Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 501 - 520 of total 2085 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 30, 2013 - 12:32am PT
this thread wins
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 30, 2013 - 10:24am PT
and the grand prize is.....
















Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 30, 2013 - 11:53am PT
well,, after looking through two boxes of loose photos,, i finally found the topo shot of "Beaulah the Pumper",,and "The flying block" on Suicide falls Left face..


Credit: Ron Anderson


"Sucide falls left" is right of these two routes,, all on the LEFT diamond face of suicide falls area..
Chim-Chim

climber
Jan 30, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
Nice pictures Ron. Heh, have you been up to the area that lies up and to the right of the falls area? The approach is on the opposite side of the v-shaped gully. Looks like there are many boulders and a few small walls. I checked it out with binoculars with the Adventurous One abouy three springs ago. It looks like a long hike, maybe two hours straight up on D.G. ... of course. D.K.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 30, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
Agreed Chim- there is many craglettes up and right- we looked at them many times, but never gave it a go. Im sure theres some bitchin lines up there. One of the less explored areas of the canyon fo sho.



edit: the "Flying Block" was named for a rather LARGE feature, that was forming a small corner, that when TOUCHED , decided to leave the wall. It was a HUGE piece about ten by ten by three feet to four feet thick.. It ended up in pieces near the creek..
Chim-Chim

climber
Jan 30, 2013 - 01:18pm PT
My friend Jaimie found a wall a few years ago, and kept it in the "vault" until about a week ago when we snowshoed our way up to the best new find in the Woodfords area in quite a while. !00 feet or so to the top, and the right side overhangs nine feet in ninety. Four new routes... 5.10 chimney(T.R.), 5.10+, 50 foot, hand and fist crack, clean and classsic, a wondering mid eleven T.R and a beautiful 5.11b crack 90 feet, thin hand crux, to some technical bulge to a severely overhanging featured, leaning dihedral. Placed two anchors. I hope to climb to face above the anchor on the fist crack... maybe one or two bolts needed to link the route to a steep thin hand crack leading the the top. I can't believe it! D.K.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 30, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
Ive said that many times in the canyon Chim... Each and every gully holds treasures on the side walls..
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 30, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
Chim-Chim

climber

Jul 3, 2010 - 10:30am PT
"Never had to wait in line... thank gawd" Perhaps one of the biggest understatments of the year. Heh Ron was that section 20 like route located east of the fortress and west of Epoxy wall? A couple of friends said they did a route that sounded similar. Also did you'all climb that thin crack on a small triangular wall across the creek from one of these days. I found an anchor... a little "dodgy" now. We cleaned the crack thoroughly a couple of years ago and it checks in at 5.10c/d... with the micro wires and tiny cam placements it's an exciting lead.









Chim,,was reveiwing the thread and found this question un answered-- I believe that was one Dano and i did around 93/4 - seems to me we continued on up in some blocky crud past that. Dont remember a name..It was done while on the way to another uhhhh,, "project"...



edit: also, one of the sec 20 adventures strted out on what they call "bandit crag" now..
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 30, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
CORRECTION,,,the flying block and "beaulah" are on the right face- FB strts 100 ' right of the waterfall!




(thank gawd i wrote a guide--good reference that is lol!)
Chim-Chim

climber
Jan 30, 2013 - 03:31pm PT
Ron, I placed a new fixe ring anchor about twenty feet or so above the anchor that exists just over the lip. Two lead climbs finish at either anchor. The left hand route climbs a face to a horizontal crack then goes up through a 2 foot roof and finger crack above. A shallow corner/flake leads to a dicey traverse right to the original anchor or a better variation goes straight up to the higher anchor. The right hand lead goes up a thin splitter. Is that the original route? I removed a five foot wedged flake... didn't change the grade. I climbed a dirty crack above. A short traverse out a triangular roof then a bulge with hands to the top. Does that ring a bell? Great climbs over there. Nice afternoon shade. Never Ever land lies on the tier above with great views of the falls. Dan
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 30, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
Yes that was the original line-- it sounds right..It may have only been done a couple of times that i know of back then. we left a rope on it for a while for reasons i wont explain publicly lmao!;^) AHHHhh Dano,, yur missed...
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jan 30, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
Great comments. I love the old photos. They retain some amount of mystery that hi-res pics can take away from a route.

While the knowledge is being spread, anyone know anything about this bohemeth? It's located in the canyon west of Bandit Crag (northside of the hwy). There was a bolt spotted on the lowest part of the wall as of Jan 2012 (bottom left side of the pic right of the pine tree). The wall is not as consistently steep as it appears, with several blocky, loose bands, but there are a few descent possibilities. Anyone know of any routes on this guy?

This obvious formation sits on the left side of the canyon west of Ban...
This obvious formation sits on the left side of the canyon west of Bandit Crag.
Credit: Laine
Chim-Chim

climber
Jan 30, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
Me no know
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jan 30, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
Here's a few shots from downhill and mid-wall. I was excited about the possibilities from afar but thought it rather lackluster up close, though a few single pitchers looked ok.

Credit: Laine

Credit: Laine
Chim-Chim

climber
Jan 30, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
Looks great.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 30, 2013 - 04:19pm PT
i THOUGHT someone has been exploring that side of the draw from Bandit-- maybe in another thread perhaps, or this one- not sure, but it does ring a bell.
Chim-Chim

climber
Jan 30, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
Jay Sell may have been up there to think of it.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 30, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
I know ive heard things..but --you know,, im gettin oldcrsutier n shyt...But that stuff has seen some action i imagine. Its the easier reached draws in that area really. Colin Hupp and Mike Stroschien did a route somewhere near called "over booked" (5.9) that had 1 bolt below a small roof traverse and corners below- crack finish-- back in 89..
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jan 30, 2013 - 04:51pm PT
Colin Hupp and Mike Stroschien did a route somewhere near called "over booked" (5.9) that had 1 bolt below a small roof traverse and corners below- crack finish-- back in 89

Well the bolt is at the end of a shallow little crack and I remember speculating if the party continued up into runout slab terrority (no other bolts) or if they traversed right into a good looking, right-facing book 1 pitch up (see the shaded corner in the second picture). That book is the most obvious line on the wall but you can't take a direct approach to it. I wouldn't be surprised if this is the route you described, Ron.

Maybe something like this?
Overbooked?
Overbooked?
Credit: Laine
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 30, 2013 - 04:55pm PT
Laine,,I dont believe that is over booked - it was a 100 foot route, starting in a left facing corner then out under a rectangular roof to the right and a short crack finish- the bolt was at the right hand side under the roof. It maybe on the highway facing end of those formations- above mama cat boulder.

Ive been looking at those pics to see if i could recognize it but cant pick it out.
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