Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 8, 2012 - 09:08pm PT
In Squamish news this past weekend local hardman- Ben Harnden has completed the 3rd ascent of Canada's hardest route. Dreamcatcher 14d, bolted by Sonnie Trotter & Chris Sharma it was first climbed by Sharma after a few visits. It went unrepeated for years despite many attempts by some of the worlds most famous climbers including the likes of Honnold & Pringle just to name drop a few. Probably one of the more Aesthetic granite sport routes around & reported to feel hard for the grade, it was finally repeated 2 years ago by local hero Sean McColll after much work. I'm sure that not many here have heard of Ben but he is one of the nicest, most humble climbers anywhere without a trace of ego or attitude & likely one of Canada's strongest on any type of rock or style of climbing. He has done trad first ascents up to 13d & boulders V ridiculous. Way to go Ben!! Congrats on all your hard work it's great to see it pay off for such a nice dude. Hopefully someone gives this guy a box of gear or something!!
I got a few pics of him working the route this summer I'll post later.
Yeah Teacozy! I think I was there that day, it was so greasy & he was still 1 hanging it. I'm sure with these temps he hiked it! Your photos are awesome, should start a Squamish bouldering thread on here.
Edit- I'm not even gonna post my overexposed iPhone video screen shots.
FWIW Dreamcatcher is not exactly Rurp Riot. It starts up the bolt ladder of Kloset Klimb (two bolts of 12d slab climbing) before taking a (never part of an aid line) series of sloping handrails out right across the wall to join in with the upper part of Rurp Riot, joining in at the end of the leftward dyke traverse on Rurp Riot. Only about 1/4 of the climb (the finish) is shared with Rurp Riot, 1/4 with Kloset Klimb and the middle crux is not part of either aid line.
I dunno Anders, I aided Rurp Riot back in the 90s and I remember it pretty well. The point where Dreamcatcher joins in is near the end of both routes. Certainly way more than halfway. I could see it being the last third but I think it's less than that.
Rad either way. RR was bongloads o' fun bitd when it was pouring - which was so often :-) . I remember some of the guys looking at it questioning whether or not it could be freeclimbed. The question, of course, was the sketchy pro that would be what you'd be using ( unless bolts were placed and nobody suggested that! ) and the sharp falls that would prolly result in a ghnarrrly deck-out.
The question, of course, was the sketchy pro that would be what you'd be using
The original Rurp Riot was the scene of one of the early Squamish accidents resulting in moderately serious injury (no climbing for a year). One of the rurps ripped out, and of course, the rest zippered, resulting in a ground fall.
Great respect due to all those who have freed Dreamcatcher, regardless of how much of R.R. it involves.
By the time I climbed Rurp Riot it was so pinned out you didn't need any RURPs. It was suggested that it could be renamed to Baby Angle Bash. I know the opening crack has seen some free attempts (it even has its own anchor now, separate from Dreamcatcher to the right along the dyke) but I don't think anyone is particularly close to freeing it?
nice video and a really smooth ascent. The start is interesting with two extra moves that Chris didn't make, but that made the transition to the hand ramp much less dynamic.
Love to see him get on and flash Raliegh Collins's A-Hills .12a blank clean face testpiece or Henny's new totally blank clean face .13+ project next to Chief's line in Pine Creek
Love to see him get on and flash Raliegh Collins's A-Hills .12a blank clean face testpiece or Henny's new totally blank clean face .13+ project next to Chief's line in Pine Creek
There is a small crack that would take one piece of pro. Sonnie trotter and chris sharma decided to bolt that section, as quoted from sonnie's blog:
... The next day we went back out with a hammer drill and 10 bolts. We debated for a second about leaving it as a mixed climb, but we quickly realized that clipping 8 bolts and then placing one cam was a stupid idea so we slammed in the final bolt and called it done.
So in this video you can see where Rurp Riot joins in. About a minute after the camera switches vantages, and pretty much one bolt before he gets the two-handed pocket in the crack. Three bolts from the end of the route.
Let us know!