Yes, Woodfords has been a heavenly place of late. Inspiration for next time...
Woodfords
Credit: Footloose
Plenty of 4th and easy 5th, too, for you wilderness explorer types as well. Lots of easy 5th FAs, too, for the kids. 'Tis the season on the sunny south-facing side. At least through tomorrow!
I'm looking for a few bolts and hangers to establish a little something out my way: Jobs Peak foothills area.
Sunny Delight, 100 feet, vertical with a roof pull, liebacks, plates, nubbins and cracks - reminiscent of OoTD except southwest facing like Sun Wall at Woodfords
Credit: Footloose
Kenny, any of these left you might want to part with?
Bill the climb on the right that you posted November 5 is called Way the Hell Up There, 5.11c The climb on the Left is Pineal Pillar 5.10a O.W. I placed an anchor on top, it needs chains as to could see. The anchor also serves as a rappel for a few climbs that lead out the the notch behind the formation in your photo. Possibly the best 5.10c crack in Woodfords follows the right hand crack leaving the notch it.s called Serenity Now way better rock than OOTD. Not as steep though... obviouslly. Dan
the fortress has some GREAT climbing in it.. One of the more over looked formations on that side. As is the "orange wall".. I WISH i was thirty again- there are so many stellar routes waiting to be- thankfully there are you young guns taking up the slack. the orange wall just may have the best routes in the canyon- who knows.. Crawdaddy was quite vague with his route description on that formation when i prodded him and i knew very well why.;-)
Went up to the Fortress on Friday with Sashthe Czar and Ash... ran into Sigi Vogel a first ascentionist during the original exploration of the canyon. Heading up ao climb Yellow Fin an excellent four pitch 5.10c, the third pitch rivals OOTD as the best 5.10 pitch in the area. If you want to climb the longer routes time is running out cuz one good storm can shut down climbing up high ... unless your English or something. D.K.
It's interesting that 3/8 sleeve anchors only have a 5/16 threaded core. That leans me as a noob bolter to think of preferring the wedge anchor whose size matches the threaded core. Example: 3/8 equals 3/8. But then I'm only a noob thinking about this.
Bill, call white cap in reno and order up powers (formerly rawl) 5 piece 3/8 x 2 1/2 stainless steel and your good to go. those thinks are good to like 7000lb in shear in good granite
I once did a hanging belay on a 1 l/4 " leeper split shaft contraction bolt that dinner plated half way down the shaft. Held two of us.. A bolt is a quite BOMBER thing - normally.
I checked into White Cap, guy's going to call me back with price.
bolts vs studs
So is there a push in Woodfords to go with removeable bolts rather than nonremoveable studs?
I mean, if I set a few anchors with SS wedge studs now that it's the 21st century, not the 20th, anyone like Kenny or Dan or Ron (or that guy in the video using a torque wrench) going to bitch slap me for my choice? :)
Or maybe I'm just overthinking it and should just go get it done.
bitch slaps are so eighties mannnn... Now its all about the dueling .;-)
If ya screw the pooch Foot,, youll get the whacked.. stacked,,, and LIME- afied. Yur gear will be distributed amongst the boulderz and yur vehicle set afire. (jk)...
By the way, Bandit crag was the start of a multi pitcher and retroed bolts exist on that first pitch.
in other news,, seeing Sigis name above,, i have news of the perfect Lieback. It seems it was done in the ealry 70s,,73/74 by Rick Sumner and crew. Was brushy back then. So Sigi and Bill may not have done the actual FA as they thought in the later 70s or 80s. And Royal Robbins was doing classes there in the early 70s now and then- he may have done the fa of the west wall route on the Apron..
Bill, Make sure you leave fixed draws on everything you bolt if you want to maximize the supertopo expert bitch slappin.
I walked all the way up to bandit crag and no fixed draws wtf who's in charge up there? below are a few other items which may come in handy on your bolting adventure
Let us know!