Heaviest person to climb 5.14

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mike m

climber
black hills
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 23, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
Who is the heaviest person to climb 5.14
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Nov 23, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
Yer mom.
Brian

climber
California
Nov 23, 2009 - 01:39pm PT
John Dunne climbed a bunch of sketchy 5.13X stuff, and must have done some 5.14 equivalent at some point (translations from E-grades are notoriously dodgy). He's a big fellow. Not the sort of guy you would want to piss off.

Brian

Google Edit: He's climbed 8c+, which clocks in around 5.14c
Tami

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Nov 23, 2009 - 01:50pm PT
My guess is Dunne.

How many size 2XL guys cranking the tinky crimps, thin cracks or even the big wide horror are there out there anyway?

I mean guys who are over 6'4" and 200lbs of meat/bone/gristle crankin' hard. Hell, are there any wimmin that size climbin' ?

Oy!

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 23, 2009 - 01:59pm PT
Both Largo and Peter Haan seem fairly large, and were climbing equivalently difficult things in the 1970s, by standards then. That is, climbs about as difficult as anyone was then doing.
Tami

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Nov 23, 2009 - 02:03pm PT
Anders I'm talking REALLY BIG ........ 2XL ( remember the BIG teeshirts at MEC - guys that fit THOSE )
Guys that make Largo seem small.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Nov 23, 2009 - 02:46pm PT

thomas willenberg looks hefty. the bouldering sequences in inertia are really impressive.

more recent stuff here. he looks skinnier now:

http://4-seasons.tv/de/film/thomas-willenberg-bouldern-in-sachsen
426

climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Nov 23, 2009 - 02:49pm PT
5.15b is the hardest route as far as "standards" go...

I'm guessing Sharma is the heaviest to redpoint at that end of the spectrum...

Silver

Big Wall climber
Nor Nev
Nov 23, 2009 - 02:58pm PT
If your 160 pounds and you put up a 5.14 and joe blow who weighs in at 200 plus does your 5.14 is it 5.14 for the large guy with large hands or is it harder?????
pazzo

climber
Vancouver BC
Nov 23, 2009 - 03:08pm PT
I always thought that if your hands/fingers were smaller, crimping/pockets would feel larger, therefore the grade would be subjective!?
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Nov 23, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
I don't know his name, I think Johnny Dunne... from England, Peak District... The guy is massive and climbs just as strong...


All you big dudes have no excuses after him!!!

You can either bring it or you can't!


Brian Edit: Not the kind of guy you want to spot to the first bolt in Touloumne either!!!!
slabbo

Trad climber
fort garland, colo
Nov 23, 2009 - 03:31pm PT
John Dunne is not that big really- I doubt he is more than 180. I did the f/a of a 12C at 215 lbs (trad drilled on lead).
I remember Christian griffith saying- " I was part of the volumous elite at 6'3" and 165lbs" during a trip to Boux.
Tea

Trad climber
Behind the Zion Curtain
Nov 23, 2009 - 03:41pm PT
Just how big was Largo at his max? (Height and Weight please)

Always wondered that.....being a big boy, myself.

Dunne and Largo are my inspiration.
AbeFrohman

Trad climber
new york, NY
Nov 23, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
what about that big dude that went to india with sharma et al?
Tami

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Nov 23, 2009 - 04:03pm PT
You are one slabbo' meat there...........

tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Nov 23, 2009 - 04:06pm PT
Don't know the heaviest, but this is a skinny person's sport for sure.
slabbo

Trad climber
fort garland, colo
Nov 23, 2009 - 04:06pm PT
Talk about a slabo meat Tami?! HotHotHot Still doin' the naked blanket toss ?
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 23, 2009 - 04:09pm PT
Largo at his absolute peak form was 204 as I recall. I varied between 185-195 but was probably just right at 188. Larg and I are the same ht, about 6ft 1inch or 1-1/2 inch. Largo was actually stronger than I was, I think too. But we both could do one-arm pullups on either arm.

About hand and finger size vis a vis hold size, it is clear that the geometry of the hand and wrist tends to indicate that if you can get more fingers on a hold, that hold is better for you than for someone who has to leave out fingers because his fingers are big and thus opening up the hand geometry against the load. The hold of course stays the same but less of the human is addresssing it depending on that climber's size.

