Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 481 - 500 of total 2060 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 23, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
Velvet, the temperature can drop below 0 F at night. If you can drive 20-30 min there are number of motels in Carson Valley.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
Some thought it would be convenient to have a bolted easy crack at "bandit crag" too..
Yeah, I'm not even sure you need your hands for that one.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 24, 2013 - 12:38am PT
Kenny
I don't like that bolted crack but its already there. I've used it to teach people to lead trad on. If they get freaked about trad placement they can clip up. It's shitty that it was bolted but I'm just gonna get the best out bad situation. Routes fun either way.
Ran into the guy who bolted it and he said he wanted a crag in woodfords that you could "leave your gear and bring more beer".
Again don't agree but........beer is good
Shawn
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 27, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
Anyone available wed. or thurs. next week for the Fortress?
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 27, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
Hey guys and gals,

Didn't mean to start any controversey over April Fools Wall. Haven't checked this thread in quite awhile. I wasn't claiming any first ascent since there was already a bolt anchor on top when we did it. I just thought the picture and caption about pulling up the bolt kit was of a later ascent. Anyway i'm not claiming any first ascents down there except for Suicide Falls center 5.10x in 1978 with Steve Miller and possibly Sole fusion with Billy Price in 1980.Did other highly visible and desirable features there in the early to mid 1970's but i knew there had already been quite a bit of activity and such obvious features surely would have already been climbed.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 29, 2013 - 11:53am PT
Thanks for clearing that up Rick. Suicide falls has been calling me for a long time except for the x rating. I kinda like not killing myself for a climb
Shawn
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 29, 2013 - 11:57am PT
We too did a 10 X route up suicide- on the left formation..I believe it has since seen some bots added to it.. That area although still in need of cleaning has some quite nice routes- and multi pitch at that. And the approach is fairly short for the canyon.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 29, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
So Ron how do you feel about making an X route safe by placing a bolt or two?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 29, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
Well, i actually had someone get ahold of me via email about possible retro bolting one of my run out routes on suicide- left..I think it was on a route we called "the flying block" - i was actually ok with that one really, since i knew it to be a terror for a lead. I had done it, yes, but never planned on treading that path again..

So the question is do i want to impose that same risk FOR THAT ROUTE as i put upon myself? Not in this instance. It wasnt that "classic". Like , for instance, "Tapestry" at the loaf- a runout killer route, yet it was a CLASSIC and that was a shame when it got bolted over by other routes. Not the case on suicide, as i was connecting features via blankish slabs with imaginary pro-like a long dong slotted behind a one inch thick small flake..

In fact, all three routes i did at suicide falls were runout,,a 5.7, 5.9 and the 5.10. Seems to be the nature of those two faces, youll find a heady runout most any where.

So my answer can be a yes or no- depends on the route. We NEED those heady leads around ,,so that when a climber progresses to getting more into the head,,he/she can find routes to suit those needs of risk, and mental toughness.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 29, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
Thanks Ron. I never want to F up a route but I also want them safe. As you know woodfords rock can be quite loose and difficult to protect in some places. Hope to try those routes this summer so I don't want change your routes
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 29, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
i have a pic or two of some of them- ill try and dig them out and post.
Those faces are truly NICE in that they offer adventure climbing - most of the routes i did were shorter pitches belaying at obvious good ledges. The nature if the rock - has its good and not so good spots, but over all is worthy of efforts to climb them- with the waterfall in between its a very cool "nook" of the canyon. There is stuff above that may need some exploration as well.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 29, 2013 - 07:12pm PT
the second actual pitch- the first being low 5 or 4th class <br/>
 <br/>
up th...
the second actual pitch- the first being low 5 or 4th class

up the offwidth.
Credit: Ron Anderson


Fa of Suicide falls left 5.9R, but WONT be R if you bring big stuff! 1979
Chuck Jobst and RA.

We didnt have any BIG stuff back then so disregard the horrid rope work for pro, as the route went up the OW trough. This after an easy approach pitch
We had no big stuff that would work in the slot,, so i scampered across the face 5.9, installed a piece so i would at least penji out of the slot if i slipped out of it Then i scampered back into the crack and up i went...Bring some big cams and yur golden here lol!

2nd belay - route heads towards obvious skyline notch
2nd belay - route heads towards obvious skyline notch
Credit: Ron Anderson

the second belay^^^^


interesting finish in the OW slot pitch three "Suicide falls left" FA
interesting finish in the OW slot pitch three "Suicide falls left" FA
Credit: Ron Anderson


The finish OW slot 5.8-ish ending on the broken rock summit of the wall proper.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Jan 29, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
Still diggin all the BITD photos Ron!
Wish I would have taken more pics, but dragging around the old Pentax SLR with
a 400mm zoom was a PITA.
Tad
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 29, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
I really took very few over the many years-- most with a cheapo 135 plastic brownie- with the single flash bulb cup on top ..Dropped that vintage beauty when doing the "other indirect route" on Indian rock..LAst i saw of it - many pieces were raining down onto a ledge..

but other wise it was a 110 cheapo.. More times than not BITD, we were to poor to even bother with a camera.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 29, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
Were headin up tomorrow a.m. if anyones interested
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 29, 2013 - 09:58pm PT


Has anyone climbed it since I put the bolts in ?

It's a great route.

Nice work Ron
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 29, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
Scott,are you working tomorrow?


Has anyone climbed it since I put the bolts in ?
yeah it's still a little run out.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 29, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
Hey kenny,

I want to climb but I'm working

looks like a great day have fun
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
Kenny, have fun. Wish I had more time, I'd like to join you. Hopefully later as the season gets going. I just bumped the Suicide area high up on my Woodfords list, can't wait to check it out.

When you make it north to Carson or whatever, give a call, I'll break away and show you Sunny Delight. You'd like it.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 30, 2013 - 12:09am PT
Ron and Burnrock and others: The route at Suicide Falls Miller and i did was up the center of the face to the right of the falls and we called it Senior Center Slab since there was a small senior center at Woodfords in those days that we began our approach from. We simply walked up there and picked what we thought of as the most direct and aesthetic route on the formation. What i remember is a moderate first pitch. An increasingly difficult and steeper 2nd pitch which was in discontinuos seems with very little protection and 5.10 mantle a long ways out from anything reliable.There was a final short and steep pitch to the top of the formation.Unfortunately i lost all of my climbing pictures, notes, etc. to high ground water in the crawlspace of my first home in Alaska in 1986 otherwise i would be posting pics from the past of the greater Tahoe area on this forum. P.S. The rock was pretty chossy in comparison to the Leap or the Loaf being granular if not downright crumbly
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