Heaviest person to climb 5.14

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midarockjock

climber
USA
Nov 30, 2009 - 12:35pm PT
I to am reasonably certain he could have, though he has much higher
ethics than many others.

Yes, he is very strong though he tested below John Gill for strength.
I'm reasonably certain John G. could have climbed 5.14 also with history
allowing but, it (shoe design) did not then.

So it reads like Dunne? Thanks socalbolter.
mike m

climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
How much did Gill weigh? In some of the pictures I have seen he looked like a big guy. Most of todays climbers that are sending hard numbers look like they are probably under 150 lbs.
midarockjock

climber
USA
Nov 30, 2009 - 02:07pm PT
Probably what you are asking for is here and maybe with 5.14 notes.
http://johngill.net/

I think he probably climbed 5.12-5.13 prior to "Bachar, Kauk and Largo but,
probably not at h3-4(Caliente)->h5(if any) with 100's of feet of climbing".
Stunt hulk

Gym climber
Slidell
Jun 25, 2013 - 02:28am PT
Well I'm personally 6'1 and the lightest I've ever been and this was when I was doing triathlons was 198. I'm currently in to climbing and Crossfit and I'm at 215. Mind you I've been a gymnast and acrobat since I was a kid so I have a far stronger chore and greater understanding of my body mechanics than most guys my size.
Stunt hulk

Gym climber
Slidell
Jun 25, 2013 - 02:35am PT
I also climb with an other guy who's a lil shorter than I am and is over 200 as well cause he's part Samoan. He currently competes in bouldering comps and places real well. I'd say size matters for the most part but if genetically you're a big guy just work with what you got and train your butt off till you meet your goals. Shoot Olympic power lifter are like ants. They can lift weights that guys at their size prob shouldn't but they make it happen. People said Muggsy Bogues at 5'3 would never play in the NBA or dunk a basketball but he made the impossible possible!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jun 25, 2013 - 03:21am PT
The Munge Lunge



sent at 220 (after many tries mind you)

Not 5.14, but it ain't 5.2. Stoked to have sent.

Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Jun 25, 2013 - 03:51am PT
heard about a big dude who hangs out in south yosemite, i think bluey told me about the dude, 380, drinks a case of beer a day and sends 5.14,

bluey peaks out after a 12 pack, me after a 4 pac of red bull,

did the Dead ever play at red rocks?

goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jun 25, 2013 - 08:32am PT

Bachar could have done some 14's if he wanted to, he was certainly stronger than many of the climbers who did.

It was probably all that bolt chopping that was holding him back.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Jun 25, 2013 - 10:53am PT
When Dunne did his hard routes, he was actually light. Especially compared to his "normal". The guy would train and climb while fat, then cut a ton of weight for a project, send, them blow back up like a blimp.

The heaviest for 5.14? Could be Klem Loskott(sp?) that giant austrian, who apparently started climbing again in the last couple years and has established stuff in the V14/15 range since then.

Don't know if he ever roped up for something that hard, but I remember Greg Loh sending stuff around V10 back around 2000 or so. And he was probably 5'9, and about 200lb.
Cragar

Trad climber
MSLA - MT
Jun 25, 2013 - 11:13am PT
Where is he now? Climbing Great John Dunne - The Biggest Nuts of Any Climber Alive
In an ongoing series dedicated to fat climbers and where are they now, this post will focus on John Dunne. Apart from the puns, John 'weighs nearly a tonne' Dunne, JD remains one of the gritstone masters and owner of a large set of cajones. You can read more here:

This golden age was spent climbing gritstone, limestone, and Alpine routes, and John was responsible for many new, hard, and often poorly protected routes in the UK. John continued to push himself for three years after Hard Grit was filmed, until he found himself fighting for his life on the first ascent of ‘Breathless’ – a crimpy, dangerously run-out E10 in the Lake District - “I nearly f*#ked it”.

