Why Climb Everest ?

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Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Topic Author's Original Post - May 20, 2016 - 09:48am PT
Yesterday there were 200 summits of Everest and the Nepalese nation is rejoicing that things are getting back to normal. After three bad years on Everest (the fight, the serac fall, the earthquake provoked avalanche), it seems that the string of lo nak (black years) is over and the resident mountain goddess Miyolongsama has been appeased. Everyone is hoping this is the beginning of a recovery from the earthquake. The Nepalese government even managed to release some of the earthquake money from foreign donors that has been sitting unused for the past year. Things are looking up even though 4.0 aftershocks are continuing.

Personally, I've never had the desire to climb Everest for all the usual reasons mentioned, but it is a significant challenge for those who do. Here are some of yesterday's summiters and their personal motivations.

United States Marine Corps Ssgt. Charlie Linville became the first combat wounded veteran to summit Mount Everest along with Tim Medvetz of the Heroes Project. With them were a team of Sherpas, videographer Kazuya Hiraide, and TV producer Ed Wardle.

In the climate challenged category were Win Ko Ko and Pyae Phyo Aung from the low altitude, tropical country of Myanmar and a team of 13, including six army personnel from the desert country of the United Arab Emirates.

Lydia Bradey from New Zealand, the first woman to summit Everest without oxygen, scaled Mt Everest for the fourth time, while Masha Gordon, who hopes to be the fastest woman to complete the Explorers Grand Slam (seven summits and both poles) also climbed the mountain.

Also in the repeat category were Maya Sherpa who climbed K2 as part of the Nepalese Women's Team in 2014. Maya was the only professional female mountain guide to climb Everest this season.

Lhakpa Sherpa returned to Everest for a comeback after some years away. Her marriage to an abusive Romanian -American climber who actually knocked her unconscious at base camp on the northside during one expedition (as detailed in Outside magazine), finally left him with the help of a restraining order, and was seeking a comeback at the age of 43. It was her 7th summit.


Maya Sherpa


Lhakpa Sherpa

brotherbbock

climber
Alta Loma, CA
May 20, 2016 - 09:53am PT
Why make redundant threads?
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2016 - 10:07am PT
Those who have something positive to say can post here. Those who want to trash the subject can do it elsewhere on the thread for that purpose.
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
May 20, 2016 - 10:25am PT
I'd go in a heartbeat, Jan.

Lhakpa Sherpa is incredible.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2016 - 10:39am PT
I understand and sympathise with what you're saying Tami.

However, it seems to me that a person (particularly the first ascensionists) could say the same thing about an El Cap climb.

Why would anyone want to jumar half of El Cap with parties above and below them and on different routes to the left and right, then a bivouac reeking of human waste with strangers when it's been done so many times before?
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2016 - 10:43am PT
Agreed.

That's why I find it interesting to look at the different motivations of the people doing it.
brotherbbock

climber
Alta Loma, CA
May 20, 2016 - 10:55am PT
I really don't care why people want to hike up Everest. I wonder how many lbs of frozen human sh#t dot the S Col, however. Must be a few tons of turds by now?

Easy DMT....you're starting to "trash" the subject...
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2016 - 10:56am PT
That's exciting Cragman! Are you going on a private expedition or with an expedition company?

Meanwhile, here's an interesting photo of an artificial leg outfitted with crampons. That's got to be a first.



U.S. Marine Corps Ssgt. Charlie Linville and Tim Medvetz
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 20, 2016 - 10:57am PT
So the answer must be obvious to you. Different people have different motivations.

Reading your first post, when I saw the paragraph about someone climbing it with a bunch of people and a cameraman, I admit to having "oh FML the circus as usual" thoughts. But in the same time I realized a wounded soldier, was not raised to be a mountaineer, and having a goal like climbing the highest peak in the world can give a person like that a REASON TO LIVE. Depression and suicide is a major problem for veterans AND for very successful people out there, 'the rich' as we call them. Doing things like climbing mountains is likely helping their mental health greatly. As does rock climbing or whatever, is big help for most of the climbers out there. For many of us, it is the thing that keeps us sane, or semi sane?! Reason to live for some. Suicide/depression among rock climbers is not that uncommon, makes me wonder how much shorter the life would be if there was no such passion in life... :)
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Lassitude 33
May 20, 2016 - 11:01am PT
Ascending up Everest is challenging and dangerous, even with guides and fixed ropes. But, it ceased to be a respected "climbing" achievement decades ago. It has become a prestige bucket list "tick" for certain well to do individuals, particularly because it is financially out of reach of the masses. Not really sure what the attraction is, but not how I want to scratch my mid life crisis.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
May 20, 2016 - 11:19am PT
I'm sure Everest gets climbed by "real" climbers via different routes on expeditions that we never hear about. Seems like a pretty worthy objective to me.

