Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 321 - 340 of total 1385 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Jan 29, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
Still diggin all the BITD photos Ron!
Wish I would have taken more pics, but dragging around the old Pentax SLR with
a 400mm zoom was a PITA.
Tad
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 29, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
Were headin up tomorrow a.m. if anyones interested
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 29, 2013 - 09:58pm PT


Has anyone climbed it since I put the bolts in ?

It's a great route.

Nice work Ron
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 29, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
Scott,are you working tomorrow?


Has anyone climbed it since I put the bolts in ?
yeah it's still a little run out.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 29, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
Hey kenny,

I want to climb but I'm working

looks like a great day have fun
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
Kenny, have fun. Wish I had more time, I'd like to join you. Hopefully later as the season gets going. I just bumped the Suicide area high up on my Woodfords list, can't wait to check it out.

When you make it north to Carson or whatever, give a call, I'll break away and show you Sunny Delight. You'd like it.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 30, 2013 - 12:09am PT
Ron and Burnrock and others: The route at Suicide Falls Miller and i did was up the center of the face to the right of the falls and we called it Senior Center Slab since there was a small senior center at Woodfords in those days that we began our approach from. We simply walked up there and picked what we thought of as the most direct and aesthetic route on the formation. What i remember is a moderate first pitch. An increasingly difficult and steeper 2nd pitch which was in discontinuos seems with very little protection and 5.10 mantle a long ways out from anything reliable.There was a final short and steep pitch to the top of the formation.Unfortunately i lost all of my climbing pictures, notes, etc. to high ground water in the crawlspace of my first home in Alaska in 1986 otherwise i would be posting pics from the past of the greater Tahoe area on this forum. P.S. The rock was pretty chossy in comparison to the Leap or the Loaf being granular if not downright crumbly
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 30, 2013 - 12:32am PT
this thread wins
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 30, 2013 - 10:24am PT
and the grand prize is.....
















Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jan 30, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
Great comments. I love the old photos. They retain some amount of mystery that hi-res pics can take away from a route.

While the knowledge is being spread, anyone know anything about this bohemeth? It's located in the canyon west of Bandit Crag (northside of the hwy). There was a bolt spotted on the lowest part of the wall as of Jan 2012 (bottom left side of the pic right of the pine tree). The wall is not as consistently steep as it appears, with several blocky, loose bands, but there are a few descent possibilities. Anyone know of any routes on this guy?

This obvious formation sits on the left side of the canyon west of Ban...
This obvious formation sits on the left side of the canyon west of Bandit Crag.
Credit: Laine
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jan 30, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
Here's a few shots from downhill and mid-wall. I was excited about the possibilities from afar but thought it rather lackluster up close, though a few single pitchers looked ok.

Credit: Laine

Credit: Laine
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jan 30, 2013 - 04:51pm PT
Colin Hupp and Mike Stroschien did a route somewhere near called "over booked" (5.9) that had 1 bolt below a small roof traverse and corners below- crack finish-- back in 89

Well the bolt is at the end of a shallow little crack and I remember speculating if the party continued up into runout slab terrority (no other bolts) or if they traversed right into a good looking, right-facing book 1 pitch up (see the shaded corner in the second picture). That book is the most obvious line on the wall but you can't take a direct approach to it. I wouldn't be surprised if this is the route you described, Ron.

Maybe something like this?
Overbooked?
Overbooked?
Credit: Laine
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 30, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
Dan, I climbed at the Fortress with Mark B today I have to agree with Milton Mugambe on the quality of the Whisker biscuit. I did take a bit of a beating on Walking Jack though.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 30, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
Ron you have to refresh my memory-it was only 34.5 years ago. So soon i forget things. Anyway ,is what you call Suicide Falls in the Flying Block area the biggest formation in the lower part of the canyon and right of the creek?If so, and Flying Block takes a direct line up the best looking part of the tallest section then i believe it is very similar to Senior Center Slab.We climbed it hammerless and found protection to be very sparse sept. 1978.Could have used some pins or bolts and probably still does.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 30, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
Ron i only remember the route because we got a downright thrill (read scared us silly) out of the business pitch. Your description and picture dont do much to jar the memory loose other than to mention hard mantles which we encountered.I remember dead seems, that didn't take protection worth a shat, more than grooves. Of course it was 34.5 years ago and we never went back to that formation.Somewhere up canyon is a 4-6 pitch arete with cracks from finger to chimney but mainly offwidth to chimney in the 5.9 range that my younger brother Pat and i did in the early 70's.I'll be damned if i can even sight what formation it was on these days.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Jan 30, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
Dig the stories Ron!
OK so you gave us the "Flying Block" story,
that must have made a big noise when it hit the base.

Any backstory to "Beaulah the Pumper"?
How many pukes to that formation?
.7 sounds good, right at my geezer limit. LOL

Tad

kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 30, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
Ron,I think Scott was bullshitting.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Jan 30, 2013 - 08:15pm PT
Thanks Ron,
kinda thought it would be fire fighter related.

Love this thread,
Rons old photos rock,
but you guys that go up often need to take some pics and post em up
PLEASE!
Tad
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 30, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
Ron, I thought Scott was just messin around but he did say he had done sumphin up there.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 31, 2013 - 01:09am PT
No bullsh#t

I did it.

We cleaned the sh#t out of it too.

It's hard to know whats what
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