JD was one of the original gritstone climbers, one who spawned, figuratively, climbers like Neil Gresham. Putting up impossible routes like Parthian Shot (E9) - trust me, an unbelievable line, I nearly shat when I toed up to the route - JD attracted as much attention to his climbing fortitude as his waist line. I truly believe Parthian Shot, an unprotected screamer, is one of the most visionary gritstone lines, and that's what I like, vision. Never one to turn down a snack, JD often put up routes with the sketchiest of pro, run-outs, and little room to hide a doughnut. No stranger to the buffet line and advancing even further with an E10 in the Lake District, his place in climbing lore remains sealed with the likes of Johnny Dawes and Moffatt. Remember, climbing isn't always about zero percent body fat and losing 20lbs to do a roof route, it's about being 85kg, drinking pints, and barely fitting into your climbing tights. Oi, look at the size of that noggin!

http://www.getoutdoors.com/goblog/index.php?/archives/263-Where-is-he-now-Climbing-Great-John-Dunne-The-Biggest-Nuts-of-Any-Climber-Alive.html

Damn, look at that face!!
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Jun 25, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
At my peak I was down to around 205 but only if I got off a wall or was dieting hard, somethng I could rarely sustain for long becuase I felt so sketchy and all hollow inside. My normal kicking around weight age 21-30 was about 212, though sometimes I'd "swole" up to 220 during the winter if I was lifting alot, which I loved to do back then. The amazing thing abotuPeter H. being so stout is that he was crazy good at both thin hold bouldering and flares, which really favor the thin man. I still consider his FFA of Hourglass Left Side to be one of the best trad routes of the era becausde it had climbing that was rarely done back then. If someone big would have ripped out of the undercling onto that old Kamps coffin nail 1/4 inch bolt I think that baby would have gone. I imagine big cams have brought the route down to size but leading that on hexes was EXCITING. But I digress . . .

JL
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 26, 2013 - 12:17am PT
I'm not sure but Doug Reed was a giant. I remember reading about him and his climbing at New River Gorge in the 80's and was blown away that someone that big could climb that hard. I wish I could remember the stats. http://vimeo.com/16901409
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Jun 26, 2013 - 12:48am PT
Thanks a truckload, Johno.

As always too John. On that climb, Left side, Hourglass, I was 185-190 lbs, not too bad. I tried to be that weight back then. It's hugely different now of course. So to speak. It was only a couple weeks after my West Face of EC (4th) and the Salathe solo July 2-7 a month earlier and so I was at fighting weight and by Fall and end of the season, was recovered from those efforts for that Hourglass lead.

As others have noted above, you can be TOO light too. You are who you are, and if you are at the moment too skinny, you also have no reserves and are, what?, depleted... back then maybe more important than today. Bridwell always told me to shoot for 190-192, and so I did. Off the Salathe I was at 178, maybe even less as that was measured five days later at my parents' house after the Salathe. And, as it turned out, I was actually really weak, though I didn't think so. But I did fail on a climb or two before I went home. It took a month to recover but when I did, I was optimum. I recall it well. As the years accumulated thereafter, I should have kept my hand in and gone further, looking back today. But I was effing starving and could see no end to the endless loop of harder and harder stuff, equipment hadn't changed, shoes hadn't changed, it was actually dismal for a bit there as it appeared there was nothing changing and the future was simply more and more insane run outs. Who knew?? Thank god it changed so much.
jogill

climber
Colorado
Jun 26, 2013 - 01:19am PT
As always too John. On that climb, Left side, Hourglass, I was 185-190 lbs

I climbed at about 180-185, but I doubt I ever did moves above V10 50+ years ago.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Jun 26, 2013 - 01:24am PT
Well, JohnoG.... that climb is certainly not anything like V10. Its problem is more like piles of V3-V6 for so long and so far above horrid protection.

John.... you are our hero. Everyone says so and for decades and no one has forgotten. A knight in shining armor, though of course you wouldn't have it.
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Jun 26, 2013 - 02:13am PT
I climbed at about 180-185, but I doubt I ever did moves above V10 50+ years ago.

Hey John, never mind V10. 50 years ago 5.10 was pretty respectable :-)

Curt
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jun 26, 2013 - 02:20am PT
Not to diverge from the OP's original topic but, skinny, little, climber types abound in this thread.. I present 6'0 260-265 in my prime. If only I was so svelte now!
F
photo by: C.F.
lucander

Trad climber
Shawangunks, New York
Jun 26, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
I'm 160 (5'5") and one of my partners is a former offensive linemen, he clocks in at 200 (5'8") - it amuses us to imagine that we're the heaviest duo whose climbed a few routes at the Gunks.
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Jun 26, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
one of my partners is a former offensive linemen, he clocks in at 200 (5'8")
Offensive lineman for what, PeeWee?
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jun 26, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
Middle school, in these parts.

DMT
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