But in the end, it seems that no matter what, the most important body part of a climber is the mind.
Prezwoodz

Big Wall climber
Anchorage
Nov 23, 2009 - 04:09pm PT
The heavy thing is always interesting to me. I started climbing weighing in at 285lbs. Now I'm a nice light 236-240lbs depending on the day and I'm only 5' 10". I haven't climbed 5.14...in fact 5.12c is the hardest that I have successfully finished. But it always seems like it takes me so long to get my fingers strong enough to hold myself to the wall!
fattrad

Mountain climber
GOP Convention
Nov 23, 2009 - 04:11pm PT
Hey, I'm huge right now and led a 5.4 three weeks ago.........oh, never mind, you said 5.14.




The evil one
Curt

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Nov 23, 2009 - 04:12pm PT
Well, as far as bouldering goes, Scott Blunk (6'7" and 235lbs) can certainly crank hard enough. I've personally seen him do V8 problems.

Curt
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 23, 2009 - 04:40pm PT
John Dunne is a great example of a more current, larger climber. Note he put up Parthian Shot!!

Here is the only youtube i could find with John himself at work. The guy is a gas! He probably is about 190 in the video but other images seem to have him quite a bit heavier. Obviously he likes his pubs!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1GTAZOwdvk
Werd

Trad climber
Bay area
Nov 23, 2009 - 04:59pm PT
I clock in at 6'4" and 205lb.

I once lost 30lbs in 1wk due to a raging septic infection after a knee operation--1 month later and the weakest I've been in my life, I flashed sport routes at my highest level I'd ever climbed. This wasn't "winter weight" I lost; all of my wt loss was pure muscle (and I'm not a gym rat).

It made me a believer that weight is much more important than strength on sport routes--I think trad is so much mental that it's a wash on trad routes, at least until you get into 5.13 and above range. Alpine routes are obviously better for lighter weight folks, and most moderate aid (C2-3) is probably best for heavier folks--at least the hauling. I'd bet that dicey aid is better for lighter folks: testing a rurp with a 1kn+ load (me) scares me...

Now that I think about it, I've only ever seen one person climbing 5.12 trad or higher who weighed >180lbs. Not saying it doesn't happen, but I am saying that it's much more common and likely that someone climbing >5.12 is a lightweight or midweight.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Nov 23, 2009 - 05:17pm PT
Kind of an odd question but oh well. I'd also toss Klem Loskot into the mix. Don't know his exact stats, but he appears far burlier than many of his counterparts.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 23, 2009 - 05:35pm PT
Werd on the Street is that Scott Blunk is the best spotter, ever...
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 23, 2009 - 05:37pm PT
Wasn't there a Swiss guy a few years ago who was pretty big but cranked pretty hard? What was his name?
midarockjock

climber
USA
Nov 23, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
How much does cos weigh?
Curt

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Nov 23, 2009 - 05:51pm PT
I can personally attest to Scott Blunk being the world's best spotter. You don't really want to have to spot him, though.

Curt
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 23, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
I believe that I am the most average sized person to climb .13 OW....
Pate

Trad climber
The Lost Highway
Nov 23, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
This guy can't even climb to the bathroom.

Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Nov 23, 2009 - 07:07pm PT
After about the age 21, the only way I could stay below about 215 was to do a wall or two and then my 205 "fighting weight" Peter mentioned would hold till I hit the first smorgy. I could keep it down there for a while but I always felt cranky and edgy - and starving. I think they call it a "set point," and if you drop below it too far things don't work so well.

JL
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 23, 2009 - 07:19pm PT
Though I am well beyond it now; I have found that I don't climb my best at my lowest percent body fat......
wildone

climber
GHOST TOWN
Nov 23, 2009 - 08:02pm PT
I'm sorry, but john dunne is WAY over 180-190.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 23, 2009 - 09:07pm PT
Verm isn't such a small guy, either. 'Specially for a pebble-wrestler.
Tami

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Nov 23, 2009 - 09:09pm PT
Verm is TINKY compared with guys like Largo.

This guy Blunk sounds like he makes Largo look small.

Slabbo is NAUGHTY.



midarockjock

climber
USA
Nov 25, 2009 - 07:28pm PT
I assumed you weighed more than that years later. I'm about 1" taller now
and weigh in at 170-175 about 10 pounds more than I was.

