kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:00am PT
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Dan, Sound's like yer route got retro bolt by an anti bolter.
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Jebus H Bomz
climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:02am PT
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bolt war! Whoo!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:06am PT
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Just like BITD! no need to chop just mash the hangers flat with a hammer to really get your point across;)
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:37am PT
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April fools wall was done April 1 2008. Only bolts on it should be the anchor. Just saying as well
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:39am PT
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Shawn, I'm sure his memory is not what it used to be.
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Jebus H Bomz
climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:47am PT
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Just like BITD! no need to chop just mash the hangers flat with a hammer to really get your point across;)
I've always liked the sight of mangled bolts and hammered down hangers! While you're at it you should take a loose crap and wipe your ass while slowly rapping down the rock. That'll show 'em! When the brown dookie smear transitions to the blood of your raw ass on the rock, they'll know you are seriously butt hurt!
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:52am PT
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If you had to place a bolt on a route that already had anchors on it WTF. It's fairly obvious the route has been done before. We did it on gear only. Thus no bolt. I'm not going to waste my time pulling it cause I would rather climb.
Just saying again
Shawn
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:57am PT
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A) I dont believe it was Rick or Greg that placed the bolt.
B) The man has done it all..
C) He also did the actual FA of "the perfect lie-back"..
D) He climbs with integrity towards the rock. This i know.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 11:06am PT
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I could never understand how smashed hangers were somehow better than rap installed bolts.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 11:14am PT
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Ron, Didn't he imp-lie that they did the f.a. with only one bolt when they were done? It's funny anyhow just another BITD prodding.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 23, 2013 - 11:17am PT
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I do believe that was mis-interpreted.. I seriously doubt Rick has placed a bolt in well over a decade. In fact, the last time we went to Dino, he led deadmans rap with nuts,, by -passing the bolts..
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 11:31am PT
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Instead of complaining about this sh#t how about some ex. route maint. like that first crux route is cool but the walk off with a foot of snow is lame. seems like these forty foot routes without bolted anchors might actually get done with fixed anchors. most of those routes are sportcracks.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 23, 2013 - 11:42am PT
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I can only go back to the old saying,, if the route ISNT yours,, DONT alter it.. Its how ive climbed all my time.. If the FA party decided a slung glob of granite was good enough, then i followed suit. Respect to ground already tread. When doing NEW routes, one can install bolt anchors for convenience,, but that is what it is,, convenience..Some thought it would be convenient to have a bolted easy crack at "bandit crag" too..
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 11:46am PT
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More like it's 30' and they're never goin back so why waste the time and money.
Were not talking about classics here. I pulled the conveniance slings from the tree on nev/utah and replaced them with painted two bolt anchor is that bad? I'm 99% sure if Dan were around and I asked him he would not have an issue with it.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 23, 2013 - 11:54am PT
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hmmmm,,, well that is one way to think of it..Not really the correct way though.. We climbed CLEAN BITD.. Bolts werent even a consideration. And we got off all those routes without them.. The mantra back then was: ALWAYS bring a long sling..
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
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always loved the way twenty multi colored slings looked wrapped around some tree. O.k. I put the anchors near nev/utah for a new ten foot arete route. anyone doesn't like them they can rap of the hammered slings that were up there.
EDIT: what about the bolted anchors on hillside strangler and stranglehold? did you use those? you can easilly walk off led zepparete and you don't even need the belay bolt at yer waist
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Jebus H Bomz
climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
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Jan 23, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
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Heh. I do believe somebody took my nice bd double length and replaced it with thier hammered out sling on NV/UT! Or else it got hammered out, lol. I was with the wife and she didn't want to futz around with walk offs when I climbed that rig. Probably that's how convenience anchors started. Yes, honey, I'm coming down now!
Those anchors on Hillside are nice for convenience.
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moosedrool
Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
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Jan 23, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
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Saving a tree is a good thing for everybody.
Rap bolts anywhere are good for me - I don't like walking ;)
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 23, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
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LZA was set up as a sport route,, fully expecting it to be "worked"..Much the same as Lightning dream was. Originally Hillside had no anchors.. Let us not mix the two styles here. In all my routes there i only installed two bolted anchors, the LZA, and cracker cliff. Both atop sport lines. The rest were done with naturals, because they were so abundant.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
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Jebus, I have your sling and biner. you can have it back or maybe I'll put it back so ron and rick can rap off it!
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