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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Laine
Nice looking routes. Glad someone put those up. Eyed those back in 07-08 but didn't make it happen.
Chim
Do you want to hit those and do a hand drawing tomorrow?
Shawn
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Laine or Kenny
Is the approach to Crystal Wall up Bandit buttress east gulley?
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Same as bandit
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Taken from the large dirt parking lot. Hope this help
I PM'd ya Dan with my contact info. Just let me know what ya need.
Cheers,
L
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Thanks Laine and Kenny
Heading up in the AM if anyone wants to join
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Yeah, busy day up there. were getting a dusting today should melt off quickly
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Dan, we did Whisker biscuit,couple tr laps on walking jack an easier route to the right up the corner and I be jammin. we were gonna come over and check guy's out but deceided to head out early, seems like you were right behind us.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Ron, After that approach your core temp is pretty high for at least 6 hrs. Not to mention were really abunch of Badasses
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Anyone climbig tomorrow??
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Dan, 5 day forecast looks good.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Was an Awsome day up there. Great to see everyone again. Chims guide is looking Awsome
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Hey Shawn, I think were gonna make it up there tomorrow.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Zero snow.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Are you heading up?
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JustThatEasy
climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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WML,
There's several ways to get to "Serenity Now" (.10d), but I'll give you the directions I'm most familiar with.
First, you have to make your way to the "Way the Hell Up There" (.11c) area. The climb starts to the right, and slightly lower down from the base of that route.
To get there traverse right from the bottom of High Caliber Corridor to a short 3rd/ easy 4th class section. This scramble is marked by a singular pine tree. After the initial scramble keep traversing east and slightly up, angling towards "Way the Hell Up There". The first pitch (of two) climbs on the right side of that formation.
Pitch one is characterized by broken and discontinuous climbing; kinda alpine-like. The end of the pitch goes up a couple short corners and deposits you on a ledge on the climber's left. It's only an access pitch leading you to the goods, which are on the second pitch.
Pitch two leaves the ledge on it's right side and climbs a finger crack to a crack switch about 20' up. Follow the crack as it arcs leftwards to a two bolt anchor. Awesome.
To descend rap Serenity Now's anchor to the ledge. Scramble 40' south to the top of "Way the Hell Up There" which is behind you when you're at the base of Serenity Now's second pitch. Rap off two bolts to the ground.
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JustThatEasy
climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Feb 11, 2013 - 11:16am PT
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Hey Chim! Sounds like great temps the next few days. You plan on doing more cookin' tomorrow?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Feb 11, 2013 - 11:52am PT
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Dan, mark and I are heading up today.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 11, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
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Two of us got out to woodfords yesterday. Slightly over cast, cold and windy as hell on the wall. We tried a line I’d scoped earlier, but since neither of us could feel our fingers, committing to a akward layback in a steep corner on tiny gear as the wind chilled us to the bone wasn’t in the cards. Maybe next time.
As soon as we bailed the wind died down. Feeling a new sense of inspiration (and warmth) we decided to give a nearby oldskool crack a go. But as luck would have it as soon as Jason racked up, the wind kicked up and the light began to fall behind the wall. Regardless of this piercing wind and fading light he got after it.
Joe Herbst would love this route! Wide hands to offwidth to chimney, gardening as you go. A slick, slabby corner with a few finger jams (once excavated) guards a nice ledge just below broken slabs at exactly 30m. Full value the whole way (though it doesn't seem it from the ground). I followed and literally cleaning as I climb. We setup an anchor and got outta Dodge. I kid you not, as soon as I touched back down to terra firma, the wind stopped yet again. Just another day a fords!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Feb 11, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
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Nice photos Laine, we were up today beutiful blue skys but cold.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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Might I suggest giving this a go...
It's steeper than it looks in the photo. Bring your OW skills. :)
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