Here are the 5.10 Standards- Abide

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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2006 - 12:59pm PT
i got street cred, like I've done an el cap route.
lol, hasn't happened. Unless you count Pine Line. lol!! still got a lot to learn.
but thx anyway Beev.

i thot that article was so thought provoking it deserved some resurrection. Russ, that hippie lettuce must have been AMAZING!

Karl, killer! thx!

10+ years later, Peruvian Flake sounds 9ish sitting in the comfort of my office.


Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jul 21, 2006 - 01:00pm PT
"scuffy b wrote"

"Karl, do you really think Lunatic Fringe is harder than Midterm?"

Midterm is more physical, but Lunatic is definately harder. I think they are both iconic testpieces for their grade.

I'd solo Midterm long before I'd touch Lunatic. I think on TR I managed to climb all of Midterm into the chimney without touching the crack even. But then I TRed Lunatic Blindfolded. Even so, they are both still hard for me, I just like playing these games.

as for Middle Cathedral. Freeing the bolt ladder is now 10d in my mind. Hard 10c minimum. I don't know what changed. 5.9 isn't the hardest grade in the world anymore, but I like that kind of slab climbing and it feels like a tough pitch to me and I have the beta (stay low on the traverse) I do the 50 crowded variation these days anyway, better climbing and only 10a.

Here's the bloodpumping Yosemite Crack progression

La Cosita Right, then
Moby Dick Center and Reeds Direct, then
Sacherer Cracker and Outer Limits
then Meat Grinder and Lunatic Fringe
then Waverly Wafer, Five and Dime, and Catchy Catchy corner

Just tawkin smack

Peace

Karl
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jul 21, 2006 - 01:06pm PT
We should work up some lists of "considered light for the grade" and "Sandbag" A lot of the ratings have changed, up and down.

Peace

Karl
goatboy smellz

climber
shakedown street
Jul 21, 2006 - 01:12pm PT
5.10 takes me to my happy space.

edited,
notice the boobies in the blanket.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jul 21, 2006 - 01:12pm PT
Who does sh#t like climb midterm w/o using the crack, and climbing Lunatic blindfolded?

It's disgusting that you have enough time to climb to do these party tricks!
landcruiserbob

Trad climber
the ville, colorado
Jul 21, 2006 - 01:15pm PT
WTF, Most of them felt like 5.9+ & the rest felt like 5.11-.

A great climbing friend of mine once said before he died of brain cancer at 29"what's that, 5.8 + - ???rg
scuffy b

climber
Chalet Neva-Care
Jul 21, 2006 - 01:50pm PT
One of these has always puzzled me: A Mother's Lament.
It has always been touted as difficult, not just runout and dangerous and requiring steel nerves.
Always. Hard. 10c. One of the Major Test Pieces on the Apron.
10c.
What's up with this?
Steve
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Jul 21, 2006 - 02:01pm PT
5.9 should be eradicated from the valley. It's such a disconcerting lie. I certainly wouldn't go by what Roper said was 5.9 in '76. That means its at least 5.10.
scuffy b

climber
Chalet Neva-Care
Jul 21, 2006 - 02:07pm PT
Unless it's 5.9 squeeze, then it's like 5.11b.
Roger Breedlove

Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Jul 21, 2006 - 02:17pm PT
You guys are whacked.

On the other hand, if we live long enough, we will have been 5.17b climbers. He, he.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 21, 2006 - 03:32pm PT
I dunno Karl,
I juss dunno.

Have any "disinterested observers" seen you really do any uh that stuff?

Bwa.
Yours,
Tarbousier.
briand

Trad climber
bay area
Jul 21, 2006 - 06:15pm PT
Agree mostly with Karl's list although have not done all the routes listed esp. the OWs like Twilight Zone(anyone?).
I think you guys mean Leanie Meanie and it's absolutely 5.11. Last pitch of New Dimensions is easier and that seems pretty standard for 5.11.
Always get a chuckle when people get on the "classic 5.9s" in the Valley like Reeds Direct for the first time and are flaberghasted by the difficulty.
For the sandbag list, Tideline anyone(in TM)?

Papa Bear
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 21, 2006 - 06:30pm PT
leannie is ruff.
11B fer a bit methinks.

tideline, what rated 10D?
i dunnit' it's lite.
creem puff i tell's ya.
(ok, 11A)

the zone?
hard teh tell, i followed it and swilly bill lead it, but pushed a fatty the whole way.
i got a groin pull on it, reaching out with the right leg.
scuffed up my favrit t-shirt too.

just get mike waugh or lechlinski into this tho and look out,
heads up.
if it ain't 10D in their book (when it's published at 5.11), it's 5.8.

people out here in boulder are always cryin' about "Eldo 5.9" bein' ruff.
panty waists.

D'Oh!

Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jul 21, 2006 - 08:02pm PT
I love these iconic climbs and have done some of them dozens of times, so when I get to TR them sometimes, I see what kind of fun I can milk out of them.

Maxine's goes one handed without too much fuss.

Serenity/Sons is a perfect climb for blindfolded following or a full moon in Summer.

Moby Dick is a good blinkfold climb but don't hit your head on the roof on top.

You'd be surprised how much of Crescent Arch can be done without touching the crack at all. the whole 3 pitch at least.

Life is good. I'm on a scholarship from the universe.

None of the the above means I'm a good climber though. I'm old, fat, weak and haven't improved in decades. You can take liberties with old friends though.

Peace

karl



briand

Trad climber
bay area
Jul 22, 2006 - 12:04am PT
I intended to say Lord Caffiene just to the left of Tideline.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 22, 2006 - 12:37am PT
That one does stand out in my mind as a bit tougher, although I can't remember it specifically.

Now-a-days I couldn't tackle that stuff with four sets of aiders and a hand grenade.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2006 - 12:58am PT
good grief, a climbing thread, about Yos!!!!!


I am ashamed.



Allz I know is that Waverly Wafer felt WAY harder than Catchy Corner and FRICKING light years harder than Catchy. Like if you said Catchy was 10b, I'd be "ok, yeah probably." g'naw mean?

Catchy Corner I've followed with out falls.
But on Waverly, "dude, oh sh#t, oh sh#t, oh shit" I'm going, whoa, slippin, fooooooooooottttttttttt, ..." And I fell... On follow. ahahahahaha panty waste for sure on TR.

Waverly must have a secret getting out of the pod.



Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jul 22, 2006 - 01:10am PT
Yup, face out towards the valley coming out of the pod if memory serves me.

The trick is not getting pumped in the lieback above. The burn kinda sneaks up on you.

Peace

Karl
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2006 - 01:21am PT
face out!!!???
huh?







oh, okay, maybe I get it, so getting above the pod, that's what I was meaning.

when winter rolls around, if anyone needs a partner for canyon routes, and someone to follow them, just give me a shout.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jul 22, 2006 - 03:24pm PT
Face out? are we still talking about Waverly Wafer?
Messages 21 - 40 of total 103 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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