As for the guided fixed rope crowd, I bet many get an obsessive compulsion to climb it. It always seems that way when people get killed and we learn their back story. I'm sure it's a great adventure for folks and creates an economy so it seems win win to me.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
May 20, 2016 - 11:23am PT
Layton Kor on why he climbed a desert tower back in the 60's
"Not because it's there but because it may not be there much longer"
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2016 - 11:24am PT
Cragman, I've got the perfect outfit to help you organize it (believe me you need someone to help with logistics in Kathmandu if nothing else).

The head of it is a Sherpa friend who managed to get himself and a fellow Sherpa with no ice axe down safely from K2 on a night when many world reknowned western climbers died. He spends summers in Steamboat Springs, Colorado, so it's easy to talk to him about it.You can email me through ST.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 20, 2016 - 11:30am PT
it's certainly not all plastic surgeons with a bucket list.

+1
Highest I have been was 6768 m or 22,205 ft (climbed it in two days from 9,000 ft but by than climbed a few peaks above 6,000M so was acclimated for a quick ascent), and breaking trail plus occasional boulder problems of climbing was hard enough. Everest is like 2000M higher! Even walk up routes up local 14ers are mentally draining. Using fixed lines, Oxygen and guides would still be hard as hell for a trained mountaineer or a professional training for that specific goal. Personally, I have respect for all climbers. Term climbing is appropriate to any going up. Rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, aid etc are all forms of it. Not to be confused with each other. As a mountaineer won't usually be able to relate to technical rock climbing, a rock climber does not usually relate well to mountaineers. They are different, but both ways to go up terrain different in nature. Dealing with different challenges. Both can be very cool and rewarding.
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
May 20, 2016 - 11:52am PT
I wanted to climb Everest since I could read. However, can't think of one reason why I would climb Everest under the conditions and situations that a commercial ascent entails. While I don't denigrate those who do clamber to the top via the conga line, it's not my style. That particular experience of climbing, of ascent, even on the worlds highest mountain is not my idea of climbing or mountaineering. I prefer more autonomy and self-reliance. Those are the major reasons why I have returned to the Andes, in particular Peru's Cordillera Blanca many times. High peaks, no crowds, no peak fees, easy approach,very little regulation. Anybody want to try an Everest route off the BEATEN track, I'm all ears. But those routes are usually harder, more dangerous and folks these days desire success, at ALMOST any price. The experience is secondary to the summit. Commercial trips, at the worst, offer the illusion of the summit and at best, a real CHANCE at the summit. As long as the government of Nepal is willing to take the money, and their is no lack of willing donors, commercial trips are here to stay.
TY
Stewart Johnson

Mountain climber
lake forest
May 20, 2016 - 01:04pm PT
I spent a few months on the hill
Back in 1988
We had the entire mountain to
Ourselves climbing a new route
Just four people
No climbing Sherpa
No O2
No radios ( dumb)


Of course no one goes to the
Kangschung face anymore!
And if you did you would have
To deal with a summit que
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
May 20, 2016 - 01:18pm PT
Everest is a proud mountain, despite what goes on on the South side. Think the Fantasy Ridge will ever get climbed? I am happy for those who choose to go guided who find fulfillment in their quests. I am also glad that it provides a living wage to the locals, who will hopefully start earning something comparable to their Western counterparts.

I've always wanted to climb Ama Dablam, like Cragman. However, I hear it's also mired in multiple pairs of fixed lines, etc. I think I'd be disappointed with the experience. If I ever get there for other than trekking (doubtful at this stage in my life), I'd find a similar, smaller, technical peak with no one on it like:

Bhagirathi III, in the Garwhal Himalaya.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 20, 2016 - 02:56pm PT
Think the Fantasy Ridge will ever get climbed?

Anyone is willing to cover the fees?! I would make it GO! :) And my dream unclimbed line on K2. Aye, not many are up to partner up for that type of thing..can't be done with someone you don't know well. Must solo brah.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
May 20, 2016 - 03:18pm PT
I've been a climber for over 3/4 of my life. It never even entered my mind as something that I would want to do. I'll probably never do the Nose for a subset of the same reasons.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 20, 2016 - 03:31pm PT
The nose is a great climb honestly. I would highly recommend it. Climbed it 3 times, out of season (January, early March, early April) each time with no problems from the crowds. Got passed by Sean Leary/Chric Mac once and Honnold/cameraman the other time. They did not hold us up FOR TOOOOO LONG... *tongue in cheek* :)
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