Heaviest person to climb 5.14


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mike m

black hills
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 23, 2009 - 04:35pm PT
Who is the heaviest person to climb 5.14

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Nov 23, 2009 - 04:35pm PT
Yer mom.

Nov 23, 2009 - 04:39pm PT
John Dunne climbed a bunch of sketchy 5.13X stuff, and must have done some 5.14 equivalent at some point (translations from E-grades are notoriously dodgy). He's a big fellow. Not the sort of guy you would want to piss off.


Google Edit: He's climbed 8c+, which clocks in around 5.14c

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Nov 23, 2009 - 04:50pm PT
My guess is Dunne.

How many size 2XL guys cranking the tinky crimps, thin cracks or even the big wide horror are there out there anyway?

I mean guys who are over 6'4" and 200lbs of meat/bone/gristle crankin' hard. Hell, are there any wimmin that size climbin' ?


Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 23, 2009 - 04:59pm PT
Both Largo and Peter Haan seem fairly large, and were climbing equivalently difficult things in the 1970s, by standards then. That is, climbs about as difficult as anyone was then doing.

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Nov 23, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
Anders I'm talking REALLY BIG ........ 2XL ( remember the BIG teeshirts at MEC - guys that fit THOSE )
Guys that make Largo seem small.

Trad climber
Nov 23, 2009 - 05:46pm PT

thomas willenberg looks hefty. the bouldering sequences in inertia are really impressive.

more recent stuff here. he looks skinnier now:


Buzzard Point, TN
Nov 23, 2009 - 05:49pm PT
5.15b is the hardest route as far as "standards" go...

I'm guessing Sharma is the heaviest to redpoint at that end of the spectrum...


Big Wall climber
Nor Nev
Nov 23, 2009 - 05:58pm PT
If your 160 pounds and you put up a 5.14 and joe blow who weighs in at 200 plus does your 5.14 is it 5.14 for the large guy with large hands or is it harder?????

Vancouver BC
Nov 23, 2009 - 06:08pm PT
I always thought that if your hands/fingers were smaller, crimping/pockets would feel larger, therefore the grade would be subjective!?

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Nov 23, 2009 - 06:16pm PT
I don't know his name, I think Johnny Dunne... from England, Peak District... The guy is massive and climbs just as strong...

All you big dudes have no excuses after him!!!

You can either bring it or you can't!

Brian Edit: Not the kind of guy you want to spot to the first bolt in Touloumne either!!!!

Trad climber
fort garland, colo
Nov 23, 2009 - 06:31pm PT
John Dunne is not that big really- I doubt he is more than 180. I did the f/a of a 12C at 215 lbs (trad drilled on lead).
I remember Christian griffith saying- " I was part of the volumous elite at 6'3" and 165lbs" during a trip to Boux.

Trad climber
Behind the Zion Curtain
Nov 23, 2009 - 06:41pm PT
Just how big was Largo at his max? (Height and Weight please)

Always wondered that.....being a big boy, myself.

Dunne and Largo are my inspiration.

Trad climber
new york, NY
Nov 23, 2009 - 06:58pm PT
what about that big dude that went to india with sharma et al?

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Nov 23, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
You are one slabbo' meat there...........

tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Nov 23, 2009 - 07:06pm PT
Don't know the heaviest, but this is a skinny person's sport for sure.

Trad climber
fort garland, colo
Nov 23, 2009 - 07:06pm PT
Talk about a slabo meat Tami?! HotHotHot Still doin' the naked blanket toss ?
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 23, 2009 - 07:09pm PT
Largo at his absolute peak form was 204 as I recall. I varied between 185-195 but was probably just right at 188. Larg and I are the same ht, about 6ft 1inch or 1-1/2 inch. Largo was actually stronger than I was, I think too. But we both could do one-arm pullups on either arm.

About hand and finger size vis a vis hold size, it is clear that the geometry of the hand and wrist tends to indicate that if you can get more fingers on a hold, that hold is better for you than for someone who has to leave out fingers because his fingers are big and thus opening up the hand geometry against the load. The hold of course stays the same but less of the human is addresssing it depending on that climber's size.

But in the end, it seems that no matter what, the most important body part of a climber is the mind.

Big Wall climber
Nov 23, 2009 - 07:09pm PT
The heavy thing is always interesting to me. I started climbing weighing in at 285lbs. Now I'm a nice light 236-240lbs depending on the day and I'm only 5' 10". I haven't climbed 5.14...in fact 5.12c is the hardest that I have successfully finished. But it always seems like it takes me so long to get my fingers strong enough to hold myself to the wall!

Mountain climber
GOP Convention
Nov 23, 2009 - 07:11pm PT
Hey, I'm huge right now and led a 5.4 three weeks ago.........oh, never mind, you said 5.14.

The evil one
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