Heaviest person to climb 5.14


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Sport climber
Nov 26, 2009 - 03:08am PT
So I am guessing that at 6'4" and 220lbs, I am stuck in the 5.10's. Damn

Social climber
Nov 26, 2009 - 03:23am PT
Kind of OT, but there are a few guys who fight at 170lbs who typically walk around at 210. I met one of 'em.... scary to think that they can fit inside my frame.

Being really good at guessing weight tells me Dunne probably weighs around 225 in that vid, at the lightest. He is what, 6'2"? His frame realistically wouldn't allow him to be much under 190.

Trad climber
The Lost Highway
Nov 26, 2009 - 10:15am PT
What's the average dress size of these sport climbers you're talking about?
cilia laurent

Big Wall climber
Nov 26, 2009 - 11:05am PT
I'm 2m02 and 98kg average, which is around 6'8" and 220lb. I'm sport climbing 12c-d currently, and still improving. I could be more powerfull and i'm still working on it. limits come from the fingers skin, injuries on fingers and elbows are too be controlled to. Of course I have a bigger reach, but core strength is crucial to take advantage on that.As for aid climbing, the reach is great climbing C1-2, but I get scared playing around on old fixed stuff.
My weight is definitely my main issue. For example, after beeing sick two weeks ago and dropping a couple pounds suddently, I crushed easily some old boulder problem, despite of the lack of energy i could feel from the stomach flue and the lack.
Bulge are a big deal for tall guys as well.

Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 26, 2009 - 11:18am PT
One of the sites was trying to say he weighed 185; obvoiusly this might have to have been when he was 17..... Dunne has had an interesting career. He was born in 1968, climbed like crazy until he was 21-21, developed complicated shoulder/joint problems that required surgery in 1990. After about 4-5 years depending on how you measure it, he "returned to world class form". (www.johndunneclimbing.com). Looks to be quite a cool guy. He has even done an early Brit ascent of the Bachar-Yerian (2000) out here.
Credit: Peter Haan
Credit: Peter Haan
Credit: Peter Haan
mike m

black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2009 - 09:58pm PT
After Thanksgiving dinner it might be me except I can't climb 5.14. I wonder if a 300 pounder could climb 5.10, sorry for the digression from this important topic, it must be the melatonin kicking in.
Ray Olson

Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
Nov 26, 2009 - 11:32pm PT
I vote for Dunne.

Big Wall climber
Nor Nev
Nov 27, 2009 - 09:39am PT
I just asked as I was always around 195 pounds and never seemed to be able to climb harder than 5.12 and that was always pushing it for me. I have fingers like ball park franks and my friends who were petite seemed to just launch through small sections like they were jugs. Oh well the best part now is that I am 215 and can shread 5.7 like no mans biz.

Long live 5.7! and long live 215 or 220 after last night.
J. Werlin

Nov 27, 2009 - 12:15pm PT
Dunne has some of the smoothest, balanced movement I've seen.

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 27, 2009 - 12:44pm PT
Greg Olsen ... is a local boy who is pretty big. He has great athletic ability despite a life long struggle with the weight. I belayed him on 5.11d on the London Wall. It was pretty fantastic to watch him just float upwards..... he was about 250 at the time and I was well anchored.

I clock in at 6.2" and 198..... if I eat/drink much that goes way up...

The eternal struggle for some of US, is the weight.

I want to know about and see photos of the "Blanket Toss" come on tami... post.







..... :>)

Sport climber
White Salmon, WA
Nov 27, 2009 - 01:12pm PT
I too climbed a bunch with scott blunk in the late 80s.

Me at 5 ft 8, would struggle up some boulder problem, call scott over to give it a try, and there were times he would reach up and latch the last hold on the problem and ask where it went from there - doh.....

Oh, he was probably under 200 back then, but still a killer spotter, and I still needed to tie my 125 lb self down so as not to get sucked up through the first piece of gear if he fell on lead...
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 27, 2009 - 02:17pm PT
While we are on the subject of heavy (and maybe in some cases tanky) upper level climbers, let us repair to the original notion and example of rotundity and the cutting edge. I speak of course to the much-acclaimed circumference and on-the-expedition training regimen of none other than Don Whillans. For lack of the original from which I manipulated this image (Where did Whillans go) about a half year ago:

Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
Nov 27, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
Lest we forget him soloing 5.11's w/t a cigarette in his mouth.

Nov 27, 2009 - 10:39pm PT
I saw a photo of Bachar in the 80's just after 5.13's were being put
up from the ground up. I think he was standing next to a guy Christian
who I think I confused cos for. At this time there were a few dozen 5.14's
at the most and only about a 1/2 dozen who climbed them all at h0-h1 when
that was used. Snake Dike, Dike Route, and Bachar Yerian I think they had
at h4 at this time.

I think I confused cos for Christian? How much does he weigh? Around this
time the aged 21 year old was past his fighting prime from his admission
was still flowing well through 5.11 boulder problems with a toothbrush

cos I know you from the books. Your about the same size as I and the
Hearns. This Christian guy looked a lot larger than Bachar at 170. Thanks

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Nov 28, 2009 - 12:05am PT
Bachar was never 170 in his prime--more like 160.


Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Nov 28, 2009 - 12:51am PT
Hartouni is filled with the shti of the dog. It wuzzin't a BLANKET TOSS it was a TRAMPOLINE !!! I mean.....................d'oh !!!

But what would I know ? I've never been taller then 5'2"

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 29, 2009 - 01:49am PT
wouldn't that sound a whole lot better in french?

rempli de merde de chien

wow, it's a route name (not a particularly good route, but hey... the names don't mean anything anyway, right?)

Nov 29, 2009 - 08:24pm PT
He told me he was 170 just before July 5'th.
Probably so at 160, but I don't think he climbed any 5.14?
His weight like mine in my prime probably varied 10-15 lbs.
per day when training.

Possibly Christian did not climb 5.14 either and I believe there
was only 1 5.14 in the US at the time of the picture mentioned
previously, and I think it was at Smith Rocks C(?)urt.

I think mainly about 1/2 dozen frenchmen were the ones climbing 5.14
to begin with and they were welter weights at less than 160lb.

Social climber
Nov 29, 2009 - 08:38pm PT
Bachar could have done some 14's if he wanted to, he was certainly stronger than many of the climbers who did.

Nov 30, 2009 - 12:35pm PT
I to am reasonably certain he could have, though he has much higher
ethics than many others.

Yes, he is very strong though he tested below John Gill for strength.
I'm reasonably certain John G. could have climbed 5.14 also with history
allowing but, it (shoe design) did not then.

So it reads like Dunne? Thanks socalbolter.
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