Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 281 - 300 of total 2003 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Feb 24, 2012 - 05:50pm PT
Manimal,, the striking east face crack on the pillar is "way the hell up there" 11C,, FA DAno.


The gullies up and beyond have been explored but i dont know particulars, but there is good stuff up there and to the west as well,, near the "glowering spot" - a huge very visable block like hole that contains obvious roofs seen from the highway on "orange wall". Crawford did a route through the wall- quality HARD stuff!

The area between the suicide falls and the fortress have many gullies that are sided by rock and contain some stellar waiting lines! There were a few section 20 type climbs put up through these masses, but they were never topoed due to their wandering nature and mixed climbing (aid/free) and you may find anchors or fixed stuff from those climbs or descents from those climbs in ODD locations ...

Basically, MOST reaches above the main lower band of rock have new stuff jut waiting, and some of it is STELLAR.


As for Suicide,,,yes run out easy face I believe-Mostly easy pitches aiming for small obvious features like a small corner about half way up the face-most pitches back then werent even a full 150 in length also...It has spots of ok rock, and good anchors is it worth it? Well i put up a few routes on it although most were run out at some point,, but the "flavour" of the faces i guess is the attraction there, and not the rock quality or asthetics. Its worth a look if your adventurous. It has had a bit more attention and i think some of my routes my now have some bolts on them protecting runout sections also....And a new route or two reported to me by other climbers. Havnet seen any topos as yet.

Thje "flying block" was named for a HUGE solid block i ran into as part of a stcked corner, that when i touched it , decided to become one with gravity. It was easily eight feet long by four feet thick and eight feed wide...Belayer was out of the wat but it was a FABULOUS trundle into the creek,, purt near explosive!
Manimal

climber
SLT, Ca
Feb 25, 2012 - 09:17am PT
Thanks Ron. It's nice to know there is plenty of adventure and fresh stone in the back yard, even in 2012. I hiked out to Pleasant Valley a couple summers having seen a blurb somehwere's and saw some beautiful stone. Didn't know how accommodating the fishing reserve folks are so parked up the road a way. Is that eally private property to the trail head? Is there an alternative approach from Grover side?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Feb 25, 2012 - 10:38am PT
Yep,, pleasant valley is owned by the dresller family and they have closed the access to the trail head--an organization called "freinds of Hope Valley" are fighting it- unsure of current status though... Alternate approach to those awsome pleasant valley formations can be done from the burnside lake area, or upper blue lakes road- parking near jeff davis peak and hiking across to the NE to the tops of those crags...From burnside lake it is a short diatance down onto the tops of said crags as well. Those formations have some STELLAR stuff waiting,, waiting,, and waiting..

Adventure is hardly dead,, and GOLDEN ages are happening in these new areas!

Ubber alpine stuff can be had on Markleeville and Raymond peaks as well- on the south-west end of pleasant valley.. Too bad about the access being cut off--the children of the Dresslers are responsible for it and the Forest service doesnt seem to interested in securing access to their own trail head.....Local politics in action...
Meagher

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Mar 27, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
Never been to Woodfords to climb, but after driving by it thousands of times and thinking it looked like a good place to climb, I am thinking about heading there to check it out soon. From reading this forum it sounds like there is climbing on both the North and South side of the road is that correct?

At this point I am pretty out of shape so I am looking for the routes the easier side, any recommendations? Anything about the area, approach, parking that I should be aware of before I go?

