I've spent a fair amount of time at the Rock & Ice office, scarfing internet and coming down to use a phone.
They have an endless stream of famous or soon to be famous climbers passing by who stop to say hello. Here is the body type:
Men: 140 to 150 pounds or smaller. No amazing Ape index, but everyone of them has forearms like popeye that are filled with huge veins. The rest looked pretty normal, but none of them carried much fat.
Women: Tiny with a butt the size of an 9 year old boy. They also don't look height dependent, but also have forearm veins that look like they will explode. Also low fat.
The 5.14 people are all very lean, but not anorexic, and have incredibly veined forearms. If they wore a long sleeved shirt, they would look normal. No insane biceps.
If you have seen pics of climbers back in the day, many of whom were absolutely ripped with muscle, they were physically more than adequate to climb 5.14, other than the really muscled big guys. You don't need huge muscles.
My guess is that the many of the best climbers of the seventies could have done 5.14 if they had learned all of this new technique.
Aside: Nadia Comanici, the famous gymnast from Romania, lives in my town. I've seen her around town, and she is also tiny, with a tiny butt and pretty much no big rack. That said, Beth Rodden freed many of the free El Cap routes and she is stacked.
That said, Beth Rodden freed many of the free El Cap routes and she is stacked.
Hunh? Beth Rodden is "stacked"?
She's actually the paradigm of the very petit, very good female climber.
Maybe "stacked" means something different to you than it does to most people.
Men: 140 to 150 pounds or smaller. No amazing Ape index, but everyone of them has forearms like popeye that are filled with huge veins. The rest looked pretty normal, but none of them carried much fat. Women: Tiny with a butt the size of an 9 year old boy. They also don't look height dependent, but also have forearm veins that look like they will explode. Also low fat.
This is what I would guess after observing climbers for 60 years. Back in the 1950s it was possible for men to develop a powerful physique and do well on the rock, climbing at the top levels (a lot lower than now). This is what I tried to do, going from a scrawny 145 lbs at 6'1" when I entered Ga Tech, to 180 in a few years, using gymnastics primarily. I actually viewed climbing as a manly sport in which I could change my self-image.
It's a completely different world now. Pat Ament and I have joked about rock climbing eventually becoming the province of petite female gymnasts. I suppose that might possibly happen, but probably not. I remain curious if a female can do front levers, crosses, and planches. Rich Goldstone has promised to supply the evidence they can.
If so, all is lost, men. BURT BRONSON, where are you?
not at I could ever climb 5.14 (haha, or .12) but at my strongest and thinnest I think I was like 160. I'm not little. its kinda funny since almost all of my climbing partners have been smaller than I, especially now. being 5'9", I do have a decent ape index at 5 inches.
I wonder about the success of larger women climbing and have noticed the standard petite or thin body type. does climbing attract the type or generate the type? that goes for men and women.
Well I'm bouncing around 225 at 5'11' and the thought of getting off the couch scares me. At 195 I could do one arm pull ups, the best I could drag my sorry ass up was about a medium .11. I've worked .12's and finally got a few, but honestly when heading up to that spectrum, mass is an adversary. When I get onto the "Harder" routes .12 and up I just don't see anyway my body type is going to do that move.
But I'm solid to have your back in a barroom brawl...Through climbing and work my tendons in both hands have had multiple surgeries ( all related to over use), trigger finger in my 30's and carpel tunnel plus a few other surgeries that I can't even recall.
Gravity is a gruel mistress....Imagine what Korr and Whitaker could have climbed if they weighed what Warren did.