He is 6'3" at 154 lbs. and taller than his dad by 1" at that weight.
http://www.ronaldhearns.com/
The read more shows his height and new weight.

Do you know how much So. Cal Bolter weighs?

BES
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 25, 2009 - 08:18pm PT
hey Tami... shouldn't you be starting a thread on the "naked blanket toss" thing?
coz

Trad climber
California
Nov 25, 2009 - 08:25pm PT
I was about 170, 6'2'' When I climbed 14.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 25, 2009 - 08:29pm PT
Ron Kauk is a heavy dude...

Seriously, though, and a bit OT, I always thought climbing competitions should have weight classes like boxing or wrestling to be fair. Seems like a more important variable than age, which is how they usually break contestants up.

And Klem Loskot isn't that big, his name just makes him sound like he throws telephone poles around for fun. He has a boulder problem at Rainbow that shuts down Fred Nicole and Sharma.
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Nov 25, 2009 - 08:52pm PT
Naked blanket toss? What's that? Tell us more! Inquiring minds and all that.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno
Nov 25, 2009 - 09:13pm PT
"John Dunne is not that big really- I doubt he is more than 180."

hahahaha Maybe if he's only 5' 6"! He's a big doughboy! Can sure pull hard tho!
billygoat

climber
cruzville
Nov 25, 2009 - 10:19pm PT
Whoever is claiming Dunne is 180 is out to lunch. Chris Sharma typically weighs in between 170 and 180.
socalbolter

Sport climber
Silverado, CA
Nov 25, 2009 - 11:29pm PT
Do you know how much So. Cal Bolter weighs?

Last few years, I've been 185 or so and 5'9". In my prime I was probably down around 170 or so.

I'd have to go with Dunne too. He doesn't appear to be too tall, but I'd be shocked if he was under 200 lbs.
jemtuck

Sport climber
Johannesburg
Nov 26, 2009 - 12:08am PT
So I am guessing that at 6'4" and 220lbs, I am stuck in the 5.10's. Damn
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 26, 2009 - 12:23am PT
Kind of OT, but there are a few guys who fight at 170lbs who typically walk around at 210. I met one of 'em.... scary to think that they can fit inside my frame.

Being really good at guessing weight tells me Dunne probably weighs around 225 in that vid, at the lightest. He is what, 6'2"? His frame realistically wouldn't allow him to be much under 190.
Pate

Trad climber
The Lost Highway
Nov 26, 2009 - 07:15am PT
What's the average dress size of these sport climbers you're talking about?
cilia laurent

Big Wall climber
boulder
Nov 26, 2009 - 08:05am PT
I'm 2m02 and 98kg average, which is around 6'8" and 220lb. I'm sport climbing 12c-d currently, and still improving. I could be more powerfull and i'm still working on it. limits come from the fingers skin, injuries on fingers and elbows are too be controlled to. Of course I have a bigger reach, but core strength is crucial to take advantage on that.As for aid climbing, the reach is great climbing C1-2, but I get scared playing around on old fixed stuff.
My weight is definitely my main issue. For example, after beeing sick two weeks ago and dropping a couple pounds suddently, I crushed easily some old boulder problem, despite of the lack of energy i could feel from the stomach flue and the lack.
Bulge are a big deal for tall guys as well.

Laurent
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 26, 2009 - 08:18am PT
One of the sites was trying to say he weighed 185; obvoiusly this might have to have been when he was 17..... Dunne has had an interesting career. He was born in 1968, climbed like crazy until he was 21-21, developed complicated shoulder/joint problems that required surgery in 1990. After about 4-5 years depending on how you measure it, he "returned to world class form". (www.johndunneclimbing.com). Looks to be quite a cool guy. He has even done an early Brit ascent of the Bachar-Yerian (2000) out here.
Credit: Peter Haan
Credit: Peter Haan
Credit: Peter Haan
mike m

climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2009 - 06:58pm PT
After Thanksgiving dinner it might be me except I can't climb 5.14. I wonder if a 300 pounder could climb 5.10, sorry for the digression from this important topic, it must be the melatonin kicking in.
Ray Olson

Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
Nov 26, 2009 - 08:32pm PT
I vote for Dunne.
Done.
Silver

Big Wall climber
Nor Nev
Nov 27, 2009 - 06:39am PT
I just asked as I was always around 195 pounds and never seemed to be able to climb harder than 5.12 and that was always pushing it for me. I have fingers like ball park franks and my friends who were petite seemed to just launch through small sections like they were jugs. Oh well the best part now is that I am 215 and can shread 5.7 like no mans biz.

