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| Messages 1 - 39 of total 39 in this topic |
RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 9, 2012 - 12:08am PT
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In Squamish news this past weekend local hardman- Ben Harnden has completed the 3rd ascent of Canada's hardest route. Dreamcatcher 14d, bolted by Sonnie Trotter & Chris Sharma it was first climbed by Sharma after a few visits. It went unrepeated for years despite many attempts by some of the worlds most famous climbers including the likes of Honnold & Pringle just to name drop a few. Probably one of the more Aesthetic granite sport routes around & reported to feel hard for the grade, it was finally repeated 2 years ago by local hero Sean McColll after much work. I'm sure that not many here have heard of Ben but he is one of the nicest, most humble climbers anywhere without a trace of ego or attitude & likely one of Canada's strongest on any type of rock or style of climbing. He has done trad first ascents up to 13d & boulders V ridiculous. Way to go Ben!! Congrats on all your hard work it's great to see it pay off for such a nice dude. Hopefully someone gives this guy a box of gear or something!!
I got a few pics of him working the route this summer I'll post later.
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MH2
climber
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Ben is real, humble or not.
Sean had a good season, too.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Hurry, the snow monkeys are restless!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Hey Tami I bet there are none! Ben don't care bout all dat... I hope there are though!
edit just re-read the op.. duh.. post em up Ryan!
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hagerty
Social climber
A Sandy Area South of a Salty Lake
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For those who may not have seen it, here's a 6+ min vid of Chris Sharma on Dreamcatcher:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Thanks for that teacozy!
Did you know that you can post it here directly by grabbing the bbcode link from the share tab on Flickr?
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matisse
climber
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TeaCosy your photos are gorgeous.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
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Yeah Teacozy! I think I was there that day, it was so greasy & he was still 1 hanging it. I'm sure with these temps he hiked it! Your photos are awesome, should start a Squamish bouldering thread on here.
Edit- I'm not even gonna post my overexposed iPhone video screen shots.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 10, 2012 - 12:12am PT
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TeaCosy your photos are gorgeous.
Yes they are.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Oct 10, 2012 - 12:16am PT
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such a beautiful line!
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Oct 10, 2012 - 12:20am PT
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wow, great picture too, teacozy!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Oct 10, 2012 - 12:43am PT
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Preplaced is still hard to digest (Hater Nation).
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 11, 2012 - 11:59am PT
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FWIW Dreamcatcher is not exactly Rurp Riot. It starts up the bolt ladder of Kloset Klimb (two bolts of 12d slab climbing) before taking a (never part of an aid line) series of sloping handrails out right across the wall to join in with the upper part of Rurp Riot, joining in at the end of the leftward dyke traverse on Rurp Riot. Only about 1/4 of the climb (the finish) is shared with Rurp Riot, 1/4 with Kloset Klimb and the middle crux is not part of either aid line.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 11, 2012 - 12:13pm PT
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I'd estimate that half or more of "Dreamcatcher" was part of the original line of Rurp Riot.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 11, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
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I dunno Anders, I aided Rurp Riot back in the 90s and I remember it pretty well. The point where Dreamcatcher joins in is near the end of both routes. Certainly way more than halfway. I could see it being the last third but I think it's less than that.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Oct 11, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
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The question, of course, was the sketchy pro that would be what you'd be using
The original Rurp Riot was the scene of one of the early Squamish accidents resulting in moderately serious injury (no climbing for a year). One of the rurps ripped out, and of course, the rest zippered, resulting in a ground fall.
Great respect due to all those who have freed Dreamcatcher, regardless of how much of R.R. it involves.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 11, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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By the time I climbed Rurp Riot it was so pinned out you didn't need any RURPs. It was suggested that it could be renamed to Baby Angle Bash. I know the opening crack has seen some free attempts (it even has its own anchor now, separate from Dreamcatcher to the right along the dyke) but I don't think anyone is particularly close to freeing it?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Oct 11, 2012 - 03:00pm PT
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... but I don't think anyone is particularly close to freeing it? Don't look at me...
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Oct 31, 2012 - 03:31pm PT
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nice video and a really smooth ascent. The start is interesting with two extra moves that Chris didn't make, but that made the transition to the hand ramp much less dynamic.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2012 - 03:45pm PT
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Yea, Ben said he found a little hold up & left on the slab that let him do it Squamish style.
Edit- not my video dirtcloud
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Oct 31, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
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Awesome send, clean and good style. TFPU
As mentioned before, great pics on your Flickr page.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Chapel Hill, NC
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Oct 31, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
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Love to see him get on and flash Raliegh Collins's A-Hills .12a blank clean face testpiece or Henny's new totally blank clean face .13+ project next to Chief's line in Pine Creek
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 31, 2012 - 04:58pm PT
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Love to see him get on and flash Raliegh Collins's A-Hills .12a blank clean face testpiece or Henny's new totally blank clean face .13+ project next to Chief's line in Pine Creek
^^^^^^
lmao
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Oct 31, 2012 - 04:58pm PT
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There is a small crack that would take one piece of pro. Sonnie trotter and chris sharma decided to bolt that section, as quoted from sonnie's blog:
... The next day we went back out with a hammer drill and 10 bolts. We debated for a second about leaving it as a mixed climb, but we quickly realized that clipping 8 bolts and then placing one cam was a stupid idea so we slammed in the final bolt and called it done.
Read more here
http://sonnietrotter.com/2008/10/21/full-swing/
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2012 - 05:08pm PT
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That would have been a funny conversation between Sonnie with his traditional outlook & Sharma probably goin uhhhhh i think we should uhhh. haha!
If u saw the line up close u would get it why it's fully bolted.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Oct 31, 2012 - 05:23pm PT
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Awesome line.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Oct 31, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
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If it had enough pro to go on gear I bet that butters would have sent it that way!!! Small gear doesn't seem to phase him much.....
Ben on 69. One of the hardest traditionally protected lines at Squamish.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 31, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
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Stout! Was a great video, the dude is a TECHNICIAN. Really cool to see Granite masters ply their trade.
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Oct 31, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
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Looks kinda steep.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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So in this video you can see where Rurp Riot joins in. About a minute after the camera switches vantages, and pretty much one bolt before he gets the two-handed pocket in the crack. Three bolts from the end of the route.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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gnarly....i'm gunna go climb 5.10 now...
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Butters fits a wood stove and a girlfriend in the back of his station wagon. One word to describe Ben Harden- Inspirational.
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Tamarack
Sport climber
Eureka
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Second post+
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