Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 521 - 540 of total 2081 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 30, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
Dan, I climbed at the Fortress with Mark B today I have to agree with Milton Mugambe on the quality of the Whisker biscuit. I did take a bit of a beating on Walking Jack though.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 30, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
Ron you have to refresh my memory-it was only 34.5 years ago. So soon i forget things. Anyway ,is what you call Suicide Falls in the Flying Block area the biggest formation in the lower part of the canyon and right of the creek?If so, and Flying Block takes a direct line up the best looking part of the tallest section then i believe it is very similar to Senior Center Slab.We climbed it hammerless and found protection to be very sparse sept. 1978.Could have used some pins or bolts and probably still does.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 30, 2013 - 07:18pm PT
Hey Rick-- yes, the flying block started 100 feet right of the waterfall- its in the pic upthread it could be much the same take a look at the shot of the face i took with the route outlined ..We called it the flying block, because, a HUGE chunk that was forming a corner i planned to climb- left the building so to speak-- it was ten feet high by about that wide and four feet thick at the base. It went when i started to lie back it.




meanwhile the descrip from the guide:

Credit: Ron Anderson
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 30, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson

Rick,,,heres the topo pic of the flying block and beaulah the pumper we did on the right side of the falls.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 30, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
Ron i only remember the route because we got a downright thrill (read scared us silly) out of the business pitch. Your description and picture dont do much to jar the memory loose other than to mention hard mantles which we encountered.I remember dead seems, that didn't take protection worth a shat, more than grooves. Of course it was 34.5 years ago and we never went back to that formation.Somewhere up canyon is a 4-6 pitch arete with cracks from finger to chimney but mainly offwidth to chimney in the 5.9 range that my younger brother Pat and i did in the early 70's.I'll be damned if i can even sight what formation it was on these days.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 30, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
Your route was probably to the right-of both of ours- as that was the mid face- 400 feet from the water fall or so..? I remember s large chunk of rock that way as well. And yeah,, i have a few lost routes either in memory OF or memory WHERE,, take yur pick lol! Thankfully i have younger buddys that have sharper memories..;-)



edit: I TOO got a THRILL out of the business pitch and the pro was really "imaginary" and might just have rattled out at any moment. a long dong dropped behind a teensie flake like a chock was the best of the pitch, and wouldnt have stopped didly. I remember thinking "Royal" would be proud of me right now,, but i hope i dont perish ! Henry got to the belay after that face and commented,, damm good lead Henry! I said - yeah,, and i aint ever doing it again! (So Thanks Scott, for the retro bolts, it really improved it to something someone can shoot for with some sanity.) I would have bolted it if i had HAD bolts with me, but noooo we were into the cleanliness thing. and ya can still not clip any for the FA effect if you want..;^)
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Jan 30, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
Dig the stories Ron!
OK so you gave us the "Flying Block" story,
that must have made a big noise when it hit the base.

Any backstory to "Beaulah the Pumper"?
How many pukes to that formation?
.7 sounds good, right at my geezer limit. LOL

Tad

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 30, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
Tad,, this is a breeze approach- one of the shortest in the canyon. an hour if ya loligag and smell the flowers,, stop for snacks or a puff , or 30 minutes hustling. Right up behind the Woodfords intersection and store- where hgy 4 takes off from 88. theres a defined trail up to the falls stay close to the rock and avoid the brush from hell below it...


Beaulah, was the station made "engine" in markleeville for the USFS- a custom ol dodge power wagon with a five hundred gallon tank and rumble seat.

We named it after her..She was to be retired soon..sadly...All three of us worked in MRKL for the circus at that time.



edit : Yes, when it went it made a huge roar, kncoked down a large quakie on the way the exploded against the creek bottom in a huge ball of rising dust. The nature of the route kept it far from Henry at the belay so it was just a good show, but made the pitch go a different and much harder way.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 30, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
Ron,I think Scott was bullshitting.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 30, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
Oh,, i thought maybe it was him that was email chatting with me about it a while back.. You may be cornfuzed..;^) Or me,,,thats ALWAYS possible...

but someone did indeed retro by accident a route of mine there as was discussed through emails back and forth.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Jan 30, 2013 - 08:15pm PT
Thanks Ron,
kinda thought it would be fire fighter related.

Love this thread,
Rons old photos rock,
but you guys that go up often need to take some pics and post em up
PLEASE!
Tad
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 30, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
Ron, I thought Scott was just messin around but he did say he had done sumphin up there.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 30, 2013 - 08:25pm PT
got me but i thought it might be him actually. maybe he will see this.? I cant remember but i THINK it was him lol!
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 31, 2013 - 01:09am PT
No bullsh#t

I did it.

We cleaned the sh#t out of it too.

It's hard to know whats what
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 31, 2013 - 01:28am PT
I've been looking at that photo and I can't rember.

I did two routes one 5.10 and another 5.11 all cleaned and bolted. Starting from the top of pitch one of Ron's route.

Like I said I'm not sure.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 31, 2013 - 11:03am PT
See there Kenny lol,, im not quite brain dead YET ! ;^)


And a gold star to Scott for that cleaning --i know we didnt clean squat other that what parted ways with the wall upon touching it!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 31, 2013 - 11:42am PT
My friend Jaimie found a wall a few years ago, and kept it in the "vault" until about a week ago when we snowshoed our way up to the best new find in the Woodfords area in quite a while. !00 feet or so to the top, and the right side overhangs nine feet in ninety.
Spill the beans.


Ron, glad u still got it.
Chim-Chim

climber
Jan 31, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
Got a bit of cookin' to do still. Once they're refried a bit they'll get spilt. Got to get the ok from the the discoverer. Milt
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 31, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
Credit: kennyt
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 31, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
Laine.
Scouted that area with the one bolt back in 08-9 and I Havnt found any info on it either. There is I direct line through the roof as you probably saw that would be hard as sh#t
Been trying to get chim chim up there to scope it with me for a few years. Hint hint chim!!!!
There are several possible routes up there but would more that likely need to be sport. Not a lot of crack there
Ron and all...... Great history

Chim let's get out.....things are starting to settle in on the home front now.
Shawn
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