Long live 5.7! and long live 215 or 220 after last night.
J. Werlin

climber
Cedaredge
Nov 27, 2009 - 09:15am PT
Dunne has some of the smoothest, balanced movement I've seen.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 27, 2009 - 09:44am PT
Greg Olsen ... is a local boy who is pretty big. He has great athletic ability despite a life long struggle with the weight. I belayed him on 5.11d on the London Wall. It was pretty fantastic to watch him just float upwards..... he was about 250 at the time and I was well anchored.

I clock in at 6.2" and 198..... if I eat/drink much that goes way up...

The eternal struggle for some of US, is the weight.

I want to know about and see photos of the "Blanket Toss" come on tami... post.

P

L

E

A

S

E

..... :>)
pcousar

Sport climber
White Salmon, WA
Nov 27, 2009 - 10:12am PT
I too climbed a bunch with scott blunk in the late 80s.

Me at 5 ft 8, would struggle up some boulder problem, call scott over to give it a try, and there were times he would reach up and latch the last hold on the problem and ask where it went from there - doh.....

Oh, he was probably under 200 back then, but still a killer spotter, and I still needed to tie my 125 lb self down so as not to get sucked up through the first piece of gear if he fell on lead...
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 27, 2009 - 11:17am PT
While we are on the subject of heavy (and maybe in some cases tanky) upper level climbers, let us repair to the original notion and example of rotundity and the cutting edge. I speak of course to the much-acclaimed circumference and on-the-expedition training regimen of none other than Don Whillans. For lack of the original from which I manipulated this image (Where did Whillans go) about a half year ago:

Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
Nov 27, 2009 - 12:40pm PT
Lest we forget him soloing 5.11's w/t a cigarette in his mouth.
midarockjock

climber
USA
Nov 27, 2009 - 07:39pm PT
I saw a photo of Bachar in the 80's just after 5.13's were being put
up from the ground up. I think he was standing next to a guy Christian
who I think I confused cos for. At this time there were a few dozen 5.14's
at the most and only about a 1/2 dozen who climbed them all at h0-h1 when
that was used. Snake Dike, Dike Route, and Bachar Yerian I think they had
at h4 at this time.

I think I confused cos for Christian? How much does he weigh? Around this
time the aged 21 year old was past his fighting prime from his admission
was still flowing well through 5.11 boulder problems with a toothbrush
handy.

cos I know you from the books. Your about the same size as I and the
Hearns. This Christian guy looked a lot larger than Bachar at 170. Thanks
socalbolter.
Curt

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Nov 27, 2009 - 09:05pm PT
Bachar was never 170 in his prime--more like 160.

Curt
Tami

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Nov 27, 2009 - 09:51pm PT
Hartouni is filled with the shti of the dog. It wuzzin't a BLANKET TOSS it was a TRAMPOLINE !!! I mean.....................d'oh !!!

But what would I know ? I've never been taller then 5'2"

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 28, 2009 - 10:49pm PT
wouldn't that sound a whole lot better in french?

rempli de merde de chien

wow, it's a route name (not a particularly good route, but hey... the names don't mean anything anyway, right?)
midarockjock

climber
USA
Nov 29, 2009 - 05:24pm PT
He told me he was 170 just before July 5'th.
Probably so at 160, but I don't think he climbed any 5.14?
His weight like mine in my prime probably varied 10-15 lbs.
per day when training.

Possibly Christian did not climb 5.14 either and I believe there
was only 1 5.14 in the US at the time of the picture mentioned
previously, and I think it was at Smith Rocks C(?)urt.

I think mainly about 1/2 dozen frenchmen were the ones climbing 5.14
to begin with and they were welter weights at less than 160lb.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 29, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
Bachar could have done some 14's if he wanted to, he was certainly stronger than many of the climbers who did.
midarockjock

climber
USA
Nov 30, 2009 - 09:35am PT
I to am reasonably certain he could have, though he has much higher
ethics than many others.

