
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Jebus H Bomz
climber
Peavine Basecamp
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Mar 21, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
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Nice work, Kenny! I'll have to give that one a go. We just TR'd one of those 5.8s, and that - ahem - 5.9+ to the left of the West Wall.
My bud wanted to throw an anchor on the 5.11 jam crack just above. Somehow, I don't think that will fly with the FA. What say you, Ron? I know many of your rigs have the dreaded convenience anchor nowadays, but not sure what you think about that one.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Mar 21, 2013 - 11:25pm PT
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That crack is nasty- and dangerous to boulder- some one ended up at the bottom of the west wall route after bailing. A TR anchor would be good there.
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Chim-Chim
climber
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Mar 21, 2013 - 11:36pm PT
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Jebus place a good anchor and that climb will get done more often, which is a good thing. Also does anyone have a good photo of the Apron, Cracker Cliff and Whites Wall I could use some good shots. I will fairly compensate anyone willing to part with a nice photo. Dan
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Mar 21, 2013 - 11:40pm PT
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Ive got ol blurrys,, but ill bet KennyT has sme nice ones!
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Chim-Chim
climber
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Mar 21, 2013 - 11:52pm PT
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Thanks Ron, I read the historical narrative you wrote for the guide. Great stuff, thanks again. Things are looking good , a couple more meetings and we should have this thing close to being wrapped up. Saving for the final throughs, painful since I want to put some money into my house. Sasha is ready to have numan habitation... whatever that means. D. K.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Mar 22, 2013 - 12:19am PT
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Great Dan,, and by human habitation are we talking the house ,, or her!??
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Jebus H Bomz
climber
Peavine Basecamp
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Mar 22, 2013 - 01:23pm PT
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Hey, good to hear the consensus for that anchor. I will tell my buddy, he was the one with the itchy drill finger. I talked him out of it until we got the say so, didn't want to cause any controversy in the canyon. But if the FAist and crew out there are on board, we will give it all systems go and get an anchor up there.
I'll let you all know when it happens, it may be a little bit because my friend is laid up with a foot injury right now. Probably be too hot up there soon anyway ;).
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Chim-Chim
climber
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Mar 22, 2013 - 09:30pm PT
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Jebus, thanks for getting the ok, there's never been any bolt wars at the fords, not one bolt has been chopped as far as I know. The probabally won't be one as long as another Bandit buttress doesn't occur, We went up to the Woodhood today... perfect temperatures a few summer areas are climbable in early morning and late afternoon right now so afternoon sessions with short approaches are available. Dan
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Mar 23, 2013 - 11:59am PT
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Dan I have a couple pics of whites if you want them
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SuperTopo on the Web
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