Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Oct 11, 2012 - 09:50am PT
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Rad either way. RR was bongloads o' fun bitd when it was pouring - which was so often :-) . I remember some of the guys looking at it questioning whether or not it could be freeclimbed. The question, of course, was the sketchy pro that would be what you'd be using ( unless bolts were placed and nobody suggested that! ) and the sharp falls that would prolly result in a ghnarrrly deck-out.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Oct 11, 2012 - 11:19am PT
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The question, of course, was the sketchy pro that would be what you'd be using
The original Rurp Riot was the scene of one of the early Squamish accidents resulting in moderately serious injury (no climbing for a year). One of the rurps ripped out, and of course, the rest zippered, resulting in a ground fall.
Great respect due to all those who have freed Dreamcatcher, regardless of how much of R.R. it involves.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 11, 2012 - 11:48am PT
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By the time I climbed Rurp Riot it was so pinned out you didn't need any RURPs. It was suggested that it could be renamed to Baby Angle Bash. I know the opening crack has seen some free attempts (it even has its own anchor now, separate from Dreamcatcher to the right along the dyke) but I don't think anyone is particularly close to freeing it?
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Oct 11, 2012 - 11:49am PT
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but I don't think anyone is particularly close to freeing it?
Gauntlet. Dropped.
:-)
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Oct 11, 2012 - 12:00pm PT
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... but I don't think anyone is particularly close to freeing it? Don't look at me...
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Oct 31, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
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nice video and a really smooth ascent. The start is interesting with two extra moves that Chris didn't make, but that made the transition to the hand ramp much less dynamic.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
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Yea, Ben said he found a little hold up & left on the slab that let him do it Squamish style.
Edit- not my video dirtcloud
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Oct 31, 2012 - 01:37pm PT
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Awesome send, clean and good style. TFPU
As mentioned before, great pics on your Flickr page.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Chapel Hill, NC
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Oct 31, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
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Love to see him get on and flash Raliegh Collins's A-Hills .12a blank clean face testpiece or Henny's new totally blank clean face .13+ project next to Chief's line in Pine Creek
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toadgas
Trad climber
los angeles
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Oct 31, 2012 - 01:48pm PT
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-
from the vantage of my armchair...
looks like a bunch of bolts next to a perfectly good crack
harumph!
.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 31, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
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Love to see him get on and flash Raliegh Collins's A-Hills .12a blank clean face testpiece or Henny's new totally blank clean face .13+ project next to Chief's line in Pine Creek
^^^^^^
lmao
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Oct 31, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
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There is a small crack that would take one piece of pro. Sonnie trotter and chris sharma decided to bolt that section, as quoted from sonnie's blog:
... The next day we went back out with a hammer drill and 10 bolts. We debated for a second about leaving it as a mixed climb, but we quickly realized that clipping 8 bolts and then placing one cam was a stupid idea so we slammed in the final bolt and called it done.
Read more here
http://sonnietrotter.com/2008/10/21/full-swing/
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
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That would have been a funny conversation between Sonnie with his traditional outlook & Sharma probably goin uhhhhh i think we should uhhh. haha!
If u saw the line up close u would get it why it's fully bolted.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Oct 31, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
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Awesome line.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Oct 31, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
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If it had enough pro to go on gear I bet that butters would have sent it that way!!! Small gear doesn't seem to phase him much.....
Ben on 69. One of the hardest traditionally protected lines at Squamish.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 31, 2012 - 03:52pm PT
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Stout! Was a great video, the dude is a TECHNICIAN. Really cool to see Granite masters ply their trade.
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Oct 31, 2012 - 06:59pm PT
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Looks kinda steep.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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So in this video you can see where Rurp Riot joins in. About a minute after the camera switches vantages, and pretty much one bolt before he gets the two-handed pocket in the crack. Three bolts from the end of the route.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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gnarly....i'm gunna go climb 5.10 now...
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