Yes, he is very strong though he tested below John Gill for strength.
I'm reasonably certain John G. could have climbed 5.14 also with history
allowing but, it (shoe design) did not then.

So it reads like Dunne? Thanks socalbolter.
mike m

climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2009 - 10:47am PT
How much did Gill weigh? In some of the pictures I have seen he looked like a big guy. Most of todays climbers that are sending hard numbers look like they are probably under 150 lbs.
midarockjock

climber
USA
Nov 30, 2009 - 11:07am PT
Probably what you are asking for is here and maybe with 5.14 notes.
http://johngill.net/

I think he probably climbed 5.12-5.13 prior to "Bachar, Kauk and Largo but,
probably not at h3-4(Caliente)->h5(if any) with 100's of feet of climbing".
Stunt hulk

Gym climber
Slidell
Jun 24, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
Well I'm personally 6'1 and the lightest I've ever been and this was when I was doing triathlons was 198. I'm currently in to climbing and Crossfit and I'm at 215. Mind you I've been a gymnast and acrobat since I was a kid so I have a far stronger chore and greater understanding of my body mechanics than most guys my size.
Stunt hulk

Gym climber
Slidell
Jun 24, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
I also climb with an other guy who's a lil shorter than I am and is over 200 as well cause he's part Samoan. He currently competes in bouldering comps and places real well. I'd say size matters for the most part but if genetically you're a big guy just work with what you got and train your butt off till you meet your goals. Shoot Olympic power lifter are like ants. They can lift weights that guys at their size prob shouldn't but they make it happen. People said Muggsy Bogues at 5'3 would never play in the NBA or dunk a basketball but he made the impossible possible!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jun 25, 2013 - 12:21am PT
The Munge Lunge



sent at 220 (after many tries mind you)

Not 5.14, but it ain't 5.2. Stoked to have sent.

Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Jun 25, 2013 - 12:51am PT
heard about a big dude who hangs out in south yosemite, i think bluey told me about the dude, 380, drinks a case of beer a day and sends 5.14,

bluey peaks out after a 12 pack, me after a 4 pac of red bull,

did the Dead ever play at red rocks?

goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jun 25, 2013 - 05:32am PT

Bachar could have done some 14's if he wanted to, he was certainly stronger than many of the climbers who did.

It was probably all that bolt chopping that was holding him back.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Jun 25, 2013 - 07:53am PT
When Dunne did his hard routes, he was actually light. Especially compared to his "normal". The guy would train and climb while fat, then cut a ton of weight for a project, send, them blow back up like a blimp.

The heaviest for 5.14? Could be Klem Loskott(sp?) that giant austrian, who apparently started climbing again in the last couple years and has established stuff in the V14/15 range since then.

Don't know if he ever roped up for something that hard, but I remember Greg Loh sending stuff around V10 back around 2000 or so. And he was probably 5'9, and about 200lb.
Cragar

Trad climber
MSLA - MT
Jun 25, 2013 - 08:13am PT
Where is he now? Climbing Great John Dunne - The Biggest Nuts of Any Climber Alive
In an ongoing series dedicated to fat climbers and where are they now, this post will focus on John Dunne. Apart from the puns, John 'weighs nearly a tonne' Dunne, JD remains one of the gritstone masters and owner of a large set of cajones. You can read more here:

This golden age was spent climbing gritstone, limestone, and Alpine routes, and John was responsible for many new, hard, and often poorly protected routes in the UK. John continued to push himself for three years after Hard Grit was filmed, until he found himself fighting for his life on the first ascent of ‘Breathless’ – a crimpy, dangerously run-out E10 in the Lake District - “I nearly f*#ked it”.

JD was one of the original gritstone climbers, one who spawned, figuratively, climbers like Neil Gresham. Putting up impossible routes like Parthian Shot (E9) - trust me, an unbelievable line, I nearly shat when I toed up to the route - JD attracted as much attention to his climbing fortitude as his waist line. I truly believe Parthian Shot, an unprotected screamer, is one of the most visionary gritstone lines, and that's what I like, vision. Never one to turn down a snack, JD often put up routes with the sketchiest of pro, run-outs, and little room to hide a doughnut. No stranger to the buffet line and advancing even further with an E10 in the Lake District, his place in climbing lore remains sealed with the likes of Johnny Dawes and Moffatt. Remember, climbing isn't always about zero percent body fat and losing 20lbs to do a roof route, it's about being 85kg, drinking pints, and barely fitting into your climbing tights. Oi, look at the size of that noggin!

