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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 20, 2006 - 10:59pm PT
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Face Climb 10a:
Maxines Wall
Face Climb 10b:
East Butt Middle Cath.
Face Climb 10c:
Mothers Lament
Face Climb 10d:
Hot line, 6th pitch
Face Climb 5.11:
Void
Chimney 5.10a:
Hot Line 5th pitch
Chimney 5.10b:
Lost Arrow chimney
Lieback 5.10a:
Twilight Zone, 3rd pitch
Lieback 5.10b:
Wheat Thin
Lieback 5.10c:
Waverly Wafer
Lieback 5.10d:
High Pressure
Lieback 5.11:
Hour Glass, left side
Thin Crack 10a:
Stone Groove
Thin Crack 10b:
New Dimensions first pitch
Thin Crack 10c:
English Breakfast
Thin Crack 10d:
Leaning Meanie
Think crack 5.11:
Abstract Corner
Hand and Fist 10a:
Ahab
Hand and Fist 10b:
This and That Second Pitch
Hand and Fist 10c:
Straight Error, 2nd pitch
Hand and Fist 10d:
Final Exam
Hand and Fist 5.11:
Short Cake
OW 5.10a:
Crack of Doom
OW 10b:
Right side of the hourglass
OW 10c:
Houglass left side
0W 10d:
Mental block 2nd and 3rd pitches
OW 5.11:
Basket Case
Maybe The Birdman did have it right.
Substitute one route, per post, along with the standard it should represent.
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andanother
climber
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Jul 20, 2006 - 11:14pm PT
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stone groove is a thin crack?
you got some big ass fingers, huh?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 20, 2006 - 11:45pm PT
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last time i did stone groove it was mos def a thin crack. the crux was flared tips, as i recall. but then, the last time i did stone groove was 30 years ago. the most useful pro was first-generation #6 stoppers. the penultimate thin-crack peice.
munge, that list looks dead-on to me. fight the insidious grade creep NOW!!1!1
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Jul 21, 2006 - 12:39am PT
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For them to be standards... people must have done them... lot's of people. Let's start with you munge... have you done them all?
At a minimum your OW list is wacked.... Basket Case???? C'mon! Next guy that does it probably bags the 5th ascent.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2006 - 12:49am PT
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Either way,
Reading that list gives me a boner.
Is that so wrong?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2006 - 01:13am PT
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there's nothing wrong with that, first step to fixing a problem is admitting you have one.
I knew someone was liable to call me to the carpet. Russ, hell no, I barely stumble my way into Camp 4 much less do the Hourglass.
However, I will admit that it is a partial list from Bridwell's list in Ascent Mag July 73. Omg i dig that article.
See here's the thing. I have sort of a fetish for grades and grading systems. Not at the grade ticking level, but at the philosophical level.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 21, 2006 - 01:20am PT
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i personally witnessed his mungedness fire lemon chiffon on his 2nd try in 85 degree temps. the boy has street cred. that don't mean he ain't fullashit like the rest of us, but he's earned his right to spray.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Jul 21, 2006 - 01:23am PT
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Bridwell? '73??? Makes more sense now. If this was your list, in 2006 1/2, something was up....
Guess the hippy lettuce was pretty good in '73.......
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 21, 2006 - 01:24am PT
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and then there is the Mental block issue, again.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Jul 21, 2006 - 01:31am PT
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hahaha! We both know it is 5.8. Don't tell Melissa!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 21, 2006 - 01:36am PT
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She'll never hear it from me!
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jul 21, 2006 - 01:43am PT
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Maxine's Wall is more like 5.9, or even 5.8 in modern shoes. Roper called it 5.9 in 1972, and I don't think holds have broken off since then. There are a few thin moves near the bottom. If there were a dozen like that, it would be 5.10.
It's one of those routes, like Peruvian Flake, that somehow (Meyer's guide typo?) were overrated at 5.10, it stuck, and are now coveted by those attempting to skew their Lifetime Tick Average.
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Jul 21, 2006 - 01:58am PT
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Dude,
Maxines was my first 5.10 lead, I was so psyched and proud to send that thing when I was 14 yrs old. (1976)
You can't take that away from me! you just can't!
