BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 29, 2013 - 12:09pm PT
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Thanks Ron. I never want to F up a route but I also want them safe. As you know woodfords rock can be quite loose and difficult to protect in some places. Hope to try those routes this summer so I don't want change your routes
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 29, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
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i have a pic or two of some of them- ill try and dig them out and post.
Those faces are truly NICE in that they offer adventure climbing - most of the routes i did were shorter pitches belaying at obvious good ledges. The nature if the rock - has its good and not so good spots, but over all is worthy of efforts to climb them- with the waterfall in between its a very cool "nook" of the canyon. There is stuff above that may need some exploration as well.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 29, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
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Fa of Suicide falls left 5.9R, but WONT be R if you bring big stuff! 1979
Chuck Jobst and RA.
We didnt have any BIG stuff back then so disregard the horrid rope work for pro, as the route went up the OW trough. This after an easy approach pitch
We had no big stuff that would work in the slot,, so i scampered across the face 5.9, installed a piece so i would at least penji out of the slot if i slipped out of it Then i scampered back into the crack and up i went...Bring some big cams and yur golden here lol!
the second belay^^^^
The finish OW slot 5.8-ish ending on the broken rock summit of the wall proper.
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T Hocking
Trad climber
Redding, Ca
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Jan 29, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
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Still diggin all the BITD photos Ron!
Wish I would have taken more pics, but dragging around the old Pentax SLR with
a 400mm zoom was a PITA.
Tad
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 29, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
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I really took very few over the many years-- most with a cheapo 135 plastic brownie- with the single flash bulb cup on top ..Dropped that vintage beauty when doing the "other indirect route" on Indian rock..LAst i saw of it - many pieces were raining down onto a ledge..
but other wise it was a 110 cheapo.. More times than not BITD, we were to poor to even bother with a camera.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 29, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
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Were headin up tomorrow a.m. if anyones interested
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Jan 29, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
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Has anyone climbed it since I put the bolts in ?
It's a great route.
Nice work Ron
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 29, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
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Scott,are you working tomorrow?
Has anyone climbed it since I put the bolts in ?
yeah it's still a little run out.
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Jan 29, 2013 - 07:21pm PT
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Hey kenny,
I want to climb but I'm working
looks like a great day have fun
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
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Kenny, have fun. Wish I had more time, I'd like to join you. Hopefully later as the season gets going. I just bumped the Suicide area high up on my Woodfords list, can't wait to check it out.
When you make it north to Carson or whatever, give a call, I'll break away and show you Sunny Delight. You'd like it.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 29, 2013 - 09:09pm PT
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Ron and Burnrock and others: The route at Suicide Falls Miller and i did was up the center of the face to the right of the falls and we called it Senior Center Slab since there was a small senior center at Woodfords in those days that we began our approach from. We simply walked up there and picked what we thought of as the most direct and aesthetic route on the formation. What i remember is a moderate first pitch. An increasingly difficult and steeper 2nd pitch which was in discontinuos seems with very little protection and 5.10 mantle a long ways out from anything reliable.There was a final short and steep pitch to the top of the formation.Unfortunately i lost all of my climbing pictures, notes, etc. to high ground water in the crawlspace of my first home in Alaska in 1986 otherwise i would be posting pics from the past of the greater Tahoe area on this forum. P.S. The rock was pretty chossy in comparison to the Leap or the Loaf being granular if not downright crumbly
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 29, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
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this thread wins
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 30, 2013 - 07:24am PT
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and the grand prize is.....
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 30, 2013 - 08:53am PT
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well,, after looking through two boxes of loose photos,, i finally found the topo shot of "Beaulah the Pumper",,and "The flying block" on Suicide falls Left face..
"Sucide falls left" is right of these two routes,, all on the LEFT diamond face of suicide falls area..
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Chim-Chim
climber
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Jan 30, 2013 - 09:59am PT
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Nice pictures Ron. Heh, have you been up to the area that lies up and to the right of the falls area? The approach is on the opposite side of the v-shaped gully. Looks like there are many boulders and a few small walls. I checked it out with binoculars with the Adventurous One abouy three springs ago. It looks like a long hike, maybe two hours straight up on D.G. ... of course. D.K.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 30, 2013 - 10:05am PT
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Agreed Chim- there is many craglettes up and right- we looked at them many times, but never gave it a go. Im sure theres some bitchin lines up there. One of the less explored areas of the canyon fo sho.
edit: the "Flying Block" was named for a rather LARGE feature, that was forming a small corner, that when TOUCHED , decided to leave the wall. It was a HUGE piece about ten by ten by three feet to four feet thick.. It ended up in pieces near the creek..
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Chim-Chim
climber
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Jan 30, 2013 - 10:18am PT
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My friend Jaimie found a wall a few years ago, and kept it in the "vault" until about a week ago when we snowshoed our way up to the best new find in the Woodfords area in quite a while. !00 feet or so to the top, and the right side overhangs nine feet in ninety. Four new routes... 5.10 chimney(T.R.), 5.10+, 50 foot, hand and fist crack, clean and classsic, a wondering mid eleven T.R and a beautiful 5.11b crack 90 feet, thin hand crux, to some technical bulge to a severely overhanging featured, leaning dihedral. Placed two anchors. I hope to climb to face above the anchor on the fist crack... maybe one or two bolts needed to link the route to a steep thin hand crack leading the the top. I can't believe it! D.K.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 30, 2013 - 10:28am PT
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Ive said that many times in the canyon Chim... Each and every gully holds treasures on the side walls..
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 30, 2013 - 10:35am PT
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Chim-Chim
climber
Jul 3, 2010 - 10:30am PT
"Never had to wait in line... thank gawd" Perhaps one of the biggest understatments of the year. Heh Ron was that section 20 like route located east of the fortress and west of Epoxy wall? A couple of friends said they did a route that sounded similar. Also did you'all climb that thin crack on a small triangular wall across the creek from one of these days. I found an anchor... a little "dodgy" now. We cleaned the crack thoroughly a couple of years ago and it checks in at 5.10c/d... with the micro wires and tiny cam placements it's an exciting lead.
Chim,,was reveiwing the thread and found this question un answered-- I believe that was one Dano and i did around 93/4 - seems to me we continued on up in some blocky crud past that. Dont remember a name..It was done while on the way to another uhhhh,, "project"...
edit: also, one of the sec 20 adventures strted out on what they call "bandit crag" now..
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 30, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
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CORRECTION,,,the flying block and "beaulah" are on the right face- FB strts 100 ' right of the waterfall!
(thank gawd i wrote a guide--good reference that is lol!)
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