http://www.getoutdoors.com/goblog/index.php?/archives/263-Where-is-he-now-Climbing-Great-John-Dunne-The-Biggest-Nuts-of-Any-Climber-Alive.html

Damn, look at that face!!
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Jun 25, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
At my peak I was down to around 205 but only if I got off a wall or was dieting hard, somethng I could rarely sustain for long becuase I felt so sketchy and all hollow inside. My normal kicking around weight age 21-30 was about 212, though sometimes I'd "swole" up to 220 during the winter if I was lifting alot, which I loved to do back then. The amazing thing abotuPeter H. being so stout is that he was crazy good at both thin hold bouldering and flares, which really favor the thin man. I still consider his FFA of Hourglass Left Side to be one of the best trad routes of the era becausde it had climbing that was rarely done back then. If someone big would have ripped out of the undercling onto that old Kamps coffin nail 1/4 inch bolt I think that baby would have gone. I imagine big cams have brought the route down to size but leading that on hexes was EXCITING. But I digress . . .

JL
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 25, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
I'm not sure but Doug Reed was a giant. I remember reading about him and his climbing at New River Gorge in the 80's and was blown away that someone that big could climb that hard. I wish I could remember the stats. http://vimeo.com/16901409
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Jun 25, 2013 - 09:48pm PT
Thanks a truckload, Johno.

As always too John. On that climb, Left side, Hourglass, I was 185-190 lbs, not too bad. I tried to be that weight back then. It's hugely different now of course. So to speak. It was only a couple weeks after my West Face of EC (4th) and the Salathe solo July 2-7 a month earlier and so I was at fighting weight and by Fall and end of the season, was recovered from those efforts for that Hourglass lead.

As others have noted above, you can be TOO light too. You are who you are, and if you are at the moment too skinny, you also have no reserves and are, what?, depleted... back then maybe more important than today. Bridwell always told me to shoot for 190-192, and so I did. Off the Salathe I was at 178, maybe even less as that was measured five days later at my parents' house after the Salathe. And, as it turned out, I was actually really weak, though I didn't think so. But I did fail on a climb or two before I went home. It took a month to recover but when I did, I was optimum. I recall it well. As the years accumulated thereafter, I should have kept my hand in and gone further, looking back today. But I was effing starving and could see no end to the endless loop of harder and harder stuff, equipment hadn't changed, shoes hadn't changed, it was actually dismal for a bit there as it appeared there was nothing changing and the future was simply more and more insane run outs. Who knew?? Thank god it changed so much.
jogill

climber
Colorado
Jun 25, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
As always too John. On that climb, Left side, Hourglass, I was 185-190 lbs

I climbed at about 180-185, but I doubt I ever did moves above V10 50+ years ago.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Jun 25, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
Well, JohnoG.... that climb is certainly not anything like V10. Its problem is more like piles of V3-V6 for so long and so far above horrid protection.

John.... you are our hero. Everyone says so and for decades and no one has forgotten. A knight in shining armor, though of course you wouldn't have it.
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Jun 25, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
I climbed at about 180-185, but I doubt I ever did moves above V10 50+ years ago.

Hey John, never mind V10. 50 years ago 5.10 was pretty respectable :-)

Curt
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jun 25, 2013 - 11:20pm PT
Not to diverge from the OP's original topic but, skinny, little, climber types abound in this thread.. I present 6'0 260-265 in my prime. If only I was so svelte now!
F
photo by: C.F.
lucander

Trad climber
Shawangunks, New York
Jun 26, 2013 - 09:02am PT
I'm 160 (5'5") and one of my partners is a former offensive linemen, he clocks in at 200 (5'8") - it amuses us to imagine that we're the heaviest duo whose climbed a few routes at the Gunks.
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Jun 26, 2013 - 09:10am PT
one of my partners is a former offensive linemen, he clocks in at 200 (5'8")
Offensive lineman for what, PeeWee?
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jun 26, 2013 - 09:11am PT
Middle school, in these parts.