Peter
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nutjob
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jul 21, 2006 - 04:43am PT
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for EB middle cath, talking about the left side with bolt ladder that can be aided, or right side that does more traversing? cuz I've seen the left called 10c and right called 10a (and crux was more mental doing LONG run-out when getting lost and going straight up and drifting left after the right 10a section). Last move or two before reaching belay gave me pause, even though only 5.6 - 5.8 range
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jul 21, 2006 - 05:14am PT
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Maxines was my first 5.10 lead, I was so psyched and proud to send that thing when I was 14 yrs old. (1976)
In 1976 it was still Roper 5.9. It didn't become Meyer 5.10 until about five years later.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 21, 2006 - 06:15am PT
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Lies! (edited)
Face Climb 10a:
Maxines Wall (actually agree more or less) Pro is so good that it seems easier. (that is after you clip the first bolt. Looks like there might have been a fixed pin down low long ago but the flake broke and the first bolt got moved up when it was rebolted. Crazy that you have to boulder the crux before the sport climb starts)
Face Climb 10b:
East Butt Middle Cath. (MAJOR LIE!! The bolt ladder is rated 10c and a total sandbag at that. It's at least 10d or 11a. I hear Ed Barry fell guiding it for YMS once!) Cold Fusion?
Face Climb 5.11:
Void {what's that?)Anchors Away
Lieback 5.10a: Peruvian Flake
Lieback 5.10c:
Waverly Wafer (always a sandbag at 10c. disagree)
Lieback 5.10d:
Waverly Wafer (would have said Good Book but dang rockfall, Second pitch Moratorium? Yin Yang?)
Lieback 5.11
Catchy Corner, pitch 2 La Escuela
Thin Crack 10a:
Stone Groove (rated 10b and I agree, suggest)
Thin Crack 10b:
Stone Groove or Midterm start
Thin Crack 10c:
Mr. Natural, First Pitch Salathe, Lunatic Fringe First and second crux,Manana
Thin Crack 10d:
Leaning Meanie NO WAY. It's 5.11 and I'm stickin to it! Serenity is the standard these days. Catchy? Five and Dime! (problem is that there should be separate finger and off-hands listings)
Hand and Fist 10a:
Ahab (Huh? Sandy sandy sandy. Plus hand and fist is hardly an Ahab feature, Sacherer Cracker is my choice)
Hand and Fist 10b: Rostrum Pitch 3
Hand and Fist 10c: I would have said Good Book (pitch before the final one) but it's too dicey so how about Rostrum pitch 6 before the final 10d lieback. OK That sucks but I'm running out of time here. Meat Grinder?
Hand and Fist 10d Final Exam is too far and Childhood's end is in the rockfall zone???
OW 5.10a:
Crack of Doom (I'd substitute the Rostrum)
OW 5.10c: It's Generator Crack these days, even though I'd call it 10d (if it were on a climb) Twilight Zone unless it's 10d, Mental Block
OW 5.10d Steppin Out or Twilight Zone (some standards eh?)
OW 5.11:
Basket Case (I'd substitute Blind Faith or Cream)
The popularity of routes sure changes in time
Peace
Karl
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jul 21, 2006 - 08:55am PT
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How about Twilight Zone for the OW 5.10d? Such a classic...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 21, 2006 - 09:39am PT
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Tom, gotta go with Peter on this one. Maxine's wall was my first 5.10, as well. And I first climbed it in about 1976 when it was definitely called 5.10. The first Meyers guide (green ring top) came out in the seventies, not five years after '76 ie '81. The question of whether it is soft for the grade is another matter. I climbed it a dozen or so times in the years around then but shortly thereafter, I figured out there were other 5.10's I could do, Ahab, Midterm, etc I never climbed it again.
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scuffy b
climber
Chalet Neva-Care
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Jul 21, 2006 - 11:06am PT
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Karl, do you really think Lunatic Fringe is harder than Midterm?
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jul 21, 2006 - 11:16am PT
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Face Climb 10b: East Butt Middle Cath. (MAJOR LIE!! The bolt ladder is rated 10c and a total sandbag at that. It's at least 10d or 11a. I hear Ed Barry fell guiding it for YMS once!)
Are you serious on this one, Karl? Sacherer rated it 5.9, but I always thought it seemed fair to rate it easy 5.10. How did it get to be so hard? (I climbed in EBs.)
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