Woodfords Canyon


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Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 1, 2010 - 01:22pm PT
Warmer longer days are right around
the corner. Looking forward to workout
sessions in Woodfords to get fit for
High Sierra climbs this Spring and Summer.

Flexible times, weekdays and weekends. Anytime
weather is sunny.

Laps on One of These Days (5.10c) is a real workout.

Here's another I hope to play on soon:

It's on sunny winterside but in the shade.
Lot's of off-width work. Rumor says it goes

Anyone interested? PM me and let's go!

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 1, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
That looks cool.

Trad climber
Mountain View
Mar 1, 2010 - 08:49pm PT
wow, my KNEES are sweating!!

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Mar 1, 2010 - 09:04pm PT
My knees are hurting and bruised! But maybe that's because of my first visit to Generator Crack yesterday... after a few swings into the tree on toprope, I stuck a stamp on that postcard and sent it.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 1, 2010 - 09:15pm PT
Any cracks out that way?

davis, CA
Mar 1, 2010 - 09:51pm PT
What are the conditions right now?

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
Donini- Tons of cracks on single and
half-pitch climbs. (Hey, c'mon out
and take on Positive Vibrations with
me this summer, I'll let you lead the
crux pitches!)

Leonardo- I haven't been out there yet this
season but according to Chim-Chim, a
local, snow's pretty much melted out on winterside
and pockets of summer heat on sunny days.

Woohoo! :)

Generator Crack-
This burly offwidth is easily toproped and seldom led. The crux comes just a few feet off the ground but the climbing remains physical and sustained to the top. Some advanced offwidth climbers use the "leavittation" technique but most climbers just throw in a knee, make a chicken wing, and struggle. Wear long sleeves and pants and you may want to tape your hands and ankles. Climb this route in cooler temperatures--even if it is near freezing the strenuous moves will keep you warm. Don't be discouraged if it takes you multiple visits to this climb to finally get it. Once you do, you?ll be ready to tackle most 5.10 and easier offwidths and squeeze chimneys in Yosemite.

Right on, Nutjob!

This means you're ropegun-
capable for offwidths this summer.

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 1, 2010 - 10:59pm PT
Nice send, Nutjob!

Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
Mar 4, 2010 - 04:28pm PT
Haha, my eyes only see face climbs.

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
Still trying to line up
partners for this season's

EDIT 5:22p Msiddens- look forward to it,
you're always on my short list!

Trad climber
Mountain View
Mar 7, 2010 - 12:39pm PT
Bill, I'm up for workout in the season.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 7, 2010 - 06:34pm PT
I'll do PV with you if you stay around to do the one just to the left- forgot it's name. It's a little harder than PV.
Chim Chim, I'm coming. Is Summer too hot?
Ricardo Cabeza

All Over.
Mar 7, 2010 - 06:36pm PT
Is there anything up-canyon, near hope valley outdoors (is it still called that that, I used to work there) and the campground?

Seems like just cross canyon (at the bend in the canyon to the right when you're going downhill) there is some potential and just behind hope valley outdoors on the hillside is a spectacular roof crack.

Joyce, my old boss used to tell me stories about her days chilling with climbers in the valley in the '70's and even better stories about Dan-O climbing that roof crack behind the store.


South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Mar 7, 2010 - 07:25pm PT
Ah the pics got me drooling again.
Im ready to hook up with you again for another great year up in the 'fords and finish up with "information catolog"!!!!
Hope you guys are doing great!!!!!

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 08:27pm PT
Donini- Nice to hear! What did you have in mind,
CTC (twice) or camping? PM me with the details you
have in mind. Might have to "grab and go" in places on
Sunspot (quite more sustained than PV) but yeah!
Up close and personal on Sunspot would be sweet. If
aided, I'd just have to come back and get it free later.
Right? ;)

Chim- If the weather's good this week, count me in. Nice
to have you back.

Chim wrote-
I wish human cloning was legal then I could get something done.


Trad climber
Birmingham, Alabama
Mar 8, 2010 - 01:54pm PT
I finally got up there to climb. I got a tour from a local who seemed to have alot of information about climbs 5.12b that aren't found in the Woodfords pdf file. The rock is a bit coarse in spots but the jam cracks are some of the best i've seen in the Tahoe area. Not to be missed if you like pure crack climbing. Potential is nearlly unlimited but you mighht be dissapointed that the f.a. that you just did has evidence of a prior ascent. Thousands of fine climbs if you like adventure. I sure would have liked to have busy in recent years as the number of new climbs has increased dramatically... but there's still lots to do. Don

South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Mar 9, 2010 - 12:20pm PT
Glad you liked the area skychild...
A lot of work has gone into the area by Chim-Chim and many other locals over the years. Potential..unlimited..

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2010 - 10:10am PT
Weather's supposed to be nice
this Sun-Mon. Anyone want to go?

Mar 17, 2010 - 07:30pm PT
difficult decision between here and sugarloaf.....but never been to woodfords, and it sounds pretty damn good. so headed there with a couple friends for thursday and friday. already printed off the guidebook from the obscurities page. any y'all locals got any more beta on where to go this time of year? cliffs, routes, access, whatever info would be great. also wondering what the camping situation is. is there any dispersed camping in those parts if the stuff by the river is snowed in? coming from truckee, so its just a bit too long for a day trip....seems like we'll need at least a couple days anyways to get a feel for the place. thanks, matt

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2010 - 12:41am PT
Hey Chim!

I was just coming here, you
beat me to it.

Saw Ryan in the gym, tonite.
Let's get on Big Bad Wolf with the
good weather!

I'm ready to stand in snow even
and get down on OOTD.

EDIT Stella- no problem with
camping. Sunny Winter Side is
clear of snow. Easy camping
everywhere, that's what I'd do.
Have fun.
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