DMT
lucander

Trad climber
Shawangunks, New York
Jun 26, 2013 - 09:13am PT
Haha! He got run over by Ted Washington back in the day =) Do a google image search on that guy, yikes!
sandstone conglomerate

climber
sharon conglomerate central
Jun 26, 2013 - 09:16am PT
6'3 at around 205...some angles just beg for injuries, and the shoulders take a pounding
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Jun 26, 2013 - 09:30am PT
I've spent a fair amount of time at the Rock & Ice office, scarfing internet and coming down to use a phone.

They have an endless stream of famous or soon to be famous climbers passing by who stop to say hello. Here is the body type:

Men: 140 to 150 pounds or smaller. No amazing Ape index, but everyone of them has forearms like popeye that are filled with huge veins. The rest looked pretty normal, but none of them carried much fat.

Women: Tiny with a butt the size of an 9 year old boy. They also don't look height dependent, but also have forearm veins that look like they will explode. Also low fat.

The 5.14 people are all very lean, but not anorexic, and have incredibly veined forearms. If they wore a long sleeved shirt, they would look normal. No insane biceps.

If you have seen pics of climbers back in the day, many of whom were absolutely ripped with muscle, they were physically more than adequate to climb 5.14, other than the really muscled big guys. You don't need huge muscles.

My guess is that the many of the best climbers of the seventies could have done 5.14 if they had learned all of this new technique.

Aside: Nadia Comanici, the famous gymnast from Romania, lives in my town. I've seen her around town, and she is also tiny, with a tiny butt and pretty much no big rack. That said, Beth Rodden freed many of the free El Cap routes and she is stacked.
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Jun 26, 2013 - 11:27am PT
That said, Beth Rodden freed many of the free El Cap routes and she is stacked.
Hunh? Beth Rodden is "stacked"?
She's actually the paradigm of the very petit, very good female climber.
Height: 5'1''
Weight: 105
Maybe "stacked" means something different to you than it does to most people.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jun 26, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
Stevie Haston's biceps probably weigh about 200 lbs each
jogill

climber
Colorado
Jun 26, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
Men: 140 to 150 pounds or smaller. No amazing Ape index, but everyone of them has forearms like popeye that are filled with huge veins. The rest looked pretty normal, but none of them carried much fat. Women: Tiny with a butt the size of an 9 year old boy. They also don't look height dependent, but also have forearm veins that look like they will explode. Also low fat.

This is what I would guess after observing climbers for 60 years. Back in the 1950s it was possible for men to develop a powerful physique and do well on the rock, climbing at the top levels (a lot lower than now). This is what I tried to do, going from a scrawny 145 lbs at 6'1" when I entered Ga Tech, to 180 in a few years, using gymnastics primarily. I actually viewed climbing as a manly sport in which I could change my self-image.

It's a completely different world now. Pat Ament and I have joked about rock climbing eventually becoming the province of petite female gymnasts. I suppose that might possibly happen, but probably not. I remain curious if a female can do front levers, crosses, and planches. Rich Goldstone has promised to supply the evidence they can.

If so, all is lost, men. BURT BRONSON, where are you?
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Jun 26, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
not at I could ever climb 5.14 (haha, or .12) but at my strongest and thinnest I think I was like 160. I'm not little. its kinda funny since almost all of my climbing partners have been smaller than I, especially now. being 5'9", I do have a decent ape index at 5 inches.

I wonder about the success of larger women climbing and have noticed the standard petite or thin body type. does climbing attract the type or generate the type? that goes for men and women.

mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Jun 26, 2013 - 04:03pm PT
Well I'm bouncing around 225 at 5'11' and the thought of getting off the couch scares me. At 195 I could do one arm pull ups, the best I could drag my sorry ass up was about a medium .11. I've worked .12's and finally got a few, but honestly when heading up to that spectrum, mass is an adversary. When I get onto the "Harder" routes .12 and up I just don't see anyway my body type is going to do that move.
But I'm solid to have your back in a barroom brawl...Through climbing and work my tendons in both hands have had multiple surgeries ( all related to over use), trigger finger in my 30's and carpel tunnel plus a few other surgeries that I can't even recall.
Gravity is a gruel mistress....Imagine what Korr and Whitaker could have climbed if they weighed what Warren did.
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Jun 26, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
My 6'4" 285 lb ascent of Suicide's Duck Soup 5.10 in E.B.s doesn't come close.....but it felt that way at the time!
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Oct 16, 2013 - 12:21am PT
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