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Mar 27, 2012 - 08:55pm PT
the Apron is a close to the road crag with some moderates.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Mar 27, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
sssooo who can tell me about "bandit crag" in Woodfords??
GILL

climber
Minden, NV
Mar 29, 2012 - 08:49am PT
What part of the canyon is Bandit Crag at?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Mar 29, 2012 - 08:50am PT
dunno...Ive only heard mention of it....
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Mar 29, 2012 - 09:48am PT
Ron I have the topo to bandit if your around your shop I'll drop it by today.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Mar 29, 2012 - 10:31am PT
Bandit buttress
Bandit buttress
Credit: BurnRockBurn

This is bandit buttress. Heading west from Woodford station about half a mile there is a huge parking area on the left. Park there. Head across the highway and you should find a well defined trail. There are four bolted climbs on it. Ill try to get the topo on it later. To the left is a 5.7-5.8 bolted crack (A break in security)...(I didnt do it so leave it alone) It is actually a really good place to teach trad leading as if they get nervous there is a bolt to clip instead of gear. Middle route is 5.8 bolted (Prowler). It shares and anchor with the next climb to the right of it at 5.9 (cat burglar). Around the side is a 4 bolt 5.10 (Cervazas in Zapata Land) All FA by Brian Chandler and Larry Van Sant
Theme is "leave the gear and bring the beer"
70 Meter rope is needed expecially for "break in security"

There is a trad route further to the right of Cervezas in Zapata land I put up in 2008 5.8 R that follows a corner system to the top. No anchor with a walk off. FOLLOF (Fear of Love Love of Fear

The gulley to the left of Bandit Buttres is a 3 route trad wall called April Fools wall. Put up by Dan Kennedy and Myself 4-1-08
You can see it to the left in the above picture
April Fools Wall <br/>
Chim pulling up the bag o drill for the anchor plac...
April Fools Wall
Chim pulling up the bag o drill for the anchor placement
Credit: BurnRockBurn
Anchors are below the tallest point where Dan is hanging out
Dirty 5.8 to the left
Middle crack 5.10 (where the pig is in the pic)
Right crack is 5.9
Can be run out before the anchors. Place a small cam at your feet on a ledge or you run it our 20+ feet to anchors.

Enjoy
Shawn
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Mar 29, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
Thanks for the info man! ^^^^ Had heard mention of it and just wondered where it was zakkly...;-)
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 7, 2012 - 06:15pm PT
What are the routes on the back of one of these days? a bolted face, a red tagged bolt, short dihedral and some stuff across the gully
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 8, 2012 - 06:33pm PT
All I hear is woodfords, woodfords, woodfords now I need a little info and nata. has the woodfords crew lost interest?
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 8, 2012 - 06:46pm PT
Finally got on "one of these days" today. Great route, even though I missed the onsight by about 10 feet. I'll be back:)
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 8, 2012 - 06:56pm PT
That's definately an awesome route and there are many other cool lines around I'm trying to get a hold of a topo for some of the surrounding routes. Tomorrow afternoon I think will just climb what looks good and figure it out later.
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 8, 2012 - 07:00pm PT
There were a few folks climbing on the cliff directly across the creek from One of these days. Don't know what they were on but it looked pretty fun.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 8, 2012 - 07:40pm PT
Yeah, Climbed over there on sun. The routes we did were a bit dirty but fun.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
May 8, 2012 - 09:19pm PT
Finally got on "one of these days" today. Great route, even though I missed the onsight by about 10 feet. I'll be back:)


Good go, Gomez! Did you "warm up" on it? I barely squeaked out the onsight with OOTD as a warmup and I will NOT be doing that again. I got away with something on that one. Let me know when you're headed back there, that would be some good endurance training for the bigger stuff ;).

The face climb(s) to the left of OOTD look pretty righteous as well.

GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
May 8, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
Yep "warmed up" on it I was pretty warm within the first 20 or so feet though:) I messed up at the top and tried to go too high, fell off and hung and saw the right way, felt like 5.9 once I saw the line. Oh well, I'll get it next time. That thing is pumpy though for sure.
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
May 8, 2012 - 09:43pm PT
good job Gomez!!! there is a decent .10a to the right that is good to warm up on. not great, but does serve as a good warm up. You can also TR a sweet .11 off the ten as well. I'll give you a shout tomorrow and catch up with ya!!

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