Dreamcatcher, Canada's hardest receives 3rd ascent.

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 43 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 11, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
Rad either way. RR was bongloads o' fun bitd when it was pouring - which was so often :-) . I remember some of the guys looking at it questioning whether or not it could be freeclimbed. The question, of course, was the sketchy pro that would be what you'd be using ( unless bolts were placed and nobody suggested that! ) and the sharp falls that would prolly result in a ghnarrrly deck-out.

Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Oct 11, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
The question, of course, was the sketchy pro that would be what you'd be using

The original Rurp Riot was the scene of one of the early Squamish accidents resulting in moderately serious injury (no climbing for a year). One of the rurps ripped out, and of course, the rest zippered, resulting in a ground fall.

Great respect due to all those who have freed Dreamcatcher, regardless of how much of R.R. it involves.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 11, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
By the time I climbed Rurp Riot it was so pinned out you didn't need any RURPs. It was suggested that it could be renamed to Baby Angle Bash. I know the opening crack has seen some free attempts (it even has its own anchor now, separate from Dreamcatcher to the right along the dyke) but I don't think anyone is particularly close to freeing it?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 11, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
but I don't think anyone is particularly close to freeing it?



Gauntlet. Dropped.
:-)
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Oct 11, 2012 - 03:00pm PT
... but I don't think anyone is particularly close to freeing it?
Don't look at me...
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
Ok kiddies, here's some viewing enjoyment!








https://vimeo.com/52395576
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Oct 31, 2012 - 03:31pm PT
nice video and a really smooth ascent. The start is interesting with two extra moves that Chris didn't make, but that made the transition to the hand ramp much less dynamic.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2012 - 03:45pm PT
Yea, Ben said he found a little hold up & left on the slab that let him do it Squamish style.


Edit- not my video dirtcloud
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
Oct 31, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
Awesome send, clean and good style. TFPU
As mentioned before, great pics on your Flickr page.
Alpamayo

Trad climber
Chapel Hill, NC
Oct 31, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
Love to see him get on and flash Raliegh Collins's A-Hills .12a blank clean face testpiece or Henny's new totally blank clean face .13+ project next to Chief's line in Pine Creek
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 31, 2012 - 04:58pm PT
Love to see him get on and flash Raliegh Collins's A-Hills .12a blank clean face testpiece or Henny's new totally blank clean face .13+ project next to Chief's line in Pine Creek


^^^^^^
lmao
Baggins

Boulder climber
Oct 31, 2012 - 04:58pm PT
There is a small crack that would take one piece of pro. Sonnie trotter and chris sharma decided to bolt that section, as quoted from sonnie's blog:

... The next day we went back out with a hammer drill and 10 bolts. We debated for a second about leaving it as a mixed climb, but we quickly realized that clipping 8 bolts and then placing one cam was a stupid idea so we slammed in the final bolt and called it done.

Read more here
http://sonnietrotter.com/2008/10/21/full-swing/
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2012 - 05:08pm PT
That would have been a funny conversation between Sonnie with his traditional outlook & Sharma probably goin uhhhhh i think we should uhhh. haha!

If u saw the line up close u would get it why it's fully bolted.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 31, 2012 - 05:23pm PT
Awesome line.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
If it had enough pro to go on gear I bet that butters would have sent it that way!!! Small gear doesn't seem to phase him much.....

Ben on 69. One of the hardest traditionally protected lines at Squamish.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
Stout! Was a great video, the dude is a TECHNICIAN. Really cool to see Granite masters ply their trade.
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Oct 31, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
Looks kinda steep.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 1, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
So in this video you can see where Rurp Riot joins in. About a minute after the camera switches vantages, and pretty much one bolt before he gets the two-handed pocket in the crack. Three bolts from the end of the route.
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Nov 1, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
gnarly....i'm gunna go climb 5.10 now...
James

climber
My twin brother's laundry room
Nov 2, 2012 - 12:51am PT
Butters fits a wood stove and a girlfriend in the back of his station wagon. One word to describe Ben Harden- Inspirational.
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