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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 9, 2012 - 12:08am PT
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In Squamish news this past weekend local hardman- Ben Harnden has completed the 3rd ascent of Canada's hardest route. Dreamcatcher 14d, bolted by Sonnie Trotter & Chris Sharma it was first climbed by Sharma after a few visits. It went unrepeated for years despite many attempts by some of the worlds most famous climbers including the likes of Honnold & Pringle just to name drop a few. Probably one of the more Aesthetic granite sport routes around & reported to feel hard for the grade, it was finally repeated 2 years ago by local hero Sean McColll after much work. I'm sure that not many here have heard of Ben but he is one of the nicest, most humble climbers anywhere without a trace of ego or attitude & likely one of Canada's strongest on any type of rock or style of climbing. He has done trad first ascents up to 13d & boulders V ridiculous. Way to go Ben!! Congrats on all your hard work it's great to see it pay off for such a nice dude. Hopefully someone gives this guy a box of gear or something!!
I got a few pics of him working the route this summer I'll post later.
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MH2
climber
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Ben is real, humble or not.
Sean had a good season, too.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Hurry, the snow monkeys are restless!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Hey Tami I bet there are none! Ben don't care bout all dat... I hope there are though!
edit just re-read the op.. duh.. post em up Ryan!
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hagerty
Social climber
A Sandy Area South of a Salty Lake
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For those who may not have seen it, here's a 6+ min vid of Chris Sharma on Dreamcatcher:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Thanks for that teacozy!
Did you know that you can post it here directly by grabbing the bbcode link from the share tab on Flickr?
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matisse
climber
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TeaCosy your photos are gorgeous.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
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Yeah Teacozy! I think I was there that day, it was so greasy & he was still 1 hanging it. I'm sure with these temps he hiked it! Your photos are awesome, should start a Squamish bouldering thread on here.
Edit- I'm not even gonna post my overexposed iPhone video screen shots.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 10, 2012 - 12:12am PT
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TeaCosy your photos are gorgeous.
Yes they are.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Oct 10, 2012 - 12:16am PT
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such a beautiful line!
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Oct 10, 2012 - 12:20am PT
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wow, great picture too, teacozy!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Oct 10, 2012 - 12:43am PT
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Preplaced is still hard to digest (Hater Nation).
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 11, 2012 - 11:59am PT
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FWIW Dreamcatcher is not exactly Rurp Riot. It starts up the bolt ladder of Kloset Klimb (two bolts of 12d slab climbing) before taking a (never part of an aid line) series of sloping handrails out right across the wall to join in with the upper part of Rurp Riot, joining in at the end of the leftward dyke traverse on Rurp Riot. Only about 1/4 of the climb (the finish) is shared with Rurp Riot, 1/4 with Kloset Klimb and the middle crux is not part of either aid line.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 11, 2012 - 12:13pm PT
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I'd estimate that half or more of "Dreamcatcher" was part of the original line of Rurp Riot.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 11, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
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I dunno Anders, I aided Rurp Riot back in the 90s and I remember it pretty well. The point where Dreamcatcher joins in is near the end of both routes. Certainly way more than halfway. I could see it being the last third but I think it's less than that.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Oct 11, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
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The question, of course, was the sketchy pro that would be what you'd be using
The original Rurp Riot was the scene of one of the early Squamish accidents resulting in moderately serious injury (no climbing for a year). One of the rurps ripped out, and of course, the rest zippered, resulting in a ground fall.
Great respect due to all those who have freed Dreamcatcher, regardless of how much of R.R. it involves.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 11, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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By the time I climbed Rurp Riot it was so pinned out you didn't need any RURPs. It was suggested that it could be renamed to Baby Angle Bash. I know the opening crack has seen some free attempts (it even has its own anchor now, separate from Dreamcatcher to the right along the dyke) but I don't think anyone is particularly close to freeing it?
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