Here are the 5.10 Standards- Abide

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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 20, 2006 - 10:59pm PT
Face Climb 10a:
Maxines Wall

Face Climb 10b:
East Butt Middle Cath.

Face Climb 10c:
Mothers Lament

Face Climb 10d:
Hot line, 6th pitch

Face Climb 5.11:
Void

Chimney 5.10a:
Hot Line 5th pitch

Chimney 5.10b:
Lost Arrow chimney

Lieback 5.10a:
Twilight Zone, 3rd pitch

Lieback 5.10b:
Wheat Thin

Lieback 5.10c:
Waverly Wafer

Lieback 5.10d:
High Pressure

Lieback 5.11:
Hour Glass, left side

Thin Crack 10a:
Stone Groove

Thin Crack 10b:
New Dimensions first pitch

Thin Crack 10c:
English Breakfast

Thin Crack 10d:
Leaning Meanie

Think crack 5.11:
Abstract Corner

Hand and Fist 10a:
Ahab

Hand and Fist 10b:
This and That Second Pitch

Hand and Fist 10c:
Straight Error, 2nd pitch

Hand and Fist 10d:
Final Exam

Hand and Fist 5.11:
Short Cake

OW 5.10a:
Crack of Doom

OW 10b:
Right side of the hourglass

OW 10c:
Houglass left side

0W 10d:
Mental block 2nd and 3rd pitches

OW 5.11:
Basket Case

Maybe The Birdman did have it right.

Substitute one route, per post, along with the standard it should represent.
andanother

climber
Jul 20, 2006 - 11:14pm PT
stone groove is a thin crack?

you got some big ass fingers, huh?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jul 20, 2006 - 11:45pm PT
last time i did stone groove it was mos def a thin crack. the crux was flared tips, as i recall. but then, the last time i did stone groove was 30 years ago. the most useful pro was first-generation #6 stoppers. the penultimate thin-crack peice.

munge, that list looks dead-on to me. fight the insidious grade creep NOW!!1!1
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
Jul 21, 2006 - 12:39am PT
For them to be standards... people must have done them... lot's of people. Let's start with you munge... have you done them all?

At a minimum your OW list is wacked.... Basket Case???? C'mon! Next guy that does it probably bags the 5th ascent.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 21, 2006 - 12:49am PT
Either way,
Reading that list gives me a boner.

Is that so wrong?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2006 - 01:13am PT
there's nothing wrong with that, first step to fixing a problem is admitting you have one.


I knew someone was liable to call me to the carpet. Russ, hell no, I barely stumble my way into Camp 4 much less do the Hourglass.

However, I will admit that it is a partial list from Bridwell's list in Ascent Mag July 73. Omg i dig that article.

See here's the thing. I have sort of a fetish for grades and grading systems. Not at the grade ticking level, but at the philosophical level.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jul 21, 2006 - 01:20am PT
i personally witnessed his mungedness fire lemon chiffon on his 2nd try in 85 degree temps. the boy has street cred. that don't mean he ain't fullashit like the rest of us, but he's earned his right to spray.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
Jul 21, 2006 - 01:23am PT
Bridwell? '73??? Makes more sense now. If this was your list, in 2006 1/2, something was up....

Guess the hippy lettuce was pretty good in '73.......
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jul 21, 2006 - 01:24am PT
and then there is the Mental block issue, again.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
Jul 21, 2006 - 01:31am PT
hahaha! We both know it is 5.8. Don't tell Melissa!
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jul 21, 2006 - 01:36am PT
She'll never hear it from me!
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Jul 21, 2006 - 01:43am PT
Maxine's Wall is more like 5.9, or even 5.8 in modern shoes. Roper called it 5.9 in 1972, and I don't think holds have broken off since then. There are a few thin moves near the bottom. If there were a dozen like that, it would be 5.10.

It's one of those routes, like Peruvian Flake, that somehow (Meyer's guide typo?) were overrated at 5.10, it stuck, and are now coveted by those attempting to skew their Lifetime Tick Average.
Maysho

climber
Truckee, CA
Jul 21, 2006 - 01:58am PT
Dude,

Maxines was my first 5.10 lead, I was so psyched and proud to send that thing when I was 14 yrs old. (1976)

You can't take that away from me! you just can't!

