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cotuclimber
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Thank you for the reply Stewart. 80k would be the total for an expedition of four with the cost of the permit and porters included? Without it being part of a guided trip, correct? Most climbers would have trouble paying for logistics, unless financed by a third party, partially at least.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Ha ha I said 180000$
That was in 1988
God knows what the Chinese charge now!
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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My ice climbing buddy did Everest as part of a guided trip about 6 years ago. He went for double oxygen and did the summit wearing his ice climbing clothing, no down suit used.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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He went for double oxygen
Double the flow of O2? Like 4L/min instead of 2 or whatever their rate is?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Paul, can you PLEASE post some sort of a TR about your expedition to the North ridge of K2?? I read the article about it and it made me want to hang out with you or go on an expedition! :)
http://blog.oregonlive.com/terryrichard/2009/02/portland_climbing_film_event_h.html
"Best friends Gill James and Paul Teare -- I called them the Tahoe Terrors because they are from Tahoe City, Calif. -- were the live wires of the expedition because of their raucous behavior. During the endless mornings that we were stuck in bad weather at base camp, they would show up at the cook tent before anyone else was awake and crow like roosters. And this was when they were sober."
Pure gold. Makes me smile years after I read about it. Bwahahaha
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Ok Great stuff Robert
I'm familiar with the Nepalese side
Sounds like they have a good system
What happens on the north side?
Do the Chinese use a similar system?
When I was there in 1993 not much was
Going on in that regard.
And Vitaliy, The k2 trip was lots of fun...
Interesting part of the world.
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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thanks for your contributions to this thread Robert L...
you've posted a lot of insightful things and as such i've appreciated having your voice on here...
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2016 - 07:12am PT
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And now they're coming here!
Sherpas from Rolwaling are just departing for the Cassin Ridge on Denali. They are the three who did three 6,000 meter first ascents in three days this past year and the leader is a ten times Everest summiter.
It will be really interesting to follow their adventures in a very different place and style than they are used to. If anyone's interested, here's the website.
http://www.firstascenttashi.com/
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Here’s hoping the Sherpas have a great time!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Damn! The bros gots some moves! 🤪
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Majid_S
Mountain climber
Karkoekstan, Former USSR
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Everest is called " The mother of all gods"
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2018 - 08:38pm PT
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Majid-
That is an incorrect title however and one first given to it by western climbers. It is also not the mother goddess of the earth as westerners now commonly refer to it.
Chomo = female goddess
Lung = countryside
Ma = female or mother
This title refers to the goddess Miyolangsangma (Goddess of Prosperity) who is one of five sister goddesses residing in the Himalayas and not the most important one. She has however, brought great prosperity to the Sherpas in her region (Lung) known as Khumbu.
The most important goddess is her elder sister, Tashi Tseringma (Lucky Long Life Mother) who is always at the center of religious depictions and always the largest to show her importance. She resides on Tseringma Khangri, better known to the outside world as Gauri Shankar. It is a fact that fewer Sherpas from this region have been killed in the mountains per capita than Sherpas from other regions including Khumbu.
Here is a photo of their mandala. They are always depicted in the same positions wearing the same colors and riding the same animals. They are often depicted with a Tibetan saint named Milarepa who converted them from paganism to Buddhism. He is usually painted green since he subsisted for many years on wild nettles.
Tashi Tseringma in the center with snow white skin and riding a snow lion.
Miyolangsangma is in the upper left with yellow skin and riding a tiger.
Milarepa is in the Heavens above surrounded by his rainbow body, signifying that he became fully enlightened.
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MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
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You should tell them the story about Tilopa and Milarepa.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2018 - 08:44pm PT
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I'll let you do that. :)
I thought he was also called the Kukor Raja but I can't find any reference to that?
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Trump
climber
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So Everest is called mother of all gods and mother goddess of the earth, just maybe not by the natives? Maybe westerners misunderstood what the natives called it, or what they believed about it?
Seems like a pretty normal way for a name to evolve. If the mountain was originally named by humans based on a misunderstanding of the godly spiritual nature of the rock, and now it’s gotten a different title based on another misunderstanding of other people’s misunderstandings, well that just seems to be the way the game is played.
While on the subject of misunderstanding reality in our favor, I’m strangely inclined to agree with an earlier comment that those shallow Everest climbers probably don’t do it for the deeply held personal reasons that we noble climbers engage in our righteous pursuits. Ho boy. What I really need is a self-bullshit detector, but all I came equipped with is this others-bullshit detector.
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