Heaviest person to climb 5.14


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Trad climber
Bay area
Nov 23, 2009 - 07:59pm PT
I clock in at 6'4" and 205lb.

I once lost 30lbs in 1wk due to a raging septic infection after a knee operation--1 month later and the weakest I've been in my life, I flashed sport routes at my highest level I'd ever climbed. This wasn't "winter weight" I lost; all of my wt loss was pure muscle (and I'm not a gym rat).

It made me a believer that weight is much more important than strength on sport routes--I think trad is so much mental that it's a wash on trad routes, at least until you get into 5.13 and above range. Alpine routes are obviously better for lighter weight folks, and most moderate aid (C2-3) is probably best for heavier folks--at least the hauling. I'd bet that dicey aid is better for lighter folks: testing a rurp with a 1kn+ load (me) scares me...

Now that I think about it, I've only ever seen one person climbing 5.12 trad or higher who weighed >180lbs. Not saying it doesn't happen, but I am saying that it's much more common and likely that someone climbing >5.12 is a lightweight or midweight.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Nov 23, 2009 - 08:17pm PT
Kind of an odd question but oh well. I'd also toss Klem Loskot into the mix. Don't know his exact stats, but he appears far burlier than many of his counterparts.

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 23, 2009 - 08:35pm PT
Werd on the Street is that Scott Blunk is the best spotter, ever...
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 23, 2009 - 08:37pm PT
Wasn't there a Swiss guy a few years ago who was pretty big but cranked pretty hard? What was his name?

Nov 23, 2009 - 08:38pm PT
How much does cos weigh?

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Nov 23, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
I can personally attest to Scott Blunk being the world's best spotter. You don't really want to have to spot him, though.


Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 23, 2009 - 08:55pm PT
I believe that I am the most average sized person to climb .13 OW....

Trad climber
The Lost Highway
Nov 23, 2009 - 08:55pm PT
This guy can't even climb to the bathroom.


Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Nov 23, 2009 - 10:07pm PT
After about the age 21, the only way I could stay below about 215 was to do a wall or two and then my 205 "fighting weight" Peter mentioned would hold till I hit the first smorgy. I could keep it down there for a while but I always felt cranky and edgy - and starving. I think they call it a "set point," and if you drop below it too far things don't work so well.


Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 23, 2009 - 10:19pm PT
Though I am well beyond it now; I have found that I don't climb my best at my lowest percent body fat......

Nov 23, 2009 - 11:02pm PT
I'm sorry, but john dunne is WAY over 180-190.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 24, 2009 - 12:07am PT
Verm isn't such a small guy, either. 'Specially for a pebble-wrestler.

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Nov 24, 2009 - 12:09am PT
Verm is TINKY compared with guys like Largo.

This guy Blunk sounds like he makes Largo look small.

Slabbo is NAUGHTY.


Nov 25, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
I assumed you weighed more than that years later. I'm about 1" taller now
and weigh in at 170-175 about 10 pounds more than I was.

He is 6'3" at 154 lbs. and taller than his dad by 1" at that weight.
The read more shows his height and new weight.

Do you know how much So. Cal Bolter weighs?

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 25, 2009 - 11:18pm PT
hey Tami... shouldn't you be starting a thread on the "naked blanket toss" thing?
The Warbler

the edge of America
Nov 25, 2009 - 11:29pm PT
Ron Kauk is a heavy dude...

Seriously, though, and a bit OT, I always thought climbing competitions should have weight classes like boxing or wrestling to be fair. Seems like a more important variable than age, which is how they usually break contestants up.

And Klem Loskot isn't that big, his name just makes him sound like he throws telephone poles around for fun. He has a boulder problem at Rainbow that shuts down Fred Nicole and Sharma.

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Nov 25, 2009 - 11:52pm PT
Naked blanket toss? What's that? Tell us more! Inquiring minds and all that.

Big Wall climber
Nov 26, 2009 - 12:13am PT
"John Dunne is not that big really- I doubt he is more than 180."

hahahaha Maybe if he's only 5' 6"! He's a big doughboy! Can sure pull hard tho!

Nov 26, 2009 - 01:19am PT
Whoever is claiming Dunne is 180 is out to lunch. Chris Sharma typically weighs in between 170 and 180.

Sport climber
Silverado, CA
Nov 26, 2009 - 02:29am PT
Do you know how much So. Cal Bolter weighs?

Last few years, I've been 185 or so and 5'9". In my prime I was probably down around 170 or so.

I'd have to go with Dunne too. He doesn't appear to be too tall, but I'd be shocked if he was under 200 lbs.
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