Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 301 - 320 of total 1384 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 02:46pm PT
More like it's 30' and they're never goin back so why waste the time and money.

Were not talking about classics here. I pulled the conveniance slings from the tree on nev/utah and replaced them with painted two bolt anchor is that bad? I'm 99% sure if Dan were around and I asked him he would not have an issue with it.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
always loved the way twenty multi colored slings looked wrapped around some tree. O.k. I put the anchors near nev/utah for a new ten foot arete route. anyone doesn't like them they can rap of the hammered slings that were up there.

EDIT: what about the bolted anchors on hillside strangler and stranglehold? did you use those? you can easilly walk off led zepparete and you don't even need the belay bolt at yer waist
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:10pm PT
Heh. I do believe somebody took my nice bd double length and replaced it with thier hammered out sling on NV/UT! Or else it got hammered out, lol. I was with the wife and she didn't want to futz around with walk offs when I climbed that rig. Probably that's how convenience anchors started. Yes, honey, I'm coming down now!

Those anchors on Hillside are nice for convenience.
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
Saving a tree is a good thing for everybody.

Rap bolts anywhere are good for me - I don't like walking ;)
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
Jebus, I have your sling and biner. you can have it back or maybe I'll put it back so ron and rick can rap off it!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
The rest were done with naturals, because they were so abundant.
Exactly,So in other words it would have cost a fortune.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
Ah, man, keep it Kenny. As long as you strangle some other hapless tree with it, I am cool with that. I have some tied webbing I used to get off Jammin' for Jehovah across the canyon too. I went too high and missed the anchors on Smearing for Jesus people apparently used. Another strangled tree :(.

Hehehehe... I love ethics. And convenience anchors!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
After the approach to the Fortress one could truly appreciate some conveniance.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
We climbed CLEAN BITD..
not always;)
Stolen from Ron Anderson
Stolen from Ron Anderson
Credit: kennyt

kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
Just effin around Ron no offense
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 23, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
Thanks for the backup chim. We also did the 5.8r route to the right of bandit buttress (FA) the same day F.O.L.L.O.F. Fear of love love of fear
Aka my divorce route
Shawn

I didn't know one pic would cause so much talk about climbing. Maybe ill post more photos!!
Credit: BurnRockBurn

Enjoying one of my rare days off with my future bride
velvet!

Trad climber
La Cochitaville
Jan 23, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
Is there anywhere decent to bivy if one wanted to spend a week around the area this time of year?? Camp ground open? Mega cold at nights?

Also, how steep/long is the approach more or less? I've gotta a leg that requires some delicacy at the moment.

The boyfriend is coming in from England in two weeks and we've got about a week to kill in between my work stints in the Bay Area. Thought this place might be just the ticket if the weather is nice. Thoughts??

:)
lib
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 23, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
Velvet, the temperature can drop below 0 F at night. If you can drive 20-30 min there are number of motels in Carson Valley.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
Some thought it would be convenient to have a bolted easy crack at "bandit crag" too..
Yeah, I'm not even sure you need your hands for that one.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 24, 2013 - 12:38am PT
Kenny
I don't like that bolted crack but its already there. I've used it to teach people to lead trad on. If they get freaked about trad placement they can clip up. It's shitty that it was bolted but I'm just gonna get the best out bad situation. Routes fun either way.
Ran into the guy who bolted it and he said he wanted a crag in woodfords that you could "leave your gear and bring more beer".
Again don't agree but........beer is good
Shawn
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 27, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
Anyone available wed. or thurs. next week for the Fortress?
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 27, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
Hey guys and gals,

Didn't mean to start any controversey over April Fools Wall. Haven't checked this thread in quite awhile. I wasn't claiming any first ascent since there was already a bolt anchor on top when we did it. I just thought the picture and caption about pulling up the bolt kit was of a later ascent. Anyway i'm not claiming any first ascents down there except for Suicide Falls center 5.10x in 1978 with Steve Miller and possibly Sole fusion with Billy Price in 1980.Did other highly visible and desirable features there in the early to mid 1970's but i knew there had already been quite a bit of activity and such obvious features surely would have already been climbed.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 29, 2013 - 11:53am PT
Thanks for clearing that up Rick. Suicide falls has been calling me for a long time except for the x rating. I kinda like not killing myself for a climb
Shawn
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 29, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
So Ron how do you feel about making an X route safe by placing a bolt or two?
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 29, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
Thanks Ron. I never want to F up a route but I also want them safe. As you know woodfords rock can be quite loose and difficult to protect in some places. Hope to try those routes this summer so I don't want change your routes
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