Dreamcatcher, Canada's hardest receives 3rd ascent.

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 44 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 9, 2012 - 12:08am PT
In Squamish news this past weekend local hardman- Ben Harnden has completed the 3rd ascent of Canada's hardest route. Dreamcatcher 14d, bolted by Sonnie Trotter & Chris Sharma it was first climbed by Sharma after a few visits. It went unrepeated for years despite many attempts by some of the worlds most famous climbers including the likes of Honnold & Pringle just to name drop a few. Probably one of the more Aesthetic granite sport routes around & reported to feel hard for the grade, it was finally repeated 2 years ago by local hero Sean McColll after much work. I'm sure that not many here have heard of Ben but he is one of the nicest, most humble climbers anywhere without a trace of ego or attitude & likely one of Canada's strongest on any type of rock or style of climbing. He has done trad first ascents up to 13d & boulders V ridiculous. Way to go Ben!! Congrats on all your hard work it's great to see it pay off for such a nice dude. Hopefully someone gives this guy a box of gear or something!!

I got a few pics of him working the route this summer I'll post later.
MH2

climber
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:12am PT
Ben is real, humble or not.

Sean had a good season, too.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:15am PT
pix pix pix please
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:29am PT
^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Hurry, the snow monkeys are restless!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Oct 9, 2012 - 01:36am PT
Hey Tami I bet there are none! Ben don't care bout all dat... I hope there are though!

edit just re-read the op.. duh.. post em up Ryan!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Oct 9, 2012 - 02:39am PT
Bump for pix
The Call Of K2 Lou

climber
Squamish
Oct 9, 2012 - 04:56am PT
Way to go, Ben! Would that I could climb like that.
hagerty

Social climber
A Sandy Area South of a Salty Lake
Oct 9, 2012 - 10:34am PT
For those who may not have seen it, here's a 6+ min vid of Chris Sharma on Dreamcatcher:

TeaCozy

Trad climber
Squamish
Oct 9, 2012 - 03:37pm PT
Mr. Ben in action - http://www.flickr.com/photos/teacozy/8071436440/
humble and sending. Kind enough to let me snap a few shots, Congratulation bud!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Oct 9, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
Thanks for that teacozy!

Did you know that you can post it here directly by grabbing the bbcode link from the share tab on Flickr?
matisse

climber
Oct 9, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
TeaCosy your photos are gorgeous.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
Yeah Teacozy! I think I was there that day, it was so greasy & he was still 1 hanging it. I'm sure with these temps he hiked it! Your photos are awesome, should start a Squamish bouldering thread on here.

Edit- I'm not even gonna post my overexposed iPhone video screen shots.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 10, 2012 - 12:12am PT
TeaCosy your photos are gorgeous.

Yes they are.
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Oct 10, 2012 - 12:16am PT
such a beautiful line!
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Oct 10, 2012 - 12:20am PT
wow, great picture too, teacozy!
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Oct 10, 2012 - 12:43am PT
Preplaced is still hard to digest (Hater Nation).
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 10, 2012 - 12:46am PT
So this climb is the old "Rurp Riot" ? Rad !!!!!!

What excellent pix 'teacosy'you have on your flickr site. What is your real name or do you not want to post it ?

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 11, 2012 - 11:59am PT
FWIW Dreamcatcher is not exactly Rurp Riot. It starts up the bolt ladder of Kloset Klimb (two bolts of 12d slab climbing) before taking a (never part of an aid line) series of sloping handrails out right across the wall to join in with the upper part of Rurp Riot, joining in at the end of the leftward dyke traverse on Rurp Riot. Only about 1/4 of the climb (the finish) is shared with Rurp Riot, 1/4 with Kloset Klimb and the middle crux is not part of either aid line.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 11, 2012 - 12:13pm PT
I'd estimate that half or more of "Dreamcatcher" was part of the original line of Rurp Riot.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 11, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
I dunno Anders, I aided Rurp Riot back in the 90s and I remember it pretty well. The point where Dreamcatcher joins in is near the end of both routes. Certainly way more than halfway. I could see it being the last third but I think it's less than that.
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