Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 361 - 380 of total 1384 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2013 - 10:39pm PT
wml, you should seriously think about giving CV Sentinel a try down this way, too. I predict you would not be disappointed! :)

Have fun. Tomorrow is supposed to be another glorious day here. Wish I could go two days in a row, dang!
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Feb 3, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
I saw a couple of cars parked by Fortress today (Footloose?). Haven't seen Kenny's truck, though.

Monkeys are sending!

I am in the lodge again waiting for my wife and drinking bad beer ;)
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 3, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
How was it up there today? seemed like it could have been cold
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 3, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
Hope it's nice tomorrow.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 4, 2013 - 11:34am PT
Ron, First crux is immed. around the corner from sunwall, right? I thought left of red pillar. I'm headin up today. Weston, if you haven't done whisker biscuit you should. and the easy routes in the cat scratch area are a lot of fun as well.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
Red Pillar anchors are way messed up. Had the same experience when we topped out. Spicy for sure.

Chim Chim. Are you heading up tomorrow? I need to get the Hell out of work. Shoulder is still f'd up but its workable.....
Shawn


WML

The area is actually very well documented by Chim Chim. Just not available at your local book store.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:04pm PT
The rope drag sucked under the arch. Rope Caught under a cam there and was stuck, had to downclimb to unstick it.
OULD is classic. Top out and there are several more climbs on the next tier that are spectacular. Cant remember the names but there is a 10a corner crack that chim lead barefoot with me several years ago.
Its all good up there.

Shawn
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
OULD I believe is 10c. Crux is a balanced move that throws you to the right when you need to stay balanced left to place gear. So much up there and so little time. When you heading up?
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
Well keep me in mind. If Im off Im willing to hike up and give you a last tour. Im out as far as leading right now, seconding only now, but I can show you and your group some stuff.
Shawn
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
What's up with the cliff directly above Bandit crag? sounds like someones been doin some stuff there. we were heading up today but my partner got hung up.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
Kenny

Heard about some stuff going on up there but have no details. Dan and I put up a Trad route there in 2008 with walk off then went and put up April Fools wall in the next gully. I remember there was a lot of potential for some sport routes up from Bandit. Ill have to check it out and take some pics

Shawn

Ron
That would be a hell of a lot of wandering to get seven pitches. You guys had brass ones
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
I'm gonna take a walk up there today and take some pics.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
Thanks Kenny
Look forward to your "trip report"
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
Adventure climbing at its finest.....
If I would have started climbing in my Early 20's I probably would be dead by now. Luckily I started at 30 and understood consequences of injury. ie mortgage not getting paid. Damn I miss my 20's......
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
I can only imagine the smell from all the trundled boulders there when you did that "route"
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
Kenny, if ya come across a few buckets with some gear in them on your walkabout (though I doubt you'd find em), those be mine.

Take good notes, there are a lot of "gems" up there
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
Pure gold Ron!

I enjoy your stories more than K2 reports. They make me feel young and careless again :)))

kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
Laine, is this one yers? I saw two bolts and anchors up a vertical dike
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 4, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
that is definately some quality granite up there, I would love to climb that thing but it looks like somebodys project. anyone got info?
Credit: kennyt
1st bolt
1st bolt
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 4, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
Kenny - yea that's what we call Tumbledown House (2p 11a-ish). Named for the amount of death blocks we had to trundle in order to make the route climbable as well as an AZ band (friends of one of the FAists). The route follows that dike all the way to the top and is very uncharacteristic of the fords (smooth, in-cut crimps).

To the left of that route is Roof Bravado and 2 others cracks that all converge at an exciting roof. Yard over the roof to a 2 bolt anchor (hand drilled to keep it oldskool), run some laps or continue up and right on the 2nd pitch (5.8) to the vertical dike of Tumblehouse and follow it to the top. Give em a go and gimme some feedback, I'd love to hear what you think - unless you hate them ;)

We've been calling this place Crystal Wall because there is a bunch a quartz laying around (moreso than in other gullies nearby); however if an name has already been chosen I will be happy to edit the info I've posted. If you continue east past that gully, the next wall you'll find is Deadwood Wall. This is a single-pitch wall with several 5.8's and 5.9's that are a classic and any I've done in the fords. Chimneys, corners, hand cracks, and OWs all within feet of each other.
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