Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 341 - 360 of total 2003 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2012 - 06:11pm PT
Yes, Woodfords has been a heavenly place of late. Inspiration for next time...
Woodfords
Woodfords
Credit: Footloose

Plenty of 4th and easy 5th, too, for you wilderness explorer types as well. Lots of easy 5th FAs, too, for the kids. 'Tis the season on the sunny south-facing side. At least through tomorrow!

More later, woo-hoo!

Two really fun climbs here above Sun Wall
Two really fun climbs here above Sun Wall
Credit: Footloose
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
Hey all,

I'm looking for a few bolts and hangers to establish a little something out my way: Jobs Peak foothills area.

Sunny Delight, 100 feet, vertical with a roof pull, liebacks, plates, ...
Sunny Delight, 100 feet, vertical with a roof pull, liebacks, plates, nubbins and cracks - reminiscent of OoTD except southwest facing like Sun Wall at Woodfords
Credit: Footloose

Kenny, any of these left you might want to part with?

Credit: kennyt

Thanks.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Nov 15, 2012 - 04:21pm PT
Foot,, congrats on making the trudge up to the jobst canyon stuff! Did a wide crack up there once..We never did go back for any of the other.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 15, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
Bill, I'm sure I could spare a few.


Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
Good to hear, Kenny!

Thanks you guys, let's just have back that outrageous sunny warm weather once again now!

So we can all get back to cragging on those awesome south facing sides!
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 16, 2012 - 09:59am PT
Bill the climb on the right that you posted November 5 is called Way the Hell Up There, 5.11c The climb on the Left is Pineal Pillar 5.10a O.W. I placed an anchor on top, it needs chains as to could see. The anchor also serves as a rappel for a few climbs that lead out the the notch behind the formation in your photo. Possibly the best 5.10c crack in Woodfords follows the right hand crack leaving the notch it.s called Serenity Now way better rock than OOTD. Not as steep though... obviouslly. Dan
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Nov 16, 2012 - 10:17am PT
the fortress has some GREAT climbing in it.. One of the more over looked formations on that side. As is the "orange wall".. I WISH i was thirty again- there are so many stellar routes waiting to be- thankfully there are you young guns taking up the slack. the orange wall just may have the best routes in the canyon- who knows.. Crawdaddy was quite vague with his route description on that formation when i prodded him and i knew very well why.;-)
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 26, 2012 - 07:39am PT
Went up to the Fortress on Friday with Sashthe Czar and Ash... ran into Sigi Vogel a first ascentionist during the original exploration of the canyon. Heading up ao climb Yellow Fin an excellent four pitch 5.10c, the third pitch rivals OOTD as the best 5.10 pitch in the area. If you want to climb the longer routes time is running out cuz one good storm can shut down climbing up high ... unless your English or something. D.K.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2012 - 08:39am PT
Chim, good to hear.

Hey, what bolt standard, or standards, are you using in Woodfords nowadays?



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kqwxN8u_9w&feature=player_embedded

BTW,

It's interesting that 3/8 sleeve anchors only have a 5/16 threaded core. That leans me as a noob bolter to think of preferring the wedge anchor whose size matches the threaded core. Example: 3/8 equals 3/8. But then I'm only a noob thinking about this.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 26, 2012 - 09:11am PT
foot,, the BEST thing you can do is NOT witch vids like the above lol! Tourque wrenches?? canned air?? hmmmm......


And DONT worry about the bolt thickness- a 3/8 five piece is strong enough to hang elephants off of..
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 26, 2012 - 09:19am PT
Bill, call white cap in reno and order up powers (formerly rawl) 5 piece 3/8 x 2 1/2 stainless steel and your good to go. those thinks are good to like 7000lb in shear in good granite
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 26, 2012 - 09:34am PT
I once did a hanging belay on a 1 l/4 " leeper split shaft contraction bolt that dinner plated half way down the shaft. Held two of us.. A bolt is a quite BOMBER thing - normally.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2012 - 10:13am PT
I checked into White Cap, guy's going to call me back with price.

bolts vs studs

So is there a push in Woodfords to go with removeable bolts rather than nonremoveable studs?

I mean, if I set a few anchors with SS wedge studs now that it's the 21st century, not the 20th, anyone like Kenny or Dan or Ron (or that guy in the video using a torque wrench) going to bitch slap me for my choice? :)



Or maybe I'm just overthinking it and should just go get it done.

Yeah, just go get it done. LOL!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 26, 2012 - 10:21am PT
sup tu yu.. I always went with the five piece rawls- never an issue. The plastic sleeves on them act as a gasket as well-- a tad more rust resistant.

Used them from 2.5 to 5" depending upon the rock. Any and ALL bolts can be removed.


a lot of the bolts ive placed locally have been in there for 20 years now.

All solid still.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 26, 2012 - 11:27am PT
Bitch slap them back.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 26, 2012 - 11:49am PT
bitch slaps are so eighties mannnn... Now its all about the dueling .;-)

If ya screw the pooch Foot,, youll get the whacked.. stacked,,, and LIME- afied. Yur gear will be distributed amongst the boulderz and yur vehicle set afire. (jk)...

By the way, Bandit crag was the start of a multi pitcher and retroed bolts exist on that first pitch.


in other news,, seeing Sigis name above,, i have news of the perfect Lieback. It seems it was done in the ealry 70s,,73/74 by Rick Sumner and crew. Was brushy back then. So Sigi and Bill may not have done the actual FA as they thought in the later 70s or 80s. And Royal Robbins was doing classes there in the early 70s now and then- he may have done the fa of the west wall route on the Apron..
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 26, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
Bill, Make sure you leave fixed draws on everything you bolt if you want to maximize the supertopo expert bitch slappin.

I walked all the way up to bandit crag and no fixed draws wtf who's in charge up there? below are a few other items which may come in handy on your bolting adventure

supervising supertopians
supervising supertopians
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
some of these in neon green or orange should do
some of these in neon green or orange should do
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 26, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
snicker^^^^^^...

Yes ALWAYS carry your can o air along,, fits easily and well in a hip pocket -!!!!!!!!!!!!!!;-) ( sheeeesh ive seen everything now!)
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 26, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
Credit: kennyt
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 26, 2012 - 01:54pm PT
Puuufekt^^^^^^should fit between the harness loops and such! quick draw blow jobs!!!

Wonder how long it will take that guy in the vid to realize he has free shyt in his lungs??


Know whats funny to do to partners that havent placed a bolt before??

Give em a STRAW to blow the hole out with...Woiks eeeevery time!;-D

Messages 341 - 360 of total 2003 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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