Peter
nutjob

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jul 21, 2006 - 04:43am PT
for EB middle cath, talking about the left side with bolt ladder that can be aided, or right side that does more traversing? cuz I've seen the left called 10c and right called 10a (and crux was more mental doing LONG run-out when getting lost and going straight up and drifting left after the right 10a section). Last move or two before reaching belay gave me pause, even though only 5.6 - 5.8 range
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Jul 21, 2006 - 05:14am PT
Maxines was my first 5.10 lead, I was so psyched and proud to send that thing when I was 14 yrs old. (1976)

In 1976 it was still Roper 5.9. It didn't become Meyer 5.10 until about five years later.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jul 21, 2006 - 06:15am PT
Lies! (edited)

Face Climb 10a:
Maxines Wall (actually agree more or less) Pro is so good that it seems easier. (that is after you clip the first bolt. Looks like there might have been a fixed pin down low long ago but the flake broke and the first bolt got moved up when it was rebolted. Crazy that you have to boulder the crux before the sport climb starts)

Face Climb 10b:
East Butt Middle Cath. (MAJOR LIE!! The bolt ladder is rated 10c and a total sandbag at that. It's at least 10d or 11a. I hear Ed Barry fell guiding it for YMS once!) Cold Fusion?

Face Climb 5.11:
Void {what's that?)Anchors Away

Lieback 5.10a: Peruvian Flake

Lieback 5.10c:
Waverly Wafer (always a sandbag at 10c. disagree)

Lieback 5.10d:
Waverly Wafer (would have said Good Book but dang rockfall, Second pitch Moratorium? Yin Yang?)

Lieback 5.11
Catchy Corner, pitch 2 La Escuela

Thin Crack 10a:
Stone Groove (rated 10b and I agree, suggest)

Thin Crack 10b:
Stone Groove or Midterm start

Thin Crack 10c:
Mr. Natural, First Pitch Salathe, Lunatic Fringe First and second crux,Manana

Thin Crack 10d:
Leaning Meanie NO WAY. It's 5.11 and I'm stickin to it! Serenity is the standard these days. Catchy? Five and Dime! (problem is that there should be separate finger and off-hands listings)

Hand and Fist 10a:
Ahab (Huh? Sandy sandy sandy. Plus hand and fist is hardly an Ahab feature, Sacherer Cracker is my choice)


Hand and Fist 10b: Rostrum Pitch 3

Hand and Fist 10c: I would have said Good Book (pitch before the final one) but it's too dicey so how about Rostrum pitch 6 before the final 10d lieback. OK That sucks but I'm running out of time here. Meat Grinder?

Hand and Fist 10d Final Exam is too far and Childhood's end is in the rockfall zone???

OW 5.10a:
Crack of Doom (I'd substitute the Rostrum)

OW 5.10c: It's Generator Crack these days, even though I'd call it 10d (if it were on a climb) Twilight Zone unless it's 10d, Mental Block

OW 5.10d Steppin Out or Twilight Zone (some standards eh?)

OW 5.11:
Basket Case (I'd substitute Blind Faith or Cream)

The popularity of routes sure changes in time

Peace

Karl
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Jul 21, 2006 - 08:55am PT
How about Twilight Zone for the OW 5.10d? Such a classic...
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jul 21, 2006 - 09:39am PT
Tom, gotta go with Peter on this one. Maxine's wall was my first 5.10, as well. And I first climbed it in about 1976 when it was definitely called 5.10. The first Meyers guide (green ring top) came out in the seventies, not five years after '76 ie '81. The question of whether it is soft for the grade is another matter. I climbed it a dozen or so times in the years around then but shortly thereafter, I figured out there were other 5.10's I could do, Ahab, Midterm, etc I never climbed it again.
scuffy b

climber
Chalet Neva-Care
Jul 21, 2006 - 11:06am PT
Karl, do you really think Lunatic Fringe is harder than Midterm?
Roger Breedlove

Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Jul 21, 2006 - 11:16am PT
Face Climb 10b: East Butt Middle Cath. (MAJOR LIE!! The bolt ladder is rated 10c and a total sandbag at that. It's at least 10d or 11a. I hear Ed Barry fell guiding it for YMS once!)

Are you serious on this one, Karl? Sacherer rated it 5.9, but I always thought it seemed fair to rate it easy 5.10. How did it get to be so hard? (I climbed in EBs.)

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