kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
|
The rest were done with naturals, because they were so abundant. Exactly,So in other words it would have cost a fortune.
|
|
Jebus H Bomz
climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
|
Ah, man, keep it Kenny. As long as you strangle some other hapless tree with it, I am cool with that. I have some tied webbing I used to get off Jammin' for Jehovah across the canyon too. I went too high and missed the anchors on Smearing for Jesus people apparently used. Another strangled tree :(.
Hehehehe... I love ethics. And convenience anchors!
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
|
After the approach to the Fortress one could truly appreciate some conveniance.
|
|
Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
|
Uhhh Kenny,, if memory serves my drug addled brain, didnt i congratulate you for installing those anchors ontop of NV/UT? I thought that particular route could actually use some. It was a bit of a cluster f*ck otherwise. But many more are easily set up without any altering. I rapped suicide falls routes w/o any permanent anchors too..
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
|
We climbed CLEAN BITD.. not always;)
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
|
Just effin around Ron no offense
|
|
Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
|
Indeed,, that was VERY DIRTY! Yet, it was also pure spurt routes..;^)
But then you have to admit,, Indian head was ALL ABOUT convenience.. Where else could you belay from the truck whilst listening to the tunage.
edit: no offense taken Kenny.. Sometimes the emperor has no clothes lol!
|
|
Chim-Chim
climber
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
|
O.K. I checked my climbing log. Burnrockburn,Sasha Cohen and I climbed two route on April Fool's Wall, April 1,2008. So the route is nearly 5 years old. Woodfords is a big place so I can see the misunderstanding... considering the source I can see the confusion...just sayin'. Dan
|
|
BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
|
Thanks for the backup chim. We also did the 5.8r route to the right of bandit buttress (FA) the same day F.O.L.L.O.F. Fear of love love of fear
Aka my divorce route
Shawn
I didn't know one pic would cause so much talk about climbing. Maybe ill post more photos!!
Enjoying one of my rare days off with my future bride
|
|
velvet!
Trad climber
La Cochitaville
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
|
Is there anywhere decent to bivy if one wanted to spend a week around the area this time of year?? Camp ground open? Mega cold at nights?
Also, how steep/long is the approach more or less? I've gotta a leg that requires some delicacy at the moment.
The boyfriend is coming in from England in two weeks and we've got about a week to kill in between my work stints in the Bay Area. Thought this place might be just the ticket if the weather is nice. Thoughts??
:)
lib
|
|
WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2013 - 04:05pm PT
|
lib,
Approach is steep and loose (sandy/some rocks) and I think the biggest bivy issue up there would likely be water - not aware of any water sources that flow through the hillside. If you are down in the valley below (where the road is), it gets pretty cold down in there and the temperature inversion kicks in for sure. It was something like 24 when I got there at 945am the other day - and then was probably in the 40's or 50's up the 1k vert of approach at the base of The Fortress area
|
|
moosedrool
Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
|
Velvet, the temperature can drop below 0 F at night. If you can drive 20-30 min there are number of motels in Carson Valley.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
|
Some thought it would be convenient to have a bolted easy crack at "bandit crag" too.. Yeah, I'm not even sure you need your hands for that one.
|
|
BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2013 - 09:38pm PT
|
Kenny
I don't like that bolted crack but its already there. I've used it to teach people to lead trad on. If they get freaked about trad placement they can clip up. It's shitty that it was bolted but I'm just gonna get the best out bad situation. Routes fun either way.
Ran into the guy who bolted it and he said he wanted a crag in woodfords that you could "leave your gear and bring more beer".
Again don't agree but........beer is good
Shawn
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
|
Anyone available wed. or thurs. next week for the Fortress?
|
|
rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
|
Hey guys and gals,
Didn't mean to start any controversey over April Fools Wall. Haven't checked this thread in quite awhile. I wasn't claiming any first ascent since there was already a bolt anchor on top when we did it. I just thought the picture and caption about pulling up the bolt kit was of a later ascent. Anyway i'm not claiming any first ascents down there except for Suicide Falls center 5.10x in 1978 with Steve Miller and possibly Sole fusion with Billy Price in 1980.Did other highly visible and desirable features there in the early to mid 1970's but i knew there had already been quite a bit of activity and such obvious features surely would have already been climbed.
|
|
BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2013 - 08:53am PT
|
Thanks for clearing that up Rick. Suicide falls has been calling me for a long time except for the x rating. I kinda like not killing myself for a climb
Shawn
|
|
Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2013 - 08:57am PT
|
We too did a 10 X route up suicide- on the left formation..I believe it has since seen some bots added to it.. That area although still in need of cleaning has some quite nice routes- and multi pitch at that. And the approach is fairly short for the canyon.
|
|
BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2013 - 11:17am PT
|
So Ron how do you feel about making an X route safe by placing a bolt or two?
|
|
Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2013 - 11:33am PT
|
Well, i actually had someone get ahold of me via email about possible retro bolting one of my run out routes on suicide- left..I think it was on a route we called "the flying block" - i was actually ok with that one really, since i knew it to be a terror for a lead. I had done it, yes, but never planned on treading that path again..
So the question is do i want to impose that same risk FOR THAT ROUTE as i put upon myself? Not in this instance. It wasnt that "classic". Like , for instance, "Tapestry" at the loaf- a runout killer route, yet it was a CLASSIC and that was a shame when it got bolted over by other routes. Not the case on suicide, as i was connecting features via blankish slabs with imaginary pro-like a long dong slotted behind a one inch thick small flake..
In fact, all three routes i did at suicide falls were runout,,a 5.7, 5.9 and the 5.10. Seems to be the nature of those two faces, youll find a heady runout most any where.
So my answer can be a yes or no- depends on the route. We NEED those heady leads around ,,so that when a climber progresses to getting more into the head,,he/she can find routes to suit those needs of risk, and mental toughness.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!