Woodfords Canyon

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Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 1, 2010 - 01:22pm PT
Warmer longer days are right around
the corner. Looking forward to workout
sessions in Woodfords to get fit for
High Sierra climbs this Spring and Summer.

Flexible times, weekdays and weekends. Anytime
weather is sunny.

Laps on One of These Days (5.10c) is a real workout.

Here's another I hope to play on soon:
Credit: Footloose

It's on sunny winterside but in the shade.
Lot's of off-width work. Rumor says it goes
5.11.

Anyone interested? PM me and let's go!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 1, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
That looks cool.
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
Mar 1, 2010 - 08:49pm PT
wow, my KNEES are sweating!!
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Mar 1, 2010 - 09:04pm PT
My knees are hurting and bruised! But maybe that's because of my first visit to Generator Crack yesterday... after a few swings into the tree on toprope, I stuck a stamp on that postcard and sent it.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 1, 2010 - 09:15pm PT
Any cracks out that way?
leonardo

climber
davis, CA
Mar 1, 2010 - 09:51pm PT
What are the conditions right now?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
Donini- Tons of cracks on single and
half-pitch climbs. (Hey, c'mon out
and take on Positive Vibrations with
me this summer, I'll let you lead the
crux pitches!)

Leonardo- I haven't been out there yet this
season but according to Chim-Chim, a
local, snow's pretty much melted out on winterside
and pockets of summer heat on sunny days.

Woohoo! :)

Generator Crack-
This burly offwidth is easily toproped and seldom led. The crux comes just a few feet off the ground but the climbing remains physical and sustained to the top. Some advanced offwidth climbers use the "leavittation" technique but most climbers just throw in a knee, make a chicken wing, and struggle. Wear long sleeves and pants and you may want to tape your hands and ankles. Climb this route in cooler temperatures--even if it is near freezing the strenuous moves will keep you warm. Don't be discouraged if it takes you multiple visits to this climb to finally get it. Once you do, you?ll be ready to tackle most 5.10 and easier offwidths and squeeze chimneys in Yosemite.

Right on, Nutjob!

This means you're ropegun-
capable for offwidths this summer.
Woohoo!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 1, 2010 - 10:59pm PT
Nice send, Nutjob!
Madbolter

Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
Mar 4, 2010 - 04:28pm PT
Haha, my eyes only see face climbs.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
Still trying to line up
partners for this season's
workouts.

EDIT 5:22p Msiddens- look forward to it,
you're always on my short list!
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
Mar 7, 2010 - 12:39pm PT
Bill, I'm up for workout in the season.
Chim-Chim

climber
Mar 7, 2010 - 06:30pm PT
Wet... on thursday although we managed to tr a few seeping lines. With sunday's sunshine, conditions should improve by Monday... at least for the base routes. By tuesday the adventure should resume it's normal absurdity. So much rock that it hurts. I wish human cloning was legal then I could get something done. Too easy if ya know what I mean.
Credit: Chim-Chim


Chim


Jim D. Nothing but cracks the invite still stands ... it's good to hear your back from Patagonia. Check out the woodfords section on Mountain Project. Just scraching the surface of a gem in the rough. D.K.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 7, 2010 - 06:34pm PT
Footloose,
I'll do PV with you if you stay around to do the one just to the left- forgot it's name. It's a little harder than PV.
Chim Chim, I'm coming. Is Summer too hot?
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Mar 7, 2010 - 06:36pm PT
Is there anything up-canyon, near hope valley outdoors (is it still called that that, I used to work there) and the campground?

Seems like just cross canyon (at the bend in the canyon to the right when you're going downhill) there is some potential and just behind hope valley outdoors on the hillside is a spectacular roof crack.

Joyce, my old boss used to tell me stories about her days chilling with climbers in the valley in the '70's and even better stories about Dan-O climbing that roof crack behind the store.

Brandon-
Chim-Chim

climber
Mar 7, 2010 - 06:45pm PT
The left leaning corner behind hope valley store was climbed by Dan-o don't know the details.... looks kinda tough. There is quite alot of potential at the top of the canyon on both sides but it's a bit early. The conditions should be good by May up there. Meanwhile there's plenty down valley to keep you busy. Chim
Chim-Chim

climber
Mar 7, 2010 - 06:49pm PT
Jim the stuff on the north side of the road is too hot, but the shady south side of the road is perfect. Unlimted free camping!
Credit: Chim-Chim

Just scratching around. Chim
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Mar 7, 2010 - 07:25pm PT
Chim
Ah the pics got me drooling again.
Im ready to hook up with you again for another great year up in the 'fords and finish up with "information catolog"!!!!
Hope you guys are doing great!!!!!
Shawn
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 08:27pm PT
Donini- Nice to hear! What did you have in mind,
CTC (twice) or camping? PM me with the details you
have in mind. Might have to "grab and go" in places on
Sunspot (quite more sustained than PV) but yeah!
Up close and personal on Sunspot would be sweet. If
aided, I'd just have to come back and get it free later.
Right? ;)

Chim- If the weather's good this week, count me in. Nice
to have you back.

Chim wrote-
I wish human cloning was legal then I could get something done.


Ha!
skychild

Trad climber
Birmingham, Alabama
Mar 8, 2010 - 01:54pm PT
I finally got up there to climb. I got a tour from a local who seemed to have alot of information about climbs
Credit: skychild
5.12b that aren't found in the Woodfords pdf file. The rock is a bit coarse in spots but the jam cracks are some of the best i've seen in the Tahoe area. Not to be missed if you like pure crack climbing. Potential is nearlly unlimited but you mighht be dissapointed that the f.a. that you just did has evidence of a prior ascent. Thousands of fine climbs if you like adventure. I sure would have liked to have busy in recent years as the number of new climbs has increased dramatically... but there's still lots to do. Don
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Mar 9, 2010 - 12:20pm PT
Glad you liked the area skychild...
A lot of work has gone into the area by Chim-Chim and many other locals over the years. Potential..unlimited..
Shawn
just a little teaser of summer climbing in the 'fords'
just a little teaser of summer climbing in the 'fords'
Credit: BurnRockBurn
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