Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 321 - 340 of total 2060 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
CHOSS BOSS

Trad climber
Crumbly Corners
Aug 29, 2012 - 08:00pm PT
Where in the hell is Woodferds?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Aug 29, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
Same place it's always been.

Where the hell are you?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
A one-of-a-kind finish...

Credit: Footloose

Oops, wrong thread. (Blame it on the strawberry daiq.)

Don't be jealous, Woodfords, I'll be back, we're still bff!
CHOSS BOSS

Trad climber
Crumbly Corners
Sep 3, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
CRICKETS...............................
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
If any locals want to drop in, I'll be at Woodfords tomorrow for a few sets on One of These Days. Just let me know.

My shoulders and back need strength maintenance if not building, ha! for an upcoming high sierra project. Took it for granted on a recent Mithral Dihedral ctc that ended up spanking them. And me. Humbly. (Of course, one could also argue it was my lousy core and footwork given that glorious crack, I wouldn't argue the point.)

At my age, there's no more taking this sport for granted. Serious stuff!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
Yes, Woodfords has been a heavenly place of late. Inspiration for next time...
Woodfords
Woodfords
Credit: Footloose

Plenty of 4th and easy 5th, too, for you wilderness explorer types as well. Lots of easy 5th FAs, too, for the kids. 'Tis the season on the sunny south-facing side. At least through tomorrow!

More later, woo-hoo!

Two really fun climbs here above Sun Wall
Two really fun climbs here above Sun Wall
Credit: Footloose
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2012 - 05:38pm PT
Hey all,

I'm looking for a few bolts and hangers to establish a little something out my way: Jobs Peak foothills area.

Sunny Delight, 100 feet, vertical with a roof pull, liebacks, plates, ...
Sunny Delight, 100 feet, vertical with a roof pull, liebacks, plates, nubbins and cracks - reminiscent of OoTD except southwest facing like Sun Wall at Woodfords
Credit: Footloose

Kenny, any of these left you might want to part with?

Credit: kennyt

Thanks.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Nov 15, 2012 - 07:21pm PT
Foot,, congrats on making the trudge up to the jobst canyon stuff! Did a wide crack up there once..We never did go back for any of the other.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 15, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
Bill, I'm sure I could spare a few.


Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
Good to hear, Kenny!

Thanks you guys, let's just have back that outrageous sunny warm weather once again now!

So we can all get back to cragging on those awesome south facing sides!
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 16, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
Bill the climb on the right that you posted November 5 is called Way the Hell Up There, 5.11c The climb on the Left is Pineal Pillar 5.10a O.W. I placed an anchor on top, it needs chains as to could see. The anchor also serves as a rappel for a few climbs that lead out the the notch behind the formation in your photo. Possibly the best 5.10c crack in Woodfords follows the right hand crack leaving the notch it.s called Serenity Now way better rock than OOTD. Not as steep though... obviouslly. Dan
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Nov 16, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
the fortress has some GREAT climbing in it.. One of the more over looked formations on that side. As is the "orange wall".. I WISH i was thirty again- there are so many stellar routes waiting to be- thankfully there are you young guns taking up the slack. the orange wall just may have the best routes in the canyon- who knows.. Crawdaddy was quite vague with his route description on that formation when i prodded him and i knew very well why.;-)
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 26, 2012 - 10:39am PT
Went up to the Fortress on Friday with Sashthe Czar and Ash... ran into Sigi Vogel a first ascentionist during the original exploration of the canyon. Heading up ao climb Yellow Fin an excellent four pitch 5.10c, the third pitch rivals OOTD as the best 5.10 pitch in the area. If you want to climb the longer routes time is running out cuz one good storm can shut down climbing up high ... unless your English or something. D.K.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2012 - 11:39am PT
Chim, good to hear.

Hey, what bolt standard, or standards, are you using in Woodfords nowadays?



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kqwxN8u_9w&feature=player_embedded

BTW,

It's interesting that 3/8 sleeve anchors only have a 5/16 threaded core. That leans me as a noob bolter to think of preferring the wedge anchor whose size matches the threaded core. Example: 3/8 equals 3/8. But then I'm only a noob thinking about this.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 26, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
foot,, the BEST thing you can do is NOT witch vids like the above lol! Tourque wrenches?? canned air?? hmmmm......


And DONT worry about the bolt thickness- a 3/8 five piece is strong enough to hang elephants off of..
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 26, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
Bill, call white cap in reno and order up powers (formerly rawl) 5 piece 3/8 x 2 1/2 stainless steel and your good to go. those thinks are good to like 7000lb in shear in good granite
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 26, 2012 - 12:34pm PT
I once did a hanging belay on a 1 l/4 " leeper split shaft contraction bolt that dinner plated half way down the shaft. Held two of us.. A bolt is a quite BOMBER thing - normally.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
I checked into White Cap, guy's going to call me back with price.

bolts vs studs

So is there a push in Woodfords to go with removeable bolts rather than nonremoveable studs?

I mean, if I set a few anchors with SS wedge studs now that it's the 21st century, not the 20th, anyone like Kenny or Dan or Ron (or that guy in the video using a torque wrench) going to bitch slap me for my choice? :)



Or maybe I'm just overthinking it and should just go get it done.

Yeah, just go get it done. LOL!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 26, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
sup tu yu.. I always went with the five piece rawls- never an issue. The plastic sleeves on them act as a gasket as well-- a tad more rust resistant.

Used them from 2.5 to 5" depending upon the rock. Any and ALL bolts can be removed.


a lot of the bolts ive placed locally have been in there for 20 years now.

All solid still.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Nov 26, 2012 - 02:27pm PT
Bitch slap them back.
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